(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"

By kjm8888

9 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

13 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #2093 Wells Gardner K700 troubleshooting flow chart Posted by snakesnsparklers (5 years ago)

Post #2187 Links to updating the game code using windows 7 Posted by ForceFlow (5 years ago)

Post #2295 Adding the missing slingshot spotlights Posted by Lhyrgoif (5 years ago)

Post #2312 Version 2.0 custom code announcement Posted by applejuice (5 years ago)

Post #2348 Updating Pinbox systems with "Mypinballs" newer code Posted by applejuice (5 years ago)

Post #2824 CORRECT rubber kit for Revenge From Mars Posted by Sonic (4 years ago)

Post #6222 Code improvements identified. Posted by harig (6 months ago)

Post #6265 Link to Nucore forum. Posted by Rene368 (6 months ago)

Post #6283 LCD advice. Posted by rygar (6 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jodannar.
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#1493 6 years ago

Picked one of these beauties up yesterday. It was filthy. I have given the playfield a quick wipe over and gone through the machine for missing elements. So far all I can find incorrect is the missing spotlights from the slings. No assemblies or posts. At some point this machine has had some love as it has leds through it, and plastic sling washers for protection. The leds all report as open circuit, so they may be replaced with newer brighter ones in the near future. I've found the sling lamp assemblies but can't find the posts that they attach to on the slings?
The monitor in mine is a Sanyo brand and the scaling is slightly off on it. Images are oversanning on the tube/cropped. I'm assuming I can adjust this somewhere on the back of the tube.
Any assistance ? Thanks.

Also noticed it is running version 0.7, not a typo, 0.7 of the game code. I will attempt an update in the coming weeks.

#1507 6 years ago

Can someone measure the posts that the sling spots mount on? They don't seem to be listed in the manual. Also i can't seem to find where to adjust the screen scaling for the CRT. I have my images cropped on the edges/overscanning the monitor. I know there are pots behind the neck, but can't find one labelled size or span or similar.

#1511 6 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

The neck CRT adjustments are typically for the color drivers only. Scaling will either be on the board or the remote PCB. Some boards have no width adjustment other than the width coil. That one you would be best off using a plastic tool designed for it.

Yep my adjustment board is mounted behind the neck in an awkward place. Non-original Samsung monitor. I'll make an adjustment and see.

#1530 6 years ago

Found my spotlight parts. Now the problem is where they connect in. Apparently german machines didn't ship with spots? Is there a different loom for these machines? I have no spare plugs under the play field to hook the lights into. My saucers are the only plugs available near the slings...

Added over 7 years ago: Has anyone added slingshot spotlights to early run German machines? Did you need to wire back to the lamp matrix or did you find somewhere in the loom to hook into?

#1538 6 years ago

I know what the spots should connect to, but I don't see any wires of that colour in my loom anywhere near the slings, hence my question if anyone else has "added" spots to early German machines.

3 months later
#1634 6 years ago

Do peoples machines have a stopper/cap on the posts on the left plastic, under the ramp and Martian? Mine doesn't and the plastic jumps occasionally

1 week later
#1636 6 years ago

I meant on the top of the plastic to stop it moving. Like a acorn nut or similar. My plastic bounces around a bit in gameplay. I know the plastic has the posts on top of it to stop balls hitting the spots or getting stuck

3 months later
#1770 6 years ago

I put a piece of adhesive foam on there, weatherseal. Stops the big clunk if the ball ever hits the front face off the ramp

4 months later
#1992 5 years ago

Yep normal behaviour. Ball save doesn’t auto plunge the ball. You’ll turn the save off soon enough anyway

3 weeks later
#2021 5 years ago

I have a colour cast on my monitor since moving the machine. I don’t think the monitor has a degaus circuit in it. I’ve depowered the machine for multiple days but it hasn’t removed it. Looks like magnetic interference (top left of monitor has blue cast)

1 month later
#2124 5 years ago

I now have constant static pulsing through my rfm speakers. If I disconnect from the pc it stops (obviously).
All pc connections seem to be fine and seated correctly.
Sound comes through fine, just a constant speaker static pulse hum that doesn’t change with volume
Could my sound card have an issue?

#2126 5 years ago

I replaced the computer power supply due to its fan failing and it has occurred since doing that today.

#2128 5 years ago
Quoted from Mocean:

Try unplugging your translight flourescent lamp. Might not be it, but I had some pretty crazy buzzing and distortion as mine began to die.
You could also get a ground loop isolator and see if that helps. amazon.com link »
Could be neither of these and a leaky capacitor on the amp (it's inside the PC case). Give it a look. If you don't want to fix it you could remove it and the Lepai 168H is a bit of an upgrade.

Disconnected the fluro. Took the pc out again, reseated all cables. Checked sound board caps, look fine. Same issue. Can gently place the audio connector back into the sound card outside the of and the distortion is less evident. Only comes through front speakers not cabinet.

Static starts once the game goes through boot and starts attract
Mode

#2130 5 years ago

Highly doubt that as it’s a standard power supply for a pc

#2132 5 years ago

Where would I connect the ground loop isolator for the audio? They are built with headphone jacks and the audio amp doesn’t use that

1 month later
#2168 5 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

I now have constant static pulsing through my rfm speakers. If I disconnect from the pc it stops (obviously).
All pc connections seem to be fine and seated correctly.
Sound comes through fine, just a constant speaker static pulse hum that doesn’t change with volume
Could my sound card have an issue?

Changed to a non-auto switching (manual switching) power supply after debugging with another machine. Issue resolved. Seems the auto switching power supply wasnt liked by the amplifier circuit

2 months later
#2232 5 years ago

I’ve plugged headphones in previously to the board when trying to isolate a speaker him and received no sound.

1 week later
#2249 5 years ago

Early run games don’t have spots or the loom plugs to connect them.

2 weeks later
#2296 5 years ago

Looks really good. Very clear guide. I’m Interested to see why you decided to solder to the trace rather than just splicing into the line prior to the board?

2 weeks later
#2342 5 years ago

I updated my machine to 1.6 when I first got it but I think I used an old pc that I no longer have ..

#2361 5 years ago

Tried updating tonight. Flash fails at the end of the game rom “failed to acknowledge packet” error.
Flashing back to 1.5 works successfully. Using original hardware

I have tried different baud rates to no effect.

#2362 5 years ago

Update: update worked but now my scoop mystery solenoid no longer fires in game or test. It’s bye so investigation for another time...

#2369 5 years ago

I reran the update and reseated all my coil plugs to be sure afterwards. I ran the update using the fupdate utility, at the slowest baud rate of 9600 and it was successful with no gameplay anomalies. I did have the update fail once, and rollback successfully when using a higher baud rate on original hardware.
Extensive ya testing last night and there are no issues with updating original hardware on 4mb original stock ram

#2380 5 years ago

Super skill shot seems to be there in some modes and not in others.

3 months later
#2670 5 years ago

Updated today, first tile no issues. Played 2 games and almost got to attack mars, was one saucer light short. Great update! Now I just need to get a knocker so I can get rid of the horrible static squeal on extra ball and match

6 months later
#3293 4 years ago

Any form of adhesive backed insulation tape works. Anything for stopping draughty in door frames etc

#3299 4 years ago

And if you don’t add a real knocker, you can set one the software that you have one.. and it won’t play the sound, just send a signal to fire the non-existent knocker

5 months later
#3591 4 years ago

Amazing work apple juice. I’ll have to get out the serial adaptor and do an update again

2 months later
#3856 3 years ago

Yes,you can just repeat the process using the newer version of the updated apple juice code.

10 months later
#4548 3 years ago

Updated today and I’ve had multiple instances of flipper flutter during Martian multiball. Very strange, seemed to be in time with the Martian jump pulse, but went away after 1-2 seconds. Had on both the left and right flipper during different games. Bizarre behaviour, will check hardware tomorrow

#4555 3 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Lol, I added a feature called ‘power drain’ into Martian multiball as a nod to the great work in Dialed In by jjp on flipper attacks during multiball. Did you think there was a fault in dialed in to??
Please always read the update notes here:
https://www.mypinballs.com/software/rfm/code_updates.jsp
Before updating. Power drain was added as an option in v2.22
Your description tells me it’s working nicely and selecting different sides randomly ok to

Didn’t feel like weak or no holds flippers more flutters. Quite different than jp power drain. Cool feature but surprising when I was in a really good game

1 month later
#4668 2 years ago

Let the club a couple days ago; but local sale to a friend so can always come back if I so desire and they want a lineup rotation like I didz

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