(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"

By kjm8888

6 years ago

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4 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #2093 Wells Gardner K700 troubleshooting flow chart Posted by snakesnsparklers (2 years ago)

Post #2187 Links to updating the game code using windows 7 Posted by ForceFlow (2 years ago)

Post #2295 Adding the missing slingshot spotlights Posted by Lhyrgoif (2 years ago)

Post #2312 Version 2.0 custom code announcement Posted by applejuice (2 years ago)

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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider phillyarcade.
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#2017 2 years ago

New to the club! A pin I always wanted to add to the collection just never found the right deal. Well I finally got that great deal on one! Sat for many many years in a operators warehouse burred away but it is very clean with very minimal wear. Complete all original and untouched. Looks like someone may have shopped it out at one point. Was also working at one point. I got it home plugged it in and it booted up and just as it was about to come on it went dark and dead. Looks like all my LED's are on the main board in the bottom of the cabinet but it seems the PC is not even firing up. I can hear HV on the monitor. I'm guessing the PC will need a new power supply and caps. Just to confirm if nothing happens on power up that's the PC? Can't wait to bring it back to life and play it!

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#2019 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Welcome to the club, I hope you got it at a non working price. Wish I could help with your problem.

I got a steal of a non working price! It seems to be working fine now that I've plugged it in a few times. It will boot and just as the playfield lights up it will shut down. Does that about 3 or 4 times then it will boot and work without issue for good. Monitor need some caps and I'll pull the main board out and reflow it. Not sure if the boot issue is the PC or main board. Seems like bad caps cold solder joints the way it's acting. While it was alive I loaded it up with LED's I had in my spare kit. LED's make these games really pop! Played the hell out of it last night and love it. Plays like new there is no wear at all on this thing at all. The more I look at it the more I can't believe the condition. Menu says it's only got 77 plays on it! Looks like it was waxed from time to time over the years and taken care of. The flap is cracked slightly but I have a new one on order already. Other then that, she is cherry! I'm hooked!

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#2044 2 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

It's the flap in the middle of the playfield. The mechanism underneath rises up so that it then forms a jump ramp.

Planetary Pinball has the flaps in stock. Just bought one last night and it shipped today. Mine had a small crack in it.

#2046 2 years ago

Typical monitor in these? I'm buying a cap kit for it to freshen it up.

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#2066 2 years ago

It's cap kit Sunday! Strange how these operators worked.. Someone did some caps on this chassis but in places that didn't really matter much. The ones that were around heat and needed to be replaced they skipped right over them. Can't wait to get it back in and see how it looks. Always a good feeling when you cap out a monitor.

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#2069 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

That board is too clean... you had to have washed it or something.
I think I recapped everything myself... but noticed something similar.
I think I recall removing a couple of bulged caps on mine.
Just be careful when putting that board back... the neck of the tube is not a handle... neither is the neck board. yes; I'm speaking form experience.

I typically wash the boards with simple green, a brush, blast with the hose, and let them dry in the sun for a few days... but this is the cleanest one I've seen yet! I hardly got dirty capping it no less. This RFM is really clean. It shows 77 plays total and I'm starting to think that's all it had. It was owned by an operator and sat for many years but it's super clean inside. There is pretty much no wear at all on the PF and the PC is even cleaner looking. The caps were original and none were leaking or bulging. I'm always super careful around those necks! They snap easy! That hiss will make you sick!

#2076 2 years ago

Just to make a post here in case this happens to anyone else on their monitor for troubleshooting down the road. I have a K7300 series monitor (19K7302) in my RFM. The game is low plays and very clean but my monitor looked a little green so I figured I'd do a cap kit and go over the entire monitor as well. Cap kit went well and I re-flowed everything as well. Put it back in the game and I have no high voltage now along with no neck glow and just a slight tick tick tick sound coming from the chassis as it was trying to make high voltage but something wasn't right. Thought to my self the monitor worked fine before so it had to be the cap kit or something I did re-flowing it. Checked my work over and over and it was all perfect. So then I checked the HOT (Horizontal output transformer) and it was dead. Most likely what happened was my caps were dry and the values were dropping off on them so much over the years so this cause proper voltage to go where it hasn't been for years or was just weak before and took out my HOT. So just a simple cap kit can take it all out. I'm going to install a new HOT and I'm also going to toss in a new flyback as well so the thing is rock solid. I just wanted to pass this along to the group!

2SD1398 is the HOT and https://www.arcadeshop.com has them in stock along with flybacks

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#2078 2 years ago
Quoted from WolfManCat:

For those replacing the ramp flap, make sure you have rivet gun. It requires two small rivets, I think 1/8"
Also may need a deremel and a punch kit to remove the old rivets.
Just replaced mine a couple weeks ago. It was fairly easy but the rivets were unexpected.

That is this weekends project. I picked a flap up recently and was going to look into how to replace it. Looks like I need some tools!

#2080 2 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

who has the ramp flaps for purchase?.......mine works but looks bad

scroll up I posted it with a link...

1 week later
#2092 2 years ago

So my WG 19k7302 from hell update.... The monitor was working fine in my RFM but as I do with all my monitors I do cap kits in them to freshen them up. The tube was a little soft so I figured a cap kit might give me a little more juice. Took my time, very anal when it comes to cap kits, check the old cap, confirm polarity and value, then do them one at a time making sure no solder bridges or splatter gets anywhere. I've done hundreds of cap kits and never had a working monitor dead when I put them back. This chassis was super clean and I believe the pin has very low "on hours". I put it back in and all I get is click, click, click, with no high voltage or neck glow. So I get a flyback and HOT. Toss those in and still, click click click. These chassis are very tempremental. I guess up next play the game with the chassis plugged in and using a meter checking voltages. Anyone run into anything like this before? I re-flowed all solder joints, took my time made sure nothing is touching and also scrub the board down afterwards and check everything all around. All good and all perfect. This thing is making me nuts! Just curious if anyone else ran into this. I'm ready to just toss parts at this thing! Any information on these chassis are very hard to find on line. I've scanned the schematic in and put it on my site so I don't loose it I'll also share it here for reference.

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#2094 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Fromm's flowchart never fails

Thanks I'll give it a try! I'm at a wall at this point!

#2096 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Philly, do you have a CGA source that you can attach to the monitor?
IE so you can eliminate the rfm's Computer as the culprit?
I used Test Pattern Generator to verify my RFM monitor after I did a chassis swap. I know you proably don't need to spend another 89usd... but I figured I'd use mine to debug my Voyager monitor which is in a similar state.

I was thinking about doing that but it was working fine before I did the cap kit. I have a NOS 19" monitor in the box still I bought many years ago just before they stopped making/selling them so I think I'm going to toss that in the game just to eliminate that issue but it has crossed my mind to see if it's something with the game. I'm leaning towards a part was weak and the new caps just blew it up on me and the hunting game begins. Thankfully I have a friend who has worked on TV's all his life so I might have to reach out to him to have a look at this thing if I can't get it going.

#2097 2 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Fromm's flowchart never fails

I'm not sure this will actually work with my 19K7302 from what I've been reading there was a ton of 7300 series monitors and they are all different in many ways.

3 months later
#2214 2 years ago

LED translite upgrade. I bought a bunch of these LED strips that are mounted in a metal track from eBay many moons ago for my arcade games. Keeping the UV away from my artwork on my games is always a must. So I tapped of the 12V supply from the PC with a little molex connector and mounted it above the PC. I can slide the PC out with no issues. Pictures are a little blown out just due to LED's not being camera friendly but in person looks amazing. I've got a little splash around the monitor from them but I'm just going to get some thick black cardboard from a craft store and line the front of it. These LED's strips were like $3 bucks each shipped on eBay. Slight reflection on the PF but does not effect game play.

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#2215 2 years ago

Tech Question: If I power up my RFM the PC kicks on, I get the menu on the monitor, and about 2 seconds after it boots the table, boom goes dead. I turn the power supply switch off on the PC, wait a few seconds and turn it on and I get the same thing again. It will do this maybe 4 or 5 times and then it will boot and stay booted. I took the PC out and powered it on it's own and it will come on and run no issues. I replaced the monitor and reseated all connectors. Anyone run into this issue? Next up I'm going to cap the main board in the bottom of the machine as it sure seems like a cap issue. I'm not sure on the date for the PC power supply but it literally looks brand new. Thanks!

#2217 2 years ago
Quoted from Joe_Blasi:

I have seen PC MB's do odd stuff with weak bios battery and poor PSU's can also do odd stuff as well.

I keep thinking this is something with the PC but running it on the bench with no issues seemed odd. Non of the caps on the MB look bulged. The game itself looks so clean inside it don't look like it had much use. Seems like someone before me replaced the PC power supply thinking that was the issue. I ordered a new fan for the CPU as it's somewhat loud like they typically were but I'll keep poking around.

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1 year later
#3482 1 year ago

If you are still running the CRT is there a video amp still around to boost it up like the ultimarc? Or is that the only option? I'm seeing a dead link on their page for it. I did a cap kit on the monitor new flyback and hot and now it's running great it just seems weak. Before I rule out a weak tube, I'd like to try a video amp for it and keep my CRT a little longer. Thanks!

#3485 1 year ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

Looks like he moved the link, here it is: https://www.ultimarc.com/arcade-vga-and-video/arcadevga-accessories/arcade-monitor-video-amplifier/
Should get you the output you're looking for No RFM with a CRT should be without one.

Awesome thanks! Ordered! Yea I'm hoping this brings me some life out of that tube! It's really weak looking. Sometimes you get lucky with a cap kit but not this time. I've been stock piling parts for my RFM so I can shop it out finally. It's in great shape and I can't seem to stop playing it enough for a full shop out so I keep doing one part at a time and play it more

2 months later
#3587 9 months ago

Well time to shop mine out finally. The upper PF area I don't think was ever touched! Dirty. I also never seen all the pop bumper skirts wrecked like on this game. Is that common for this one? All the years I've been doing this I don't think I ever replaced a skirt because it was all chewed up like these. I had to install 2 new light harness's as well since I had to cut off the solid ones it came with. Time consuming job that's for sure. Should play nice and fast when I'm done. I did a mini shop and led treatment when I bought this one 2 years ago but never got into the upper PF. Just some busy work while we are all trapped in the house. I'm using my Harbor Freight cart works awesome for doing this. I can work under and on top of the PF at the same time. I also discovered one of the targets was missing! I found that floating around under the PF. Never even knew it was not in play. Any other tips or tricks shopping this one out feel free to share!

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#3594 9 months ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Just make sure you have the proper rubber kit - there is an earlier post I made that discusses that and details what is needed - most, if not nearly all, kits are wrong....in fact I can tell you have the wrong kit - the giveaway is behind the diverter it's not supposed to be a post rubber, it's supposed to be a ring - the effect of that is the diverter sits more wide open - and helps to induce missed hits on the MRS'.....

Thanks for the info. I actually didn't change that one yet. I got all new posts so I'm just pulling the post and adding new rubbers. I got the Marco rubber kit. I'm pretty sure no one ever shopped this one out so makes me wonder about that post behind the diverter!

#3601 9 months ago

Anyone have a spare back door for a RFM? Mine never came with one and before I make a new one I figured I'd ask in case someone has one laying around.

#3613 9 months ago

Cleaning up nice. Almost there.. That upper PF took some time to clean and assembly back properly. I already can't wait to play it! What was on the front of that ball catcher assembly? Was it mylar or something? Mine seems to be worn off.

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#3622 9 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Nice cleanup job looks great

Thanks! I'll be picking your brain next! I'm on game version 1.5 haven't tackled the battle of updating it yet!

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#3623 9 months ago
Quoted from robotron911:

Go get foam door seal in the proper width. Cut it to fit. It's easy and it is invisible while offering cushion so the ball doesn't get so beat up. A $5 fix.

Thanks! Great idea!

#3624 9 months ago
Quoted from maxrpm:

I used a strip of black Gorilla brand duct tape[quoted image]

Another good idea! I think I have some of that laying around

#3636 9 months ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I bought a sheet of black "ball drop dead" foam (about 3 mm thick), cut a strip fitting the ball catcher front, added double adhesive at the back of the foam and pressed it in place. It has been there for about two years now and lots of plays, still haven't fell of and no sign of wear.
Also, I like the fact that the ball drop straight down when hitting the front, instead of bouncing back like it did before I added the foam.
[quoted image]

Nice! That works as well really good. I'm trying the foam for now see how that works. I guess anything is better than flinging a pinball into a piece of metal!

#3637 9 months ago

Well she's all done for now. Chipped and broke a plastic here and there. Very brittle! I played a few games and it's crazy fast now! I couldn't even keep track of the ball at times. It was hitting shit I never seen it hit before. I loved using my Harbor Freight cart to assist getting it in and out of the cabinet. No back breaking here. Next up the monitor mod to brighten it up or if that don't work LCD time. I did a cap kit, flyback, and hot on my monitor so far along with rebuilding the power supply on it and it's still a little soft.

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#3639 9 months ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

You need to fix those flippers... that’s not the correct alignment. Align them with the inline ball guides.

I used a nail in the holes in the PF and aligned them with no rubbers on the bats. That's how I've always aligned my flippers?

#3641 9 months ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

I always align with the inlanes. There are very few exceptions where that is not the ideal position. When in doubt, check the flyer for what position the mfg is shipping them at.

I tend to do that as well. My No Fear has no holes at all on the PF. I lined them up with the inlanes and it wound up being to low and I could hardly make any shots with too much aggressive play in the flipper area. If you look at my pics you'll see where they were originally lined up but I saw the holes there and broke out my nail and adjusted them that way. Play is a little different then before.

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