(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"

By kjm8888

7 years ago


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4 key posts have been marked in this topic

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Post #2093 Wells Gardner K700 troubleshooting flow chart Posted by snakesnsparklers (3 years ago)

Post #2187 Links to updating the game code using windows 7 Posted by ForceFlow (3 years ago)

Post #2295 Adding the missing slingshot spotlights Posted by Lhyrgoif (2 years ago)

Post #2312 Version 2.0 custom code announcement Posted by applejuice (2 years ago)


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#4835 3 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Mystery modes were extras really but I will take a look at this. Maybe I can change it to only show status whilst the ball is in the shooter lane with a flipper press. No promises though

Now I am officially intrigued by your project. I think I will buy in and make a separate SSD for my Nucore computer to run your version of the software. Maybe a dual-boot system to allow that choice at startup.

Long live RFM, and thank you for your contributions!

1 week later
#4841 86 days ago

Here's mine

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#4845 86 days ago
Quoted from kcirrick:

I realized that Zee's board is pinned pretty much exactly the opposite of mine other than the key being in a different place and I have an extra pin - r8. I'm going to create my own connector to get everything pinned to the right place (ignoring my r8 and not hacking anything up). If that doesn't work then I'm sure we can work out a deal.

Page 3-16 of the operations manual has the schematic to help you not screw up your adapter harness! Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

#4851 81 days ago
Quoted from kcirrick:

My Ultimarc Video Amplifier Experience
I purchased the amplifier off of eBay thinking I would get it quick. No. It took ten days. While waiting for the amplifier I ran five volts from the computer and fabricated the cable I would need. Considering all the speak about how difficult this would be with a Ducksan I was a little apprehensive, but it was a slam dunk install. I cut the trace on the amplifier to separate the syncs, connected 5 volts, connected the wires to the amplifier as I had researched, powered up and adjusted the picture using the brightness, contrast and the flyback to get it the best I could and I was impressed. The amplifier really does make a huge difference.
The connector I had made was very loose resulting in a poor intermittent connection. I intended to buy a decent one, but since everything worked I felt safe cannibalizing the OEM cable and using that connector. Things still worked, but I couldn’t leave well enough alone and that’s when things went horribly wrong. I remembered reading about removing and jumping R4 to get better blacks. Okay, I can do that – and I did... on the amplifier. {You can laugh at the idiot now.} Too late I realized my mistake. Not R4 on the video amplifier. R4 on the control PCB. Strangely, the amplifier still worked, but I had no blue. (I don’t know if this is due to the damage I did to the amplifier or just my loose connector, but messing with the connector didn’t help.) I had gone ahead and jumped R4 up by the pots (without cutting the resister figuring “the path of least resistance”) and got a very dim colorless screen. Being unable to adjust and improve it, I removed the jump. The more I worked trying to recover blue the worse things got. Now no picture at all. I don’t understand. Adjust brightness, contrast, flyback no help. Figuring I had fried the amplifier I reassembled the original cable and still had no picture. I’m knee deep in it now and am terrified I've fried something important. I’m thinking I’m going to have to buy a new cable except, as we all know, they're impossible to find. Fortunately, I did eventually get the original cable working again and the picture was back the way it was prior to the install attempt.
I still wanted the amplifier and being a glutton for punishment, I ordered a new one – from England this time. I didn’t get it in three days, but the six days it took for DHL to place it in my hands was better than the ten days it took for the first one to get to West Texas from Oklahoma.
While waiting, I lost the battle with the six ball trough upgrade.
When the new video amplifier arrived, I started from scratch by cutting the trace on the amplifier. I reassembled my fabricated cable. Powering up I got a screen that looked like the horizontal hold had gone wild. I verified the trace was fully cut and that everything was connected correctly, but got no change. I pressed down on my fabricated connector and the screen flickered. Time to again cannibalize the OEM connector. Drum roll please… It worked! I adjusted everything trying to get the best picture I could. It could still use some fine tuning, but I have to admit that it is significantly better.
I still can’t leave well enough alone so I jump R4 on the control PCB after first clipping a leg on one end of the resistor this time. Again I have that dim colorless screen. No adjustments I could make would change it. I’ve got to be doing something wrong and I've had enough. I solder the severed resister back together, make some adjustments and leave it at that. You’ve seen photos of the difference this modification makes and they never do it justice so I won’t bother, but the picture is definitely worlds better. Before, the images were transparent. Now they are solid and bright. I would like to get better blacks still, but I’ve had enough of this for now. It’s time for a break from working on the video. Leave well enough alone. Whew!
I made this upgrade much more difficult than it needed to be. Anyone with a Ducksan installing the video amplifier, here is all you need to do.
Cut that trace on the video amplifier.
Open up the computer, tap into 5 volts and solder it to the amplifier exactly as shown in the instructions. (I added a little connector to the power wire near the amplifier so I could easily disconnect it if I needed to rather than having to unsolder it.)
Take a look at the OEM CGA cable where it connects to the monitors main PCB. You will see the red, green and blue wires split and each connects to two pins on the connector. Make your new connector just like this except do not split the red, green and blue. Leave pins 2, 4 and 6 empty.
Wire your new connector as follows:
Red to pin 1
Green to pin 3
Blue to pin 5
White (H\V) to pin 7
Yellow (V) to pin 8
Ground to pins 9 and 10
Connect the wires to the amplifier terminals as follows:
Red to Red
Green to Green
Blue to Blue
Yellow to Sync
Both grounds to ground
White to the remaining terminal
Do this and I guarantee it will work. It worked for me until I tried to make things better.
Now you just start adjusting the picture using the brightness and contrast pots on the control PCB behind the back glass and the flyback’s focus and brightness on the main PCB. Make sure the wires of your new cable aren’t too close to other wires back there as it will cause distortion on the monitor unless you’ve used a shielded cable.
Clipping and jumping R4 on the control PCB didn’t work for me, but then my machine is a prototype and things aren’t always the same as production machines – as in the opto PCB when attempting the 6 ball trough upgrade. If you want to try it I suggest just clipping the middle of one leg of the resistor and then jump it. If it doesn’t work then you can just solder that leg back together as I did.
I’m already working on my next project. The topper. I purchased the $100 topper found on Etsy meant for Arcade1up Attack from Mars. It’s simple, just two pieces of plexiglass, but it looks really good. It’s only back lit with a single white LED strip which is not very exciting so I’m customizing the lighting. This I can do.

That was quite the misadventure!
FWIW, I'm using the original WG monitor (new capacitors) with a Nucore computer and the video amplifier and I feel fortunate that it's all working quite well - the display looks like new.

1 month later
#4958 47 days ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Great, that's what I thought. Why are people still using the bootleg pinbox then? Is it because it's easier to get set up?

I think people use the bootleg because they didn't have to pay for the software; it was a ripoff of Nucore. I have infinite respect for the Nucore team; they brought my machine back to life with a great product and I was happy to support their efforts.

1 month later
#4987 14 days ago
Quoted from Asure:

It's a bit of hit-and-miss with LCD, mine came with a Consumer Dell 19" but i upgraded it to a Eizo CG 21" and this matches the ramps perfectly. These are also industrial/professional monitors with good blacks and RGB. These are still possible to find on second hand sites, and i really wanted a square screen instead of 16:9 widescreen.

I'm hoping LG will someday make 4:3 OLED panels for applications like this and for arcade games. Otherwise I've not seen a suitable LCD for this particular application. I can always see the backlight where it should be pure black.

Meanwhile I keep nursing the CRT monitor along and looking for spares...

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