Quoted from mattosborn:

It's a normal green flasher dome that gets glued to the saucer.

Quoted from applejuice:

Hi, as you found out j111 and j110 are the same. For purity the official WMS connector should be in j110 as per the manual. The auxiliary one in j111.

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

That blue cable is really stretched, I would be afraid it coming loose at the socket. Why not just skip the first cable clip and let it slack a bit...

Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

- The only way to re-flash the PUB card is with a computer that has an ISA slot and a particular program.
- To update you game without a PUB card, use null modem method.
https://brianpeek.com/pinball-2000-software-update-with-windows-7-x64/

Quoted from Jodannar:

Amazing work apple juice. I’ll have to get out the serial adaptor and do an update again

Quoted from Clytor:

Our RFM is now running applejuice 2.2 software. The knocker is a nice addition but my 23-800 coil is a little much. I think the Nextdoor neighbor can probably hear it when it fires The shaker is really cool!

Quoted from Ricochet:

Its entirely optional.

Quoted from TikiPinball:

So I successfully updated my software using my handy Windows 2000 IBM Thinkpad (knew I kept that for something). All the bulbs in and flippers rebuilt, playing fine, so the final step is- RECAPPING the DUCKSAN!
I am a don't fix it if it aint broke guy (an engineer). So in the interest of efficiency does anybody know the answers to the following:
1) My monitor is bright and the color is good. When first turned on it is sharp and clean as could be. But as it warms up it starts to defocus. It is slow enough not to be real noticeable for about 10 minutes or so. But by 30 minutes it is fuzzy enough you cant easily read the scores. Does anyone know which capacitors are the ones which are likely to affect focus? Or whether that circuit is on the main power board or the neck board?
2) It appears to me that I can pull the main power board and neck board out the back without pulling the CRT or chassis- is this correct?
3) Other than the obvious HV hazards/crt implosion etc anything else to look out for?

Quoted from TikiPinball:

Is limited defocusing a symptom of a failing flyback transformer? It certainly isn't losing brightness, color, or doing anything else weird, so I would be inclined to say, no. I can leave it on all day and it is stable but out of focus. But if you could point me to something definite then I could at least move on to other options.

Quoted from Zitt:

I use the exact same laptop to update.

Quoted from mattosborn:You need to crank up the baud rate! I always have it set to the max.

Quoted from DrWaz:

Sorry to ask , I just picked up a RFM. Is there a type of cleaner I should or should not use on the playfield glass?

Quoted from Zitt:

Doesn't Windex have ammonia in it which can react badly with the metallic coating on Pin2k glass?
I use old Windex Advanced... which afaik was discontinued.

Quoted from Lithonion:

Ok I got everything fixed and working 100% and have to say loving this pin. Actually the first time I played a fully working RFM.
I do have a head scratcher, I am thinking of getting the shaker loom and motor soon to add to my pin. I was looking at the install guide and it shows the loom on J11 with the main pin harness on J10. When I purchased my pin the main harness is plugged into J11 on the Power Driver Board and double checked my pictures before I pulled the board and confirmed I got the pin this way. Also I have three plugged into J06, 08, 09 nothing in J07. I see on the install doc J06 is not used and J07, 08, 09 are used. Everything is working as it should. The only thing off is in a light test the two lower spot lamps are backwards in the test. When it blinks the left spot the right flashes and vis versa.
Here is a picture of mine the way it's hooked up now. Are those just redundant backups?
[quoted image]

Quoted from DrWaz:

Ok so I moved my RFM like 4 feet to a different wall and now it looks like my monitor no longer is showing the color red? What the hell could I have possibly done by moving the pin like 4 feet?

Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I just got back in the club for the third time. Picked up a lovely machine that had been in a home for the last 15+ years. I am guessing I am the third owner.
One question, this machine is very clean sans a couple of dings in the T-Molding. Has anyone ever found a solid replacement or know the measurements off hand? I guess mostly is it centered or an offset molding.

Quoted from nerdygrrl:

So I am trying to get the RFM I picked up last week setup. It looks like one of the leg levelers/legs are stripped. The silver piece the leg leveler threads into just spins freely and no matter what I do heat, PB blaster, etc it will not budge.
It looks like I will have to order another leg which is a bummer given what great shape these were in. I checked out Pinball Life and they have a set of Williams black powder coated and then a Pin 2K specific coat which is $20 more. Can anyone tell me if there is an actual difference in finish?
Pin 2K: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-rfm-and-swep1-legs-set-of-4.html
Black Powdercoat: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-black-legs-set-of-4.html

Quoted from nerdygrrl:

The problem is the piece that it threads into. If I cut it off, I can't thread the leveler. It's a fixed piece.

Quoted from nerdygrrl:

The hole for the leveler would then be too wide and it would wiggle unfortunately.

Quoted from Only68s:

Can someone please take a picture of the diode And the fuse that is installed with the Sam shaker motor?

Quoted from MrMikeman:

I am a tester/early adopter and also got my kit this week. I installed it today and it was fairly simple but I have Lots of soldering experience and the correct tool for idc connectors.
If you lack the experience or tools to do this correctly then this beta version probably isn’t for you...

Quoted from MrMikeman:

Yep!
And a decent soldering iron / desoldering tool or iron.. the flipper boards have solder where the led’s go.. so remove solder then install led’s.

Quoted from MrMikeman:

Stop copying me!
[quoted image]

Quoted from MrMikeman:

NO!
Actually it needs to be the .100 version. I used that one(.156) and caused probs.. bad contact. Will have to redo both ends.

Quoted from MrMikeman:

NO!
Actually it needs to be the .100 version. I used that one(.156) and caused probs.. bad contact. Will have to redo both ends.

Quoted from MrMikeman:

It’s a common issue. The jump ramp “sticking” up also happens for the same reason. I demagnetized both and now both work correctly.
It’s a minor annoyance. I wouldn’t replace it. Played mine using flippers to release for months.

Quoted from dashv:

I got some art blades for this that won’t stay stuck! Do I need to throw the blades away or is there something I can try to give them more stick?

Quoted from ryandimx:

I'm also getting ready to connect the shaker motor. I have the motor installed. The instructions say you don't need to board from stern. Can anyone who has done it grab me a picture of what the connection to the motor with the fuse and diode will look like? Thaaaaannks

Quoted from ryandimx:

The board part is pretty straight forward. It's where/how to add the fuse and diode that I need help with.

I had that tool at some point and couldn't find it so I cheated. Stripped about a quarter inch exposing wire, put that straight down and bent it back to catch in the connector. Test with a meter to make sure it's good and put the caps back on.

That looks like you still have the original connection piece on it. Did you use the stern board then or cut it off and add the one that came with the harness?

Quoted from dwightheinink:

Well guys,
I thought this was pretty awesome to share.
Today the former chairman of the Dutch pinball club was today here, and he brought me these awesome promo stuff for my rfm!
Have someone ever see this? He said it was gaven to him in England, at a pinball market as promotion stuff!
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"4eb7d30db01e1e4ac6fc4b992a0cee252e0e603f-1631982610-1800"};
//]]>

[quoted image]

Quoted from Flippermatt:

Problem is I'm in Europe and we're all 220v here. Cannot find tube, starter or ballast here with 110v

Quoted from Flippermatt:

That is my idea... Question is where do I conveniently source the 12 V dc ?

Quoted from Robb63:

Where can I pick up a set of mirror blades for my revenge from Mars?

Quoted from themotherbrain:

I just finished putting my blades on too. They are the best looking ones available in my opinion. I've the big o jiggly Martians and saucer kit installed as well.
The Flipper freaking out is a power drain during Martian multiball. It's supposed to do that.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from Blamer:

I've got a problem I hope you can help me fix.
It's happening that the ball is not being released, sometimes it takes a few seconds and sometimes I have to wait for 'ball search' when starts the cycle of all the moving components and the pin finally lowers.
[quoted image]
It's getting annoying, specially during 'Mars Kneads Women' after every video sequence.
What could be causing it? balls? dirty sensors? (I cleaned them with IPA and it seems to be a bit better but didn't fix it)

Quoted from Blamer:

Thanks for the hint, yes, it was magnetized!
I have a magnetizer/demagnetizer that I use with my screwdrivers and I demagnetize it, it now works a lot better. As soon as I press a flipper it releases the ball.

Quoted from mastercello:

Thanks, was a bit confused about it, as my old RFM didn't act like this.
Can you share what spring you used, please?

Quoted from OutlawTorn304:

Found my monitor issue. No wonder it was putting on a light show, flyback cracked all to hell. Green circles are cracks. Red circle shows a constant stream of electricity was jumping to the metal plate.
[quoted image]

Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Question - what’s the verdict on Video Amplifiers? Looks good without one, but wondering if I should get one anyway. Shows as $23 on Ultimarc, but then checking out it’s $42. So that’s what I’m balking at, is it worth it?

Quoted from sirpinball:

RE Update v2.23: Alien Abduction - Added more speech, some adult!
Since I have a 7 year old who plays this, how adult are we talking? Does turning on Family Mode suppress it?
I suppose it might spoil the surprise, but it would be cool to update the audio list I’ve seen with all the new lines

Quoted from Zee:

I have a pair of fans mounted to the rear panel, blowing out through the existing slots. They are powered by the subwoofer power supply I have on the back of the cabinet. They are not heat-controlled, just on all the time.
[quoted image]

Quoted from TheClownpuncher:

Can someone post a pic of where/how you installed the diode on the shaker? for some reason, I just can't picture in my mind how it's mounted.

Quoted from Leaftail:

Has anyone found a good replacement for the blackstrip on the front of the ball catch? I'm thinking about gaff tape, as it is flat black and won't cause a glare. Glare is the one downside of adding a video amplifier.

Quoted from Lithonion:

In case anyone didn't get the email about the new translite. Just ordered mine!!
https://www.flylanddesigns.com/product/revenge-from-mars-alternate-translite/
[quoted image]

Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Pretty sure that is just because he's using one of those lighted frames and it may be on blue setting or even cool white could cause that. Regular tube in the game won't have that effect.

Quoted from brian-allen:

Thanks! I can assure you that it doesn't look blue in real life. This is in an LED frame with white turned way up, and the blue hue is from the camera. It's very difficult to photograph something that is illuminated. If you're interested in trying it out, we'd always accept a return/refund if you weren't happy with it.

Quoted from Lithonion:

Pictures don't do Brian Allen's translite justice. My wife want's me to order another and have it framed. lol I told her we are good with the one, no wall space left for another framed art piece. If your on the fence about buying it, you won't be disappointed. First pic was to try to get how good the clear coat is on the print. You can see my hand over the translite. The other two are in the pin.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from bob_e:

where did you get it?

Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

I was on the fence... but I Really like the look of it here...
Dang it... there goes more cash!!

Quoted from Zee:

You need the right tool for the job.
https://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=13-3504

Quoted from Zitt:

Except for an IDC punch down tool which is used EVERYWHERE on most modern machines... using it once seems unlikely.
Unless your the type of person who replaces IDC connectors with crimp-on connectors. No judgement; I do it.

Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Working.
Used a cheaper option off Amazon.
Worked effortlessly.

Quoted from Lostcause:

Joined the club, nice surprise that it had myPinballs saucers mod!
Just need someone to help me lift the backbox on then I can see what’s what and what upgrades I need to do
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Quoted from Nickz4860:

After converting to an LCD I’m 100% happy with the results. I am planning on selling the crt monitor, and was wondering if anyone knows how much they’re worth in working condition. Thanks

Quoted from GILV:

Thanks for the tip but this is my first recap job and will most probably be my last as well, so buying that tool won't be a good investement for me.
I hope the chassis will work well though, I'm a little nervous, I just ordered the 4 non polarized capacitors I was missing to finish the job and I will install it afterwards, should be next monday or tuesday.

Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

If you or a friend has a CRT rejuvenator, that's what I'd try next. You may not have to remove the monitor to do it. Can't recall how much clearance there is in there.