Riverboat Gambler
Williams, 1990You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Ericpinballfan.
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Yes, The ramp should lower to the playfield and metal flap lays on field. Try checking the nut that holds the arm, it can loosen and bind, causing the ramp to not go all the way down. Also, that metal ramp arm is one of the lube points for this game, white grease or such at base closest to the coil, not the nut upper playfield end. Drop target mechs also get lube.
Love this club, I'm in. Had mine about a year. Many mods, I will snap more pics and post here.
Quoted from indypinhead:I've never has to lube a lift ramp or drop targets on any of my pins.
They've been working fine for years.
Quoted from toastbot:Thanks, I'll take a closer look at it when I get home.
I saw this last night and wanted to double check facts. I knew I wasn't crazy. Page 40 of the RBG manual. There is a lot of good info on page 40. If you don't have a manual let me know, and will get you a copy of that page. You can also download manual for free pdf on a couple web sites.
Now another good point. It doesn't mention ramp. However, Williams has sloppy manuals. When I work on my games i always buy hard copy manual. Page 34 on Fire! manual. "lubrication is needed to insure proper operation, also applies the axel points of L and R ramp lifters." Same design on RBG.
I also started checking my other manuals. It's in every one under maintence. Addams, Twilight zone, Gilligans, Fish Tales.
I quote " Regular maintence and lubrication is essential to a game's continuing contribution to the operator's earnings"
The most common lube point is the ball eject arm on every pinball machine.
Quoted from Blackbeard:Riverboat's manual is listed in PDF on the IPMD website, but I don't think it's the full version. Do you have a better link?
Here couple others.
http://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/PDF%20Pinball%20Manuals%20and%20Schematics/
http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals/manuals_pinball.php
Internet Pinball Database is the best overall site for manuals.
My hard copy riverboat re-print came from planetary pinball and first 5 pages are updates and addendums.
Quoted from Blackbeard:No. It's written on the pf near the apron.
You'd see it.
I will look when I get home. Thanks
Quoted from Budwin:Just got mine together last weekend too.
I am still working to track down a backglass.
If anyone knows where to find one, let me know.
Do you have anything, broken glass?
Back glass repro might have it on file.
Quoted from jmountjoy111:http://bgresto.com
This is the company he is speaking of that reproduces back glasses.
Sorry, I work a lot and stop by pinside every other day or so. I would try giving them a quick email. Small chance they may have it on file. If not...the conundrum... you find one of us here in club that need a new one too,then just get 2 made. You need a master (something) for them to reproduce. Unless of course you get lucky and it's on file.
For the record on my machine it is a Translite plastic sheet, that is all white on the backside, the wholes for wheel and scores is clear translight in those areas, meaning one solid sheet.
Keep us updated. I have another idea and a phone call I can do this weekend.
Although mine is nice,it is still worn in a couple areas. I would easilly upgrade if these translights where made again by PPS or Spare Parts Austrailia Guy for under $200, $150 much better.
By the way, so sad of RBG, Glad you have it up and running again.
Quoted from Budwin:Just got mine together last weekend too.
I am still working to track down a backglass.
If anyone knows where to find one, let me know.
Quoted from Grangeomatic:I've got a nice Riverboat Gambler...diamondplate, LEDs, nice backglass... It's working great, except just sometimes, the wheel gets a little...off. It'll say RED, when it is clearly Black. Whenever I run the wheel test, it seems to work fine, but just sometimes it gets shifted. Works right probably about 85% of the time. Does anyone else have this problem?
I'm thinking about q-tipping the wheel optos for grins.
Did you try the really long "burn in cycle" for the game yet? Sometimes it excersises and aligns. During the wheel section in burn in, it went through every color and position twice, reading it off as it went on screen 2 I beleive. So you knew the wheel was matching the results. Another thought is someone applied a new sticker to wheel and missed it by 1/4 inch, making it wrong at least 20% of the time. Once the game ends, it goes through it's attract mode, it will end on green at 12 oclock and 6 oclock. Something to always look for so you know it's doing good, ie motor or shaft.
Pick a color! .....how often do we pick green?. Actually passed a couple nights ago because I had over 3000 in chips and it had been red 4 times in a row.
Joe's great topper from Lasserific. These are from a while ago. But wanted to share this awesome topper, and bump a great game thread.
I've done many speaker upgrades. Not hard work. But, I have not done any system 11's.
I don't feel the sound track and audio warrants it for this game.
However, new speakers sound nice if your cones are cracked and old.
Quoted from ChrisS:I remember when I hit Joe up to design this topper. Helped with the R&D to figure out how and where to connect power. RBG is my first pin and I wanted to make it pop. I think it turned out great. Still a machine I love and won't be leaving the collection anytime soon.
Love mine...maybe my 5th pin, I forget. Not going anywhere anytime soon.
I've now made a stained wooden diverter for the roulette ramp. I need to get it installed and replace the black plastic one.
Use a small vacume and start the gentle scraping. Clean an polish with novus 2, then apply new decal. In front of cards I used a Mylar strip over them about 1/4 inch below and above the length of CARD. Also added protector to the plastic above targets.
Quoted from Tropicalcats:advice on getting the old off and the new on?
Also,now's a good time to add Titan red bands and replace the target decals too.
Anf....if you do take mechanism out....it's good soldering practice, nice big globs on that coil, easy to heat up, pull wire, some screws and it's out. Also replace the coil sleeve. You won't ever have to do it again.
EBay and Marcos have those card decals,don't think pinball life does. Look or call them, you never know.
I've always wanted to replace those red backs with an actual playing card decal. Think it would look neat instead of red plain backs. But, the red looks good and blends in.
Don't forget new balls and shooter tip.
Welcome to pinball maintenance and never ending list of upgrades and parts.
Quoted from Tropicalcats:What's a coil sleeve?
It's the plastic sleeve inside the coil the plunger rides in, or slides back and forth in. Only way to most always replace is when your disassembled after desoldering.
Quoted from Tropicalcats:Here's my questions.
This is the kit I need for my RiverBoat Gambler. http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=980
I can't believe no one didn't catch this. Your flippers are week because your coils are backwards. The solder end goes towards the link and plunger. Cool stop is by it self at rear.
Quoted from 0geist0:Coils will work in either direction, doesn't matter which way that they face.
Yes ,the coils will work, doesn't mean that's Right. Actually it does matter. Maybe you've gotten lucky all these years,but lugs are always opposite the coil stop. Just confirmed with Vid. Please check out Vids guide to rebuilding flippers. I also checked manual before chiming in. Picture included. Page 54 and 55 of Riverboat Gambler manual.
Quoted from 0geist0:A magnetic field is the same up, down
Thank you. In this case I recommend what is printed in the manual.
Anyone have an extra "black" lockdown bar button?
Also love to re stencil buttons, wonder if anyone has a pdf of them, maybe get some decals made?
Quoted from mrossman5:Could anyone take a picture of the adjustments section of the manual?
http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1966
At bottom of page is the manual.
Quoted from ngreenup:Can some one scan the roulette wheel in the backbox? Mine has a crappy sticker reprinted on a home computer long ago. I want to make a nice one.
I have a spare decal for roulette wheel, PM if interested. This one is from Marcos, probably 4 years ago at this point.
Quoted from mrossman5:Also, is there any difference from L-2 and L-3 Revisions?
L-3 was final revision. I swapped to it after a year or so and noticed no difference.
Quoted from accidental:The mind games when playing roulette can be crazy sometimes! I had a game where I reached the roulette jackpot four times and bombed each time. Each time I bet black, and each time I bombed I thought "If I bet red next time it'll be black, so I have to stick with black!". Sure enough, red/green each time. Never got the jackpot :S
I spelled Casino twice, though. So it was still a fun game.
That my friend is why this game is so awesome!
Quoted from jibmums:Just joined the club with a nice example that plays great and just needs a few parts and a cleanup. I found one very strange thing the first time I raised the playfield, several pages of the New York Times dated April 30, 1991 were inserted between the speaker and the grille. The date is right around the time of manufacture, maybe someone was having fun on the assembly line? Anyone else's RG have this?
[quoted image]
Interesting, someone couldn't find the volume knob?
Quoted from Pinmagicman:I bought my RBG last summer and moved it across the state. When setting it back up, I remember removing the backglass to bolt the head to the body. I must have locked the backglass lock too and now can’t get it open. The key fits in the lock but won’t turn. I tried spraying air in it and jiggling the key, but no go. The lock has a small metal plate under it with two small slotted screws holding it in. It would be easy enough to remove but I worry about metal parts from whatever lock bar is inside falling and scratching the back of the backglass. Any ideas?
[quoted image]
Well, the good.news is that there is 2 slotted screws there. I would try taking those out. See if you can wiggle plate and remove, try with key installed. Second, sure you have the right key? Third, you can drill out and have someone hold a vacuum for you. Use a carbide bit and go very slow.
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:Absolutely stoked to get these in the mail today. Like finding a unicorn!
Nos Ramp and Lockdown bar buttons![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Awesome, how did you find that?
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:I bought some plastics from someone on Facebook, and I mentioned that I was interested in the Riverboat Gambler promo plastic he had in another lot (I didn't care about the others in that lot, so I passed on that). He mentioned that he had some other Riverboat Gambler NOS parts at his shop. Made a deal and I am beyond happy!
Chris
Great find. You never know, never hurts to ask. What else you got?
Quoted from Netsepp:Hello,
got my riverboat gambler but without the lockdownbar i am searching for all this buttons (or a replacement).
It is not possible to get all buttons in the shops. have anyone ordered similar buttons in china ?
thx mike
No offence to brother #Silverunicorn.
I have a spare whole lockdown bar if you need one. Its the shipping to Austria thats tricky and expensive.
Quoted from 72Devilz:I changed up the lighting on the Roulette ramp since the LEDs weren’t getting the light through the numbers as I wanted so I cut some blister packing to bridge the gap over the shooter lane and was able to hot glue the LEDs right under the desired areas. Number 14 and 16 were a little tough due to the ball diverter but it’s not even noticeable.[quoted image][quoted image]
Much better, didnt want to nick pick on version 1. The whole led upgrade you did looks fantastic.
Lockdown Bar in decent shape.
You can PM me direct here on pinside and not wait for Ebay Auction.
Thanks.
Old Ebay ad. New Pinside ad up.
Small note for above posts.
The pass button rarely gets played during game play. If not selected for 35-50 games, at power up it will give you an error code.
It's a system 11 thing.
My Fire does it all the time but for the coin shuts, because I never put a coin in my Fire.
I flip coin mech, error code gone.
Same with pass button. Once you go into RB diagnostic and select it, code will go away.
Quoted from Golgotha:My Riverboat plays awesome. The only thing that stumps me is that during game play all sounds work perfectly. When game is in attract mode just sitting. The light show works but there is no music. The Adjustment 31 Attract mode sounds is turned on, however no sounds are made until you coin up. Any help? I am adding an amazing topper. I will post pictures when complete (hopefully tonight!)
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
First of all that topper is Awesome!
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:Ours did that too. No attract mode sounds even though it was set to do so. My Bad Cats is the same way
Chris
I believe the attract mod is at the end of a game.
Play a full game. Now if you wait after the match for about 60 seconds the game will start to light up how to fullfill casino.
At the end of this cycle the roulette wheel will go to green.
That's it.
Now, I can swear that if you let the game sit for a very long time, say 60 minutes, it will do it again.
I have the most up to date roms.
Quoted from pghpinfan:Anyone have a source for the roulette plastic?
Well yes. There is a chap here on pinside that is selling the Cyclone wheel (same wheel different sticker). So go to pinside shops and email him, search Cyclone. Maybe he will sell it a little cheaper without sticker.
EDIT- WAS thinking the backbox wheel.
Which plastic? I may have one.
Quoted from archimandrite:The right hand GI circuit on my game is out. I can trace the wires from the lower playfield to the upper playfield, but I lose them there. I also see them on the power wiring diagram on p. 98 of the manual (5 violet, 1 white-violet) but I can't match anything I see on the diagram to the board in my machine. Can anyone point me to a likely point of failure?
Thanks.
Bottom left of power driver board. You have manual?
Quoted from mikey99:Question- on my RG, it's almost impossible to go all the way up the ramp to roulette from the left flipper. Is that normal for everyone else or is there a way to adjust something to make it possible?
Not normal.
I would suggest new coil sleeves for the flippers if you haven't done that yet.
Quoted from JodyG:I am in the process of acquiring a full set of Riverboat Gambler ramps that happened to become available to me. I have had an above average number of requests for this one over the years, and I am considering actually doing this project now if demand allows it.
The big red ramp is a pretty large undertaking, but I think I can probably pull it off. I am not totally sure on making them red though...the best I can do is spray paint the underside, or sell them as clear pieces and let the end user decide to paint them or keep them clear. Originally, they were probably pre-painted pieces of plastic which were painted with a printing process somehow before forming. The biggest problem with spray painting is getting them evenly painted underneath- which will show up if there are any lights underneath them. I am not very familiar with the game, so maybe someone in this thread would be able to answer that part. No lights under the ramp make this a better probability.
Is there demand for the two side ramps? These are much easier to reproduce, but I also see some NOS ones floating around out there still. NOS ones are going to be much more brittle than new though, as any clear plastic that old will be no matter how they were stored or taken care of.
Ideally, I would like to see 10 pieces of the back ramp committed to before I commit to doing the job...its going to be a big mold. It seems like a low number, but I know a few distributors I deal with will take a few as well on top of that. The big ramp will most likely be in the $225 to $250 range with new flaps installed.
Chime in here or shoot me a PM if this project interests you.
Thanks!
As always Jodi, count me in if you do a run of these. Love my BTTF ramp!
The U-turn to the roulette wheel is a fail point and holes develop there. Maybe a metal flap or protector on that area. I can send pics later if you need them.
Lots of Riverboat Gambler Stuff for sale.
Making ads today, posting here first.
Will donate to pinside.
Full cabinet decal set.
Left ramp,
Used plastic set,
Chips light board,
All 4 lockdown buttons,
Random metal lot-grill-relay,
Full plastic set (Nos, oem original).
Listings in my Shop.
Edit- red ramp and roulette ramp sold.
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Anaheim, CA