(Topic ID: 193411)

RFM monitor losing color and red lines


By hank527

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 36 posts
  • 10 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by Wizboy
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 2 years ago

Just got a RFM and it's acting strange. Anytime a coil pulses I get red lines on the monitor. Plus colors go in and out.

Just curious how to fix this.

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#2 2 years ago

I'd go over monitor connectors, clean and be sure they are on tight. If you work around the monitor chassis, be sure you discharge the monitor first. Check chassis board and next board for cold solder joints.

LTG : )

#3 2 years ago

What LTG said.
I reflowed the solder on the input connector on the monitor's motherboard to try and fix mine. Unfortunately while putting it back in the chassis; I stress the neck board ... hear the sickening sound of vacuum being equalized... and was never able to test.

You can check by locating the cable connected to the monitor's main board and wiggling the connector. If you see the color changing; it's a bad solder joint at that connector.

#4 2 years ago

Just to be clear, we are talking about the main board under the PF? I secured the monitor board in the head.

#5 2 years ago
Quoted from hank527:

Just to be clear, we are talking about the main board under the PF?

No that would have nothing to do with your monitor issue.

See this part I posted : I'd go over monitor connectors, clean and be sure they are on tight. If you work around the monitor chassis, be sure you discharge the monitor first. Check chassis board and next board for cold solder joints.

LTG : )

#6 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Check chassis board and next board for cold solder joints.

I think he means "neck board", not "next board".

#7 2 years ago
Quoted from RoyF:

I think he means "neck board", not "next board".

Oops. Yes, neck board on the picture tube. Thank you.

LTG : )

#8 2 years ago

Okay,

I cleaned everything and it got worse. I am assuming I need to take the 4 screws off the back and remove the board.

I did see this ground wire floating around. Should that be connected to something?

Any help is appreciated.

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1 week later
#9 2 years ago

Well can someone tell me what I should touch to discharge? Plus do I just remove the four screws on the backyard to pull it off. Someone has wedged paper in between a gap. Really wish I had more experience on RFM . I started to take it apart and all of this stuff fell down. Curious why a switch was jammed in there.

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#10 2 years ago
Quoted from hank527:

Well can someone tell me what I should touch to discharge?

Nothing.

Google how to discharge a picture tube. Follow carefully. Don't kill yourself.

LTG : )

#11 2 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Nothing.
Google how to discharge a picture tube. Follow carefully. Don't kill yourself.
LTG : )

Thanks. Does anyone know why that paper would have been shoved in there?

#12 2 years ago
Quoted from hank527:

Does anyone know why that paper would have been shoved in there?

I've been trying to work out which paper you mean, the cover at the back of the neck board (Pic 3)?
And TOTALLY agree with LTG, be very bloody careful any time you are playing around at the back of a CRT monitor, especially around the anode cap (rubber cap with lead coming off it). There is a procedure to discharge a monitor, definitely google it first but if your still not sure then ask! I would also wait at least 12-24 hours after you have last powered on the machine before you go to discharge the monitor, it will still have charge mind you, and can still be lethal.

#13 2 years ago

probably to protect the back of the board from ESD. Guess the factory gypped me, mine doesn't have a piece of paper.

#14 2 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

probably to protect the back of the board from ESD. Guess the factory gypped me, mine doesn't have a piece of paper.

Mine has got one but it may depend on which chassis you have too, think these machines were either Wells Gardner or Ducksan

#15 2 years ago

My duckscan has a plastic insulator between the neck board and the metal bracket.
It's probably there to help prevent "shorts" to the metal bracket which is likely grounded.
Insulators near high voltage = good thing.
My insulator has aged horribly... and shrunk so that at least one of the plastic holes doesn't fit anymore.

#16 2 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Mine has got one but it may depend on which chassis you have too, think these machines were either Wells Gardner or Ducksan

your not talking about the notebook paper, are you?!
guessing there was supposed to be something else there.

but yeah I have a wells, learn something every day.

#17 2 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

your not talking about the notebook paper, are you

AHHHH, now i see the paper the OP was talking about Well spotted no idea how i missed that....and hmmmmmm

#18 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

It's probably there to help prevent "shorts" to the metal bracket which is likely grounded.
Insulators near high voltage = good thing.

Yeah it would be too. I've seen plenty of arcade ones that didn't have the plastic but most of those had the CRT mounted on wood panels with no metal parts anywhere near the neck board.

#19 2 years ago

I had the same problem, but was getting only blurry red and not even enough red like it should be, Rebuilt the chassis still the same way. Did everything I could with the chassis. So decided to install a LCD, Did not think I would like it. But I have to say I do. It puts everything where it should be. Sad part is I have less in all the parts to do the LCD then I put into the monitor itself!

#20 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyhoff1:

I had the same problem, but was getting only blurry red and not even enough red like it should be, Rebuilt the chassis still the same way. Did everything I could with the chassis. So decided to install a LCD, Did not think I would like it. But I have to say I do. It puts everything where it should be. Sad part is I have less in all the parts to do the LCD then I put into the monitor itself!

How do you do a LCD? Do you use a converter kit or just run a new Vega cable to the LCD? I am assuming a lot comes out which is never used again.

#21 2 years ago
Quoted from hank527:

How do you do a LCD? Do you use a converter kit or just run a new Vega cable to the LCD? I am assuming a lot comes out which is never used again.

I only used my frame from the old monitor, Bought a converter board and card for the computer. The monitor was the most expensive and I got a better deal buying 2. So I have another one here. I will post a couple pics of mine.

#22 2 years ago

Here are some pics.

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#23 2 years ago

Where did you get the converter card? I may go this route. Im guessing a 4:3 monitor and not a 16:9 is needed. I wish someone still had the mounting kits.

#24 2 years ago
Quoted from hank527:

Where did you get the converter card?

Check with Borygard who posts here. He sold stuff to convert them at one time. Gets a lot of heat out of the head of that game.

LTG : )

#25 2 years ago

If you decide to go LCD; please offer the monitor to someone else.
CRTs are not being made anymore; so every working tube is unobtainum.

#26 2 years ago
Quoted from hank527:

Where did you get the converter card?

http://www.lockwhenlit.com/products.htm Scroll down towards the bottom. This is Borygard's website.

LTG : )

#27 2 years ago

This is awsome. Anyone have suggestions on monitors?

#28 2 years ago
Quoted from hank527:

This is awsome. Anyone have suggestions on monitors?

Bro I can get you shawns number he did it to his bro

#29 2 years ago
Quoted from musketd:

Bro I can get you shawns number he did it to his bro

I have a 20inch in mine. 4.3 if interested I can sell you my other lcd

#30 2 years ago
Quoted from tonyhoff1:

I have a 20inch in mine. 4.3 if interested I can sell you my other lcd

I ordered the kit to have as they may get harder to find in the future. I may be interested in the 20 inch monitor. I need to check around as we may have one at work or somewhere else. I guess you need a 20 inch monitor only.

#31 2 years ago

Just let me know if so.

#32 2 years ago

You've probably already got your heart set on changing to a LCD but just want to mention that it's most likely that the CRT chassis just needs a little work, monitor is most likely still fine (especially if all the colour spectrum is still ok) I was advised by a pinball tech to keep the machine CRT if at all possible. There is a quite a debate about the advantages and disadvantages of CRT and LCD on these machines, it is of course a personal choice at the end of the day though.

#33 2 years ago

I fixed the board and ran a continuity check.

Can someone tell me if the last 2-3 pins far too on the connector in this picture go to ground as I get continuity to the chassis bar and I cannot find out if they should or should not have continuity.

Afraid to turn on till i can confirm.

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#34 2 years ago
Quoted from hank527:

I fixed the board and ran a continuity check.
Can someone tell me if the last 2-3 pins far too on the connector in this picture go to ground as I get continuity to the chassis bar and I cannot find out if they should or should not have continuity.
Afraid to turn on till i can confirm.

There is a connector in that picture? Looks like your camera needs to put its glasses on and take another picture a little bit more in focus.

#35 2 years ago

Here's a better pic. Cannot find the schematic to tell me if these lines should far left of this connector should be tied to ground.

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#36 2 years ago

http://www.pinball2000.de/pin2000_monitor.htm

Have a look at this. There aremany informations and also schematics for both types of monitors.

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