Revenge From Mars
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I'm waiting on a set of OSHPark boards which I designed to be a "plug-in" play implementation of the "video amplifier mod". The idea is it plugs into the front end of the video cable between the cable and the video card instead of "inline" on the main cable.
If there is interest; I'll post here about the success or failure here.
Good to hear. I may make a design change to change the "output" connector from a right angle to a straight PCB mount so one can simply plug it in from the rear of the machine. I looked today and saw that the current design may cause an interference issue. I'll know more when I have it assembled and can test fit it.
Quoted from MustangPaul:My monitor looks really good now so how much would this improve the picture?
IDK; tbh. Several people in this thread and other places SWEAR by the mod saying it's a night and day difference.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/amazing-rfm-video-mod
You can see how the current method isn't plug-in-play from the thread above.
I'll do my best to take before and after pictures once I have it ready.
My goal is to have the RFM w/ the amp at TPF'16 in a few weeks; so I'm planning on assembling them this weekend if not earlier. (assuming all the parts arrive by then)
Got the board and some of the parts today. the non-Right angle VGA connector comes tomorrow (ordered last night).
The idea is to be a completely plug-in-play solution; If we have to pull +5V from the PC... then I have an idea on that as well.
I appreciate the "trust"; wait till you see the new products for Stern Star Trek. 
For those who what to know... my initial RFM video amp board was functional - but seemed to oversaturate the video signal. BUT; it seemed to get the +5V directly from the VGA connector; negating a need for external psu.
I need to either do some competitive analysis... or look at the signals again.
Quoted from lurch:Seriously don't sweat the MB. The caps on this board are the weak point. If you do have problems find someone who does this kind of work and have them replace the caps. I had mine swapped locally for $80 and I was back up and running in a day.
If you get this issue... contact Rob Anthony at LockWhenLit.com .... as I recall he has stated many times he can work on motherboards and prism cards.
At TPF; I developed a Red color issue... where I found out if I wiggle the cable going to the Duckscan PCB; the gun with come back intermittently. This weekend; I decided to pull the monitor and examine the connector for a bad solder joint. As you may know; you have to pull the monitor out of the backbox... disassemble most of the monitor; just so you can get at that connector.
I reflowed the connector and started reassembling the beast. Got it all back together and while putting the monitor back in the back box; I heard the horrifying sound of gas being let into the CRT tube. Somehow; while trying to wrangle the monitor into the box; I snapped the glass tube at the neck board. I was so disgusted with myself I just want to cry.
I *hope* to have a replacement CRT on the way - but just noticed it's on "backorder"; so may never see it. <Sigh>
May not have a choice regarding LCD. My hope was to keep the machine original; but MCM Electronics put my CRT order on backorder... then outright cancelled it yesterday. There just isn't any stock left of Tubes. 
Does anyone have pointers to stock of LCD adapter plates / Info?
My assumption is Pinball Life carried them with the NuCore stock... but I haven't looked to see if they still do.
Good info. For now; I'm going to try and keep the system "stock-ish" with a CRT from GOV. Else; LCD maybe my next step.
I'm not one to shy away from a tube swap if necessary.
Wow ... yes... that looks like EARLY alpha code.
I'd serious consider updating to a later version before chasing any bugs.
Quoted from Badamack:Does anyone have evidence that a video amp could or could not 'burn up' a crt? I've heard some concern about the way they 'overdrive' the monitor...
AMPs don't overdrive the monitor. The issue is RFM doesn't output the right level voltages to the CGA monitor - IE the voltage is too low.
A correctly designed amp would output just the right voltage level to be compliant to the monitor. So it wouldn't cause burn.
a Cap Kit WILL cause you problems if not installed. If your High Voltage or any other cap goes... it'll cause an overvoltage in the monitor which will fry components. Do yourself a favor, if you suspect Caps are an issue. Fix it first.
Quoted from wayout440:Have you tested the caps to see if they are actually bad?...or are you assuming the caps are bad simply because of a weak/faded picture quality. All mine needed was the amp.
On my duck scan; when I pulled for cap kit... there were SEVERAL caps that were bulging ready to go.
So; yeah... if you suspect you are still running original caps... it's time to consult a professional.
Quoted from iEatHands:4. The pop pin which captures the ball during the cut scenes doesn't drop on it's own, typically needs a flip of a flipper and it drops and releases the ball, is this how it is meant to be? I played one on location and it had the same behaviour.
Yeah... As I recall it allows you to watch the video/cut scenes in peace before the mayhem starts. I think it does that uniformily for almost all the modes with the exception of one or two buggy transistions?
I think I stopped at 1.5... and didn't upgrade to 1.6.
I don't remember why specifically... it may have had something to due with a bug which prevented a network card from working... or an actual bug.
Quoted from awarner:Flat Panel, Flat Panel, Flat Panel!
I'm suppose to be getting a donor CRT at TPF... I'm *trying* to keep this thing original ... but it's hard to do.
If this donor CRT has bad burn in... or my tube swap become fail... then well; yeah - LCD is the back up plan.
Quoted from ypurchn:Error message "Lock diverter stuck open" - Wiring looks good. Mechanisms looks good. Can easily actuate by hand under and on top of PF so I don't think anything is binding. Looking at the exploded diagram the only thing that is sticking out to me is a bad coil? Thoughts? Wanted to check before I dropped $25+ on a coil
Did you do a coil test to see if voltage is getting to the coil? I'd be inclined to be a bad coil... or more likely a bad driver transistor.
Quoted from ypurchn:So I'm leaning towards this one being a switch issue? But curious as to why the switch 15 error is now cleared if that's the case.
I have seen bad switches in my RFM... due to green "gunk" which I wasn't able to determine the cause of. Either solder used on my machine is causing issues... or there the flux used was causing issues. It could be the switch... but I think I'd use the switch diag screen to verify both switches "fire" when the drop target is manually actuated.
Quoted from awarner:I'm starting my RFM restore / upgrade this weekend. Most of what I'm doing will tick off the purists. I'm removing the computer and replacing it with a PinBox. The monitor is a 4X3 20" flat panel. Translite will be 3-D. Bill Ung Saucer Kit. New side art, cabinet cleaning/repaint, side rails, T-Moulding, Legs, etc.
I've been wanting to put my some of my Translucent PopBumper bodies on my RFM... but I haven't gotten around to it yet due to the monitor issues. Too many projects... too little time. I'm thinking the green body would look awesome.
Quoted from Mancave:Like the sound of those, would match my Galaxian green T-Molding nicely Just clicked on the link, international shipping available?
Yes, I ship internationally - but you could also buy from the Pinball.Center if you wanted to. For you it is probably a "wash" for who would be cheaper to ship.
Electrolytic caps go bad all the time from this era.
It's a lot cheaper to order replacements than it is to fool with it.
If you don't have the skills to replace them... send them to some one like Rob Anthony for repair.
Just because the mobo is old... doesn't mean it's "destine" for the garbage.
It take skill to keep these machines running... don't ruin it by just tossing what you think is a lost cause.
Just saying; I'd rather keep mine running with original/repaired parts than by tossing the system in favor of a Nucore/Pinbox.
Thats why i said consult a professional if you need a mobo repaired. Rob is more than capable. For me, id cut off the bad cap and use my Pace desolderer. But i have the equipment...
Are you hoarding those mobos... Or offering them?
I really need to get my RFM functional... <sigh>
Honestly; the hold up right now is I can't find the damn monitor's Power connector so I can build a bench plug to enable me to do some testing of the monitor outside the machine/cabinet. (Tube swap; expecting to need convergence at a minimum)
I've ordered like 3 different molex style connectors; and none of them have the right "rounded square" keying. I'm toying with the idea of 3D printing a correct connector.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:Are you talking about the stock monitor? I had a friend with the stock WG monitor in theirs and I made a new connector to interface with the video amp board. Standard molex connector and pins nothing special.
Yes stock; but not the Video signal connector. The Power connector. As in 120VAC.
It appears that the connector is nolonger made - or I can't find the right manufacturer.
Quoted from maffewl:black tape film.
Friction tape? The same stuff used to mount lift channels on Backglasses?
look in the upper left corner of the secondary (solder) side of the board. He burnt a trace off... an fixed it with a wire jump.
Tonight I fired up my RFM monitor after swapping boards to the non-cracked CRT.
Fired right up. Did a little convergence adjustment and looks pretty good. I'm going to try and reassemble my RFM head tomorrow; but it's forecasted to rain here... so that my limit my ability to move games around to work on the RFM.
We'll see.
Quoted from hocuslocus:I would of preferred to stay with CRT, but I couldn't get it to work 100% with pinbox. the picture was always messed up. I even tried the arcade vga video card.
Please don't toss your CRT... if you decide to do so; please contact me and I'll come take it off your hands. ;D
Glad it went to a home.
For anyone reading this... Never, EVER, toss your CRT unless you know it's has a cracked tube.
These things are no longer being made... eventually, machines will die because no CRTs are left because no one is making tubes anymore.
Someone will take it. Guaranteed.
Quoted from wayout440:I learned that one the hard way too. I said "You've got to be kidding". It must have been easier to build that way. Replaced.them with a discreet wired wedge base socket.
Did the same on my STNG. I even put these:
http://Pinball.Click/B011NBMSTA
under the PF and tied the wedge socket leds to it (Stern Star Trek - did this, so not my original idea). The picture is wrong in the link. It's a 3 position terminal lug.
Yes, but I got them cheaper at PBL:
https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=299
While you are changing them out; you might as well replace the base too (shameless plug):
pinball-mods.com Pop Bumper Body
bumper body
Quoted from kdunbar:Are you bringing any to TPF?
Not planning on taking any product for sale at TPF.
TPF is a social thing for me; so, the only thing I do are:
My machines will be outfitted with my mods for people to interact with.
I will; of course, will hand deliver any product purchased to TPF as I've done in the past.
Define, not booting.
Is the powerswitch on the CPU set properly to allow a boot? I know; simple - but had to ask.
Did you check / follow the green/black/white main's power cable to make sure it is plugged into the IEC connector which plugs into the PSU on the CPU?
My assumption is that when Rob fixed your computer... it was the entire computer... including the Prism card.
If that is true - then I'd wager something shook loose during shipping back.
Have you tried removing / reseating the cards?
Have you asked Rob for advice?
Something looks off to me; Shouldn't the RED LEDs in the prism card light?
Quoted from billsfanmd:First is a replacement fan. Can someone post a link where to buy one? OR is you have one for sale.
Which one?
CPU, PSU, or other?
Robo,
I have a broken neck on my "now backup" CRT for this beast.
I'd love to buy a "known good" CRT from someone so I could tube swap and get the back up working.
Any interest in helping me source a donor tube?
Quoted from alexmogil:Star Wars: Episode I thread, or is this pretty much the de facto Pinball 2000 club thread?
I just think no one has created one.
I don't own SWEP1... so have no real interest.
Quoted from Puffdanny:Can I run an update without a computer?
I think it requires a null serial cable and an XP computer.
Otherwise; you'll need the update card which Borygard probably has.
Again, please don't trash the CRT if you go the LCD route.
Offer it locally ... or even here on Pinside so we can save the tube for future needs.
You could send an PM to Borygard to see if he works on Pin2K monitors... if so; ship him your monitor for repair.
Would be expensive (to ship); but would be done right if not broken during shipment.
However, I'm remembering he only works on Pin2k CPUs - not the monitors themselves.
Other than that; I can't offer any specific suggestions as I did my chassis swap here to correct for a broken CRT neck. Prior to that; I did my own re-cap and other minor repairs.
Quoted from tonylo909:Anyone want it, come by and get it!
Next time I'm in FL I will.
Quoted from TBatti:battery is by chance?
On the computer motherboard is the only one I know of
Quoted from TBatti:I read there is one on the motherboard and one on the prism card. What is the best way to access these??? I don't know how to get at them???
I've never worked on my RFM at all and I'm trying to understand where everything is and how to get at it.
I don't recall if there is one on the Prism Card.
Both are in the computer cabinet in the head above the monitor.
To get to the computer; remove the Backglass. Then the computer can be slid "out" while the back part of the computer case remains in the channel. From there you can remove the computer case's cover and then access the battery(ies).
Quoted from wayout440:Yes, sandwiched between the Prism PCI card and its daughterboard. Word of caution, be extremely gently when prying these cards apart! Seen many with the connectors ripped off.
I have never replaced mine only the coincell on the mobo.
Please tell me the Prism battery isn't NiCAD or Rechargeable... because I really don't want to feel like I have a time bomb waiting for me.
Edit:
"Lithium Battery BR2335 on the PRISM Sandwich Board. Not easy to swap, to only if you must. So far I am not sure, what problems exactly happen, when this battery gets empty. So far I have seen that they have still > 3,3 Volts! " -- http://www.pinball2000.de/troubleshooting.htm#BATTERY_PROBLEMS
so; whew... no time bomb.
That board is too clean... you had to have washed it or something. 
I think I recapped everything myself... but noticed something similar.
I think I recall removing a couple of bulged caps on mine.
Just be careful when putting that board back... the neck of the tube is not a handle... neither is the neck board. yes; I'm speaking form experience.
Quoted from PhillyArcade:he caps were original and none were leaking or bulging. I'm always super careful around those necks! They snap easy! That hiss will make you sick!
yeah.. 77 plays; wow. I'm jelly.
Mine was taken care of for the most part; I don't understand it's complete history; but much of mine's life was spent in a church here in TX.
The only real problem I've had with mine is some of the rear switches have grown some green slime which I think was related to some of the solder flux used during assembly at Williams.
Philly, do you have a CGA source that you can attach to the monitor?
IE so you can eliminate the rfm's Computer as the culprit?
I used Test Pattern Generator to verify my RFM monitor after I did a chassis swap. I know you proably don't need to spend another 89usd... but I figured I'd use mine to debug my Voyager monitor which is in a similar state.
I *finally* got around to replacing my CPU fan... I'm pretty sure it had the oem cpu fan on it... and had already cleaned and oiled the fan 8 or so years ago. It sorely needed to be replaced. I installed a 60mm Noctura fan on the 50mm cpu socket mainly to keep the noise to an absolute minimum. It also has the added benefit of attaching the cpu fan header on the Pin2k motherboard.
I did a quick write up on my blog:
http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/p2kCpuFan
where I've made the DXF file available under the "free" TAPR/NCL license. I've also put the Fan Adapter on Shapeways for those who don't have access to a laser cutter.
I found the serial cable update to be the easiest. It doesn't really require special hardware... I had a Null serial cable in my cable box.
That said; I understand why PUB cards are considered easier because you don't have to setup a WinXP box.
Quoted from bobwiley:Do you know if v 1.8 or 1.9 are available to update via null serial cable?
AFAIK; all Pin2k software can be updated via a null serial cable.
The sticking point most people have is they don't have a WinXP laptop they can carry to the machine. I beleive the tool has issues with Win Vista and later tools. I imagine a WinXP Virtual machine would work as well.
When I tried the ?1.6? update... I had a Dell WinXP laptop with real serial port. I ended going back to the previous update because there was something I didn't like about the new modes. I still have the XP laptop ... and now several VMs because my Laser cutter also requires WinXP 32bit for it's drivers. Ricky's site actually seems to have instructions:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/pin2000/notes/update.html
Quoted from PhillyArcade:Keeping the UV away from my artwork on my games is always a must.
I don't really want to rain on your parade... but White LEDs can actually be UV emitters.
*some* White LEDs work by producing UV light which is then converted to white by Phosphors in the LED... Just like it's done on CFL tubes.
I'm not sure most White LED vendors actually show the UV present in the spectrum; so it's difficult to prove that converting from CFL to WhiteLEDs is better or worse on the art.
Here's an article from a quick Google Search:
http://www.premierltg.com/do-led-lights-produce-uv-led-tanning-beds/
Quoted from Joe_Blasi:and what is bad about less ram?? it's not like that type is hard to find.
Agreed; however, the POST is quite a bit longer with 8MB.
Quoted from BobLangelius:any chance we could get a real knocker while your in there, doctor?
I like this idea... Like it a lot.
I did a post about the RFM fan in my blog:
http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?p=750
applejuice
how far along are you w/ regards to the Shaker Kits / wiring harnesses?
I sent a PM to you on 1/28 (I'll reply again) to put me on the list; but never heard from you.
With V2.1 coming soon... I'd like to start planning.
Great, I understand about those projects. I have at least 4 in the pipeline myself. That doesn't include the damn IncomeTax I'm still working on. Luckily; that'll be done by tomorrow at midnight.
yeah... hum... wtf
Double sticky tape; really? might as well have thermal epoxied the heatsink down.
hard to see in that picture - does the heatsink even have both the tab hooks?
Is the socket on the mobo broken? IE does it have both heatsink tabs?
I'd be more than a little worried that there was a reason for the stupid-hack.
Applejuice,
Please contact me via PM. I have a contact which can have these made cheaply.
I'm happy to help out if you'd like.
I don't think it's been suggested; But, I am *not* trying to take business from @Applejuice... my goal is simply to support him in his endeavor as I think the work he's doing for RFM is very awesome. Regardless of what he decides; I'll be buying the knocker loom from him to support his work on the game software. It's well deserved.
I have some experience making wiring harnesses for projects like my Laser mods for Stern Star Trek.. so I'm happy to help him find a source if it helps him avoid crimping these darn things by hand.
The lamp test feature is an opamp design on the hardware of the board on the bottom of the cabinet.
I'd be surprised if applejuice could do anything more than disable it it in software.
Another option might be to duplicate the lamptest grid and allow the owner to disable lamp test for specific lamps that have LEDs. IE for those that don't have 100% LED conversions.
Quoted from Ricochet:they really did innovate a ton with pinball 2000... yet somehow... they arrived at...
PVC pipe
What's wrong with PVC? Cheap; easy to source. Easy to replace. 
Quoted from applejuice:Also, on the lamp test front with LED usage. If anyone wants to pm me for an ee tech discussion on the operation of the lamp RC circuit charge and decay test timing
applejuice Why take it to PM?
I think it should be a group conversations. Why not start a new thread in the appropriate forum here on Pinside?
I'd participate especially if you can post the current timings as you understand them.
Hell; I might even be convinced to pull out my oscilloscope.
I agree regard the crap microswitches in RFM.
I've had to replace about 3-4 of the p.o.s… on my game; they seem to be worse in the upper PF. In nearly every case; I can pull them and see some green ooze coming out of them. I'm not sure what that ooze is... but I'm guessing it may be left over flux from the manufacturing line which has "grown" into the actual switch body gunking up the internal mechs.
Last time I ended up buying the modern DB3 microswitches from digikey and moving the rollover wire to the body.
applejuice
Since we are talking about a clock...
Can we get a NTP setting to specify an NTP server so the machine can autosync to the date/time of a server?
Quoted from Sonic:you won't burn a flipper coil....since this isn't a Stern
More importantly... make it an option to enable and leave it disabled by default.
shotout to applejuice for an awesome 2.1 update.
I easily upgraded from 1.5 to 2.1 with a homemade null modem cable and my old XP laptop.
No issues.
Quoted from Sonic:You have it striking the metal housing? I was going to ask where folks were installing theirs.....
Yes of the AC box... I was going to make a metal strike plate and mount it somewhere else; but @applejuice's harness was to short and I didn't plan ahead with my own wiring by making mine longer.
If your going to install an existing knocker with a diode like mine; remember the banded side of the diode goes to brown (+50V) and the unbanded goes to blue (switched grounded). It'd be smart to remove the diode; but I didn't. I may live to regret it.
Quoted from Ricochet:It looks as if the knocker and shaker are on Drive Bank C (DRV 18 and DRV 19)... those do not have diodes on them.
The knocker assembly suggested by applejuice does appear to have the diode on it... so this is more evidence you may need the diode.
I'm about 90% sure my tilt is on the lhs (player's prospective) as well.
In fact; I'm positive now that I think about it. Mine was not "behind" the coil power disable switch but on the same side as the ac box.
Quoted from BENETNATH:I wonder which fuse can disable the door button ??
I'm guessing because the +50V is out; the door thinks it's closed; disabling the buttons via software.
Quoted from johnstewart:. Next thing I'm thinking is maybe the capacitors on the motherboard?
That's my first guess.
On my Mobo; the caps started bulging. Unless you have the equipment to replace these easily (a good vacuum desolderer); you'll want to send this out to Borygard for repair if they are indeed bulging.
Otherwise; IIRC - the original PSU was a Deer AT powersupply. I'm pretty sure I replaced mine as soon as I found it.
Quoted from johnstewart:ricochet and zitt do you know the specs on the capacitors to replace?
I do not. Just look at the Caps in your board and replace if they are bulging or have evidence of liquid escaping.
Quoted from johnstewart:Also, what the heck is "c" here? I thought capacitors had a voltage (v) and a capacitance (uf); what the heck is c?
And, I think I can replace it with a higher voltage capable one, I'm good. In other words, a 10v capacitor can replace a 6.3v one (but not vice-versa, obviously)?
Can you recommend a place to buy? I"m comfortable enough with desoldering/replacing myself.
This is a multi-layer Motherboard - maybe 6 or more layers. Simple desoldering you've been use-to on pinball boards won't cut the mustard on this. IE it's hard to desolder all those layers without damaging inner layers... or applying enough heat to melt the solder on the massive power planes these caps are on.
Seriously; unless you've worked on 4+ layer boards with some high end thru hole desoldering equipment - just don't. Consult a professional.
If you're still serious about ruining your board yourself; capacitance (uF) can generally be replaced with slightly larger value caps without issue. IE only have 1200uf but the original is 1000uf.
Voltage rating of the cap (VDC) is simular. You should try to match voltages in general. This measurement is "working voltage". Running a 50V electro in place of a 6.3VDC may lead to issues, IIRC. Never use a lower rated voltage cap in place of a higher. Sparks will fly.
Temperature ratings (degrees C) are ratings for the temperature profile of a given device. I usually go with higher temperature for motherboard caps. IE I will replace 80C caps with 105C as long as they are rated better. IF you are really curious:
Wikipediahas a good description of lifetime effects and failure modes. See Arrhenius rule.
Get some coin reject art on that coin buttons - Stat:
http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?p=88
CoinRejectSTRFM-300x211 (resized).jpgIf you do decide to go LCD; please don't trash the CRT. Donate it to someone here who can keep it for parts/repair. CRTs are no longer being made; and replacement tubes are hard to find. It'd be a sad day if the CRT ended up in China/Philippines ewaste craters.
Quoted from dashv:Love it! Now I want one for my RFM.
Dash... You're becoming addicted to Pinside. Does your wife need to stage an intervention?
But seriously; welcome to the rollercoaster of Pinside.
Have you installed applejuice 's RFM update yet?
Quoted from dashv:I swear to God you guys are gonna bankrupt me.
Then don't go look at the mods I did for my STNG.
Quoted from dashv:Don’t you dare provide a link!
Ok. I won't
.
Quoted from dashv:I’m getting the metal decals. But I may not use all of them. The other stuff I’m not sure about.
IT's ok... let you're pocket book recover. Don't piss off the wife.
Quoted from dashv:Folks, I need to clean my playfield and replace the rubbers on my RFM. And would like to have some spare bulbs.
Is this kit a good deal?
I’d rather have some color on the playfield but not sure what would go well.
ebay.com link
No. Don't do that kid.
Go to
titanPinball.comand use their database to get sizes and build your own. You'll be happier; as many times, these kits are on the shelf so long they already dried out.
Quoted from Zitt:Don't do that kid.
*kit
not kid. I was like WTF when I re-read that. :LOL:
More likely 5 plus 2 zeros... IE 500 ohms.
Look at the schematics to confirm.
To test a pot for opens; you should see ?500 ohms? across the two outside pins. (DVM in resistance mode)
The wiper would measure a percent of that value.
Wipers go bad regularly on these cheap pots. Heat could make it worse.
Also it looks like you ?may? have soldered on the top part of the pot instead of the pin side (bottom of board); if you did - it's possible you may have contaminated the wiper ring on the top side of the pot with solder flux.
Quoted from msj2222:any idea where to source these pots?
I don't. Matching pots is hard to do unless you have the original part number.
The problem is everyone seems to make the pots a little different... and no standard "packages" really exist.
If you knew who the original manufacturer was; you might be able to cross to it.
Sadly; the only sure fire way to find the right pot is to measure critical dems and then consult a parametric search like on Digikey.com. And even then; you wouldn't know for sure until you had the replacement in hand to verify.
That said; you might be able to shot-gun buy something and then "make" it work.
Quoted from dashv:Why have one... when you can have two for twice the price...
'Cause your CrayCray!
Quoted from jgecmd:Seems to be a defective fan. I put a 9v battery to the old fan, it fired right up. No response when testing the new fan. Oh well. Thanks for the help!
Check the pinout.
The red should to positive and black to negative. Yellow is Tach and is unconnected.
I've run across a couple of fans … especially second hand which is wired incorrectly.
https://forum.level1techs.com/t/need-help-wiring-some-fans/101081/2
has a good description what it should look like... that said I have NOT confirmed on my RFM that mine is wired that way. Given its a standard mobo; it should be wired this way.
A lot cheaper on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/s
and Pinside gets a cut from the link above. I also use the molex 63811-1000 for nearly every crimped connector on the pinball machine.
Quoted from TicTacSeth:anyone else running v0.1
Yeah... umm. no. Thankfully; I was running 1.5 prior to applejuice 's awesome update. I actually need to DL and install his Halloween update.
Quoted from applejuice:A question to RFM owners. Any more 'party mode' flipper options that people would like to see?
IDK if you're still taking requests... nor how "easy" it'd be...
But how about a two person "team" contest?
Where one person operates the left … and the other operates the right. at the same time. up to 4 "teams". Keep a high score table for "Team play". That could be one fun arse party game IMHO.
Quoted from daveyvandy:Yes they were missing! When I finally figured that out I was so happy to finally track down the issue.
ZOMG; I was right?!
Theehehhehhehe
Glad you got a lead on the problem.
There is always one customer that comes in after a group buy has been ordered.
If you can't find one domestically; send me a PM. I don't have a "next group buy" date; so it may be mid year before we have enough interest to do another
group buy.
I think family mode disables some of the off colour remarks in mars kneeds women (boob jokes) and maybe the Bill Clinton impersonator in the first scene.
LEDs were not really widespread use in 2000. Red/Green/Yellow were common; but blue and white came shortly after.
At that time; no one had any idea that RGB or White LEDs would become common. At that time; they had no idea "we" would put LED replacement bulbs in these machines.
I don't blame Pin2k for not advance designing "LED compatability". It's actually a pretty smart design detecting blown bulbs - tbh.
Quoted from pinballfan2000:Where do I find release notes for 1.9 version?
I only see notes for 2.0 onwards versions
Just in case you missed this key point.
applejuice is a hobbyist who has coded an awesome - unofficial - upgrade to RFM. I think his first release was 2.0. Anything prior to that was owned and "abandoned" by Williams back when they stopped making pinball machines in favor of/for Slut machines.
Applejuice has done a great service for us RFM owners... please donate and remember he's one guy with limit resources. HE should be treated like the gift he is for this hobby/machine.
Quoted from j_m_:the buyer of my machine has purchased all of the parts from me that he wanted but I still have over $2,000 worth of NOS parts available.
google docs link:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pSPuHCN1dEF4UThhP-hq-pfQmexcyIlObRNVfiA2iS4/edit?usp=sharing
Pm sending
Quoted from GTO:Is it the prism card battery?
yeap. Good luck with that.
Doesn't Windex have ammonia in it which can react badly with the metallic coating on Pin2k glass?
I use old Windex Advanced... which afaik was discontinued.
Quoted from MrMikeman:I’m on 1.5. I may have all my computer parts by the weekend. Right now the ArcadeVGA is scheduled to arrive Monday but I think it’ll be faster.
Why change the hardware?
Seriously... if it' an't broke... don't fix it.
Quoted from mattosborn:Update over serial takes just a few minutes, and you don't even have to crack open the computer case (like you would with the PUB card).
Exactly. That's what I did... Serial over usb.
Or wait for applejuice 's new updating software and do it for a "donation".
Quoted from robotronjohn:Make sure you have a USB to NULL serial cable. I bought 2 different ones off Amazon because the first one purchased was not a NULL crossover cable.
The null modem is exterior.
Just wire the cable properly or get a null modem cable. It's only 3 lines. RX->TX, TX->RX, GND-GND
Or buy a null modem "adapter" when you buy the usb to serial converter.
Drunk mode should not be in effect for multiball.
Either end it or "stop it" until multiball is complete and resume.
applejuice ... if you're looking for requests.
Can you improve the lan connectivity of RFM?
Specifically; I'm looking for a modernized DHCP client ... and a "web api" service.
I'd like to assign a "Static" IP to the RFM; and have a service connect to the RFM to get critical player data... such as last player(s) score. HSTDs. High score tables; etc.
Quoted from Bohm:Randomly, when I turn it on, the sound will be either super high or all the way down. You can turn it down using the volume buttons, but if there is no sound you have to restart the machine because there is no turning it up. Previous owner told me it started happening after he added more RAM
That doesn't sound like a RAM problem.
That sounds like there is an issue with the audio amp in the system. That said; I don't have any specific experience with the audio section on this machine.
The theory of an Audio Amp issue is further hinted at by "blown speakers".
I'd say it's time to crack open the manual(s) and start troubleshooting the Audio sub-section.
https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_2000_Repair#Sound_problems
but not much there.
Quoted from mark532011:custom “gotta repair it or else” machine?
custom. It's a baby AT but based upon AMD GFX processor.
A standard PC is doable; but only in NuCore config.
Quoted from Torre:Isn’t there a brightness and contrast controls somewhere? I cannot find them.
Yes; the brightness controls are on the back of the monitor and the contrast is one of the pots in the front behind the backglass.
Quoted from mattosborn:Wells-Gardner D9400 digital-control monitor. Press the OSD button.
Wow. Had no clue that even existed. Neat.
Quoted from mark532011:thanks! that fixed it. One new problem popped up, the fan on the cpu heatsink is moving slow and making a lot of noise, it looks like the bearings are bad. Are there replacements available? Its a tiny size, much smaller than modern fans.
By all means go with applejuice 's replacement if he has a good price.
I went with a 50 to 60mm adapter plate on my machine.
Quoted from DrWaz:Where are there batteries on this game? Are the AA? I just got a Revenge not that long ago and I thought I looked for batteries but if I missed them please let me know.
Two sets of batteries IIRC.
One on the motherboard (coin cell).
The other is on the prism card ... I heard it was coin cell.
Quoted from shirkle:Just the tube (the screen itself) is scrap. All other parts are still good. The chassis, flyback, yoke, the frame...all still good. I’d love to have that because I have two brand new spare tubes!
I briefly thought about reporting your post as abusive... but then remembered that is only abusive to me.
Congrats you lucky bastage.
Dirty Vertical hold or size pot?
If not; I'm be concerned about high voltage on that monitor. When was the last time that monitor was capped?
Hopefully not a duckscan.
I wouldn't play the game until you figure out the answers to these questions - else you risk frying the high voltage flyback in the monitor.
The flyback is a transformer device that takes lower voltages and "amplifies" to a high voltage used in the CRT tube to force electrons to the front grid. I don't know what the voltage on the low side is... probably 100 volts or so... and the CRT tube needs like 15000-25000 Volts (no not a typo); to generate the beam that hits the inside phosphor to generate the RGB colors of the monitor.
The flyback is an AC device; but the CRT tube need DC ... so there are diodes and capacitors to convert the AC to DC.
The flyback is unobtanium just like the CRT. If either is damaged; the monitor is landfill.
Caps dry out with Age and Temperature and are usually rated for as low as 5000 hours. The high voltage and high temperature in the monitor chassis leads to pre-mature aging of those caps.
If the Caps short; they can take the flyback with it.
The video you posted looks very much like a fluctuating high voltage rail... which probably means you have bad caps "loading" that rail... which means you're flyback is seriously at risk.
Given you don't know that the monitor and it's high voltage caps have been replaced... you're asking for disappointment when you have to toss that monitor.
One of the first things I did a decade ago when I got my RFM is recap the monitor so "in theory" - mine is good for another 10-15 years. Yours is already past it's shelf date if it hasn't been recapped.
Quoted from robotron911:Respectfully, flybacks are not unobtanium.
Put up a link to the flyback transformers used in Duckscan and the Well garner monitor chassis.
If those links point to an actual manufacture that doesn't do it out of his garage; then I will eat my words.
If they aren't available in high volume outlets; then you just proved my point.
Other than that; I do agree "in general terms" with your statements.
That said CRT screens are on life support; and they are on Do Not Resuscitate orders. If you disagree; well... then you aren't paying attention.
Quoted from applejuice:When enabled it reverses the flippers for the duration of the happy hour mode.
I having installed a later version yet...
Does happy hour start during that mode... or do you have to hit a specific number of shots/drinks?
@sniik,
stop being a trolling leach.
Pay the man for his work. If you can't afford his reasonable prices... then you need to go back to 1.7-stock.
Oh; you claim you donated - fine. Then don't use his 6ball update. You can't blame the man not supporting you reverse engineering his addition.
To be clear; I did buy his knocker / shaker upgrade when it came out. I haven't bought his 6ball upgrade... but I also haven't upgraded to the latest software. I support applejuice with purchases on his site... when I get around to it; I'll be purchasing his 6ball upgrade... not because I can't design replacement... but because it's the right thing to do.
I'd check for obvious issues first... Bad psus... Deer psus are notorious and were used in rfm cases.
Check for bulging electro caps on mono
Is it the CPU bad or monitor?
If not bueno, then nucore
Quoted from PinPilot:My VGA tube-style monitor says "Samsung" on it - has it been replaced? Never knew Samsung made tube TVs. Still nice and crisp, but looking forward to increased brightness and contrast from the VGA amplifier mod.
Samsung made tube CRTs... Infact I think my CRT is a samsung.
That said; the driver boards are probably NOT samsung. Either wells garner or Duckscan. If the latter; I'm sorry... but in the same boat.
Quoted from waldo34:Congrats, concerning Pinstadium pretty sure it would make the monitor hard to see.
This guy get it. Lighting on Pin2k = bad idea.
applejuice 's code is the bomb... IE read good stuff.
I haven't updated in several revisions... I need to do that one of these days.
Quoted from OutlawTorn304:Is there anything I need to check right out of the gate?
Monitor type.
If DuckScan; Do Cap Kit stat.
Probably good idea to do it anyway.
Quoted from snakesnsparklers:Borygard
Correct. The only answer. Do not attempt to repair yourself if you haven't the skills/equipment
Same as normal pin except the CPU board is basically a PC which is not really user serviceable. The monitor is also best left to experts
Sorry to hear that; I don't have a spare for myself - much less anyone else.
Maybe someone has a left over from a pinbox conversion.
Quoted from SpaceWar:Anyone out there have a spare 3D lenticular Revenge From Mars translight I could buy from you? They were produced by Planetary Pinball.
They were actually produced by Pinball-Dreams and
mayuh in the following thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-translites-to-come-mm-available-end-of-jan/page/7#post-2968606
That said; Rick apparently became impossible to work with and they must have shutdown work on them.
You might try contact them direct from their website:
https://www.pinball-dreams.com/flipper-pinball-flipperautomaten-modding-shop/3d-translites/3d-translite-rfm-detail.html
I wanted to notify ya'll of immediate availability of Chrome RFM (AFM?) Saucers here in North America. I have limited quantities available for immediate shipment; it's unclear at this time if there is enough interested to continue to stock them.
Chrome RFM saucers
These are not metal parts; but are plastics saucers chromed in whatever method is used to create "chromed plastic".
They are available as just the saucer or with a new twist flasher dome. I'm guessing most would just want to use the existing dome they have; but if you want new; that is an option as well.
These are imports from Pinball.Center.
http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/small-saucer-p-78.html from 23.24
Quoted from softail:but I've found out other connectors ( see pic)
What are they for ?
Those look like the AC connectors for the monitor and PC powersupply.
IF correct; they should run into the "backbox" and connect up to the AC power harness in the "backbox".
The plastic IDCs are good for maybe one connector. I think that's what PBL sells.
You need a metal one.
Quoted from dashv:1) My right flipper will twitch sometimes without me touching the flipper button. Is that normal? Is it some feedback feature I am activating from time to time?
No. Mine doesn't do it.
Quoted from dashv:2) During Martian attack my right Martian will jump up and down a few times then stop. I am going to check the cabling and solenoid and try swapping it with another one. Anything else I should check?
Check for switches activating during switch test while banging on the PF.
I'm guessing you have a sensitive switch in that assembly.
Quoted from dashv:4) I get the error “Check Switch 78 left loop high”. But the switch works if I activate it with the glass off. :-/
About 90% you have the dreaded green goo infecting that switch.
I don't know what it is... assuming it's flux...
but you need to replace that switch.
Quoted from applejuice:screwdriver in finger.....
Lol
So true
Quoted from Reznnate:I've replaced both batteries twice. I replaced the driver board.
I've been assuming the problem lies somewhere in the coindoor connectors, harness, etc. but when I unplug coin door, it doesn't change slam-tilt message, etc.Has anyone else seen this before?
This still screams battery issues.
When you pulled the batteries for the second time; did you measure the battery voltages?
I wonder if you have a defective motherboard or prism card which is draining the battery.
I'm not aware of any reason a "pinball" defect would cause the settings to go ape sh1t like that.
Quoted from Zitt:I wanted to notify ya'll of immediate availability of Chrome RFM (AFM?) Saucers here in North America. I have limited quantities available for immediate shipment; it's unclear at this time if there is enough interested to continue to stock them.
[quoted image]
These are not metal parts; but are plastics saucers chromed in whatever method is used to create "chromed plastic".
They are available as just the saucer or with a new twist flasher dome. I'm guessing most would just want to use the existing dome they have; but if you want new; that is an option as well.
These are imports from Pinball.Center.
http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/small-saucer-p-78.html from 23.24
Is there any interest in continued stock of these Chrome Saucers?
I'll be doing another group buy mid-Sept; but it's unclear if I should order anymore of these.
Pretty sure I have a card floating around.
I actually may have considered creating a "script" which would publish the highscore tables to a web server at one point.
That said; I didn't have source for the RFM OS system... so I didn't really want to try an tackle / workaround the system.
I've rarely hear of PSU fan replacement; although it shouldn't be too hard.
I have replaced the CPU fan tho:
http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?p=750
Quoted from Zitt:Is there any interest in continued stock of these Chrome Saucers?
I'll be doing another group buy mid-Sept; but it's unclear if I should order anymore of these.
I ordered another batch from Pinball.Center... They along with a few Large Saucers are now in stock:
http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/small-saucer-p-78.html
That said Large saucers are for AFM - NOT RFM.
Quoted from kcirrick:was told that that might be a good thing considering how special this machine is and that I might want to keep it as close to original as possible.
This kind of bs kinda pisses me off.
I get it; it's a prototype... but it's YOUR GAME.
I personally would feel 100% conformable modifying your game... as long as the modifications are reversible and it makes the game better for YOU.
It does not sound like any of the "changes" you did to the machine warranted the "horror" that people seemed to voice about the changes.
A game you will play because you made improvements is better than a prototype paper weight that just collects dust.
Quoted from mdeslaur:Sure, but if he wants it to preserve its value, he can't do anything he wants to it. If he doesn't care about how much it's worth, he can paint it black and set fire to it if he wants.
Again, This is between him and his future buyer.
Honestly; we have no business pressuring him either way.
I personally find it very disrespectful for anyone to be telling him what to do with his game.
Sorry; I really shouldn't have a dog in this race.
I just hate that people get "suggested" to do something they weren't doing and change behaviors when it wasn't a problem to begin with. Modding a machine without changing it irreversibly isn't a Sin at all... and shouldn't be suggested as such.
Now back to the regularly scheduled program... applejuice what's next ;D
Quoted from applejuice:we are reaching the limit of space though on original hardware now. If only the prism card had 8mb of flash instead of 4!
Sounds like a kit upgrade.
I personally would not convert to nucore... I would do an eprom rework/swap tho to get 8MB if it gave applejuice more cash (donation/kit purchace) and the freedom to expand the game.
I'd also be willing to put some effort in to helping him design a kit if he needed it.
Different topic:
Does anyone have any installed photos of the chrome small saucers on their RFM? Pinkitten posted some photos of the small chrome installed on an Attack From Mars remake and I'd love to get some similar photos for RFM.
Looks very bright; but it's probably just auto-color balance of your camera.
If it looked that bright in real-life; I'd be concerned about seeing the monitor's reflection.
Quoted from erikie:I just replaced my flash rom to have double the size. Will try to flash it later this week with the normal update to see if it works. This should be a drop in replacement chip.
Whooo... Ahh... Keep us posted.
I assume that is a Prizm card ... not the motherboard flash.
Quoted from hAbO:Do they still make the 3D translite anymore?
Do a pinside search and find their thread.
Bump the thread or contact them on their website.
Quoted from megadeth2600:I contacted them a couple of weeks ago. They are no longer making them.
And this is why Rick @ PPS is not an asset to our community.
Quoted from hAbO:Maybe they didnt sell well.
Oh. they sold well. very well based upon conversations.
The original thread has some late discussions about Rick leaving them with a bunch of unfinished projects because he stopped "approving" the work.
you need to somehow find the schematics for the monitor. Sounds like it may be a challenge as I haven't heard of it.
That said; Smoke probably means bad diode or transistor in the high voltage section given your description of the events leading up to the smoke.
Carefully pull the monitor out of the cabinet; you aren't gonna be able to fix this in the machine.
Take my advice now... BE VERY CAREFULL when removing the monitor... might be a good idea to have a friend help.
I necked my CRT because I wasn't paying attention to "not a handle" or something when removing mine.
(necked as in broke the glass tube at the connector)
I ended up having to do a tube swap; and it's still not in perfect condition.
Once you have the monitor on the "bench"; you might be able to locate the burnt component(s) by visual inspection.
Quoted from Grangeomatic:If I’m not mistaken, in order to replace the skirts, you pretty much have to disassemble the entire pop bumper because you need to remove the light socket to get the main body off so you can get to the skirt.
Correct. you have to basically disassemble everything.
I don't think you have to desolder the coil; but you def have to desolder the lamp socket and remove it to get the top pop bumper base off.
If you are doing it anyway; it be a good idea to replace everything.
http://Pinball-Mods.com/url/PopBumperCFG
Quoted from Blamer:It's getting annoying, specially during 'Mars Kneads Women' after every video sequence.
Normal Operation.
You always have to hit double flippers to release the ball. It's programed that way in purpose
I totally would love to see an OLED on this game... but I think they have to become more common place and cheaper.
Quoted from ViperTim:Well that might be true, but nothing that I’m interested in.
I'm trying to figure out if you're deliberately "lost" or just being obtuse.
applejuice has graciously provided improved code for the RFM pinball machine - for free @ https://www.mypinballs.com/ ...
The modified code wither unofficial or not is worth the installation. If you aren't putting it on your game for some reason; then well... that's your choice. Code improvement are better than any mod you may or may not put on this game.
no affiliation:
https://abductionlamp.com
This indeed appears to be a pre-order with at this point no "official delivery" date.
Ill let it sit for a while; but if this gets close to the paypal time limit with no update; I'm going to cancel.
Quoted from Zitt:no affiliation:
https://abductionlamp.com.
Got a shipping notice today, so these are finally shipping.
Quoted from TicTacSeth:the clear beam part doesn’t fasten down, just rests up top.
I got mine in but it'll be some time before I get to my project.
How do you mean? The clear "glass" tractor beam doesn't secure to anything on the lamp?
Quoted from Flippermatt:Has anyone split the Prism cards ever ? Any special approach doing this, looks delicate ? Is the Prism battery a show stopper if not supplying the 3v ?
I'm sure there is a special tool for splitting the prism card... I'm also pretty sure it has been discussed here in this thread.
I'm also pretty sure a low /dead battery wouldn't kill the motherboard from booting. At worst it would lead to a checksum error and halt the boot prior to handing off to the prism card roms.
I'm also pretty sure somewhere there is a discussion on how to troubleshoot the PC on a bench with a VGA monitor.
That'd be my first stop to determine if the motherboard is at least booting the bios and hanging for an error message.
That looks like the bios boot screen which can't sync to the cga monitor
Check the prism card to ensure it's fully seated. Else check for dead battery on cpu board.
Possibly, but that a missing ferrite wouldn't cause your display issues.
Hooke the pc up to a vga monitor and see what the screen says
Quoted from ryandimx:Now that I'm hyper focused on things, the ps fan sounds really loud. Should I order a backup?
Tooting own horn:
http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?p=750
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:Are most just replacing the small fan that is in place? Or doing as above?
I've seen it done by just replacing the fan, adapting the fan
http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?p=750
Or replacing the heatsink and fan.
The latter is becoming more difficult due to the motherboard/socket age
I don't think there is any ideal situation
Quoted from themotherbrain:I picked these chrome saucers up recently too.
A lot of people (including me) put a 3rd saucer above the stroke of luck hole on top of the flasher.
Its amazing how easily Terry jumps on the bandwagon. Thanks Terry!
Sigh
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-hillary-come-here-you-gotta-see-this/page/95#post-6360040
For the record; I was on the market first (10 months ago)... Terry just like to copy ideas he sees on the market.
http://pinball-mods.com/url/RFMSaucer
I used to do regular pinball.center orders... but as of late due to Russia - I can't get regular shipments from Germany.
I have had a lot of success using their notify by email feature as Pinball.Center does do a good job of restocking items regularly.
Quoted from TheClownpuncher:Really!?! WTF is with that? Wonder if they'll ship to an APO/FPO
Really.
Rumor has it Mr personality tried to extort fees from the owner
Quoted from wamonkey:Pinball Life has chrome saucers with a green lens same price as pinball centre
I carried them before pinball life
Quoted from wamonkey:Pinball Center and there at best crap customer service
Oh; I have little doubt.
They've treated me fairly; but I set clear expectations in my group buys:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinballcenter-parts-needed
The truth is that I posted about the Chromed Saucers here and in the AFM thread long before PBL started carrying them. It felt like someone saw an opportunity and started stocking them. So now; I'm sitting here wondering when the other shoe is going to fall regarding other products I carry and/or manufacture myself. And trust me; imitation is not a form of flattery.
Quoted from AstonEnthusiast:Hey all - picked up a NIB Revenge from Mars today and have yet to unpack it until it's moved into the game room (both the body and head). I couldn't find much info on unpacking a 23 year old game, but what should I look for prior to considering powering up and playing the game?
Examine the motherboard for leaking / bulging caps. If either are seen; DO NOT power it on unless you want to find a replacement motherboard and CPU.
I'd be very concerned about the PSU in the AT chassis. If it's a DEER PSU; even more so. Same problem; leaking caps which you cannot see. DEER PSU are just horrible for all reasons. I wouldn't power up if it has one without going thru a full LOAD PSU checkout (beyond the capability of most people).
May want to source and replace the PSU before powering up.
Monitor; Leaking caps. Very hard to spot without a very careful examination of the monitor outside the game.
Dead coin cell batteries. Probably didn't leak. but probably dead. One on the Mobo. One on The Prism card. If either died; then you may need a vga monitor to re-setup CMOS settings for proper operation (garbled display without booting into game - hangs in bios screen w/ error).
Finally; verify the CPU fan is working 100% before leaving it running or playing a game. Fan should not make any whining or grinding noises. Only noise from moving air.
Daymn... You shoulda come to Frisco for Texas pinball festival.. we woulda bought you a beer or three.
Have fun. Enjoy.
Applejuice sells an updater software as an "upgrade" for modern PCs.
Me personally; I used an old WinXP laptop I had with a serial port and did the transfer using the Pin2k software.
Quoted from Matt08:You can push the cables down with a small screw driver it works fine.
Bad advice. Use the proper punch down tool. While a screwdriver works in a pinch, the proper tool is the correct way to go
Quoted from Irishbastard:I personally refuse to pay that for something that should be a few bucks, and I'll use once.
Except for an IDC punch down tool which is used EVERYWHERE on most modern machines... using it once seems unlikely.
Unless your the type of person who replaces IDC connectors with crimp-on connectors. No judgement; I do it.
Quoted from Jeff1960:I'm not sure which one it's supposed to be ? I guess it's interchangeable.
I thought the "3d" switches were "standard" on RFM.
Marco's "Product Compatibility" tab seems to agree with that statement.
Pinball.Center seems to carry the non-3D version:
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts/playfield-parts/targets/target-replacements/6100/target-red-rectangular-extra-wide?c=0
but they will NOT SHIP to usa. I can include it in my next personal order in a few weeks - contact me via PM if desired.
Didn't Nucore get released as "Free" a couple of years back?
Did something break; or did they do a "not really" reproducible release?
Computer controlled gi is likely Pulse Width Modulation. PWM. Pretty common on most modern pins and that's what ocdgi does for older games
Check to make sure everything is secured in the cpu case. It cards aren't loose... Motherboard isn't shorting somewhere.
I don't see anything obvious. Unless you manage to "desocket" the cpu slightly when you were replacing the fan.
My take (if it were me) would be to pull the CPU case from the game; set it on a bench. Power it up with a power cable and a VGA monitor. Then gently bang around to see if you see a reset. If you can't reproduce on the "Bench"; it's maybe a cable issue in the game.
If it does reproduce on the bench; I'd try "tapping" the cards and connectors with an insulated screwdriver handle to see if you can isolate to a card/area.
I assume you mean mount the prism card in a different slot?
because age vs weight in the original ISA slot may be the reason the game resets?
Not a bad hypothesis and easy to test.
applejuice ...
Any chance of seeing NTP client options in a future update? You know; to keep the date/time synced up.
I'd also like to see a "web server" which would display the high score table(s) via a post/get command. No; not scorbit... but something free but in a similar vein.
Quoted from applejuice:Scorebit is the way here and is being worked on. I recently got one of my other games hooked up to the platform without the need for additional hardware so all web services. If you recall I did run a web based tournament server with high score list access previously (2008 ish) so scorebit integration will build upon this legacy
I'm not paying their fees for a service I'd rarely use. I suspect that is one of the reasons JJP dropped support for them moving forward. hence the term; scorebit-like.
But it's your project; I'm sure someone will use it.
I have a duckscan and used applejuice 's video amplifier. No issues.
It looks to me that you need to adjust the contrast and maybe brightness after putting the amplifier in place.
I had to do this with mine.
Examine every solder connections everywhere in that monitor. This screams cold solder joint.
If youre 100% sure the monitor worked without the video amp, remove it and re-verify.
Unless there is a mfg defect with the video amp... I cant explain the behavior. The amp shouldn't cause the problem you're indicating by itself
That tracks. So excited to get that mod installed that we don't take precautions to ensure it's reversible. Good Luck.
I'm pretty sure that's why I went with the applejuice amp... simple; reversible and I got to support his RFM work.
It's there. Saw it today.
Click on the boards icon at the top of the page and then scroll to the mid point.
He calls it a sync separator or something
Maybe applejuice will chime in. My understanding is these are the same products.
Check the obvious things.
Running; forcefull Cpu Fan. Clean CPU heatsink.
Running powersupply fan. Clean PSU fan.
Bulging motherboard caps.
Quoted from GILV:By the way, where can we get a cap kit for the motherboard?
I'd like to buy one to recap mine?
IDK, honestly. I tend to look at schematics and actual device (for pin/pitch spacing) and generate a list. Then take that list to digikey; and buy a bunch of 105C caps. If a cap kit exists... I find they tend to be made from cheap 85C caps... not the high quality 105C caps you should use on motherboard VRMs.
Further; Unless you have a really good rework station and the skills to use it. I'd delegate the motherboard work. Suggest Borygard . The reason why is that motherboard have VERY large copper pours for Voltage / ground rails. They are difficult to heat up properly; leading to poor solder removal. When the caps are pulled; they can and may pull the vias out with them. That's a very bad thing on a board with more than two layers. Motherboard have 4+ probably 6+ layers... so bad.
IF you are going to do this (again; strongly discouraged) - Cut the caps off the board; and use a heated solder iron to pull the leads out of the holes. Then clean the hole out with a desoldering iron. Again; outsource this because these motherboards are a finite resource.
Quoted from Zee:Their code was subsequently stolen and renamed "pinbox" by some SOB. That pretty much killed the project and we lost a great resource in the hobby. You can't exactly ask Big Guys Pinball to help troubleshoot your machine.
Point of fact. That SOB also indicated that Nucore themselves stole LINUX opensource code... closed it off... and offered behind a paywall without also offering the source code as required by the license agreement. These "facts" are present in teh court documents between the SOB and Nucore.
So no; Big Guys Pinball did us no favors... and only released what they had at the end to satisfy the Free Software Foundation's lawyers. Don't give them ANY credit for stealing other peoples work. Pot calling kettle black.
I want someone to design a proper aspect ratio OLED screen... then maybe; just maybe I'd consider upgrading from the CRT.
Many youtube influencers recommend Deoxit for retro computers.
https://adriansbasement.com/deoxit-d5/
Quoted from bobwiley:wish there was a screen saver feature!
applejuice ... make it happen.
I'd check the diode(s) and driving transistors first with a DVM for short.
Coils don't usually short closed unless they were locked on for a long time.
Sounds like the transistor or diode shorted in the middle of the game; which is the more likely scenario given it wasn't just a fatigued fuse.
Regardless; sounds like you have some troubleshooting to do.
Quoted from johnstewart:"diodes and driving transistors".... these would be wired up to the shooting coil?
Yes. Consult the schematics.
There should be a diode across the coil on the board and the transistor which grounds that coils to activate
Is the yoke loose on the tube? Wondering if you gave a loose yoke which went out of alignment when you worked on it.
Quoted from justyn:What the heck is happening here?? I'm about ready to give up and convert to LCD.
https://vimeo.com/857185342
Looks like you have a high voltage cap going bad. Something's defiantly going on with the HV section of that monitor. Have you tried moving the h-size pot several times to see if it's a dirty POT?
Has the monitor been recapped?
Wasn't there a "distribution" called pinbox that unofficially replaced nucore after the lawsuits where done?
I'm not sure we'll ever see an OLED panel in 4x3 ratio which fits these games.
They are all wide aspect ratios suitable for TVs and movies and what not.
Love to be wrong tho.
Powered up my RFM after summer rest for the kids on Halloween.
Green Gun never appeared.
My poor CRT. I really need to pull it again and figure out why it's slow to "warm up" and now why the green isn't working.
It's just never been the same since I necked the CRT and had to do a tube swap.
: sad trombone :
I hesitate to use a Rejuvenator until I've exhausted all other efforts.
I need/want to look at caps to ensure I really did recap everything.
IIRC; I did a board swap with my known good monitor board - IE just swapped the tube with deflection yoke to minimized any purity/convergence issues.
Smart me would be on the lookout for yet another donor tube.
Regardless; it's a problem for future me.
Removing the CRT to fix an intermittent red connection was the reason I got myself into this pickle in the first place.
Also look for green sludge on the micro rollover switches. My rfm had at least 4 bad switches... I think it was bad soldering flux.
Quoted from justyn:Disconnected playfield, still blowing. Diode 33 and 34 test bad (while still on the power board). Trying to determine which transistor is related... For the record, I suck at reading wiring diagrams.
If D33 and D34 test bad and F112 is blowing ... that's your problem. D33-D36 make up a Full Wave Bridge rectifier. This means you are effectively shorting a winding of the transformer during 1/2 of the AC waveform and the cause of your fuse blowing.
I'd replace all 4 of these diodes (IE the other two were probably surged and will die quickly); and then re-test without connecting GI. If the fuse doesn't blow; you've probably fixed the problem.
I'd also "look" C57 and C58 for signs of going bad. If you have an ESR tester - test them. If not; at least make sure they aren't leaking or budging.
Quoted from justyn:Question - what would have initiated this failure? I was concerned re: a short on the playfield lighting matrix or something else having caused the diodes to fail but it sounds like that wasn't the case?
Could have been anything. No real way to tell.
Diodes do just fail some times.
Could have been one of the bulk caps (C57/C58) going short and taking out the diodes.
Maybe the ?previous owner? did something stoopid which caused the diodes to fry.
Just unlikely to find reason unless the reason still exists.
Is there a question in that response somewhere?
Are you asking for help or making a statement?
Sorry; it's just not clear
Quoted from insight75:Also, the CR2034 batteries...can I swap these in or will bios settings and such be impacted?
The bios settings will be lost on swap. Unless you are REALLY fast with the swap. Even then not a guarantee it would work or the settings wouldn't get corrupted.
Unless you have the motherboard plugged in with 5VSB. I don't think the stock BabyAT PSU supplies standby voltage...
so the swap would have to be while the system is running. Not advisable, IMHO.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Are these amps I see mentioned something that helps as a stop gap instead of rebuilding the monitor with new caps and flyback (if needed)?
No.
It's a needed fix tbh.
The output of the VGA card in the back box isn't up to snuff... being 0.7Vp-p output.
The monitor expects real TTL... so what you end up with is a signal that doesn't fully match the monitor. The picture quality then suffers.
Doesn't the PC need an AT Keyboard not a PS2 keyboard?
The fatter earlier, AT Keyboard can be adapted I think.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Keyboard-Adapter-Cable-GC56MF/dp/B000067SLW
You'll need to check the PC in the game... because it's been ages since I looked at this. Confirm the keyboard connector size.
Quoted from hAbO:I could not find a vendor for replacing the flat grey saucer plastic (even Planetary Pinball). Only the chrome ones are available at PinballLife.
https://www.pinballlife.com/revenge-from-mars-chrome-flying-saucer.html
The flat greys were available at one point; but, I think most have converted their game to Chrome.
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/revenge-from-mars/4242/saucer-small-for-revenge-from-mars
has them.
I could order some in my next order; but, given PBL now sells the chrome version - I don't see restocking the ones I currently sell:
https://pinball-mods.com/oscom/small-saucer-p-78.html
I don't think that part is correct. I think it's a standard lamp base; rivetted to the plastic.
I have those lamp bases in just about any translucent color:
https://pinball-mods.com/oscom/lamp-socket-p-77.html
If you are rebuilding; I'd do it in either clear or red.
You're going to need to determine what circuits are shared between the coils and trouble shoot.
I once chased a gremlin for years on my DE Star Trek... where it would fry the kickback coil.
Replaced coils; transistors, and even the TTL chip driving the coils. It would appear to be fixed... then months later; burn out the coil again.
Eventually; I figured out that I had a bad power connector (typical on this game)... that was fatigued with age and heat.
It would eventually break connection causing the logic to lock on with normal vibration of the machine leading to fried transistors and coils.
I'm not saying you have the same problem; just sharing a story to show that even the most of unlikely scenarios could be the cause your problems.
Be systematic and be prepared to spend a lot of time fixing it.
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Austin, TX
