This thread has really helped me get up to speed on getting my RFM in the best possible state.
As thanks, I present my LED monitor setup.
My RFM did not come with a CRT, but it did come with this crappy little 19" flat panel Dell monitor.
It was definitely not bright enough and it did not look good at all.
I immediately replaced it with a 22" Dell (SE2216H) that was on Amazon for $90.
This monitor is nice because:
1. It spans the opening of the RFM CRT hole by some margin on the left and right sides.
2. Its brightness and contrast are pretty darn good, especially for the price.
3. It will line up the the virtual images on the field very nicely.
4. It has options to set the horizontal width and offset.
I created my own mounting system for less than $10 by using conduit clamps and old coil stops.
There is a conduit clamp at the top middle and bottom middle.
There are two coil stops at the two bottom corners.
The empty space around the monitor is covered with black poster paper and tape to hold that down.
I will say that mounting the monitor as high up in the hole as possible helps you to not have to crouch to see the image.
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You still need the CGA/VGA converter (http://lockwhenlit.com/products.htm) to use this monitor.
Mine was already installed so I cannot say how complicated it is to put together.
However, I will say that you should make sure the dials (labelled RP1, RP2, and RP3) on it are cranked all the way up!
This will maximize the brightness of your display.
Mine originally were not, and I only figured it out since my dad had been on another RFM the day before and said mine was not so bright.
If you cannot see the purple space and colors in the bonus screen, that is a good sign that you need to modify your screen settings.
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I also invested in a scan-line generator (Walfront Screen Scan line Generator) to give that old-school look and feel.
It was only about $20 on Amazon, and though completely unnecessary it is cool.
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You can also see a giant black knob in the above picture.
This is for a LED light I installed in placed of the tube-light.
It is powered by connection to 12V in a molex connector inside the PC (I had to snip the power adapter the lights came with).
I got this since I did not want the bright lights on the back-glass to cause so much glare on the play-field and the knob lets me fine tune it.
The final product?
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Dublin, OH
