(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

5 years ago



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  • 3,350 posts
  • 308 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 hours ago by Fliptronic
  • Topic is favorited by 137 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic

Post #2093 Wells Gardner K700 troubleshooting flow chart Posted by snakesnsparklers (1 year ago)

Post #2187 Links to updating the game code using windows 7 Posted by ForceFlow (1 year ago)

Post #2295 Adding the missing slingshot spotlights Posted by Lhyrgoif (11 months ago)

Post #2312 Version 2.0 custom code announcement Posted by applejuice (11 months ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#525 4 years ago

Thanks!

Will check that tonight

1 week later
#542 4 years ago

or just grab one from an old PC before it's recycled etc...

4 months later
#742 4 years ago

No amp with the LCD

3 months later
#826 3 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

do you guys know, my rfm has a green cyrix motherboard , will it run with the yellow cyrix motherboard to
do i have to change stuff if i swap boards?
greetz

I think you need to go by motherboard model not color

There is a Pinball 2000 FAQ page somewhere that lists the motherboards that work, and I think there are only 2 models that work as p2k needed a special graphics chip that was only on those 2

Why would you change your motherboard?

#830 3 years ago
Quoted from jorro:

this is the board
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SMALL-SIZED-LSI-Cyrix-MediaGX-CX5520-Gxm-CPU-MOTHERBOARD-ISA-PCI-SDRAM-22W-20D-/221928949948
bought it as backup for if mine ever fails by capacitor exploding
dont know were or how to get nucore or pinbox (not good at computer programming to!)

always good to have a spare

4 weeks later
#841 3 years ago
Quoted from osudrummer:

No SWEP1 club I wanted to check to see if anyone knows the latest available LED tube I can use to replace the fluorescent tube. Also should I be proactive and replace my power supply, fan, etc or wait until something goes wrong? Mine has 1,000 plays and was HUO. Unfortunately I have a Ducksan monitor so not sure I will try to tackle the vidamp.
Any suggestions appreciated.

My ducksan monitor works great for now FYI. That being said I do have the amp and the lcd just in case, but replacement might not be needed depending on the picture you are getting. Recapping and other things can help too, but i don't know a lot about that kind of stuff

6 months later
#1083 3 years ago

I used a UV filter on a tube, but somebody else converted to leds... Choices

1 month later
#1185 3 years ago
Quoted from merccat:

Clean looking machines!
I'm curious to see how you managed to get the 24" LCD monitor in there. The best I could squeeze was 22" and I still wasn't really happy with it (not to mention the dark levels).
I'll be picking up a nice original CRT this week, but still curious since you mentioned having to cut the cabinet.

It was pretty easy and cheap to find the right sized lcd on ebay

I'd be afraid that the larger the monitor the lower the actual resolution would be?

I still have a ducksan tube in mine and it looks great. I bought the amp but the install with ducksan looks like a bear.
I got the lcd, an off the shelf pc, and pinbox as a "just in case back up". I bought the lcd mount kit, but people have been able to do it with out it. My friend did lcd, pc, and pinbox for $160

#1186 3 years ago
Quoted from BobC:

It was pretty easy and cheap to find the right sized lcd on ebay
I'd be afraid that the larger the monitor the lower the actual resolution would be?
I still have a ducksan tube in mine and it looks great. I bought the amp but the install with ducksan looks like a bear.
I got the lcd, an off the shelf pc, and pinbox as a "just in case back up". I bought the lcd mount kit, but people have been able to do it with out it. My friend did lcd, pc, and pinbox for $160

lcd's look pixilated btw compared to crts

10 months later
#1635 2 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Do peoples machines have a stopper/cap on the posts on the left plastic, under the ramp and Martian? Mine doesn't and the plastic jumps occasionally

Mine has plastic posts to stop balls from being trapped

3 months later
#1771 1 year ago
Quoted from aerobert:

Make sure to use a scanning generator with a LCD. It really sharpens up the image if you have proper resolution /scaling.

Where do you get one?

5 months later
#2007 1 year ago

What's the deal with LEDs in a P2K again?

I know they error out in test mode, but do they ghost or strobe or something?

Thanks!

BobC

2 months later
#2145 1 year ago

I know...this is a lame question. But how much do you think a routed RFM is worth? Unfortunately the Pinside machine list says the RFM price range is only $2680 - $3120. But the Boston Pinball Ebay summery from 2013 to 2018 says averages for 2013 3,299, 2014 3,235, 2015 3,802, 2016 3,266, 2017 4,123, 2018 3,500, and overall 3,567

It's routed with some wear on the side of the cab from a strap during shipping and in front where the door lock bar padlock was. Playfield has some chipped paint where the balls drain (can't be seen normally and spot is now coated with varathane) also wear in front of the left most square target in front of the ball catcher (reinforced targets installed and varathane put on wear spot)

Other than that it's pretty much very good with a great condition tube monitor and original PC, cliffy, plastics protectors, painted Martians, extra plastics set, 3D- translite as well as original, target decals, new ball catcher plastic, new flap, extra flap, extra "modern" PC with pinbox disc, LCD monitor when needed, and LCD mount...and some other stuff odds and ends.

Location is California if that matters.

Thanks!

BobC

#2146 1 year ago

Oh! It has an extra playfield glass too

#2151 1 year ago

Thank you everybody for your input.

I'll be leaving the "Club" at the end of the month : (

The game will be on location at Phoenix Games in Concord California

BobC

Quoted from ypurchn:

Those extras are nice but I’m not seeing anything that is truly unobtainium- maybe the flaps? So not much value there IMO.
I “think” these PFs were fairly robust as I don’t see many pop up with obvious wear. Maybe 1 in the last year of the pinside adds. So it’s lived a hard life IMO. mid-high 2s? No way I go over 3 with the PF wear and even then it’s a hard sell. If it’s been well maintained and going into a home environment that box of parts is just an expensive insurance policy for some day that may never come. Could maybe flip the plastics and translite? Or just let him keep the parts and buy the game as is?

#2160 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

You should be able to reach in there from the back... no need to remove anything. Do it with the game off, of course. If you are worried about high voltage, leave the game off for a day (it will self-discharge).

I would still manually discharge it just in case

3 months later
#2329 10 months ago

I sold my RFM to somebody who has it on location.
I never had this problem, but they say it's been rebooting on it's own occasionally.
It's all original hardware running version 1.6.
They are saying it's a software version issue.
Somebody else is saying it has to do with not enough RAM and the Martian Bowling mode.
I might have added some RAM back in the day...regardless they say they are getting this info from Pinside, but I have never heard of either of those explainations. And as I said I never had a problem, so I am skeptical it's a version 1.6 or not enough RAM issue.
I think more likely there might be a power supply voltage issue, over heating due to a bad fan, or cards/RAM/chips need to be reseated.
Any thoughts on this?

Thanks!

BobC

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