LEDs that I've seen in this game tend to really overlight the PF. Frankly, the majority of LED treatments on games overlight PFs and make them look like a LiteBrite.
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LEDs that I've seen in this game tend to really overlight the PF. Frankly, the majority of LED treatments on games overlight PFs and make them look like a LiteBrite.
Quoted from j_m_:correction, never, ever toss your CRT <period>
there are many people in the community that can breath new life (myself included) using the proper tube from a 19" tv. not any tube will work, but based on the impedance of the horizontal and vertical guns, a like or near compatible tube from an older television can restore an arcade machine or in this case, a pinball 2000, CRT
plus, if there is an issue with the existing tube, it's much easier (and safer) to ship without that big, glass brick saving the cathode ray tube's yoke and rings will allow nearly any television tube to be used
This x 100 MILLION!!!! I have done tube swaps on supposedly "trashed and broken" CRTs. Rebuild the chassis and HV. Viola! Essentially a brand new monitor. Though its getting harder and harder to find donor TVs for tubes now.
Quoted from Zitt:Robo,
I have a broken neck on my "now backup" CRT for this beast.
I'd love to buy a "known good" CRT from someone so I could tube swap and get the back up working.
Any interest in helping me source a donor tube?
Look on CL, LetItGo, etc. for 19" RCA or Westinghouse TVs that were made in the 80s to mid 90s. The odds are high that the tube from the TV will work. Stay away from Japanese brands, particularly Sony, as I've never found any that were compatible. For reference, the swaps I do are in GO7 and WG 46xx series monitors.
Quoted from gearheaddropping:Yes, the mapping stays after total shutdown, etc. I am not sure about how mapping is handled on the host machine after the USB->NULL cable is pulled. This might need a remap to port 1 in Device Manager after it is reattached.
Jesus, I understand virtually nothing you posted. I'm an idiot.
Screen printing shouldn't have horizontal lines across the reverse side. From the picture you posted, your looks like it does. I could be someone's attempt at a one-off. I've never seen a screened glass with those marks. It may be nothing, but is is highly unusual.
Either way, welcome to the club! It's an incredibly overlooked title based off of both the technology and the great integration of the theme with the game play. I prefer this to AFM. I had both and I sold the AFM.
Quoted from Jimmyhonda:Anybody have a RFM topper they would sell. Similar to either of these?[quoted image][quoted image]
Good luck. I posted the same thing six months ago and haven't heard a peep. The manufacturer was going to see if they could do another run, but haven't been able to locate some of the materials.
Quoted from robotron911:Good luck. I posted the same thing six months ago and haven't heard a peep. The manufacturer was going to see if they could do another run, but haven't been able to locate some of the materials.
No longer in the hunt. I found a new, in-the-box topper! Yeah!!!!
Quoted from Zitt:applejuice Why take it to PM?
I think it should be a group conversations. Why not start a new thread in the appropriate forum here on Pinside?
I'd participate especially if you can post the current timings as you understand them.
Hell; I might even be convinced to pull out my oscilloscope.
If you disagree with his methods, then do it your way. But it seems a bit disingenuous to question how/why the OP is doing this when he is the one who has been turning out the updated code, wiring harness, saucer lighting mod, etc.
Art blades on this one aren't too bad. And counter to the opinion of "usually no blades in Williams era games" is that they weren't even conceived of during this era of manufacture. Or LCDs.
I don't think I would ever try mirrors on these. The playfield would trash these pretty easily since there's not alot of forgiveness with the ramp so close to the side and I'm not sure if it would effect the image projected on to the playfield.
I don't have the 2.1, but I did get the 2.0 pub card from Whiskey Tango and installation took all of 5 minutes. Completely painless.
Anyone having issues with the microswitches in the two top lanes? Before I did my teardown, the left one basically never registered. I replace both microswitches with new ones and made sure the wire form had plenty of extension into the lane. If I manually depress them, it registers and I can hear the microswitches click. But during an actual game, they miss registering about 25% of the time. I re-adjusted the wireforms with no luck.
Also, anyone get the pop bumpers with good action. I did a complete and total rebuild on all three, including polishing the metal rings, and they are still clunky. Stronger coils? The ones that are in are to spec.
Thanks.
I've only been able to source "Next Gen" art. The difference is that the Next Gen stuff has a rough, pebbly appearance whereas the original was smooth, glossy. The actual art looks perfect, as I recall, it's just the texture that's different.
Quoted from Ricochet:Yeah I accept that “Next Gen” is what it is and all that’s generally available... I just see them anywhere from 249 (eBay) to 289 (various pinball shops)... a little afraid to save a buck to be sure I’m not getting someone’s own version of a “Next Gen” product.
I bought mine at Expo for $125 directly from the vendor.
Prices for RFM are sure to skyrocket!
Very much appreciate your work, Sonic! Looking forward to getting the switch. I'll definitely be in for more when others have had theirs shipped.
Original DuckSan monitor available. Virtually no screen-burn. I can see just the slightest ghost of burn-in from the credits but have to look very closely. I was going to recap this and replace. I had a NOS Wells that I dropped in instead.
$200. I would prefer not to ship this, but can at buyer's expense.
Quoted from thesav:Hi team, I’m finally getting around to hooking up my shaker and knocker in RFM, but I’m unsure about my shakers wiring and whether I need a diode or not?
My shaker (stern 502-5027-00 rev B) is wired up, blue to orange & red to yellow on the RFM harness. Is that correct?
Do I need to add a diode in here somewhere for the shaker? If so, where physically do I add it?
My knocker (repurposed from my JP), I haven’t wired up yet, because I’m unsure of which way the diode and wiring should be around?
Red to brown & black to blue?
Thanks heaps.[quoted image]
As an homage to Chris Hutchins, replace the wiring on the knocker and shaker with color-correct wiring. Their short runs. It will cost nominal money and save tons of potential future confusion.
I posted earlier but got no reply. How do you reprogram the PUB card? I bought one with a much earlier revision of Applejuice's software. I would love to keep it current, but it makes no sense to pop for a new PUB card every time there is an update.
Thanks.
Go get foam door seal in the proper width. Cut it to fit. It's easy and it is invisible while offering cushion so the ball doesn't get so beat up. A $5 fix.
Quoted from GTO:Man, I wish those 3D translites would go on sale.
Quoted from MrMikeman:I’m on 1.5. I may have all my computer parts by the weekend. Right now the ArcadeVGA is scheduled to arrive Monday but I think it’ll be faster.
Yes I plan to keep using the original monitor. It’s crisp and bright with zero burn and there’s just no reason to replace it, especially after installing the video amp (still had it from my MAME days).
Update the software to Applejuice's latest version. It makes the game much harder. I can put up a couple billion with ease on the original software. It's not nearly as easy with the updates.
Quoted from Zitt:Exactly. That's what I did... Serial over usb.
Or wait for applejuice 's new updating software and do it for a "donation".
What does that imply?
Quoted from Arvid:Got a nice RfM this weekend and looking to restore it where I can.
One thing I noticed is that not all the lightbulbs on the playfield have a red silicone lamp cover. So I ordered a bunch of them (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8063-4), but can't figure out which lights originally had one of these covers. (the manual doesn't mention them, and it's hard to see in online photos and videos).
Anyone here can help me identifying where they should and shouldn't go?
The row of bulbs that are next to the shooter lane and covered by the plastics.
Quoted from NYP:Just picked up a nice HUO RFM and want to upgrade to LED's. I know that messes up the lamp test but don't care about that. Thinking of going with a cointaker non ghosting kit for the P.F and frosted warm white for the GI, unless someone here has a better idea, open to suggestions.....TIA
Be careful. Over-lighting the playfield will wash out the projected screen image.
I always wondered what UV LEDs with the UV post sleeves would look like. It would fit the theme.
Quoted from Zitt:The flyback is a transformer device that takes lower voltages and "amplifies" to a high voltage used in the CRT tube to force electrons to the front grid. I don't know what the voltage on the low side is... probably 100 volts or so... and the CRT tube needs like 15000-25000 Volts (no not a typo); to generate the beam that hits the inside phosphor to generate the RGB colors of the monitor.
The flyback is an AC device; but the CRT tube need DC ... so there are diodes and capacitors to convert the AC to DC.
The flyback is unobtanium just like the CRT. If either is damaged; the monitor is landfill.
Caps dry out with Age and Temperature and are usually rated for as low as 5000 hours. The high voltage and high temperature in the monitor chassis leads to pre-mature aging of those caps.
If the Caps short; they can take the flyback with it.
The video you posted looks very much like a fluctuating high voltage rail... which probably means you have bad caps "loading" that rail... which means you're flyback is seriously at risk.
Given you don't know that the monitor and it's high voltage caps have been replaced... you're asking for disappointment when you have to toss that monitor.
One of the first things I did a decade ago when I got my RFM is recap the monitor so "in theory" - mine is good for another 10-15 years. Yours is already past it's shelf date if it hasn't been recapped.
Respectfully, flybacks are not unobtanium. They aren't easy to get, but they are out there. The only reason to trash a CRT is if the neck is broken and even then a tube swap can be performed, though donor tubes are getting tougher and tougher to source.
Pinball collectors are much different than arcade collectors. Pin guys have to have it NOW. Arcade guys understand that sometimes you just have to be patient.
Quoted from Zitt:Put up a link to the flyback transformers used in Duckscan and the Well garner monitor chassis.
If those links point to an actual manufacture that doesn't do it out of his garage; then I will eat my words.
If they aren't available in high volume outlets; then you just proved my point.
Other than that; I do agree "in general terms" with your statements.
That said CRT screens are on life support; and they are on Do Not Resuscitate orders. If you disagree; well... then you aren't paying attention.
Someone beat me to the punch, but why would you bother with a Ducksan (or Duckshit, as some call it) monitor when you can sub in a Wells or Electrohome?
And, while I said "respectfully", your reply really wasn't or you didn't bother to actually read my reply which was:
"Respectfully, flybacks are not unobtanium. They aren't easy to get, but they are out there." If they were available at high volume outlets, then it would be EASY to get. It didn't prove your point, it just underlined you didn't understand mine. Go on Greedbay. Spend a couple of weeks looking and you will pull a flyback for most Wells or Electrohomes, if you can't find it with a Google search. I just did one and found flybacks for GO-7's and WG 46xx and other 19" WG CRT models. Not hard. Go do the work yourself.
Quoted from shirkle:Took a chance on ordering from coinopparts.com when I saw a nice looking playfield pop up. Glad I did. This thing is in fantastic shape. No shooter wear, almost no hole wear (a little to the bare wood, but not touching the art).
Thinking of having it clear coated. Any suggestions on who could clear it without breaking the bank?[quoted image]
Jealous, my friend. I've been looking for a NOS quality pf for three years now with no luck. Someday!
Quoted from justyn:I've been looking for quite some time with no luck. If you find a supplier, I'd love to hear about it.
Looked for 2 years without luck. These weren't high production games and the last at Williams, so there probably aren't any left, unfortunately.
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