(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"

By kjm8888

5 years ago

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4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #2093 Wells Gardner K700 troubleshooting flow chart Posted by snakesnsparklers (1 year ago)

Post #2187 Links to updating the game code using windows 7 Posted by ForceFlow (1 year ago)

Post #2295 Adding the missing slingshot spotlights Posted by Lhyrgoif (12 months ago)

Post #2312 Version 2.0 custom code announcement Posted by applejuice (11 months ago)

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#765 4 years ago

It's been a long search, finally in the club! I have a question: Has anyone ever had the game lockup while viewing diagnostics menu? I was browsing through some stuff there and when I tried to view current volume setting in the audio diagnostics, not a single button would respond - coin door, cabinet, nothing - had to power down to restart.


#766 4 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

It's been a long search, finally in the club! I have a question: Has anyone ever had the game lockup while viewing diagnostics menu? I was browsing through some stuff there and when I tried to view current volume setting in the audio diagnostics, not a single button would respond - coin door, cabinet, nothing - had to power down to restart.

Did the same thing trying to view "grand champion" score in the menu. Software version issue?

#768 4 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Wayout, it could be an issue with the ROMs on the Prism card. Maybe they need to be reseated? It could also be bad RAM (caused the same problems on my wife's PC).

OK. Pin 2K is just foreign, new territory to explore. I tried getting into the power saver adjustment and the tilt warning adjustment and same thing, not a single button could take me out of it except the power switch, and I know all the coin door switches work for other features. Really strange.

Also came up with a new problem I hadn't notice because the "all tests" passes, and all lamps pass. When testing single lamps, in some columns and rows are getting more than one lamp to illuminate. The logic doesn't appear to sense this anomaly. I haven't located the root cause.

#776 4 years ago

So what am I looking for after getting the 9 modes? I thought it was supposed to enter the "Attack mars" final sequence, but it cleared all the mode achievement lamps and went back to Alien Abduction. Seems I missed something.

#778 4 years ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

You didn't earn enough saucer lights.

So then it clears everything you've accomplished and you need to start over?

#780 4 years ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

No, you keep your saucer lights. You'll have to get through the modes again if you want to start Attack Mars.
I think you also need to get Mothership Multiball before you can start Attack Mars. That's not too hard... you just have to do fairly well on the Bonus Wave multiballs to get that started.

OK. So, "easier" if you can get it on the first pass. I drained right after I went back to Alien Abduction on the last ball. It would have been quite a bit of play to get through all the modes again from that point. Thanks for the help.

#781 4 years ago

Thanks Mattosborn


#784 4 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Arg... well we got a problem.
In the past, I had an issue where I had to force start the computer. Then the issue grew to start reseating the ram. Now, regardless what I do, re-seating the ram the machine boots, CPU fan, power supply, but no signal on the LCD.

Game runs, but no monitor "No signal"

Tried replacing the monitor cable?

2 weeks later
#800 3 years ago

On another thread:

Quoted from LOTR_breath:

Not sure if RFM follows AFM on rules, but on AFM when you complete the inlanes/outlanes 10 times(same as 10 SOL's) it lights extra ball. Also for killing the 2nd saucer, 10 hits to the 3 bank during Strobe MB, awarded during a decent round of the Video Mode, and as a mystery award from SOL.

#806 3 years ago
Quoted from Ahoernchen:

Extra Ball at 20 collected Missiles (via ramps or loops)

This can be changed in the feature adjustments as well.

1 month later
#837 3 years ago
Quoted from osudrummer:

No SWEP1 club I wanted to check to see if anyone knows the latest available LED tube I can use to replace the fluorescent tube. Also should I be proactive and replace my power supply, fan, etc or wait until something goes wrong? Mine has 1,000 plays and was HUO. Unfortunately I have a Ducksan monitor so not sure I will try to tackle the vidamp.
Any suggestions appreciated.

At least replace the CPU fan, second replace that power supply. When these items fail, they can cause damage to other components. It's all of about $50 and an hour to improve reliability and for piece of mind.

#838 3 years ago

I replaced my RAM, doubling from a single 64M DIMM to 128M (two 64M DIMMs) - all I noticed was a longer self test, otherwise game play seems exactly the same. Just for the record.

#840 3 years ago
Quoted from osudrummer:

Okay, which ones do you recommend?

ebay.com link » Pinball 2000 Power Supply Revenge From Mars And

I bought the same power supply from this Ebayer in a combo with the CPU fan/heatsink. but I did not use the fan since I located a suitable replacement n my computer spare parts. If you want the CPU fan/heatsink that I didn't use just PM me, and we'll figure something out.

1 week later
#846 3 years ago
Quoted from DanTheGlassMan:

Well im in guys. Just bought my rfm today. Grail pin for me. I love it! The cabinet on mine is rough but thats cool with me. Players games tend to be a little less expensive

I touched up the decals with acylics and replaced the T molding and now mine looks much better

#855 3 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Why would you need to mod the ballast, I thought these LED tubes are compatible. I also want to do this for my coin-op dartboard. Do you just remove the ballast and hook it up to 12v?

You don't need to remove the ballast, just bypass it and leave it in place. These LED tubes are 18", and ratchet to direct the light so you don't have to monkey around with the sockets.
amazon.com link »

#863 3 years ago

Found it on Ebay
"This is the correct color matched T-Molding for your Pinball 2000 cabinet. For the Star Wars Episode One or Revenge from Mars. You receive enough material to replace your current t-molding with some left over."
ebay.com link

I did not staple the ends together. I just cut them flush with an x-acto knife and butted them together. The only odd thing was at the back corner due to the very sharp turn it wanted to come out of the groove there, so I hammered in a small nail.

#865 3 years ago
Quoted from tonycip:

darn the ebay link is not working . post pulled . so what is the correct color?

Here is the photo from the original link. Looks like Marco sells what appears to be the same color, but sold by the foot so you'd need to measure it yourself.


#867 3 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

thanks. when installing t-molding, I found that for the "tight" inside and outside corners, you need to notch out sections of the spine (pie-fashion)

Yeah, found that out as I was installing it.

2 weeks later
#880 3 years ago
Quoted from awarner:

I had the amp in my game before I converted to LCD and it really added a lot of detail to the picture. I'd highly recommend if you are planning to stay stock with a CRT.

I installed the amp mod with the standard Wells-Gardner, which still had a good picture. It did improve the clarity, but immediately after install overblows the contrast and brightness, so the monitor has to be readjusted after installing. With the amp mod, you are also gaining the "head room" to be able to increase the contrast and brightness if the monitor fades a little in the future.

3 weeks later
#890 3 years ago
Quoted from jyeakley:

Just joined the club. Got a beautiful RFM (HUO) from a really nice gentlemen in Indiana. Great game and the best part is that my family enjoys it as well!
I have been browsing this thread from the beginning and just ordered a new cpu fan. Is it worth ordering a power supply or motherboard? How often do these things fail? It has an amplifier on the Wells monitor and looks beautiful, so I am going to leave that alone for now.

If it is an original supply, it's due for replacement. Definitely replace the CPU fan. Not necessary to get a spare MB, those are pricey as well.

#901 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

What?? Won't any Socket 7 MB with an ISA lot work?

PB2K uses a PC mainboard in BAT formfactor with Cyrix Media GX processor on it. This cyrix processor and his cyrix bridge (CX5520) are obligatory for PB2K and not replaceable by any other PC mainboard or processor! Boards with a CX5510 bridge do start the P2K game code, but cannot display the P2K video output when the game has started. Boards with a CX5530 bridge don't work either.

#907 3 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

Asking the after holiday crowd.

I've never seen an adustment for autofire on ball saves.

As far as the swithes go, if they don't register all the time the microswitches should be replaced, there is no adjustment for them.

#912 3 years ago
Quoted from jyeakley:

I went ahead and replaced the fan today. One question. The old fan was hard wired directly into one of the connectors. The new fan has the proper connector to hook into the motherboard cpu fan power at J5, which is where I hooked it in. Anyone see anything wrong with this? Why would they hard wire the original and not use the connection on the motherboard?

Mine was hard wired, and when I replaced it I hard wired it exactly as it was. It really doesn't matter, it's still getting the same voltage. Perhaps the prototype did not have a fan connector during design, who knows.

#927 3 years ago


1 week later
#934 3 years ago

I broke down and violated my own rule for RFM. I said I wasn't going to mod this game. Unfortunately, the saucers beckoned me with those 8 tiny empty holes needing to be filled with LEDs. Fools! why the empty holes?

The mod that triggers them from the playfield saucer lights was irresistible, and cheap. But it sure does take some time and effort to execute.

#941 3 years ago
Quoted from awarner:

Probably best to avoid LEDs altogether...

I'm a big fan of LEDs but am leaving my RFM incandescent. I needed a place to put all those incans that I took out of other games when changing them to LEDs

1 week later
#945 3 years ago
Quoted from blowback1976:

Have two pops not working, but fire in test

Congrats! Put it in switch test and hit the pop skirt with a ball. Most likely, the spoon switches just needs cleaned/adjusted. Check for any broken wires on those switches too.
Good luck!

1 week later
#956 3 years ago

I think as long as the original monitor works and is fine, no need to rush into LCD, but if it dies that will be the time. Same thing I am doing in my house, as my incandescent bulbs die, I am replacing them with LED.

#986 3 years ago

WWW.pinball.center has RFM art:


3 weeks later
#1021 3 years ago
Quoted from lurch:

In my experience, this is a RAM issue.

I had similar intermittent lock-ups and freezing. Tried all kinds of reseating, then replacing the RAM and did that not solve. On mine the headers for the Prism card needed to be reflowed. Have not have had a problem since.

#1024 3 years ago
Quoted from lurch:

Could be the issue. But if i were him, id start with the cheap/easy solution first. The RAM is like $20, and 2 minutes to swap out. If no dice there, then he can move on to the prism card. As an afterthought have you looked at the caps on the motherboard? If any of them are swollen or popped, it could explain it. Normally the system wont even boot with bad caps, but each case is slightly different.
Picture here of where the caps are: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:Mediagxboard.jpg

Yes I agree...try easy solutions first. I just wanted to point out there are other possibilities

3 months later
#1093 3 years ago
Quoted from hAbO:

I'm surprised no one has done a back box led lighting mod for Pin2k games. Mmmm...


#1095 3 years ago
Quoted from altan:

Love cheap repairs. Fluorescent tube went out. Replaced with new 99 center starter from Marco (was placing an order anyway). 2 minute fix including opening the back box and looking for the old starter.

I had to repair mine as well. I thought it was the starter. But our was the ballast that failed

#1097 3 years ago

I did a similar mod to the Levi mod. It was quite a bit of work, but the saucers mirror the center ship progress lamps nicely


3 weeks later
#1139 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Not that I've heard about.

I would have liked a shaker but decided against it. The main reason is you need a programmed trigger to turn it on when you want it to be on, I just didn't think I wanted to trip it simultaneously off of something on the playfield like flashers, although I suppose running a relay or opto-isolator off of the martians would be ok - I just think that's too much. I would only want it to go off during video explosions...which there is just no easy way to do that I can see.

#1167 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Hey thanks for the lead 440, that's just what I was looking for. I've got a email to them asking if the green dome comes with it. That chrome will dress it up real nice.

Google makes me look smart, eh

#1189 3 years ago
Quoted from Badamack:

A question about video amps:
Does anyone have evidence that a video amp could or could not 'burn up' a crt? I've heard some concern about the way they 'overdrive' the monitor...
I'm probably better off having the caps serviced, but, it's cheaper to do the video amp. And I've just read so many rave reviews here about how great the video amp 'mod' is...

Have you tested the caps to see if they are actually bad?...or are you assuming the caps are bad simply because of a weak/faded picture quality. All mine needed was the amp.

"Arcade monitors expect to see 5v. Unfortunately the p2000 computer only outputs around 1.5v. Thus the video amplifier is merely increasing the voltage to within the input specifications of the arcade monitor. Should be no concerns about adversely affecting the lifespan of the monitor"

I had a fair looking picture when I brought home RFM, but at the time the brightness/contrast were dialed in all the way - due to the low video signal. I had to dial back the brightness/contrast to get it in perfect after installing the amp. The amp puts it in spec for a great picture.

#1198 3 years ago

IMHO, the look is the best with a CRT. It's what it was designed on, The graphics were "painted" on the CRTs of the time. To try to use the same software "painting" on an LCD is analogous to the difference between painting on a canvas, a burlap bag, or a rock.

There is no question the value of LCDs to save games that otherwise couldn't be played. There is no arguing the lower heat output, lower energy consumption, cheaper cost and crisp picture of the LCD. CRTs are going the way of the dodo, and though I will probably go that way as well if mine should die, I feel we should enjoy this game as it was intended whenever possible.

1 week later
#1232 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Got my chrome saucers from Pinballcenter today, the chrome looks perfect but there's a problem. The green domes that came with them are not glued in. Now I can't decide if I should put the green in or change the color. All I have now are one yellow and one white. Decisions decisions.

Green is the classic Martian color. All other colors are for UFOS of other alien species of other worlds. Gotta be green IMO.

1 week later
#1256 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Here's my latest mod for the game. I lit up the underside of the new chrome saucers I got with 1, 30cm red led strip each. Turned out really nice and dresses up those 2 areas well. It makes the ships look like they have their engines on. It's much brighter and richer in color then my camera shows.

What are you using to trigger when the mod is off or on?

#1258 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

They are always on like the green domes. I used a 110 to 12v converter and plugged it in to the service outlet.

The green domes are not on all the time. As a suggestion, you might try using a solid state relay to control the 12v on off. Basically, you leave what you have installed so that the mod is powered from the service outlet, but break the 12V via the relay, which is using the flasher dome on/off signal as a trigger.

#1261 3 years ago

They are off during times the playfield goes dark, such as during hypno beam and mothership multiball start.

For wiring, you would just find the pair of wires going to one of the green dome lamps, take either wire and cut it, install both cut ends to the input side of the relay. Then you do the same thing with the supply wire to your mod lights, split it and wire to the outputs.

*note - in the example photo, the numbering of relay pins is flipped - the actual relay silkscreen shows pin 3&4 as control inputs. Pins 1&2 are the outputs, capable of running AC or DC up to 240VAC 5A

NTE-RS5-1D5-21 (resized).jpg

cpc1016n_ssr (resized).png

1 month later
#1288 3 years ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

Trying to do a few small things but I'm stuck.
Replaced the ufo green caps with clear ones. Trying to put slow color change leds under them. However, once in they don't change. Tested them in other games and they still work but in rfm they just stay red.
The other thing I'm trying to do is add a light strip on the apron. 6v is not bright enough to tap into the gi. Is there anything else underneath at a higher voltage I can attach alligator clips to?

There is no GI in Pinball 2000 systems, all the lamps are controlled lamps. The pulsed voltage is roughly equivalent to 6V, but since it is not continuous, your color change lamps won't work properly.
You can probably use the +12VDC on the ticket dispenser cable for powering 12 VDC rated LEDs, J117-4 is +12 and J117-8 is ground.

#1291 3 years ago
Quoted from ryandimx:

Dang. Anyway to get around that at all? Resistors or something?

Not really possible, it would screw up the lamp matrix. You might try a different brand of color changing bulb, but no guarantees. I had a Cointaker fast/blink color changer in one of my F-14 Tomcat inserts and it did work.

#1292 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Not sure if LED OCD would help this situation... might be worth a look.

The website for LEDOCD does not show a model available for P2K games.

2 months later
#1308 2 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Hello fellow RFM'ers. I have a question about the ball save feature - Does yours auto-plunge a saved ball? Mine does not. I have replaced the shooter lane switch and it tests good. The game auto-plunges saved balls during multi-ball but not for a save at the beginning of each ball. My RFM has the latest v1.6 firmware and the ball save feature is turned on.

Mine does not auto-plunge on saves.

#1310 2 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Thank you for the answers. I guess that's how it is then!

Yeah, It would have made more sense if the skill shot was a Mulligan, but that goes away so why not autoplunge? Just the way I would have had it.

I also have mine set to no ball search and it still autoplunges a waiting ball after a while. Frustrating if you walk away to use the toilet, door example.

2 weeks later
#1337 2 years ago
Quoted from ypurchn:

Thoughts on going back to incandescent? I've seen a lot of posts (mostly older) about keeping in incandescent for the dimming effects.

I'm a fan of LEDs for the benefits of reducing current consumption and heat, except that I prefer to keep older games incandescent to keep the classic look. On RFM, LEDs just have too many negatives for my tastes. They interfere with the monitor image and they don't allow the lamp diagnostics to work as they should, and don't operate well with dimming effects. I'd seriously give some thought as to going back to incandescent, as this game really isn't designed to be bright, it's a high contrast dark game. Consider minor mods such as LEDing the saucers (which I did) or Lee's Stroke of Luck mod instead of populating the whole game with LEDs. Just my opinion.

1 week later
#1352 2 years ago

You can measure the supply voltages to check the PSU. You seem to have a definite vibration related failure, and the fans running seem to at least mean you have some power. I'd be looking for things loose (reseat prism card, wiggle connectors, tap/rap on the CPU enclosure. I'd try to use these methods of checking to isolate what portion of the game is sensitive to vibration - at least determine if it is somewhere in the backbox or in the cabinet, if possible.

#1357 2 years ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

Just joined the club!
This pin is so much fun! The callouts crack me up every time and it's super cheesy which I love!
I've got the machine tuned up pretty good but there are a few questions I have.
1. I'm getting crazy airballs hitting the centre targets, anyway to fix this up?
2. My centre ramp flap doesn't sit flush with the playfield, any adjustment I can do to make it fit a little tighter?
3. 1/5 times the ball is bouncing back out of the centre ball trap i've seen people mention foam or padding being used to stop this, where should the foam go, i had a look at mine and there is no foam. What type of foam is best?
4. The pop pin which captures the ball during the cut scenes doesn't drop on it's own, typically needs a flip of a flipper and it drops and releases the ball, is this how it is meant to be? I played one on location and it had the same behaviour.
Cliffy protector for the SOL hole is on its way, mine is a little chewed up, other than that the play field is in awesome shape!

Welcome to the best club on Pinside!

1. The target backing foam might be missing/compressed. Replacing it should help keep the balls low.
2. There is some type of screw slots to loosen and adjust the ramp. I had to use a dremel to grind the edge of the slots a little deeper, but I think because it might have been an aftermarket replacement ramp.
3. not sure about this, I'd have to open up the game and look
4. I've never had this problem. The up/down post assembly should have a return spring on the coil, it could be compressed or worn and need to be replaced.

3 weeks later
#1440 2 years ago
Quoted from maffewl:

I've done this with refrigerators that had smells (used to own rental homes). Works like a charm. You can get charcoal from a pet store.

It should be ACTIVATED charcoal. Often used to remove odors and gases from aquarium s or cat litter.

1 month later
#1492 2 years ago

Bumping up ram will not remove any lag, all it does is increase the boot time, at least that is all it did for me. Seen lots of people come to the same conclusion

Quoted from cranie:

I had the same issue and upgraded the memory and CPU. It did NOT correct the issue.

leave the system the way it is. you will gain nothing by changing or upgrading the memory. unless it's defective... let it be

#1504 2 years ago

This is one that I personally struggled with. For one, it's a very cool diagnostic feature that when using standard bulbs that you get a map that shows where bulbs have failed. You lose that historical feature that was cutting edge for it's time when you change to LEDs. Plus, the dimming and gradual face effects are lost. I absolutely love LEDs in a lot of games, but there are a few titles that demand to remain incandescent, this is one of them.

#1506 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Need some help with a friend's game - he blew fuse F103 and then noticed the trough eject coil was stinky and burnt looking. He installed a new coil and fuse, powered the game on while watching it from underneath to make sure the new coil wouldn't lock on due to a bad transistor, but as soon as he turned the game on F103 blew again and no coil activity at all. So I'm thinking there is a short somewhere - is the likely culprit the drive transistor Q51? He doesn't have a multimeter to test right now.

F103 is a solenoid fuse, so Q51, or any drive transistor, or another component associated with a drive transistor could be a problem. There's​ no efficient way to diagnose this and repair it properly without measurement tools like a DMM or ocilloscope, anything else is guesswork.

1 week later
#1534 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Thank you. Forgive my comment about not hooking them up to the lamp matrix then!

Make sure your spots have diodes on them, or they will screw up the lamp matrix.

#1542 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Coil diodes are required in Pinball 2000, correct? I am seeing some conflicting info on this.
If coil diodes are required and a coil is installed without the diode, what would the effect be? My friend has a coil that locks on when the game starts. I am thinking the drive transistor needs to be replaced but wonder what else could have happened if he ran a coil without diode when there should be one.

When the power to a coil is shutoff, the collapsing magnetic field creates a surge of power upstream through the circuit. This is what destroys driving transistors (and sometimes other components) in a solid state game when the coils do not have a functional diode in the circuit to shunt the backwards surge away safely.

Sometimes this diode is installed across the coils terminals, but it doesn't have to live there, sometime it is located on a separate diode board elsewhere. When it doubt, you can simply buy a coil with an attached diode or add one to the coil. It will not hurt the system to have an additional protection diode there. Just make sure the diode is reversed biased (cathode, or striped side facing positive supply voltage) If you install a coil diode incorrectly with the anode on the power side, you will find out very quickly how good a diode conducts in the forward bias direction as it immediately shorts your power supply to ground and takes out your fuse.

#1550 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Need a schematic to be certain but it looks to me visually like diodes are on board and therefore wouldn't be needed on coil. What I'm seeing from your photo is a neat row of diodes right along side the drivers.
I will say that every single one of my coils on my RFM does have dioes on coil though.

The MOSFET drive transistors have freewheel protection diodes, in addition to inductive protection diodes on each coil

untitled (resized).JPG

diode35 (resized).png

#1559 2 years ago
Quoted from mandrade1:

Another thing that call my attention my power board drive has an "jumper wire" on the solder side, have no idea why it´s there, but everything works fine, maybe will do a re-cap on that board too, as a maintence so it can do another 18 years, will see !
Thanks Marcos

Sometimes it's best when working fine to follow the old saying "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

#1576 2 years ago

It's my desert island pin. If I am on a deserted island and there is only one outlet, I take RFM .

1 week later
#1586 2 years ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

Quick question..
Does anyone have a solution to keep the Prism Card in its place, mine isn't dislodging but it is wriggling out enough it causes the game to reset until I re-seat the card.
Mine is missing what looks like was a chunk of foam on the PC case lid, I can replace that but does someone have a better solution?

The foam is the best solution here, but instead of a single piece bisecting the card perpendicular to it, use about 3 pieces and don't use very weak foam - the original stuff usually isn't doing anything at all and it's not putting any pressure on the card. I use a very dense black foam that is also the same stuff I use for replacing the beer seal on games. Don't forget to screw the Prism cards bracket on tight.

#1590 2 years ago

Are you sure you have the correct size rubber?

rfmplasticfixed2 (resized).jpg

3 months later
#1639 2 years ago

Another soul introduced to the dark side as a first time pin owner, my friend and colleague Marty. Thanks to Andrew annex
P.s. he does it right by putting the game in his kitchen!

IMG_20170907_200115262 (resized).jpg

3 weeks later
#1654 2 years ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

The power supply seems fine

Based on? Did you measure it with a DMM/Voltmeter?

Quoted from iEatHands:

I'd just reseat the PRISM card and it'd be good again.. Now it happens about 2-3 games in everytime.
I've tried both PCI slots too.

Sounds like it could be the card itself based on this. On mine, the connectors developed small cracks in the traces between the card sandwich. The card becomes fragile with age, the constant vibration and moving the card around has probably damaged it in some fashion. If you don't find any obvious damage, perhaps reflowing the pins may help. Just be very careful, especially if you pry the sandwich apart. You could try replacing the Prism card with a known good one.

#1655 2 years ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

I got it "working" again. One of the caps near the CPU had some black stuff on the top. Probably the culprit eh.. Is that pretty typical?

OK, I was typing that reply when this popped up. Chances are, if you had one bad cap that probably more are faulty. They don't have to visually obvious. Others are probably bad as well that look perfectly fine. But that said, if it is working well and stable - I'd probably leave well enough alone...and start working on a backup plan should it crap out again. I have a Pinbox ready to go in storage, myself.

#1661 2 years ago

I am also with the camp that original is good. Not just the mobo, but also I like the CRT that is working well, the incandescent bulbs. But, there are also a lot of benefits to replacing with a Nucore/Pinbox. The only thing that is keeping me from that upgrade is that my original is stable. When it flakes out, I am not spending an evening replacing caps - in goes the Pinbox. That's just my preference.

3 weeks later
#1675 2 years ago

Have you tested or substituted the monitor to make sure it is not the problem?

2 months later
#1779 1 year ago

Check the internal CPU fan. You said you heard the fan working but there is more than one. Reseat Prism card as suggested. Get a meter and check DC voltages from supply, and check motherboard for bulging caps.

#1787 1 year ago
Quoted from BigTuna:

In case anyone is looking for one I have my RFM for sale or trade. Let me know if you're interested.

Quoted from billsfanmd:

Anyone selling/trading RFM near Md/PA/Va? Have a beautiful SWE1 looks HUO and plays perfect. Looking to swap Pin 2k games.

Quoted from robertg130:

Sold mine today,Want it back

2 weeks later
#1804 1 year ago
Quoted from mtdouble:

I totally reneged on my word today. Buyer was going to drive over tomorrow to pickup RFM and I couldn’t do it. I was having major sellers remorse, feel bad and probably left a bad impression but something about this game is really special!

You should feel bad. I hope you feel bad every time you play that game.

#1820 1 year ago
Quoted from embryon:

Ever since moving house, my RFM seems to go into a ball search mode if I don't plunge the ball for awhile. Do not know what could be causing this. Previously I could leave a ball in the shooter lane, have dinner and come back to complete the game. Now ball searches and I think the ball will be automatically plunged if I delay plunging myself. Any ideas guys

Enter switch test and make sure the shooter lane switch is being activated by the ball when the ball is at rest in the shooter lane.
Check the settings for ball search or timed plunger (depends on software installed) in the adjustments menu.

#1821 1 year ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Second rfm at home, came with an additional playfield and decals. I'll try to have a beauty at the end. My 1st is running pinbox with a dell lcd, this second one has a working original computer but crt displays a ultra blurry picture with faded colors.
Focus doesn't fix that. What guru's are suggesting ?

The CRT probably needs recapped, or if the focus adjustment pot isn't doing anything at all it could be the pot itself. Fiddling with the focusing controls will almost certainly upset the convergence and make the image even worse. Any improvement that you do manage to make will not last long, since the failing components will continue to degrade. Personally I don't care for spending the money and time on old CRTs, as well as how scary and dangerous they are to work on. If it were me, I would try adding in the amplifier mod, it's cheap (ultimarc - $23) I know that improved my color dramatically, I'm just not certain about the focus part. Then I'd opt for replacement/LCD if that didn't do it.

#1835 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

You can make any standard resolution 19" monitor work in the game. You just need to transplant it into the funky frame.

I think my friends is DIY'd in with a wood frame (pain in the ass, but cheap)

Manufactured frame you can buy

lcDmount (resized).jpg

#1838 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

I would never put an LCD in an RFM.

#1841 1 year ago
Quoted from adii:

I really dig the CRT. I was never one to put LCD screens in my arcade games either. I need me some scan lines.
Anyone add some RAM to the motherboard? It’s a bit choppy at times and I’m wondering if that would help.

I added RAM to mine and it didn't help at all. All it does is make the self test longer. Pinbox isn't choppy....but I can't bring myself to replace the original computer or CRT

#1856 1 year ago
Quoted from APOLLO_13:

Hi all, new to the club... picked up an RFM about a week and a half ago...

Pinbot, Cue Ball Wizard, RFM...you're a pinballer with good taste

#1883 1 year ago
Quoted from APOLLO_13:

How do you guys change out your pop bumper skirts?
The one without the light was easy lol
They used a metal strip for the bulb sockets, stapled to the pf... you can't have to take staples out to change the skirts do you?
» YouTube video
found this video on youtube... I guess you do... damn
well... now I'm breaking more sh*t than I'm fixing...

I learned that one the hard way too. I said "You've got to be kidding". It must have been easier to build that way. Replaced them with a discreet wired wedge base socket.

1 month later
#1953 1 year ago
Quoted from acitti:

I would not mind putting in a conversion card and switching to a LCD while still using the original hardware (as long as it stays working).
The thing that worries me most is if my current computer dies, there are not many replacements available and the ones that are available are not cheap. .

P2K computers are not cheap, but you can find a used computer for less than $100 and setup Pinbox on it. That's my backup sitting on a shelf. I just need a proper size LCD monitor in case the CRT dies.

#1958 1 year ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

I understand the idea of keeping these valuable crt for the sake of history.
But at the end, that's mostly an unworking heavy and fragile stuff that stays forever in some basement..

Sounds like you are talking about my friends giant collection of reel to reel tape recorders.

1 month later
#1976 1 year ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

some help is needed there
i want to get the original computer back in my RFM but all ribbons were disconnected from the motherboard and i want to be 100% sure of the connectivity.
Would anyone have pictures of how each connector fits on the motherboard ?

In section 3 of the repair guide there is a list of motherboard connections by location, and a physical motherboard diagram.

2 weeks later
#1993 1 year ago
Quoted from BobLangelius:

Is there a way to get a real knocker for RFM? the audio knocker is horrible.

No. There's nothing really to trigger it on since it is all a part of the audio stream. I happen to like the audio knock, it's nice an' loud. "Extra ball! YEE HA!

2 weeks later
#2005 1 year ago
Quoted from arakissun:

And P2000 has it's #2000 post thanks to ForceFlow.

Correction. This is the RFM club. For P2000 club you need to add the 12 posts of the SWEP1 club. hehe

1 week later
#2033 1 year ago
Quoted from TBatti:

I read there is one on the motherboard and one on the prism card. What is the best way to access these??? I don't know how to get at them???
I've never worked on my RFM at all and I'm trying to understand where everything is and how to get at it.

Quoted from ForceFlow:

There is. it's between the sandwiched PCBs.

Yes, sandwiched between the Prism PCI card and its daughterboard. Word of caution, be extremely gently when prying these cards apart! Seen many with the connectors ripped off.

#2051 1 year ago
Quoted from Zitt:

So far I am not sure, what problems exactly happen, when this battery gets empty.

The battery on the mobo holds the CMOS mem, so you'll lose CPU date/time....probably will still boot, I've never actually experienced it, but it is just a PC- I don't think there are any special settings in there that are required to make it run. The battery on the Prism would be holding the game settings, so likely everything would default, you'd lose things like the high scores, freeplay settings, # balls etc.... so that's how you know which battery has failed.

#2054 1 year ago
Quoted from TBatti:

Anyone have a pic of where this is?

prism04 (resized).jpg
1 month later
#2123 1 year ago
Quoted from Mocean:

The difference after I installed the amp is really noticable. The best way to describe it is that the picture with the lights on in the room are as bright as they were when the lights were off prior. With the lights off now, it's crazy.

Make sure you go back and fine tune the monitors brightness/contrast after installing the video amp. Just in case you didn't. It's one thing to have a bright picture, but it can be a bit too much and you can knock it back a little if you play with the lights off.

Quoted from Mocean:

I think replacing the audio amp is a close second (bang for buck). I installed a Lepai 168 in there and, even with the stock speakers, the sound difference is astounding.

I think the stock sound is incredible and see no need to ever upgrade it. Blows me away every time I play it.

#2129 1 year ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

I replaced the computer power supply due to its fan failing and it has occurred since doing that today.

You could have installed a defective or inferior quality supply.

#2133 1 year ago
Quoted from Mocean:

More to the point, it worked before you replaced it, so it's a good place to start.

Definitely suspect, as it was the last thing touched...at least check the DC power rails and measure the AC ripple, to help rule out a problem there. It's always a good idea to check a PSU before installing it in a game.
Since it's never worked with the new supply, it can't be completely ruled out at this stage.

Check your cables thoroughly as well, you've had to unplug stuff and might have a poor connection in the cabling. Otherwise, it could be purely coincidental.

4 weeks later
#2163 1 year ago
Quoted from BobC:

I would still manually discharge it just in case

"He said discharge...hehehe"

index (resized).jpg

1 month later
#2208 1 year ago
Quoted from MMP:

I'm not terribly familiar with this form factor... are the flippers aligned with the hole above the flips on this game rather than the bottom?

I never use the holes for flipper alignment. I always line up the flipper top edges with the inlane rails with a straight edge, for a perfect flow from rail to flipper with no bounce.

#2211 1 year ago
Quoted from wylcot:

Hey everyone,
I have issues with optos : the one in the Stroke of Luck, and the one right behind it, in the ejector.
I usually use my phone camera to check if there's actually a beam, but I can't see anything on this pin (even on those who seem to be working).
Is there anything special with them optos??

Standard infra red optos, I believe. Compare them to the ones in the trough.

2 weeks later
#2224 1 year ago
Quoted from Don44:

I booted it up again a couple of hour later and no problems. I wonder why it did that though

Go through the basics. Make sure both CPU fan and power supply fans are running flawlessly. Check voltages on the power supply. If it is the original, chances are it needs replaced. I've done all of that and more, and once in a blue moon, rarely, if the game has not been played in a long time it will require a second boot up. I've got basically all original and CRT, so chalk it up to age. I also have a pinbox sitting in storage.

1 week later
#2234 1 year ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

I’ve plugged headphones in previously to the board when trying to isolate a speaker him and received no sound.

What are you plugging into? Since the game is setup to run the program off the Prism, I would assume that any "standard" jacks may not be working, they would need to be controlled with a standard operating system and drivers. If you went to attach your headphones directly to the amplifier output to the speakers, your headphones may have a different impedence, perhaps.

#2237 1 year ago
Quoted from jgecmd:

Plugging standard headphones into the Out jack on the audio board.

Not likely used in P2K.

2 weeks later
#2257 1 year ago

This is the greatest machine on the planet. There is no need to update to software above v1.5, or change to Nucore, Pinbox, or any other substitute unless it is broken. Enjoy killing those martians!

#2267 1 year ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

As stated earlier, I don't have any empty connectors to plug the spotlights into below my PF, so could any of you please take 5 min and trace the four cables (two for each spotlight) and see where they end up connecting to? I would appreciate it a lot!

All lamps including GI are a part of the lamp matrix. One side of both spot lamps gets red/grey from the row and the left slingshot spot gets yellow/brown and the right gets yellow/red. You can connect them anywhere that is convenient as long as you keep the daisy chain intact

1201181213a~01 (resized).jpginCollage_20181201_122218507 (resized).jpg

#2269 1 year ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Awesome answer, now I just need to understand the lamp matrix a bit better
Anyway, this info should be enough for me to fix the spots, lots of thanks!

Watch the video link below. Please make sure your spot lamps have diodes across the terminals. If they dont, you can add the diodes. Someone replaced my spot lamps with lamps with no diodes when I bought RFM. It was confused and all the lamps acted wonky.

#2271 1 year ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

3. Add a diode between both cables on each spotlight. If I understand the schematics correctly the two blocking diodes should go from column to row; ie flow is from column to row and blocks the other way.

Yes, except I misspoke. The steering diodes are in series with the lamps. The striped side (cathode) of the diode attached to the lamp terminal opposite of the terminal that you attach the yellow with x stripe row wire. Then the red with x stripe column wire attaches to the anode of the diode. Current flows from column to row. Standard general purpose 1N series diodes are fine. I use 1N4004 for them. Hope this is a little clearer, refer to the diagram below.

Screenshot at 2018-12-02 05-42-51 (resized).png
#2274 1 year ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

Well, I've joined the club. .

Welcome to the club
- YES! By far a monster of heavy and awkward
I was going to try to bring the head down the stairs by myself. No way...I enlisted help
- my buddy who is not a pinball hobbyist owns RFM because it is a great example of the tech and diagnostics
- The sound is so great you don't need upgrades. Stock is perfect.
- Stock incandescent works as it should and looks fantastic. LEDs inhibit the dimming and the overall look of the game....I don't like them in this title.
- the only mod I added was the synchronized saucer LEDs. Flying saucers beg to have them, and already had holes around the perimeter
- I use the stock Prism, but it is comforting to know I have a working Pinbox waiting in storage in case of catastrophe.

#2278 1 year ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

You unfortunately lose the fading effects with LEDs, but with LEDs, things really pop. I just ended up doing LEDs. It looked too dark and dim compared to my other games.
Maybe someday there will be an LED OCD mod available...
One other thing I did was add the ultimarc video amplifier, which really brightens up the display a lot and provides richer colors. It's fairly inexpensive too.

You also lose the lamp diagnostics with LEDs, which although not required is a really cool part of the tech of this series. I like the games overall dark look. I also added the video amp.

#2279 1 year ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

This RFM has clicking audio. Updated to 1.5 and everything tested good, but the audio still clicks. Diagnostic report show U109 checksum error, so I'm assuming this is the cause. Is there any option aside from replacing the ROM?

When installing Ep1 ROMs on a game that ran before with RFM 1.4 or 1.5 on it,
the game will report "checksum U109" problems. Disable Update SW before swap
and so a serial update of the sound and Program flash directly after swap.

#2293 1 year ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

The game had RFM on it already and I'm not doing a swap. I just updated the game from an earlier version.

Hmmm. That was the only thing I dug up that mentioned the same checksum U109 error.

#2300 12 months ago
Quoted from Guari777:

Hi everyone. I’m new to the RFM club. My RFM has one unique thing that not many others have. An actual backglass! This backglass has darker/rich colors. This helps the colors not get drowned out by the fluorescent bulb. I’ve attached some pictures. One shows it side by side with the original translite.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Is that actually screen printed on the glass? Post a picture of the back of it, please. It would look a lot different from a translite.

#2310 12 months ago
Quoted from Guari777:

I’m not sure how it’s suppose to look like from behind but this is what it looks like lit up.
[quoted image]

It should look similar to ones below if it was printed on glass. When I first brought my Taxi home years ago, I could have swore it was printed glass. As it turned out, the translite was so stuck to the glass that you couldn't hardly peel it back with a fingernail. But to me yours looks like it is neither a printed glass or translite, but some kind of a print perhaps. That would explain why it is so dark.

28082185_2 (resized).jpgdcd771a80b09d4b388a2cbcd0584364e (resized).jpg
1 month later
#2418 11 months ago
Quoted from embryon:

thanks for the update, will try it soon. My biggest disappointment with pin2000 was that they didn't utilize the graphical interface for some kind of video mode. Many DMD games have really lame video modes which I suppose is due to the limitation with the dmd animations etc. But Pin2000 has the graphics and 4 buttons as well which could have enabled some serious video mode.

What? Plenty of video modes...some would argue there is actually too many, thus "interrupts flow".

#2422 10 months ago
Quoted from Joe_Blasi:

They did use the tech to have some what of video modes with live ball play.

Right, and they had "Mystery Mode" even named as a mode, Martian Aerobics in it a take on Space Invaders except using a ball to hit them. More interesting and more challenging.

2 weeks later
#2450 10 months ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

The black is flaking ever so slightly off this piece of metal. How was it applied at the factory and does anyone make a replacement part? If no replacement part is made, how would one scrape and reapply black to it?
[quoted image]

I replaced mine with high density self adhesive black foam weatherstrip tape.

#2461 10 months ago

A friend had this question and I just couldn't answer. What is the purpose of this gate on the left lane. It swings both ways.

*Solved*. Opened my game and found this gate only swings toward the back of the playfield, so his must be broken.
large (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#2502 9 months ago
Quoted from Graysonsdad:

Does anyone still carry the kits to either lit up the saucer with more lights or make them rotate? Those are pretty cool looking.

I DIY'd mine, because I preferred the version that the saucers LEDs are in sync with how many saucer light completions you have on the main ship. I just can't remember where the instructions were.

#2504 9 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

This would be cool to know

Found them...here ya' go. It's a great looking mod, because when the LEDs stop rotating you can clearly see how many saucer lights you obtained, and the more saucer lights you earn, the better the mod looks. I didn't assemble the mod exactly as shown with ethernet cable, I happened to have some 15 conductor PVC jacketed wire with a lot of colors, so I just wired discreetly.


#2507 9 months ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Wow that's a lot of work. Good job.

Thanks. The painstaking part is building the LEDs into the saucers. I did those one day, then the wiring another day. It is a great mod.

#2512 9 months ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Figured posting here was as good as any - do any of the SWEP1 kits exist out there any more and if so what can someone expect to pay for one?
Would like to get this combo back in the house as we enjoyed it quite a bit before but finding kits seems nearly impossible.

I saw a kit out there recently, just can't remember where. I think the asking price was something like $1700.

3 weeks later
#2581 8 months ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

After a power cycle, my RFM game has started forgetting it's settings. I've replaced the PC coin battery and the coin battery on the prism card. Any thoughts on what I might check? Perhaps the replacement battery was bad? Which one?

The CMOS battery on the motherboard would only affect the date and time if it was bad, so likely the battery on the Prism card is your problem.

1 week later
#2591 8 months ago
Quoted from mjannusch:

Applejuice's new version is running great on my Nucore RFM also. Love it!

I put v2.0 on mine this weekend. The tarantula creeps me out. I hate spiders so my first shot is to shrink that bastard when when he shows up.

#2600 8 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Added real knocker option instead of simulated sounds when enabled

Hey applejuice, I'm certainly interested in the real knocker option. I just have a question about the v2.0 simulated knock. The original knock in my stock game was very loud, and the v2.0 is very quiet. Was this by design?, or is there an adjustment or something for this?

1 week later
#2619 8 months ago
rfm1 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#2672 7 months ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Updated today, first tile no issues. Played 2 games and almost got to attack mars, was one saucer light short. Great update! Now I just need to get a knocker so I can get rid of the horrible static squeal on extra ball and match

I've updated as well. Great stuff! NICE graphics improvements...I'll be looking into the knocker, and possibly the shaker later.

#2690 7 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Good to know. I'm assuming this would involve moving them from the GI to specific output on the matrix.

Shakers and knockers are considered coils, not lamps.

#2704 7 months ago

Try this first, as it is the easiest possible repair:

Quoted from jodini:

So I figured out that the two reed switches are side by side (for the most part) work better if you turn one around in the mount so the magnets are not as close to each other. Now the shots are working about 99% of the time and work on that lane.
Problem solved!

If that doesn't work and you cannot locate a replacement - there is a more elaborate DIY fix:


#2707 7 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Question: When sliding your playfield in and out... is it like... horrible? I mean mine is definitely metal on metal rough, sounds and feels horrible. My playfield slide feet don't look really worn.... Should the rails be lubricated? I've zero experience with pinball 2000.

Sounds weird. I don't really notice a problem. I wouldn't lubricate them, though. It's one place that you might find yourself grabbing, etc... and you don't really want to get goop on your hands and in the game.

#2716 7 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:

This is how my game normally reports lamp issues wrongly (using pinbox)

Interesting. I am using Pinbox and mine did not look like that, but I do get the "martian eyes" lamp errors (I went around in circles trying to find these on the playfield, too )

#2723 7 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:

I think its pretty variable on pinbox/nucore. I use normal lamps but this was just for the sake of a test for the led guys.
And i guess you do know the martian eye lamps were new lamps positions added in v2.10 for future updates and for people who upgrade the rubber martians

Yep, found that out pretty quickly.

1 week later
#2770 6 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Opinions on mirror blades vs. artwork blades? I've never seen mirror blades on a pin 2000... artwork blades look decent to me. Not sure what to do... if any when I get this machine restored.

I'd say none. To me restoration is bringing something back to original factory condition, and the original game did not have blades. I also prefer the focus to be on the playfield, generally black sides force the eyes on the playfield. Blades are an overkill to me.

#2775 6 months ago
Quoted from TBatti:

There's an upgrade?


It's great! 2nd item from the top of the page at the link below.

#2782 6 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Not sure jokes are a good idea. I don't want people emailing me worrying...

I'll back you up, chief. At least in my experience with Pinbox/Nucore - completely safe, and game enhancing. Even if it wasn't, It can be reversed by reinstalling original software. As I understand it, if you attempt the upgrade with the original game Prism card and it fails you still have an out. The games original startup hard-coded software takes over:

"When you update the game, you are putting a new version of game code
and some sound data and even some image data into the Flash part on
the board. This "overlays" the equivalent section of the ROM, so it's
what gets used instead when the game boots and runs. But the ROM
version is always there as a failsafe fallback. If an update goes
bad, or the Flash somehow loses its mind on location and gets
scrambled, or whatever, the boot process will see that it is corrupt
and not use it as an overlay, instead using what was originally in the
ROMs. Thus the game will not die, will not magically be on free play,
or any other really bad problem in a location environment. And it
will still boot so you can get to the update mode and re-Flash it.
From memory (no pun intended) I believe the ROM space is 64MB, and
the Flash part overlays 4MB of that."

#2818 6 months ago
Quoted from mastercello:

Haven't they used Cherry DA3C microswitches like most of the WPC era games?

After the Bally Williams merger most games were a conglomeration of parts from both companies. Pinball 2000 was a whole different animal from what was produced at the time. WMS pinball was dismantled the same year, 1999.

1 month later
#3020 5 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

My point is that modern electronics use a lead free solder processes... which is way more susceptible to break with shock and vibe.

way more??? According to everything I have read/heard/known, lead free in most cases is at least equivalent to leaded solder in regards to common reliability issues such as drop shock, vibration and thermal cycling, except for some high-rel, high-stress environments where the jury is still out. Does a pinball machine have shock and vibration...sure it does. I just don't think a pinball machine qualifies for the "high-stress" definition that the experts debate.

2 months later
#3212 88 days ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I just dont understand why the problem would escalate by just reflowing. Is there a way to verify its a bad pot? Are the the ohms printed on the top?[quoted image]

Pots go bad far more often than the solder joints themselves, especially ancient pots in old video games. The heat from your reflowing can also distort the elements of the pot, chemically alter dirt and oxidation, and other aggravation to an already worn out pot.

All you need is the schematic for the make & model of your monitor, usually the value is found there. In the example, a typical Wells-Gardner K7000 monitor schematic indicating the value of a pot. You'll need to remove the pot from the board for accurate testing, which is why it is usually desired to just replace the pot for long term reliability

Untitled (resized).png
1 month later
#3286 51 days ago
Quoted from longtemps1:

Thanks, also. I still need some sort of reference to know what is “right”. I hadn’t played this model machine in so long, I’m not sure how it should look.

Quoted from longtemps1:

I just received my RFM to discover (undisclosed by the seller) that it also had been refitted with a 17” LCD. I am looking at a larger LCD with a better contrast ratio.
Those of you who have used a 24” (widescreen) LCD talk about in being a perfect fit, etc. My machine has the original cutout piece of plywood holding the monitor and the cutout for the screen is about 18” wide. I see how a 24” widescreen would fit inside the cabinet going to the edges, but with that plywood unmodified the monitor would sit on top of the plywood, not have its screen ito 16:9nline with the playfield-facing edge of the plywood.
Do you modify or replace the plywood, do you let the monitor sit on top, or even below?

I'm using a 22" Dell. Mounted underside, set to 16:9. Excellent alignment of images above ramps and targets.

00100lPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20191020052549502_COVER (resized).jpgIMG_20191020_052840~01 (resized).jpg
#3288 51 days ago
Quoted from longtemps1:

Wayout, these photos were very helpful. Thanks!

Your welcome! I made my own bracket made of wood with screws and nylon spacers. I had a buddy hold the monitor above the glass and attached the monitor, leaving it slightly loose to make position adjustments before tightening. Afterwards, I made a picture frame bezel out of black coated cardboard to install around the back perimeter of the monitor.

#3290 49 days ago

I think my Dell 22* monitor looks darn good. Better than the old CRT and quite black with properly lowered contrast and brightness. $56 on EBay.

#3294 44 days ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Any form of adhesive backed insulation tape works. Anything for stopping draughty in door frames etc

No. Not anything. Get a better product, most of those disintegrate and deform quickly. I use only high density, and it
works great.
High Density Foam Tape Waterproof Sealing Strip CR Strips Neoprene Single-Sided Adhesive EVA Seal 3/4" X 3/8" X 13Ft amazon.com link »

#3302 42 days ago
Quoted from longtemps1:

Wayout, you’ve been very helpful to me. I found this two year old post you’d made. I am curious how the bulbs are driven. When I received my RFM a few weeks ago, it had most bulbs replaced with LEDs. Today, I tried to replace some burned out lights, mostly bulbs, but also some LEDs. My replacements were all to be LEDs. There is a cluster of bulb locations (11B, 12B, 13B, 14B, 15B, 16B, 17B) near the bottom of the playfield, all in a single column in the matrix, that burned out the LEDs nearly instantly. Checking with a multimeter (difficult to get a true reading since they’re blinking all the time during lamp tests), these positions, all on the same PCB seem to have higher voltage than others, maybe 2 or 3 times the typical readings.
It almost seems like a crossed wire is causing a doubling up of lamp voltage, if that’s possible. It may be these positions, for whatever reason, will only work with incandescent bulbs. Or, maybe...?
This is my first solid state pinball machine. I am pretty good at troubleshooting my old EM machines, but I am somewhat at a loss here.

First, I recommend you brush up on your diagnostic skills for digital electronics. Read the WPC lamp circuit theory, because Pinball 2000 is similar, if not identical. The most likely cause is some type of column circuit failure. If a transistor has shorted on, a row or column of lamps will be turned on for a longer time, and hence be brighter - checking the column transistor may be a good starting point. From there, the easiest method would be to compare measurements at points of the column circuit that has failed to one that operates correctly, to give you a reference of what you should be seeing.

#3313 39 days ago
Quoted from longtemps1:

I found a section in pinwiki.com on Williams WPC tech. Are there other specific documents you recommend? I can also go back to my experience as a kid in the pre-digital electronics age, as these seem to be good old fashioned discrete driver transistors, nowadays controlled by a digital circuit. If the trouble is at that level (and from what you describe this seems likely) I have a fighting chance.
When you mention “compare measurements at points of the column circuit that has failed to one that operates correctly“. If the transistor or associated passive components is not the cause, do you mean downstream, i.e. toward the lamps or upstream toward the digital controller?
Thanks again for letting me reach out to you.

Sorry I took so long to get back to you:
I would start with the lamp testing process that confirms the problem is on the board, to rule out the playfield as playing a part. The driver transistor is the typical weak link, although other things can contribute. If you find the signals going to the drive transistor are whacked, just move upstream from there. Only so much can be wrong with the "channel" if other columns are working correctly, and usually won't extend further upstream than the driving PIA.

This is an excerpt from the WPC lamp testing in the repair docs:

Testing the Lamp Columns.
If a TIP107 transistor that drives a lamp column is suspected as bad, test it:

Remove the backglass and fold down the display, to gain access to the Driver board.
Turn the game on.
After the game boots, press the "Begin Test" button in the front door. Go to the Test menu's "All Lamp Test" test.
Unplug the row connectors at J133 (or J124 on WPC-95) and column connector at J137 (or J121 on WPC-95). These are on the lower right portion of the Driver board.
Connect an alligator test lead to row connector pin 1 of J133 (or J121 on WPC-95). Pin 1 is the right most pin, as facing the board.
Connect the other end of this test lead to one lead of a 555 light socket. One can be temporarily borrowed from a playfield lamp (make sure the lamp works first!).
Connect another test lead to the second lead of the 555 light socket.
On the other end of the test lead, clip on a 1N4004 diode, with the banded end away from the alligator lead.
Touch the banded end of the diode to column connector J137 (or J121 on WPC-95) pin 1. Again, pin 1 is the right most pin, as facing the board.
The lamp should flash.
Move the diode/alligator lead on column connector J137 (or J121 on WPC-95) to the next pin. Again, the lamp should flash.
Repeat the previous step, until the last pin of column connector J137 (or J121 on WPC-95) is reached.

If a lamp column tested doesn't give a flashing test lamp, that column is bad (or the test diode is reversed!). No light or a non-flashing, bright lamp are signs that the respective column TIP107 transistor is bad. Test the transistor as described in Testing Transistors and Coils.

#3325 33 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

That’s the way to go! Lots of people like the LCD... I’m not one of them. The CRT just looks so much better in my opinion. I keep one as a spare.

I used to feel this way. Once I decided to go Pinbox, LCD with Applejuice's software upgrades look much better.

3 weeks later
#3377 12 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Hey guys - I'm back to making repro MRS' - I took some time to work on a different MRS for the Creech whirlpool and just switched back to making repro MRS'.....let me know if you are interested - I'm putting a list together!....

What the heck is MRS?

#3392 11 days ago
Quoted from P1nhead:

The more you know...
That's a reference picture for the uninitiated. That being said, I am definitely interested in getting a backup set of these.

Okay. I knew what they were, just didn't recognize the acronym, with no original reference STMA can bother me me.

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