(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

6 years ago



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4 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #2093 Wells Gardner K700 troubleshooting flow chart Posted by snakesnsparklers (2 years ago)

Post #2187 Links to updating the game code using windows 7 Posted by ForceFlow (2 years ago)

Post #2295 Adding the missing slingshot spotlights Posted by Lhyrgoif (2 years ago)

Post #2312 Version 2.0 custom code announcement Posted by applejuice (2 years ago)


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#871 4 years ago

I'm waiting on a set of OSHPark boards which I designed to be a "plug-in" play implementation of the "video amplifier mod". The idea is it plugs into the front end of the video cable between the cable and the video card instead of "inline" on the main cable.

If there is interest; I'll post here about the success or failure here.

#873 4 years ago

Good to hear. I may make a design change to change the "output" connector from a right angle to a straight PCB mount so one can simply plug it in from the rear of the machine. I looked today and saw that the current design may cause an interference issue. I'll know more when I have it assembled and can test fit it.

#876 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

My monitor looks really good now so how much would this improve the picture?

IDK; tbh. Several people in this thread and other places SWEAR by the mod saying it's a night and day difference.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/amazing-rfm-video-mod

You can see how the current method isn't plug-in-play from the thread above.

I'll do my best to take before and after pictures once I have it ready.
My goal is to have the RFM w/ the amp at TPF'16 in a few weeks; so I'm planning on assembling them this weekend if not earlier. (assuming all the parts arrive by then)

#881 4 years ago

Got the board and some of the parts today. the non-Right angle VGA connector comes tomorrow (ordered last night).
The idea is to be a completely plug-in-play solution; If we have to pull +5V from the PC... then I have an idea on that as well.

I appreciate the "trust"; wait till you see the new products for Stern Star Trek.

3 weeks later
#887 4 years ago

For those who what to know... my initial RFM video amp board was functional - but seemed to oversaturate the video signal. BUT; it seemed to get the +5V directly from the VGA connector; negating a need for external psu.

I need to either do some competitive analysis... or look at the signals again.

#909 4 years ago
Quoted from lurch:

Seriously don't sweat the MB. The caps on this board are the weak point. If you do have problems find someone who does this kind of work and have them replace the caps. I had mine swapped locally for $80 and I was back up and running in a day.

If you get this issue... contact Rob Anthony at LockWhenLit.com .... as I recall he has stated many times he can work on motherboards and prism cards.

4 weeks later
#949 4 years ago

At TPF; I developed a Red color issue... where I found out if I wiggle the cable going to the Duckscan PCB; the gun with come back intermittently. This weekend; I decided to pull the monitor and examine the connector for a bad solder joint. As you may know; you have to pull the monitor out of the backbox... disassemble most of the monitor; just so you can get at that connector.

I reflowed the connector and started reassembling the beast. Got it all back together and while putting the monitor back in the back box; I heard the horrifying sound of gas being let into the CRT tube. Somehow; while trying to wrangle the monitor into the box; I snapped the glass tube at the neck board. I was so disgusted with myself I just want to cry.

I *hope* to have a replacement CRT on the way - but just noticed it's on "backorder"; so may never see it. <Sigh>

#961 4 years ago

May not have a choice regarding LCD. My hope was to keep the machine original; but MCM Electronics put my CRT order on backorder... then outright cancelled it yesterday. There just isn't any stock left of Tubes.

Does anyone have pointers to stock of LCD adapter plates / Info?

My assumption is Pinball Life carried them with the NuCore stock... but I haven't looked to see if they still do.

#976 4 years ago

Good info. For now; I'm going to try and keep the system "stock-ish" with a CRT from GOV. Else; LCD maybe my next step.
I'm not one to shy away from a tube swap if necessary.

#980 4 years ago

Seems to me that an AFM design could easily be adapted for RFM.

2 months later
#1044 4 years ago

Check the switch gap... if still an issue; I'll look for a bad/defective cap and/or diode.

#1049 4 years ago

Wow ... yes... that looks like EARLY alpha code.
I'd serious consider updating to a later version before chasing any bugs.

2 months later
#1179 4 years ago
Quoted from Badamack:

Does anyone have evidence that a video amp could or could not 'burn up' a crt? I've heard some concern about the way they 'overdrive' the monitor...

AMPs don't overdrive the monitor. The issue is RFM doesn't output the right level voltages to the CGA monitor - IE the voltage is too low.
A correctly designed amp would output just the right voltage level to be compliant to the monitor. So it wouldn't cause burn.

a Cap Kit WILL cause you problems if not installed. If your High Voltage or any other cap goes... it'll cause an overvoltage in the monitor which will fry components. Do yourself a favor, if you suspect Caps are an issue. Fix it first.

#1193 4 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Have you tested the caps to see if they are actually bad?...or are you assuming the caps are bad simply because of a weak/faded picture quality. All mine needed was the amp.

On my duck scan; when I pulled for cap kit... there were SEVERAL caps that were bulging ready to go.
So; yeah... if you suspect you are still running original caps... it's time to consult a professional.

4 months later
#1356 3 years ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

4. The pop pin which captures the ball during the cut scenes doesn't drop on it's own, typically needs a flip of a flipper and it drops and releases the ball, is this how it is meant to be? I played one on location and it had the same behaviour.

Yeah... As I recall it allows you to watch the video/cut scenes in peace before the mayhem starts. I think it does that uniformily for almost all the modes with the exception of one or two buggy transistions?

1 week later
#1404 3 years ago

I think I stopped at 1.5... and didn't upgrade to 1.6.
I don't remember why specifically... it may have had something to due with a bug which prevented a network card from working... or an actual bug.

#1410 3 years ago

I would... except mine is headless due to a cracked neck tube.
Good luck to you guys!

#1413 3 years ago
Quoted from awarner:

Flat Panel, Flat Panel, Flat Panel!

I'm suppose to be getting a donor CRT at TPF... I'm *trying* to keep this thing original ... but it's hard to do.
If this donor CRT has bad burn in... or my tube swap become fail... then well; yeah - LCD is the back up plan.

Quoted from ypurchn:

Error message "Lock diverter stuck open" - Wiring looks good. Mechanisms looks good. Can easily actuate by hand under and on top of PF so I don't think anything is binding. Looking at the exploded diagram the only thing that is sticking out to me is a bad coil? Thoughts? Wanted to check before I dropped $25+ on a coil

Did you do a coil test to see if voltage is getting to the coil? I'd be inclined to be a bad coil... or more likely a bad driver transistor.

Quoted from ypurchn:

So I'm leaning towards this one being a switch issue? But curious as to why the switch 15 error is now cleared if that's the case.

I have seen bad switches in my RFM... due to green "gunk" which I wasn't able to determine the cause of. Either solder used on my machine is causing issues... or there the flux used was causing issues. It could be the switch... but I think I'd use the switch diag screen to verify both switches "fire" when the drop target is manually actuated.

5 months later
#1640 3 years ago
Quoted from awarner:

I'm starting my RFM restore / upgrade this weekend. Most of what I'm doing will tick off the purists. I'm removing the computer and replacing it with a PinBox. The monitor is a 4X3 20" flat panel. Translite will be 3-D. Bill Ung Saucer Kit. New side art, cabinet cleaning/repaint, side rails, T-Moulding, Legs, etc.

I've been wanting to put my some of my Translucent PopBumper bodies on my RFM... but I haven't gotten around to it yet due to the monitor issues. Too many projects... too little time. I'm thinking the green body would look awesome.

#1645 3 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Like the sound of those, would match my Galaxian green T-Molding nicely Just clicked on the link, international shipping available?

Yes, I ship internationally - but you could also buy from the Pinball.Center if you wanted to. For you it is probably a "wash" for who would be cheaper to ship.

3 weeks later
#1657 3 years ago

Electrolytic caps go bad all the time from this era.
It's a lot cheaper to order replacements than it is to fool with it.
If you don't have the skills to replace them... send them to some one like Rob Anthony for repair.

#1660 3 years ago

Just because the mobo is old... doesn't mean it's "destine" for the garbage.
It take skill to keep these machines running... don't ruin it by just tossing what you think is a lost cause.
Just saying; I'd rather keep mine running with original/repaired parts than by tossing the system in favor of a Nucore/Pinbox.

#1664 3 years ago

Thats why i said consult a professional if you need a mobo repaired. Rob is more than capable. For me, id cut off the bad cap and use my Pace desolderer. But i have the equipment...

Are you hoarding those mobos... Or offering them?

1 month later
#1719 3 years ago

I really need to get my RFM functional... <sigh>
Honestly; the hold up right now is I can't find the damn monitor's Power connector so I can build a bench plug to enable me to do some testing of the monitor outside the machine/cabinet. (Tube swap; expecting to need convergence at a minimum)
I've ordered like 3 different molex style connectors; and none of them have the right "rounded square" keying. I'm toying with the idea of 3D printing a correct connector.

#1721 3 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Are you talking about the stock monitor? I had a friend with the stock WG monitor in theirs and I made a new connector to interface with the video amp board. Standard molex connector and pins nothing special.

Yes stock; but not the Video signal connector. The Power connector. As in 120VAC.
It appears that the connector is nolonger made - or I can't find the right manufacturer.

1 month later
#1762 3 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

black tape film.

Friction tape? The same stuff used to mount lift channels on Backglasses?

1 month later
#1801 3 years ago

look in the upper left corner of the secondary (solder) side of the board. He burnt a trace off... an fixed it with a wire jump.

#1815 3 years ago

Tonight I fired up my RFM monitor after swapping boards to the non-cracked CRT.
Fired right up. Did a little convergence adjustment and looks pretty good. I'm going to try and reassemble my RFM head tomorrow; but it's forecasted to rain here... so that my limit my ability to move games around to work on the RFM.
We'll see.

#1817 3 years ago

Rain was spotty; so I became an active member of this club again:
P_20180121_170006[1] (resized).jpg
Original CRT swapped out. No LCD here.

2 weeks later
#1855 2 years ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

I would of preferred to stay with CRT, but I couldn't get it to work 100% with pinbox. the picture was always messed up. I even tried the arcade vga video card.

Please don't toss your CRT... if you decide to do so; please contact me and I'll come take it off your hands. ;D

#1865 2 years ago

Glad it went to a home.
For anyone reading this... Never, EVER, toss your CRT unless you know it's has a cracked tube.
These things are no longer being made... eventually, machines will die because no CRTs are left because no one is making tubes anymore.
Someone will take it. Guaranteed.

#1885 2 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I learned that one the hard way too. I said "You've got to be kidding". It must have been easier to build that way. Replaced.them with a discreet wired wedge base socket.

Did the same on my STNG. I even put these:
http://Pinball.Click/B011NBMSTA
under the PF and tied the wedge socket leds to it (Stern Star Trek - did this, so not my original idea). The picture is wrong in the link. It's a 3 position terminal lug.

#1887 2 years ago

Yes, but I got them cheaper at PBL:
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=299

While you are changing them out; you might as well replace the base too (shameless plug):
pinball-mods.com Pop Bumper Body
bumper body

#1890 2 years ago
Quoted from kdunbar:

Are you bringing any to TPF?

Not planning on taking any product for sale at TPF.
TPF is a social thing for me; so, the only thing I do are:
My machines will be outfitted with my mods for people to interact with.

I will; of course, will hand deliver any product purchased to TPF as I've done in the past.

#1894 2 years ago

Define, not booting.
Is the powerswitch on the CPU set properly to allow a boot? I know; simple - but had to ask.
Did you check / follow the green/black/white main's power cable to make sure it is plugged into the IEC connector which plugs into the PSU on the CPU?

#1896 2 years ago

My assumption is that when Rob fixed your computer... it was the entire computer... including the Prism card.
If that is true - then I'd wager something shook loose during shipping back.
Have you tried removing / reseating the cards?

Have you asked Rob for advice?

Something looks off to me; Shouldn't the RED LEDs in the prism card light?

#1904 2 years ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

First is a replacement fan. Can someone post a link where to buy one? OR is you have one for sale.

Which one?
CPU, PSU, or other?

#1909 2 years ago

Robo,
I have a broken neck on my "now backup" CRT for this beast.
I'd love to buy a "known good" CRT from someone so I could tube swap and get the back up working.
Any interest in helping me source a donor tube?

#1917 2 years ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

Star Wars: Episode I thread, or is this pretty much the de facto Pinball 2000 club thread?

I just think no one has created one.
I don't own SWEP1... so have no real interest.

1 week later
#1939 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

Can I run an update without a computer?

I think it requires a null serial cable and an XP computer.
Otherwise; you'll need the update card which Borygard probably has.

1 week later
#1950 2 years ago

Again, please don't trash the CRT if you go the LCD route.
Offer it locally ... or even here on Pinside so we can save the tube for future needs.

#1952 2 years ago

You could send an PM to borygard to see if he works on Pin2K monitors... if so; ship him your monitor for repair.
Would be expensive (to ship); but would be done right if not broken during shipment.
However, I'm remembering he only works on Pin2k CPUs - not the monitors themselves.

Other than that; I can't offer any specific suggestions as I did my chassis swap here to correct for a broken CRT neck. Prior to that; I did my own re-cap and other minor repairs.

#1960 2 years ago
Quoted from tonylo909:

Anyone want it, come by and get it!

Next time I'm in FL I will.

2 months later
#2023 2 years ago
Quoted from TBatti:

battery is by chance?

On the computer motherboard is the only one I know of

#2027 2 years ago
Quoted from TBatti:

I read there is one on the motherboard and one on the prism card. What is the best way to access these??? I don't know how to get at them???
I've never worked on my RFM at all and I'm trying to understand where everything is and how to get at it.

I don't recall if there is one on the Prism Card.
Both are in the computer cabinet in the head above the monitor.
To get to the computer; remove the Backglass. Then the computer can be slid "out" while the back part of the computer case remains in the channel. From there you can remove the computer case's cover and then access the battery(ies).

#2041 2 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Yes, sandwiched between the Prism PCI card and its daughterboard. Word of caution, be extremely gently when prying these cards apart! Seen many with the connectors ripped off.


I have never replaced mine only the coincell on the mobo.
Please tell me the Prism battery isn't NiCAD or Rechargeable... because I really don't want to feel like I have a time bomb waiting for me.

Edit:
"Lithium Battery BR2335 on the PRISM Sandwich Board. Not easy to swap, to only if you must. So far I am not sure, what problems exactly happen, when this battery gets empty. So far I have seen that they have still > 3,3 Volts! " -- http://www.pinball2000.de/troubleshooting.htm#BATTERY_PROBLEMS

so; whew... no time bomb.

#2067 2 years ago

That board is too clean... you had to have washed it or something.
I think I recapped everything myself... but noticed something similar.
I think I recall removing a couple of bulged caps on mine.

Just be careful when putting that board back... the neck of the tube is not a handle... neither is the neck board. yes; I'm speaking form experience.

#2070 2 years ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

he caps were original and none were leaking or bulging. I'm always super careful around those necks! They snap easy! That hiss will make you sick!

yeah.. 77 plays; wow. I'm jelly.
Mine was taken care of for the most part; I don't understand it's complete history; but much of mine's life was spent in a church here in TX.
The only real problem I've had with mine is some of the rear switches have grown some green slime which I think was related to some of the solder flux used during assembly at Williams.

1 week later
#2095 2 years ago

Philly, do you have a CGA source that you can attach to the monitor?
IE so you can eliminate the rfm's Computer as the culprit?

I used Test Pattern Generator to verify my RFM monitor after I did a chassis swap. I know you proably don't need to spend another 89usd... but I figured I'd use mine to debug my Voyager monitor which is in a similar state.

2 months later
#2164 2 years ago

I *finally* got around to replacing my CPU fan... I'm pretty sure it had the oem cpu fan on it... and had already cleaned and oiled the fan 8 or so years ago. It sorely needed to be replaced. I installed a 60mm Noctura fan on the 50mm cpu socket mainly to keep the noise to an absolute minimum. It also has the added benefit of attaching the cpu fan header on the Pin2k motherboard.

I did a quick write up on my blog:
http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/p2kCpuFan

where I've made the DXF file available under the "free" TAPR/NCL license. I've also put the Fan Adapter on Shapeways for those who don't have access to a laser cutter.

60mm Fan Adapter - Test Fit

3 weeks later
#2183 2 years ago

I found the serial cable update to be the easiest. It doesn't really require special hardware... I had a Null serial cable in my cable box.
That said; I understand why PUB cards are considered easier because you don't have to setup a WinXP box.

#2185 2 years ago
Quoted from bobwiley:

Do you know if v 1.8 or 1.9 are available to update via null serial cable?

AFAIK; all Pin2k software can be updated via a null serial cable.
The sticking point most people have is they don't have a WinXP laptop they can carry to the machine. I beleive the tool has issues with Win Vista and later tools. I imagine a WinXP Virtual machine would work as well.

When I tried the ?1.6? update... I had a Dell WinXP laptop with real serial port. I ended going back to the previous update because there was something I didn't like about the new modes. I still have the XP laptop ... and now several VMs because my Laser cutter also requires WinXP 32bit for it's drivers. Ricky's site actually seems to have instructions:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/pin2000/notes/update.html

3 weeks later
#2218 2 years ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Keeping the UV away from my artwork on my games is always a must.

I don't really want to rain on your parade... but White LEDs can actually be UV emitters.
*some* White LEDs work by producing UV light which is then converted to white by Phosphors in the LED... Just like it's done on CFL tubes.
I'm not sure most White LED vendors actually show the UV present in the spectrum; so it's difficult to prove that converting from CFL to WhiteLEDs is better or worse on the art.

Here's an article from a quick Google Search:
http://www.premierltg.com/do-led-lights-produce-uv-led-tanning-beds/

1 month later
#2320 2 years ago
Quoted from Joe_Blasi:

and what is bad about less ram?? it's not like that type is hard to find.

Agreed; however, the POST is quite a bit longer with 8MB.

2 weeks later
#2394 2 years ago
Quoted from BobLangelius:

any chance we could get a real knocker while your in there, doctor?

I like this idea... Like it a lot.

2 months later
1 week later
#2639 1 year ago

applejuice
how far along are you w/ regards to the Shaker Kits / wiring harnesses?
I sent a PM to you on 1/28 (I'll reply again) to put me on the list; but never heard from you.

With V2.1 coming soon... I'd like to start planning.

#2642 1 year ago

Great, I understand about those projects. I have at least 4 in the pipeline myself. That doesn't include the damn IncomeTax I'm still working on. Luckily; that'll be done by tomorrow at midnight.

#2645 1 year ago

yeah... hum... wtf
Double sticky tape; really? might as well have thermal epoxied the heatsink down.

hard to see in that picture - does the heatsink even have both the tab hooks?
Is the socket on the mobo broken? IE does it have both heatsink tabs?

I'd be more than a little worried that there was a reason for the stupid-hack.

1 week later
#2678 1 year ago

Applejuice,
Please contact me via PM. I have a contact which can have these made cheaply.
I'm happy to help out if you'd like.

#2682 1 year ago

I don't think it's been suggested; But, I am *not* trying to take business from Applejuice... my goal is simply to support him in his endeavor as I think the work he's doing for RFM is very awesome. Regardless of what he decides; I'll be buying the knocker loom from him to support his work on the game software. It's well deserved.

I have some experience making wiring harnesses for projects like my Laser mods for Stern Star Trek.. so I'm happy to help him find a source if it helps him avoid crimping these darn things by hand.

1 week later
#2725 1 year ago

The lamp test feature is an opamp design on the hardware of the board on the bottom of the cabinet.
I'd be surprised if applejuice could do anything more than disable it it in software.
Another option might be to duplicate the lamptest grid and allow the owner to disable lamp test for specific lamps that have LEDs. IE for those that don't have 100% LED conversions.

#2726 1 year ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

they really did innovate a ton with pinball 2000... yet somehow... they arrived at...
PVC pipe

What's wrong with PVC? Cheap; easy to source. Easy to replace.

#2734 1 year ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Also, on the lamp test front with LED usage. If anyone wants to pm me for an ee tech discussion on the operation of the lamp RC circuit charge and decay test timing

applejuice Why take it to PM?
I think it should be a group conversations. Why not start a new thread in the appropriate forum here on Pinside?
I'd participate especially if you can post the current timings as you understand them.
Hell; I might even be convinced to pull out my oscilloscope.

2 weeks later
#2821 1 year ago

I agree regard the crap microswitches in RFM.
I've had to replace about 3-4 of the p.o.s… on my game; they seem to be worse in the upper PF. In nearly every case; I can pull them and see some green ooze coming out of them. I'm not sure what that ooze is... but I'm guessing it may be left over flux from the manufacturing line which has "grown" into the actual switch body gunking up the internal mechs.

Last time I ended up buying the modern DB3 microswitches from digikey and moving the rollover wire to the body.

#2837 1 year ago

AppleJuice
Since we are talking about a clock...
Can we get a NTP setting to specify an NTP server so the machine can autosync to the date/time of a server?

2 weeks later
#2918 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonic:

you won't burn a flipper coil....since this isn't a Stern

More importantly... make it an option to enable and leave it disabled by default.

2 weeks later
#2976 1 year ago

shotout to applejuice for an awesome 2.1 update.
I easily upgraded from 1.5 to 2.1 with a homemade null modem cable and my old XP laptop.
No issues.

#2994 1 year ago

Installed my knocker... Repurposed a bally knocker from water damaged bally Star trek:

P_20190705_171053 (resized).jpg
#2996 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonic:

You have it striking the metal housing? I was going to ask where folks were installing theirs.....

Yes of the AC box... I was going to make a metal strike plate and mount it somewhere else; but applejuice's harness was to short and I didn't plan ahead with my own wiring by making mine longer.

If your going to install an existing knocker with a diode like mine; remember the banded side of the diode goes to brown (+50V) and the unbanded goes to blue (switched grounded). It'd be smart to remove the diode; but I didn't. I may live to regret it.

#2999 1 year ago

I think pin2k has diodes built into the board... But someone will need to confirm is the schematics

#3001 1 year ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

It looks as if the knocker and shaker are on Drive Bank C (DRV 18 and DRV 19)... those do not have diodes on them.

The knocker assembly suggested by applejuice does appear to have the diode on it... so this is more evidence you may need the diode.

#3013 1 year ago

I'm about 90% sure my tilt is on the lhs (player's prospective) as well.
In fact; I'm positive now that I think about it. Mine was not "behind" the coil power disable switch but on the same side as the ac box.

1 week later
#3061 1 year ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

I wonder which fuse can disable the door button ??

I'm guessing because the +50V is out; the door thinks it's closed; disabling the buttons via software.

3 weeks later
#3106 1 year ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

. Next thing I'm thinking is maybe the capacitors on the motherboard?

That's my first guess.
On my Mobo; the caps started bulging. Unless you have the equipment to replace these easily (a good vacuum desolderer); you'll want to send this out to borygard for repair if they are indeed bulging.
Otherwise; IIRC - the original PSU was a Deer AT powersupply. I'm pretty sure I replaced mine as soon as I found it.

#3111 1 year ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

ricochet and zitt do you know the specs on the capacitors to replace?

I do not. Just look at the Caps in your board and replace if they are bulging or have evidence of liquid escaping.

Quoted from johnstewart:

Also, what the heck is "c" here? I thought capacitors had a voltage (v) and a capacitance (uf); what the heck is c?

And, I think I can replace it with a higher voltage capable one, I'm good. In other words, a 10v capacitor can replace a 6.3v one (but not vice-versa, obviously)?

Can you recommend a place to buy? I"m comfortable enough with desoldering/replacing myself.

This is a multi-layer Motherboard - maybe 6 or more layers. Simple desoldering you've been use-to on pinball boards won't cut the mustard on this. IE it's hard to desolder all those layers without damaging inner layers... or applying enough heat to melt the solder on the massive power planes these caps are on.
Seriously; unless you've worked on 4+ layer boards with some high end thru hole desoldering equipment - just don't. Consult a professional.

If you're still serious about ruining your board yourself; capacitance (uF) can generally be replaced with slightly larger value caps without issue. IE only have 1200uf but the original is 1000uf.
Voltage rating of the cap (VDC) is simular. You should try to match voltages in general. This measurement is "working voltage". Running a 50V electro in place of a 6.3VDC may lead to issues, IIRC. Never use a lower rated voltage cap in place of a higher. Sparks will fly.
Temperature ratings (degrees C) are ratings for the temperature profile of a given device. I usually go with higher temperature for motherboard caps. IE I will replace 80C caps with 105C as long as they are rated better. IF you are really curious: Wikipediahas a good description of lifetime effects and failure modes. See Arrhenius rule.

#3114 1 year ago

Get some coin reject art on that coin buttons - Stat:
http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?p=88

CoinRejectSTRFM-300x211 (resized).jpg
#3119 1 year ago

If you do decide to go LCD; please don't trash the CRT. Donate it to someone here who can keep it for parts/repair. CRTs are no longer being made; and replacement tubes are hard to find. It'd be a sad day if the CRT ended up in China/Philippines ewaste craters.

#3128 1 year ago
Quoted from dashv:

Love it! Now I want one for my RFM.

Dash... You're becoming addicted to Pinside. Does your wife need to stage an intervention?
But seriously; welcome to the rollercoaster of Pinside.
Have you installed applejuice 's RFM update yet?

#3140 1 year ago
Quoted from dashv:

I swear to God you guys are gonna bankrupt me.

Then don't go look at the mods I did for my STNG.

#3144 1 year ago
Quoted from dashv:

I’m getting the metal decals. But I may not use all of them. The other stuff I’m not sure about.

IT's ok... let you're pocket book recover. Don't piss off the wife.

#3156 1 year ago
Quoted from dashv:

Folks, I need to clean my playfield and replace the rubbers on my RFM. And would like to have some spare bulbs.
Is this kit a good deal?
I’d rather have some color on the playfield but not sure what would go well.
ebay.com link

No. Don't do that kid.
Go to titanPinball.comand use their database to get sizes and build your own. You'll be happier; as many times, these kits are on the shelf so long they already dried out.

#3160 1 year ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Don't do that kid.

*kit
not kid. I was like WTF when I re-read that. :LOL:

2 weeks later
#3203 1 year ago

More likely 5 plus 2 zeros... IE 500 ohms.
Look at the schematics to confirm.

To test a pot for opens; you should see ?500 ohms? across the two outside pins. (DVM in resistance mode)
The wiper would measure a percent of that value.

Wipers go bad regularly on these cheap pots. Heat could make it worse.
Also it looks like you ?may? have soldered on the top part of the pot instead of the pin side (bottom of board); if you did - it's possible you may have contaminated the wiper ring on the top side of the pot with solder flux.

#3205 1 year ago
Quoted from msj2222:

any idea where to source these pots?

I don't. Matching pots is hard to do unless you have the original part number.
The problem is everyone seems to make the pots a little different... and no standard "packages" really exist.
If you knew who the original manufacturer was; you might be able to cross to it.
Sadly; the only sure fire way to find the right pot is to measure critical dems and then consult a parametric search like on Digikey.com. And even then; you wouldn't know for sure until you had the replacement in hand to verify.

That said; you might be able to shot-gun buy something and then "make" it work.

1 week later
#3231 1 year ago
Quoted from dashv:

Why have one... when you can have two for twice the price...

'Cause your CrayCray!

4 weeks later
#3280 1 year ago
Quoted from jgecmd:

Seems to be a defective fan. I put a 9v battery to the old fan, it fired right up. No response when testing the new fan. Oh well. Thanks for the help!

Check the pinout.
The red should to positive and black to negative. Yellow is Tach and is unconnected.
I've run across a couple of fans … especially second hand which is wired incorrectly.
https://forum.level1techs.com/t/need-help-wiring-some-fans/101081/2
has a good description what it should look like... that said I have NOT confirmed on my RFM that mine is wired that way. Given its a standard mobo; it should be wired this way.

1 month later
#3356 1 year ago

Contact @boryguard ... I think he debugs pin2k computers

1 week later
#3391 1 year ago

A lot cheaper on Amazon:
amazon.com link »
and Pinside gets a cut from the link above. I also use the molex 63811-1000 for nearly every crimped connector on the pinball machine.

1 week later
#3415 1 year ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

anyone else running v0.1


Yeah... umm. no. Thankfully; I was running 1.5 prior to applejuice 's awesome update. I actually need to DL and install his Halloween update.

#3416 1 year ago
Quoted from applejuice:

A question to RFM owners. Any more 'party mode' flipper options that people would like to see?

IDK if you're still taking requests... nor how "easy" it'd be...

But how about a two person "team" contest?
Where one person operates the left … and the other operates the right. at the same time. up to 4 "teams". Keep a high score table for "Team play". That could be one fun arse party game IMHO.

#3435 1 year ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

Yes they were missing! When I finally figured that out I was so happy to finally track down the issue.

ZOMG; I was right?!
Theehehhehhehe
Glad you got a lead on the problem.

1 month later
#3505 11 months ago

There is always one customer that comes in after a group buy has been ordered.
If you can't find one domestically; send me a PM. I don't have a "next group buy" date; so it may be mid year before we have enough interest to do another group buy.

#3511 11 months ago

I think family mode disables some of the off colour remarks in mars kneeds women (boob jokes) and maybe the Bill Clinton impersonator in the first scene.

1 month later
#3603 9 months ago

Daymn.... Clever. Never thought of using the translite.

#3614 9 months ago

I think there was a foam pad attached to the front of the ball catcher.

4 weeks later
#3746 8 months ago

LEDs were not really widespread use in 2000. Red/Green/Yellow were common; but blue and white came shortly after.
At that time; no one had any idea that RGB or White LEDs would become common. At that time; they had no idea "we" would put LED replacement bulbs in these machines.
I don't blame Pin2k for not advance designing "LED compatability". It's actually a pretty smart design detecting blown bulbs - tbh.

#3755 8 months ago
Quoted from pinballfan2000:

Where do I find release notes for 1.9 version?
I only see notes for 2.0 onwards versions

Just in case you missed this key point.
applejuice is a hobbyist who has coded an awesome - unofficial - upgrade to RFM. I think his first release was 2.0. Anything prior to that was owned and "abandoned" by Williams back when they stopped making pinball machines in favor of/for Slut machines.

Applejuice has done a great service for us RFM owners... please donate and remember he's one guy with limit resources. HE should be treated like the gift he is for this hobby/machine.

#3761 8 months ago
Quoted from j_m_:

the buyer of my machine has purchased all of the parts from me that he wanted but I still have over $2,000 worth of NOS parts available.
google docs link:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pSPuHCN1dEF4UThhP-hq-pfQmexcyIlObRNVfiA2iS4/edit?usp=sharing

Pm sending

1 week later
#3801 8 months ago
Quoted from GTO:

Is it the prism card battery?

yeap. Good luck with that.

#3807 8 months ago

I use the exact same laptop to update.

#3816 8 months ago

What was the issue with the monitor kit?
Who did you buy from?
What did you have to mod?

#3824 8 months ago

Doesn't Windex have ammonia in it which can react badly with the metallic coating on Pin2k glass?
I use old Windex Advanced... which afaik was discontinued.

#3834 7 months ago
Quoted from MrMikeman:

I’m on 1.5. I may have all my computer parts by the weekend. Right now the ArcadeVGA is scheduled to arrive Monday but I think it’ll be faster.

Why change the hardware?
Seriously... if it' an't broke... don't fix it.

#3840 7 months ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Update over serial takes just a few minutes, and you don't even have to crack open the computer case (like you would with the PUB card).

Exactly. That's what I did... Serial over usb.

Or wait for applejuice 's new updating software and do it for a "donation".

#3848 7 months ago
Quoted from robotronjohn:

Make sure you have a USB to NULL serial cable. I bought 2 different ones off Amazon because the first one purchased was not a NULL crossover cable.

The null modem is exterior.
Just wire the cable properly or get a null modem cable. It's only 3 lines. RX->TX, TX->RX, GND-GND

Or buy a null modem "adapter" when you buy the usb to serial converter.

2 weeks later
#3873 7 months ago

Drunk mode should not be in effect for multiball.
Either end it or "stop it" until multiball is complete and resume.

1 month later
#4017 5 months ago

applejuice ... if you're looking for requests.
Can you improve the lan connectivity of RFM?

Specifically; I'm looking for a modernized DHCP client ... and a "web api" service.
I'd like to assign a "Static" IP to the RFM; and have a service connect to the RFM to get critical player data... such as last player(s) score. HSTDs. High score tables; etc.

2 weeks later
#4072 4 months ago
Quoted from Bohm:

Randomly, when I turn it on, the sound will be either super high or all the way down. You can turn it down using the volume buttons, but if there is no sound you have to restart the machine because there is no turning it up. Previous owner told me it started happening after he added more RAM

That doesn't sound like a RAM problem.
That sounds like there is an issue with the audio amp in the system. That said; I don't have any specific experience with the audio section on this machine.
The theory of an Audio Amp issue is further hinted at by "blown speakers".

I'd say it's time to crack open the manual(s) and start troubleshooting the Audio sub-section.
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_2000_Repair#Sound_problems
but not much there.

3 weeks later
#4112 4 months ago
Quoted from mark532011:

custom “gotta repair it or else” machine?

custom. It's a baby AT but based upon AMD GFX processor.
A standard PC is doable; but only in NuCore config.

1 month later
#4185 80 days ago
Quoted from Torre:

Isn’t there a brightness and contrast controls somewhere? I cannot find them.

Yes; the brightness controls are on the back of the monitor and the contrast is one of the pots in the front behind the backglass.

#4188 80 days ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Wells-Gardner D9400 digital-control monitor. Press the OSD button.

Wow. Had no clue that even existed. Neat.

#4197 77 days ago
Quoted from mark532011:

thanks! that fixed it. One new problem popped up, the fan on the cpu heatsink is moving slow and making a lot of noise, it looks like the bearings are bad. Are there replacements available? Its a tiny size, much smaller than modern fans.

By all means go with applejuice 's replacement if he has a good price.
I went with a 50 to 60mm adapter plate on my machine.

#4205 77 days ago
Quoted from DrWaz:

Where are there batteries on this game? Are the AA? I just got a Revenge not that long ago and I thought I looked for batteries but if I missed them please let me know.

Two sets of batteries IIRC.
One on the motherboard (coin cell).
The other is on the prism card ... I heard it was coin cell.

2 weeks later
#4226 59 days ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Just the tube (the screen itself) is scrap. All other parts are still good. The chassis, flyback, yoke, the frame...all still good. I’d love to have that because I have two brand new spare tubes!

I briefly thought about reporting your post as abusive... but then remembered that is only abusive to me.
Congrats you lucky bastage.

1 month later
#4275 27 days ago

Dirty Vertical hold or size pot?
If not; I'm be concerned about high voltage on that monitor. When was the last time that monitor was capped?
Hopefully not a duckscan.

I wouldn't play the game until you figure out the answers to these questions - else you risk frying the high voltage flyback in the monitor.

#4278 27 days ago

The flyback is a transformer device that takes lower voltages and "amplifies" to a high voltage used in the CRT tube to force electrons to the front grid. I don't know what the voltage on the low side is... probably 100 volts or so... and the CRT tube needs like 15000-25000 Volts (no not a typo); to generate the beam that hits the inside phosphor to generate the RGB colors of the monitor.

The flyback is an AC device; but the CRT tube need DC ... so there are diodes and capacitors to convert the AC to DC.
The flyback is unobtanium just like the CRT. If either is damaged; the monitor is landfill.

Caps dry out with Age and Temperature and are usually rated for as low as 5000 hours. The high voltage and high temperature in the monitor chassis leads to pre-mature aging of those caps.
If the Caps short; they can take the flyback with it.

The video you posted looks very much like a fluctuating high voltage rail... which probably means you have bad caps "loading" that rail... which means you're flyback is seriously at risk.

Given you don't know that the monitor and it's high voltage caps have been replaced... you're asking for disappointment when you have to toss that monitor.

One of the first things I did a decade ago when I got my RFM is recap the monitor so "in theory" - mine is good for another 10-15 years. Yours is already past it's shelf date if it hasn't been recapped.

#4283 26 days ago
Quoted from robotron911:

Respectfully, flybacks are not unobtanium.

Put up a link to the flyback transformers used in Duckscan and the Well garner monitor chassis.
If those links point to an actual manufacture that doesn't do it out of his garage; then I will eat my words.

If they aren't available in high volume outlets; then you just proved my point.

Other than that; I do agree "in general terms" with your statements.
That said CRT screens are on life support; and they are on Do Not Resuscitate orders. If you disagree; well... then you aren't paying attention.

#4290 24 days ago

Where are the flybacks for the DuckScan?
I'd happy buy a new one as a spare for later repair.

1 week later
#4333 14 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

When enabled it reverses the flippers for the duration of the happy hour mode.

I having installed a later version yet...
Does happy hour start during that mode... or do you have to hit a specific number of shots/drinks?

1 week later
#4364 6 days ago

@sniik,
stop being a trolling leach.
Pay the man for his work. If you can't afford his reasonable prices... then you need to go back to 1.7-stock.
Oh; you claim you donated - fine. Then don't use his 6ball update. You can't blame the man not supporting you reverse engineering his addition.

To be clear; I did buy his knocker / shaker upgrade when it came out. I haven't bought his 6ball upgrade... but I also haven't upgraded to the latest software. I support applejuice with purchases on his site... when I get around to it; I'll be purchasing his 6ball upgrade... not because I can't design replacement... but because it's the right thing to do.

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