Guys, where is the light starter located on Pinball 2K ? I thought it would be next to the light tube but I can't see it.
Thanks
Matt
(Topic ID: 89874)
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Revenge From Mars
Bally, 1999
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3 years later
My fluorescent tube has given up... I'll zip tie 1 or 2 led strips directly on the existing broken tube.
Where is the easiest place for me to source 12V dc up there ?
Thanks
Matt
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Proper replacement bulb is just a couple bucks. It also could be the starter that is the issue and not the bulb and that is also a couple bucks. If the ballast is bad, that could be about $20 or so. Had to replace the ballast in a recent Spiderman pick up.
Problem is I'm in Europe and we're all 220v here. Cannot find tube, starter or ballast here with 110v 
Quoted from Irishbastard:If you can't source the parts, just use a cheap under cabinet LED light (A typical replacement for arcade marquee lights as its cheaper than a replacement bulb).
I have used something like this from Walmart (One I bought recently for a slot machine was $7), you must have something similar there: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-700-Lumen-12-LED-Under-Cabinet-Light-Linkable/465517393
That is my idea... Question is where do I conveniently source the 12 V dc ?
6 months later
My RFM won't boot...
I have reseated the Prism card a 10 times by now.. This was a previous problem and it did the trick getting the game to boot when the prism got reseated.
I have replaced the std 3v accessible battery. No help.
What is the best way to separate the Prism cards in order to access the 2nd sandwiched battery ? It was kind of hard to source but I finally got a new 3v battery for that slot as well.
1. If this battery is dead, could it be the culprit ?
2. Someone wrote the sandwiched battery is purely a back up and won't play a difference... True or not ?
3. My main version of the board does not have the capacitors that are prone to leaking according to PinWiki.
4. There is another slot where the Prism card could go in to.. Should I try that slot also ? Same functionality ?`
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Matt
Quoted from Flippermatt:My RFM won't boot...
I have reseated the Prism card a 10 times by now.. This was a previous problem and it did the trick getting the game to boot when the prism got reseated.
I have replaced the std 3v accessible battery. No help.
What is the best way to separate the Prism cards in order to access the 2nd sandwiched battery ? It was kind of hard to source but I finally got a new 3v battery for that slot as well.
1. If this battery is dead, could it be the culprit ?
2. Someone wrote the sandwiched battery is purely a back up and won't play a difference... True or not ?
3. My main version of the board does not have the capacitors that are prone to leaking according to PinWiki.
4. There is another slot where the Prism card could go in to.. Should I try that slot also ? Same functionality ?`
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Matt
Can anybody point me in the right direction ?
Quoted from CoPinfan:This worked for me when my pc stopped turning on. Not sure if this is what you mean when you say it won’t boot, but my pc would not power on at all when I turned on the switch. I removed the pc from the game and plugged it into a power outlet. I opened the top, removed the power switch jumper from the prism card to the mother board and turned the power switch to the pc on. Then I jumped the power switch pins with a small screwdriver and the pc started up. I shut down the pc and put everything back together and started the machine up and it worked.
Thanks for the input here. My computer powers on, the red light on the computer case lights up.. Fans are running. This looks to be another solution.
1. I want to start by changing the battery that is sandwiched inbetween.
2. It measures 3v on the outside battery holder when game is turned off and battery is not under load.
Has anyone split the Prism cards ever ? Any special approach doing this, looks delicate ? Is the Prism battery a show stopper if not supplying the 3v ?
Thanks
Matt
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