(Topic ID: 254852)

RFM Test Report Errors


By P1nhead

18 days ago



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  • 23 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 days ago by P1nhead
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#1 18 days ago

Please have some patience with me, this is my first pin ever and first thread.

Revenge From Mars, Bally 1999. Bone stock, running 1.1 software. Purchased from the one and only Rob Berk of Chicago Expo fame (very nice gentleman, made me feel comfortable throughout this purchase).

Played the game at Rob Berk's warehouse and all seemed okay. The machine is VERY clean with minor dings on the cabinet. The playfield appears immaculate to me. Computer/mobo/PSU without any accumulated dust and all fans run without issue. No discolored or bulging caps. New rubbers were put on the machine just prior to the Expo (it was there on free play). Upon starting the machine, Rob's right-hand-man told me that any errors show on startup... so I did not bother going into the menus and running the test report. He said "this machine is perfect," and I believed him without question.

Got her home without incident and all tucked into her new spot. I played some games and noticed that some lights were no longer working (skill shot lights for example). So this made me want to go into diagnostics.

Lamp test shows 6 lamps out (open circuit) - cannot be too tough to replace lamps right? I can search online for the operator manual and get the correct bulbs. I've attached a picture of the map for bulbs that are open circuit.

My real issue is "check switch" error with switches 25, 51, 71,12, 74, D14, 77 listed. I've also attached a picture of this. Being a novice, I'd love if someone could provide advice on how I should approach this.

Perhaps driving home in my Ram 3500 at 35mph knocked some things loose?

The other issue I have is my right Martian toy. When activated, he hardly moves compared to the left side... like he has lost the vigor in life. Any thoughts? I never achieved this mode when playing it at the warehouse, so didn't get to test them. I just assumed everything worked because I was told everything worked.

Trying to touch on other points recommended to talk about per the stickied thread... Yes, I have a DMM. Yes, I can solder. I am located in the Youngstown, OH area. Let me know if you need pictures!

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#2 18 days ago

Switch test - hit the switches in error, maybe they haven't been hit recently.

Lamps - either #555 or #44 bulbs.

Martian - check bottom of plunger, should be resting on a rubber grommet, if missing or worn, plunger is too low in coil to get a full whack.

LTG : )

#3 18 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

Switch test - hit the switches in error, maybe they haven't been hit recently.
Lamps - either #555 or #44 bulbs.
Martian - check bottom of plunger, should be resting on a rubber grommet, if missing or worn, plunger is too low in coil to get a full whack.
LTG : )

Wow that was fast! Will do all these and report back. Thank you!!

#4 18 days ago
Quoted from P1nhead:

Please have some patience with me, this is my first pin ever and first thread.
Revenge From Mars, Bally 1999. Bone stock, running 1.1 software. Purchased from the one and only Rob Berk of Chicago Expo fame (very nice gentleman, made me feel comfortable throughout this purchase).
Played the game at Rob Berk's warehouse and all seemed okay. The machine is VERY clean with minor dings on the cabinet. The playfield appears immaculate to me. Computer/mobo/PSU without any accumulated dust and all fans run without issue. No discolored or bulging caps. New rubbers were put on the machine just prior to the Expo (it was there on free play). Upon starting the machine, Rob's right-hand-man told me that any errors show on startup... so I did not bother going into the menus and running the test report. He said "this machine is perfect," and I believed him without question.
Got her home without incident and all tucked into her new spot. I played some games and noticed that some lights were no longer working (skill shot lights for example). So this made me want to go into diagnostics.
Lamp test shows 6 lamps out (open circuit) - cannot be too tough to replace lamps right? I can search online for the operator manual and get the correct bulbs. I've attached a picture of the map for bulbs that are open circuit.
My real issue is "check switch" error with switches 25, 51, 71,12, 74, D14, 77 listed. I've also attached a picture of this. Being a novice, I'd love if someone could provide advice on how I should approach this.
Perhaps driving home in my Ram 3500 at 35mph knocked some things loose?
The other issue I have is my right Martian toy. When activated, he hardly moves compared to the left side... like he has lost the vigor in life. Any thoughts? I never achieved this mode when playing it at the warehouse, so didn't get to test them. I just assumed everything worked because I was told everything worked.
Trying to touch on other points recommended to talk about per the stickied thread... Yes, I have a DMM. Yes, I can solder. I am located in the Youngstown, OH area. Let me know if you need pictures![quoted image][quoted image]

my right martian is suffering the same issue...in my case the coil is faulty and measures a different resistance (I assume some windings are shortcut)
IIRC is gets hotter as well during operation.

#5 18 days ago
Quoted from harig:

my right martian is suffering the same issue...in my case the coil is faulty and measures a different resistance (I assume some windings are shortcut)
IIRC is gets hotter as well during operation.

Thank you for responding. The interesting thing is when I manually activate the Martian from the menu, it appears to move just fine like the left (although they do not rapidly move as in game, just up and down kind of slowly when activated from the service menu).

Most of my switch issues resolved after playing a game and hitting them except for 25 (left loop low), 12 (left ramp exit), 77 (left top lane), and D14 (left flipper eos). These issues persist even if I take the glass off and manually move them or push a ball over them.

When I get the time later I will look in the manual to see what I need.

#6 18 days ago

Left flipper eos fixed... broken solder connection.

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#7 18 days ago

I have attached two images, one of the Left Ramp Exit switch and one of the Right Ramp Exit switch.

I am probably using the wrong terminology but the left exit ramp appears to be missing the bumper arm when compared to the right exit. I looked all over the playfield and underneath, this bumper arm is nowhere to be found. Not that one could even reattach the arm. So this switch needs replaced.

Bummer because the switch itself works... just no bumper arm to activate it.

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#8 18 days ago

There is also an issue with some of the rubber posts as seen in the photos. On the right post where the right ramp is, it spun around with us playing it... well after hitting it a few times after it spun you can see yellow dust flaking off all over the playfield.

As it turns out, all of the yellow colored rubber posts have pretty much vulcanized. If you turn the post 180 degrees, you don't see any crack and it is kind of soft to the touch, with just the normal black pinball dust... spun the opposite direction and you can easily make out cracks in the rubber with the naked eye and it feels as hard as a rock.

I also never took the glass off and inspected it fully. Situated way back on the topside of the glass is a small tear in the film. I could only really notice it with the glass all the way off. How should I go about cleaning this glass now? Just be really careful around that area? Lint free cloth with water only? Kind of tough to get a picture of it but I tried for the sake of posterity.

For any new person buying a pinball machine... watch out when people tell you rubbers have been replaced, or it has been shopped/cleaned/refurbished/whatever term is used. Physically (if you are able) touch every freakin' thing you can get your paws on. Trust, but verify. Also, get everything in writing.

Could anyone point me in the right direction for ordering new rubber for this machine? I'm pretty sure I can just search the part number online for the switch but haven't come across a part number for the rubber.

Thanks again for helping me. I'm assuming finding all these issues after a sale is par for the course in the pinball world, right?

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#9 18 days ago

The left lane switch is functional if I press on it, however, when the ball rolls over it nothing happens. Any suggestions on what to do?

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#10 18 days ago

I've seen switch arms fall off while playing and the ball hits the switch in a bad angle. It could also have fallen off while transporting/hauling but not that likely. I have had several screws and spacers just vanish while working on my pins, that arm probably lieing there somewhere too.

As you have a solder iron simply check the manual for the part number and replace it.

If you don't have a paper manual then check ipdb.org for a digital one.

Also, don't trust the diagnostics, for me it reports lamps broken but they work (probably cant handle leds). Use single switch and single light tests instead.

#11 18 days ago

New switch for the one missing the arm, wire in the new one exactly the same, watch wire colors which lug they go to, and where silver band end of diode goes.

Replace the yellow rubber sleeve, it's shot.

LTG : )

#12 18 days ago

Forgot. Regarding that last switch not registrering. Use single switch test and manipulate the switch with your hand from below playfield, if the switch registers using hands but not a ball then just loosen two screws holding switch, adjust its angle and tighten screws again. Retest with a ball until it registers properly. If you cant get it to trigger by hand its probably broken and need replacement (assuming the wires arent loose).

If you are uncertain of switch condition, remove it from the game and use a multimeter in the continuity mode (should beep when its contact) and mesasure switch while pressing down.

#13 18 days ago
Quoted from LTG:

New switch for the one missing the arm, wire in the new one exactly the same, watch wire colors which lug they go to, and where silver band end of diode goes.
Replace the yellow rubber sleeve, it's shot.
LTG : )

Yup, I am looking on eBay right now at various rubber kits for the machine - I want to see if buying a kit can save some money.

The switch for the left exit ramp is number 5647-12693-21 - game room guys sell it for about $10. Does Pinside (or you personally) have a preferred distributor to pick up parts from? Thank you.

#14 18 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Forgot. Regarding that last switch not registrering. Use single switch test and manipulate the switch with your hand from below playfield, if the switch registers using hands but not a ball then just loosen two screws holding switch, adjust its angle and tighten screws again. Retest with a ball until it registers properly. If you cant get it to trigger by hand its probably broken and need replacement (assuming the wires arent loose).
If you are uncertain of switch condition, remove it from the game and use a multimeter in the continuity mode (should beep when its contact) and mesasure switch while pressing down.

I've been doing everything with the playfield in place... Unless one has really long arms, I guess I will have to lift up the playfield and rest it in the front of the machine to get to that switch. Is that correct? "Safe" to do this because the coin door is open which will disable all high voltage components right?

#16 16 days ago

Figured I would post an update, keep this as a catch-all thread of technical things and stuff that I come across with this machine. Hopefully it rmay help a new owner like me.

Ended up ordering everything from Marco Specialties as the switches were OOS at the links @LTG provided. Amazon has me spoiled with same day shipping, I really need to stop shopping with them, they are killing businesses and I am enabling them.

I keep having issues with the right Martian - the rubber appears the same as on the left side. I recently moved so I cannot find my DMM to check the coils. I guess it could be just strong enough to do a proper stroke during the single-fire tests in the menu but cannot handle the rapid movement during gameplay. I did mess with the spring (compressing it, seems to have just ever so much less springiness compared to the right) and it oddly seemed to improve things, slightly.

A few rollover switches keep getting stuck and stop registering, even though they are functional, I ordered replacements. I figure I will change them out when I get tired of taking off the glass to fiddle with them (about every 30 games or so).

Replaced about 12 lamps in total so far. Found what appears to be corrosion, normal I guess?

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#17 16 days ago
Quoted from P1nhead:

the rubber appears the same as on the left side.

Be sure it isn't sticky and holding the plunger down.

LTG : )

#18 16 days ago

dont use ebay for parts, there are plenty of trustworthy suppliers with better quality and prices that will stand behind their product such as https://www.pinballlife.com/

#19 13 days ago

So my parts came in from Marco... I have to reach out to customer service as the rubber kits is incomplete. I recieved a schematic referencing locations on my machine that require a different part than what was supplied.

For example, 1" rubber ring is labeled G and this location is actually a 5/16" ring. Part F is listed as 3/4" ring (I received the correct number) but it should actually be a 5/16" ring. I received 5 yellow sleeves - the schematics provided tell me to place one where the thick yellow sleeve that is 3/16" ID should go. They completely left out part B, the black rubber sleeve. Part C is missing from the package. Part D 3/32" grommets are missing. I think I am also missing (not listed on the schematic) a few other 5/16" rings for some of the plastic posts. I also received an extra flipper rubber (black), when red was ordered. What was particularly amusing was the inclusion of a white shooter tip for a freaking manual plunger.

Anyone else have experience with PRW kits sold by Marco? I am dumbfounded that they would get the schematic wrong, forget to include parts, and include parts that don't even fit this machine.

As for the new rubber in 50% of the machine... holy crap what a difference! Also, the new premium balls seem like they float on the playfield. Between the new rubber and balls, this game is completely different from when we bought it.

I fixed my left ramp exit switch... rather than taking the old cherry switch out and replacing it with a new db3, I took the arm mechanism from the new switch and fit it on the old. It works perfectly.

Here are some photos of my old rubber (which was supposedly "new" rubber) and what I received from Marco/PRW as a kit for this machine.

That "new" (probably from 1999) rubber pisses me off, hard as a rock and bursting with dust every time it was hit. The flipper rubber was bad too - I could stop the pinball dead most of the time with a properly timed flip - I thought I was honing a skill! Changed out the rubber and suddenly the pinball launches trying the same move with the muscle memory/timings I learned over the last week.

What is everyone's experience in buying games? Is it typical to miscommunicate the condition of a machine to newbies? Maybe I should open a different thread to get everyone's opinion and keep this a technical post?

I will end on a positive note... dismantling the right ramp to change the rubbers seemed to have repaired the issue I had with the right Martian. I did have to apply significant torque to remove the screw in the post that holds the bracket for the Martian - I suspect this was the issue. It is incredibly satisfying to have every switch, every solenoid, every lamp, every mechanism operational.

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#20 13 days ago

Please take your post over to the Revenge From Mars forum - you'll find much better assistance...like buying the infamous rubber kit - nearly which all available are vastly incomplete or wrong....and how the switches in RFM are notoriously failure prone and need to be replaced - stuff like that....plus the latest/greatest code!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-hillary-come-here-you-gotta-see-this

#21 12 days ago

Just curious how much did you pay this RFM..

#22 12 days ago

I got in a nice RFM like 3 months ago and had to replace like 12 or more of the cherry micro switches, they used very bad ones in both Pin2000 machines at that time.

#23 12 days ago
Quoted from Giulio:

Just curious how much did you pay this RFM..

3k

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