To each their own, but I think the inserts look MUCH better with LEDs. I prefer to selectively replace only some of the GI with LEDs.
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Need some help with a friend's game - he blew fuse F103 and then noticed the trough eject coil was stinky and burnt looking. He installed a new coil and fuse, powered the game on while watching it from underneath to make sure the new coil wouldn't lock on due to a bad transistor, but as soon as he turned the game on F103 blew again and no coil activity at all. So I'm thinking there is a short somewhere - is the likely culprit the drive transistor Q51? He doesn't have a multimeter to test right now.
EDIT: Solved, he called me right after I posted! So I advised him to disconnect each coil on F103 and try to power up, then if it works connect each coil one by one until the fuse blows. Turns out his left jet bumper was sticking and locking up, probably a bad coil at this point which caused the fuse to blow. He's going to disable it for now and order some parts for a full rebuild since the washers/links looks really worn anyways.
Quoted from Jodannar:Found my spotlight parts. Now the problem is where they connect in. Apparently german machines didn't ship with spots? Is there a different loom for these machines? I have no spare plugs under the play field to hook the lights into. My saucers are the only plugs available near the slings...
Added today: Has anyone added slingshot spotlights to early run German machines? Did you need to wire back to the lamp matrix or did you find somewhere in the loom to hook into?
I don't have info on where they connect to specifically on RFM, but they would not be connected to the lamp matrix. If they are for GI then they you can tap into another GI bulb nearby if there is really no connector for them.
Quoted from Tlamb:There is technically no GI on RFM since every lamp is controlled. I can check the wires that drive the spotlitghts when I get home.
Thank you. Forgive my comment about not hooking them up to the lamp matrix then!
Coil diodes are required in Pinball 2000, correct? I am seeing some conflicting info on this.
If coil diodes are required and a coil is installed without the diode, what would the effect be? My friend has a coil that locks on when the game starts. I am thinking the drive transistor needs to be replaced but wonder what else could have happened if he ran a coil without diode when there should be one.
Thanks guys, that is helpful. I'm still not sure if Pinball 2000 uses coil diodes. I found this high res pic of a board - I see some large rectifying diodes at the top right and another row of 12 diodes towards the center. Not sure if these are for coils or something else, but towards the bottom I see some diodes next to the coil drive transistors which leads me to believe they are NOT on the coils... If I had a game here I would just pop the hood and look! Anybody know for sure? Thanks for your help.
Quoted from maffewl:With the WannaCry virus outbreak, and the like, I'll pass on clicking that link. No offense.
I took the bait and the link is legit. Nice Google photo album with tons of high res photos and videos.
Quoted from aerobert:My serial port is missing from inside the coin door. I guess it's just an extension up to the PC?
Correct
Quoted from maffewl:It's not a matter of if, but when. You could probably keep it running by replacing the caps (and hopefully not damaging the board), or by sending to Rob Anthony. However, my suggestion would be to go the Pinbox route, and not have to worry about it again. Make a backup and you are golden.
If it's just the caps on the motherboard that are a common failure, replace them and you are good. No need to change to Pinbox for that, as it also requires a PC (which has capacitors).
Quoted from Zitt:I really need to get my RFM functional... <sigh>
Honestly; the hold up right now is I can't find the damn monitor's Power connector so I can build a bench plug to enable me to do some testing of the monitor outside the machine/cabinet. (Tube swap; expecting to need convergence at a minimum)
I've ordered like 3 different molex style connectors; and none of them have the right "rounded square" keying. I'm toying with the idea of 3D printing a correct connector.
Are you talking about the stock monitor? I had a friend with the stock WG monitor in theirs and I made a new connector to interface with the video amp board. Standard molex connector and pins nothing special.
Quoted from billsfanmd:Looking at an RFM and was told the green in the monitor will flicker and a cab bump will usually fix it.....read about resoldering on the cpu. Where am I resoldering? Looks like it should be an easy fix.
It would not be the cpu, it would be some solder joint on the monitor chassis or neckboard, maybe one of the pots for the green.
Quoted from Mancave:The monitor chassis could be repaired but i'm not sure if you can get a replacement flyback for that model, and from memory i can't recall the model number. Not too long after i bought my RFM the Wells Gardner chassis flyback died but i was extremely lucky in tracking down a NOS chassis of the same model. I know that quite a few WG flyback's have been reproduced just not sure about this one, and also not sure about the Ducksan chassis flyback, RFM's used both brands of monitor chassis.
As i stated in a previous post i'm a fan of keeping the CRT...IF at all possible, if that's not feasible then your only option is to go flat screen, either LCD or LED.
If it's a WG 19k series you can get flybacks for those all day from various sources.
Quoted from TigerLaw:My machine is running version 1.5, is it worth upgrading to 1.6 or is not really much changed?
Not worth upgrading from 1.50:
Version: 1.60 - SEP 22 2003
(Changes From 1.50)
Incorporate the final version of XINA (1.19) which fixes the problem
where booting the system with the power driver board disconnected
can cause factory reset to occur due to the mismatch of the last
country dipswitch setting in CMOS vs. the country setting for
an open power driver board cable.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:New to the club
I think the Pinball 2000 concept is really nice, although a bit "scary" regarding finding spare parts if/when it breaks.
Don't be scared! Most P2K parts are readily available. Original computer parts like the motherboard, prism card and audio amp are not very easy to find, but they can still be found occasionally. Worst case, swap out the computer and run Pinbox if you have to.
Quoted from j_m_:who gave my image an "unsafe" tag? was it too close a shot of the stroke of luck hole for general consumption??
You posted a picture of a tight hole what did you expect?
My friend's RFM has started turning off, here is the info I have:
1. He said it takes longer than usual lately to boot up, maybe 1 minute now and it didn't used to take that long.
2. When the game finally boots, he can start a game and the ball ejects into the shooter lane as usual. After flipping the ball around for about 10-15 secs the game shuts off completely and does not respond again until it's power cycled.
He still has the original capacitors on the PC motherboard so I will be replacing them as a good practice. What else could cause the complete shutdown? Could it be a bad MOV or something else on the power line? Would a failing AT power supply cause this?
Thanks in advance for any help. I still have a lot to learn about pin2k.
Quoted from Clytor:Are the CPU and power supply fans running? Check the 5V line on the power supply. If the voltage dips below 5v, it could definitely shut the game down.
Thanks for the reply. He said it turns "completely off" but I will confirm with him that the fans are also not running. If the power supply needs to be replaced is there another drop-in replacement AT power supply? I had some old notes that this one works but it's no longer available :/ https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Replacement-Computer-Power-Supply/dp/B00005133U
Quoted from Clytor:Are the CPU and power supply fans running? Check the 5V line on the power supply. If the voltage dips below 5v, it could definitely shut the game down.
So I get his game PC in and see this... I will try only replacing these 5 caps first since they are toast.
Anybody seen this before? I noticed the CPU heatsink was only held on by 1 half of the spring clip. Removed the clamp and the heatsink was stuck to the CPU... Looks like someone used foam double sided tape to hold it on! I'm going to remove this and use thermal compound... Unless the pin2k computer is different than every other computer I've built?
IMG_20190415_172410005 (resized).jpgI cleaned off all the sticky stuff and just used some arctic silver. The socket tabs and hooks are all intact and it's holding well.
Quoted from ForceFlow:Thermal pads were used at one point in the late 90s and early 2000s. There was some debate back then about which was better (pads vs paste). Although, I don't remember thermal pads turning gooey like that. They mostly seemed to dry out.
Personally, I prefer ceramique paste, rather than artic silver. It's not electrically conductive, so if you happen to get it somewhere, it won't short out anything.
Thanks for the input. I used arctic silver because I had it available, but just remembered I also have some other white thermal paste stuff that's been used on transistors in monitor chassis. Maybe that's similar and I didn't even think about using it on a CPU cooler
Quoted from ForceFlow:Is it that the stuff that hardens? If so, that isn't the same stuff as the CPU thermal paste.
It's this stuff, I am thinking it doesn't harden because it's grease
IMG_20190416_191440594 (resized).jpgQuoted from PhillyArcade:If you are still running the CRT is there a video amp still around to boost it up like the ultimarc? Or is that the only option? I'm seeing a dead link on their page for it. I did a cap kit on the monitor new flyback and hot and now it's running great it just seems weak. Before I rule out a weak tube, I'd like to try a video amp for it and keep my CRT a little longer. Thanks!
Looks like he moved the link, here it is: https://www.ultimarc.com/arcade-vga-and-video/arcadevga-accessories/arcade-monitor-video-amplifier/
Should get you the output you're looking for No RFM with a CRT should be without one.
Quoted from kdunbar:Trying to change the BR2325 battery, the boards are stuck together pretty tight, is there a easier way to separate these other than brute force?
If you have them started you can try sticking a small flathead screwdriver in the gap between the connectors and twisting to help pry them apart. Just go very slowly while sticking a finger in between the boards to help pry them apart.
Quoted from justyn:The caps on my motherboard are bulging and I don't have the skill to attempt the repair. Where can I send it for capacitor replacement?
Quoted from OutlawTorn304:I have to be honest with you, I don’t care. Also, the alignment isn’t correct because it was just being test fitted. I also wasn’t going to spend a fortune fixing the CRT. It was incredibly dim and the flyback fried and I’m not sure what else it took with it.
It is not expensive to rebuild the monitor chassis.
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Question - what’s the verdict on Video Amplifiers? Looks good without one, but wondering if I should get one anyway. Shows as $23 on Ultimarc, but then checking out it’s $42. So that’s what I’m balking at, is it worth it?
YES and YES. It's the best bang for your buck you can get. You'll wonder how you ever lived without one
Quoted from ViperTim:I’m planning on doing a full capacitor swap on the game as well.
Better to leave it all original. No modifications to the factory capacitors.
Quoted from justyn:Getting ready to restart my RFM restore now that the computer is sorted and the monitor is out for repair/rejuvenation. My current hesitation is that the inserts in my RFM have sunken to the point where they impact play. This doesn't seem like an easy thing to fix and replacement playfields appear non-existent. What are my options? Is there someone that fixes these? Thanks.
How sunken are we talking? If they are significantly sunk down, you might be able to tap them back up into place from underneath, and add some glue to hold them at the flush height.
Quoted from Flippermatt:Thanks for the input here. My computer powers on, the red light on the computer case lights up.. Fans are running. This looks to be another solution.
1. I want to start by changing the battery that is sandwiched inbetween.
2. It measures 3v on the outside battery holder when game is turned off and battery is not under load.
Has anyone split the Prism cards ever ? Any special approach doing this, looks delicate ? Is the Prism battery a show stopper if not supplying the 3v ?
Thanks
Matt
I separated my prism card manually very carefully so it can be done if you don't apply too much force and bend or break pins when it pops free. If you have access to a 3D printer you can use this tool to make it safer and easier to do: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4250887
Quoted from johnstewart:I was up until 1am a couple of nights ago finishing replacing all the bulbs (I did go with incandescents for the more visible ones). Haven't played it yet, but am excited to try. Holy hell, a couple of those are NOT easy to get to. I know it was the first time I had pulled the left ramp up since I've owned it, good to get cleaned up under there too.
I see my video amplifier is due to be delivered today (yay!). From looking at old posts, it seems I'll need to pull 5V from somewhere and wire it into the amplifier, since it's not provided by the stock video card. Is there wisdom from the group here on the best way to do that (for a mostly-stock RFM)?
Edit:
One more question.... for some time, I often see a "ball saved" message come up like ball saver kicked in after a drain, but the ball is still in play. I can't figure out the rhyme or reason to it (it's pretty random). I can only assume some switch is getting triggered that is too sensitive. I guess I'll check all the outside lane switches. I wonder if anyone has any specific switches I should check, or other suggestions, on where to be looking.
Edit2:
Is there any rubber/bumper kits people have found for this game? Mine could use some TLC. So grimy.
You may or may not need to source the 5V signal. Some RFM games have the 5V line built in and the video amp would be plug play in that case. I got lucky and did not need to source the 5V line. If you do, here is a good page with some pics: https://www.aaarpinball.com/RFM/RFM.htm
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:I keep seeing people talk about a video amp. Are folks using this instead of rebuilding the monitor to get a better pic? Or would it amplify a perfectly good looking monitor as well?
If you put a brand new or freshly rebuilt monitor in the game, the video amp would still make it look better.
Quoted from justyn:By chance does anyone know of someone that could repair an RFM monitor in the Seattle area? Needs a new flyback, cap kit, and horizontal transistor from what I understand. It's an Italian import so the monitor is an Intervideo VP series. I'd rather not ship this thing around....
Just FYI you can remove the chassis (circuit board) from the monitor if you do end up needing to ship it out for repair. No need to ship the actual tube. This is done often just like pinball circuit board repairs.
Quoted from Zitt:Are flybacks even an option these days?
Thought they were un obtain ium
Flyback transformers are still readily available for most common monitors.
If you can't get it to focus no matter what, then the flyback transformer may need to be replaced. Do a cap kit as well while you're in there.
Quoted from Eddie:The Yoke is tight. The video issue began with the installation of the video amp before I had done any work on the monitor.
Do you have the 5V signal going to the video amp via the VGA cable? Depending on when the game was built, some games had this 5V connection going to the VGA cable so it's plug and play with the ultimarc video amp. Some games require you to source this 5V from elsewhere to bring it to the amp.
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