Revenge From Mars
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Quoted from Pinfidel:
My RFM only has sound rom version 1.2 installed. There are some hilarious call outs. How many other call outs and what sound changes have been made from version 1.2 to 1.6? That's a lot of updates versions ahead. I just hope if I go through (from what I understand) all the considerable aggravation to upgrade the sound, it only add to the call outs and sounds and doesn't remove any of the ones installed now.
There were no sound changes made after 1.2.
Oh cool. Thanks for that info. I know you "could" upgrade it to v1.6, just didn't know what they would've added. Gotta tell ya, some more Clinton call outs woulda been awesome. I crack up during Alien Abduction. "Take the first lady, but leave my truck." LOL "Save the interns." LMAO!!!
When you upgrade the game code to 1.6, the sound version stays at 1.2 (since there were no changes to the sound after that). You do want to upgrade to the latest game code for the bug fixes.
I have a few more sets of RFM sling protectors for sale. These are laser cut PETG. I've designed them so they can be installed without having to pull the saucer light wires out. Price is $15 shipped per set.
I also have a used set of RFM slingshot plastics in decent condition (see pic below) that someone can add to their order for and additional $10.
And I have some NOS RFM key fobs. Again, +$10 each.
Protector installed:
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:
Interested in where you got 1.6 software.
Thanks,
Chris
I made the Update Manager packages for RFM 1.6 and SWE1 1.5 about 8 years ago. They should still be floating out there on the net somewhere.... I'll see if I can find a DL link. If not, I can send you the file.
OK, you'll find a couple links here that are still active:
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/-D6HXWN8m0Y
Post edited by mattosborn: added link
Quoted from altan:
What's in 1.6?
It looks like the "official" site only goes up to 1.5.
I thought 1.7+ was for tournament stuff... but not clear about 1.6.
1.6 was the last official release.
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/4446/Bally_1999_Revenge_From_Mars_ROM_Revision_History.txt
Quoted from embryon:
No I don't even know if it has any. How do you get info onto it in the first place?
You need a Windows computer with an ISA slot to program the PUB card. Why would you buy a PUB card if you had no idea what to do with it? 
Another Pin2k 101 question...
How do I get the PC case to tilt out? I see it's on those sliders, but pushing it forward/back or up/down doesn't seem to release it from some locking mechanism. Probably something obvious, but in the 5 minutes I had to check it out ... well ... I didn't figure it out.
Also, what's the big button coming out of the case toward the translite? Is that some sort of reset button?
... Altan
You should be able to lift it up a little bit then pull it forward and down. Unless someone has secured it with a zip tie or something. IIRC, the locking mech for the translite can get in the way too....
The red button on the front of the computer is just another power switch (so you can power down just the computer and leave everything else running).
Are other RFM owners using these settings? I highly recommend it!
Yes, I read about those settings back when I first got my machine and upgraded the software (I think they were introduced in v1.3, same time they added ball save, and my machine had v1.2 on it when I got it). Definitely adds some flow.
I'll need to try that one out. I generally like ball saves but they can make a game too easy sometimes...
IIRC, the ball save time is adjustable. IMO, it's nice to have a little ball save.
Quoted from lurch:
Its a Wells Gardner. Totally possible the chassis board was replaced. The holes do not match up with the holes in the support bracket. Ill try to get a better shot tonight.
Someone has put a new/different monitor in there. I would have drilled new holes to mount the chassis... but hey, if zip ties are doing the trick, I'd probably leave it (unless I was pulling the monitor out to work on it, then I'd feel compelled to fix it while I had it out).
Stickers show: Wells Gardner 19k7302
Look on the electronics chassis (the part that is zip-tied in) for a model number (not the frame or tube). That remote adjustment board does not look like the one that came with the K7302. May be another WG in the K7000 series though.
Quick Question...... gotta bunch of fuses blown on my RFM. All appear to be 4amp fast acting fuses..... manual says nothing about fa or slo-blo. What should be in this thing?????
In the manual you will see them listed with a "T" prefix. That stands for Time delay, AKA slow-blow.
Quoted from awarner:
mattosborn: What's the problem? This is not an inappropriate post! I didn't provide incorrect information.
Hey Al, the downvote simply means I don't agree with your post. Some of your points are valid (it certainly is lighter with an LCD in it!), but some things around reliability (the computer, Prism card concerns, CRT vs LCD) we have a difference of opinion on. But what made me hit the downvote was your comment on black level, which is incorrect. A properly adjusted CRT will have better black level than any LCD monitor. You would have to use a very high end LED backlit panel before you would even come close.
Quoted from Eddie:
Something not addressed in the CRT/LCD debate is the fact that the animations were drawn to compensate for the curvature of the CRT face.
I've heard this mentioned before, but I highly doubt this is the case. There is very little aberration due to CRT curvature... not enough to bother with any kind of correction.
Quoted from Crashnburn:
Legs on one are shorter.
I think the legs on one are taller. 
Quoted from wayout440:
So what am I looking for after getting the 9 modes? I thought it was supposed to enter the "Attack mars" final sequence, but it cleared all the mode achievement lamps and went back to Alien Abduction. Seems I missed something.
You didn't earn enough saucer lights.
So then it clears everything you've accomplished and you need to start over?
No, you keep your saucer lights. You'll have to get through the modes again if you want to start Attack Mars.
I think you also need to get Mothership Multiball before you can start Attack Mars. That's not too hard... you just have to do fairly well on the Bonus Wave multiballs to get that started.
Quoted from pumpkinlad:
Definitely some game play differences I am noticing between this and a 1.6 machine, I wonder if this is the earliest version of the game as I doubt there was a 0.0 and if I should preserve it for future generations.
Your 0.1 code will remain preserved. P2K updates work by applying patches to the code contained on the ROMs. The ROMs themselves never change. So you can always revert updates and get your original 0.1 code back.
Quoted from MustangPaul:
Hi guys, what is this power plug on the service outlet called? Where would I be able to get a converter adapter plug for a normal 2 prong plug for it. Thanks
IIRC, an adapter cord was provided in the "goodie bag". I'm guessing yours is long gone though....
Quoted from drjbeyer:
Hi All,
Kind of an elementart question, but can someone tell me what the spotlights are supposed to be focused on? 2 on the left sling and one on the right. I assume on the bouncing martians, but why 2 on the left and only 1 on the right?
Thanks!
There should be only two spotlights total, each one pointing at the nearest Martian.
I have a third one too, it's black like the other 2 and it's riveted to the plastic just to the left under the ramp. Looks stock to me.
Yeah, I have that too. But that one has a fixed direction (there are posts on each side of it), so it doesn't seem relevant to his question. And he said "two on the left sling", which he shouldn't have.
Quoted from iEatHands:
4. The pop pin which captures the ball during the cut scenes doesn't drop on it's own, typically needs a flip of a flipper and it drops and releases the ball, is this how it is meant to be? I played one on location and it had the same behaviour.
The pin on mine automatically comes down. But I have played a couple others where it doesn't go down until you to hit a flipper. Maybe there is a setting for this? Or default behavior was changed in an update? What version are you running? I'm on 1.6.
Quoted from Alamo_Pin:
I am running version 1.2 and can't find the ball save feature anywhere in the adjustments. Do I need a more recent update?
Yes, ball save was added in version 1.3.
Quoted from Zitt:
I think I stopped at 1.5... and didn't upgrade to 1.6.
I don't remember why specifically... it may have had something to due with a bug which prevented a network card from working... or an actual bug.
Network cards work fine with 1.6. Very little change from 1.5, but no reason not to go with 1.6 that I am aware of. Some people think you need a Pub card to get 1.6, but that is not the case. I made a package compatible with the Update Manager software years ago.
Quoted from aerobert:
Yes, his fixture must be wired up with 12V or something from somewhere else. He originally stated he didn't need to modify anything which is false. He fails to mention anything about his installation.
They do make direct drop-in LED replacements for fluorescent tubes (so they run off ~110V). However, a couple products linked to in this thread are not that... and perhaps that's why some people had trouble.
Quoted from mdeslaur:
How is everyone storing the playfield while not in use? Is anyone storing it standing up?
I always thought it would be cool to hang it from the gameroom ceiling (four hooks holding the service rails).
Ok guys I need your help I think I fucked up..
I was getting some restarts due to what looked like some issue with my game code as some images were showing as static nonsense during gameplay which then caused the game to restart.
I thought it would be smart to try disable the update and re-enable it.. now I'm stuck on 0.1 code and can't re-enable my 1.5 code...
Anyone else dumb enough to do this and found a fix?
The game is unplayable now. It keeps triggering one of the coils and doesn't recognise when the balls drain.
Thanks
You have to update it to 1.5 (or better, 1.6) again with the P2K Update Manager.
Quoted from Coyote:
True, but I have NEVER seen a monitor without a 'fit' scaling mode in its menu.
Yeah, but it's that odd scaling that makes it look like crap.... Ideally, you want an LCD panel that has a native resolution that is a multiple of the source resolution. Actually, what you really want is a good CRT.... 
Quoted from jgecmd:
Thanks again. So it probably has nothing to do with being a German version. Maybe a later model? The video board is in a different location. Any insight?
Someone has replaced the original monitor with a different one (a Hantarex). You can put any 19" standard res monitor in there. You just have to transplant it into that funky P2K frame.
I think my friends is DIY'd in with a wood frame (pain in the ass, but cheap)
Manufactured frame you can buy
http://lockwhenlit.com/products.htm
I was talking about the CRT frame. I would never put an LCD in an RFM.
Quoted from mtbpinball:
- the shorter Playfield -
Common misconception (likely due to the shorter cabinet size). Yes, the playfield is a couple inches shorter than a modern Stern. But it is also longer than many, including Williams System 11 (which no one would call “short”).
Here’s a good list of playfield sizes: http://pinballmakers.com/wiki/index.php/Playfield_Sizes
Uuh.. When, exactly, do they think WPC (originally WPC-89) came out?
Yeah, looks like they pulled that data (and the WPC date error) from this thread: http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=2762
I think it's safe to say that WPC playfield length is generally 46".
Quoted from acitti:
Hoping someone can help guide me in the right direction. I have a SWE1 with a bad monitor. I want to build a Nucore or Pinbox computer to switch out the original computer and upgrade the monitor to a led lcd monitor. I have read a lot of posts about the good and the bad of each software but the installation is very confusing and cannot be found all in one place. I currently have a suitable computer to use. I have Ubuntu 8.04 LTS installed on it. I have the original install disk from Nucore from when I’m told it used a license USB key. I have the new free upgrade version 2.25. What I do not know is how to make it all work without the USB key. If someone knows how to do this, help would be appreciated. I do not have any of the pinbox software, I’m told this would make things a lot easier to install. If there is another forum that has this information please point me in the right direction. Thanks.
Much less work and hassle to just repair or replace the monitor.
Quoted from Zennmaster:
Hmm, things just got a bit interesting.
The image on my RFM was a bit too wide, and shifted a bit to the left. I removed the translite, and discovered that the remote pots that were supposed to be there weren't. I investigated a bit further, and discovered that, despite the big "Ducksan" on the label on the monitor frame, the chassis was, in fact, a Kortec KT-2001SF.
This actually helped explain another issue I've been having: on power-up, when the boot sequence gets to the white background, the display appears to collapse into a single horizontal line, then gradually starts to sync. It's still flickering when the sequence returns to a black background, and then settles down. It's not too big an issue, and it goes away after the game has been on for a few minutes.
That's the bad news.
That's actually the good news. That Kortek is a far better monitor. Sounds like whoever hooked it up may have made a mistake with the sync wiring though. I would start by going over that work.
Quoted from sawbill:
The playfield glass has a special coating on the bottom side. Make sure the coating and glass are not badly scratched. I’m not sure how easy it would be to source a new playfield glass.
The coating is actually on the top side. Good advice though... replacing that glass is expensive.
Quoted from ForceFlow:
Does anyone know anything about version 1.9? I got my hands on a PUB card for this version.
From what I can tell, it was released in November 2017. Supposedly, it has additional call-outs and animations that were present in prototype versions of the software, but didn't make it into the 1.0-1.6 versions that most people are familiar with.
Where is that information from?
I noticed it also had a build from February 2018, but I'm not sure if that was supposed to be version 2.0 or a rescued copy of version 0.2 (if it ever existed).
That is v0.2, but not for RFM. Note how the game number is 50072 and not 50070. It's Wizard Blocks.
I have almost finished a new Nucore install in my RFM, and now that I have the PC running, my image on the CRT is offset slightly to the left (I already fixed a resolution problem, that I will post about separately, along with the other issues I ran into and solved along the way). The pot switches don't fix the issue, and I saw a few posts that say this issue can be fixed by pushing the "sync" button on the Wells Gardner monitor. The problem is that I don't know where this button is physically located. Can anyone please describe, or better yet, take a picture? Is it at the top, or on the back, or elsewhere? I don't like mucking around near high voltage, so if anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd really appreciate it! Thanks in advance.
There is no "sync button"... but there is a toggle switch on the chassis for selecting between negative and positive sync. That's probably what they're talking about.
That sounds promising, but now I'm going to ask the stupid question -- can you please tell me - exactly - where it is? I can't find anything that appears to be a toggle switch or a button. I'm sure I'm looking right past it or over it. I have no problem finding the remote pot switches, and I can see the other pots at the "top" of the tube, near the neck. There is a circuit board on the "back" of the tube too, but I did not see a switch, when looking at it from the sides of the rear backbox. I also don't see anything from the front (behind the translite). Again, possibly because I don't know what I am looking for. I appreciate any guidance that you can give as to how to access this switch!
I don’t have one here to check, but IIRC, it’s on the chassis (main board) near the input connector.
Thanks - any tips on how to (safely) access the mainboard?
You should be able to reach in there from the back... no need to remove anything. Do it with the game off, of course. If you are worried about high voltage, leave the game off for a day (it will self-discharge).
I would still manually discharge it just in case
He’s not going to be working on the chassis.... All he has to do is flip a single toggle switch, nowhere near any HV.
Thanks everyone for the info. I gurss i shouls clarify about the updating. I know we can download v1.6 and get it on a pub card or upload it ourselves to the game, but does anyone know where to get v1.8 or 1.9 other than a PUB card? Can we copy ot off a pub card or from a machine that has it installed? Do we know what cganges are all on those updates?
1.6 is the last legit release. Just go with that. AFAIK, nobody is currently running an online tournament server, so I don't see the point in installing those hacks.
Quoted from gearheaddropping:
Basically, does the "daughter" card hold the update?
Unfortunately, no. The updates are held on the main part of the prism card. That's another reason it's nice to have two prism cards if you are going to swap often.
Quoted from Guari777:
I did post a picture of it from the back along side the original translite. It’s on the right side in this picture. I believe it is screen printed on glass.
That doesn't look right....
Quoted from bob_e:
How often should you replace the watch battery ( CR2032 ) on the CPU mother board in the head ?
A fresh battery should last at least 10 years. Note that there is also another coin cell battery on the Prism card (different size though; 2325).
Quoted from j_m_:
you need to carefully separate the 2 halves of the prism card to remove and replace the battery. note that it is a BR2325 battery
One thing you can do to make it easier the next time is reverse the battery holder so it is on the solder side. Then it is on the outside of the card, so you don’t have to separate the card again.
Quoted from Yesh23:
I just joined the club and swapping all my gi lights over to led and noticed about 10 plus bulbs that had red condoms on them. Was this factory?
Yes.
What you really want to do is replace that dinky little heatsink with something substantial. This is the heatsink/fan combo I put in a couple P2K machines:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835150010
Unfortunately, that particular one is no longer available. Cost was $10 + $5 shipping.
It just barely fit in there though!
Is it that the stuff that hardens? If so, that isn't the same stuff as the CPU thermal paste.
No, it’s not supposed to harden....
Quoted from applejuice:
Visit https://mypinballs.com
Update notes: https://www.mypinballs.com/software/rfm/code_updates.jsp
Please consider donating if you like this software. Donations help support this and our other many pinball projects.
Happy Easter
Updated, and donated! Keep up the good work!
If you have any tech details for the DIY crowd on how to hook up the shaker (and knocker) that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!
Quoted from dashv:
I think a piece is missing from mine. It doesn’t register shots that travel that ramp.
Your microswitch is missing its actuator arm.
Every time I see pictures of an RFM with ugly fender washers on the slingshots it makes me sad....
Refer to this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-hillary-come-here-you-gotta-see-this/page/6#post-2177458
Only 5 sets left.
Quoted from Ricochet:
I’m still having intermittent issues with the playfield lamps blanking every so often. It doesn’t always happen ... inconsistent from boot to boot. Once in a while it runs perfectly. The problem when it occurs is you hear the relay click and just momentarily all the lamps go out...they barely go out... it’s a real fast momentary event.
Driving me nuts !!! I want to find out what this is... it may be something running in the background...but I checked and nothing is jumping out at me. I’m running this on a Dell OptiPlex 780 Core 2 Duo, 3.3 GHz
[quoted image]
Mine does the same thing, and I'm running original hardware, so I doubt your problem is related to Nucore. I'm guessing the relay is worn out and needs to be replaced. Just haven't got around to replacing it to test that theory.
Nope ... definitely doesn’t do this on my machine with the original hardware... but I still like that nugget of info.
Strange.... Mine occasionally stops doing it after it warms up.
Quoted from Ahoernchen:
This symptome always occurs if you haven't installed the networkcard but set the IP adress in communications!
Just blank them or install the SMC networkcard and it should not happen any more.
Thank you! I did have a network card and removed it quite a while ago. Never thought that would be related to the problem... what a weird bug.
First I tried setting the IP address to None. That didn't have any immediate effect, so I figured I needed to power cycle. I did so, and it wouldn't boot!!! Tried several times. So I dug out an SMC network card and put it in, then it would boot again. But the relay clicking was still there. So I went back in to settings and set the IP address again. Now it seems to be happy. No more relay-clicking/light-flickering! I guess the network card is staying in there permanently....
BTW, if anyone needs an SMC network card for their P2K, I've got three more left. Two are NIB, and one is used.
Quoted from Midway-Man:
Funny thing is. The relay does not even control the GI. Since there is not even GI on P2k games. All lamps are matrix lamps.
The relay is just for the interlock system which turns off the HV (coil and flash lamp power) while the coin door is open.
Yeah, it is odd that the relay causes all the lights to flicker.
Can anyone tell me what the heck these things are???
Those look like coin entry plates that only allow special tokens to be used.
Yup that was my first thought ... but the shape of the slot didn’t make sense to me... especially for a round token.
Double slotted security token:
https://e-service.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/products-21511600_metal_token-e1529583940251.jpg
Quoted from Clytor:
I had a broken one too. I took it to a sign shop and they were able to scan it and create a new one. I just had him do it in black plastic because it's mostly in a dark area and would make fabrication much simpler. I found a picture of it online, adjusted it to scale, and took that with what was left of my broken plastic.[quoted image][quoted image]
Hmmm.... I could 3D print those in glow-in-the-dark green plastic. Anyone interested?
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:
Whoa.. this worked on original hardware without a sync adapter or CGA converter?
Quoted from mastercello:
Exactly, also it fits right into place...perfect dimensions!
Weird that it would sync down to CGA... the specs don't claim that. It is on this list though: http://15khz.wikidot.com/
Quoted from Irishbastard:
Curious, noticed this saucer always moves when the ball is on the ramp, so checked it out. Is this just a normal green plastic strobe cover or do I need an entire saucer? ( I assume it's just a normal strobe cover but figured I'd ask)
It's a normal green flasher dome that gets glued to the saucer.
I think there was a foam pad attached to the front of the ball catcher.
It's not foam... just a thin plastic.
Quoted from PhillyArcade:
I used a nail in the holes in the PF and aligned them with no rubbers on the bats. That's how I've always aligned my flippers?
I always align with the inlanes. There are very few exceptions where that is not the ideal position. When in doubt, check the flyer for what position the mfg is shipping them at.
Quoted from Sonic:
Out of curiosity I would assume using a PUB would still be quicker than via a PC either way right?
Not when you need to program the PUB first.
I don't think it makes sense to talk about a "typical life" of an electrolytic capacitor. Way too many factors there to generalize.
I can tell you that the caps on that board are shitty... made back when the cheap caps were using a bogus electrolytic formulation. Replacing them is wise, but keep in mind it is not easy, due to these being multi-layer boards with large power/ground planes. You need to use the right equipment (or find someone who does).
If you don't replace them, then someday your game will not boot. You'll open it up and likely find those caps bulging, and then you'll have to replace them. Very unlikely that they will just burst out of the blue.
Quoted from pinballfan2000:
I have never seen payback time in RFM
Play better!
Quoted from Pozzest01:
Help. I can't find where this connector goes. It has a solid brown wire, green with yellow stripe, and a solid blue.
The colors are indicative of AC power. Could be for a DBA.
DBA? Not familiar with that abbreviation.
Dollar Bill Acceptor.
45 min later lol..
You need to crank up the baud rate! I always have it set to the max.
Quoted from MrMikeman:
Cause it's more expensive(and time consuming) to find/buy a PUB and getting shipped to me, ship to and pay someone to program it then ship it back to me.
There is no need to buy a PUB card. For code that is now getting frequent updates, it makes no sense to own one. Update over serial takes just a few minutes, and you don't even have to crack open the computer case (like you would with the PUB card).
Hello everyone. Im hoping someone can just verify my thoughs are correct before I try to update my RFM to 2.21.
Ive got a very stock RFM Machine(original computer and all). I have previously updated the code on this machine using an old computer and null modem db9 cable and the existing pb2k update program(I think I got it off planetary pinballs website). Can I just download the latest 2.21 code from mypinballs.com and using the same computer and cable setup as before, update my game to 2.21?
Thank you for the help,
-Tom
Yes. That is exactly what I do.
excellent. Thank you! Also just use the same program as I did 2 years ago when I updated?
Yes. I've always used the same old P2K Update Manager. If you're using the same old computer you used before, you should be fine.
Quoted from Lithonion:
That's the wrong standoff. You need the longer one. Here is a pic from the shop out images but it shows the standoff you need.
There's another standoff below that long one (between the ramp and the slingshot).
Hello Guys
Have a strange graphic glitch, after my RFM working for about 3 hours, seems affect all graphics in game too.
I would start by replacing the heatsink/fan on the CPU.
Quoted from Torre:
Thanks. I saw a picture of a white board with pots on it behind the backglass but mine does not have this. I'm thinking maybe the monitor may have been replaced. There is some weird looking board in the back though that looks like this. No pots though.[quoted image]
Wells-Gardner D7700 digital-control monitor. Press the OSD button.
That was it. Thanks!
So my monitor must have been replaced at some point with an Orion A48JLL40X46 arcade monitor and the stock adjustment board is gone.
The one I have is easier to use though. I moved it to the front (long cable) so I could adjust while looking at the monitor. I turned the brightness way down and increased the contrast a bit and it looks so much better.
Thanks again,
Mark
Orion is just the tube manufacturer. Wells-Gardner made the monitor. It's a much better model than what originally came in the game. Congrats!
Quoted from TicTacSeth:
Might not be what you’re looking for, but taking cues from my Spiderman, I put in some spotlights to shine on the martians and send some light across the playfield. I originally pointed them directly at the martians for brightness there and into the corner, but 1) then the middle of the playfield was super dark and 2) it kept the top where the screen needs to reflect darker as well.
Spotlights sit next to the saucers , attached through the ramp on the slings.
On all of the RFMs I've seen, there are already spotlights there. They are elevated a bit though (with a hex post).
Oh really? And here I thought I was being clever haha. Yes, I have had it in mind to add a post to pick them up a bit higher.
Yeah, they're pretty tall, like 1.5" maybe. Probably don't need to be that tall.
Flyback for the Wells Gardner K7302 can be bought here: https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/monitors/monitor-flybacks/dnf-fa2019-wells-gardner-k7300-series-19-monitor-flyback/
Ducksan? Who cares? That chassis is garbage. Once that dog goes bad just replace it with a better chassis. Even one of those cheap universal chassis would be better.
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