(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"

By kjm8888

9 years ago


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  • Latest reply 27 hours ago by BlackBelt
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Topic index (key posts)

13 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #2093 Wells Gardner K700 troubleshooting flow chart Posted by snakesnsparklers (5 years ago)

Post #2187 Links to updating the game code using windows 7 Posted by ForceFlow (5 years ago)

Post #2295 Adding the missing slingshot spotlights Posted by Lhyrgoif (5 years ago)

Post #2312 Version 2.0 custom code announcement Posted by applejuice (5 years ago)

Post #2348 Updating Pinbox systems with "Mypinballs" newer code Posted by applejuice (5 years ago)

Post #2824 CORRECT rubber kit for Revenge From Mars Posted by Sonic (4 years ago)

Post #6222 Code improvements identified. Posted by harig (4 months ago)

Post #6265 Link to Nucore forum. Posted by Rene368 (4 months ago)

Post #6283 LCD advice. Posted by rygar (4 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider clytor.
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#2491 5 years ago
Quoted from Dayhuff:

Nope, somebody swooped in last night and bought the only one he had. So I'm still looking for one. I'll take a used one as long as it's in useable shape.
John

If I'm recalling it correctly, that probably wouldn't be the hardest part to make. Hopefully it won't come down to that.

1 week later
#2520 5 years ago
Quoted from GCS2000:

Thanks everyone guess I have to keep my eyes open and then ultimately decide if SWEP1 is worth 15-1700 to go along with acquiring an RFM.

GCS2000 come play our RFM at The Richmond Pinball Collective in the meantime

#2526 5 years ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

Having some issues with my WG monitor.
After installing the Ultimarc video amp. The red was gone. If I wiggle the molex connector on the chassis, red comes back to life. I did either break the molex connector or just have a cold solder connection. The connector has probably never been removed. It was really tight to get off.
I will have to pull out the chassis anyway in order to reflow solder on this molex connector. So I am going to install a cap kit wich is probably a good idea. The monitor was working fine. But I don’t want to mess around with it to often. So I just need to pull out the chassis once. I want to keep the CRT as long as possible. I don’t like TFT panels.
My question. Is it possible to get the chassis out. Without having to remove the entire monitor from the game? I don’t want to break anything...
I did already discharge the tube. I don’t want to kill myself

I'm sorry I don't know the answer for but it did remind me of the tube and chassis swap I did on mine. PSA- A Happ Vision Pro 19" tube and chassis will bolt right on to the original WG frame.

3 weeks later
#2584 4 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

There are a few options @ PBL. The WPC is simple and has a common connector.
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=knocker
As for the position, I think anywhere towards the back of the cabinet would be good. The head would be nice, but that would be a long run.

I may be being a little overcautious but I wouldn't want that thing too close to the monitor.

2 weeks later
#2613 4 years ago
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:

My friend's RFM has started turning off, here is the info I have:
1. He said it takes longer than usual lately to boot up, maybe 1 minute now and it didn't used to take that long.
2. When the game finally boots, he can start a game and the ball ejects into the shooter lane as usual. After flipping the ball around for about 10-15 secs the game shuts off completely and does not respond again until it's power cycled.
He still has the original capacitors on the PC motherboard so I will be replacing them as a good practice. What else could cause the complete shutdown? Could it be a bad MOV or something else on the power line? Would a failing AT power supply cause this?
Thanks in advance for any help. I still have a lot to learn about pin2k.

Are the CPU and power supply fans running? Check the 5V line on the power supply. If the voltage dips below 5v, it could definitely shut the game down.

1 month later
#2784 4 years ago

This game was designed for completely safe software updating through the front.

#2814 4 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Just replace all microswitch rollover switches. wpc-95 and pin2k cherry switches don't last. They were crap quality

I had so many switches out on mine when I got it that you would have thought I had a switch matrix problem...

2 months later
#3121 4 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

9 out of 10 times it's the monitor chassis board that will have gone and not the monitor itself. The chassis boards can be repaired! I don't have this machine any more but i will always advocate keeping the machine CRT whenever it is still possible.

This^ and adding the Ultimarc video amplifier makes the picture look even better on your CRT.

3 weeks later
#3190 4 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

any one have this plastic that i need?[quoted image]

I had a broken one too. I took it to a sign shop and they were able to scan it and create a new one. I just had him do it in black plastic because it's mostly in a dark area and would make fabrication much simpler. I found a picture of it online, adjusted it to scale, and took that with what was left of my broken plastic.

RFM new 1 (resized).jpgRFM new 1 (resized).jpgRFM new 2 (resized).jpgRFM new 2 (resized).jpg
3 months later
#3442 4 years ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

Holy crap thank you for the very detailed response! I started with what Zitt suggested and I tested all the transistors and they all checked good with two exceptions (see picture). Do you guys happen to know the part numbers for these transistors lol?
[quoted image]
Edit: to be clear, these two transistors (the exact ones needed for the shaker and knocker) were depopulated on my board. Why? I have no idea. But "there's yer problem"

I bet someone did what I have done in the past. If you have a transistor die on a game out in the field and don't have a spare one on you, look in the manual to see if there are any transistors on the board that aren't being used that game. Remove the unused transistor and replace your bad one.

1 week later
#3458 4 years ago

I'm not looking forward to fixing this...does anyone have a scan or picture of this area that they can send me? I think this is the insert I need-
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7166-2
75540257_10220752581987502_5189785876279853056_n (resized).jpg75540257_10220752581987502_5189785876279853056_n (resized).jpg

#3460 4 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

What the flying fack? SOmeone drill through the insert? Did it melt?

My best guess is incandescent bulbs weakened it over time and maybe an airball landed on it squarely?

#3461 4 years ago

We have had it in our pinball club for a couple years now.

1 month later
#3517 4 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

still looking for this plastic...........anyone?[quoted image]

A sign shop made me one in black plastic. That area of the game is so dark, you hardly notice it's not full color. @zerbam, I might be able to get another one if you're interested.

1 month later
#3598 3 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

Clay just used the backside of the translite when he worked on mine

That's smart. I remember reading that somewhere, now that you mention it.

#3609 3 years ago
Quoted from harig:

nice! they had quite some really smart ideas back then with Pinball2000
Compared to WPC/WPC95 there were some really nice new features added.

They seemed to put so much thought into this system. I can only assume that some of the ideas in these games weren't adopted by Stern and others, later, because of cost?

1 week later
#3648 3 years ago

I have finally gotten around to putting in a shaker and knocker. I took the solenoid bracket assy off a scrap DE Playboy playfield I have. 23-800 might a bit much but we'll see. Now I'm just waiting on printer ink to come in so I can try my hand at putting a water slide decal on a replacement insert. On that note, should I put a piece of mylar over that insert once I glue the insert w/decal back in?

UaV7Ali3ROmBK3zQbd+v9w (resized).jpgUaV7Ali3ROmBK3zQbd+v9w (resized).jpgSJjUnbtRQ26+jh7NrHP6eA (resized).jpgSJjUnbtRQ26+jh7NrHP6eA (resized).jpg
#3654 3 years ago

Our RFM is now running applejuice 2.2 software. The knocker is a nice addition but my 23-800 coil is a little much. I think the Nextdoor neighbor can probably hear it when it fires The shaker is really cool!

#3655 3 years ago
Quoted from Nysbadmk8:

So I just picked up and RFM to stand in with my AFM... can someone give me a quick Synop of what I should "do" to it IE "correcting" the problem areas? Etc?
Thanks!

Cliffy's protectors and Ultimarc video amplifier if either isn't already there.
https://www.ultimarc.com/arcade-vga-and-video/arcadevga-accessories/arcade-monitor-video-amplifier/
http://www.passionforpinball.com/rfm_pro.htm

#3674 3 years ago
Quoted from TikiPinball:

Interesting link- thanks again Irishbastard! It gave me two additional clues- it may be the flyback, but if not, then the neckboard, Also- I was just in there and the boards in the head of my machine are covered in crud. It was on route in a French bar for 6 years before I got it and the condensed cigarette smoke has left a generation of dust sticking to everything. I will start with that board, and a good cleaning may help,
Or not, in which case at least I know I tried. Anybody out there with a good monitor in the DC area?

Cleaning will likely not help the defocusing issue but can help the chassis run cooler, I suppose. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but if you find someone with a good 19" monitor that is not originally from a RFM, you will have to move the replacement tube and chassis to the monitor frame that is originally in the game. This isn't anything too tough but just something to be aware of.

#3702 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballfan2000:

Does anybody know what is 'Martian Tank' mode about? I have never seen that mode, I only saw name of that mode in the beggining of picking Mystery mode

"Martian Tank:
This mode is pretty tough to complete. Basically there is a moving tank target with two martians sitting aboard on both sides. The object is to destroy both martians. Doing this will get you a Flawless rating. Good luck."

http://pinball.org/rules/revengefrommars.html
I didn't understand beyond trying to shoot for targets as the tank is close to them.

1 week later
#3720 3 years ago

BTW, this game sounds great with a powered sub hooked up. There is plenty of low end information that the stock speakers don't put out. I tapped onto the speaker line with a Pinnovators Pinsub attenuator pcb.

2 weeks later
#3770 3 years ago
Quoted from pinballfan2000:

Can anybody tell me rules for Happy hour (drunk flippers) mode, and how is it started?
I unfortunately have never seen that mode in one of RFM gameplay videos, but'd like to know rules about Happy hour (drunk flippers). I only heard name for that mode here in RFM change log, and here in this thread
Thanks in advance,
Peter

It can be turned on or off in the software menu. As far as I know, it makes Martian Happy Hour have reversed flippers. Otherwise you get to Martian Happy Hour as you would normally. This is only on the newer software that Applejuice has written.

#3805 3 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

It's a hack... and your power box is missing the transformer configuration plug. Be careful because you don't know how its connected... it could be always on (a hot connection directly wired to the AC power lines).
Here is a link to some pictures of my restoration... you can find some power box pics in there for reference...
https://photos.app.goo.gl/rAhmGBEYxmqfAD5cA

Nice work sir!

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