It's been a long search, finally in the club! I have a question: Has anyone ever had the game lockup while viewing diagnostics menu? I was browsing through some stuff there and when I tried to view current volume setting in the audio diagnostics, not a single button would respond - coin door, cabinet, nothing - had to power down to restart.

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Did the same thing trying to view "grand champion" score in the menu. Software version issue?

OK. Pin 2K is just foreign, new territory to explore. I tried getting into the power saver adjustment and the tilt warning adjustment and same thing, not a single button could take me out of it except the power switch, and I know all the coin door switches work for other features. Really strange.

Also came up with a new problem I hadn't notice because the "all tests" passes, and all lamps pass. When testing single lamps, in some columns and rows are getting more than one lamp to illuminate. The logic doesn't appear to sense this anomaly. I haven't located the root cause.

So what am I looking for after getting the 9 modes? I thought it was supposed to enter the "Attack mars" final sequence, but it cleared all the mode achievement lamps and went back to Alien Abduction. Seems I missed something.

So then it clears everything you've accomplished and you need to start over?

OK. So, "easier" if you can get it on the first pass. I drained right after I went back to Alien Abduction on the last ball. It would have been quite a bit of play to get through all the modes again from that point. Thanks for the help.

Thanks Mattosborn

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Tried replacing the monitor cable?

On another thread:

This can be changed in the feature adjustments as well.

At least replace the CPU fan, second replace that power supply. When these items fail, they can cause damage to other components. It's all of about $50 and an hour to improve reliability and for piece of mind.

I replaced my RAM, doubling from a single 64M DIMM to 128M (two 64M DIMMs) - all I noticed was a longer self test, otherwise game play seems exactly the same. Just for the record.

ebay.com link: Pinball 2000 Power Supply Revenge From Mars and

I bought the same power supply from this Ebayer in a combo with the CPU fan/heatsink. but I did not use the fan since I located a suitable replacement n my computer spare parts. If you want the CPU fan/heatsink that I didn't use just PM me, and we'll figure something out.

I touched up the decals with acylics and replaced the T molding and now mine looks much better

You don't need to remove the ballast, just bypass it and leave it in place. These LED tubes are 18", and ratchet to direct the light so you don't have to monkey around with the sockets.
http://www.amazon.com/Starlights-T8-18-18-Inch-Fluorescent-Replacement/dp/B004LFAACI

Found it on Ebay
"This is the correct color matched T-Molding for your Pinball 2000 cabinet. For the Star Wars Episode One or Revenge from Mars. You receive enough material to replace your current t-molding with some left over."
ebay.com link: itm

I did not staple the ends together. I just cut them flush with an x-acto knife and butted them together. The only odd thing was at the back corner due to the very sharp turn it wanted to come out of the groove there, so I hammered in a small nail.

Here is the photo from the original link. Looks like Marco sells what appears to be the same color, but sold by the foot so you'd need to measure it yourself.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/TM34R

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Yeah, found that out as I was installing it.

I installed the amp mod with the standard Wells-Gardner, which still had a good picture. It did improve the clarity, but immediately after install overblows the contrast and brightness, so the monitor has to be readjusted after installing. With the amp mod, you are also gaining the "head room" to be able to increase the contrast and brightness if the monitor fades a little in the future.

If it is an original supply, it's due for replacement. Definitely replace the CPU fan. Not necessary to get a spare MB, those are pricey as well.

PB2K uses a PC mainboard in BAT formfactor with Cyrix Media GX processor on it. This cyrix processor and his cyrix bridge (CX5520) are obligatory for PB2K and not replaceable by any other PC mainboard or processor! Boards with a CX5510 bridge do start the P2K game code, but cannot display the P2K video output when the game has started. Boards with a CX5530 bridge don't work either.

I've never seen an adustment for autofire on ball saves.

As far as the swithes go, if they don't register all the time the microswitches should be replaced, there is no adjustment for them.

Mine was hard wired, and when I replaced it I hard wired it exactly as it was. It really doesn't matter, it's still getting the same voltage. Perhaps the prototype did not have a fan connector during design, who knows.

DON'T TAKE THE WEENIE CART, IT'S MY FAVORITE!

I broke down and violated my own rule for RFM. I said I wasn't going to mod this game. Unfortunately, the saucers beckoned me with those 8 tiny empty holes needing to be filled with LEDs. Fools! why the empty holes?

The mod that triggers them from the playfield saucer lights was irresistible, and cheap. But it sure does take some time and effort to execute.
http://www.pinballbrasil.org/index.php?option=com_remository&Itemid=34&func=download&id=2081&chk=cfc167bb763944912de328b93222171e

I'm a big fan of LEDs but am leaving my RFM incandescent. I needed a place to put all those incans that I took out of other games when changing them to LEDs

Congrats! Put it in switch test and hit the pop skirt with a ball. Most likely, the spoon switches just needs cleaned/adjusted. Check for any broken wires on those switches too.
Good luck!

I think as long as the original monitor works and is fine, no need to rush into LCD, but if it dies that will be the time. Same thing I am doing in my house, as my incandescent bulbs die, I am replacing them with LED.

And another if needed:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fs-pinball-2000-used-monitor

WWW.pinball.center has RFM art:

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I had similar intermittent lock-ups and freezing. Tried all kinds of reseating, then replacing the RAM and did that not solve. On mine the headers for the Prism card needed to be reflowed. Have not have had a problem since.

Yes I agree...try easy solutions first. I just wanted to point out there are other possibilities

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-2000-2k-led-backglass-lighting-conversion

I had to repair mine as well. I thought it was the starter. But our was the ballast that failed

I did a similar mod to the Levi mod. It was quite a bit of work, but the saucers mirror the center ship progress lamps nicely

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_2000_Repair#Adding_Saucer_Lights_to_RFM

I would have liked a shaker but decided against it. The main reason is you need a programmed trigger to turn it on when you want it to be on, I just didn't think I wanted to trip it simultaneously off of something on the playfield like flashers, although I suppose running a relay or opto-isolator off of the martians would be ok - I just think that's too much. I would only want it to go off during video explosions...which there is just no easy way to do that I can see.

Pinball center supposedly has chromed available:

http://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/revenge-from-mars/7687/saucer-small-chrome-revenge-from-mars?c=2226

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Google makes me look smart, eh

Have you tested the caps to see if they are actually bad?...or are you assuming the caps are bad simply because of a weak/faded picture quality. All mine needed was the amp.

"Arcade monitors expect to see 5v. Unfortunately the p2000 computer only outputs around 1.5v. Thus the video amplifier is merely increasing the voltage to within the input specifications of the arcade monitor. Should be no concerns about adversely affecting the lifespan of the monitor"

I had a fair looking picture when I brought home RFM, but at the time the brightness/contrast were dialed in all the way - due to the low video signal. I had to dial back the brightness/contrast to get it in perfect after installing the amp. The amp puts it in spec for a great picture.

IMHO, the look is the best with a CRT. It's what it was designed on, The graphics were "painted" on the CRTs of the time. To try to use the same software "painting" on an LCD is analogous to the difference between painting on a canvas, a burlap bag, or a rock.

There is no question the value of LCDs to save games that otherwise couldn't be played. There is no arguing the lower heat output, lower energy consumption, cheaper cost and crisp picture of the LCD. CRTs are going the way of the dodo, and though I will probably go that way as well if mine should die, I feel we should enjoy this game as it was intended whenever possible.

Green is the classic Martian color. All other colors are for UFOS of other alien species of other worlds. Gotta be green IMO.

What are you using to trigger when the mod is off or on?

The green domes are not on all the time. As a suggestion, you might try using a solid state relay to control the 12v on off. Basically, you leave what you have installed so that the mod is powered from the service outlet, but break the 12V via the relay, which is using the flasher dome on/off signal as a trigger.

They are off during times the playfield goes dark, such as during hypno beam and mothership multiball start.

For wiring, you would just find the pair of wires going to one of the green dome lamps, take either wire and cut it, install both cut ends to the input side of the relay. Then you do the same thing with the supply wire to your mod lights, split it and wire to the outputs.

*note - in the example photo, the numbering of relay pins is flipped - the actual relay silkscreen shows pin 3&4 as control inputs. Pins 1&2 are the outputs, capable of running AC or DC up to 240VAC 5A

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There is no GI in Pinball 2000 systems, all the lamps are controlled lamps. The pulsed voltage is roughly equivalent to 6V, but since it is not continuous, your color change lamps won't work properly.
You can probably use the +12VDC on the ticket dispenser cable for powering 12 VDC rated LEDs, J117-4 is +12 and J117-8 is ground.

Not really possible, it would screw up the lamp matrix. You might try a different brand of color changing bulb, but no guarantees. I had a Cointaker fast/blink color changer in one of my F-14 Tomcat inserts and it did work.

The website for LEDOCD does not show a model available for P2K games.

Mine does not auto-plunge on saves.

Yeah, It would have made more sense if the skill shot was a Mulligan, but that goes away so why not autoplunge? Just the way I would have had it.

I also have mine set to no ball search and it still autoplunges a waiting ball after a while. Frustrating if you walk away to use the toilet, door example.

I'm a fan of LEDs for the benefits of reducing current consumption and heat, except that I prefer to keep older games incandescent to keep the classic look. On RFM, LEDs just have too many negatives for my tastes. They interfere with the monitor image and they don't allow the lamp diagnostics to work as they should, and don't operate well with dimming effects. I'd seriously give some thought as to going back to incandescent, as this game really isn't designed to be bright, it's a high contrast dark game. Consider minor mods such as LEDing the saucers (which I did) or Lee's Stroke of Luck mod instead of populating the whole game with LEDs. Just my opinion.

You can measure the supply voltages to check the PSU. You seem to have a definite vibration related failure, and the fans running seem to at least mean you have some power. I'd be looking for things loose (reseat prism card, wiggle connectors, tap/rap on the CPU enclosure. I'd try to use these methods of checking to isolate what portion of the game is sensitive to vibration - at least determine if it is somewhere in the backbox or in the cabinet, if possible.

Welcome to the best club on Pinside!

1. The target backing foam might be missing/compressed. Replacing it should help keep the balls low.
2. There is some type of screw slots to loosen and adjust the ramp. I had to use a dremel to grind the edge of the slots a little deeper, but I think because it might have been an aftermarket replacement ramp.
3. not sure about this, I'd have to open up the game and look
4. I've never had this problem. The up/down post assembly should have a return spring on the coil, it could be compressed or worn and need to be replaced.

It should be ACTIVATED charcoal. Often used to remove odors and gases from aquarium s or cat litter.

Bumping up ram will not remove any lag, all it does is increase the boot time, at least that is all it did for me. Seen lots of people come to the same conclusion

leave the system the way it is. you will gain nothing by changing or upgrading the memory. unless it's defective... let it be
-Ed12

This is one that I personally struggled with. For one, it's a very cool diagnostic feature that when using standard bulbs that you get a map that shows where bulbs have failed. You lose that historical feature that was cutting edge for it's time when you change to LEDs. Plus, the dimming and gradual face effects are lost. I absolutely love LEDs in a lot of games, but there are a few titles that demand to remain incandescent, this is one of them.

F103 is a solenoid fuse, so Q51, or any drive transistor, or another component associated with a drive transistor could be a problem. There's​ no efficient way to diagnose this and repair it properly without measurement tools like a DMM or ocilloscope, anything else is guesswork.

Make sure your spots have diodes on them, or they will screw up the lamp matrix.

When the power to a coil is shutoff, the collapsing magnetic field creates a surge of power upstream through the circuit. This is what destroys driving transistors (and sometimes other components) in a solid state game when the coils do not have a functional diode in the circuit to shunt the backwards surge away safely.

Sometimes this diode is installed across the coils terminals, but it doesn't have to live there, sometime it is located on a separate diode board elsewhere. When it doubt, you can simply buy a coil with an attached diode or add one to the coil. It will not hurt the system to have an additional protection diode there. Just make sure the diode is reversed biased (cathode, or striped side facing positive supply voltage) If you install a coil diode incorrectly with the anode on the power side, you will find out very quickly how good a diode conducts in the forward bias direction as it immediately shorts your power supply to ground and takes out your fuse.

The MOSFET drive transistors have freewheel protection diodes, in addition to inductive protection diodes on each coil

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Sometimes it's best when working fine to follow the old saying "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

It's my desert island pin. If I am on a deserted island and there is only one outlet, I take RFM .

The foam is the best solution here, but instead of a single piece bisecting the card perpendicular to it, use about 3 pieces and don't use very weak foam - the original stuff usually isn't doing anything at all and it's not putting any pressure on the card. I use a very dense black foam that is also the same stuff I use for replacing the beer seal on games. Don't forget to screw the Prism cards bracket on tight.

Are you sure you have the correct size rubber?

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Another soul introduced to the dark side as a first time pin owner, my friend and colleague Marty. Thanks to Andrew annex
P.s. he does it right by putting the game in his kitchen!

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Based on? Did you measure it with a DMM/Voltmeter?

Sounds like it could be the card itself based on this. On mine, the connectors developed small cracks in the traces between the card sandwich. The card becomes fragile with age, the constant vibration and moving the card around has probably damaged it in some fashion. If you don't find any obvious damage, perhaps reflowing the pins may help. Just be very careful, especially if you pry the sandwich apart. You could try replacing the Prism card with a known good one.

OK, I was typing that reply when this popped up. Chances are, if you had one bad cap that probably more are faulty. They don't have to visually obvious. Others are probably bad as well that look perfectly fine. But that said, if it is working well and stable - I'd probably leave well enough alone...and start working on a backup plan should it crap out again. I have a Pinbox ready to go in storage, myself.

I am also with the camp that original is good. Not just the mobo, but also I like the CRT that is working well, the incandescent bulbs. But, there are also a lot of benefits to replacing with a Nucore/Pinbox. The only thing that is keeping me from that upgrade is that my original is stable. When it flakes out, I am not spending an evening replacing caps - in goes the Pinbox. That's just my preference.

Have you tested or substituted the monitor to make sure it is not the problem?

Check the internal CPU fan. You said you heard the fan working but there is more than one. Reseat Prism card as suggested. Get a meter and check DC voltages from supply, and check motherboard for bulging caps.

You should feel bad. I hope you feel bad every time you play that game.

Enter switch test and make sure the shooter lane switch is being activated by the ball when the ball is at rest in the shooter lane.
Check the settings for ball search or timed plunger (depends on software installed) in the adjustments menu.

The CRT probably needs recapped, or if the focus adjustment pot isn't doing anything at all it could be the pot itself. Fiddling with the focusing controls will almost certainly upset the convergence and make the image even worse. Any improvement that you do manage to make will not last long, since the failing components will continue to degrade. Personally I don't care for spending the money and time on old CRTs, as well as how scary and dangerous they are to work on. If it were me, I would try adding in the amplifier mod, it's cheap (ultimarc - $23) I know that improved my color dramatically, I'm just not certain about the focus part. Then I'd opt for replacement/LCD if that didn't do it.

I think my friends is DIY'd in with a wood frame (pain in the ass, but cheap)

Manufactured frame you can buy
http://lockwhenlit.com/products.htm

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I added RAM to mine and it didn't help at all. All it does is make the self test longer. Pinbox isn't choppy....but I can't bring myself to replace the original computer or CRT

Pinbot, Cue Ball Wizard, RFM...you're a pinballer with good taste
Welcome

I learned that one the hard way too. I said "You've got to be kidding". It must have been easier to build that way. Replaced them with a discreet wired wedge base socket.

P2K computers are not cheap, but you can find a used computer for less than $100 and setup Pinbox on it. That's my backup sitting on a shelf. I just need a proper size LCD monitor in case the CRT dies.

Sounds like you are talking about my friends giant collection of reel to reel tape recorders.

In section 3 of the repair guide there is a list of motherboard connections by location, and a physical motherboard diagram.
http://www.pinballsupernova.com/Williams%20Repair%20Guide/Pinball%202000%20Repair%20.pdf

No. There's nothing really to trigger it on since it is all a part of the audio stream. I happen to like the audio knock, it's nice an' loud. "Extra ball! YEE HA!

Correction. This is the RFM club. For P2000 club you need to add the 12 posts of the SWEP1 club. hehe
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/swep1-loyal-order-of-the-gungans-club

Yes, sandwiched between the Prism PCI card and its daughterboard. Word of caution, be extremely gently when prying these cards apart! Seen many with the connectors ripped off.

The battery on the mobo holds the CMOS mem, so you'll lose CPU date/time....probably will still boot, I've never actually experienced it, but it is just a PC- I don't think there are any special settings in there that are required to make it run. The battery on the Prism would be holding the game settings, so likely everything would default, you'd lose things like the high scores, freeplay settings, # balls etc.... so that's how you know which battery has failed.

Make sure you go back and fine tune the monitors brightness/contrast after installing the video amp. Just in case you didn't. It's one thing to have a bright picture, but it can be a bit too much and you can knock it back a little if you play with the lights off.

I think the stock sound is incredible and see no need to ever upgrade it. Blows me away every time I play it.

You could have installed a defective or inferior quality supply.

Definitely suspect, as it was the last thing touched...at least check the DC power rails and measure the AC ripple, to help rule out a problem there. It's always a good idea to check a PSU before installing it in a game.
Since it's never worked with the new supply, it can't be completely ruled out at this stage.

Check your cables thoroughly as well, you've had to unplug stuff and might have a poor connection in the cabling. Otherwise, it could be purely coincidental.

"He said discharge...hehehe"

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I never use the holes for flipper alignment. I always line up the flipper top edges with the inlane rails with a straight edge, for a perfect flow from rail to flipper with no bounce.

Standard infra red optos, I believe. Compare them to the ones in the trough.

Go through the basics. Make sure both CPU fan and power supply fans are running flawlessly. Check voltages on the power supply. If it is the original, chances are it needs replaced. I've done all of that and more, and once in a blue moon, rarely, if the game has not been played in a long time it will require a second boot up. I've got basically all original and CRT, so chalk it up to age. I also have a pinbox sitting in storage.

What are you plugging into? Since the game is setup to run the program off the Prism, I would assume that any "standard" jacks may not be working, they would need to be controlled with a standard operating system and drivers. If you went to attach your headphones directly to the amplifier output to the speakers, your headphones may have a different impedence, perhaps.

Not likely used in P2K.

This is the greatest machine on the planet. There is no need to update to software above v1.5, or change to Nucore, Pinbox, or any other substitute unless it is broken. Enjoy killing those martians!