(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"

By kjm8888

5 years ago

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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #2093 Wells Gardner K700 troubleshooting flow chart Posted by snakesnsparklers (1 year ago)

Post #2187 Links to updating the game code using windows 7 Posted by ForceFlow (1 year ago)

Post #2295 Adding the missing slingshot spotlights Posted by Lhyrgoif (12 months ago)

Post #2312 Version 2.0 custom code announcement Posted by applejuice (11 months ago)

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#79 5 years ago

Well i'm in (sort of), machine is on the way and can't wait to get hold of it, will post some pics when the mother ship arrives

#83 5 years ago

The Mother ship "landed" today and for the money i paid i'm really stoked ($2900 Aus dollars). The machine is in quite good condition, not the best i've seen but surely not the worst. Cabinet is in good shape, no broken plastics/ramps, decals still good, translite perfect and the playfield is excellent apart from a little wear around the stroke of luck hole. After playing it all afternoon i have noticed that sometimes it has a quick glitch in the volume (very brief, bit like static, but louder than the regular volume) but apart from that it's all good. First order of business is to update the software as it's still running version 1.1 and then some Leds all round. Not quite taken with the yellow T- moulding so might change that too. I did come across a mod site once that were selling Led saucers with a multiple choice of patterns for the green Led's but cant seem to find it again!!. Anyone got any ideas for mod's, etc??

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#85 5 years ago

Yes it could be, can it be turned off??

#94 5 years ago
Quoted from arpman:

Plenty of ideas to work with.

Thanks arpman for your tips and the links. I understand what amplifying something means but i'm just curious as to what benefits the video amplifier has?

1 week later
#96 5 years ago

OK, being new to this machine i'm not familar with it's quirks as yet. If i leave my RFM turned on for a length of time the monitor seems to turn itself off (goes dark, even if i start a game). The game still plays as per normal though and if i turn the machine off and back on, the monitor comes back on as per normal. Is this some kind of power saving feature?? or is my monitor or something else going dodgy??. Any help would be greatly appreciated, even to the point of some Home Brew Honey Bourbon Hand Out's

#98 5 years ago

Right, scratch part of my question on the previous post, there is Definitely something wrong with the monitor or associated parts. I dont know enough about this machine to track it down though. It does this :- after turning the game on and the initial boot all seems fine, sometimes there is a clicking noise and this manifests on the screen as what i can only describe as "Ripples", after a short while (and the time varies), the screen goes dark. Nothing is affected with the game play so it's all about the monitor. It's almost like a dodgy starter in a fluoro!! Anyone had this problem before??

#101 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinfidel:

The first thing to do when experience monitor problems is usually a full chassis cap kit. That solves like 75% of all monitor problems. After that, I'd replace the flyback.

Good luck.

Thanks Pinfidel, any idea where i can get a chassis cap kit from to suit these monitors?

#107 5 years ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

Mancave - What monitor do you have in your machine? I may be able to help you out

Hi Silverunicorn, it's a Wells Gardner 19K7302, i have tracked down a cap kit for it and ordered, just gotta wait to get it and then do the discharge bit !!

#136 5 years ago

I tried ordering one of those led tubes, the site said it couldnt be posted to Aus

1 week later
#209 5 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

for me the problem was the total length. I don't think that mine was able to make a good connection with the connectors inside of the ballast because it was too short.

This is just a crazy idea, but couldn't you "slot" the holes where the ends screw to the main metal part so they can be moved inwards further, hence reducing the gap??

1 week later
#214 5 years ago

Hi Guys, Firstly, can i say, Pinfidel, TY mate, i very much appreciate you taking the time and FAITH, to buy, and then send the LED tube BEFORE getting any payment from me, that's bloody awesome. The tube turned up (bubble wrapped enough to survive a mini nuke) and it is EXCELLENT. The difference between the fluoro is quite noticeable and, of course, the LED tube will be far better physically on my translite (all the more reason being a new translite). There was a slight difference in size (as has been pointed out by some people on here), but i put that down to good Ol' Chinese construction (it is getting better let's be real, Japanese produced electronics were once ridiculed as shite too). It is sad to hear to that some people that bought these tubes had failures but i can only guess that these people were just unlucky. I must also point out that i agree entirely with Pinfidel that if you bend the ballast ends in (the metal part), it will fix the problem with the gap between the tube ends. I personally just got a bit anal with it and felt that "maybe" doing this "may" change the angle of the ballast contact points so my solution was this :-
I used my trusty Dremel tool and cut off the end (on the right side) close to (or just in from) the inner point, trimmed the cut off part flush, and then Mig welded it back on, about 5-6mm in total (but i recommend measuring your original fluoro up against the LED tube and noting the difference in size between the outside of the pins). That's about it really, if you don't have access to a mig welder then i also think you could glue a plastic spacer to the back of one ballast, but you would need to leave a small "cut out gap" at the back so the plastic "pin" can seat behind it. I will just point out that bending the ballast ends in should work just as well, it came down to my own "preference" in the end. I have attached some pics, but ask any questions if you guys need to !!

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#215 5 years ago

I'm not sure if something is missing from my machine, but the key lock to the left of the coin door doesn't seem to serve any purpose at all. The cam inside doesn't actually lock into place anywhere. I assumed it was to stop the lockdown bar ratchet from moving but the cam on mine doesn't touch the mechanism or slot into place anywhere at all. What's the go guys?, has something been removed or changed on my machine that i'm not aware of?

#218 5 years ago
Quoted from boogies:

That key was for routing operators to leave with the establishment personnel. If a ball got stuck, they could use that key to releas the lockbar, remove glass, and clear any stuck balls as needed. The playfield could NOT be opened, so money was still safely locked up.

I agree, it does make sense and after reading your explanation, the reason why mine was just spinning uselessly around and making no contact became clearly (and embarassingly obvious) The lock down bar handle had been bent inwards towards the back of the cabinet, hence not making any contact. Easiest fix in pinball history (well, mine, anyway). TY

1 month later
#232 5 years ago
Quoted from MAJRob:

Hey everyone!! My family and I are stoked to be a member of this club. I traded me DE Star Wars for this pin and we have not been able to turn it off. I have cleared all errors except two.

Check lamp matrix B - it has all LEDs

Check drop target switch/coil

I haven't had my machine for that long myself but i recall reading a post about the lamp matrix error before. From memory, the machine will do this when regular bulbs have been changed to LED's and won't effect the machine. As for the drop target switch error, i have seen something about this before too but can't remember the reason behind it.

1 month later
#251 5 years ago

Bit of an update on my machine. FINALLY got the monitor problem sorted and machine is back to normal operation. The flyback transformer on the chassis was knackered and i got super lucky by picking up a NOS chassis board I've got a bunch of bits on the way, including, updater card from Rob @ Lockwhenlit (should be here in the next few days), some pretty cool looking target decals, and a spaceship topper (it's for an AFM, but i'm hoping i can still use it), the same saucer mod as Toucanf16, some modded martians and last but not least some Galaxian green T-molding to replace that yellow (i unashamedly stole/borrowed/copied that idea from Pinfidel ) I will post a pic or 2 when it's all attached.

1 month later
#253 4 years ago

Pics or it didn't happen!!, and here they are >>> to revise :- Updated to version 1.6, some NICE target decals (although the set didn't include enough for all the targets more to be ordered), spaceship topper (which was super easy to adapt for this machine), those TASTY saucer mods (from pinsider applejuice), modded jiggling martians and the Galaxian Green T molding (which i thank Pinfidel for giving me the idea )

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#255 4 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Where did you get those, and any other thoughts on them?
They look great!

From a guy on Fleabay (from the US), i quite like them, they are a tad oversize for the targets but i haven't had any issues so far. They are also thicker than most target decals but i haven't noticed any difference in the the game play (as far as weird bounce off the targets, etc). The only gripe is there wasn't enough decals in the set to do all the targets.

4 weeks later
#282 4 years ago
Quoted from Esoteric_rt:

Main issue is that the original glass is not there....is it actually possible for a local glass company to reproduce the tinted glass...or any other solutions?

The glass is a special reflective type which is available still (about $250-$300) depending where you get them from. You should be able to get them from a glass company but the price would still be comparable i would think.

#284 4 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

I'm not sure if you're planning a trip to that "other" island

It's one BIG island !!
but YEP Mark still has some in stock.

1 month later
#311 4 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

Has anyone found a way to update coding using a pc/notebook without a serial port. I never could get a usb serial cable to work. Is there a null modem usb adapter somewhere?

To be honest, it's far easier to do via PUB card, takes bugger all time !!

#329 4 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

I have a pub card but never have used it. How can you use this without a pc with an eisa socket to plug it in to? Or am I stuck without such an old pc?

If you have the original RFM PC unit in your machine then the PUB card fits into a vacant slot inside the metal box behind your translite (basically like a female JAMMA connector). Has your PUB card got the most recent update on it though?

#337 4 years ago
Quoted from dendoc:

Is it just me? I played RFM well before I played AFM, and I just can't get into AFM because of it. The call outs are the same, but no great animation to watch, and the shots do not seem to be as much fun. I know I'll get in trouble with the rest of the "real pinball" community, but just wanted to know if anyone else feels this way?

I've never played AFM, don't know anyone who's got one around here and SURE not spending MEGA bucks (9-10 grand Oz money) to find out how the 2 compare
On a side note, i LOVE my RFM and all my non pinhead mates who play it get stuck into it BIG TIME. Out of all my machines it's the one people play first and, usually, either stick with or come straight back to after dabbling with the others!!

4 weeks later
#414 4 years ago
Quoted from Pinfidel:

I bought a second one a month later for Mancave and mailed it to him in Australia. His worked no problem as well

And it's still working a treat mate!! TY again

#420 4 years ago
Quoted from jodini:

Speaking of "toppers" anyone find some flying saucer toppers for RFM? Been looking around on ebay and can't find much that would look good on this machine.

Like the one i've got on my machine? See pics on page 6 of this thread.

1 week later
#471 4 years ago
Quoted from lurch:

Ive been cleaning up the cabinet of my RFM and removed the back cover to clean everything and noticed that my CRT controller board is not really mounted but zip tied in place. I cant make heads or tales of how this should be mounted. Does anyone have a picture of the proper way this should be mounted?

I've got the Wells Gardner version in my machine and the chassis board is screwed to the two metal support rails at 4 places. If you've got a Ducksan, i'm not sure (not seen one myself) BUT i do doubt that would be factory fitted like that !!! It is possible that the chassis board in yours is not original, hard to be sure from the pic though. The support rails seem to be the right ones.

#488 4 years ago
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:

Question: Super Band Colors.

0. Yellow
1. Clear
2. Translucent-Orange
3. Translucent-Red
4. Translucent-White

*I am thinking either yellow or clear.

I've got green super bands on mine but black flippers. I'd go clear with the red flippers myself

#497 4 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

Got my monitor fixed today by my buddy and I have to say, fun game. Now it's time to make some mods

I'll be really interested to see what you come up with Design post haste PLEASE !!

2 weeks later
#547 4 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

I need some feedback on this. I made an Eiffel Tower for right behind the right Martian. It is made with glow in the dark material with a subtle UV lamp shining on it. It eerily glows when the playfield goes dark. The UV light is not finalized for positioning yet, so you won't see it when it's done.

Liking it so far. If you could light the whole tower, i agree, it would enhance the overall look. Where were you considering hiding the UV light?
Any other mods in the pipeline for RFM?

#571 4 years ago
Quoted from lurch:


I'm glad you highlighted this
I would also add >> MAKE SURE your free hand is NOT touching anything it can ground on, tuck it into a back pocket, whatever. It's only a precaution but a sensible one. Also be prepared for a noise (slight crack), which will occur if the monitor has been used within the last 12 hours or so (can vary). These CRT monitors do discharge if not used for some time and you may not hear anything at all but i still recommend doing this procedure twice.

#572 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Does the neck board come off?

For the neck board removal, pull back gently (at first anyway) without any lateral movement, this is to ensure you don't bend the pins!

1 month later
#696 4 years ago
Quoted from whthrs166:

Here is a pic of my two PB2Ks

They are sure JAMMED in that space

5 months later
#816 3 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

I'm babysitting an RFM and have yet to have a good game. My highest score so far is 300 mil. So today, I finally have a really good flow going, lots of ball control, making my shots, ball 1 and already at 74 mil (good start for me), and this happens. Crap.

WOW, gotta take the bowling balls out and just use regular pinballs
I've never seen this happen in all my time owning machines, but i do replace the bats when they get cracked though. That's an epic fail of the plastic that !!

3 months later
#891 3 years ago
Quoted from Playerone:

Has anyone done green t-molding on their RFM? I'm thinking of doing it and would like to hear thoughts.....

Yep i have, check out the pics on page 6 of this thread. Considering my machine had PUCE yellow T molding when i bought it the choice of Galaxian Green made a world of difference. I'm very bias when i say that i prefer the green over the stock red

2 weeks later
#936 3 years ago
Quoted from LoserKid3:

dark at the top of the playfield

I think it was dark on purpose, but don't quote me on it. Although the playfield glass is reflective at that end i'm not sure adding extra lighting would be the right thing to do.

4 months later
#1110 3 years ago
Quoted from drjbeyer:

Hi everybody,

Looking for a little help here - my game does not want to capture any balls - I think it has to do with the assembly (flap) that goes through the back part of the PF (vertical backboard) and there is a spring there that does not seem to be doing anything.

Thanks in advance!

Do you mean the metal pop up flap that balls launch off or the ball catcher assembly itself? The ball catcher switch may not be registering the hit from the ball. I found with my machine that over time the switch went out of whack and i needed to readjust it, it was basically on all the time instead of only activating when the ball hits the perspex and knocks the assembly back onto the switch.

1 week later
#1118 3 years ago
Quoted from drjbeyer:

Might you have a picture of what that should look like when it's in correct position? Thanks!

Sorry it took so long to get back to you, been flat chat busy lately on various projects. Take off the black plastic cover (2 screws) that sits behind the catcher assembly (pic 1) and then you can easily access the switch. The assembly should be in the correct position anyway as it has a spring that pushes it forward (bottom/middle on the 2nd pic). Have a good look at the mounted switch, does it have any broken wires? If the wiring looks ok, check to see if the switch activates (makes a clicking noise) when you manually push the top of the assembly back. If not, the tab on the switch is bent backwards somewhat, which will cause the switch to be on all the time and hence not register when the ball hits the assembly. There's usually not a great deal of play in the assembly, perhaps 1/4 of an inch at a guess. If the switch seems alright it may be a loose plug or the diode might be gone (doubt that one). You can also check in the switch test to see if it's working (switch number 75).

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#1121 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

???? You guys and your slang. Thanks for the help though.

LOL, you haven't heard the half of it MP Happy to oblige.

#1142 3 years ago
Quoted from Badamack:

1. How do I find out which monitor it is?
2. Can I adjust the brightness somehow as a stopgap until I can get the video amp parts?
3. Do 'caps' affect this? Of so which ones?
Thanks soldiers,

There is usually a label on the chassis board telling you which type (either Wells Gardner or Ducksan) and also my machine has a label behind the translite on the left strut that holds the fluoro tube. You will also find the brightness and adjustment controls in the middle behind the translite. YUP, caps can make a big difference to how good the image is (or not having an image at all) and that is all the caps on the chassis board. A full cap kit will replace all of them!! but you need to know your chassis type and number before getting a cap kit. There is another way to adjust brightness, although if you're not familiar with CRT monitors i advise EXTREME caution tinkering behind the monitor. The anode cap (rubber cap) is a BIG NO GO AREA and also the board attached to the neck of the CRT. Caps of course can and do hold charge as well. On the flyback transformer there are 2 black knobs, one adjusts brightness and the other is for focus. If the other brightness control makes little difference you can adjust the flyback brightness knob but only use small increments, just be bloody careful !!

#1171 3 years ago

Well that's made my mind up about the Led T molding, i'll pass on this option. Don't get me wrong, those machines look great, just too much red on the RFM for my personal preference and i think it's also the reflection off the blades that doesn't blow my hair back

#1206 3 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

I heard they can age just sitting like that and not used. I wonder if that's true.

That's more than likely MP. Arcade PCB boards don't fair well sitting around unpowered for long periods of time either. Daytona USA is one that comes to mind straight away, should be fired up at least every month!

1 week later
#1229 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Yeah read that too, I'm in for one... hope he runs a prototype contest too, that could be fun.

If he does....hmmmmm.........wonder what the odds are on winning twice?

#1233 3 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Green is the classic Martian color. All other colors are for UFOS of other alien species of other worlds. Gotta be green IMO.

Wonder how much the aliens get charged for getting their spaceships chromed

#1241 3 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

I'm in, and I'll be fighting chevettepaul for that prototype

The competition is ON .... before it's even been announced

4 weeks later
#1279 3 years ago

I was under the impression it's meant to be dark back there so the image is more easily seen from the CRT

3 months later
#1360 2 years ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

Just joined the club!

This pin is so much fun! The callouts crack me up every time and it's super cheesy which I love!

I've got the machine tuned up pretty good but there are a few questions I have.

1. I'm getting crazy airballs hitting the centre targets, anyway to fix this up?
2. My centre ramp flap doesn't sit flush with the playfield, any adjustment I can do to make it fit a little tighter?
3. 1/5 times the ball is bouncing back out of the centre ball trap i've seen people mention foam or padding being used to stop this, where should the foam go, i had a look at mine and there is no foam. What type of foam is best?
4. The pop pin which captures the ball during the cut scenes doesn't drop on it's own, typically needs a flip of a flipper and it drops and releases the ball, is this how it is meant to be? I played one on location and it had the same behaviour.

Cliffy protector for the SOL hole is on its way, mine is a little chewed up, other than that the play field is in awesome shape!


1. May be due to the foam behind the targets being worn although sometimes air balls just happen anyway.
2. Is it binding on anything? Check the mechanism to see if it's catching somewhere. As far as i know it's not adjustable, it's either up or down.
3.The catch assembly doesn't have foam anywhere that i know of. The whole assembly is spring loaded, when pushed back manually does it move freely? It should push back about 10cm (approx) and then return. Sometimes the ball can deflect off this in a weird way, pretty normal.
4. I agree with Zitt, i'm almost 100% positive that's how it's meant to be.

1 month later
#1462 2 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Heat gun makes it pretty easy.

Heat gun method works a treat Are you planning on keeping the same red T-molding? the machine looks good with Galaxian green

3 weeks later
#1520 2 years ago
Quoted from SpaceWar:

Ok - I googled RFM playfield pictures and I believe ypurchn is right - 97% of the pictures I found the flippers are white. Amazing, the number of years I've owned this game and never noticed that. Oh well. Learn something new every day. I'll order white flippers.

Just go with whatever colour pleases you I have black bats with green superbands mainly cause the green matches with my green T-Molding.

#1546 2 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

I've got the RGB Saucer Kit from myPinballs. I haven't seen anything better engineered. Depending on the build cycle you may have to wait a few months after putting your deposit down but it is worth it.

+ 1 from me. Cool Mod that's been engineered very well and options on saucer colours. That reminds me, must do the software update, need to borrow a lappy.

#1548 2 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

When was the software update? I just realized that I don't think I ever registered my kit.

Geeez, got me thinking now. It was a year or more ago i think, only been one update as far as i'm aware. I don't have a lappy, only a desktop and bringing the machine to the PC or visa versa is a pain in the arse

#1554 2 years ago

2 weeks later
#1600 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

Yes, his fixture must be wired up with 12V or something from somewhere else. He originally stated he didn't need to modify anything which is false. He fails to mention anything about his installation.

The one that Pinfidel added a link to was a drop in replacement and needed NO modifications, i got one myself (which Pinfidel kindly purchased and sent over to me), why some people bought these and had trouble with i have no idea, mine is still working fine after a few years. It is possible the specs were changed or perhaps some peoples machines were set up somehow differently, you wouldn't expect so BUT it does happen

1 month later
#1630 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

I'm missing the top back glass trim. I don't have the back glass in front of me. Anyone know the size or part number of the top trim?

I think it's just a standard one trimmed shorter isn't it?

1 month later
#1641 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I've been wanting to put my some of my Translucent PopBumper bodies on my RFM... but I haven't gotten around to it yet due to the monitor issues. Too many projects... too little time. I'm thinking the green body would look awesome.

Like the sound of those, would match my Galaxian green T-Molding nicely Just clicked on the link, international shipping available?

3 weeks later
#1652 2 years ago
Quoted from iEatHands:

Machine turns on fine and plays fine for a game or 2 then the screen image goes all messed up and then the flippers stop working. The music keeps playing fine though.

If it was just the image playing up on the CRT i'd suggest that the chassis board may need some work but that sure wouldn't effect the flippers

2 months later
#1756 1 year ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Did this myself, and it really is easy.


Another vote for this option, did this myself, easy to do and no stuffing around trying to upload from a lappy

1 month later
#1810 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

Looking at an RFM with a bad monitor. Comes with an LCD conversion kit. Has someone documented the process from mounting the bracket, lcd and installing adapters? Would love to find someone ho documented or made a video.

I'm still a big fan of keeping the machine CRT if at all possible, some will agree, some won't. Is the monitor itself bad? or the chassis needs repair? If you look back through this thread i'm pretty sure people have mentioned the process involved in changing the machine over to LCD/LED, and from what i remember reading it's not a majorly difficult job to do. Whatever you decide on it's an awesome, fun game

#1822 1 year ago

The focus adjustment is on the flyback transformer itself and generally speaking, if the screen doesn't become clear using this then the flyback is going/gone bad. I agree, CRT's can be scary but once you know the do's and dont's they aren't that bad to work on. I'm not sure if there is a replacement flyback for either the Wells Gardner or the Ducksan chassis so sounds like swapping to LCD may be the option if you can't find a chassis replacement.

#1827 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

is there a guide or tutorial on doing the LCD swap?

Mine is still CRT so i'm not the best person to guide you on that, but others in this thread have changed over so hopefully they can give you some tips.

#1828 1 year ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Look that it's even worse in real..

If you have tried adjusting the focus pot on the flyback (one of the 2 on there, the other is for brightness) and it doesn't make any improvement to the screen quality at all then i can only assume the flyback is bad. I had a Super Off Road machine that had a bad flyback, did exactly the same thing.

#1830 1 year ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Yep, what's the next step in your opinion ?
Repairing the board might be tricky

The monitor chassis could be repaired but i'm not sure if you can get a replacement flyback for that model, and from memory i can't recall the model number. Not too long after i bought my RFM the Wells Gardner chassis flyback died but i was extremely lucky in tracking down a NOS chassis of the same model. I know that quite a few WG flyback's have been reproduced just not sure about this one, and also not sure about the Ducksan chassis flyback, RFM's used both brands of monitor chassis.
As i stated in a previous post i'm a fan of keeping the CRT...IF at all possible, if that's not feasible then your only option is to go flat screen, either LCD or LED.

#1832 1 year ago
Quoted from billsfanmd:

I dont want to speak for Borygard but I pm'd him about a monitor issue and he said that he is now suggesting the LCD conversion for most CRT issues to bulletproof game.

That's fair enough and that suggests to me that replacement Fly's aren't available, Borygard is far more knowledgeable than myself. Put it this way, everything else on a chassis board is pretty much either repairable or replaceable but some Flyback's just don't exist anymore that i'm aware of, and that part is a major one. I'm only commenting using my preference as a guide, in the future it's most likely i will have to go down the LCD pathway too

2 weeks later
#1869 1 year ago
Quoted from Zitt:

For anyone reading this... Never, EVER, toss your CRT unless you know it's has a cracked tube

Just as a matter of interest, i have a couple of arcade 19" tubes that have issues, one has a shorted yoke and the other one has no neck glow (blown heater i believe). I know you can swap yokes but can the one with the blown heater be fixed?

3 months later
#2011 1 year ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

The scratching had me really concerned as well, I think I'll be going for the Pingraffix,and I'll keep everyone posted.

You can buy adhesive backed thin felt strip to go on the edge of the playfield which helps to prevent scratching on mirror blades. You can still get scratching on the Pingraffix style also i might add. I had a set on my STTNG ages ago and then changed to mirror blades...... both ended up getting scratch marks

1 week later
#2026 1 year ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

I have that as well. I'm trying to figure out how to degauss the monitor with an external degaussing coil. The position makes the usual method awkward at best.

You can buy degaussing wands, about $25 over here. They work fine on any arcade monitors, sometimes takes a couple of passes to get it right.

#2032 1 year ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

Oh, I've got one, I'm just trying to work out how to make the big, circular sweeping motion that you're supposed to do in front of the screen with the monitor in the position where it sits in the game.

Hmm true, good point!! Supposed to work in a circular motion from the center to the outside and sweep away so to speak..... With the amount of room either side that could be difficult.

#2045 1 year ago
Quoted from wylcot:

I mean apart from the worn hole which is pretty obvious

That's fairly common for this machine to be worn/broken around the stroke of luck hole. A Cliffy protector "should" cover most of that damage'

#2059 1 year ago

Do my eyes deceive me or is there a hole in the cab mid point just below the rail?

#2061 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

hehe. that's one of the bolt holes where the head attaches to the cabinet

Shows how long it's been since i've had the head off my machine, LOL...ummmm continue on, nothing to see here

2 weeks later
#2098 1 year ago

Well i've just played my last few games of RFM......for now, i have sold my machine and soon it will be going off to it's new owner. I just want to thank all the guys who have been most helpful in this thread during the time i have owned this machine, with tech help, mod suggestions and general support, and hopefully i've been able to reciprocate in the same manner. I decided in the last few months that i wanted to buy my first ever NIB machine and Iron Maiden ticks the boxes for me, so not having a big heap of available cash reserves something has to go in the list to part fund it I will still hover around in the thread and keep in touch, hopefully one day i may get hold of another machine. Cheers RFM fans, it's been a blast

#2100 1 year ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

Sorry to see ya go Paul but there are a lot of games out there and life's short. Wish I could afford an IM but it's to much. See ya around Pinside.

Cheers Paul, yeah i'll still be around mate and quite likely i will regret the decision to sell this particular pin, i've had a lot of fun with it over the years. I've always wanted to experience buying a NIB machine, only ever had 2nd hand B/W and Sterns and the timing seems about right to achieve this. I guess part of my reasoning is that if i decide i'm not keen on IMDN further down the track then i will be able to trade back for possibly 2 good B/W's, having already at least played the Pro i kinda doubt that but hey, the future is the future I will definitely still hover around the club and if i feel i can add anything relevant i may still pipe up but most likely it's just a back seat role. As you know there is a wealth of knowledge in most club threads and a sense of community spirit to help out your fellow machine owners that is sometimes lacking in other threads.

4 months later
#2244 1 year ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

The previous owner did cut the fly back wire to pull out the chassis

This in itself seems a bit suspicious. It isn't necessary to cut the fly back wire to remove the chassis from the machine. I'm just wondering if the fly back wire was cut because the fly back itself was toast? I've seen this done before as a preventive measure so other people don't fire them up and potentially set stuff alight. I could be wrong about this, but once cut it's not a simple matter of re-soldering the wire back together due to the high voltages.

3 months later
#2534 9 months ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

My question. Is it possible to get the chassis out. Without having to remove the entire monitor from the game? I don’t want to break anything...

I did already discharge the tube. I don’t want to kill myself

Yes you can remove the chassis while keeping the CRT tube in the machine. There will be a couple of plugs to remove (they should all have connector plugs unless it has been previously fiddled with), being the chassis 110V power, the RGBSyncGND plug and the neck board from the CRT itself. Removing the neck board has to be done carefully so you don't damage the pins on the end of the CRT neck so if you're unsure of the method i would recommend googling how this is done. And i always discharge again before removing the anode cap, even if you have already discharged previously, always better to be sure when dealing with those high voltages. I can't give you a major run down on the chassis removal cause it's been a long time since i have done this on my RFM and i no longer have this machine in my collection. I still say CRT is the way to go with this machine when and wherever it is possible
EDIT : There may also be a ground plug with 1 pin that goes to the neck board, other side attaches to the degauss wire section of the CRT. (Again, i can't recall if there was one on my machine's CRT tube but a lot of CRT tubes do have this)

1 month later
#2611 8 months ago
Quoted from newtoit:

The screen brightness has a dim hue. If i smack the head itll flash a quick glimpse of a bright white then go back to dim. Is there an adjustment other than the remote adjustments?

That could also be a bad solder joint on the brightness control pot (on the monitor chassis board). Easy way to test that is to have someone lightly tap that pot whilst viewing the screen and see what happens.

1 month later
#2780 6 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Safe? Mostly. It did set one of my games on fire, but I was able to flip it on eBay..

It turned me into a Newt........i got better

2 weeks later
#2879 6 months ago

DAMN you Applejuice ,wishing i had not sold my RFM now Seriously though...absolutely awesome work man!!!!

1 month later
#3003 5 months ago

I don't have the machine any more but mine definitely had the tilt bob on the LHS of the cab, far as i know that is standard across most B/W machines. It's always "interesting" to see what people do over time to their machines, aka hacks
The first pin i ever bought was BOP and both bolts for the headbox brackets were leg bolts and that's mild in comparison to what others have reported in various club threads

#3010 5 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:

I'm meaning the rfm cabinet loom. If you move your tilt bob does the cabinet loom still reach. What is your serial number for your game, and what country does the sticker say inside?

It's possible that export machines had the tilt bob on the left, US machines on the right, or visa versa, whichever the case may be. I'm not sure if my machine was an export originally though unfortunately

1 month later
#3118 3 months ago
Quoted from gibsonrd:

I have a RFM with a dead monitor

9 out of 10 times it's the monitor chassis board that will have gone and not the monitor itself. The chassis boards can be repaired! I don't have this machine any more but i will always advocate keeping the machine CRT whenever it is still possible.

3 weeks later
#3181 3 months ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I am having trouble with the horizontal hold on my rfm. A few weeks ago it started scrolling and I wasnt able to stabalize it using the adjustments. It would seem like I had it and then would start scrolling again. I tried using switch cleaner on the adj. pots and seemed to have helped , but when I turned her on lastnight..it was back. Any fixes for this??

Possibly the pot is on the way out, they do go dodgy over time. You could try reflowing the solder on the 3 pot legs. Could be a different issue with the chassis board but that would be my first thought. The pots are readily available if you need to change one over, just remember to get the correct ohm rating.

#3186 88 days ago
Quoted from msj2222:

Thanks, i will try that. It does seem to correct a bit when i put pressure on the pot. I also thought the resistor for the pot may be glitchy...does that happen? I have been wanting to ad a video amp or switch to a led screen but dont feel its something i can do. I have read several posts on the subject and get confused

That does sound suspiciously like a possible broken leg on the pot yeah, might be broken through but the two sides still kind of touching each other. Resistors like any component can go bad over time but i'm thinking the pot is the main culprit. I think adding the video amp isn't too hard to do, didn't have one on my machine when i owned it though so others in the club will be able to provide more precise info. I've said it many times in the club...KEEP the CRT if at all possible

#3187 88 days ago
Quoted from zerbam:

any one have this plastic that i need?

Sits to the left of the center targets? I may have a repaired one somewhere, from memory mine was broken in half and it was re-glued and braced from underneath. It's been a while but i'm fairly sure i got a spare new one from somewhere

#3199 87 days ago
Quoted from msj2222:

Before I reflowed it would just not hold, it would scroll slowly. Now I get that solid line when I get close to locking in. Seems like I made it worse. Are those control boards available..is there a part# ? I'm not sure where to go with this now

You should only need to replace that particular pot, but make sure the ohm value is the same as the original. I had a similar issue with a remote board like this on a Leyland Super OffRoad machine, started off with the picture not holding and on closer inspection i realised the pot was cracked through one side above the leg. Once i changed the pot to a new one it was good as gold. I'm not sure what the Ohm value is on that particular pot, they do vary across the board, not always the same ohm rating. Usually the value is printed on the pot somewhere, sometimes on the edges of the body, sometimes on the adjustment side.

#3201 87 days ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I just dont understand why the problem would escalate by just reflowing. Is there a way to verify its a bad pot? Are the the ohms printed on the top?

Even touching the adjustment part of the pot if it's going/gone bad would create effects on the screen (lines, etc) I'm not sure if those numbers in your pic 52, 25 are the values and i don't have my machine any more to confirm for you. Do you know what type of monitor and board you have in the machine? usually they are either Wells Gardner or Ducksan. From your earlier pic showing most of the remote board it looks like it may be a Ducksan. There will be others in the club who can confirm what value pot you will need. The 52 "could" stand for 520K but i can't be positive on that.

#3206 86 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I don't. Matching pots is hard to do unless you have the original part number

Shouldn't you only need to have the correct ohm value and the same leg pattern, usually in a tri leg pattern but the distance between the legs can be smaller or larger?? All i did for the Super Offroad remote board was match the ohm value to the particular pot i was changing and got the matching leg size as close as possible (these can be slightly bent inwards/outwards if needed) and it worked 100%. Must admit i don't have any experience with the Ducksan board but i would have thought the basics would be the same?
These are the style i used for the SOR board, link is for the 500k though.

msj2222 Ok did a bit of googling and it appears that the remote board in question is a Wells Gardner K7300 series. The code number on the remote board matches the code at the end of the page in this link. If the number on the Vertical hold pot is correct in the picture then this info might come in handy (scan down the page to see the trimpot code listing), according to the references it is a 200k pot but i would still be checking the values by testing.

#3219 83 days ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I have had no luck finding a new remote adjustment board (Wells Gargner P809). So , again, if anyone can lead me to a source or someone who can repair mine, it would be much appreciated.

Try messaging applejuice i know he has some chassis boards for sale and may be able to help you out with a spare or even a changeover maybe?
I would replace the pot for you but it wouldn't be worth the cost of posting to me and back again, the pots themselves are worth bugger all. The other thing is i wouldn't be able to confirm the pot changeover is the main culprit as i don't have the machine any more to test it in. I'm still fairly confident that is the problem though. Hopefully someone your side of the pond can help you out.

#3223 83 days ago
Quoted from msj2222:

Thanks for you efforts. I have been hitting a brick wall every lead I have.KenLayton never replied to my pm and i cant find a match for that pot. Seems like others have had a really tough time finding that particular remote board. Very fustrating!

No worries at all i just hope you can get it sorted. Until someone tells me that i'm totally wrong (and that's quite possible ) i'm still of the opinion that any tri leg pot that has the same value as the suspected bad one (and pretty sure the Vertical hold is 200k) will be fine to replace. I don't think you need to have a pot that is from the same/original manufacturer, the ohm value is the most important factor and the watt rating will be consistent i think. I didn't need to source an "original" pot for my Super Offroad remote board, just matched the ohm rating as previously mentioned and that worked fine!

#3225 83 days ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I havent found the wattage. The 200k seems consistant with what I have found. Do you think this is a suitable substitute

Yep they should be fine, 1/2 watt seems to be the norm for these and the Ohm value is correct according to Ken's write up (and the code number on your board definitely matches the code number in his write up also, it's the same board i'm sure). The distance between the legs can be altered by slightly bending, only really needs a few mm of the tip of the leg anyway to go through the thickness of the board to be soldered. Ideally you would use a solder sucker to remove the old solder from the original pot which would then virtually fall away from the board. The main thing is NOT to apply too much heat to the board for too long, if you do you can potentially stuff the "tracks" of the board.

1 month later
#3326 30 days ago
Quoted from Tjohejsan:

Yes first i just change the chassis board to see if thats whats broken.
Is it broken i let someone who know fix it.
So i might end up with a spare to

Most likely will be the chassis board that needs repair

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