(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

6 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #2093 Wells Gardner K700 troubleshooting flow chart Posted by snakesnsparklers (2 years ago)

Post #2187 Links to updating the game code using windows 7 Posted by ForceFlow (2 years ago)

Post #2295 Adding the missing slingshot spotlights Posted by Lhyrgoif (2 years ago)

Post #2312 Version 2.0 custom code announcement Posted by applejuice (2 years ago)


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#180 6 years ago

Nice work pinfidel. I've done a few decals now and one thing I'll add that might have saved you a little time and sanding is try not to forcibly remove the old decals. Try using heat to soften the glue. What happens, and I did this, when you rip the decals off you can remove wood and/or lift the grain and make it somewhat rough and furry. So then you need to sand and bog more than has you been more gentle. Hope this helps.

#185 6 years ago

Pin2000 was a great platform especially seeing the pressure of dwindling market and time constraints they were under.

I wonder why none of the new players haven't tried a similar platform. I'm guessing most are using pc based technology for their games.

Pin2000 did disappoint me in that there was no video mode incorporated. Most dmd's had them no matter how lame they were. Can you imagine the superior video mode that could have been produced. I know nucore had a breakout video game but that really didn't tie in with the theme in my opinion. Also wish rfm utilized the extra flipper button more.

6 months later
#310 5 years ago

Has anyone found a way to update coding using a pc/notebook without a serial port. I never could get a usb serial cable to work. Is there a null modem usb adapter somewhere?

#328 5 years ago
Quoted from RCA1:

Pub card is how I did mine. The data connection near the coin door looks pretty suspect on mine, and the direct plug in of the pub card made it super easy.

I have a pub card but never have used it. How can you use this without a pc with an eisa socket to plug it in to? Or am I stuck without such an old pc?

#330 5 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

If you have the original RFM PC unit in your machine then the PUB card fits into a vacant slot inside the metal box behind your translite (basically like a female JAMMA connector). Has your PUB card got the most recent update on it though?

No I don't even know if it has any. How do you get info onto it in the first place?

#332 5 years ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

You need a Windows computer with an ISA slot to program the PUB card. Why would you buy a PUB card if you had no idea what to do with it?

I know how it works, thought might come across an old pc. Also wanted peripherals that came with p2000 as a collector thing. A bit like why buy a toy and keep it on a box syndrome. I'm sure there's people here with such toys etc.

What caught my eye was maybe there's a way you can do it without the isa pc hence my asking

5 months later
#708 5 years ago

New high score tonight, 2 x attack mars unfortunately didn't complete the second one otherwise I think I would have had a further 200k.hi score.jpg

2 months later
#749 5 years ago

Could someone please provide instructions on how to remove a crt from a pinball 2000. I want to replace mine with a new crt and do not know even where to start. Thanks very much

#751 5 years ago

Has anyone replaced a ducksan with a brand new wells gardner crt on a rfm? I have the old crt out and find the bracketing to mount the new crt chassis does not line up with any two holes. I'm thinking of doing away with this bracket with a think perspex plate that in turn will mount on a solid metal plate that adds stability to the main crt bracketing.

WIN_20151104_200231.JPG

this is the original bracket that you mount the chassis to, pic 2

WIN_20151104_200256.JPG

The next pic is of the stabilizing plate that the mounting bracket attaches to on the other side.

WIN_20151104_200350.JPG

This is the other side of the plate. I actually have attached a sheet of perspex to it in this pic but haven't modified it yet to install plastic pcb standoffs

WIN_20151104_200428.JPG

my question is, is there a better solution or can you see problems with the perspex idea, like heat/melting problems.

#752 5 years ago

Have replaced the monitor but have noticed my WG is model PD137700/PD197700. Have connected 5v on the amplifier, wire config is

Pin. desc
1. red
2. green
3. blue
4. ground
8. ground
10. +/-horizontal sync/comp

Unfortunately I get a terrible picture as shown

WP_20151110_20_11_15_Pro.jpg

WP_20151110_20_11_24_Pro.jpg

I also have no signal appearing on the screen as well as distorted graphics from the game.

Any idea what is wrong or am I missing any wiring? Thank you

#753 5 years ago

Forgot to mention I cannot get the osd button to work to enable any adjustments to the screen, jence the 'no signal in' msg always appearing

I have left the h/v trace in tact on the amplifier.

3 weeks later
#771 5 years ago

Not a guaranteed fix but I know after getting my rfm, the road trip etc, I got the odd lock up usually during a good length of continual play. I removed and reseated the prism and also ensured the foam rubber was positioned to sit over the pcb. No problems since and thats over 8 years ago.

#783 5 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

OK. So, "easier" if you can get it on the first pass. I drained right after I went back to Alien Abduction on the last ball. It would have been quite a bit of play to get through all the modes again from that point. Thanks for the help.

You keep the saucer lights and need to play as many modes necessary to light all saucer lights, then complete a bonus wave. Then mars attacks starts. You really need to try hard to complete most modes perfectly. Mars needs women and mystery mode usually can be missed and you still can light all saucers in one round of modes.

2 weeks later
#798 5 years ago

I think extra ball can be set but default is 30 saucers and then 50 saucers etc

#808 5 years ago

Sorry thats what I meant. You need to score 20 missiles to light it, then 50

#819 5 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

today recieved my PUB update 1.7
and installed my rgb leds in saucers and spots pointing at martians
then put in my fighter jets and tank.
gonna be looking for a cooler better looking tank because my little nephew wants it back soon! lol

P_20151224_170326_(resized).jpgP_20151224_170303_(resized).jpgP_20151224_170236_(resized).jpgP_20151224_170213_(resized).jpgP_20151224_170253_(resized).jpg

What does 1.7 version give you. I thought 1.5 was the latest??

3 months later
#922 4 years ago

Does anyone know of any secret moves on rfm similar to the Queen's Battle on swep1 where if YOU WAIT FOR THE 3 ENEMIES TO APPEAR ON THE SCREEN, YOU CAN PRESS THE OUTTER FLIPPER BUTTONS AND FIRE A LASER TO KILL THEM ALL, EFFECTIVELY KILLING HALF YOUR ENEMIES IN ONE SHOT. DOES RFM HAVE ANY TRICKS LIKE THIS. sORRY FOR THE CAPITALS BUT MY FUCKING MS SURFACE HAS GONE MENTAL ON ME.

3 weeks later
#950 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

At TPF; I developed a Red color issue... where I found out if I wiggle the cable going to the Duckscan PCB; the gun with come back intermittently. This weekend; I decided to pull the monitor and examine the connector for a bad solder joint. As you may know; you have to pull the monitor out of the backbox... disassemble most of the monitor; just so you can get at that connector.
I reflowed the connector and started reassembling the beast. Got it all back together and while putting the monitor back in the back box; I heard the horrifying sound of gas being let into the CRT tube. Somehow; while trying to wrangle the monitor into the box; I snapped the glass tube at the neck board. I was so disgusted with myself I just want to cry.
I *hope* to have a replacement CRT on the way - but just noticed it's on "backorder"; so may never see it. <Sigh>

I had a new WG crt to put in but didn't get around to it. Moved house, and wife flooded the laundry where it was still in box. All good, only box soggy. Wife was impatient waiting for me to put the crt back into the box and did it herself. Neck caught on her jumper and same noise. Brand new never use crt trashed. Bought another and quickly installed it.

7 months later
#1303 4 years ago

Try this first, open up the pc, remove the prism card and reinsert. Make sure the foam rubber on the pc case lid lines up over the prism to add a little but of pressure and keeps it in place. The prism may have come loose during transport. Mine did the same lockups/freezing and has not done it since. Been 7 years now.

1 year later
#1819 3 years ago

Ever since moving house, my RFM seems to go into a ball search mode if I don't plunge the ball for awhile. Do not know what could be causing this. Previously I could leave a ball in the shooter lane, have dinner and come back to complete the game. Now ball searches and I think the ball will be automatically plunged if I delay plunging myself. Any ideas guys

3 months later
#1973 2 years ago
Quoted from Poorpinhead:

Greetings everyone.
I joined the RFM club over this weekend and am loving it. A quick question for you folks so I don’t accidentally break anything. My RFM is using an early generation nucore setup that is running v1.2 of RFM.
I’d like to get that up to 1.6 if possible. So to my question... how do I do that?
Do I need to update nucore itself or can I update RFM through its own menu? My game doesn’t seem to have the parallel port near the key door; so what’s the best way to interface / load this data?

Best to my knowledge it's a serial port for transferring and a null modem cable

1 month later
#2068 2 years ago

My wife cracked the neck on my nib crt and all I heard was the sad hiss noise. The crt never saw a power on. So be very careful.

2 weeks later
#2108 2 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

it took me a while to find these, since they are not shown in the manual, but are listed on page 2-4
02-4352-2 - pivot bushing
4700-00111-00 - fw .390 x .875 .062 washer
also, they are not associated with RFM or SWEP1 on marco's website
pivot bushing - cabinet t-nut
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4352
they show that it matches up with this bolt
3/8-16 x 3/4" bolt
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/4322-01139-12B
however, if I remember correctly, I thought that both RFM and SWEP1 used another pivot bushing that was male threaded with a slightly smaller allen head (but it's been awhile since I looked at mine
I remember having to use 2 different sized allen wrenches to cinch them up and that the way they were manufactured, you couldn't over tighten each pair (the inner bottomed out with just enough space for the nylon washer
the nylon washer (4700-00111-00)
http://shop.mrpinball.com.au/product/washer-flat-390-x-875-x-062-black/

Reason they don'tdo up or shouldn't do up was from a sited pinball perspective. If they were tight anyone could bring an allen key and in theory remove the headbox. Being loose, the bolt would spin freely

4 months later
#2246 2 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I'm one of those owners that are missing the PF spotlights on the two slingshots and as the actual games is rather dark I want to add them myself. The problem is that I haven't found any really good topics on where to solder the lamp wires.
I've done lots of searches and googling and the closest thing I found was this thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/revenge-from-mars-spotlights-adding-to-german-machine
Unfortunately the thread end without the posting of accurate pics on where to solder those wires. I know the actual thread above "kind of" describes where to solder but in fear of doing something wrong I much rather want a pic or two showing the spots rather than guessing from a text description.
I already own the needed extra hex-posts and the spotlights, the only thing I'm missing is the knowledge where to connect them.
So, can someone here that actually have these two spotlights mounted please take a few good pics below their PF so I (and others) can see where the cables should go?
Thanks.

These lights have actual plugs on them. Do you should have two spare plugs dangling under your playfield of which your spot lights would plug into

#2248 2 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

The early RFM pins didn't have those spotlights at all, so no, my wire-harness doesn't have any unused plugs or cables with "loose ends" dangling anywhere. If it was that simple I wouldn't have asked in the first place. I bought the spotlights that I want to add a few weeks ago, completely separate from the rest of the game and they are not something that was mounted on it in the first place.
So, anyone care to trace their spotlight cables to where they are attached and take a few pics below their playfields?

Didn't know some didn't have spotlights. I thought maybe you were new to this game sorry

1 month later
#2417 2 years ago

thanks for the update, will try it soon. My biggest disappointment with pin2000 was that they didn't utilize the graphical interface for some kind of video mode. Many DMD games have really lame video modes which I suppose is due to the limitation with the dmd animations etc. But Pin2000 has the graphics and 4 buttons as well which could have enabled some serious video mode.

1 month later
#2478 1 year ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

So I am considering picking up an RFM (had one years ago with the SW conversion kit). I am (like most I guess) really concerned about hardware failure and being stuck with a dead paperweight.
Nucore doesn't exist anymore and pinbox would be impossible for me to set up based on what I have read and its not something you can "buy off the shelf".
We would want the SW kit as well (which is why pinbox would be great for an easier swap out) but they seem pretty scarce as well.
In addition I don't anyone has ever replicated pin2000 glass either - have they?
LMK you guys thoughts
TIA
Greg

There is still lots of pc parts avail. I have enough for one complete set up, Inc prism etc. Now if you do not want to pay the prices, that's another story

2 weeks later
#2539 1 year ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Hi all. I own a swep1 now and was wondering if it’s still possible to buy swappble rfm playfields and Roms? It would be cool to have both games.

they never made a swap kit for rfm as it was the first game and assumed that owners of rfm would buy the swep1 kits

#2542 1 year ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

just pull gently and firmly, a bit left to right swing and it will go

The switch part he's talking about then you can remove the nut. You feel like you're going to break it but then it just comes off

1 week later
#2556 1 year ago
Quoted from applejuice:

You can use an original pin2k computer to update a pub card to so no regular computer needed at all
A pub card is also the only way to recover a bricked prism from a bodged update

Do you do this from your game or have to remove the pc and plug a screen, keyboard etc. What is the procedure to do a system dump on the pub card
Thank you

1 month later
#2659 1 year ago

Yes thanks very much

#2660 1 year ago

Installed without a hitch. Your version is very polished and I did not see any bugs atm. The hurry up is good but every now and then it covers a graphic that is needed to complete a mode but isn't a big issue.

Didn't get to see payback time and hypno beam isn't a given mode the second time you get the sol. In fact I didn't get hypno in the six games I played. I do like the add a ball to multiball modes

#2668 1 year ago

played attack mars and no change. I think I've activated all changes including hypno beam and payback time. payback looks interesting but only got one shot off and I could see what it is all about. Hopefully next time I can get a few more hits going

1 week later
#2694 1 year ago
Quoted from Ballypinball:

can you update an original RFM with prism card and if so are the instructions available

Yep, if you can update the b/w code follow the same process for this update

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