That's your transformer secondary voltage selector. Those come in several different configs to support 220v, 115, and 100v line voltage.

Likely you just have a bad crimp in one of the pins.

Yup!
I made a custom one for a 100v line when my TZ was in a location that had only 105v feeds..

I don't know the Molex part number (there were 9-pin and 12-pin throughout the WPC/Pin2000 era, and not sure which one yours has), but you can get one and pins from digikey or mouser. The schematics/manual should have the pinout for the plug in them, showing the different options for different live voltages.

(Note - this is assuming that the loose pin/crimp is in the jumper plug. It's possible it's in the socket in the metal cage..)

Auto Parts store should have 'em.

Huh. Mine does.. (Though, this may be because I live in a rather very rural place, and tractors are common..)

Sorry!

Edit: Hell, you're 30-45 mins from me. I have some if you wanna drive up and pick 'em up! (Would have to be in the evening, though, as I work during the day..!)

Yeah -
The AutoZone on Washington (at US340) had them two months ago. As did the TSC on 340 (east of Charles Town, towards Harpers Ferry behind the Sheetz) as of last summer.

I should be home most of the weekend (likely gone Sunday until noon..) so if you don't find any, let me know I can give you some of mine. (My TZ's still without a PF, so I don't need the ones I have.. And since my ONLY game is sitting in pieces, I don't have anything you could play yet, sorry.) Edit to add - I'm just off of 9 as well, so I'm not far out of the way.

OLED, baby!

Is it stil available for that price? I could swing down that was on my way to Minneapolis in a couple weeks. The downside is that I'd have to load it up in the back of my pickup and store in my hotel room until I headed back through the upper-midwest (Chicago, Tulss, etc) on my way back.

I ordered those a few weeks ago for my Rock'n'Bowl arcade redemption. These are *fantastic*, and the light color output is just right, as well. I can't recommend these enough - and like mentioned, they're rotate-able so no modifying the sockets.

(And for those of you hesitating to remove the ballast and such.. I wouldn't worry about it. The LED tubes will be a lot more common in the future, and with the ballast and starter out of the picture, the backbox will run cooler, and with less UV output to damage or fade any plastics.)

What?? Won't any Socket 7 MB with an ISA lot work? Because that MB in the ebay auction looks pretty standard.. no special connectors or anything.

Interesting - good to know!

Why are we shouting? O.o

Yeah - that's coin door info, not game info, just for the record.

No "mod" is needed, honestly. Just get an LED replacement tube.

You need to get a degausser coil. They're on eBay for between $30 and $100. Save it, use it whenever you see color bleeding or fading like that. (Works on all CRT tubes; TVs, computer monitors, and arcade monitors.)

There are directions online (check youtube) on proper use of one, once you get it.

Yeah, no LEDs out there will support dimming. You'll need the OCD board to notice the effects..

.. And if your caps have ohms listed on them, they're not rally going to work at ALL.

It's okay, i was just being a smartass.

You should, to better use your time, look to see where that power for the outlet is coming from. Likely, you'll find a way OFF the island.

If it WAS a magnet, it's a very easy fix. Get a degausser and degauss the monitor.
If that doesn't correct it, then you'll need to have a tech look at it.

But if it just needs a degaussing, it's not a reason to ditch the whole thing.

And the difference between 5:4 and 4:3 is almost impossible to tell with the naked eye. (5:4 = 3.75:3) It's almost nothing compared to difference between 16:9 and 4:3.

True, but I have NEVER seen a monitor without a 'fit' scaling mode in its menu.

They likely did not use a single model CRT. Any CRT of the same size was likely used, as was common with arcade games of the era.

WPC (Through 1987)

Uuh.. When, exactly, do they think WPC (originally WPC-89) came out?

Also notice that the stainless ones are NOT the same thickness. If you go too thin, it will give, and in some cases that will cause some airballs.

What the flying fack? SOmeone drill through the insert? Did it melt?

No - that's a splice, because someone else broke it before you did.

Edit: Tobavoid giving wrong info, it may be a diode.

I want someone to cut that open. I me er had an RFM on route, but also never remember hearing about these back in RGP when the games were new!

Be sure to grab the code off those eoroms before you do..!

Prototype software. Likely was free play only as they did not want operators trying to run it and cause playability issues.

See my edit? No? See my edit that you quoted.

No worries. I am big enough to admit when I'm wrong! And small enough to hide behind a typo'd edit.

No question - Ron.

Ah, you are right - when I read his comment about buying from 'coinopparts', I thought it was an old NOS field. My bad!

No, that is the neck board. Be real careful around the CRT's neck.
There will be another board, where those wires are connected to. That's the chassis, and that will have the 120v plug.

Deleted, since apparently I somehow posted in the wrong thread. Nothing to see here!

I believe that last one should actually be "1R" and not "1L". So "3R, 1L, 1R". That's how it is on WPC95 games at least. The last alternate single press is used to indicate that you're "finished" entering. (Both is how you tell the game "okay, I'm starting".)

Honestly don't know - I never knew about this code on RFM before, so never tried.
Keep in mind, the code MAY be dependant on a certain version of software, or do something 'hidden', like activate a special animation that will play the next time you make a certain shot..

XINA, ABC
I believe that the second one there is supposed to end with a R tho?

ABC

Starting with WPC-95, all codes started with B. This told the game you were doing something special. Then on a flipper(*), enter in the first letter. Hit the opposite to enter that in. Then on the first flipper, second letter. Then other flipper to enter it in. And so on. After the last letter is entered in (x flipper, 1 other flipper), hit the opposite flipper just once to end the input.

I do not know if Pin2K is the same, bot on WPC-95, you can start with EITHER flipper, and end with a single press on the opposite. So, for example, on CV, you could enter:
B, 14R, 1L, 5R, 1L, 15R, 1L, 14R, 1L, 1R. ... OR
B, 14L, 1R, 5L, 1R, 15L, 1R, 14L, 1R, 1L.

You have to be somewhat quick and consistent with the flipper presses.

This mostly useless post is brought to you by caffeine, and being stuck in the airport for hours.

You need a CRT Signal generator. Something like this - http://craftymech.com/arcade-test-pattern-generator/

OLED panel will. IF I ever had a RFM, and wanted to/had to upgrade my CRT, I'd limit myself to an OLED screen.

In theory, if you got one with the same height, but wider, you could 'letterbox' the signal (for example, using an OSSC or other upscaler). Just shot-gunning here, tho.

However, yes - the lack of 4:3 screens these days is utterly devastating for us arcade/coin-op guys.

OLED actually has a better contrast ration than CRT - when it's 'black', that pixel is completely off - not emitting ANY light. No backlight, so like LCD (or "LED") monitors, there's no bleedthrough.

However, finding one that will fit, is the issue. There used to be a company that would custom-cut an OLED panel to whatever size you specified, but then you'd need to work out a driver for it and all. Not an easy task.

Make sure coil stop, and coil bracket are tight and holding the coil securely. That the whole coil frame is tight on the playfield and can't shift side to side. Check the plunger/kicker end, and make sure it's clean and straight, and there's not chunks missing from it, etc.

Pipe it through a processor, like an OSSC, and you can get that. The delay/lag added should not be noticeable.