Just got a RFM and it's acting strange. Anytime a coil pulses I get red lines on the monitor. Plus colors go in and out.
Just curious how to fix this.
(Topic ID: 193411)
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Revenge From Mars
Bally, 1999
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Hopkins, MN
What LTG said.
I reflowed the solder on the input connector on the monitor's motherboard to try and fix mine. Unfortunately while putting it back in the chassis; I stress the neck board ... hear the sickening sound of vacuum being equalized... and was never able to test.
You can check by locating the cable connected to the monitor's main board and wiggling the connector. If you see the color changing; it's a bad solder joint at that connector.
Just to be clear, we are talking about the main board under the PF? I secured the monitor board in the head.
Quoted from hank527:Just to be clear, we are talking about the main board under the PF?
No that would have nothing to do with your monitor issue.
See this part I posted : I'd go over monitor connectors, clean and be sure they are on tight. If you work around the monitor chassis, be sure you discharge the monitor first. Check chassis board and next board for cold solder joints.
LTG : )
Quoted from LTG:Check chassis board and next board for cold solder joints.
I think he means "neck board", not "next board".
Quoted from RoyF:I think he means "neck board", not "next board".
Oops. Yes, neck board on the picture tube. Thank you.
LTG : )
1 week later
Well can someone tell me what I should touch to discharge? Plus do I just remove the four screws on the backyard to pull it off. Someone has wedged paper in between a gap. Really wish I had more experience on RFM . I started to take it apart and all of this stuff fell down. Curious why a switch was jammed in there.
Quoted from LTG:Nothing.
Google how to discharge a picture tube. Follow carefully. Don't kill yourself.
LTG : )
Thanks. Does anyone know why that paper would have been shoved in there?
Quoted from hank527:Does anyone know why that paper would have been shoved in there?
I've been trying to work out which paper you mean, the cover at the back of the neck board (Pic 3)?
And TOTALLY agree with LTG, be very bloody careful any time you are playing around at the back of a CRT monitor, especially around the anode cap (rubber cap with lead coming off it). There is a procedure to discharge a monitor, definitely google it first but if your still not sure then ask! I would also wait at least 12-24 hours after you have last powered on the machine before you go to discharge the monitor, it will still have charge mind you, and can still be lethal.
probably to protect the back of the board from ESD. Guess the factory gypped me, mine doesn't have a piece of paper.
Quoted from hocuslocus:probably to protect the back of the board from ESD. Guess the factory gypped me, mine doesn't have a piece of paper.
Mine has got one but it may depend on which chassis you have too, think these machines were either Wells Gardner or Ducksan
My duckscan has a plastic insulator between the neck board and the metal bracket.
It's probably there to help prevent "shorts" to the metal bracket which is likely grounded.
Insulators near high voltage = good thing.
My insulator has aged horribly... and shrunk so that at least one of the plastic holes doesn't fit anymore.
Quoted from Mancave:Mine has got one but it may depend on which chassis you have too, think these machines were either Wells Gardner or Ducksan
your not talking about the notebook paper, are you?!
guessing there was supposed to be something else there.
but yeah I have a wells, learn something every day.
Quoted from hocuslocus:your not talking about the notebook paper, are you
AHHHH, now i see the paper the OP was talking about 
Well spotted 
no idea how i missed that....and hmmmmmm 
Quoted from Zitt:It's probably there to help prevent "shorts" to the metal bracket which is likely grounded.
Insulators near high voltage = good thing.
Yeah it would be too. I've seen plenty of arcade ones that didn't have the plastic but most of those had the CRT mounted on wood panels with no metal parts anywhere near the neck board.
I had the same problem, but was getting only blurry red and not even enough red like it should be, Rebuilt the chassis still the same way. Did everything I could with the chassis. So decided to install a LCD, Did not think I would like it. But I have to say I do. It puts everything where it should be. Sad part is I have less in all the parts to do the LCD then I put into the monitor itself!
Quoted from tonyhoff1:I had the same problem, but was getting only blurry red and not even enough red like it should be, Rebuilt the chassis still the same way. Did everything I could with the chassis. So decided to install a LCD, Did not think I would like it. But I have to say I do. It puts everything where it should be. Sad part is I have less in all the parts to do the LCD then I put into the monitor itself!
How do you do a LCD? Do you use a converter kit or just run a new Vega cable to the LCD? I am assuming a lot comes out which is never used again.
Quoted from hank527:How do you do a LCD? Do you use a converter kit or just run a new Vega cable to the LCD? I am assuming a lot comes out which is never used again.
I only used my frame from the old monitor, Bought a converter board and card for the computer. The monitor was the most expensive and I got a better deal buying 2. So I have another one here. I will post a couple pics of mine.
Where did you get the converter card? I may go this route. Im guessing a 4:3 monitor and not a 16:9 is needed. I wish someone still had the mounting kits.
If you decide to go LCD; please offer the monitor to someone else.
CRTs are not being made anymore; so every working tube is unobtainum.
Quoted from hank527:Where did you get the converter card?
http://www.lockwhenlit.com/products.htm Scroll down towards the bottom. This is Borygard's website.
LTG : )
Quoted from tonyhoff1:I have a 20inch in mine. 4.3 if interested I can sell you my other lcd
I ordered the kit to have as they may get harder to find in the future. I may be interested in the 20 inch monitor. I need to check around as we may have one at work or somewhere else. I guess you need a 20 inch monitor only.
You've probably already got your heart set on changing to a LCD but just want to mention that it's most likely that the CRT chassis just needs a little work, monitor is most likely still fine (especially if all the colour spectrum is still ok) I was advised by a pinball tech to keep the machine CRT if at all possible. There is a quite a debate about the advantages and disadvantages of CRT and LCD on these machines, it is of course a personal choice at the end of the day though.
I fixed the board and ran a continuity check.
Can someone tell me if the last 2-3 pins far too on the connector in this picture go to ground as I get continuity to the chassis bar and I cannot find out if they should or should not have continuity.
Afraid to turn on till i can confirm.
Quoted from hank527:I fixed the board and ran a continuity check.
Can someone tell me if the last 2-3 pins far too on the connector in this picture go to ground as I get continuity to the chassis bar and I cannot find out if they should or should not have continuity.
Afraid to turn on till i can confirm.
There is a connector in that picture? Looks like your camera needs to put its glasses on and take another picture a little bit more in focus. 
http://www.pinball2000.de/pin2000_monitor.htm
Have a look at this. There aremany informations and also schematics for both types of monitors.
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