Hey guys, I’m new here but I’m getting ready to grab my 2nd pin and it will be RFM. Friend of mine is a route operator and has had it in his garage for years and I talked him out of it. It appears that even when it was in use it didn’t get much play time. Is there anything I need to check right out of the gate? Any concerns with software? I have no clue what version of code it has in it.

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Is RFM dimensionally similar to stanadard pinball? I know the head box is much larger to accommodate the CRT but does it have a traditional sized cabinet and playfield?

Do you by chance have a measurement from front to rear? I’m getting ready to pick this game up from a local operator and need to see about how long it is. I’d ask him but the game is in the back of his storage and we are going to have to dig it out

mattosborn thanks

Does anyone know if it’s possible to put a dollar bill validator on a RFM or SWE1? If so, which models are known to work?

Awesome. Thanks.

Having a lighting issue with my RFM. It blows F111 fuse as soon as it’s powered up. F111 handles Lamp Matrix A. Any idea of what could be bad or what should test to diag this issue?

What does all of this mean? I’m assuming the self diag is seeing switch and lamp problems?

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Is the knocker volume adjustable? Even with the volume turned down the knocker is a bit obnoxious. Putting mine on location in a restaurant and don’t want the owner bitching that the game is barking to loudly.

That’s exactly what it was. 2 dead diodes in the circuit.

I did art blades on Metallica and it sucked with the playfield in place. On RFM I’d pull the playfield out and get it all lined up and do one half of each blade at a time.

Well shit… My CRT just bit the dust. Flyback is arcing like crazy. Just ordered a new flat panel. I was planning on it anyway but was hoping it would last longer than a week lol.

It’s not but the game is on location and I need it to run. I’m not going to trash the monitor but it’s not getting fixed immediately

Found my monitor issue. No wonder it was putting on a light show, flyback cracked all to hell. Green circles are cracks. Red circle shows a constant stream of electricity was jumping to the metal plate.

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LCD turned out great IMHO. I had to play with the brightness and contrast but I got the black looking pretty good. You can see the difference in these two pictures. Martian and Abe are before adjustment. Cow and Duck are after I played with it some.

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I have to be honest with you, I don’t care. Also, the alignment isn’t correct because it was just being test fitted. I also wasn’t going to spend a fortune fixing the CRT. It was incredibly dim and the flyback fried and I’m not sure what else it took with it.

I can see where that would probably work as well. I’m going to play with this one and see how close I can get it. The CRT is definitely a little bigger

It’s all good. I should have stated in my original post that it looks great considering what it is. I know that an LCD can’t replace a CRT for black quality and alignment. All of my arcades are still running CRT and I would never change them unless it’s a last resort option. This however needs to be reliable and more visible in lighted environment because it’s on location. The weight savings is also a big factor.

Yours looks great. Mine was very dim and then the fly back was literally welding the frame lol. I’m going to asses the damage and see how bad it is but for now the LCD will do the job

I posted earlier about the LCD swap I did on my Revenge From Mars. Here are a few pics showing some of the details of how we did it.

The original CRT frame also holds the light for the translite but leaving it in place makes it difficult to close up the gaps around the monitor to keep light from bleeding around the edges and down to the playfield. I completely removed the original frame and light with the CRT and built a bezel out of 1/4” plywood and painted it black. I then attached the LCD to the bezel with some machine screws. I still had a tiny gap around the edge but it was easy enough to use electrical tape to close the gap completely. I then laid the monitor into the cabinet and turned the game on to align it and get the position the best I could, however the dimensions aren’t the same as the CRT so it’s not perfect, but close. Once positioned I ran screws through the bezel to hold it to the cabinet.

I used an adapter and splitter to run power to the monitor and new LED backlight from the power supply in the PC box overhead.

The monitor has CGA and VGA input and I found that you can run the VGA connection to the computer and it supports the CGA signal just fine and no converters are needed.

The LCD doesn’t have a true black like a CRT but you can get it looking ok if you dial the brightness back and turn the contrast up a little.

It was pretty straight forward but isn’t a direct fit so hopefully this will help someone else one day.

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That makes two of us

I just did one. if you want the details send me a PM

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-hillary-come-here-you-gotta-see-this/page/103#post-6787842

I’m getting ready to change the power supply and batteries in my RFM and SWE1. Anything I need to know about changing batteries? Will we have to reprogram BIOS settings and all that crap once the batteries are replaced?

Athena Power AP-AT30 300W AT Power Supply 6Pin P8 6pin P9 Connector https://a.co/d/df6dAOn

I’m going to guess the shaker is over taxing the power supply and causing a voltage drop which triggers the reboot.