(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

5 years ago



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  • 3,435 posts
  • 312 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 hours ago by Zitt
  • Topic is favorited by 143 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #2093 Wells Gardner K700 troubleshooting flow chart Posted by snakesnsparklers (1 year ago)

Post #2187 Links to updating the game code using windows 7 Posted by ForceFlow (1 year ago)

Post #2295 Adding the missing slingshot spotlights Posted by Lhyrgoif (1 year ago)

Post #2312 Version 2.0 custom code announcement Posted by applejuice (12 months ago)


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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider ypurchn.
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#1336 2 years ago

Just got my RFM and SW1 in this week. So far have been going through RFM and getting things right. Previous owner had installed 1 LED bulbs and mostly color matched except for the GI which they did in domed, frosted, cool white. I replaced a few of the burnt out bulbs with 1 SMD domed, frosted, sunlight (a little more yellow than cool but not natural white) whites and it's brightened up the field - almost too much as it's now a little harder to see the screen.

So now my ? - what are you guys using to brighten up the field without taking away from the monitor? I was thinking of going with 1 SMD frosted red or maybe some purple's to brighten it up without overpowering it. Thoughts?

What is everyone's success with cointaker or pinballlife kits?

Thoughts on going back to incandescent? I've seen a lot of posts (mostly older) about keeping in incandescent for the dimming effects.

#1340 2 years ago

So I ended up moving all of the GI back to incandescent. Really made things a lot better IMO and helps soften the field plus I get the dimming back. I left the under playfield lights as is - they are 1 LED color matched with the domes removed so I didn't really see any point in changing them as it wouldn't drastically change anything.

Thanks everyone for the feedback.

#1343 2 years ago

Does use of LED OCD boards allow for LEDs to be used but still get the same effect of the incandescents?
Lots of my back LEDs were blown and almost looked melted and/or had some sort of brownish fluid oozing from under the cap. I'm assuming the dimming effects wore them out very quickly.

Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

You may try white LEDs under the martian target inserts. Green LEDs washes the drawings out. White LEDs light them well while keeping the white outlines and red eyes intact.

Apparently it does! I never even realized these had red/white in them. Thanks for the tip. I'll try it out and post results.

#1345 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

To your first question yes it does.
Do you have an OCD board in the game? I ask because I've never heard of one being made for this game or one being put in.
Sounds like you may have a problem with your board and your lights are being overdriven.
I've had an OCD board in my Avatar and NASCAR for a couple of years now and have had no problem of them dimming or brown stuff oozing out.
Can you post a close up picture of a couple of those leds?

No mine doesn't have an OCD board or at least that I've discovered. I just making sure I understood how they worked. I didn't see anything pin2k specific but that was my next question.

I'll get some pics of the bulbs once I get back to the house.

Few other questions.
Read some previous comments ( I think it was way back on like page 6) and saw about replacing the power supply with AT or ATX. Just a question about the supply that was linked. Why is the AT 230w and the ATX is 480 watt. Am I missing something obvious? What wattage should we be using for RFM and SW1?
StarTech.com 230 Watt PS2 Replacement Computer PC Power Supply - PS2POWER230 amazon.com link »
Logisys Corp. 480W 240-Pin Black Beauty ATX 20+4 Power Supply PS480D-BK amazon.com link »

What's everyone using for a power supply replacement?
What about for fan replacements?
Any other preventative maintenance things I should be replacing?

#1347 2 years ago

So upon further inspections I think that what I was seeing is just a weird discoloration that was coming through on the red and white LEDs around the plastic dome and the color band. That combined with years of dirt and dust made it look more oozey. I noticed that any bulbs that had the caps removed didn't show these same discoloration.

IMG_3743 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#1349 2 years ago

Does anyone have any experience with their RFM cutting off mid game - like a full power loss? I've had a few issues over the last few days

1. I had just moved the game about 2 ft. by nudging it along. Started playing. Got a few games in and everything went black.
2. Couldn't find an obvious solution so started playing again. 30 minute later - game cuts out. Can't find anything wrong. No smoke. No smells. No black surge marks anywhere I can find under PF. Resets fine. Play 5 more games no issues. Turn off power and go to bed.
3. Next day, sliding PF out with game on (I know, it should be off please no lectures). "Jiggle" PF to get into lock slots on rails and everything goes black.
4. Start checking molex connectors and find a few that are inserted but not "clipped" like the almost 20 year old plastic has lost its "spring"
5. Think that maybe I found the problem. Had the game on for 4-5 hours while playing throughout the night (20 ish games) no issues. Ball gets stuck on a switch and I start rocking the machine. DARKNESS!

Any thoughts? All the fuses are fine. It's a hard cutoff as if I pulled the power cord. Fan is working on board and power supply and I pulled the CPU cover off of the CPU box so I don't think it's overheating related. Power distribution box is showing 123V in and out.

Is there someplace else I should be looking? Only thing I can think to do is go through molex by molex and check connections - probably already touched >50%.

Bad CPU power supply?

Any random places to check are greatly appreciated.

#1378 2 years ago

I should play the lottery...

IMG_3779 (resized).JPG

#1382 2 years ago
Quoted from Iizi:

Check capacitors on PC CPU-board, you can probably tell if they are bad by just looking.

Caps looks good. nice and black. No bulges

Quoted from mattosborn:

I've seen problems after moving an RFM that were fixed by re-seating the Prism card in its ISA slot.

I'll give this one a try next

Thanks for the help

#1397 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Caps looks good. nice and black. No bulges

I'll give this one a try next
Thanks for the help

Just to close this one out - I pulled the playfield and went through each connector and re-attached it. This seems (fingers crossed!) to have resolved the issue as I've put ~12 games in and no hard shut offs.

In summary, my game was going pitch black or a full loss of power - caps were good, but found ~30% of the connectors to be loose or not fully "clipped" in.

Thanks everyone for the help!

Finally "Attacked Mars" last night... didn't get past stage 3...

#1399 2 years ago
Quoted from Alamo_Pin:

I am running version 1.2 and can't find the ball save feature anywhere in the adjustments. Do I need a more recent update?

Top line of feature adjustments.

IMG_3824 (resized).JPG

#1407 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinfidel:

Hi guys.
Anyway, I installed the tube light and I tell you, it's a MUST have. Not only does it burn a lot cooler but it shines perfectly across the entire translite without reflecting off the PF glass. Additionally, it hooks right into the existing ballast. No modifications or connections are needed. AND, once it's in, you can actually turn the whole light and point it where you want. I actually have mine pointing about 60 degrees upward. It's perfect. Doesn't blind you either. You will love this light.
Here's the link...
amazon.com link »

So I ordered the bulb mentioned here. Before installing this 12-24V bulb, I checked the circuitry and my lighting is operating on 120V. So the bulb mentioned above does NOT work. I believe others have mentioned issues in previous posts but I'm bringing it back up in hopes someone doesn't make my mistake.

So I returned the previous one and went with this instead

amazon.com link »

Very simple to install: removed the starter (2" white capacitor looking thing on the back of the light bracket), disconnect the ballast wires (4" square metal box located in the top left hand corner of the back it has 2 black wires running to/from it), with the ballast removed I had to complete the circuit so I jumpered the wires together. Did this install so if down the road someone wanted to put a fluorescent back in, it could easily be done.

#1412 2 years ago

A few lingering errors I'm trying to address:

Error message "Lock diverter stuck open" - Wiring looks good. Mechanisms looks good. Can easily actuate by hand under and on top of PF so I don't think anything is binding. Looking at the exploded diagram the only thing that is sticking out to me is a bad coil? Thoughts? Wanted to check before I dropped $25+ on a coil

next one

Error messages: "Drop target switch or up coil bad" also have "Drop target switch or down coil bad" error. Previously had these 2 error messages + "check switch 15 drop target down" - Fixed the switch 15 error by reattaching a loose wire. The drop target still goes up and down. So I'm leaning towards this one being a switch issue? But curious as to why the switch 15 error is now cleared if that's the case.

Only other errors I have (more in case they impact the other 2 issues I'm having) - check switch 18 - shooter lane - pretty sure this one is my fault was readjusting the wireform to lower it and think I damaged the switch itself
switch 63 - left jet - haven't determine this ones exact issue yet but haven't really looked at it

Any help or pointers is appreciated.

#1414 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Did you do a coil test to see if voltage is getting to the coil? I'd be inclined to be a bad coil... or more likely a bad driver transistor.

Ahh yes forget to actually let the machine tell me something. So I just went down and tried it out. Coil drive 37 is working and the gate swings closed. Drive 38 which is the "hold" function causes no movement. So it's getting voltage.

While cycling through the test I noticed that the right flipper "hold" doesn't work either (coil drive 34) - but I've never had issues with this in a game? The only reason I point this out is based on the diagrams it appears they're on the same board driver board and connector - J112

Quoted from Zitt:

I have seen bad switches in my RFM... due to green "gunk" which I wasn't able to determine the cause of. Either solder used on my machine is causing issues... or there the flux used was causing issues. It could be the switch... but I think I'd use the switch diag screen to verify both switches "fire" when the drop target is manually actuated.

So I think the switch knew I was talking about it... wrote these problems down a few days ago after I replaced the switch wire. Didn't even read the test report this time just went right into switch diagnostics. Everything was looking fine. Backed out and looked at the report and now all of the 'drop target switch..." messages are gone. Wondering if maybe it took a few game cycles for this error to clear since this message isn't tied to a direct coil or switch. Maybe after so many faults the machine flags things as an issue. Then it has to see so many instances of the function working before it clears? Could be overdrinking, I mean thinking, this...

Thanks zitt for the quick help!

#1416 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

So I ordered the bulb mentioned here. Before installing this 12-24V bulb, I checked the circuitry and my lighting is operating on 120V. So the bulb mentioned above does NOT work. I believe others have mentioned issues in previous posts but I'm bringing it back up in hopes someone doesn't make my mistake.
So I returned the previous one and went with this instead
amazon.com link »
Very simple to install: removed the starter (2" white capacitor looking thing on the back of the light bracket), disconnect the ballast wires (4" square metal box located in the top left hand corner of the back it has 2 black wires running to/from it), with the ballast removed I had to complete the circuit so I jumpered the wires together. Did this install so if down the road someone wanted to put a fluorescent back in, it could easily be done.

Finished product pic

IMG_3840 (resized).JPG

#1423 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Ahh yes forget to actually let the machine tell me something. So I just went down and tried it out. Coil drive 37 is working and the gate swings closed. Drive 38 which is the "hold" function causes no movement. So it's getting voltage.
While cycling through the test I noticed that the right flipper "hold" doesn't work either (coil drive 34) - but I've never had issues with this in a game? The only reason I point this out is based on the diagrams it appears they're on the same board driver board and connector - J112

Any thoughts from the group before I start a new topic?

3 weeks later
#1456 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

I ordered a set from MrPinball. Have not yet installed (might start that project this weekend). They look super nice though and are printed on a nice heavy vinyl.

Can you post a link to the decals? I'm struggling to find these.

1 week later
#1479 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Ahh yes forget to actually let the machine tell me something. So I just went down and tried it out. Coil drive 37 is working and the gate swings closed. Drive 38 which is the "hold" function causes no movement. So it's getting voltage.
While cycling through the test I noticed that the right flipper "hold" doesn't work either (coil drive 34) - but I've never had issues with this in a game? The only reason I point this out is based on the diagrams it appears they're on the same board driver board and connector - J112

So I think the switch knew I was talking about it... wrote these problems down a few days ago after I replaced the switch wire. Didn't even read the test report this time just went right into switch diagnostics. Everything was looking fine. Backed out and looked at the report and now all of the 'drop target switch..." messages are gone. Wondering if maybe it took a few game cycles for this error to clear since this message isn't tied to a direct coil or switch. Maybe after so many faults the machine flags things as an issue. Then it has to see so many instances of the function working before it clears? Could be overdrinking, I mean thinking, this...
Thanks zitt for the quick help!

I was overthinking this. Switch 74 was bad and showing up in the test report. I fixed that and it cleared this issue with the diverter gate. Makes sense that the system doesn't see the gate closed if the switch never activates.

2 months later and all 9 errors fixed on a "used working and clean" game purchased off of pinside. No one to blame but myself for the mistake. Didn't start a thread whining about it or bashing the seller. Manned up. Learned how to fix shit and got it done.

1 week later
#1499 2 years ago

does anyone know if there is a way to trick the game into seeing LEDs? Say via adding a resistor to each one? Or something similar to a LED OCD board or something. I'm not interested in it as I agree the incandescents looks great. Just looking to learn more from a theoretical standpoint.

#1515 2 years ago
Quoted from SpaceWar:

Hello all. Does anyone knew who carries original style RFM flippers with the logo and right color?
I've looked all around at the major vendors and none of them have the Williams embossed green flippers. I have one that the flipper has broken loose on the shaft and drops each time a ball hits it.
Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!
Tom

I believe you can't find them because you're looking for the wrong flipper color. I believe the original color is white.

3 weeks later
#1588 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

Is there a LED replacement for the fluorescent light in the backbox? Mine looks like the original, and it works but makes quite a loud noise.

Yes I did a quick little blurb about current options as some of the older options posted didn't work in my machine. You should be able to find it a few pages back. Sorry on my phone or I'd post the link.

#1593 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

Cool thanks, I found it. However, I was under the impression that ALL rfm machines used 120V for the light no matter what region voltage the machine was set to use. Why did pinfidel (who you quoted) get the lamp model he chose to work, but you didn't?
It seems also one needs to mod some wires etc, but I guess it's due to not needing the "starter system" anymore.

Not sure. You can go back to some of the first pages of the group for his original post that's where I found it or search this thread for LED or his name and it should come up.
I'm assuming he grabbed 12 volts from somewhere. Or the item listed on amazon changed its spec?

2 weeks later
#1626 2 years ago

RFM was a casualty of wanting to sell SWE1. So, sadly I'm leaving the club. I'll be on the lookout for another RFM probably sooner rather than later.

Thanks everyone for all of the help along the way.

9 months later
#1972 1 year ago

I miss my RFM. if someone within a couple hours of ATL is interested in selling, please let me know. I currently have a CO1812 I could put towards a trade + cash.

4 months later
#2149 1 year ago
Quoted from BobC:

I know...this is a lame question. But how much do you think a routed RFM is worth? Unfortunately the Pinside machine list says the RFM price range is only $2680 - $3120. But the Boston Pinball Ebay summery from 2013 to 2018 says averages for 2013 3,299, 2014 3,235, 2015 3,802, 2016 3,266, 2017 4,123, 2018 3,500, and overall 3,567
It's routed with some wear on the side of the cab from a strap during shipping and in front where the door lock bar padlock was. Playfield has some chipped paint where the balls drain (can't be seen normally and spot is now coated with varathane) also wear in front of the left most square target in front of the ball catcher (reinforced targets installed and varathane put on wear spot)
Other than that it's pretty much very good with a great condition tube monitor and original PC, cliffy, plastics protectors, painted Martians, extra plastics set, 3D- translite as well as original, target decals, new ball catcher plastic, new flap, extra flap, extra "modern" PC with pinbox disc, LCD monitor when needed, and LCD mount...and some other stuff odds and ends.
Location is California if that matters.
Thanks!
BobC

Those extras are nice but I’m not seeing anything that is truly unobtainium- maybe the flaps? So not much value there IMO.

I “think” these PFs were fairly robust as I don’t see many pop up with obvious wear. Maybe 1 in the last year of the pinside adds. So it’s lived a hard life IMO. mid-high 2s? No way I go over 3 with the PF wear and even then it’s a hard sell. If it’s been well maintained and going into a home environment that box of parts is just an expensive insurance policy for some day that may never come. Could maybe flip the plastics and translite? Or just let him keep the parts and buy the game as is?

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