Thasks Paul. What's the price on that?
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Can anyone here comment on the latest LEDS and their ability (or inability) to dim for the lightshow as designed for this game?
What lights are supposed to dim? All? Or just some?
The RFM I bought has all LEDS (haven't taken it home yet) thinking about switching back some or all to incandescent...
Which leds did you use?
I'm more thinking about how the lights were designed to dim for the light show not that leds would be to dim.
Thanks Merccat. That's exactly what I was looking for. What color Leds do you like and what brand/type?
OK. I picked up my rfm today. Yes!
It clearly needs a video amp.
Not sure what monitor it has yet.
1. How do I find out which monitor it is?
2. Can I adjust the brightness somehow as a stopgap until I can get the video amp parts?
And
3. Do 'caps' affect this? Of so which ones?
Thanks soldiers,
Adam
I think I'll take it to him. What did it run.
And this is interesting:
Monitor says: Samsung!
It's a crt...
Nice powder coat!
That blue is perfect on swe1.
I'm a little surprised powder coat doesn't mess up the coin door hinges.
Do you sandblast them first?
A question about video amps:
Does anyone have evidence that a video amp could or could not 'burn up' a crt? I've heard some concern about the way they 'overdrive' the monitor...
I'm probably better off having the caps serviced, but, it's cheaper to do the video amp. And I've just read so many rave reviews here about how great the video amp 'mod' is...
Thanks Zitt. I'll have a good look at the caps and do the right thing if they look bad. Thanks again, Adam.
I've seen the 'Easter eggs' code a few places: b, 1l, 1r etc. But what is b? I've tried both of the 'extra ' buttons but can't get the image...
Software issue?
Twice I've beat mothership multi ball.
And both times, just when I beat it, I got a TILT.
The first time I thought maybe I bumped the table in my excitement? Maybe? The second time I definitely did not. Should I reinstall software? FWIW: I'm running v1.4 right now.
Thanks again,
Adam.
Thanks. I'll check know there. It's only like .1% of the time... almost always works. But not Always.
Quoted from merccat:Possible, the flipper buttons show up in the switch test, look there first to see if its being flaky.
Nothing wiers in diagnostics...
Can these things be flaky if they're dusty/dirty?
Ugh.
Iinstalled my new cliffys! They're sweet!
But, somehow, now my start button is intermittent and no ball will kick out... no errors when I run the diagnostic. Thoughts?
Got it!
I took out the playfield completely to look for bad wires, broken solder joints and the like...
It was immediately apparent:
One of the multi-pin connectors that connects the cabinet to the playfield was loose. No where near where I was installing the cliffys, but, nonetheless it plays great now and I love the cliffys!
I had a flaky right flipper - sometimes it wouldn't flip when button was pushed.
as a test i switched the "flipper switch boards" from left to right and visa versa.
as i suspected the left flipper is now lame.
does anybody have a good spare "flipper switch board" to sell?
I know 'lock when lit' and others sell this part, i just thought i would check here first.
Thanks!
Adam.
Quoted from Badamack:I had a flaky right flipper - sometimes it wouldn't flip when button was pushed.
as a test i switched the "flipper switch boards" from left to right and visa versa.
as i suspected the left flipper is now lame.
does anybody have a good spare "flipper switch board" to sell?
I know 'lock when lit' and others sell this part, i just thought i would check here first.
Thanks!
Adam.
Just thought I'd follow up on this. I got a new board from pinball life and installed it tonight. Works great. I also got a microswitch and diode to replace a bad one I had on the right orbit. Big of beam is much more attainable now that that switch works...
RFM is a great game, but, I'm out of space and have a new game coming in so I'm leaving the club...
See my ad if your looking.
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