(Topic ID: 89874)
Linked Games
Revenge From Mars
Bally, 1999
Topic Gallery
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider eddie.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Monroe, NY
8 months later
Quoted from Gov:We need some 3D buildings in the back like the original concept drawing had
935500325_ed2dcf025c_n.jpg
I installed the Martian Ambassador in that spot and he looks real good and is not overbearing.
During gameplay with glass on you can just make him out
Quoted from MustangPaul:That looks really good. Would a spot light with a single led light him up a little better and not be overpowering?
I didn't want him to be a distraction from the screen animations thats why I didn't light him but that is my preference.
Maybe with a colored Led it could work well.
Depending on whats on the screen at the time determines how much you can see him.
If you look for him you can clearly see him, he just doesnt jump out at you which I like.
He is from the Mars Attacks figures but he still goes with the machine color wise, a perfect fit.
Quoted from Jean-Luc-Picard:Look what I found on my doorstep... Well, I think this will look great in RFM
red_bolt_rfm.jpg (Click image to enlarge)
You do understand that lightning flippers are 1/8th shorter than standard flippers and they will affect gameplay?
Just thought I would mention it in case you were not aware.
2 months later
Something not addressed in the CRT/LCD debate is the fact that the animations were drawn to compensate for the curvature of the CRT face.
Therefore on the flat LCD screen they do not appear as they were intended to on the playfield.
One more point is that the CRT Black Level is far superior to LCD screen unless you have a failing monitor or tube.
The black level is what MFGs have been pulling their hair out trying to resolve to match CRTs.
Up to this point its the big elephant and the LCD Golden Egg once the solution is cracked.
Google the subject.
1 year later
4 months later
5 years later
Just installed the ultimarc video amp in a Ducksan Monitor and am having issues.
First let me point out that I have installed many Video amps in Wells Gardner Monitors without issue.
The amp appears to be working as the images are all bright as the amp is intended to do.
However I now have jumping images, the convergence is off, the screen is not really in focus and I can now see that the entire image is tilted.
Are these cap issues or neck adjustment issues? Is there something in the Amp connection that could cause this?
In game play the images are bright but a little out of focus not much and the screen is horizontally stretched sometimes at top sometimes in the middle.
IMG_5348 (resized).jpegIMG_5349 (resized).jpegIMG_5350 (resized).jpegIMG_5351 (resized).jpegIMG_5352 (resized).jpegIMG_5353 (resized).jpegIMG_5354 (resized).jpegIMG_5355 (resized).jpegIMG_5356 (resized).jpegIMG_5357 (resized).jpegQuoted from applejuice:Have you adjusted the actual monitor's pots like the flyback focus and remote board horizontal hold? You often have to adjust these after making changes or just over time as things age.
Yes I have tried that as well as the Brightness and Contrast to no avail.
I will make a video to show the screen jumping in areas and the horizontal deflection in areas.
What is odd is that the jumping happens only in certain screens.
The slight blurryness can be minimalized by turning down the brightness but only to a point. In doing so the screen becomes so dark that it cancels out the installation of the video amp.
Rechecked all of the connections and they are solid!
Reworked the Control PCB and installed the jumper to replace R4 as per the Ducksan info on the topic.
Now by using the Control PCB H-Posi the Menu windows are clear.
Note however that the digits in the time and the PM are crooked.
Entering any test in the diagnostics menu Brings up the crazy crooked images.
The jumping remains in the game.
I did manage to get the flyback to focus just a hair better but not much.
So the take is, rechecking and tightening the wires at the video amp did nothing.
Reworking and cleaning the Control PCB allowed the Diagnostics window to be stable and readable thats about it.
Cap kit is on the way.
I did try flexing all video cables and connections to see if the screen would be altered but it had no effect so the connections do appear to be very good.
I banged on the head to see if maybe something on a video board was loose and or shorting and nothing on the screen changed.
This is a first having working on a monitor and it figures its a ducsan LOL
IMG_5369 (resized).jpegIMG_5370 (resized).jpegIMG_5371 (resized).jpegIMG_5374 (resized).jpegIMG_5375 (resized).jpegIMG_5376 (resized).jpegIMG_5377 (resized).jpegIMG_5378 (resized).jpegIMG_5379 (resized).jpegIMG_5380 (resized).jpegQuoted from Zitt:Examine every solder connections everywhere in that monitor. This screams cold solder joint.
If youre 100% sure the monitor worked without the video amp, remove it and re-verify.
Unless there is a mfg defect with the video amp... I cant explain the behavior. The amp shouldn't cause the problem you're indicating by itself
Yes once I get the caps I will completely Clean and rework the boards
I wanted to remove the amp to see if it has an issue but like a dope I cut the original cable to install the amp. Looking for a stock cable.
3 months later
Quoted from Eddie:Rechecked all of the connections and they are solid!
Reworked the Control PCB and installed the jumper to replace R4 as per the Ducksan info on the topic.
Now by using the Control PCB H-Posi the Menu windows are clear.
Note however that the digits in the time and the PM are crooked.
Entering any test in the diagnostics menu Brings up the crazy crooked images.
The jumping remains in the game.
I did manage to get the flyback to focus just a hair better but not much.
So the take is, rechecking and tightening the wires at the video amp did nothing.
Reworking and cleaning the Control PCB allowed the Diagnostics window to be stable and readable thats about it.
Cap kit is on the way.
I did try flexing all video cables and connections to see if the screen would be altered but it had no effect so the connections do appear to be very good.
I banged on the head to see if maybe something on a video board was loose and or shorting and nothing on the screen changed.
This is a first having working on a monitor and it figures its a ducsan LOL[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Just installed a cap kit and made a new Video cable.
All connections are perfect and were tested for continuity.
I forgot to answer a previous question about the Cutting the trace on the Ultimarc board when connecting to a Ducksan Monitor.. Yes I had done that during the initial installation.
The issue remains does anyone have any other ideas to try? Thanks.
Quoted from Zitt:Is the yoke loose on the tube? Wondering if you gave a loose yoke which went out of alignment when you worked on it.
The Yoke is tight. The video issue began with the installation of the video amp before I had done any work on the monitor.
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider eddie.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
