(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"

By kjm8888

6 years ago

Topic Stats

  • 4,376 posts
  • 359 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by applejuice
  • Topic is favorited by 171 Pinsiders


Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,017 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

0DFDEFAF-2936-419C-B060-C35CDCA73EE2 (resized).jpeg
33728B35-6746-4264-AD00-ED4D1308D9B1 (resized).jpeg
vga (resized).jpg
89e2d29f17749c47804532f071525dddb6603e7e (resized).jpg
PXL_20210105_012056575 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210104_015802259 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210104_013321085 (resized).jpg
PXL_20210103_173156651 (resized).jpg
183850E4-7E94-4B29-A036-35E81089F2B8 (resized).jpeg
IMG_8368 (resized).JPG
IMG_0672 (resized).jpg
3BAE5D8D-1716-4B04-A207-28328366A5FE (resized).jpeg
IMG_0668 (resized).jpg
73CE5355-4DD8-45DC-9757-31ED99339704 (resized).jpeg
E8B1ACFF-AB77-4676-87AF-6B449D10F351 (resized).jpeg
DED39788-6234-4D0B-BC71-4BC349307761 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #2093 Wells Gardner K700 troubleshooting flow chart Posted by snakesnsparklers (2 years ago)

Post #2187 Links to updating the game code using windows 7 Posted by ForceFlow (2 years ago)

Post #2295 Adding the missing slingshot spotlights Posted by Lhyrgoif (2 years ago)

Post #2312 Version 2.0 custom code announcement Posted by applejuice (2 years ago)

Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider lhyrgoif.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

#2082 2 years ago

New to the club

Cab got some wear and scratches but the PF is in nice condition (after I cleaned it, replaced lots of broken plastic and new rubbers).

I think the Pinball 2000 concept is really nice, although a bit "scary" regarding finding spare parts if/when it breaks.

20180621_195042 (resized).jpg
4 months later
#2245 2 years ago

I'm one of those owners that are missing the PF spotlights on the two slingshots and as the actual games is rather dark I want to add them myself. The problem is that I haven't found any really good topics on where to solder the lamp wires.

I've done lots of searches and googling and the closest thing I found was this thread:
Unfortunately the thread end without the posting of accurate pics on where to solder those wires. I know the actual thread above "kind of" describes where to solder but in fear of doing something wrong I much rather want a pic or two showing the spots rather than guessing from a text description.

I already own the needed extra hex-posts and the spotlights, the only thing I'm missing is the knowledge where to connect them.

So, can someone here that actually have these two spotlights mounted please take a few good pics below their PF so I (and others) can see where the cables should go?


#2247 2 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

These lights have actual plugs on them. Do you should have two spare plugs dangling under your playfield of which your spot lights would plug into

The early RFM pins didn't have those spotlights at all, so no, my wire-harness doesn't have any unused plugs or cables with "loose ends" dangling anywhere. If it was that simple I wouldn't have asked in the first place. I bought the spotlights that I want to add a few weeks ago, completely separate from the rest of the game and they are not something that was mounted on it in the first place.

So, anyone care to trace their spotlight cables to where they are attached and take a few pics below their playfields?

1 week later
#2266 2 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I'm one of those owners that are missing the PF spotlights on the two slingshots and as the actual games is rather dark I want to add them myself.
So, can someone here that actually have these two spotlights mounted please take a few good pics below their PF so I (and others) can see where the cables should go?

As stated earlier, I don't have any empty connectors to plug the spotlights into below my PF, so could any of you please take 5 min and trace the four cables (two for each spotlight) and see where they end up connecting to? I would appreciate it a lot!

#2268 2 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

All lamps including GI are a part of the lamp matrix. One side of both spot lamps gets red/grey from the row and the left slingshot spot gets yellow/brown and the right gets yellow/red. You can connect them anywhere that is convenient as long as you keep the daisy chain intact
[quoted image][quoted image]

Awesome answer, now I just need to understand the lamp matrix a bit better

Anyway, this info should be enough for me to fix the spots, lots of thanks!

#2270 2 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Watch the video link below. Please make sure your spot lamps have diodes across the terminals. If they dont, you can add the diodes. Someone replaced my spot lamps with lamps with no diodes when I bought RFM. It was confused and all the lamps acted wonky.

Don't see any video URL in your post but I did some googling myself and found a video explaining the lamp matrix. Before that I only had a vague understanding of it (thus why I wanted someone to point out exact points to connect), but after watching it I finally understands how the lightning actually works.

Basically I should be good doing the following:
1. Trace the existing daisy-chains for both spots and find the previous lamp connector in the two columns and just continue the chain to the newly added spots.
2. The other two spotlight cables can be connected to anywhere on the same lamp row (8B)
3. Add a diode between both cables on each spotlight. If I understand the schematics correctly the two blocking diodes should go from column to row; ie flow is from column to row and blocks the other way.

Any pointers to what type of diodes I need (nr/code) ? I could ofc open my game and see if I could find any marking on the existing ones, but I was hoping the same type are being used all over so someone already knows the type.


#2272 2 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Yes, except I misspoke. The steering diodes are in series with the lamps. The striped side (cathode) of the diode attached to the lamp terminal opposite of the terminal that you attach the yellow with x stripe row wire. Then the red with x stripe column wire attaches to the anode of the diode. Current flows from column to row. Standard general purpose 1N series diodes are fine. I use 1N4004 for them. Hope this is a little clearer, refer to the diagram below.
[quoted image]

A while after I posted last time I realized that I was thinking about the normal lamp holders located below the PF; they have a layout of the connectors making it "look like" the diode are soldered in parallel when they are in fact serial there too. The spotlight only have two connectors/cables and if the diode would be mounted in parallel around the lamp a lot of the current would bypass the lamp, which isn't what we want The same is shown in your diagram above; i.e. in serial is the way to go.

I will buy the needed diodes the coming week and try this out. Hopefully I can post some pics/guideline for others if successful.

1 week later
#2295 2 years ago

Finally got the two "missing" spotlights added to my game

Lots of thanks to wayout440 for the pointers that made me realize what I had to do (basically understand the lamp matrix lol).

I will add a detailed description of the process below as I've come to understand that several other people also want to know how to do it.

Parts list:
* 2 #555 wedge socket lamps with reflector - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/077-5026-XX
* 2 hex posts m-f 8-32 x 1.50" zinc 1/4" - https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-5295-24
Slightly longer posts should work too, my spots are located quite a bit away from the cover glass.
* 2 Diodes 1N4004
* 2 pair of Molex connectors (2 circuit, mini-fit) small enough so they can fit through the hole in the PF behind the slingshots.
Don't forget the accompanying crimping terminals (male and female)
* Wire
* Shrink tubing
* Zip ties

Tools used (apart from the obvious ones):
* Crimping tool for crimping the Molex terminals. It's much easier to crimp the wire to the terminals rather than soldering.
* Fiberglass scratch brush pen. Great for easily removal of the isolating lacquer above the PCB copper lines.

The assembled wires:
1 (resized).jpg

Diode orientation is crucial, double check this. The diode side with a line on it should be closest to the end of the wire. My initial thought was to crimp over the diode too but then it would be hard to show it's orientation so I decided not to. You should probably do it though.
2 (resized).jpg

There are several alternatives where to solder the two column wires (one for left and one for the right spotlight).
* "Splicing" into two of the cables (yellow-brown, yellow-red) going to the PCB and make a connection there.
* Soldering to one of the diode legs (on the PCB lamp plug side). This has the downside of the additional spotlight stop working if the PCB mounted lamp in serial before it goes out.
* Soldering directly beside one of the correct PCB lamp plugs. I'm not sure it will be proper clearance to be able to turn the lamp plug and change bulb after that so I scrapped the idea. Maybe it works...
* Solder directly on the PCB copper line. I decided to use this solution.

I used a fiberglass scratch pen to easily remove the lacquer layer and get to the copper line. If you don't remove the lacquer first then you can't solder properly and only risk on lifting/breaking the PCB trace, thus ruining it. The two red circles show the spots where I used the brush to get to clean copper.
Upper red circle is for the left spotlight and lower-right circle is for the right spotlight.

Tin both cable ends and PCB copper line before soldering, it makes the process easier.

You can connect your two cables along any part of those two copper lines that I marked.
3 (resized).jpg

Solder both lamp wires having a diode at the end to the left martian eye (located directly below the flipper coils).
NOTE: Make sure to solder them to the correct side of the existing diode for the lamp! Solder both wires closest to the diode side with the line.
4 (resized).jpg

Overview of the finished soldering; Two yellow cables (for each lamp matrix column) going to each lamp. The returning red cables from both lamps goes through a diode and to the same connection (the lamp matrix row) on the left martian eye lamp.

I also added a few zip ties to keep the new cables tidy and in place. My initial thought was to fasten the upper yellow wire to the nearby kicker assembly (using a zip tie) too, but realized that kicker vibrations might make the solder connection to break so I skipped that. Maybe I'm overthinking things...
5 (resized).jpg

Playfield view
6 (resized).jpg

Pinball turned on. Both spots working, illuminating the PF. The left spotlight have a normal 555 bulb in it, thus the yellow light. The right spotlight have a cold white LED as seen by the more blue-ish colored alien. Decided to go with the normal 555 bulbs as I like the green alien color and classic light bulbs are more close to the rest of the game for me.
7 (resized).jpg

Spotlight in action; same as above, furthest away with 555 bulb, closest one with white LED.
8 (resized).jpg

All in all this was a fun project and I learned more about pinball; mission accomplished!

2 months later
#2519 1 year ago

My lower lane playfield plastic A-23137 is broken and I've searched high and low for it (this part https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-23137).

All pinball stores that even list the part has it as "out of stock" since forever. I know it can be found in the complete plastic reproduction kits, but paying lots of cash for ~25 plastics when I need only one obviously sucks.

I've also checked Ebay/Amazon lots of times and no luck there either.

So, is there someone that have that plastic lying around, either used or new or even a bit scratched, doesn't matter as long as the plastic isn't broken. If so please PM me and I'm sure we can work something out. I have the black spacers that sits below it so it's really only the plastic itself that's needed.


1 month later
#2632 1 year ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

EDIT : if you need more details, i can do a mini tuto ^^

My pin is original (forgot code version right now) with CRT n stuff and I'm very interested in upgrading, but the thought of screwing something up and bricking it have kept me from taking the leap so far. I don't know anyone with a pub card either so currently I have no way to recover from a bricked game, thus the scare to do it.

A detailed guide on both hardware needed (cables) and software, including an "idiots 101 to upgrade p2k game software" would give me confidence enough to go for it. If you have the time and energy to make such tutorial I would be all over it.

Edit: Is there a video somewhere showing the newer stuff in-play? That spider? mentioned above for example sound fun

1 month later
#2795 1 year ago

Never thought my bumpers are weak, they seem to function as any other pop bumper.

1 month later
#2947 1 year ago

Whoa, that loom looks great, I need one.

#2952 1 year ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Possibly you have a tournament setting turned on, which will equalise the sol awards to dullness. Check the standard and feature settings in the service menu adjustments

Omg, didn't realize the SOL rewards could be changed. After turning off tournament setting the game got a lot more varied (I get into the SOL hole a lot). Thanks for the great advice.

#2956 1 year ago

Got my loom today, yay.

Now I just need dummy instructions on how to assemble everything , what shaker to use and so on

#2968 1 year ago
Quoted from thesav:

Which Stern shakers are compatible with your loom and update? All of them? Or just some?
I’ve got a Rev B shaker (502-5027-00 Rev B), will it work correctly in RFM with your loom?

Is it possible to use a Stern SPIKE shaker 502-5027-00-02 (rev C) also? If I understand it correctly we connect the loom directly to the motor (via a fuse) and can simply discard any other stuff like controller boards bundled with the shaker.

If I can't use the SPIKE shaker then why not, wrong voltage?

Also, can I use any knocker with a spring (used for horizontal mounting) or do they differ in other ways? I can't find the standard Stern knocker anywhere near me and the shipping overseas is pretty much. Any other recommended knockers then the Stern one?

#2985 1 year ago

I'm still deciding on if I should invest in a shaker or not (got the loom already and planning to add the knocker) simply on the gut feeling that extra vibrations doesn't really pair good with CRT's/old solder connections/electronics in general. When and how long does the shaker activate if installed (few seconds each time or much longer)?

Anyone know of any damage caused because of a shaker (in any pin)?

#2990 1 year ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Shakers are very common in modern pinball machines and they are full of surface mount and lead free soldered components. Not thinking this is anything to worry about.

Well modern pins doesnt have 20 year old brittle solder points

Also unsure about the CRT and how sensitive it is to shaking.

You are probably correct that I worry to much though.

1 week later
#3024 1 year ago
Quoted from Giulio:

Hi there, get a Dell 2007 FP (search for serial ending with S, ips model one), it's perfect for the RFM lcd route. Fits exakt ...

My crt works fine so I wont replace it as of now. Still , Im interested in seing some pictures (if you have any) of your monitor conversion for future reference if my display breaks down.

1 month later
#3168 1 year ago

I'm have never heard of that problem for a pin2000 before. Maybe a problem with the sound card (that sits inside the box were that connector enters)?

You could try reseat the black sound cables between the prism card going to the sound card.

#3170 1 year ago

Any news on the unofficial ROM v2.2 progress?

I'm about to update to 2.1 for shaker/knocker support but then remembered I read something a while ago about an upcoming 2.2 and was thinking maybe I should wait until next release if it's in the near future.

2 weeks later
#3241 1 year ago
Quoted from HyyL:

With rivet, do you mean “popnit” (sorry, once again I don’t know the English term)? See picture below what I call popnit.[quoted image]

This is the normal rivets https://www.free-play.se/produkter/skruv-mutter/master-rivet-kit.html

Then you also need a rivet tool/punch to fold the end of the rivet over the backing washer properly.

#3243 1 year ago

Anyone got a spare lower lane playfield plastic A-23137 ? It's the plastic closest to the ball launcher. I don't need the black plastic spacers or the screws as I've got them already. Even a scratched one is fine, as long as it isn't broken.

I don't want to buy a complete set of PF plastic when I only need a single piece.

Please PM if you have one.
plastic (resized).jpg

1 week later
#3259 1 year ago

Sweet. Really looking forward to it. Any patch notes we can take a sneak peak at?

1 month later
#3353 1 year ago

I've seen people sell both single computer parts and whole computer box with all stuff inside.

Is game completely dead or what? Does the CPU fan start at all? Perhaps it's only the power supply that's broken, those can easily be found and replaced.

1 month later
#3471 1 year ago
Quoted from sniiki:

Recently joined the club. Game is in pretty good condition except some wear in couple inserts and cabinet decals need replacing. Loving it so far, what a joy to maintain vs older Williamses. Everything comes off so easily.
A question about bulb brightness. I have incandescent bulbs everywhere and they seem to be quite dim. I'm wondering if they're supposed to be like this or if my driver board needs some service. A bit hard to describe the brightness so I attached a pic with 44 and 555 bulbs showing. The spotlight brightness is normal but the 44 in the back is really dim compared. Could anyone share a similar comparison pic? A DSLR camera with same settings would help. This one I just grabbed with cell but can take another if someone can help to compare.
Reason I started doubting if this is a normal brightness at all it is that I had a weird glitch with 8A column lights suddenly getting really bright while rest stayed normal. Switched the machine off, inspected wiring and driver board w/o finding anything and retried with everything back normal again. Driver board does need a wash but it's not terribly dusty, so I wonder if ULN or TIPs could have had a one time lock (which sounds odd to me).
EDIT: There was some reason for driver board to get upset. I replaced all bulbs when I did a full PF tear down and clean up and used pinball center's bulbs, which seem to be really poor quality. One of then had double internals and game reported it as short, see the pic. Few just didn't work and one was lit really dim but still was getting extremely hot. You can see it in upper left corner of the attached pic, inside the apron. The dual head mutant bulb wasn't in the column the got really bright but the hottie bulb was, so wonder if the high current could have affected the circuitry without blowing a fuse.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Welcome to the club, its a fun game with great humor.

Regarding the dark illumination, I've Always thought the pf is rather dark so the tv reflection would be easily visible. Too much ambient light and the screen picture will look bland.

2 months later
#3546 10 months ago

I've been looking for the lower lane playfield plastic A-23137 high and low, but it doesn't seem to be available in any store.
It's the plastic closest to the ball shooter (I got the upper plastic in good condition).

Anyone here that have a used one? Even a scratched plastic is interesting as long as it isn't broken or too ugly.

I'm aware that I can buy the whole plastic set, but this is the only plastic that I need, so I don't want to do that.

RFM (resized).jpg
1 week later
#3572 9 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Also, The xina system itself creates a TimeStamp structure that actually support years upto 9999

Omg, this means the game will fail @ year 10 000 !!!1111oneone We need a fix asap

Also, thanks for all your work sofar on this game.

#3580 9 months ago
Quoted from Irishbastard:

Ok, one more question, this regarding Shaker installation. The harness instructions say to use J111, but my J111 is in use? So I use J110? (I assume my lighted saucer mod is powered by the plug currently in J110). Are J110 and J111 essentially the same?
Edit: Disregard, post #2971, they are the same, sorry.
[quoted image]

That blue cable is really stretched, I would be afraid it coming loose at the socket. Why not just skip the first cable clip and let it slack a bit...

#3633 9 months ago
Quoted from PhillyArcade:

... What was on the front of that ball catcher assembly? Was it mylar or something? Mine seems to be worn off.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I bought a sheet of black "ball drop dead" foam (about 3 mm thick), cut a strip fitting the ball catcher front, added double adhesive at the back of the foam and pressed it in place. It has been there for about two years now and lots of plays, still haven't fell of and no sign of wear.

Also, I like the fact that the ball drop straight down when hitting the front, instead of bouncing back like it did before I added the foam.
foam (resized).jpg

1 month later
#3767 8 months ago

I updated to 2.1 without any extra RAM, no problems at all.

3 months later
#4044 4 months ago
Quoted from Asure:

I was cleaning out the bottom of cab today and besides some rubber and a few misplaced bulbs i managed to find this lodged in one of the corners.. Anybody know where it goes or what it is?
[quoted image]

I'm 99% sure it's a remake of the "Ball catcher anti ball trap bracket", see page 2-24, item 15 in the manual. It sits in the front of the ball catcher assembly.

I call it "remake" because I ordered one of those from Germany like two years ago but unfortunately the mounting holes in mine didn't match the actual holes in the ball catcher assembly so I couldn't attach it. My guess is another buyer had the same problem and just put it inside the cabinet

Edit: I found the item in their shop, its 100% that item. https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/revenge-from-mars/6056/bracket-ball-catcher-for-revenge-from-mars

2 months later
#4180 83 days ago
Quoted from mark532011:

My question, on the plastic pic, is that missing something? it looks like it might be broken

This is how my plastic looked like when I was renovating it; it's not that different from yours, but have better edges.

1 (resized).jpg

Also, it's kind of hard to see on your picture but I think your plastic that sits above the SOL (stroke of luck) hole is missing a piece. There should be a translucent piece that extends over the lane to the right of the SOL (think with the drop-down target in it). Mine was broken and I've seen several other RFMs with the same issue. This is what the plastic should look like:

2 (resized).jpg

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 11.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
$ 45.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
$ 279.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 12.50
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
From: $ 1.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
From: $ 45.00

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider lhyrgoif.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside