(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

6 years ago



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Post #2093 Wells Gardner K700 troubleshooting flow chart Posted by snakesnsparklers (2 years ago)

Post #2187 Links to updating the game code using windows 7 Posted by ForceFlow (2 years ago)

Post #2295 Adding the missing slingshot spotlights Posted by Lhyrgoif (2 years ago)

Post #2312 Version 2.0 custom code announcement Posted by applejuice (2 years ago)


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16
#3 6 years ago

the first rule of RFM club is that you don't ask about the RFM club. you will be contacted

#11 6 years ago
Quoted from mtdouble:

When replacing with LEDs do you get credit dot?

yes, the software does not recognize LEDs (and the lamp test(s) will reflect that all areas replaced with LEDs are 'out')

#26 6 years ago

a guy had an NOS one on ebay about 2 months ago and I was outbid at $350. pinball spare parts australia is the only vendor that had *some* of the parts to put one together in the past 2 years, but have been long sold out of the big lucite backstop and many of the other parts

Quoted from Darlene:

Mine has full LED's and it does show a credit dot. I bought mine from Pinballx and he had told me that having the LED's will do that. So, now I wonder how many of us do have credit dots on our pins who have LED's installed?

only RFM is affected by putting LEDs into it given that b/w was looking for a specific amount of voltage across those lamps (LEDs use only a fraction, so to the system it appears like a burned out bulb)

#42 6 years ago
Quoted from arpman:

Any know a source for those Phillips hex head screws?

pinball.co (pinball spare parts australia) is the only place that I've ever seen that stocks the pin head screws.

my guess is that they got the remaining stock when they did the mass purchase from williams when they closed their doors back in 2000.

#43 6 years ago
Quoted from nosro:

Anyone have any leads on translites without going to Australia? Mine is cracked and brittle.

I've been told that the fluorescent tube is some of the cause of the translites becoming brittle. if you diffuse the light, so that they are not directly hitting the translites, they will last longer.

2 weeks later
#56 6 years ago
Quoted from stevebighead:

Just picked up a RFM. Wow, what a great game. Going to hang onto it for a while and try to mod the hell out of it. Saw some spinning space ships that look really cool. This is one hell of an under rated game. Let's keep this topic alive!

the motorized spaceship mod was really cool looking, but I couldn't see myself investing $250 for something that wouldn't be easily repairable, so I opted for bill ung's lighting kit instead (which was $100 cheaper)

http://www.ufopinball.com/RFM-LED/features.htm

1 month later
#90 6 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

I did come across a mod site once that were selling Led saucers with a multiple choice of patterns for the green Led's but cant seem to find it again!!.

http://www.ufopinball.com (same as the link from marco's that arpman listed above)

I picked up a set of LED'ed eye martians, but I'm not happy about the way that the guy did the wiring. I've got a couple of extras to fool around and am going to see if I can't run everything internally. I hate the fact that most of these guys performed a rear side lobotomy, removing a huge chunk out of the head and then either ran the wires straight out of the back of the heads or pigtailed the exposed wires before running them through the bodies.

3 weeks later
#201 6 years ago

I had to return the LED florescent tube that I ordered from amazon last week (see link below). for some reason, the LED light tube was about 1/8" shorter than my "real" florescent tube and the 2 contacts on either end didn't want to make a good connection in the ballast to light the new tube.

amazon.com link »

did anyone else that ordered one, have similar issues?

#208 6 years ago
Quoted from blondetall:

Don't feel terrible. You found something cool that worked for you and shared. I would have done the same thing.

agreed. it's a shame that it didn't work out for me (or blondetall), but them's the breaks. it looks like it would have been a good alternate solution, but possibly suffers due to poor [chinese] quality control.

NewPinOwner is also correct that the part of the problem lies with the ends being able to turn independently of the tube itself (which kind of makes sense so that you can position the direction of the LEDs), but can cause issues since you have to make sure that you're rotating both ends to secure the ballast locks.

for me the problem was the total length. I don't think that mine was able to make a good connection with the connectors inside of the ballast because it was too short.

2 weeks later
#226 6 years ago

there was a pinsider that had a couple of NOS ball catcher vinyl decals on hand and he was going to send one to rick @ pps to see about getting them re-made but I have no idea if that ever happened.

I know that rick's had a lot on his plate lately (MMr, taking over all of IPC's assets and moving them to california), so this might be one of those things that either got lost in the shuffle or put on the back burner.

edit:
and the only place that I've ever seen these carried was pinball.co (pinball spare parts australia) which were probably had by the buy-out when WMS shuttered the pinball division back in 2001, but they've been sold-out for quite some time.

http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/31-3547-1.html

2 weeks later
#228 6 years ago

finally had a fantastic game this past saturday morning and felt like sharing. my machine is set up with the factory default settings; no ball saver, 3-ball games, extra ball at 50M and 200M, etc...

I've owned the game for about a year now and until 2 weekends ago, I've never even made to the 'attack mars' mode. two saturday's ago I had a stellar first ball, completing 7 or 8 of the saucer lights and got to 'attack mars' on the third ball but didn't realize what I needed to do (I guess should have read the instructions about the use of the 'action buttons'
even so, without defeating mars, it bumped my high score to date from about 365M to just over 610M

this past saturday morning, I didn't start out that great, but ended up having a terrific 3rd ball, make it to the 'attack mars' mode and finally defeated the martians. my new high score is now 793,288,780

RFM score.JPG

3 months later
#263 6 years ago

tamoore:
you're not allowed to comment on RFM anymore since you sold yours (TRAITOR!!!)

#265 6 years ago

ok, then I *guess* we'll let you stay in the club, but you'll have to go through the probationary period again!

#273 6 years ago

the post office totally ruined my kit and I'm working with mr. askey to get a replacement kit. no beautiful saucers for the holiday season for me

3 weeks later
#283 6 years ago

Esoteric_rt:
I'm not sure if you're planning a trip to that "other" island south of you any time soon (or what the costs involved would be), but I believe that mark c. at pinball spare parts australia still has some NOS sheets of pinball 2000 glass on hand.

I don't think that he'll ship, but if you can find someone locally making that "run" that would be willing to bring it back for you, that might be the best way to grab a sheet while you still can

1 month later
#315 5 years ago
Quoted from MikeS:

Where's the best place to order new t-molding for the cabinet? My Ep 1 t-molding is pretty beat up. Thanks

there's an ebay seller that actually has the correct colored t-molding. here's the link for his auction:
ebay.com link » Pinball 2000 Correct Color Match T Molding

#340 5 years ago
Quoted from altan:

Another Pin2k 101 question...
How do I get the PC case to tilt out? I see it's on those sliders, but pushing it forward/back or up/down doesn't seem to release it from some locking mechanism. Probably something obvious, but in the 5 minutes I had to check it out ... well ... I didn't figure it out.
Also, what's the big button coming out of the case toward the translite? Is that some sort of reset button?
... Altan

on mine, the original owner used a twist-tie to prevent the case from accidentally sliding (probably during a move). check to make sure that on the left and right runners, nothing is impeding the ability to pull the pc case straight out towards you.

you'll want to disconnect the 2 serial cables (one 9-pin and one 25-pin) and the vga cable that connect to the case on the left side

on the right side of the pc case, there is a 6-pin molex connector (for the sound board) that is connected and held in place with a cable management nylon clip. you'll need to unplug that cable and remove it from the nylon clip.

with all 4 cables disconnected, you should be able to pull the case straight out all the way (don't worry it won't fall out), and then it will pivot and rest on the pins at the back of the case. reach around to the back side of the case (near the right) and unplug the power cable. once you've disconnected the power cable, you should be able to lift the case up over the metal runners and out of the head.

rfm - removing the pc case.jpg
according to the manual, there *may* be 2 screws at the end of the metal slides locking the pc case in place.

edit:
as mattosborn stated, the red button is a reset switch for the pc. I tend to disconnect everything with the power off so I never touch the reset button. however, if you accidentally bump it, you'll need to press it again to turn the pc when you turn on the machine if the monitor doesn't "come to life"

#347 5 years ago

nice job on the flame polishing

#358 5 years ago

ls1chris:
I'll try and take photos of the spot lights for you this evening. curse you for grabbing that last pf from pps. I emailed rick ages ago about it and he never got back to me. instead, it appears that they just listed as stock on their webstore (which I missed) :/

#359 5 years ago

here are the promised pics. without going through the lamp tests, I'm not sure which of the 4-pin molex connector bundles (purple-yellow or red-yellow) are the ones for the spot lights. if you can't figure it out, let me know and I'll pull the connectors and put it in lamp test.

left side
IMG_0489.JPG
IMG_0490.JPG
IMG_0492.JPG

right side
IMG_0488.JPG
IMG_0493.JPG
IMG_0494.JPG

#364 5 years ago

correct. J4 is an extra, unpopulated connector on the light board. I'm currently using it for the rgb saucer mod

1 week later
#383 5 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

...My candidates:
"15th president wins"
...

epic fail. your punishment is to go back to school and serve a 1 hour detention for the next 5 school days. abe lincoln was the 16th president, not the 15th one.

3 months later
#680 5 years ago
Quoted from Zimmer:

Is there a difference between the 04-12741 from Little Shop of Games and other sellers. Curly's site claims to have an improved version. Did he make that or does everyone have an improved version?
http://ns8313.hostgator.com/~gameshop/product/revenge-from-mars-improved-stainless-scoop-04-12741/

here's the gist on this part (I purchased one before finding a nos original). basically, the original part is no longer being made (like many of the vuk scoops). someone started reproducing these, which are the parts that all of the suppliers are selling now.

I can't find the original information, but if I recall, the weld on the newer part wasn't nearly as clean as the original (at least on the one that I purchased), but offered slotted holes for the 2 coil brackets to allow you a bit of adjustment.

#685 5 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

Also we tried using Goo Gone to get rid of the protective coating on the new piece of glass we got and it didn't work at all. Somebody said to use paint stripper.......

yep, you need to use paint stripper to remove that protective coating. see here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/looking-for-a-new-pinball-2000-playfield-glass#post-1472969

quoting 'pkiefert' from that thread:

they basically screen printed a gradient protective layer on the bare glass, then sprayed it with the reflective coating. It's what created the gradual reflection to full reflective area on the glass.
So you have to remove that screen printed protective coating in order to reveal the clear class under it.
I've done it on three sets of Pin2k glass. It's not too hard, but the paint stripper is wicked stuff. Just a tiny drop on your skin hurts like hell.

I just spoke with paul again. here's a link to the paint stripper that he used:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-KS-3-1-pt-Premium-Stripper-PA11185/203713894

#687 5 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

You did.....I don't remember it. I kid...I kid.

sorry mustangpaul, but you're not the only "paul" here on pinside

5 months later
#801 5 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

Hi guys, I have a question about the left ball guide. Do you guys have a gap between it and the post by the left alien? I'm asking because if I try a super skill shot, the ball shoots right down the middle instead of hitting the flipper and I'm trying to zero in on why.
IMG_0421-1.jpg
Also, since the p2k system is a computer, is there an audio output that can be connected to a stereo receiver?

your machine should have one of these there
http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=23-6551

1 week later
#831 5 years ago

a question for the maker of the Stroke of Luck Lights for RFM from LeesParts.com
the mod looks nice. the only question I have is why does it flash red/green or yellow/green at times? I would prefer that if the 'stroke of luck' is active that it just flashes on/off in yellow (or red) and then when martian attack is active, it flashes green. is this a user changeable setting?

#835 5 years ago

completing the game modes quickly will net you a larger bonus. acquiring 10 saucer lights (as well as completing all 9 of the basic game modes) will allow you to "attack mars" (where, if you complete it, will net you some huge points

keeping the ball alive in the multi-ball modes (martian, fuel, mothership) and progressing through them will net you progressively larger bonuses.

on the default settings (3 ball, no ball saver), I believe that my current high score is around 1.7B

1 month later
#862 4 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I touched up the decals with acylics and replaced the T molding and now mine looks much better

where did you order your t-molding from (to get the correct color)? what length, what did you use to re-staple the ends together?

#866 4 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Found it on Ebay
"This is the correct color matched T-Molding for your Pinball 2000 cabinet. For the Star Wars Episode One or Revenge from Mars. You receive enough material to replace your current t-molding with some left over."
ebay.com link
I did not staple the ends together. I just cut them flush with an x-acto knife and butted them together. The only odd thing was at the back corner due to the very sharp turn it wanted to come out of the groove there, so I hammered in a small nail.

thanks. when installing t-molding, I found that for the "tight" inside and outside corners, you need to notch out sections of the spine (pie-fashion)
t-molding_(notched)_(resized).jpg

1 month later
#895 4 years ago
Quoted from jyeakley:

Anyone have any links on where to buy the power supply?

ebay.com link » Pinball 2000 Power Supply Star Wars Episode 1 Revenge From Mars Brand New

#899 4 years ago
Quoted from splitskull:

MB is pretty much unobtanium. Power supplies can find it everywhere for cheap. I'd say if is working do not mess with anything.

not really. they pop up on ebay from time to time (like this one). they're just not cheap when they do
ebay.com link » Motherboard Pinball 2000 Revenge From Mars Star Wars Episode 1

1 month later
#991 4 years ago

here's an fyi for those who have purchased pin2k glass from rob (lock when lit)

planetary has finally uncovered and stocked the double-sided playfield glass decal ( right side up, wrong side up) on their webstore @ $5 ea
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-04-10739-DEC

1 month later
#1036 4 years ago
Quoted from stevebighead:

Looking for the exact size of the back glass. Had a little mishap and will have to have another made. Thanks in advance.

I can take measurements tonight if someone doesn't get it to you before then

2 weeks later
#1070 4 years ago

I'm on board for a 3D RFM translite if it gets made (and I've got a friend that would be in for one as well). it would suit the title nicely and given the quality of these, definitely worth the price of admission

1 month later
#1107 4 years ago

is anyone looking for bill ung's saucer mod for a RFM? I purchased the kit a while ago, but never got around to installing it. everything is still brand new in the bags that they were received in.

I'm looking to get $125 plus shipping

edit: sold!

3 weeks later
#1157 4 years ago

applejuice has a terrific mod for the the saucers and it comes with two replacements
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-rgb-saucer-mod-in-development

#1159 4 years ago

he sells metal saucers as well
http://mypinballs.com/electronics/store.jsp

#1161 4 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

No metal just nylon.

last option "bronze steel metal"

#1190 4 years ago
Quoted from Badamack:

What is up with that piece ofwhite pvc? Pipe?

simply to keep the spring inside of it (bare metal) from making contact with anything electrical (like the wiring harnesses) and grounding out.

as merccat pointed out, the spring inside creates tension to keep the power driver board cover in either the open or closed position.

1 week later
#1214 4 years ago

??

I'm guessing that you've never worked with arcade stuff before? what was shown in that image is typical for any monitor. a deflection chassis board, neck board and remote board for convenience. there's nothing messy whatsoever about that

#1216 4 years ago

I can try and take a photo of mine tomorrow. tonight is already full up with retrieving my joust machine from a friend's house (loaned it out for our private league last month) and then league night @ marvin's marvelous mechanical museum
http://www.marvin3m.com/

#1239 4 years ago

I'm in, and I'll be fighting chevettepaul for that prototype

#1243 4 years ago

challenge accepted paul. I've already got my idea for my photo. we'll see who takes home the prize (that is, if it's one of us)

3 months later
#1322 3 years ago

merccat is correct
most of the good kits also come with a checklist of what is included in the kit and designation on the motherboard (eg. C1, C2, etc...) which makes it a bit easier to replace them.

I typically don't worry about going "in order", but rather working systematically through the board and tackling all of the caps in a specific area (doing them one at a time) and marking them off the list. just be sure that you're using the correct replacement cap (2.2uF is different than 22uF, so double checking the print on the capacitor and the leads for those that are polarized.

also, make sure to check that for the polarized caps that you insert it back in the the same way that you pull out the old one. I've worked on a few boards where the silkscreening on the pc board was actually incorrect

#1325 3 years ago

true enough, but I think that people get the gist. I should have really used 22uf vs 2.2uf

#1328 3 years ago
Quoted from bbriese:

I have a ducksan monitor and just found a cap kit from Syracuse Semiconductors....It seems as though many of the sources listed here in previous threads for cap kits have gone away and/or their websites are not working. Since it sounds like y'all might have done this before, is it best to pull the entire monitor & chassis out of the machine or can the board(s) be accessed and removed separately?

it's easiest to pull the entire frame w/ the monitor and then remove the chassis to re-move and replace the caps

4 weeks later
#1358 3 years ago

4. check the wires on your coil.

on mine, one of the wires on the up/down post coil leading to the lugs had actually broken but was still making contact occasionally inside of the eyelet so the break in the wire wasn't obvious. once I re-soldered it, everything worked perfectly

#1375 3 years ago

I wouldn't purchase the stainless steel flap from pinbits. I ordered one a while ago and didn't like it. there are plenty of places (planetary pinball, marco's, etc...) that still sell the [blued] steel flap which "hides" better when it's down

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=PP&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-01-15141

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-15141

you'll need access to a rivet press to secure the new ramp flap onto the bracket

#1386 3 years ago

I believe that you've got the right part identified (from pspa) but like merccat, I'm not at home right now to verify

#1391 3 years ago
Quoted from Alamo_Pin:

Is there any way to add a ball-save at the start of each ball, or is this option not in the settings?
Thanks

it's in the settings, but turned off by default. it's one of the only pins that I own where the ball saver is turned off by default

1 month later
#1491 3 years ago
Quoted from fattdirk:

So I'm considering building a pinbox rig. My RFM has the original computer but the graphics have an annoying lag to them. I've installed more ram but all it seemed to accomplish was increase the initial loading time for the game.
Does pinbox remove this lag?

if you have never modified the original computer hardware, you might want to consider bumping up the ram in it (doubling will eliminate the stuttering in the animations where it's an issue. I think that I added 64MB or 128MB sticks to both slots. you can add upwards of 256MB in each slot, but that's really just overkill and in the end, all it really does is slow down the boot-up process since the ram is checked

#1512 3 years ago

I have a sheet of NOS P2K glass (straight from williams, still in the original shipping box). the box is huge and heavy (quad walled cardboard) and has foam to keep the glass floating in the center of it. shipping costs will probably be substantial (UPS ground is probably the most cost effective)

asking: $300 plus shipping

I will be able to bring it with me to the chicago expo in october if no one is local to me (livonia, michigan)

2 weeks later
#1582 3 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I got in the part to do Eddy's step by step Martian eye mod

where is this step-by-step guide located? link please!

5 months later
#1712 3 years ago
Quoted from arakissun:

Isn't it 5:4 widescreen?

no, 16:9 is wide screen

5:4 is a slightly different aspect ratio but similar to 4:3

think of it in terms of inches. a 16:9 (widescreen) display would be 16" (w) for every 9" (h) that it is (slightly larger than 1.5x wide as the display is tall

the older 4:3 and newer 5:4 monitors are just slightly wider than they are tall

#1724 3 years ago

sounds like the monitor will need a cap kit. nothing too hard to do if you're used to working on electronics (however, look up some information on how to handle monitors. that flyback holds enough electricity to kill a person if not discharged properly!

go through the service menus and check the switch and lamp matrix tests to make sure that the system sees everything working good. additionally, lift up the playfield and the plastic cover over the power driver board. there are LED indicators there as well

if you do purchase it, you'll probably want to change out the 7 or so capacitors on the computer motherboard as well. that will help "bulletproof" the system

4 weeks later
#1768 3 years ago
Quoted from Lmjdad:

What was originally here on the face of this metal piece?

it was originally a textured tape. I still have am unattached NOS piece that I have not put on my machine yet. I'll see if I can locate it to scan for the dimensions

this product looks very similar to the original material
amazon.com link »

1 month later
#1868 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Glad it went to a home.
For anyone reading this... Never, EVER, toss your CRT unless you know it's has a cracked tube.
These things are no longer being made... eventually, machines will die because no CRTs are left because no one is making tubes anymore.
Someone will take it. Guaranteed.

correction, never, ever toss your CRT <period>

there are many people in the community that can breath new life (myself included) using the proper tube from a 19" tv. not any tube will work, but based on the impedance of the horizontal and vertical guns, a like or near compatible tube from an older television can restore an arcade machine or in this case, a pinball 2000, CRT

plus, if there is an issue with the existing tube, it's much easier (and safer) to ship without that big, glass brick saving the cathode ray tube's yoke and rings will allow nearly any television tube to be used

1 week later
#1901 2 years ago
Quoted from APOLLO_13:

Got it... thanks guys for the help

so, what was the issue?

1 week later
#1931 2 years ago

although kind of long winded, this youtube video is a pretty good one showing you all of the in's and out's of swapping in a tv tube and getting your RFM/SWEp1 display working again

1 month later
#1963 2 years ago

that's an easy one. it's part no. 23-6551
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/38-6551

23-6551 (resized).png

use this site to search and find parts for the games listed. you can put in as much or little information as you know to pare down your results
http://www.moll.no/pinball/parts/

titanpinball.com has also re-produced these in silicone (and in a variety of colors) which look a lot nicer than that nasty yellow that bally/williams used. it cleans up a lot easier and doesn't get as dirty looking from the coil dust and other dirt inside the machine
it's listed as a 'post sleeve - 3/4" bumper (space shuttle)'

4 weeks later
#1983 2 years ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

Hi All!
I'm hoping to join the club in the next few days, or failing that, the next few weeks. In each of the possible cases, I'll be hauling the game in the back of a van. When I've hauled EMs, I've just pulled off the backbox, and when I've hauled newer games, I've folded the backbox down. I'm pretty sure the RFM will fit with the backbox on, but is this a good idea? Is it attached solidly enough, or should I figure on taking it off for transport?
Thanks!

taking the head off definitely lightens the load for carrying it to and from the van (especially if you have to do stairs). each part probably weighs in around 175lbs
and removing the head makes it that much easier to navigate the machine.
disassembly is pretty easy:
- disconnect the 2 sets of wires leading from the head into the cabinet (speaker and power)
- disconnect the ground wire
- remove the 4 bolts securing the head onto the cabinet (2 allen keys are required, but off of the top of my head I don't remember their sizes)

then carefully lift the head off (straight up and then back) of the cabinet

if the cabinet is still too heavy, you can further lighten that load by removing the playfield assembly by sliding it all of the way out of the cabinet (resting the front on the floor) and then disconnecting the 6/7 connectors feeding into the backboard from the power driver board to free it up completely

2 weeks later
#1994 2 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Yep normal behaviour. Ball save doesn’t auto plunge the ball. You’ll turn the save off soon enough anyway

I believe that ball save is turned off by default. someone must have changed the settings for it to be enabled

3 weeks later
#2055 2 years ago

be sure to look at the battery type. it's not a CR2032 like what is used in the stern sam games or the battery on the motherboard in your RFM
it's actually a BR2325

#2057 2 years ago
Quoted from wylcot:

Wow !
I had no idea this thing existed, and I had never heard of Mantis !
Thanks for that !
Definitely gonna get this (and others for other pins !)

the mantis one is the same as what's used in a monster bash. I'm also using both (a cliffy and a mantis) in both my RFM and my MET

#2060 2 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Do my eyes deceive me or is there a hole in the cab mid point just below the rail?

hehe. that's one of the bolt holes where the head attaches to the cabinet

#2081 2 years ago
#2089 2 years ago

if you purchase a ramp flap from planetary it will already come [blued]. it's only the stainless ones from places like pinbits.com that you have to do it yourself. it's kind of a messy process and unless you put it on really even, you're going to notice streaks in it

1 week later
#2104 2 years ago
Quoted from brmorr:

Anyone have a extra set of the posts that bolt through the head and sit on the cabinet rails? One I picked up was missing both and the bolts.
Or anyone know where to get these?

it took me a while to find these, since they are not shown in the manual, but are listed on page 2-4
02-4352-2 - pivot bushing

4700-00111-00 - fw .390 x .875 .062 washer

also, they are not associated with RFM or SWEP1 on marco's website

pivot bushing - cabinet t-nut
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4352

they show that it matches up with this bolt
3/8-16 x 3/4" bolt
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4322-01139-12B

however, if I remember correctly, I thought that both RFM and SWEP1 used another pivot bushing that was male threaded with a slightly smaller allen head (but it's been awhile since I looked at mine

I remember having to use 2 different sized allen wrenches to cinch them up and that the way they were manufactured, you couldn't over tighten each pair (the inner bottomed out with just enough space for the nylon washer

the nylon washer (4700-00111-00)
http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/washer-flat-390-x-875-x-062-black/

#2109 2 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Now that I look at mine, the pivot busing you linked too looks too short.

they definitely call out the -2 part in the manual, but based on your photo its more like the -3 part
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4352-3

1 month later
#2139 2 years ago

I have both a cliffy and a mantis in my RFM for ultimate protection. it's tight, but they both do fit. NOTE: install the cliffy first!! otherwise you'll just end up bending the tabs and ruining the cliffy (in the words of bryan kelly, don't ask me how I know
8BA5DDB4-F641-4775-94BF-8E82A6721B45 (resized).jpeg

#2141 2 years ago

who gave my image an "unsafe" tag? was it too close a shot of the stroke of luck hole for general consumption??

2 months later
#2226 2 years ago

1.5 or 1.6 was the latest official release. I believe there is a 1.8 or 1.9 version that supports an online high score submission

4 weeks later
#2280 2 years ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

The one thing I DO NEED is a source or alternative to the WILLIAMS DAUGHTER BOARD SEPARATION TOOL. I know its a small nylon piece but I can't find the part number in any of the lists with RFM or SWE1. Does anyone have a source for this tool or an alternative from Amazon? I checked Planetary, Marco, and Pinball Life.

I purchased one a while back but I'll be damned if I can remember which supplier I got it from (it was probably one of the australian guys, mr. pinball or pinball spare parts australia). those cell phone spudger tools will work in a pinch, since it's nearly the same

just be careful to work both ends evenly when spreading the 2 boards apart

2 weeks later
#2327 2 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

I think I've seen that the prism card battery is difficult to get at. Any thoughts on how bad it is?

you need to carefully separate the 2 halves of the prism card to remove and replace the battery. note that it is a BR2325 battery

1 week later
#2375 2 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

is this an update that could be loaded onto a PUB card to make it easier for us non computer people

great question. if a pub card can be updated, it might take some of the guess work out of the update

#2407 2 years ago

lamp matrix controlled martian eyes? hell yeah!

#2431 2 years ago
Quoted from embryon:

thanks for the update, will try it soon. My biggest disappointment with pin2000 was that they didn't utilize the graphical interface for some kind of video mode. Many DMD games have really lame video modes which I suppose is due to the limitation with the dmd animations etc. But Pin2000 has the graphics and 4 buttons as well which could have enabled some serious video mode.

have you never made it to "attack mars"? if that's not one of the best implemented interactive video modes, then I'm not sure exactly what you're looking for

#2433 2 years ago

guari777
is what you have for sale, just the ramp flap (stainless or blued metal) or the whole skip ramp assembly?

2 weeks later
#2453 1 year ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

The black is flaking ever so slightly off this piece of metal. How was it applied at the factory and does anyone make a replacement part? If no replacement part is made, how would one scrape and reapply black to it?
[quoted image]

the original adhesive backed decal has a texture to it, amazon sells rolls of a product that it very similar to the original textured material that was used
amazon.com link »

#2454 1 year ago
Quoted from gearheaddropping:

The one thing I DO NEED is a source or alternative to the WILLIAMS DAUGHTER BOARD SEPARATION TOOL. I know its a small nylon piece but I can't find the part number in any of the lists with RFM or SWE1. Does anyone have a source for this tool or an alternative from Amazon? I checked Planetary, Marco, and Pinball Life.

I realize that this post was from about 2 months but I finally uncovered the part no. and link for where I purchased mine separator tool
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/pinball-2000/03-10024.html

unfortunately, their website appears to either be down or they are no longer in business

I did manage to find it here as well for $7 (if they still have stock)
http://www.foramusementonly.to/williams.html

it's located about little over 1/2 the way down the page

#2457 1 year ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Thank you. Have you used it and if so how did it turn out?

I have not used that product. I merely provided a link for it. the textured sticker on my RFM is in great shape

2 weeks later
#2492 1 year ago

if you can find the correct thickness acrylic and get it laser cut, I can heat bend it for you

#2496 1 year ago

it's all up to you, but personally I think that both RFM and SWEP1 look much better with the original CRT type monitors. LCD panels can't come close in providing the blacks to help achieve that effect of fading into the playfield on the mirrorized glass. additionally, I've seen people use the newer 16:9 monitors and not set them into a 4:3 aspect ratio, so the videos appear a bit stretched and the don't line up where the shots are supposed to take place on the actual playfield.

should you choose to go the LCD route, you'll need a set of the brackets, a cardboard bezel and a video convertor to switch the CGA signal to rgb (rob anthony has both items on lockwhenlit.com

lockwhenlit - products (resized).jpg
http://lockwhenlit.com/products.htm
http://lockwhenlit.com/CGA.htm

#2499 1 year ago

if you can find a 20" plasma display to replace the original CRT with, I want to know where and how much

#2506 1 year ago

applejuice should still have his available. they are a very cool set

#2516 1 year ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Thanks everyone guess I have to keep my eyes open and then ultimately decide if SWEP1 is worth 15-1700 to go along with acquiring an RFM.

pssst...
if you ask most people, it's not. unfortunately SWEP1 was developed in a box with no interaction with the rest of the bally/williams team and jpop missed the mark with the shots. (it's mostly a shoot the middle, shoot the middle, shoot the middle... type game)
additionally, when performing the swap from RFM to SWEP1 or back, if you don't have a 2nd rom board and prism board, you have to remove the 2 boards from the computer, separate them carefully and then remove, swap the 10 mask roms and then reassemble everything.

and maybe because jpop was a huge d*+cheb@g, SWEP1 didn't use the same launch button mechanism that RFM did, making it one more item that you need to swap out. why? rumor has it that he received a royalty for the use of his patented silver ball shooter rod plunger from cirqus voltaire

#2523 1 year ago

I think 73" is correct. it's just above my height and I'm 5'-11"

#2536 1 year ago

yep, those large capacitors do their job very well at storing large amounts of energy (which is why you need to be very careful. electricity is very unforgiving

I've discharged the bigger capacitors on an arcade power chassis before by [carefully] grounding both terminals using a screwdriver. the bang it created was huge (think M80 firecracker loudness). additionally, the arc of electricity actually put a small pit mark in the metal shaft of the screwdriver

2 weeks later
#2562 1 year ago

the rivets should be (1/8" dia head) x 5/32" or 3/16" long. if you use anything longer, I would use a backing washer otherwise you won't be able to cinch it down tight enough (roll/flare the rivet end) and the ramp will be loose on the ramp bracket

#2566 1 year ago

if it came with their rivet "kit", I would steer clear and do it the proper way. the press fit rivets will not hold up for this particular item

here's their pressless rivet kit
https://www.pinbits.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=72&zenid=7e322cb21bcefd2009d00e0c8b0e0cdf

I'm also not a fan of the stainless ramp flap (but that's a whole different story). long story short, it sticks out like a sore thumb on the playfield. blue it yourself or purchase one that is pre-blued like these
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-15141
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-01-15141

#2569 1 year ago

I like the decal idea. I wonder if someone could mock up the missing playfield art and cover the flap with that

#2583 1 year ago

there 3 unique keys for the game
- backbox (above translite) and rear panel
- service access which will allow you to remove the lockdown bar & playfield glass for playfield service access (left front)
- coin door

both the backbox and service access keys are single bitted, so you should be able to pick those rather easily without having to drill them. the coin door key is double-bitted

3 weeks later
#2656 1 year ago

the eyes are red lenses with a pair of #44 bulbs underneath. I wonder if the previous owner didn't like the red glowing eyes and covered them up with a decal or something to the effect

2 weeks later
#2719 1 year ago

I posted in the VFW show thread, but I'll post it here too
I've got an extra NOS sheet of pinball 2000 glass (still in the bally/williams shipping box) that I'm looking to sell. price is $200
I will be at the show this friday and saturday, but will only bring the glass if I have a buyer. pm me for details

1 week later
#2759 1 year ago

yep, 3 keys, 4 locks
1 (double bit key) for the head (to remove the translite and access computer) and remove the back door panel (and access the monitor)
1 (single bit key) that allowed a tech to remove the playfield glass and service the machine but not to gain access to the coin box (this is the key hole on the front left)
1 (double bit key) to open the coin door

3 weeks later
#2882 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballConspiracy:

Having a new issue where a ball will end before it drains.. cleaned optos on the boards both sides but still having an issue.. annoying. Is this a common issue for any other RFM owners? Should I order fresh boards or try and reflow solder? Thanks

have you checked the connectors to the opto's? I know that it's a known issue on new stern machines and the recommendation is to re-terminate the wires using trifurcon connectors

1 month later
#3018 1 year ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Installed my knocker... Repurposed a bally knocker from water damaged bally Star trek:[quoted image]

to me, this doesn't seem like a good place for the coil to strike. my guess is that over time, the repeated strikes to the box will cause the varistor or the thermistor inside of the box to fail

#3031 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonic:

MRS Update: I decided to go back to the drawing board to squeeze as much sensitivity as I could from the form-factor before calling this project a success. And to that end, I succeeded....and have 8 completed switches....I've got reznnate for 3 switches and I'd like to get another 4 switches into folks' hands so they can kick the tires on these before I complete more switches......so shoot me a PM - I've got 4 I can ship - but I don't want them squirreled away, but I want them used in a game or what have you....
Here's a pic of #3 (of 8 )
Matt
[quoted image]

congrats matt
those look just like the oem reed switches. I replied to pass for now since I was just looking for back-ups and would rather see others truly in need of them and that can provide feedback back to you. I would think that there have to be a few RFM owners in need as well (since that game uses 3 of them

3 weeks later
#3103 1 year ago
Quoted from alpo3744:

I am moving and need to move my RFM but I can not remember how to take the monitor off and what needs to be disconnected. Is anyone able to help?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-hillary-come-here-you-gotta-see-this/page/40#post-4367238

1 month later
#3188 1 year ago

I could swear that I've seen that plastic as part of the goodie bag. sad part is that all of these "common" parts that were plentiful on ebay just 6 months to a year ago seemed to have drying up

#3197 1 year ago

could be a bad potentiometer altogether. cleaning up a cold solder joint by reflowing won't necessarily correct the issue

#3207 1 year ago

kenlayton is a member here on pinside. you may want to reach out to him since he was the one that wrote the wells gardner K7300 repair guide

#3213 1 year ago
Quoted from TBatti:

If any one needs a new sheet of glass please message me. Not sure what shipping will be but its coming from Canada.

speaking of that (without attempting to steal your thunder), I too have an extra sheet of NOS P2K glass still in the quad walled cardboard shipping box. I can bring it with me to expo for someone that doesn't want to pay shipping. $150

pm me to set up a "drug deal" parking lot exchange at the hotel. I will be there oct 16-19 (wed-sat)

#3226 1 year ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I know this is more than what you need but the price isn’t too bad if it’s indeed a complete set...
ebay.com link

that is definitely NOT a complete set. the question is just how many of the actual 17 playfield (+1 backboard) plastics are included. for $130 you can get a complete set which also includes the 8-9 promo pcs.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-3437-Set

#3237 1 year ago

it's a shame that it has red text. I could knock those out using my zebra printer on BOPP (bopp biaxially oriented polypropylene) which is like candy bar wrapper material and you don't have to worry about it degrading over time. however, I only have access to black film, no red

edit:
apparently, I can order the wax resin film ribbon in red
https://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/red-color-premium-wax-label-printer_60508162250.html

#3239 1 year ago

I used the normal 1/8" nickel plated brass rivets when I put a new ramp on mine and I didn't notice them to be any different from the original rivets

#3242 1 year ago
Quoted from HyyL:

With rivet, do you mean “popnit” (sorry, once again I don’t know the English term)? See picture below what I call popnit.[quoted image]

nope, those are what we term as "pop rivets". see Lhyrgoif explanation. those are the type that I used with my rivet press.

2 months later
#3373 1 year ago

p1nhead
you could always play it safe and order a few extra of each type (plus, that way you're covered in the event of a defective bulb or two

2 months later
#3501 11 months ago
Quoted from zerbam:

still looking for this plastic...........anyone?[quoted image]

I may have a spare. let me check when I get home

#3503 11 months ago

sorry, this is what I found

B8E17E11-5F4D-4369-840A-4B7EA33572E7 (resized).jpeg
1 month later
#3544 10 months ago

unfortunately, I'm leaving the club as well (to make room for my incoming R&M). thankfully, the machine is going to someone that I know that has a nice collection and lives reasonably close by

depending on he decides to purchase from me from my huge collection of extra nos parts, I may be posting a huge list of parts for sale

2 weeks later
#3567 9 months ago

my RFM is sold so I am attempting to go through and catalog all of the NOS parts that I have
I am giving the buyer of the machine first crack at everything but one thing that he doesn't want is the complete ball catcher assy.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-22992

complete and brand new, the asking price is $400 plus shipping
I also have 3 NOS prism card separators. the price for those is $15ea shipped within north America

pm for details

#3596 9 months ago

does anyone know the name/part no. of the service item that allowed you to position it under the monitor with the P2K glass off and still view the monitor image? it looks like a piece of [reflective?] acrylic that sits just above the cabinet and is captured by the [rollers] of the cabinet head to stay in place

#3602 9 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:

You just use the translite. It’s designed to fit underneath

I don’t think that I made myself clear, I have one (it’s an official Bally service part) but
I don’t remember where I got it, what the part no. is or what it’s officially called (after watching the video, it's called a dedicated service mirror)
AFA4EB81-23E7-4B01-A208-70A5DD1DF683 (resized).jpeg

like I stated prior, I’ve left the club and am cataloging all the NOS parts that I have to sell (over $3500 worth of parts)

#3607 9 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Progress on the new updater software. List of software update files working and list of computer specific serial devices working. Also cleaned up the pin2k logo
Still lots to do though
[quoted image]

very nice work (as always)

2 weeks later
#3694 9 months ago

fact:
even though the top of the caps may not be bulging, it's been 20 years since those electrolytic caps were installed. the typical life of an electrolytic capacitor is 5-7 years. as the liquid electrolytic dries up, the capacitors run hotter and hotter, causing the break-away section on the top to burst open

taking care of the problem (before you have a problem) may save yourself a whole bunch of anguish should one or more of them burst and potentially ruin your motherboard

potentially a better solution as a replacement are liquid polymer organic capacitors, which have a life of 25-35 years

2 weeks later
#3759 8 months ago

the buyer of my machine has purchased all of the parts from me that he wanted but I still have over $2,000 worth of NOS parts available.

google docs link:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pSPuHCN1dEF4UThhP-hq-pfQmexcyIlObRNVfiA2iS4/edit?usp=sharing

2 weeks later
#3820 8 months ago

SOLD I found another complete set of new original RFM playfield plastics. this is a complete set except for any of the promo items (11 key chains).
$80 plus shipping.

all pieces still have the protective plastic on them and the set also includes an additional set of slings and inlane plastics
F9D737FC-6B5C-4028-89B0-1009328FA728 (resized).jpeg

2 months later
#4043 5 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

No - that's a splice, because someone else broke it before you did.
Edit: Tobavoid giving wrong info, it may be a diode.
I want someone to cut that open. I me er had an RFM on route, but also never remember hearing about these back in RGP when the games were new!

incorrect. I had some of those in my nos parts. there is a diode in there

#4047 5 months ago
Quoted from Coyote:

See my edit? No? See my edit that you quoted.

haha. I missed the edit portion. it's all good

#4061 5 months ago
Quoted from zerbam:

i like this IDC tool
[quoted image]

the official pancon IDC tools are the best, however they're not cheap (about $80ea

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