(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"

By kjm8888

7 years ago


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#4851 31 days ago
Quoted from kcirrick:

My Ultimarc Video Amplifier Experience
I purchased the amplifier off of eBay thinking I would get it quick. No. It took ten days. While waiting for the amplifier I ran five volts from the computer and fabricated the cable I would need. Considering all the speak about how difficult this would be with a Ducksan I was a little apprehensive, but it was a slam dunk install. I cut the trace on the amplifier to separate the syncs, connected 5 volts, connected the wires to the amplifier as I had researched, powered up and adjusted the picture using the brightness, contrast and the flyback to get it the best I could and I was impressed. The amplifier really does make a huge difference.
The connector I had made was very loose resulting in a poor intermittent connection. I intended to buy a decent one, but since everything worked I felt safe cannibalizing the OEM cable and using that connector. Things still worked, but I couldn’t leave well enough alone and that’s when things went horribly wrong. I remembered reading about removing and jumping R4 to get better blacks. Okay, I can do that – and I did... on the amplifier. {You can laugh at the idiot now.} Too late I realized my mistake. Not R4 on the video amplifier. R4 on the control PCB. Strangely, the amplifier still worked, but I had no blue. (I don’t know if this is due to the damage I did to the amplifier or just my loose connector, but messing with the connector didn’t help.) I had gone ahead and jumped R4 up by the pots (without cutting the resister figuring “the path of least resistance”) and got a very dim colorless screen. Being unable to adjust and improve it, I removed the jump. The more I worked trying to recover blue the worse things got. Now no picture at all. I don’t understand. Adjust brightness, contrast, flyback no help. Figuring I had fried the amplifier I reassembled the original cable and still had no picture. I’m knee deep in it now and am terrified I've fried something important. I’m thinking I’m going to have to buy a new cable except, as we all know, they're impossible to find. Fortunately, I did eventually get the original cable working again and the picture was back the way it was prior to the install attempt.
I still wanted the amplifier and being a glutton for punishment, I ordered a new one – from England this time. I didn’t get it in three days, but the six days it took for DHL to place it in my hands was better than the ten days it took for the first one to get to West Texas from Oklahoma.
While waiting, I lost the battle with the six ball trough upgrade.
When the new video amplifier arrived, I started from scratch by cutting the trace on the amplifier. I reassembled my fabricated cable. Powering up I got a screen that looked like the horizontal hold had gone wild. I verified the trace was fully cut and that everything was connected correctly, but got no change. I pressed down on my fabricated connector and the screen flickered. Time to again cannibalize the OEM connector. Drum roll please… It worked! I adjusted everything trying to get the best picture I could. It could still use some fine tuning, but I have to admit that it is significantly better.
I still can’t leave well enough alone so I jump R4 on the control PCB after first clipping a leg on one end of the resistor this time. Again I have that dim colorless screen. No adjustments I could make would change it. I’ve got to be doing something wrong and I've had enough. I solder the severed resister back together, make some adjustments and leave it at that. You’ve seen photos of the difference this modification makes and they never do it justice so I won’t bother, but the picture is definitely worlds better. Before, the images were transparent. Now they are solid and bright. I would like to get better blacks still, but I’ve had enough of this for now. It’s time for a break from working on the video. Leave well enough alone. Whew!
I made this upgrade much more difficult than it needed to be. Anyone with a Ducksan installing the video amplifier, here is all you need to do.
Cut that trace on the video amplifier.
Open up the computer, tap into 5 volts and solder it to the amplifier exactly as shown in the instructions. (I added a little connector to the power wire near the amplifier so I could easily disconnect it if I needed to rather than having to unsolder it.)
Take a look at the OEM CGA cable where it connects to the monitors main PCB. You will see the red, green and blue wires split and each connects to two pins on the connector. Make your new connector just like this except do not split the red, green and blue. Leave pins 2, 4 and 6 empty.
Wire your new connector as follows:
Red to pin 1
Green to pin 3
Blue to pin 5
White (H\V) to pin 7
Yellow (V) to pin 8
Ground to pins 9 and 10
Connect the wires to the amplifier terminals as follows:
Red to Red
Green to Green
Blue to Blue
Yellow to Sync
Both grounds to ground
White to the remaining terminal
Do this and I guarantee it will work. It worked for me until I tried to make things better.
Now you just start adjusting the picture using the brightness and contrast pots on the control PCB behind the back glass and the flyback’s focus and brightness on the main PCB. Make sure the wires of your new cable aren’t too close to other wires back there as it will cause distortion on the monitor unless you’ve used a shielded cable.
Clipping and jumping R4 on the control PCB didn’t work for me, but then my machine is a prototype and things aren’t always the same as production machines – as in the opto PCB when attempting the 6 ball trough upgrade. If you want to try it I suggest just clipping the middle of one leg of the resistor and then jump it. If it doesn’t work then you can just solder that leg back together as I did.
I’m already working on my next project. The topper. I purchased the $100 topper found on Etsy meant for Arcade1up Attack from Mars. It’s simple, just two pieces of plexiglass, but it looks really good. It’s only back lit with a single white LED strip which is not very exciting so I’m customizing the lighting. This I can do.

That was quite the misadventure!
FWIW, I'm using the original WG monitor (new capacitors) with a Nucore computer and the video amplifier and I feel fortunate that it's all working quite well - the display looks like new.

#4852 30 days ago

Almost done with the topper. Nothing fancy. I purchased the one on Etsy meant for Arcade1up Attack from Mars. It’s just a couple of sheets of plexiglass, but it looks nice. The only issue being that it’s back lit by a single white led strip. I can do better than that.

I back lit it with my own white LED strip connected to the coin door.
I added a green LED strip in front to light the martian also connected to the coin door.
There are two red LED strips to light the cityscape from the front. They are connected to the Stroke of Luck.
The four saucers are connected to the capture lights.
The saucers beams are connected to the roll over lights.
The eyes are LED PCB's connected to the martians eyes of course.

So they all flash in time with the playfield. During a game the beam lights change as you hit the flippers to change the Drain O Beam and the roll overs.

It all works. Just needs some minor adjustment of some of the bulbs and clean up the wiring.

rfm topper etsy (resized).png
#4853 30 days ago
Quoted from Zee:

That was quite the misadventure!
FWIW, I'm using the original WG monitor (new capacitors) with a Nucore computer and the video amplifier and I feel fortunate that it's all working quite well - the display looks like new.

Sadly, I had it right the first try. A dumb mistake made it a chore.

#4854 30 days ago

New version of our pinball 2000 update manager released. Details below

v1.0.5
- More Crash Fixes
- Fixed a bug where the new log file was trying to be updated before it was created
- Fixed an issue where the status info did not update the game version number and other details after the update finished and connect cycle was performed.
- Fixed an issue where stats were broken after v2.23 update because of new recorded values not being included in the default list
- Fixed and issue where stats only were available once per program load

Download from the usual place on our site

https://www.mypinballs.com/software/pinball2000/software_updater.jsp

Free upgrade if you already own a licence

#4855 29 days ago
Quoted from kcirrick:

Almost done with the topper. Nothing fancy. I purchased the one on Etsy meant for Arcade1up Attack from Mars. It’s just a couple of sheets of plexiglass, but it looks nice. The only issue being that it’s back lit by a single white led strip. I can do better than that.
I back lit it with my own white LED strip connected to the coin door.
I added a green LED strip in front to light the martian also connected to the coin door.
There are two red LED strips to light the cityscape from the front. They are connected to the Stroke of Luck.
The four saucers are connected to the capture lights.
The saucers beams are connected to the roll over lights.
The eyes are LED PCB's connected to the martians eyes of course.
So they all flash in time with the playfield. During a game the beam lights change as you hit the flippers to change the Drain O Beam and the roll overs.
It all works. Just needs some minor adjustment of some of the bulbs and clean up the wiring.
[quoted image]

Wait … your saucers in the playfield are roaming!!!??? That’s awesome!

#4856 29 days ago

Just added lighted flippers to the game. Was a tough install to keep the wires out of the way. The only issue is the right one flashes with the playfield lights, the left one stays lit all the time. Ah well though I guess, really only noticeable during attract mode.

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#4857 29 days ago

Well guys,
I thought this was pretty awesome to share.
Today the former chairman of the Dutch pinball club was today here, and he brought me these awesome promo stuff for my rfm!
Have someone ever see this? He said it was gaven to him in England, at a pinball market as promotion stuff!

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#4858 29 days ago
Quoted from dwightheinink:

Well guys,
I thought this was pretty awesome to share.
Today the former chairman of the Dutch pinball club was today here, and he brought me these awesome promo stuff for my rfm!
Have someone ever see this? He said it was gaven to him in England, at a pinball market as promotion stuff!
//<![CDATA[
window.__mirage2 = {petok:"4eb7d30db01e1e4ac6fc4b992a0cee252e0e603f-1631982610-1800"};
//]]>

[quoted image]

I have the keychain

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#4859 29 days ago

If anyone needs a keychain, I have several. Still have a couple network cards too.

#4860 29 days ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

Wait … your saucers in the playfield are roaming!!!??? That’s awesome!

Yeah, I wanted to add the spinning saucers, but I'm late to the RFM game and they no longer seem to be available. I looked at the LED upgrade, but it seemed a little costly and I wanted motion. I ended up making my own one of a kind mod.

I bought a couple of cheap party disco lights from Amazon and cannibalized them for the mechanics tossing everything else including the PCB. They're supposed to run off of 5v USB or 12V. I first tried hooking them up to GI, but the little motors couldn't get enough power so I used the same 5v I had run for the video amplifier. The only problem with that is that they are always on - if that's a problem. I didn't use the disco lights built in LED's as I felt they were much to bright and distracting even when only using one of the three so I just added your typical frosted 555 LED under the dome. I stuck some extensions on the posts above the plastics and mounted the mechanisms to those. I had to futz with them a bit at first, but now they float around just fine.

#4861 27 days ago

Oh man, those look cool! Can you do a video of them with the glass off? It looks like they have an orbit or something, really cool! The motor ones I saw that aren't available anymore just spun, but yours look like they full on hover!

#4862 27 days ago

There seems to be some interest so here is a closer view of the hovering saucer and a crude diagram for anyone interested in duplicating them. (Nobody mention the PCP typo on the diagram. You can see that the wires go down through the playfield where they are then run to the five volts. Both the LED bulb and the motor run off of the five volts. The now empty bulb socket I used to add the slingshot spotlights that the prototype doesn’t have. I have ordered a little Leaning Tower of Pisa and Eiffel Tower which I will place in the location where the saucers originally attached to kind of hide it. This is what I bought and cannibalized:

amazon.com link »

If you see the saucer do a little shake, that’s the disco lights LED PCB which is loosely attached to an arm that attaches to the motor. The PCB is just used as a platform to set the saucer on. The saucer sits on this PCB which was not intended for the weight or the angle, but there is no stress and it works fine. Besides being too bright, the LED's on the PCB didn’t seem to be able to handle the direct five volts so I used that 555 bulb. It’s the wires to the bulb that keep the saucer from spinning – exactly how the disco light worked. I would have liked for the motor to be smaller, but it’s what I had so I made it work.

I’m satisfied with the end result and it’s not a permanent mod of course so you can easily go back to stock anytime. It’s an easy project. The trick is, when running wires to the bulb they can’t be too tight or have too much slack. Too tight and the motor can’t go round and/or the wire will break. Too loose and the wire will wrap around the shaft stopping the motor or breaking the wire. I found using the shrink tubing stiffened things up.

crude (resized).png
#4863 27 days ago

Here is both saucers with the glass off.

#4864 27 days ago
Quoted from kcirrick:

Here is both saucers with the glass off.

so dang cool!

#4865 27 days ago

That may be the coolest homemade mod I have ever seen. Nice work

#4866 26 days ago

Awesome! Thank you for the videos and diagram! Ingenious!

#4867 26 days ago

Thanks folks! I guess this is a prototype for my prototype RFM. I may tinker with it a bit more. I'm thinking of putting those color changing bulbs under the dome. I'm curious to see how they look.

#4868 26 days ago
Quoted from kcirrick:

Thanks folks! I guess this is a prototype for my prototype RFM. I may tinker with it a bit more. I'm thinking of putting those color changing bulbs under the dome. I'm curious to see how they look.

A slip ring power connector might be what you need.

#4869 26 days ago

A what? Okay, I looked it up. Your making my head ache. That would be a great solution for a spinning saucer, but I’m not sure how it would improve what I’ve done with the saucers orbiting on the end of an armature without spinning. To power the LED bulb I simply mimicked the design of the little disco lights that I cannibalized. I know the wires for the bulb are hanging from the edge of the saucer. I could move them closer to the center of the saucer, but there is no need as they aren’t visible when you are playing the game. If I had been aware of slip rings before starting the project, I probably would have bought them along with little 5 volt motors and built spinning saucers from scratch that plug right into the 555 socket similar to the spinning saucers that can no longer be purchased. As it is, I’m glad I didn’t know because I like the way my saucers hover.

I do appreciate the suggestion though. It’s something I can keep in mind for future projects. I’ve been contemplating building a flying lit up F-14 for my F-14 Tomcat. Have it fly around in circles when the beacons go off or something. Now that I have a RFM it might be more fun to do a flying saucer though I’m not sure how I would trigger it. Perhaps rig it in place of or in tandem with a shaker motor. Just something on the back burner.

#4870 25 days ago

My fluorescent tube has given up... I'll zip tie 1 or 2 led strips directly on the existing broken tube.

Where is the easiest place for me to source 12V dc up there ?

Thanks
Matt

#4871 25 days ago
Quoted from Flippermatt:

My fluorescent tube has given up... I'll zip tie 1 or 2 led strips directly on the existing broken tube.
Where is the easiest place for me to source 12V dc up there ?
Thanks
Matt

Proper replacement bulb is just a couple bucks. It also could be the starter that is the issue and not the bulb and that is also a couple bucks. If the ballast is bad, that could be about $20 or so. Had to replace the ballast in a recent Spiderman pick up.

#4872 25 days ago

Okay, I had about 15 minutes to check out my monitor situation. A couple of months ago the image went out (nothing seemed odd prior to that, bright, crisp image, WG 6534744 crt monitor). You can play the game fine blind. It sounded like the monitor was trying to fire up every few seconds.

A few days later turned it on and for a brief moment I had an image, then nothing again. So I pulled the machine out and checked the vga cable to the computer and looked at the crt, looked fine. Fired it up, same thing, couldn't tell if there was static because there was smoke drifting up off the board that connects to the neck of the tube.

I pulled the monitor out and tried hooking up a 4:3 lcd monitor. I got a video input error saying image was out of range. So I swapped out for a newer wide screen monitor and the screen flashes black, white and color bars. I thought at least one of the monitors would auto sync to the signal. Is there a way to test the signal without buying the converter board to go from cga to vga? I plan on getting the monitor fixed, if that's the issue, but the turnaround time is around 2 months and would hate that the smoke was just a stink bug getting its just desserts... =p

The game still boots up fine, how should I rule out a bad video card? Both fans on the computer work (the one leading out of the case and the one on the motherboard), the battery on the motherboard looks good and expires 2023. I've attached a few pics if ya'll see something glaringly wrong.

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#4873 25 days ago

Pull out the prism card and book up vga monitor. You should het normal text screen in vga.

#4874 25 days ago
Quoted from erikie:

Pull out the prism card and book up vga monitor. You should het normal text screen in vga.

Thank u!

#4875 25 days ago
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:

Proper replacement bulb is just a couple bucks. It also could be the starter that is the issue and not the bulb and that is also a couple bucks. If the ballast is bad, that could be about $20 or so. Had to replace the ballast in a recent Spiderman pick up.

Problem is I'm in Europe and we're all 220v here. Cannot find tube, starter or ballast here with 110v

#4876 25 days ago
Quoted from Flippermatt:

Problem is I'm in Europe and we're all 220v here. Cannot find tube, starter or ballast here with 110v

If you can't source the parts, just use a cheap under cabinet LED light (A typical replacement for arcade marquee lights as its cheaper than a replacement bulb).

I have used something like this from Walmart (One I bought recently for a slot machine was $7), you must have something similar there: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-700-Lumen-12-LED-Under-Cabinet-Light-Linkable/465517393

#4877 25 days ago
Quoted from Flippermatt:

Problem is I'm in Europe and we're all 220v here. Cannot find tube, starter or ballast here with 110v

Weird. So, even the EU export games had the stateside voltage parts. I use places like bulbtronics and 1000bulbs and order a bunch at a time. I have several from when I used to have a bunch of arcade games. And since my 2 new Stern additions used the 24 inch tubes, I bought a case of those too, lol.

#4878 24 days ago
Quoted from Irishbastard:

If you can't source the parts, just use a cheap under cabinet LED light (A typical replacement for arcade marquee lights as its cheaper than a replacement bulb).
I have used something like this from Walmart (One I bought recently for a slot machine was $7), you must have something similar there: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-700-Lumen-12-LED-Under-Cabinet-Light-Linkable/465517393

That is my idea... Question is where do I conveniently source the 12 V dc ?

#4879 24 days ago
Quoted from Flippermatt:

That is my idea... Question is where do I conveniently source the 12 V dc ?

The type I linked use 110v so it can be spliced into the wiring from the old light.

There should be a spare connection coming off the Power Supply for the computer in the head. Plug into that, tap the yellow wire for 12v.

#4880 22 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Is there any interest in continued stock of these Chrome Saucers?
I'll be doing another group buy mid-Sept; but it's unclear if I should order anymore of these.

I ordered another batch from Pinball.Center... They along with a few Large Saucers are now in stock:
http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/small-saucer-p-78.html
That said Large saucers are for AFM - NOT RFM.

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#4881 21 days ago

Well, I removed my hovering saucers and changed my RFM back to (almost) stock. I knew the machine was a prototype, but the lack of serial numbers was an enigma. I’ve been in contact with a PIN 2000 expert who got in contact with a former PIN 2000 lead developer. The developer had this to say:

"It was not uncommon for developer prototypes (1-3 machines) not to have serial number stickers. These machines were likely to have any number of variations from the initial MEL and then production games. It all depended on when parts became available. Some playfields were assembled upstairs in the development area by the mechanical engineer and prototype shop people. If the game started there, ending up in a developer's office, it would not have a serial number."

I also mentioned to my contact how I was unable to install the six ball trough upgrade and was told that that might be a good thing considering how special this machine is and that I might want to keep it as close to original as possible.

I did leave the video amplifier installed, (which it needed), as well as the two spotlights I added which are easily removed. I was considering a shaker, but remembering how the game wasn’t compatible with the six ball trough upgrade there is no guarantee that a shaker would work on this machine and I don’t want to make any more modification now anyway.

In the future, my contact will be in contact with additional developers and can hopefully find out more information. Wouldn’t it be great to know who had built this unique game and who took it home?

I knew I had over paid for the game. Then I verified that it really was a prototype and was comfortable with it. Now that it looks to be a very unique machine even for a prototype – one of at most three – I’m pretty excited about having it. It could even be the sole survivor.

#4882 19 days ago

Just bought a RFM a couple weeks ago. Loving the game!

#4883 18 days ago
Quoted from kcirrick:

was told that that might be a good thing considering how special this machine is and that I might want to keep it as close to original as possible.

This kind of bs kinda pisses me off.

I get it; it's a prototype... but it's YOUR GAME.
I personally would feel 100% conformable modifying your game... as long as the modifications are reversible and it makes the game better for YOU.

It does not sound like any of the "changes" you did to the machine warranted the "horror" that people seemed to voice about the changes.

A game you will play because you made improvements is better than a prototype paper weight that just collects dust.

#4884 18 days ago
Quoted from kcirrick:

Well, I removed my hovering saucers and changed my RFM back to (almost) stock. I knew the machine was a prototype, but the lack of serial numbers was an enigma. I’ve been in contact with a PIN 2000 expert who got in contact with a former PIN 2000 lead developer. The developer had this to say:
"It was not uncommon for developer prototypes (1-3 machines) not to have serial number stickers. These machines were likely to have any number of variations from the initial MEL and then production games. It all depended on when parts became available. Some playfields were assembled upstairs in the development area by the mechanical engineer and prototype shop people. If the game started there, ending up in a developer's office, it would not have a serial number."
I also mentioned to my contact how I was unable to install the six ball trough upgrade and was told that that might be a good thing considering how special this machine is and that I might want to keep it as close to original as possible.
I did leave the video amplifier installed, (which it needed), as well as the two spotlights I added which are easily removed. I was considering a shaker, but remembering how the game wasn’t compatible with the six ball trough upgrade there is no guarantee that a shaker would work on this machine and I don’t want to make any more modification now anyway.
In the future, my contact will be in contact with additional developers and can hopefully find out more information. Wouldn’t it be great to know who had built this unique game and who took it home?
I knew I had over paid for the game. Then I verified that it really was a prototype and was comfortable with it. Now that it looks to be a very unique machine even for a prototype – one of at most three – I’m pretty excited about having it. It could even be the sole survivor.

Regarding overpaying.

Don’t beat yourself up to much. If you are enjoying the game and don’t miss the money, then to you it’s worth that much.

I almost bought it myself as I am quite a fan of most of the creators. (But my wife draws the line at 2 of the same exact pin). My plans would have been to attempt all the same upgrades as you.

Whatever you decide to do with it, make sure YOU enjoy it.

#4885 18 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

This kind of bs kinda pisses me off.
I get it; it's a prototype... but it's YOUR GAME.
I personally would feel 100% conformable modifying your game... as long as the modifications are reversible and it makes the game better for YOU.
It does not sound like any of the "changes" you did to the machine warranted the "horror" that people seemed to voice about the changes.
A game you will play because you made improvements is better than a prototype paper weight that just collects dust.

I agree.

#4886 18 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

This kind of bs kinda pisses me off.
I get it; it's a prototype... but it's YOUR GAME.
I personally would feel 100% conformable modifying your game... as long as the modifications are reversible and it makes the game better for YOU.
It does not sound like any of the "changes" you did to the machine warranted the "horror" that people seemed to voice about the changes.
A game you will play because you made improvements is better than a prototype paper weight that just collects dust.

While it's his machine, and he can do as he pleases, I gather the point is to not diminish the value of it. Being a prototype is interesting for some collectors, who may be willing to pay a premium for it. But not if you paint it black.

"as long as the modifications are reversible" is the key takeaway here. Whatever modifications he does, as long as they can be removed and all the original parts are kept with the machine, I don't see an issue.

#4887 18 days ago
Quoted from mdeslaur:

While it's his machine, and he can do as he pleases, I gather the point is to not diminish the value of it. Being a prototype is interesting for some collectors, who may be willing to pay a premium for it. But not if you paint it black.
"as long as the modifications are reversible" is the key takeaway here. Whatever modifications he does, as long as they can be removed and all the original parts are kept with the machine, I don't see an issue.

I know this isn’t a popular opinion, but as long as the machine is legally in his possession I don’t see an issue with him doing absolutely anything he wants with it.

If someone else wanted to perfectly preserve it and it’s value, they should have bought it on eBay when they had the chance.

He is under no obligation or duty (unless self imposed) to handle His property, special for anyone. They put zero skin in the game.

#4888 18 days ago
Quoted from dashv:

I know this isn’t a popular opinion, but as long as the machine is legally in his possession I don’t see an issue with him doing absolutely anything he wants with it.
If someone else wanted to perfectly preserve it and it’s value, they should have bought it on eBay when they had the chance.
He is under no obligation or duty (unless self imposed) to handle His property, special for anyone. They put zero skin in the game.

Sure, but if he wants it to preserve its value, he can't do anything he wants to it. If he doesn't care about how much it's worth, he can paint it black and set fire to it if he wants.

#4889 18 days ago
Quoted from mdeslaur:

Sure, but if he wants it to preserve its value, he can't do anything he wants to it. If he doesn't care about how much it's worth, he can paint it black and set fire to it if he wants.

Again, This is between him and his future buyer.
Honestly; we have no business pressuring him either way.
I personally find it very disrespectful for anyone to be telling him what to do with his game.

#4890 18 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Again, This is between him and his future buyer.
Honestly; we have no business pressuring him either way.
I personally find it very disrespectful for anyone to be telling him what to do with his game.

I totally agree.

#4891 18 days ago
Quoted from dashv:

I know this isn’t a popular opinion, but as long as the machine is legally in his possession I don’t see an issue with him doing absolutely anything he wants with it.
If someone else wanted to perfectly preserve it and it’s value, they should have bought it on eBay when they had the chance.
He is under no obligation or duty (unless self imposed) to handle His property, special for anyone. They put zero skin in the game.

I have a car in my garage and has been sitting for 18 years. The classic line is one day I will get to it, I have said it many times. So go buy some other car or one like mine. But leave me and my car alone and STFU.

#4892 17 days ago

Sorry; I really shouldn't have a dog in this race.

I just hate that people get "suggested" to do something they weren't doing and change behaviors when it wasn't a problem to begin with. Modding a machine without changing it irreversibly isn't a Sin at all... and shouldn't be suggested as such.

Now back to the regularly scheduled program... applejuice what's next ;D

#4893 17 days ago

Seeking PINBALL 2000 LCD MOUNTING KIT #50069-GLM, but it's out of stock at marco and no response from Great Lakes Modular, whose website seems out of date. Does anyone know whether and where this bracket is available or have any other mounting solutions for a 20" LCD?

#4894 17 days ago
Quoted from JOESCHALL:

Seeking PINBALL 2000 LCD MOUNTING KIT #50069-GLM, but it's out of stock at marco and no response from Great Lakes Modular, whose website seems out of date. Does anyone know whether and where this bracket is available or have any other mounting solutions for a 20" LCD?

I made a kit for awhile for conversions here in the uk, that looks like this. I think i still have a few left. The metal bracket does the job nicely

A59892F7-E5D4-48E1-806D-5B4804CCCD10 (resized).jpeg639719E6-BF3B-46B9-B255-C1A8ADC4F1EB (resized).jpeg2EC9B79E-4CC7-4558-9EEE-587ABF071525 (resized).jpeg

#4895 17 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

applejuice what's next ;D

more new & original graphics inc. new backgrounds for variation of existing modes and to add extra depth to the game

we are reaching the limit of space though on original hardware now. If only the prism card had 8mb of flash instead of 4!

#4896 17 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

I made a kit for awhile for conversions here in the uk, that looks like this. I think i still have a few left. The metal bracket does the job nicely

Cool. PM sent.

#4897 17 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

we are reaching the limit of space though on original hardware now. If only the prism card had 8mb of flash instead of 4!

Sounds like a kit upgrade.

#4898 16 days ago

I am a-ok with 2 tiers of rfm mars versions. 4mb and 8mb. Put me on the 8mb list!

#4899 16 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

more new & original graphics inc. new backgrounds for variation of existing modes and to add extra depth to the game
we are reaching the limit of space though on original hardware now. If only the prism card had 8mb of flash instead of 4!

When I look at the schematics of the prism board it should be possible to remove the flash chip and solder a bigger version on it.
pin 6 is now NC and on its bigger flash brother connected to A22 (Which is also listed on the schematic of williams.) So now looking for an 28F640J5 chip to replace on the prism card would be the solution.
Your code must take the CMOS area into consideration as that is placed at a fixed location at the end of the flash rom but you probably know this already and can change this in the source code ...
edit:
Just ordered a couple of these 64mbit flash chips. Lets see what happens
I have to put back the other flash chip anyway (needed to dump its contents) so soldering another one should be no big deal.

#4900 16 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

more new & original graphics inc. new backgrounds for variation of existing modes and to add extra depth to the game
we are reaching the limit of space though on original hardware now. If only the prism card had 8mb of flash instead of 4!

Interesting advantage for Pinbox users.

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