Rick and Morty (Blood Sucker Edition)
Spooky Pinball, 2020
Rick and Morty (Standard)
Spooky Pinball, 2020You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider thenotrashcougar.
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Quoted from aeonblack:I'll be keeping an eye on this. It could be really good, but my only concern would be the music. Is Scott doing music for it, or is it all show/theme music with some Shwifty thrown in? That could get old real quick.
I am doing a lot of the music, sound fx and lightshows.
--Scott
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:Can Scott live up to the hype? CAN YOU SCOTT???
Since no LEDs were costed out.... yes. 
Quoted from metallik:Hey, he's got Bowen to help shoulder the burden!
Don't forget about Eric and David Van Es!
Quoted from SpookyCharlie:Get back to work!!! No leaks today on my watch.
I will leak stuff for Fiero parts.
The right orbit can feed the garage and also a low shot off the upper flipper feeds the garage. The portal entrance is in there!
The BSE edition is just cosmetic, but the pictures of the purple do not do it justice. It looks way better in real life. Everything else is exactly the same, which the team and I would have no other way.
This is very important.
--Scott
Quoted from SpookyLuke:The purple really looks alot better in person. It has tons of metallic shine to it and really blends with the cabinet art. Even our team did not like it when they saw pictures but got to the shop to see it in person and did a full 180 they loved it. The BS is purely cosmetic and faster build time. The wording was just inconveniently placed in the email.
Yeah, I was not going to say that.... but yes, I was not really that impressed with the pictures of the purple at first. Then I saw it in real life and was in love and insisted I get that armor. Take that for what it is worth though. 
Quoted from rai:How does it shoot more like Houdini or Iron Man?
Neither. This layout is really different.
I will talk about this more in detail on some podcasts, but I designed the game to have a mix of fun and unique elements that I personally like. There are some modern style elements, some retro, and some that might be new. The goal was to basically make a game that appealed to a majority of player types and skill levels. There are easy shots, tough shots, and everywhere in between.
Also, when I originally put the pop in place of the left sling, before flipping the game, I gave it a 10% chance of making it into the final layout. I powered it all up and immediately changed my outlook to 90%. The reason I chose 90% was because I was unsure what other players would think, but I was absolutely in love with it. I had a bunch of people play it and every single one raved about how awesome the pop was. So it turned from 90% to 100%. BTW, the pop can make shots up the playfield for you.
--Scott
Quoted from aeonblack:Okay, so I have a question that doesn't seem like it's been resolved yet. On the under pf image, there is a flipper sized coil at the middle back of the playfield. The actual mech looks like it's sitting underneath the right side of the house. What is this controlling? We have the Flooble Crank which lines up with it, but Charlie said there's a captive ball back there, so it's probably not for that. It does not appear to be related to the center scoop. It looks like the right inner orbit leads to it?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Diverter to direct the right orbit to the garage or loop it around at the upper flipper from across the playfield.
--Scott
Quoted from The_Casual:What are you most excited about in R&M Scott Sanesi?
I am most excited about going to the DMV and filing for my name change!
Quoted from jahbarron:Also clear vinyl tends to suck for whatever reason
The clear sucks!
I have noticed this too. Maybe because it is softer or something without the pigment in it?
Quoted from monkfe:Yeah the first thing you could start with is that cheesy ship, I could see that with a clear windshield with rick and morty at the controls...? Not sure how the spring motion incorporates into the game play, but maybe mounted off the house?
Did you notice that when the ship lights up, the silhouettes of Rick and Morty show up? I thought that was kinda neat.
In all honesty, I blew the budget out of the water here. It may not look like it from the surface, but this is a packed machine. For instance, there are 16 opto pairs in this game and I had to cut that back a bit to get it to 16. I even threw in the magna save as a sacrificial BOM item, thinking it would just be ok to remove it later if I needed to cut cost, but it ended up being so fun that we had to leave it in there. There was actually nothing noticeable cut from the game and I truly owe that to Charlie letting me get away with it here. The comments about lack of toys on the top of the playfield is not a concern for me as the modding community is so strong, they will come up with some awesome stuff for it. Not everyone likes a ton of stuff on the top of the playfield. We did get the portal gun, the house, the ship with all of it's controllable lights, the flooble crank, and the death crystals into the game. This, to me, looks great as is, but I cannot wait to see how you guys mod the crap out of these games.
And thank you all for the kind words. I have poured my heart into this semi-wacky design over the past 2 years and am really happy with how it turned out. I was really just trying some neat ideas I had for a playfield that was a bit different than the standard. BTW, the pop is absolutely my favorite part of the game. Second place is the new lock design, but not by much.
--Scott
Quoted from rai:Scott are you also working on the rules?
Yes, I am also helping with the rules.
Quoted from delt31:can't agree with you more holding back on more 3d figurines and other mods that I personally think aren't necessary. Let the mod community sell those and folks can junk it up as much as they want. I think what you included is sufficient. Good choice.
I used way too much money elsewhere on the game mechanics. I am still getting yelled at by the team for it, but it's worth it.
Quoted from flynnibus:Did it start as R&M, or did that come after the initial layout concepts?
I knew it was Rick and Morty from the beginning. But I designed the new lock beforehand.
Just an FYI, the art was done by a CN artist that does their Rick and Morty stuff.
I think it turned out fantastic!
--Scott
There is no magnet on the left side. That plate is in there to help guide the ball smoothly into the inlane or if bouncing from side to side, will slow the ball down. I was originally going to put a small U shaped wireform in there but this looked better. There are 2 "settings" that can be configured in this left inlane by using a rubber or not.
1: No mini post rubber: very fast entry to the left inlane and fast delivery to left flipper
2: 3/8 OD mini post rubber (pictured in video): slowed down entry and delivery to left flipper
You could also be super brutal and take out the mini post completely. This would be a fast entry and would widen the crap out of the left outlane. Whatever the option, this little angled plate does serve a purpose. You can see in the video how it slows down the ball to deliver it to the flipper. I am torn whether or not I will remove the mini post rubber on my personal game.
--Scott
Quoted from jonesjb:How does the antigravity (magnasave) device work? Is it....
A. Once charged, you can push it to activate the magnasave, where it turn on and holds the ball for a fixed period of time (like 4 seconds)?
B. You charge it up like a battery, and stays on when you hold the button in as long as there is charge while it drains? If you press it for half a second it pulses using just one bar of the charge, if you hold in for 3 seconds, it holds the ball and uses most of the charge.
C. Other
The Anti-gravity Device (magnasave) works in a really cool old school way on this game. You charge the anti-gravity device using the captive ball (Flooble Crank Post). If you need to use the magnet to save a ball from the outlane, you can tap or hold the secondary button on the right side of the cabinet. The magnet will activate for as long as you hold it and as long as you have charge left. It is 100% time to charge based. You can conserve the charge by tapping, but if you get in a bad situation, you can press and hold and attempt to gain control and drop it down the inlane. This is my personal favorite way that magnasaves are implemented and I have not seen it done like this in a while. There is no exposed core, so pressing and holding is not a guarantee that you will save the ball. I usually just tap it away from the outlane and some of the time, it will flip back up and over the sling back into play.
Sorry for the lengthy responses.
--Scott
Quoted from PunkPin:Is it possible to squeeze in and hit the inner orbit from the lower right flipper? thenotrashcougar
You can backhand the right side lock from the right flipper no problem. You can also backhand the left lock from the left flipper. The new lock is perfectly symmetrical to the flippers. I hope that is what you were asking.
--Scott
Edit: Ohh, if you meant hit the inner loop that is on the left upper side of the playfield, no, you cannot hit that with the right flipper. The upper flipper is the only one that can hit that shot.
The right flipper can hit the 3 standup targets, the left ramp, the noob noob taget, the left lock, the scoop, and the right lock.
Quoted from SkillShot:Scott, TNA has some amazing music, can you provide any details on this game? Is there a mix of custom music plus songs from the show?
Glad you asked! I made a crap ton of exciting music for the game and remixed some of the show music as well. I also did the sound effects with the exception of the sounds from the show. If you liked what I did on TNA and ACNC, you shoudl be happy.
--Scott
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Hi Scott,
RM pin looks awesome! I can't wait to get mine! #653.
can you tell us how many balls lock for a MB in that new ball lock mech you designed???
The lock can lock up to 3. We are currently using it in really cool ways as a lock, a movable captive ball, and a fast-ass u-turn. I am extremely happy with how it turned out.
Quoted from JustEverett:thenotrashcougar will know for sure, but I'd guess it will be like the first Danesi lock with locks being stealable. It might be a good opportunity for a virtual lock option in the settings.
Locks are stealable 100%. I would have it no other way.
Quoted from HighProtein:I'd like to see how glo-balls look and play in it.
[quoted image][quoted image]
http://modmypin.com/
These would probably not work right with the magnasave as they have less metal in them. I put some of these in my TNA and it played super fast and looked good for a little but, then they started getting damaged.
--Scott
Quoted from TigerLaw:This is a great point. We need to ask Scott for a recommendation on mirrors vs blades.
I am not sure yet!!! I have not seen the mirrors in the game.
I vote RM since R&M does not work well on the site. RAM is just weird looking. haha
EDIT: RM is also better for searching than RAM.
Quoted from BorgDog:Scott has spoken, RM it shall ever be! well at least from me, I don't know what half the damn things are anyway. In my mind JP is joker poker, but evidently not for most of the rest of you.
Holy shit, I am no dictator... Fuck it, I am going to call it HHP now. HAHA!
--Scott
Quoted from Zablon:You really want to cause chaos don't you!
I survive on pinball player's tears. Yes. haha
Quoted from jonesjb:Can you share any tidbits on the your 2.0 lock... Something to tide us over for the holiday year end?
Sure!
The locking mechanism is not that complicated. It is a horse shoe loop with 2 drop targets at the openings. There is a center post right int he middle of the horseshoe. There are 2 sets of optos on each side of the mech behind the drop targets and one set of long throw optos in the front of the drop targets and the scoop. The long throw opto set is there to give the software a heads up that there is an incoming ball at high speed. It's actually a super cool assembly that uses all off the shelf parts, which I am a huge fan of. In this configuration, you can load 3 balls into the lock.
The phases of the lock mech can be this:
Open Loop:
Both drop targets down, with no attempt to capture a ball. This will act as a super high speed turn around from both directions.
Ready to capture 1 ball:
When a lock is qualified, the mech will still leave both drop targets down. A ball can be captured by shooting the lock in either direction. This will capture the ball on one side.
1 ball in lock, but number 2 not qualified:
This is a cool situation, both drop targets will be up in this case and will allow you to transfer the ball from one side to another, or use it as a captive ball by putting center post up.
1 Ball in lock, ball 2 lock qualified:
The first locked ball in this case will act as a captive ball and ball 2 can be locked on the opposite side. The drop will be open and ready for the second lock on the opposite side of where ball 1 is captured.
2 balls in lock:
After ball 2 is locked, the balls can act as 2 separate captive balls in 2 separate locks by the up post keeping them separate. Another thing I was thinking about, but is going to make Eric kill me, is that we could allow someone to put a 3rd ball in the lock by hitting one of the locked balls and letting it double stack on the other side with the other ball. Then open up the empty side and ready it for lock 3. This is just an idea at the moment, and not sure if we will use it. This also opens up other cool ways of separating the balls again into a 2 locked scenario.
There are a bunch of possibilities with this thing and we are working hard on making it as fun as possible. Right now, it is very fun to play and has been very reliable. Eric knows his shit. This is just one of the super exciting mechanical aspects of this layout that I love. Well, I hope that was enough for you guys to digest for a while.
--Scott
And, yes, you guys figured out how we are able to keep the drops from falling when hit on TNA and R&M. It is pretty easy actually. There is an opto in front of the drop as far away as I could physically get it that acts as a warning for an incoming ball. Once this opto is triggered it will hold up the drop target by using a pulsed signal (to not overheat the coil) for x amount of seconds, or whatever is needed. This can be used for many things. When capturing a ball on TNA, I left the drops in a held state until the ball settles as to make sure there were minimal lock failures.
--Scott
Quoted from kermit24:It is all about the implementation also. With great RGB power comes great responsibility. Don't make it into a competition on how many skittles you can cram on a playfield. We don't need to worry though because Scott obviously gets it.
You are 100% correct. You need to use it when it counts to have the highest impact. I cannot stress this enough and it was one of the few major things I wanted to prove on TNA along side the fact that you can make an ass kicker game with no ramps.
--Scott
Quoted from Whysnow:Not concerned since you are a known troll and hater. Vast majority of TNA and ACNC appear to be very stoked on the games. Spooky build quality from TNA onward is the best in the business.
Memory leak issue is a code/proc thing and they have beefed up CPU to help deal with that. In my experience, It only happens when you leave your game on for days at a time. Just power off the game once in a while. Problem solved.
Just a clarification on this. The memory leak is not a Multimorphic P3-ROC issue. It is a software issue on the PC. This issue is being worked on for ACNC as we speak (I have seen the new code) and this has been proactively addressed for R&M and will not be an issue there. The reason we put a larger computer in it was to handle the vast amounts of HD video that are going in this thing. We wanted more RAM, more CPU, and a better video processor. The PC that we are using is also made from off the shelf parts, which I am a huge advocate of.
--Scott
Quoted from kermit24:Thank you for the detail Scott! That makes a LOT more sense. Throwing a larger PC at something isn't how you fix a memory leak, so that sounded strange to me. Much appreciated you chiming in on this thread.
No problem. You are correct, throwing a bigger PC at a memory leak is not the way to handle it at all. This is why I wanted to clarify. There are people much smarter than myself handling this, so that makes me happy.
Quoted from gliebig:I'd like to see a close up pic of it. Hope it's strong.
It is made out of thick 304 stainless steel infused with megaseed oil and countersunk into the playfield so it goes nowhere near the clearcoat.
Quoted from jonesjb:Maybe there will be Cliffy's avail just in case.
Not needed. See my post above.
Quoted from Whysnow:does it go all the way through the playfield/ nutted on the bottom?
in other words, if it takes a beating over time, would it be simple to replace?
It does go all the way through and is nutted on both sides. It is a custom machined piece with threads on both parts that protrude through the bottom of the playfield. But in all honesty, the pinball will be destroyed before this post gets beat up.
Adding a glow ball or a rubber on your flooble crank will make it not work as well. Leave your flooble crank unprotected, it will be more fun and it will work as designed.
You could always put a power ball on your flooble crank if you are into that. It shoudl work fine as power balls have a harder outside layer just like natural balls.
Quoted from SmallyBells:What would it take to get a factory installed (add-on cost) silicon band upgrade?
Feasible or too much trouble?
It’s seems like a easy upgrade that no company has done as of yet.
Spooky has used silicone rubbers on their games since TNA.
Quoted from guitarded:Ribbed.
For your pleasure.
Correct!
Hey guys, for the record, I did not remix that flash song. That was a remix by a guy named A-Skills! He rocks.
Quoted from fnord:Knowing me, I'll end up back working at the carpet store.
If you are good.
Thank you all very much for the kind words! Just an FYI, I can confirm the spinner is jamming the ball in this video that was recorded today due to it not being balanced and resting off center. This is not going to be the case for the production games.
--Scott
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