(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"

By kjm8888

7 years ago

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4 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #2093 Wells Gardner K700 troubleshooting flow chart Posted by snakesnsparklers (3 years ago)

Post #2187 Links to updating the game code using windows 7 Posted by ForceFlow (3 years ago)

Post #2295 Adding the missing slingshot spotlights Posted by Lhyrgoif (2 years ago)

Post #2312 Version 2.0 custom code announcement Posted by applejuice (2 years ago)

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#1979 3 years ago

Hi All!

I'm hoping to join the club in the next few days, or failing that, the next few weeks. In each of the possible cases, I'll be hauling the game in the back of a van. When I've hauled EMs, I've just pulled off the backbox, and when I've hauled newer games, I've folded the backbox down. I'm pretty sure the RFM will fit with the backbox on, but is this a good idea? Is it attached solidly enough, or should I figure on taking it off for transport?


#1981 3 years ago
Quoted from arakissun:

It's enough strong.Just makr sure everything to be good secured because the glass.

Great, thanks!

#1985 3 years ago

Thanks for the input! I'll see how easily it can slide into the van, but to get into its new home it's definitely going to have to come apart, so this is great info!

Thanks again!

2 weeks later
#1991 3 years ago

Joined the club! Found one in nice shape just a couple of hours away. I also managed to score a restorable spare WG monitor.

One question, though: Is the game supposed to auto plunge after the ball save is activated? Mine just ejects the ball into the lane, and the player needs to hit the launch button. Is this normal?


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#1995 3 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

I believe that ball save is turned off by default. someone must have changed the settings for it to be enabled

Yes. That would be me.

Quoted from Jodannar:

Yep normal behaviour. Ball save doesn’t auto plunge the ball. You’ll turn the save off soon enough anyway

Perfect, thanks!

#1997 3 years ago
Quoted from Giulio:

Welcome and nice couple of pins !

Thanks! Love me some Martians!

#1998 3 years ago

Ok, another question: The black inside walls of the cabinet are a little lacking in excitement. I see that Pingraffix has these PinBlades, and that's all I've been able to find. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I think I saw that there was a set of mirror blades available a few years back, but they don't seem to be available anymore. What have other people done?


1 week later
#2010 3 years ago
Quoted from Giulio:

I got them and they look absolutely fantastic. I had mirrors before but after I scratched them pretty badly I did purchase the Pingraffix decals. They really add depth to the playfield, and are really easy to set up, removable and best think ever is they do not scratch, so no worries lifting up and down the playfield. Absolutely recommended, just my opinion.

Fantastic, thanks for the input! I did find that the mirrors are indeed available, but with shipping they look to be about twice the cost of the Pingraffix. The scratching had me really concerned as well, I think I'll be going for the Pingraffix,and I'll keep everyone posted.

Thanks again!

#2014 3 years ago

Hmm, things just got a bit interesting.

The image on my RFM was a bit too wide, and shifted a bit to the left. I removed the translite, and discovered that the remote pots that were supposed to be there weren't. I investigated a bit further, and discovered that, despite the big "Ducksan" on the label on the monitor frame, the chassis was, in fact, a Kortec KT-2001SF.

This actually helped explain another issue I've been having: on power-up, when the boot sequence gets to the white background, the display appears to collapse into a single horizontal line, then gradually starts to sync. It's still flickering when the sequence returns to a black background, and then settles down. It's not too big an issue, and it goes away after the game has been on for a few minutes.

That's the bad news.

The good news: On the way back from picking up my RFM, I stopped by another collector's workplace, and picked up a WG K7302 that he said hadn't worked since he got his game a few weeks earlier. He didn't have the frame, though, so I got the chassis and the tube, minus a couple of connectors that were snipped. I also got the daughterboard with the remote pots. The chassis doesn't appear to be damaged, and I half expect that a cap kit and a new flyback may be all that is needed (assuming the tube is ok).

What I don't have, though, and am hoping someone here might have a line on, is a spare frame on which to assemble the WG. I've posted an ad in the classifieds, but just in case, I was wondering if anyone who has done an LCD swap might still have their old monitor frame around and might be willing to part with it?

Thanks everyone!

#2016 3 years ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

That's actually the good news. That Kortek is a far better monitor. Sounds like whoever hooked it up may have made a mistake with the sync wiring though. I would start by going over that work.

I suspect a re-flow is probably the first step, as almost every monitor I've ever worked on has some cold solder joints somewhere. I'm just stoked that once I get the frames, I'll be able to build up a working, swappable monitor, probably just needing some adapter cables.

#2024 3 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

I have a colour cast on my monitor since moving the machine. I don’t think the monitor has a degaus circuit in it. I’ve depowered the machine for multiple days but it hasn’t removed it. Looks like magnetic interference (top left of monitor has blue cast)

I have that as well. I'm trying to figure out how to degauss the monitor with an external degaussing coil. The position makes the usual method awkward at best.

#2031 3 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

You can buy degaussing wands, about $25 over here. They work fine on any arcade monitors, sometimes takes a couple of passes to get it right.

Oh, I've got one, I'm just trying to work out how to make the big, circular sweeping motion that you're supposed to do in front of the screen with the monitor in the position where it sits in the game.

#2064 3 years ago

Welcome to this great club!

2 months later
#2148 3 years ago
Quoted from ForceFlow:

Anywhere between 2500 for a routed, but working example up to 3200 or so for a very nice example. If anyone asks more than that, it doesn't seem to move.

This sounds about right. $3K seems to be the "sweet spot". Much more than $32, and it's gotta be all original with something special going on.

2 weeks later
#2167 3 years ago
Quoted from rennervision:

I just joined the club!
I have a question about the monitor. Everything I've read indicates the monitor will either be a Wells Gardner or a Ducksan. I noticed my monitor is fitted inside a bracket with a Wells Gardner sticker, but on the back of the monitor is a giant label that indicates it's a Samsung model A48KRD82X02. Can anyone explain which monitor I have and what install hassles to expect if I want to do the Ultimarc video amp mod?

You're looking at the back of the tube. That could have all kinds of labels on it. Both manufacturers bought tubes from various suppliers at various times. You want to be looking at the monitor chassis (the PCB at the back of the bracket), which SHOULD be either a Ducksan or a WG. I say "should" because mine had the Ducksan sticker, but the chassis had been replaced by a Kortek.

Oh, and welcome to the club!

#2173 3 years ago
Quoted from bobwiley:

New rubbers: any that are better than others? Was going to just go with black from marcos or something.

RFM definitely needs something cooler than black rubbers! I'd suggest red or green. If you go Titan, the Glow-in-the-dark ones look awesome, even when they aren't glowing.

Quoted from bobwiley:

3d translite: anyone have it? Thoughts?

I got it after I managed to snap my old 2D one in half as I was taking it to get signed by Greg Freres. Seriously.

It actually wasn't that much more expensive than a 2D repro. That should be taken to mean that the 2D repro is crazy expensive.

The good news is that it does look REALLY cool, and also showed me just how much my old one had yellowed. Because the brittleness wasn't enough of a clue.

Quoted from bobwiley:

Playfield needs some touch up and supposedly there's a cliffy for the drop hole to the right of the center shot. Anyone have experience with it?

There is, I have it in mine. I am of the opinion that Cliffys are an excellent idea 100% of the time. In the case of RFM, it's barely noticeable, and I've never experienced a single case of gameplay being affected.

Otherwise, Plus one on everything ForceFlow said.

Welcome to the club!

1 week later
#2177 3 years ago
Quoted from bob_e:

Add me to the club, I just brought one home Saturday!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice! Looks really clean. Welcome!

3 months later
#2343 2 years ago

Has anyone had any luck running the updater in an emulator running XP under Ubuntu? I've got a Windows 10 dual-boot, but that's about as far back as I can go with "real" windows.

This is the first time I feel like I've got a good reason to update past 1.5!

#2367 2 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Having spoken to this user privately, the issue was resolved by redoing the update process. Seems there are some variables on the updating original hardware. Not surprising because of the amount of ways it can be done and the type of update machine/cable you can have. Seems to work fine though for most people with original hardware. And this user was on 4mb ram

First, THANK YOU for this amazing Christmas present!

Second, is there any chance you and Jodannar might be willing to share some of the specifics of what caused the issue? I'm on original hardware, and just a little cautious about attempting the upgrade for exactly those reasons.


#2370 2 years ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

Don't be scared of updating the machine. I did up and downgrade my machine multiple times. And yes things go wrong. Accidentally pulled the wrong cable... Windows started updating itself halfway through... Update failed for unknown reason...
BUT the game will automatically restore it to it default code it shipped with. So if things dont work or go wrong. You can simply retry the update.
I am on original hardware myself 4MB Ram

Quoted from Jodannar:

I reran the update and reseated all my coil plugs to be sure afterwards. I ran the update using the fupdate utility, at the slowest baud rate of 9600 and it was successful with no gameplay anomalies. I did have the update fail once, and rollback successfully when using a higher baud rate on original hardware.
Extensive ya testing last night and there are no issues with updating original hardware on 4mb original stock ram

Awesome, thanks for the reassurance, this will be tonight's project. I'll let you all know how it goes!

#2371 2 years ago

Well, it took a lot longer than I thought it would, but I appear to have succeeded!

What didn't work:

-Running fupdate.exe on Windows 10 with the old Cygwin files. It completely failed to launch.

-Installing Windows 2000 in a virtual machine using VMware Player under Ubuntu. In full disclosure, the FTDI-based USB to serial null modem cable that I used does not have drivers for anything older than XP, so that may well have been the roadblock. I was able to get the updater to install and run, but couldn't communicate with the game.

What DID work:

I dug out my old XP home edition install disk, and installed it in another VM under Ubuntu. This worked really well. I was able to use the updater, although when I tried it at 115200 bps, the game reset within a couple of seconds of showing the "flashing" screen. In what was probably an overabundance of caution, I set the speed back to 19200 and started the update. It took about 45 minutes, but seems to have worked just about perfectly. Honestly, I was so relieved that it worked after hours of installing all kinds of variants of Windows that I can't stand, that I'm not sure if I really thoroughly tested all the features out. I know for sure that it is a serious improvement in fun over version 1.5! I think I'll go do that right now.

Again, thank you very much applejuice for putting all the time and effort into this update, it's greatly appreciated!

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#2379 2 years ago

So, it looks like I don't have the super skill shot either. Was there any particular "magic bullet" that got it working for you who have it?

#2381 2 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Super skill shot seems to be there in some modes and not in others.

Ah, that complicates things. I'll check again, thank you.

#2383 2 years ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

Super skill shot is broken. It will be fixed according to 2.1 patch notes.

Then I will enjoy the game without it until it's fixed!

#2396 2 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Some more info on my trough upgrade idea. I've added some new code and options to enable in my software update and have taken the trough apart this afternoon to upgrade the optos installed. The boards are designed for 6 balls. (Stripped the full trough down whilst I was there to)
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Now to add some extra drives for these new optos. Having thought about it some more i really want 6 balls so, for a full 6 ball experience I'm going to need to use 3-opto board from the likes of fish tales etc, as annoyingly there is only 1 spare output on the rfm 's 10-way opto board.
Regarding a real knocker, yes i think this i possible to. I will add some more code to support this, probably from solenoid drive 18. We will need another opt in option in the system settings like for the trough upgrade.

Holy smokes, this is going to be AMAZING!

#2408 2 years ago

With the absolutely wonderful development that has been going on lately with this game, is there any possibility of adjusting the test mode parameters so they don't show LEDs as errors? Or is that something that is baked in at a hardware or too-deep firmware level?

applejuice , I gotta say, before 2.0 came along, RFM was my least favorite among my modest but highly curated collection. That is no longer the case. Thank you very much!

3 months later
#2666 2 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

[quoted image]
Visit https://mypinballs.com
Update notes: https://www.mypinballs.com/software/rfm/code_updates.jsp
Please consider donating if you like this software. Donations help support this and our other many pinball projects.
Happy Easter


Thank you for all your great work!

4 weeks later
#2803 2 years ago

I realize I may be dousing myself in kerosene for this one, but has anyone had any luck in brightening the playfield without going completely garish?

My game room is dimly lit, and my 85 year-old father has trouble seeing where the ball is going, so I was hoping to raise the overall lumens a little without going full stadium lights. The RFM at Logan Arcade in Chicago is a bit more than what I was thinking, but a similar idea. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to get a real good look at where the lights were hiding when I was there.

Any ideas?

#2808 2 years ago
Quoted from MustangPaul:

You have leds in it?

I do, yes.

#2809 2 years ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

Before actually changing something. You can try increasing the brightness via menu adjustments. Adjustments>System Adjustments>Power Saver>Lamp Intensity Level>Default is 5. 0=brightest 15=darkest. Hope this helps.

It helps a little, but I think the basic problem is that there just isn't any illumination on parts of the playfield. In any case, thanks for the tip, I didn't even see that option before.

1 month later
#3035 2 years ago

Got my shaker in!

I used the 3rd party shaker kit from Pinball Life. Everything went well, including relocating the tilt mech from the right side of the cab to the left, but when I went to drop the playfield, I found that the foot on the right hand ski was resting on top of the shaker cover. I just cut a small hole in the cover, which seemed like the most reasonable solution. Given the available area and the size of the cover, I'm not sure if this would be avoidable with this particular kit.

I'm more than happy to be wrong.

The shaker really adds a LOT to this game, thanks so much applejuice!
2019-07-17 17.56.29 (resized).jpg

#3039 2 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

I'm encountering the same issue and this is an interesting solution. Would you share a picture showing it with the play field up?


This kit uses a different concept for covering the weights than the one that applejuice used. That one just covers the weights, this one covers the whole assembly. I assume that the idea is to keep errant wires, etc. out of the swing of the weights rather than act as a dust cover, so I'm not worried about cutting into the middle part. Also, I'm pretty sure that there's nowhere in the corner you could mount this one without interference. Obviously I didn't think about this when I placed the motor, and I'm really glad that the foot fell in a location where it was only conflicting with the cover, and not the frame of the motor, or even worse, the path of one of the weights!

In time, if the cut bugs me, I'll probably end up designing a 3D printable set of end covers.

Also, on a side note, there's no path in the cover for the wires to route through, so there will be some cutting involved regardless. Actually, there is a hole on the top of the cover that I assumed was to catch the mounting screw for the fuse holder. Since this mod involves cutting the connector off, I suppose you could thread the wires through that hole, but then you'd need to mount the fuse somewhere else.

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#3043 2 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Why didn't you just mount the shaker to the far rhs side, as your pic shows a gap of about an inch next to the cab side? Others have mounted the stock stern shaker ok without cutting into the case.

It's kind of hard to see in the pic, but it's definitely way less than an inch at the top, and the cover flares a bit, so it's even tighter at the bottom, probably a quarter inch. Initially, I placed it assuming that I wasn't going to move the wire tidy on the inside cab wall, which I ended up doing anyway. Based on where the foot hits the cover, even if it were touching the inside wall of the cab, it would still interfere. It turns out that the kit I am using isn't manufactured by Stern, but is a 3rd party replacement. I suspect the "official" Stern kit's cover might be a bit smaller. In any case, the way the cover attaches to the frame of the motor, I'm confident that the weights are protected, and I'm not terribly worried about the actual motor's case.

Also, thanks again for all your work, it's like a whole new game!

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#3049 2 years ago

I'm really not sure why this seems to have become such a big issue among people.

The 3rd-party Stern-compatible shaker that I got from Pinaball Life came with an ugly, bulky, flimsy and not terribly well-designed or manufactured cover, which gets in the way of a playfield foot. It's not integral to the design of the shaker, and only attaches to the top of the assembly after it's been installed, and prevents access to anything below it, including the mounting bolts. It seemed to me that it was a better idea to cut a small hole in a cheap plastic part that no one wold ever see rather than drill more holes in the bottom of my cabinet.

I don't see why this is a big deal. Nonetheless, it did start to bug me, so I spent 15 minutes with OpenSCAD and threw a set of end covers onto the Prusa using PETG.

The results are much more compact, much stiffer and stronger, look better and solve the issue.

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#3051 2 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Excellent work!

Thanks! I've got a couple more little tweaks, then they'll be on Thingiverse. I've also got some translucent red PETG that I think would look pretty cool.

#3088 2 years ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

To be clear, this is the "best" shaker motor for this, right? In other words, requiring no modification (if mounted to the far right), plugs straight into applejuice harness?

That's the one I got that seems to have a slightly larger cover then the slightly more expensive "Official" Stern shaker.

Even with the cover shoved all the way into the corner, there is still interference with the foot under the playfield. There may be some variation, but mine doesn't fit. For the $20.00 difference in price, you'll need to use something like the 3D printed end covers that I whipped up.

Here's the one that others have gotten to fit without modification:


3 weeks later
#3116 2 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Did a quick check of the green LEDs on the coin entry ... I think I’m going to stick with it! It’s a deeper green in real life, the camera is washing out the pic a bit. The little ruby flakes in the finish also twinkle nicely in the light.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Pretty! I might have to do that as well!

4 weeks later
#3218 2 years ago

For anyone who was interested, I published my shaker cover design on Thingiverse.


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