To each their own, but I think the inserts look MUCH better with LEDs. I prefer to selectively replace only some of the GI with LEDs.
Need some help with a friend's game - he blew fuse F103 and then noticed the trough eject coil was stinky and burnt looking. He installed a new coil and fuse, powered the game on while watching it from underneath to make sure the new coil wouldn't lock on due to a bad transistor, but as soon as he turned the game on F103 blew again and no coil activity at all. So I'm thinking there is a short somewhere - is the likely culprit the drive transistor Q51? He doesn't have a multimeter to test right now.
EDIT: Solved, he called me right after I posted! So I advised him to disconnect each coil on F103 and try to power up, then if it works connect each coil one by one until the fuse blows. Turns out his left jet bumper was sticking and locking up, probably a bad coil at this point which caused the fuse to blow. He's going to disable it for now and order some parts for a full rebuild since the washers/links looks really worn anyways.
Quoted from Jodannar:
Found my spotlight parts. Now the problem is where they connect in. Apparently german machines didn't ship with spots? Is there a different loom for these machines? I have no spare plugs under the play field to hook the lights into. My saucers are the only plugs available near the slings...
Added today: Has anyone added slingshot spotlights to early run German machines? Did you need to wire back to the lamp matrix or did you find somewhere in the loom to hook into?
I don't have info on where they connect to specifically on RFM, but they would not be connected to the lamp matrix. If they are for GI then they you can tap into another GI bulb nearby if there is really no connector for them.
Coil diodes are required in Pinball 2000, correct? I am seeing some conflicting info on this.
If coil diodes are required and a coil is installed without the diode, what would the effect be? My friend has a coil that locks on when the game starts. I am thinking the drive transistor needs to be replaced but wonder what else could have happened if he ran a coil without diode when there should be one.
Thanks guys, that is helpful. I'm still not sure if Pinball 2000 uses coil diodes. I found this high res pic of a board - I see some large rectifying diodes at the top right and another row of 12 diodes towards the center. Not sure if these are for coils or something else, but towards the bottom I see some diodes next to the coil drive transistors which leads me to believe they are NOT on the coils... If I had a game here I would just pop the hood and look! Anybody know for sure? Thanks for your help.
Quoted from maffewl:
It's not a matter of if, but when. You could probably keep it running by replacing the caps (and hopefully not damaging the board), or by sending to Rob Anthony. However, my suggestion would be to go the Pinbox route, and not have to worry about it again. Make a backup and you are golden.
If it's just the caps on the motherboard that are a common failure, replace them and you are good. No need to change to Pinbox for that, as it also requires a PC (which has capacitors).
Quoted from Zitt:
I really need to get my RFM functional... <sigh>
Honestly; the hold up right now is I can't find the damn monitor's Power connector so I can build a bench plug to enable me to do some testing of the monitor outside the machine/cabinet. (Tube swap; expecting to need convergence at a minimum)
I've ordered like 3 different molex style connectors; and none of them have the right "rounded square" keying. I'm toying with the idea of 3D printing a correct connector.
Are you talking about the stock monitor? I had a friend with the stock WG monitor in theirs and I made a new connector to interface with the video amp board. Standard molex connector and pins nothing special.
It would not be the cpu, it would be some solder joint on the monitor chassis or neckboard, maybe one of the pots for the green.
Quoted from Mancave:
The monitor chassis could be repaired but i'm not sure if you can get a replacement flyback for that model, and from memory i can't recall the model number. Not too long after i bought my RFM the Wells Gardner chassis flyback died but i was extremely lucky in tracking down a NOS chassis of the same model. I know that quite a few WG flyback's have been reproduced just not sure about this one, and also not sure about the Ducksan chassis flyback, RFM's used both brands of monitor chassis.
As i stated in a previous post i'm a fan of keeping the CRT...IF at all possible, if that's not feasible then your only option is to go flat screen, either LCD or LED.
If it's a WG 19k series you can get flybacks for those all day from various sources.
Quoted from TigerLaw:
My machine is running version 1.5, is it worth upgrading to 1.6 or is not really much changed?
Not worth upgrading from 1.50:
Version: 1.60 - SEP 22 2003
(Changes From 1.50)
Incorporate the final version of XINA (1.19) which fixes the problem
where booting the system with the power driver board disconnected
can cause factory reset to occur due to the mismatch of the last
country dipswitch setting in CMOS vs. the country setting for
an open power driver board cable.
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:
New to the club
I think the Pinball 2000 concept is really nice, although a bit "scary" regarding finding spare parts if/when it breaks.
Don't be scared! Most P2K parts are readily available. Original computer parts like the motherboard, prism card and audio amp are not very easy to find, but they can still be found occasionally. Worst case, swap out the computer and run Pinbox if you have to.
My friend's RFM has started turning off, here is the info I have:
1. He said it takes longer than usual lately to boot up, maybe 1 minute now and it didn't used to take that long.
2. When the game finally boots, he can start a game and the ball ejects into the shooter lane as usual. After flipping the ball around for about 10-15 secs the game shuts off completely and does not respond again until it's power cycled.
He still has the original capacitors on the PC motherboard so I will be replacing them as a good practice. What else could cause the complete shutdown? Could it be a bad MOV or something else on the power line? Would a failing AT power supply cause this?
Thanks in advance for any help. I still have a lot to learn about pin2k.
Quoted from Clytor:
Are the CPU and power supply fans running? Check the 5V line on the power supply. If the voltage dips below 5v, it could definitely shut the game down.
Thanks for the reply. He said it turns "completely off" but I will confirm with him that the fans are also not running. If the power supply needs to be replaced is there another drop-in replacement AT power supply? I had some old notes that this one works but it's no longer available :/ amazon.com link »
Those seem to be fans, not complete power supplies?
Anybody seen this before? I noticed the CPU heatsink was only held on by 1 half of the spring clip. Removed the clamp and the heatsink was stuck to the CPU... Looks like someone used foam double sided tape to hold it on! I'm going to remove this and use thermal compound... Unless the pin2k computer is different than every other computer I've built?
I cleaned off all the sticky stuff and just used some arctic silver. The socket tabs and hooks are all intact and it's holding well.
Quoted from ForceFlow:
Thermal pads were used at one point in the late 90s and early 2000s. There was some debate back then about which was better (pads vs paste). Although, I don't remember thermal pads turning gooey like that. They mostly seemed to dry out.
Personally, I prefer ceramique paste, rather than artic silver. It's not electrically conductive, so if you happen to get it somewhere, it won't short out anything.
Thanks for the input. I used arctic silver because I had it available, but just remembered I also have some other white thermal paste stuff that's been used on transistors in monitor chassis. Maybe that's similar and I didn't even think about using it on a CPU cooler
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