(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

5 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #2093 Wells Gardner K700 troubleshooting flow chart Posted by snakesnsparklers (1 year ago)

Post #2187 Links to updating the game code using windows 7 Posted by ForceFlow (1 year ago)

Post #2295 Adding the missing slingshot spotlights Posted by Lhyrgoif (1 year ago)

Post #2312 Version 2.0 custom code announcement Posted by applejuice (1 year ago)


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#3281 3 months ago
Quoted from mastercello:

Exactly, also it fits right into place...perfect dimensions!

I just received my RFM to discover (undisclosed by the seller) that it also had been refitted with a 17” LCD. I am looking at a larger LCD with a better contrast ratio.

Those of you who have used a 24” (widescreen) LCD talk about in being a perfect fit, etc. My machine has the original cutout piece of plywood holding the monitor and the cutout for the screen is about 18” wide. I see how a 24” widescreen would fit inside the cabinet going to the edges, but with that plywood unmodified the monitor would sit on top of the plywood, not have its screen inline with the playfield-facing edge of the plywood.

Do you modify or replace the plywood, do you let the monitor sit on top, or even below?

#3283 3 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

This seemed to work just fine and stuff lined up pretty well. I'm not sure if that's how everyone else does it.

Thanks. I mentioned the alignment of the screen surface with the edge of the plywood because someone had stressed this should be the case. However, as soon as one uses a non-original monitor, screen size differences may not make this ideal. Your success leads me to think I can experiment with the monitor’s location.

The truly important ideal is that when all is said and done the reflected image lines up properly with the playfield targets, etc. My problem is not having a reference for how they should align. If anyone can lead me to a good photo illustrating this, that would be great. Otherwise, I may have to go watch Tilt! again to catch the right video frame.

#3285 3 months ago
Quoted from Sleepdroid:

You just have to tinker with it until the image lines up right.

Thanks, also. I still need some sort of reference to know what is “right”. I hadn’t played this model machine in so long, I’m not sure how it should look. I’ve been using the Martian Happy Hour challenge for alignment. Are the Martians supposed to overlay the actual playfield targets? Right now, the ones in front of the bar are about 1/2 in front of and 1/2 above the targets.

I also need to tame some excess stray light and repaint some black bits in the target area which are making the image difficult to see.

#3287 3 months ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I'm using a 22" Dell. Mounted underside, set to 16:9. Excellent alignment of images above ramps and targets.

Wayout, these photos were very helpful. Thanks!

#3289 3 months ago

VA (Vertical alignment) flat screen replacement monitor for PB2K??

I hadn’t seen this technology mentioned in any posts when I searched, most people recommending IPS type LCD/LED monitors.

My “new” RFM arrived with a 17” Dell 1707FP, a CCFL backlit early LCD technology monitor. At first it looked awful, until I realized the RGB gains had been dialed back on the CGA/VGA adapter. Very dark screen, I would have called it a Ghost Martian invasion. Now, it is tolerable... for now.

Investigating replacements, I ran across this relatively new VA type monitor technology. What caught my attention is the contrast ratio, specifically static contrast ratio, typically 3000 to 1. IPS monitors are typically 1000 to 1, my current clunker 600 to 1. I like black blacks and the gray rectangle that currently backdrops the monitor’s reflected image on the playfield is a bit annoying.

After all, this game was designed for a CRT monitor, which has inherently great contrast when properly adjusted. While an OLED monitor would be even better, I am on a budget, $XX, not $XXXX!

Has anyone any experience with the VA type monitors, they seem to be favored by some gamers, but I am a pinballer?

I guess because they are a newer technology, they seem to only be available as widescreens. So, maybe a 24 inch widescreen would be the way to go. I’ve seen a couple of models in the USD $80-$90 range.

I will probably take the plunge soon... and report my results.

#3291 3 months ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I think my Dell 22* monitor looks darn good. Better than the old CRT and quite black with properly lowered contrast and brightness. $56 on EBay.

Yes, I am debating between a 24” and a 22”, especially if I mount it the same way as you have. The original 19” CRTs actually had a screen size around 18” due to the inherent non-rectangular shape of a CRT. That would kind of be in between what 22” and 24” widescreens would provide as they are truncated to the proper 4:3 aspect ratio.

I am still curious if anyone has experience with those VA type LCD/LEDs.

#3292 3 months ago
Quoted from larrys1:

Here is what I used for in front of the ball catcher, hockey stick tape, made from rubber with a small raised portion in the center. Works great.
[quoted image]

Revisiting a five year old question, but the solution offered then, “Stick It” seems to no longer be available, at least in my web searches.

The thin padding tape on the front edge of my machine’s ball catcher is falling apart. I was thinking of trying to apply some black Plasti-Dip, normally used to coat hand tool handles.

What other solutions have people found?

#3297 89 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

4 days people to Halloween and the release of v2.2 and some midnight play with reversed flippers! Check https://myPinballs.com from 12am gmt 31st Oct
Tests have gone well and now passed my beta testers attempts to break it, though I’ve spent an awful long time squashing bugs for this! As i add more it gets more tricky to shoehorn it into the space and still keep the original hardware space and 4mb ram options alive!!
To the Martian emperor! Cheers
*Please give generously to the code cause

This is amazing, Applejuice. But here is a sideways question:

I only received my RFM a few weeks ago, just getting to know it. I quickly noticed that the “knock” sound programmed in (my system is rocking version 1.4 of the software) sounds more like a grating metallic crunch than a knock on a wood cabinet. Assuming this is just a matter of the sound that was sampled, can (has) this knock sound be (been) changed to be a little less horrid?

#3300 89 days ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

And if you don’t add a real knocker, you can set one the software that you have one.. and it won’t play the sound, just send a signal to fire the non-existent knocker

I really just hoped there was a way to change the sound sample that is played, no new hardware, no actual knocker. At the moment I cringe at the end of a game awaiting the possibility of a final score digit match and that crunching sound. One’s supposed to look forward to a match!

#3301 88 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

There is no GI in Pinball 2000 systems, all the lamps are controlled lamps. The pulsed voltage is roughly equivalent to 6V, but since it is not continuous, your color change lamps won't work properly.
You can probably use the +12VDC on the ticket dispenser cable for powering 12 VDC rated LEDs, J117-4 is +12 and J117-8 is ground.

Wayout, you’ve been very helpful to me. I found this two year old post you’d made. I am curious how the bulbs are driven. When I received my RFM a few weeks ago, it had most bulbs replaced with LEDs. Today, I tried to replace some burned out lights, mostly bulbs, but also some LEDs. My replacements were all to be LEDs. There is a cluster of bulb locations (11B, 12B, 13B, 14B, 15B, 16B, 17B) near the bottom of the playfield, all in a single column in the matrix, that burned out the LEDs nearly instantly. Checking with a multimeter (difficult to get a true reading since they’re blinking all the time during lamp tests), these positions, all on the same PCB seem to have higher voltage than others, maybe 2 or 3 times the typical readings.

It almost seems like a crossed wire is causing a doubling up of lamp voltage, if that’s possible. It may be these positions, for whatever reason, will only work with incandescent bulbs. Or, maybe...?

This is my first solid state pinball machine. I am pretty good at troubleshooting my old EM machines, but I am somewhat at a loss here.

#3303 88 days ago

wayout440
I found a section in pinwiki.com on Williams WPC tech. Are there other specific documents you recommend? I can also go back to my experience as a kid in the pre-digital electronics age, as these seem to be good old fashioned discrete driver transistors, nowadays controlled by a digital circuit. If the trouble is at that level (and from what you describe this seems likely) I have a fighting chance.

When you mention “compare measurements at points of the column circuit that has failed to one that operates correctly“. If the transistor or associated passive components is not the cause, do you mean downstream, i.e. toward the lamps or upstream toward the digital controller?

Thanks again for letting me reach out to you.

#3306 87 days ago

J107 - A lost connection?

In the process of diagnosing a controlled lighting problem, I did some testing on the main drive board. There is a J107 connector block, all wired up on this board, but no connector attached to it. My machine was manufactured in June, 1999. Was this connector used in early examples but then found unnecessary? Was it to allow extra driver capacity for future P2K games? Just curious.

#3314 84 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Sorry I took so long to get back to you:
I would start with the lamp testing process that confirms the problem is on the board, to rule out the playfield as playing a part. The driver transistor is the typical weak link, although other things can contribute.

No problem. I took the opportunity to get up in my own two feet, based on your first response, and diagnose the issue. However, I have copied and pasted your latest response to my personal journal as reference material on my repair efforts for this machine.

Because that particular lamp column was running bright, in fact burning out every LED I had put into it, I went to the Power Driver board to test all the TIP107s, using the test I found in the WPC95 document I had found. That test is to check for a short between the tab (collector) of each transistor and the 18V supply. I found none. Then, I tested the resistors between these transistors and the junction blocks, J106 and J107. One resistor, R282 was shorting to ground. Taking the resistor out of the circuit, it tested okay. That brought me back to a more extensive test of its associated TIP107, Q6. It turned out to be the source of the short. To be more certain I had actually isolated the cause, I also tested the components upstream of Q6. Everything directly upstream, two resistors and an IC seemed okay. I replaced Q6 and the lamps (new LEDs) are now behaving properly.

I also gave the Power Driver board and all its connectors, which look like they hadn’t been touched in 20 years, a good dusting and vacuuming.

For others with a similar plight, I also found a good Pinside topic started by HOLY-SNES about the RFM Power Driver board that was also helpful,

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-2000-revenge-from-mars-power-driver-board-lamp-issue

#3316 84 days ago
Quoted from stevegrisw:

Hey, I have a Revenge From Mars and love it. I just never have gotten around to replacing the lane roll over switches in the 3 upper lanes and also some but the flippers. I probably need 3 new switches but never can seem to locate a place that still sells them. Is there a URL to a replacement lane micro switch?
Thanks
Steve

I just picked up some from Marco Specialties, 5647-12693-19. Same part number as original Williams, though it is really an equivalent. You will need to reuse the original diodes or buy those also (IN4004). I needed to replace 2 out of 3 upper rollover switches plus the one in the right outlane on the machine I just acquired.

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