RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"

the first rule of RFM club is that you don't ask about the RFM club. you will be contacted

yes, the software does not recognize LEDs (and the lamp test(s) will reflect that all areas replaced with LEDs are 'out')

a guy had an NOS one on ebay about 2 months ago and I was outbid at $350. pinball spare parts australia is the only vendor that had *some* of the parts to put one together in the past 2 years, but have been long sold out of the big lucite backstop and many of the other parts

only RFM is affected by putting LEDs into it given that b/w was looking for a specific amount of voltage across those lamps (LEDs use only a fraction, so to the system it appears like a burned out bulb)

pinball.co (pinball spare parts australia) is the only place that I've ever seen that stocks the pin head screws.

my guess is that they got the remaining stock when they did the mass purchase from williams when they closed their doors back in 2000.

I've been told that the fluorescent tube is some of the cause of the translites becoming brittle. if you diffuse the light, so that they are not directly hitting the translites, they will last longer.

the motorized spaceship mod was really cool looking, but I couldn't see myself investing $250 for something that wouldn't be easily repairable, so I opted for bill ung's lighting kit instead (which was $100 cheaper)

http://www.ufopinball.com/RFM-LED/features.htm

http://www.ufopinball.com (same as the link from marco's that arpman listed above)

I picked up a set of LED'ed eye martians, but I'm not happy about the way that the guy did the wiring. I've got a couple of extras to fool around and am going to see if I can't run everything internally. I hate the fact that most of these guys performed a rear side lobotomy, removing a huge chunk out of the head and then either ran the wires straight out of the back of the heads or pigtailed the exposed wires before running them through the bodies.

I had to return the LED florescent tube that I ordered from amazon last week (see link below). for some reason, the LED light tube was about 1/8" shorter than my "real" florescent tube and the 2 contacts on either end didn't want to make a good connection in the ballast to light the new tube.

amazon.com link »

did anyone else that ordered one, have similar issues?

agreed. it's a shame that it didn't work out for me (or blondetall), but them's the breaks. it looks like it would have been a good alternate solution, but possibly suffers due to poor [chinese] quality control.

NewPinOwner is also correct that the part of the problem lies with the ends being able to turn independently of the tube itself (which kind of makes sense so that you can position the direction of the LEDs), but can cause issues since you have to make sure that you're rotating both ends to secure the ballast locks.

for me the problem was the total length. I don't think that mine was able to make a good connection with the connectors inside of the ballast because it was too short.

there was a pinsider that had a couple of NOS ball catcher vinyl decals on hand and he was going to send one to rick @ pps to see about getting them re-made but I have no idea if that ever happened.

I know that rick's had a lot on his plate lately (MMr, taking over all of IPC's assets and moving them to california), so this might be one of those things that either got lost in the shuffle or put on the back burner.

edit:
and the only place that I've ever seen these carried was pinball.co (pinball spare parts australia) which were probably had by the buy-out when WMS shuttered the pinball division back in 2001, but they've been sold-out for quite some time.

http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/31-3547-1.html

finally had a fantastic game this past saturday morning and felt like sharing. my machine is set up with the factory default settings; no ball saver, 3-ball games, extra ball at 50M and 200M, etc...

I've owned the game for about a year now and until 2 weekends ago, I've never even made to the 'attack mars' mode. two saturday's ago I had a stellar first ball, completing 7 or 8 of the saucer lights and got to 'attack mars' on the third ball but didn't realize what I needed to do (I guess should have read the instructions about the use of the 'action buttons'
even so, without defeating mars, it bumped my high score to date from about 365M to just over 610M

this past saturday morning, I didn't start out that great, but ended up having a terrific 3rd ball, make it to the 'attack mars' mode and finally defeated the martians. my new high score is now 793,288,780

RFM score.JPG

tamoore:
you're not allowed to comment on RFM anymore since you sold yours (TRAITOR!!!)

ok, then I *guess* we'll let you stay in the club, but you'll have to go through the probationary period again!

the post office totally ruined my kit and I'm working with mr. askey to get a replacement kit. no beautiful saucers for the holiday season for me

Esoteric_rt:
I'm not sure if you're planning a trip to that "other" island south of you any time soon (or what the costs involved would be), but I believe that mark c. at pinball spare parts australia still has some NOS sheets of pinball 2000 glass on hand.

I don't think that he'll ship, but if you can find someone locally making that "run" that would be willing to bring it back for you, that might be the best way to grab a sheet while you still can

there's an ebay seller that actually has the correct colored t-molding. here's the link for his auction:
ebay.com link » Pinball 2000 Correct Color Match T Molding

on mine, the original owner used a twist-tie to prevent the case from accidentally sliding (probably during a move). check to make sure that on the left and right runners, nothing is impeding the ability to pull the pc case straight out towards you.

you'll want to disconnect the 2 serial cables (one 9-pin and one 25-pin) and the vga cable that connect to the case on the left side

on the right side of the pc case, there is a 6-pin molex connector (for the sound board) that is connected and held in place with a cable management nylon clip. you'll need to unplug that cable and remove it from the nylon clip.

with all 4 cables disconnected, you should be able to pull the case straight out all the way (don't worry it won't fall out), and then it will pivot and rest on the pins at the back of the case. reach around to the back side of the case (near the right) and unplug the power cable. once you've disconnected the power cable, you should be able to lift the case up over the metal runners and out of the head.

rfm - removing the pc case.jpg
according to the manual, there *may* be 2 screws at the end of the metal slides locking the pc case in place.

edit:
as mattosborn stated, the red button is a reset switch for the pc. I tend to disconnect everything with the power off so I never touch the reset button. however, if you accidentally bump it, you'll need to press it again to turn the pc when you turn on the machine if the monitor doesn't "come to life"

nice job on the flame polishing

ls1chris:
I'll try and take photos of the spot lights for you this evening. curse you for grabbing that last pf from pps. I emailed rick ages ago about it and he never got back to me. instead, it appears that they just listed as stock on their webstore (which I missed) :/

here are the promised pics. without going through the lamp tests, I'm not sure which of the 4-pin molex connector bundles (purple-yellow or red-yellow) are the ones for the spot lights. if you can't figure it out, let me know and I'll pull the connectors and put it in lamp test.

left side
IMG_0489.JPG
IMG_0490.JPG
IMG_0492.JPG

right side
IMG_0488.JPG
IMG_0493.JPG
IMG_0494.JPG

correct. J4 is an extra, unpopulated connector on the light board. I'm currently using it for the rgb saucer mod

epic fail. your punishment is to go back to school and serve a 1 hour detention for the next 5 school days. abe lincoln was the 16th president, not the 15th one.

here's the gist on this part (I purchased one before finding a nos original). basically, the original part is no longer being made (like many of the vuk scoops). someone started reproducing these, which are the parts that all of the suppliers are selling now.

I can't find the original information, but if I recall, the weld on the newer part wasn't nearly as clean as the original (at least on the one that I purchased), but offered slotted holes for the 2 coil brackets to allow you a bit of adjustment.

yep, you need to use paint stripper to remove that protective coating. see here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/looking-for-a-new-pinball-2000-playfield-glass#post-1472969

quoting 'pkiefert' from that thread:

they basically screen printed a gradient protective layer on the bare glass, then sprayed it with the reflective coating. It's what created the gradual reflection to full reflective area on the glass.
So you have to remove that screen printed protective coating in order to reveal the clear class under it.
I've done it on three sets of Pin2k glass. It's not too hard, but the paint stripper is wicked stuff. Just a tiny drop on your skin hurts like hell.

I just spoke with paul again. here's a link to the paint stripper that he used:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-KS-3-1-pt-Premium-Stripper-PA11185/203713894

sorry mustangpaul, but you're not the only "paul" here on pinside

your machine should have one of these there
http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=23-6551

a question for the maker of the Stroke of Luck Lights for RFM from LeesParts.com
the mod looks nice. the only question I have is why does it flash red/green or yellow/green at times? I would prefer that if the 'stroke of luck' is active that it just flashes on/off in yellow (or red) and then when martian attack is active, it flashes green. is this a user changeable setting?

completing the game modes quickly will net you a larger bonus. acquiring 10 saucer lights (as well as completing all 9 of the basic game modes) will allow you to "attack mars" (where, if you complete it, will net you some huge points

keeping the ball alive in the multi-ball modes (martian, fuel, mothership) and progressing through them will net you progressively larger bonuses.

on the default settings (3 ball, no ball saver), I believe that my current high score is around 1.7B

where did you order your t-molding from (to get the correct color)? what length, what did you use to re-staple the ends together?

thanks. when installing t-molding, I found that for the "tight" inside and outside corners, you need to notch out sections of the spine (pie-fashion)
t-molding_(notched)_(resized).jpg

ebay.com link » Pinball 2000 Power Supply Star Wars Episode 1 Revenge From Mars Brand New

not really. they pop up on ebay from time to time (like this one). they're just not cheap when they do
ebay.com link » Motherboard Pinball 2000 Revenge From Mars Star Wars Episode 1

here's an fyi for those who have purchased pin2k glass from rob (lock when lit)

planetary has finally uncovered and stocked the double-sided playfield glass decal ( right side up, wrong side up) on their webstore @ $5 ea
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-04-10739-DEC

I can take measurements tonight if someone doesn't get it to you before then

I'm on board for a 3D RFM translite if it gets made (and I've got a friend that would be in for one as well). it would suit the title nicely and given the quality of these, definitely worth the price of admission

is anyone looking for bill ung's saucer mod for a RFM? I purchased the kit a while ago, but never got around to installing it. everything is still brand new in the bags that they were received in.

I'm looking to get $125 plus shipping

edit: sold!

applejuice has a terrific mod for the the saucers and it comes with two replacements
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-rgb-saucer-mod-in-development

he sells metal saucers as well
http://mypinballs.com/electronics/store.jsp

last option "bronze steel metal"

simply to keep the spring inside of it (bare metal) from making contact with anything electrical (like the wiring harnesses) and grounding out.

as merccat pointed out, the spring inside creates tension to keep the power driver board cover in either the open or closed position.

??

I'm guessing that you've never worked with arcade stuff before? what was shown in that image is typical for any monitor. a deflection chassis board, neck board and remote board for convenience. there's nothing messy whatsoever about that

I can try and take a photo of mine tomorrow. tonight is already full up with retrieving my joust machine from a friend's house (loaned it out for our private league last month) and then league night @ marvin's marvelous mechanical museum
http://www.marvin3m.com/

I'm in, and I'll be fighting chevettepaul for that prototype

challenge accepted paul. I've already got my idea for my photo. we'll see who takes home the prize (that is, if it's one of us)

merccat is correct
most of the good kits also come with a checklist of what is included in the kit and designation on the motherboard (eg. C1, C2, etc...) which makes it a bit easier to replace them.

I typically don't worry about going "in order", but rather working systematically through the board and tackling all of the caps in a specific area (doing them one at a time) and marking them off the list. just be sure that you're using the correct replacement cap (2.2uF is different than 22uF, so double checking the print on the capacitor and the leads for those that are polarized.

also, make sure to check that for the polarized caps that you insert it back in the the same way that you pull out the old one. I've worked on a few boards where the silkscreening on the pc board was actually incorrect

true enough, but I think that people get the gist. I should have really used 22uf vs 2.2uf

it's easiest to pull the entire frame w/ the monitor and then remove the chassis to re-move and replace the caps

4. check the wires on your coil.

on mine, one of the wires on the up/down post coil leading to the lugs had actually broken but was still making contact occasionally inside of the eyelet so the break in the wire wasn't obvious. once I re-soldered it, everything worked perfectly

I wouldn't purchase the stainless steel flap from pinbits. I ordered one a while ago and didn't like it. there are plenty of places (planetary pinball, marco's, etc...) that still sell the [blued] steel flap which "hides" better when it's down

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-01-15141

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-15141

you'll need access to a rivet press to secure the new ramp flap onto the bracket

I believe that you've got the right part identified (from pspa) but like merccat, I'm not at home right now to verify

it's in the settings, but turned off by default. it's one of the only pins that I own where the ball saver is turned off by default

if you have never modified the original computer hardware, you might want to consider bumping up the ram in it (doubling will eliminate the stuttering in the animations where it's an issue. I think that I added 64MB or 128MB sticks to both slots. you can add upwards of 256MB in each slot, but that's really just overkill and in the end, all it really does is slow down the boot-up process since the ram is checked

I have a sheet of NOS P2K glass (straight from williams, still in the original shipping box). the box is huge and heavy (quad walled cardboard) and has foam to keep the glass floating in the center of it. shipping costs will probably be substantial (UPS ground is probably the most cost effective)

asking: $300 plus shipping

I will be able to bring it with me to the chicago expo in october if no one is local to me (livonia, michigan)

where is this step-by-step guide located? link please!

no, 16:9 is wide screen

5:4 is a slightly different aspect ratio but similar to 4:3

think of it in terms of inches. a 16:9 (widescreen) display would be 16" (w) for every 9" (h) that it is (slightly larger than 1.5x wide as the display is tall

the older 4:3 and newer 5:4 monitors are just slightly wider than they are tall

sounds like the monitor will need a cap kit. nothing too hard to do if you're used to working on electronics (however, look up some information on how to handle monitors. that flyback holds enough electricity to kill a person if not discharged properly!

go through the service menus and check the switch and lamp matrix tests to make sure that the system sees everything working good. additionally, lift up the playfield and the plastic cover over the power driver board. there are LED indicators there as well

if you do purchase it, you'll probably want to change out the 7 or so capacitors on the computer motherboard as well. that will help "bulletproof" the system

it was originally a textured tape. I still have am unattached NOS piece that I have not put on my machine yet. I'll see if I can locate it to scan for the dimensions

this product looks very similar to the original material
amazon.com link »

correction, never, ever toss your CRT <period>

there are many people in the community that can breath new life (myself included) using the proper tube from a 19" tv. not any tube will work, but based on the impedance of the horizontal and vertical guns, a like or near compatible tube from an older television can restore an arcade machine or in this case, a pinball 2000, CRT

plus, if there is an issue with the existing tube, it's much easier (and safer) to ship without that big, glass brick saving the cathode ray tube's yoke and rings will allow nearly any television tube to be used

so, what was the issue?

although kind of long winded, this youtube video is a pretty good one showing you all of the in's and out's of swapping in a tv tube and getting your RFM/SWEp1 display working again

that's an easy one. it's part no. 23-6551
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-6551

23-6551 (resized).png

use this site to search and find parts for the games listed. you can put in as much or little information as you know to pare down your results
http://www.moll.no/pinball/parts/

titanpinball.com has also re-produced these in silicone (and in a variety of colors) which look a lot nicer than that nasty yellow that bally/williams used. it cleans up a lot easier and doesn't get as dirty looking from the coil dust and other dirt inside the machine
it's listed as a 'post sleeve - 3/4" bumper (space shuttle)'

taking the head off definitely lightens the load for carrying it to and from the van (especially if you have to do stairs). each part probably weighs in around 175lbs
and removing the head makes it that much easier to navigate the machine.
disassembly is pretty easy:
- disconnect the 2 sets of wires leading from the head into the cabinet (speaker and power)
- disconnect the ground wire
- remove the 4 bolts securing the head onto the cabinet (2 allen keys are required, but off of the top of my head I don't remember their sizes)

then carefully lift the head off (straight up and then back) of the cabinet

if the cabinet is still too heavy, you can further lighten that load by removing the playfield assembly by sliding it all of the way out of the cabinet (resting the front on the floor) and then disconnecting the 6/7 connectors feeding into the backboard from the power driver board to free it up completely

I believe that ball save is turned off by default. someone must have changed the settings for it to be enabled

be sure to look at the battery type. it's not a CR2032 like what is used in the stern sam games or the battery on the motherboard in your RFM
it's actually a BR2325

the mantis one is the same as what's used in a monster bash. I'm also using both (a cliffy and a mantis) in both my RFM and my MET

hehe. that's one of the bolt holes where the head attaches to the cabinet

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-01-15141

if you purchase a ramp flap from planetary it will already come [blued]. it's only the stainless ones from places like pinbits.com that you have to do it yourself. it's kind of a messy process and unless you put it on really even, you're going to notice streaks in it

it took me a while to find these, since they are not shown in the manual, but are listed on page 2-4
02-4352-2 - pivot bushing

4700-00111-00 - fw .390 x .875 .062 washer

also, they are not associated with RFM or SWEP1 on marco's website

pivot bushing - cabinet t-nut
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4352

they show that it matches up with this bolt
3/8-16 x 3/4" bolt
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4322-01139-12B

however, if I remember correctly, I thought that both RFM and SWEP1 used another pivot bushing that was male threaded with a slightly smaller allen head (but it's been awhile since I looked at mine

I remember having to use 2 different sized allen wrenches to cinch them up and that the way they were manufactured, you couldn't over tighten each pair (the inner bottomed out with just enough space for the nylon washer

the nylon washer (4700-00111-00)
http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/washer-flat-390-x-875-x-062-black/

they definitely call out the -2 part in the manual, but based on your photo its more like the -3 part
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4352-3

I have both a cliffy and a mantis in my RFM for ultimate protection. it's tight, but they both do fit. NOTE: install the cliffy first!! otherwise you'll just end up bending the tabs and ruining the cliffy (in the words of bryan kelly, don't ask me how I know
8BA5DDB4-F641-4775-94BF-8E82A6721B45 (resized).jpeg

who gave my image an "unsafe" tag? was it too close a shot of the stroke of luck hole for general consumption??

1.5 or 1.6 was the latest official release. I believe there is a 1.8 or 1.9 version that supports an online high score submission

I purchased one a while back but I'll be damned if I can remember which supplier I got it from (it was probably one of the australian guys, mr. pinball or pinball spare parts australia). those cell phone spudger tools will work in a pinch, since it's nearly the same

just be careful to work both ends evenly when spreading the 2 boards apart

you need to carefully separate the 2 halves of the prism card to remove and replace the battery. note that it is a BR2325 battery

great question. if a pub card can be updated, it might take some of the guess work out of the update

lamp matrix controlled martian eyes? hell yeah!

have you never made it to "attack mars"? if that's not one of the best implemented interactive video modes, then I'm not sure exactly what you're looking for

guari777
is what you have for sale, just the ramp flap (stainless or blued metal) or the whole skip ramp assembly?

the original adhesive backed decal has a texture to it, amazon sells rolls of a product that it very similar to the original textured material that was used
amazon.com link »

I realize that this post was from about 2 months but I finally uncovered the part no. and link for where I purchased mine separator tool
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/pinball-2000/03-10024.html

unfortunately, their website appears to either be down or they are no longer in business

I did manage to find it here as well for $7 (if they still have stock)
http://www.foramusementonly.to/williams.html

it's located about little over 1/2 the way down the page

I have not used that product. I merely provided a link for it. the textured sticker on my RFM is in great shape

if you can find the correct thickness acrylic and get it laser cut, I can heat bend it for you

it's all up to you, but personally I think that both RFM and SWEP1 look much better with the original CRT type monitors. LCD panels can't come close in providing the blacks to help achieve that effect of fading into the playfield on the mirrorized glass. additionally, I've seen people use the newer 16:9 monitors and not set them into a 4:3 aspect ratio, so the videos appear a bit stretched and the don't line up where the shots are supposed to take place on the actual playfield.

should you choose to go the LCD route, you'll need a set of the brackets, a cardboard bezel and a video convertor to switch the CGA signal to rgb (rob anthony has both items on lockwhenlit.com

lockwhenlit - products (resized).jpg
http://lockwhenlit.com/products.htm
http://lockwhenlit.com/CGA.htm

if you can find a 20" plasma display to replace the original CRT with, I want to know where and how much

applejuice should still have his available. they are a very cool set

pssst...
if you ask most people, it's not. unfortunately SWEP1 was developed in a box with no interaction with the rest of the bally/williams team and jpop missed the mark with the shots. (it's mostly a shoot the middle, shoot the middle, shoot the middle... type game)
additionally, when performing the swap from RFM to SWEP1 or back, if you don't have a 2nd rom board and prism board, you have to remove the 2 boards from the computer, separate them carefully and then remove, swap the 10 mask roms and then reassemble everything.

and maybe because jpop was a huge d*+cheb@g, SWEP1 didn't use the same launch button mechanism that RFM did, making it one more item that you need to swap out. why? rumor has it that he received a royalty for the use of his patented silver ball shooter rod plunger from cirqus voltaire

I think 73" is correct. it's just above my height and I'm 5'-11"

yep, those large capacitors do their job very well at storing large amounts of energy (which is why you need to be very careful. electricity is very unforgiving

I've discharged the bigger capacitors on an arcade power chassis before by [carefully] grounding both terminals using a screwdriver. the bang it created was huge (think M80 firecracker loudness). additionally, the arc of electricity actually put a small pit mark in the metal shaft of the screwdriver

the rivets should be (1/8" dia head) x 5/32" or 3/16" long. if you use anything longer, I would use a backing washer otherwise you won't be able to cinch it down tight enough (roll/flare the rivet end) and the ramp will be loose on the ramp bracket

if it came with their rivet "kit", I would steer clear and do it the proper way. the press fit rivets will not hold up for this particular item

here's their pressless rivet kit
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=72&zenid=7e322cb21bcefd2009d00e0c8b0e0cdf

I'm also not a fan of the stainless ramp flap (but that's a whole different story). long story short, it sticks out like a sore thumb on the playfield. blue it yourself or purchase one that is pre-blued like these
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-15141
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-01-15141

I like the decal idea. I wonder if someone could mock up the missing playfield art and cover the flap with that

there 3 unique keys for the game
- backbox (above translite) and rear panel
- service access which will allow you to remove the lockdown bar & playfield glass for playfield service access (left front)
- coin door

both the backbox and service access keys are single bitted, so you should be able to pick those rather easily without having to drill them. the coin door key is double-bitted

the eyes are red lenses with a pair of #44 bulbs underneath. I wonder if the previous owner didn't like the red glowing eyes and covered them up with a decal or something to the effect

I posted in the VFW show thread, but I'll post it here too
I've got an extra NOS sheet of pinball 2000 glass (still in the bally/williams shipping box) that I'm looking to sell. price is $200
I will be at the show this friday and saturday, but will only bring the glass if I have a buyer. pm me for details

yep, 3 keys, 4 locks
1 (double bit key) for the head (to remove the translite and access computer) and remove the back door panel (and access the monitor)
1 (single bit key) that allowed a tech to remove the playfield glass and service the machine but not to gain access to the coin box (this is the key hole on the front left)
1 (double bit key) to open the coin door

have you checked the connectors to the opto's? I know that it's a known issue on new stern machines and the recommendation is to re-terminate the wires using trifurcon connectors

to me, this doesn't seem like a good place for the coil to strike. my guess is that over time, the repeated strikes to the box will cause the varistor or the thermistor inside of the box to fail

congrats matt
those look just like the oem reed switches. I replied to pass for now since I was just looking for back-ups and would rather see others truly in need of them and that can provide feedback back to you. I would think that there have to be a few RFM owners in need as well (since that game uses 3 of them

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-hillary-come-here-you-gotta-see-this/page/40#post-4367238

I could swear that I've seen that plastic as part of the goodie bag. sad part is that all of these "common" parts that were plentiful on ebay just 6 months to a year ago seemed to have drying up

could be a bad potentiometer altogether. cleaning up a cold solder joint by reflowing won't necessarily correct the issue

kenlayton is a member here on pinside. you may want to reach out to him since he was the one that wrote the wells gardner K7300 repair guide

speaking of that (without attempting to steal your thunder), I too have an extra sheet of NOS P2K glass still in the quad walled cardboard shipping box. I can bring it with me to expo for someone that doesn't want to pay shipping. $150

pm me to set up a "drug deal" parking lot exchange at the hotel. I will be there oct 16-19 (wed-sat)

that is definitely NOT a complete set. the question is just how many of the actual 17 playfield (+1 backboard) plastics are included. for $130 you can get a complete set which also includes the 8-9 promo pcs.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-3437-Set