(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"

By kjm8888

5 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #2093 Wells Gardner K700 troubleshooting flow chart Posted by snakesnsparklers (1 year ago)

Post #2187 Links to updating the game code using windows 7 Posted by ForceFlow (1 year ago)

Post #2295 Adding the missing slingshot spotlights Posted by Lhyrgoif (11 months ago)

Post #2312 Version 2.0 custom code announcement Posted by applejuice (11 months ago)

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#871 3 years ago

I'm waiting on a set of OSHPark boards which I designed to be a "plug-in" play implementation of the "video amplifier mod". The idea is it plugs into the front end of the video cable between the cable and the video card instead of "inline" on the main cable.

If there is interest; I'll post here about the success or failure here.

#873 3 years ago

Good to hear. I may make a design change to change the "output" connector from a right angle to a straight PCB mount so one can simply plug it in from the rear of the machine. I looked today and saw that the current design may cause an interference issue. I'll know more when I have it assembled and can test fit it.

#876 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

My monitor looks really good now so how much would this improve the picture?

IDK; tbh. Several people in this thread and other places SWEAR by the mod saying it's a night and day difference.

You can see how the current method isn't plug-in-play from the thread above.

I'll do my best to take before and after pictures once I have it ready.
My goal is to have the RFM w/ the amp at TPF'16 in a few weeks; so I'm planning on assembling them this weekend if not earlier. (assuming all the parts arrive by then)

#881 3 years ago

Got the board and some of the parts today. the non-Right angle VGA connector comes tomorrow (ordered last night).
The idea is to be a completely plug-in-play solution; If we have to pull +5V from the PC... then I have an idea on that as well.

I appreciate the "trust"; wait till you see the new products for Stern Star Trek.

3 weeks later
#887 3 years ago

For those who what to know... my initial RFM video amp board was functional - but seemed to oversaturate the video signal. BUT; it seemed to get the +5V directly from the VGA connector; negating a need for external psu.

I need to either do some competitive analysis... or look at the signals again.

#909 3 years ago
Quoted from lurch:

Seriously don't sweat the MB. The caps on this board are the weak point. If you do have problems find someone who does this kind of work and have them replace the caps. I had mine swapped locally for $80 and I was back up and running in a day.

If you get this issue... contact Rob Anthony at LockWhenLit.com .... as I recall he has stated many times he can work on motherboards and prism cards.

4 weeks later
#949 3 years ago

At TPF; I developed a Red color issue... where I found out if I wiggle the cable going to the Duckscan PCB; the gun with come back intermittently. This weekend; I decided to pull the monitor and examine the connector for a bad solder joint. As you may know; you have to pull the monitor out of the backbox... disassemble most of the monitor; just so you can get at that connector.

I reflowed the connector and started reassembling the beast. Got it all back together and while putting the monitor back in the back box; I heard the horrifying sound of gas being let into the CRT tube. Somehow; while trying to wrangle the monitor into the box; I snapped the glass tube at the neck board. I was so disgusted with myself I just want to cry.

I *hope* to have a replacement CRT on the way - but just noticed it's on "backorder"; so may never see it. <Sigh>

#961 3 years ago

May not have a choice regarding LCD. My hope was to keep the machine original; but MCM Electronics put my CRT order on backorder... then outright cancelled it yesterday. There just isn't any stock left of Tubes.

Does anyone have pointers to stock of LCD adapter plates / Info?

My assumption is Pinball Life carried them with the NuCore stock... but I haven't looked to see if they still do.

#976 3 years ago

Good info. For now; I'm going to try and keep the system "stock-ish" with a CRT from GOV. Else; LCD maybe my next step.
I'm not one to shy away from a tube swap if necessary.

#980 3 years ago

Seems to me that an AFM design could easily be adapted for RFM.

2 months later
#1044 3 years ago

Check the switch gap... if still an issue; I'll look for a bad/defective cap and/or diode.

#1049 3 years ago

Wow ... yes... that looks like EARLY alpha code.
I'd serious consider updating to a later version before chasing any bugs.

2 months later
#1179 3 years ago
Quoted from Badamack:

Does anyone have evidence that a video amp could or could not 'burn up' a crt? I've heard some concern about the way they 'overdrive' the monitor...

AMPs don't overdrive the monitor. The issue is RFM doesn't output the right level voltages to the CGA monitor - IE the voltage is too low.
A correctly designed amp would output just the right voltage level to be compliant to the monitor. So it wouldn't cause burn.

a Cap Kit WILL cause you problems if not installed. If your High Voltage or any other cap goes... it'll cause an overvoltage in the monitor which will fry components. Do yourself a favor, if you suspect Caps are an issue. Fix it first.

#1193 3 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Have you tested the caps to see if they are actually bad?...or are you assuming the caps are bad simply because of a weak/faded picture quality. All mine needed was the amp.

On my duck scan; when I pulled for cap kit... there were SEVERAL caps that were bulging ready to go.
So; yeah... if you suspect you are still running original caps... it's time to consult a professional.

4 months later
#1356 2 years ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

4. The pop pin which captures the ball during the cut scenes doesn't drop on it's own, typically needs a flip of a flipper and it drops and releases the ball, is this how it is meant to be? I played one on location and it had the same behaviour.

Yeah... As I recall it allows you to watch the video/cut scenes in peace before the mayhem starts. I think it does that uniformily for almost all the modes with the exception of one or two buggy transistions?

1 week later
#1404 2 years ago

I think I stopped at 1.5... and didn't upgrade to 1.6.
I don't remember why specifically... it may have had something to due with a bug which prevented a network card from working... or an actual bug.

#1410 2 years ago

I would... except mine is headless due to a cracked neck tube.
Good luck to you guys!

#1413 2 years ago
Quoted from awarner:

Flat Panel, Flat Panel, Flat Panel!

I'm suppose to be getting a donor CRT at TPF... I'm *trying* to keep this thing original ... but it's hard to do.
If this donor CRT has bad burn in... or my tube swap become fail... then well; yeah - LCD is the back up plan.

Quoted from ypurchn:

Error message "Lock diverter stuck open" - Wiring looks good. Mechanisms looks good. Can easily actuate by hand under and on top of PF so I don't think anything is binding. Looking at the exploded diagram the only thing that is sticking out to me is a bad coil? Thoughts? Wanted to check before I dropped $25+ on a coil

Did you do a coil test to see if voltage is getting to the coil? I'd be inclined to be a bad coil... or more likely a bad driver transistor.

Quoted from ypurchn:

So I'm leaning towards this one being a switch issue? But curious as to why the switch 15 error is now cleared if that's the case.

I have seen bad switches in my RFM... due to green "gunk" which I wasn't able to determine the cause of. Either solder used on my machine is causing issues... or there the flux used was causing issues. It could be the switch... but I think I'd use the switch diag screen to verify both switches "fire" when the drop target is manually actuated.

5 months later
#1640 2 years ago
Quoted from awarner:

I'm starting my RFM restore / upgrade this weekend. Most of what I'm doing will tick off the purists. I'm removing the computer and replacing it with a PinBox. The monitor is a 4X3 20" flat panel. Translite will be 3-D. Bill Ung Saucer Kit. New side art, cabinet cleaning/repaint, side rails, T-Moulding, Legs, etc.

I've been wanting to put my some of my Translucent PopBumper bodies on my RFM... but I haven't gotten around to it yet due to the monitor issues. Too many projects... too little time. I'm thinking the green body would look awesome.

#1645 2 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Like the sound of those, would match my Galaxian green T-Molding nicely Just clicked on the link, international shipping available?

Yes, I ship internationally - but you could also buy from the Pinball.Center if you wanted to. For you it is probably a "wash" for who would be cheaper to ship.

3 weeks later
#1657 2 years ago

Electrolytic caps go bad all the time from this era.
It's a lot cheaper to order replacements than it is to fool with it.
If you don't have the skills to replace them... send them to some one like Rob Anthony for repair.

#1660 2 years ago

Just because the mobo is old... doesn't mean it's "destine" for the garbage.
It take skill to keep these machines running... don't ruin it by just tossing what you think is a lost cause.
Just saying; I'd rather keep mine running with original/repaired parts than by tossing the system in favor of a Nucore/Pinbox.

#1664 2 years ago

Thats why i said consult a professional if you need a mobo repaired. Rob is more than capable. For me, id cut off the bad cap and use my Pace desolderer. But i have the equipment...

Are you hoarding those mobos... Or offering them?

1 month later
#1719 2 years ago

I really need to get my RFM functional... <sigh>
Honestly; the hold up right now is I can't find the damn monitor's Power connector so I can build a bench plug to enable me to do some testing of the monitor outside the machine/cabinet. (Tube swap; expecting to need convergence at a minimum)
I've ordered like 3 different molex style connectors; and none of them have the right "rounded square" keying. I'm toying with the idea of 3D printing a correct connector.

#1721 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Are you talking about the stock monitor? I had a friend with the stock WG monitor in theirs and I made a new connector to interface with the video amp board. Standard molex connector and pins nothing special.

Yes stock; but not the Video signal connector. The Power connector. As in 120VAC.
It appears that the connector is nolonger made - or I can't find the right manufacturer.

1 month later
#1762 1 year ago
Quoted from maffewl:

black tape film.

Friction tape? The same stuff used to mount lift channels on Backglasses?

1 month later
#1801 1 year ago

look in the upper left corner of the secondary (solder) side of the board. He burnt a trace off... an fixed it with a wire jump.

#1815 1 year ago

Tonight I fired up my RFM monitor after swapping boards to the non-cracked CRT.
Fired right up. Did a little convergence adjustment and looks pretty good. I'm going to try and reassemble my RFM head tomorrow; but it's forecasted to rain here... so that my limit my ability to move games around to work on the RFM.
We'll see.

#1817 1 year ago

Rain was spotty; so I became an active member of this club again:
P_20180121_170006[1] (resized).jpg
Original CRT swapped out. No LCD here.

2 weeks later
#1855 1 year ago
Quoted from hocuslocus:

I would of preferred to stay with CRT, but I couldn't get it to work 100% with pinbox. the picture was always messed up. I even tried the arcade vga video card.

Please don't toss your CRT... if you decide to do so; please contact me and I'll come take it off your hands. ;D

#1865 1 year ago

Glad it went to a home.
For anyone reading this... Never, EVER, toss your CRT unless you know it's has a cracked tube.
These things are no longer being made... eventually, machines will die because no CRTs are left because no one is making tubes anymore.
Someone will take it. Guaranteed.

#1885 1 year ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I learned that one the hard way too. I said "You've got to be kidding". It must have been easier to build that way. Replaced.them with a discreet wired wedge base socket.

Did the same on my STNG. I even put these:
under the PF and tied the wedge socket leds to it (Stern Star Trek - did this, so not my original idea). The picture is wrong in the link. It's a 3 position terminal lug.

#1887 1 year ago

Yes, but I got them cheaper at PBL:

While you are changing them out; you might as well replace the base too (shameless plug):
pinball-mods.com Pop Bumper Body
bumper body

#1890 1 year ago
Quoted from kdunbar:

Are you bringing any to TPF?

Not planning on taking any product for sale at TPF.
TPF is a social thing for me; so, the only thing I do are:
My machines will be outfitted with my mods for people to interact with.

I will; of course, will hand deliver any product purchased to TPF as I've done in the past.

#1894 1 year ago

Define, not booting.
Is the powerswitch on the CPU set properly to allow a boot? I know; simple - but had to ask.
Did you check / follow the green/black/white main's power cable to make sure it is plugged into the IEC connector which plugs into the PSU on the CPU?

#1896 1 year ago

My assumption is that when Rob fixed your computer... it was the entire computer... including the Prism card.
If that is true - then I'd wager something shook loose during shipping back.
Have you tried removing / reseating the cards?

Have you asked Rob for advice?

Something looks off to me; Shouldn't the RED LEDs in the prism card light?

#1904 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

First is a replacement fan. Can someone post a link where to buy one? OR is you have one for sale.

Which one?
CPU, PSU, or other?

#1909 1 year ago

I have a broken neck on my "now backup" CRT for this beast.
I'd love to buy a "known good" CRT from someone so I could tube swap and get the back up working.
Any interest in helping me source a donor tube?

#1917 1 year ago
Quoted from alexmogil:

Star Wars: Episode I thread, or is this pretty much the de facto Pinball 2000 club thread?

I just think no one has created one.
I don't own SWEP1... so have no real interest.

1 week later
#1939 1 year ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

Can I run an update without a computer?

I think it requires a null serial cable and an XP computer.
Otherwise; you'll need the update card which Borygard probably has.

1 week later
#1950 1 year ago

Again, please don't trash the CRT if you go the LCD route.
Offer it locally ... or even here on Pinside so we can save the tube for future needs.

#1952 1 year ago

You could send an PM to borygard to see if he works on Pin2K monitors... if so; ship him your monitor for repair.
Would be expensive (to ship); but would be done right if not broken during shipment.
However, I'm remembering he only works on Pin2k CPUs - not the monitors themselves.

Other than that; I can't offer any specific suggestions as I did my chassis swap here to correct for a broken CRT neck. Prior to that; I did my own re-cap and other minor repairs.

#1960 1 year ago
Quoted from tonylo909:

Anyone want it, come by and get it!

Next time I'm in FL I will.

2 months later
#2023 1 year ago
Quoted from TBatti:

battery is by chance?

On the computer motherboard is the only one I know of

#2027 1 year ago
Quoted from TBatti:

I read there is one on the motherboard and one on the prism card. What is the best way to access these??? I don't know how to get at them???
I've never worked on my RFM at all and I'm trying to understand where everything is and how to get at it.

I don't recall if there is one on the Prism Card.
Both are in the computer cabinet in the head above the monitor.
To get to the computer; remove the Backglass. Then the computer can be slid "out" while the back part of the computer case remains in the channel. From there you can remove the computer case's cover and then access the battery(ies).

#2041 1 year ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Yes, sandwiched between the Prism PCI card and its daughterboard. Word of caution, be extremely gently when prying these cards apart! Seen many with the connectors ripped off.

I have never replaced mine only the coincell on the mobo.
Please tell me the Prism battery isn't NiCAD or Rechargeable... because I really don't want to feel like I have a time bomb waiting for me.

"Lithium Battery BR2335 on the PRISM Sandwich Board. Not easy to swap, to only if you must. So far I am not sure, what problems exactly happen, when this battery gets empty. So far I have seen that they have still > 3,3 Volts! " -- http://www.pinball2000.de/troubleshooting.htm#BATTERY_PROBLEMS

so; whew... no time bomb.

#2067 1 year ago

That board is too clean... you had to have washed it or something.
I think I recapped everything myself... but noticed something similar.
I think I recall removing a couple of bulged caps on mine.

Just be careful when putting that board back... the neck of the tube is not a handle... neither is the neck board. yes; I'm speaking form experience.

#2070 1 year ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

he caps were original and none were leaking or bulging. I'm always super careful around those necks! They snap easy! That hiss will make you sick!

yeah.. 77 plays; wow. I'm jelly.
Mine was taken care of for the most part; I don't understand it's complete history; but much of mine's life was spent in a church here in TX.
The only real problem I've had with mine is some of the rear switches have grown some green slime which I think was related to some of the solder flux used during assembly at Williams.

1 week later
#2095 1 year ago

Philly, do you have a CGA source that you can attach to the monitor?
IE so you can eliminate the rfm's Computer as the culprit?

I used Test Pattern Generator to verify my RFM monitor after I did a chassis swap. I know you proably don't need to spend another 89usd... but I figured I'd use mine to debug my Voyager monitor which is in a similar state.

2 months later
#2164 1 year ago

I *finally* got around to replacing my CPU fan... I'm pretty sure it had the oem cpu fan on it... and had already cleaned and oiled the fan 8 or so years ago. It sorely needed to be replaced. I installed a 60mm Noctura fan on the 50mm cpu socket mainly to keep the noise to an absolute minimum. It also has the added benefit of attaching the cpu fan header on the Pin2k motherboard.

I did a quick write up on my blog:

where I've made the DXF file available under the "free" TAPR/NCL license. I've also put the Fan Adapter on Shapeways for those who don't have access to a laser cutter.

60mm Fan Adapter - Test Fit

3 weeks later
#2183 1 year ago

I found the serial cable update to be the easiest. It doesn't really require special hardware... I had a Null serial cable in my cable box.
That said; I understand why PUB cards are considered easier because you don't have to setup a WinXP box.

#2185 1 year ago
Quoted from bobwiley:

Do you know if v 1.8 or 1.9 are available to update via null serial cable?

AFAIK; all Pin2k software can be updated via a null serial cable.
The sticking point most people have is they don't have a WinXP laptop they can carry to the machine. I beleive the tool has issues with Win Vista and later tools. I imagine a WinXP Virtual machine would work as well.

When I tried the ?1.6? update... I had a Dell WinXP laptop with real serial port. I ended going back to the previous update because there was something I didn't like about the new modes. I still have the XP laptop ... and now several VMs because my Laser cutter also requires WinXP 32bit for it's drivers. Ricky's site actually seems to have instructions:

3 weeks later
#2218 1 year ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

Keeping the UV away from my artwork on my games is always a must.

I don't really want to rain on your parade... but White LEDs can actually be UV emitters.
*some* White LEDs work by producing UV light which is then converted to white by Phosphors in the LED... Just like it's done on CFL tubes.
I'm not sure most White LED vendors actually show the UV present in the spectrum; so it's difficult to prove that converting from CFL to WhiteLEDs is better or worse on the art.

Here's an article from a quick Google Search:

1 month later
#2320 11 months ago
Quoted from Joe_Blasi:

and what is bad about less ram?? it's not like that type is hard to find.

Agreed; however, the POST is quite a bit longer with 8MB.

2 weeks later
#2394 10 months ago
Quoted from BobLangelius:

any chance we could get a real knocker while your in there, doctor?

I like this idea... Like it a lot.

2 months later
1 week later
#2622 7 months ago

Yeap; good place to start.

#2639 7 months ago

how far along are you w/ regards to the Shaker Kits / wiring harnesses?
I sent a PM to you on 1/28 (I'll reply again) to put me on the list; but never heard from you.

With V2.1 coming soon... I'd like to start planning.

#2642 7 months ago

Great, I understand about those projects. I have at least 4 in the pipeline myself. That doesn't include the damn IncomeTax I'm still working on. Luckily; that'll be done by tomorrow at midnight.

#2645 7 months ago

yeah... hum... wtf
Double sticky tape; really? might as well have thermal epoxied the heatsink down.

hard to see in that picture - does the heatsink even have both the tab hooks?
Is the socket on the mobo broken? IE does it have both heatsink tabs?

I'd be more than a little worried that there was a reason for the stupid-hack.

1 week later
#2678 6 months ago

Please contact me via PM. I have a contact which can have these made cheaply.
I'm happy to help out if you'd like.

#2682 6 months ago

I don't think it's been suggested; But, I am *not* trying to take business from Applejuice... my goal is simply to support him in his endeavor as I think the work he's doing for RFM is very awesome. Regardless of what he decides; I'll be buying the knocker loom from him to support his work on the game software. It's well deserved.

I have some experience making wiring harnesses for projects like my Laser mods for Stern Star Trek.. so I'm happy to help him find a source if it helps him avoid crimping these darn things by hand.

1 week later
#2725 6 months ago

The lamp test feature is an opamp design on the hardware of the board on the bottom of the cabinet.
I'd be surprised if applejuice could do anything more than disable it it in software.
Another option might be to duplicate the lamptest grid and allow the owner to disable lamp test for specific lamps that have LEDs. IE for those that don't have 100% LED conversions.

#2726 6 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

they really did innovate a ton with pinball 2000... yet somehow... they arrived at...
PVC pipe

What's wrong with PVC? Cheap; easy to source. Easy to replace.

#2734 6 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Also, on the lamp test front with LED usage. If anyone wants to pm me for an ee tech discussion on the operation of the lamp RC circuit charge and decay test timing

applejuice Why take it to PM?
I think it should be a group conversations. Why not start a new thread in the appropriate forum here on Pinside?
I'd participate especially if you can post the current timings as you understand them.
Hell; I might even be convinced to pull out my oscilloscope.

2 weeks later
#2821 6 months ago

I agree regard the crap microswitches in RFM.
I've had to replace about 3-4 of the p.o.s… on my game; they seem to be worse in the upper PF. In nearly every case; I can pull them and see some green ooze coming out of them. I'm not sure what that ooze is... but I'm guessing it may be left over flux from the manufacturing line which has "grown" into the actual switch body gunking up the internal mechs.

Last time I ended up buying the modern DB3 microswitches from digikey and moving the rollover wire to the body.

#2837 5 months ago

Since we are talking about a clock...
Can we get a NTP setting to specify an NTP server so the machine can autosync to the date/time of a server?

2 weeks later
#2918 5 months ago
Quoted from Sonic:

you won't burn a flipper coil....since this isn't a Stern

More importantly... make it an option to enable and leave it disabled by default.

2 weeks later
#2976 4 months ago

shotout to applejuice for an awesome 2.1 update.
I easily upgraded from 1.5 to 2.1 with a homemade null modem cable and my old XP laptop.
No issues.

#2994 4 months ago

Installed my knocker... Repurposed a bally knocker from water damaged bally Star trek:

P_20190705_171053 (resized).jpg
#2996 4 months ago
Quoted from Sonic:

You have it striking the metal housing? I was going to ask where folks were installing theirs.....

Yes of the AC box... I was going to make a metal strike plate and mount it somewhere else; but applejuice's harness was to short and I didn't plan ahead with my own wiring by making mine longer.

If your going to install an existing knocker with a diode like mine; remember the banded side of the diode goes to brown (+50V) and the unbanded goes to blue (switched grounded). It'd be smart to remove the diode; but I didn't. I may live to regret it.

#2999 4 months ago

I think pin2k has diodes built into the board... But someone will need to confirm is the schematics

#3001 4 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

It looks as if the knocker and shaker are on Drive Bank C (DRV 18 and DRV 19)... those do not have diodes on them.

The knocker assembly suggested by applejuice does appear to have the diode on it... so this is more evidence you may need the diode.

#3013 4 months ago

I'm about 90% sure my tilt is on the lhs (player's prospective) as well.
In fact; I'm positive now that I think about it. Mine was not "behind" the coil power disable switch but on the same side as the ac box.

1 week later
#3061 4 months ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

I wonder which fuse can disable the door button ??

I'm guessing because the +50V is out; the door thinks it's closed; disabling the buttons via software.

3 weeks later
#3106 3 months ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

. Next thing I'm thinking is maybe the capacitors on the motherboard?

That's my first guess.
On my Mobo; the caps started bulging. Unless you have the equipment to replace these easily (a good vacuum desolderer); you'll want to send this out to borygard for repair if they are indeed bulging.
Otherwise; IIRC - the original PSU was a Deer AT powersupply. I'm pretty sure I replaced mine as soon as I found it.

#3111 3 months ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

ricochet and zitt do you know the specs on the capacitors to replace?

I do not. Just look at the Caps in your board and replace if they are bulging or have evidence of liquid escaping.

Quoted from johnstewart:

Also, what the heck is "c" here? I thought capacitors had a voltage (v) and a capacitance (uf); what the heck is c?

And, I think I can replace it with a higher voltage capable one, I'm good. In other words, a 10v capacitor can replace a 6.3v one (but not vice-versa, obviously)?

Can you recommend a place to buy? I"m comfortable enough with desoldering/replacing myself.

This is a multi-layer Motherboard - maybe 6 or more layers. Simple desoldering you've been use-to on pinball boards won't cut the mustard on this. IE it's hard to desolder all those layers without damaging inner layers... or applying enough heat to melt the solder on the massive power planes these caps are on.
Seriously; unless you've worked on 4+ layer boards with some high end thru hole desoldering equipment - just don't. Consult a professional.

If you're still serious about ruining your board yourself; capacitance (uF) can generally be replaced with slightly larger value caps without issue. IE only have 1200uf but the original is 1000uf.
Voltage rating of the cap (VDC) is simular. You should try to match voltages in general. This measurement is "working voltage". Running a 50V electro in place of a 6.3VDC may lead to issues, IIRC. Never use a lower rated voltage cap in place of a higher. Sparks will fly.
Temperature ratings (degrees C) are ratings for the temperature profile of a given device. I usually go with higher temperature for motherboard caps. IE I will replace 80C caps with 105C as long as they are rated better. IF you are really curious: Wikipediahas a good description of lifetime effects and failure modes. See Arrhenius rule.

#3114 3 months ago

Get some coin reject art on that coin buttons - Stat:

CoinRejectSTRFM-300x211 (resized).jpg
#3119 3 months ago

If you do decide to go LCD; please don't trash the CRT. Donate it to someone here who can keep it for parts/repair. CRTs are no longer being made; and replacement tubes are hard to find. It'd be a sad day if the CRT ended up in China/Philippines ewaste craters.

#3128 3 months ago
Quoted from dashv:

Love it! Now I want one for my RFM.

Dash... You're becoming addicted to Pinside. Does your wife need to stage an intervention?
But seriously; welcome to the rollercoaster of Pinside.
Have you installed applejuice 's RFM update yet?

#3140 3 months ago
Quoted from dashv:

I swear to God you guys are gonna bankrupt me.

Then don't go look at the mods I did for my STNG.

#3142 3 months ago
Quoted from dashv:

Don’t you dare provide a link!

Ok. I won't .

#3144 89 days ago
Quoted from dashv:

I’m getting the metal decals. But I may not use all of them. The other stuff I’m not sure about.

IT's ok... let you're pocket book recover. Don't piss off the wife.

#3156 87 days ago
Quoted from dashv:

Folks, I need to clean my playfield and replace the rubbers on my RFM. And would like to have some spare bulbs.
Is this kit a good deal?
I’d rather have some color on the playfield but not sure what would go well.
ebay.com link

No. Don't do that kid.
Go to titanPinball.comand use their database to get sizes and build your own. You'll be happier; as many times, these kits are on the shelf so long they already dried out.

#3160 86 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Don't do that kid.

not kid. I was like WTF when I re-read that. :LOL:

2 weeks later
#3203 70 days ago

More likely 5 plus 2 zeros... IE 500 ohms.
Look at the schematics to confirm.

To test a pot for opens; you should see ?500 ohms? across the two outside pins. (DVM in resistance mode)
The wiper would measure a percent of that value.

Wipers go bad regularly on these cheap pots. Heat could make it worse.
Also it looks like you ?may? have soldered on the top part of the pot instead of the pin side (bottom of board); if you did - it's possible you may have contaminated the wiper ring on the top side of the pot with solder flux.

#3205 70 days ago
Quoted from msj2222:

any idea where to source these pots?

I don't. Matching pots is hard to do unless you have the original part number.
The problem is everyone seems to make the pots a little different... and no standard "packages" really exist.
If you knew who the original manufacturer was; you might be able to cross to it.
Sadly; the only sure fire way to find the right pot is to measure critical dems and then consult a parametric search like on Digikey.com. And even then; you wouldn't know for sure until you had the replacement in hand to verify.

That said; you might be able to shot-gun buy something and then "make" it work.

1 week later
#3231 63 days ago
Quoted from dashv:

Why have one... when you can have two for twice the price...

'Cause your CrayCray!

4 weeks later
#3280 35 days ago
Quoted from jgecmd:

Seems to be a defective fan. I put a 9v battery to the old fan, it fired right up. No response when testing the new fan. Oh well. Thanks for the help!

Check the pinout.
The red should to positive and black to negative. Yellow is Tach and is unconnected.
I've run across a couple of fans … especially second hand which is wired incorrectly.
has a good description what it should look like... that said I have NOT confirmed on my RFM that mine is wired that way. Given its a standard mobo; it should be wired this way.

1 month later
#3356 4 days ago

Contact @boryguard ... I think he debugs pin2k computers

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