Monitor type.
If DuckScan; Do Cap Kit stat.
Probably good idea to do it anyway.

Thanks- tried it again with the coin door closed or manually depressing the close door switch and it didn't change at all. Getting power to monitor and backlight, computer is on, but game isn't starting.

This is after reinstalling the playfield and connecting everything.

Where do I start?

Check the door switch / wires

The LED are documented here
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_2000_Repair#LED_Indicators
All LEDs 4-7 and 11-14 are normally off when the coin door is open.
are powered through a K1 relay (when coin door is closed) via +50 TP3 LED9 F110
The K1 relay is powered by +12 vdc LED 16 GREEN LED. TP 5 F108

https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=4446
Operations Manual (February 1999
Coin Door Switch matrix is on page 2-47 / 3-4
BLK·RED J113-2 U49-5

Does anyone know what partnumber the hex spacer on top of the left slingshot is, the one that supports the ramp?
Got the wrong size on it, and I can't seem to find the correct ones for sale in the Netherlands

Just got a RFM and noticed that a mouse chewed some of the DB25 cable. Can someone tell me what would I need for a replacement part? I am guessing it's a 10ft DB25 male to female parallel cable. Is this correct?

That is correct. Standard DB25 to DB25 Nothing fancy at all.

The caps on my motherboard are bulging and I don't have the skill to attempt the repair. Where can I send it for capacitor replacement?

Borygard

Correct. The only answer. Do not attempt to repair yourself if you haven't the skills/equipment

I just purchased a RFM and everything works perfectly except the test mode button. it has the lcd conversion if that makes any difference. It also has a minimum volume(when you try to turn it down).... i tried shorting the switch, which works for the credit, volume up, and volume down buttons but not for the enter test mode button. all the connectors look great. (I've also tried pushing both volume up and down at the same time) what am a missing??

On mine the connections on the test buttons were fine but a wire had broken just inside the coin door. It wasn't obvious - I had to test for continuity to find it.

Ok - new at this and a bunch of questions as I try to restore my machine. For starters:
1) My power supply doesn't seem to have any issues but it looks to be original. It seems that everyone suggests replacing it. Why? What happens if the power supply fails? Is there a reason I can't wait to replace it?

2) My monitor isn't the usual WG or Ducksan - it's an Intervideo VP20. I've tracked down a manual (http://www.andysarcade.de/data/coinop/videogames/raster%20monitors/intervideo/intervideo_vp_series.pdf)
but I'm unclear what this means for finding a cap kit and installing the video amp. I've found this cap kit that looks like it will work. Is there any quality difference I need to worry about between cap kits?
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/components/capacitors/intervideo-vp-series-monitor-cap-kit-105c-nichicon/

Thanks!

Looking for a decent machine if anyone is looking to get out of the club

1. With respect to the power supply and anything (including the mother board) where electrolytic caps are used. The era when these were manufactured ... the consensus is that the electrolytic caps are destined to fail. You have this situation with your mother board. If you don’t experience weird resets or odd behavior... you don’t necessarily have to replace it. You may find that once you start using it regularly it may fail. You can’t tell if there is anything wrong by simply looking at it either. I’m not certain what the failure mode of these supplies are ... hopefully it’s not over voltage .. in which case a failing supply could cause downstream failures. Replacing it is cheap insurance.

I would make certain however that your CPU fan and cooler are solid. This is really important for the longevity of the CPU. I would remove, clean and replace the cpu cooler out of caution. The old one likely has crusty thermal compound and may not be doing it’s job. Mine was “upgraded” by someone and they didn’t clean the old compound off so the CPU was not making good contact with the heat sink. This could have caused a permanent failure had I not taken the time to check and replace it.

2. That cap kit is fine. Cap kits are another best practice ... but not alway necessary. Again ... frequent use after long periods of idle time can cause failures to begin to happen.

3. The video amp is a must. I would do this before anything. The logic level coming out of the main video board is slightly lower than what the monitor needs... causing a dim picture.

He is not using one of the original monitors, so this may not be an issue in his case. For example, I am using a Kortek monitor, and it has no problem with the video levels. I can get proper brightness/contrast adjusted without an amplifier.

Ahh good point.

Motherboard is already safely with Borygard so everything there should be good. The CPU cooler had been replaced so it looks like new but they didn't bother replacing the original square thermal tape or whatever was under it so I replaced it with thermal paste. I've also picked up a new fan (thanks @nwpinball)

Sounds like I should drop $50 on a replacement power supply. Hoping I can find an AT one that is plug and play.

My monitor isn't as bright as it should be so it's either a cap kit (and then possibly the video amp) or just the video amp. I'm not clear on how I determine what to do given my non-standard monitor.

Are these more difficult to repair than a standard pinball machine? I like to repair my machines myself, but these machines look a lot different than a standard pinball machine. It looks like a really fun pinball machine.

im going to test from the button to the board on the left of the board. but im worried it is beyond that.

Can you access the test menus with a keyboard attached to the computer?

I'll be selling once I get it 100% if you are close to tx. LCD screen and 100% functional, except the "enter test mode" button lol

Anyone have extras of the 1/4"-20 1" long black hex socket drive button head screws for the cabinet head? I need 2 and haven't been able to find them either from Marcos, etc. or at my local hardware stores. Happy to pay shipping and whatnot. Otherwise, all I can find are 100 packs online for $20. Seems like overkill

Interested for sure

Athena Power AP-AT30 300W AT Power Supply 6Pin P8 6pin P9 Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042P2IIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GH3775SMHTWXHB8YPP6B

Same as normal pin except the CPU board is basically a PC which is not really user serviceable. The monitor is also best left to experts

Thanks - that's the exact one I had in my cart

Now fingers crossed for good news from Borygard. Apparently my motherboard isn't booting for him so something must have happened when I removed it or during shipping. Praying I don't have to find/pay for another...

Worst fears are confirmed. Borygard passed along the bad news - apparently the board had previously been repaired and was in horrible condition. He was shocked it ever worked. Replacing the caps didn't get it to boot and he deems it unrecoverable. I'm thinking RFM wasn't the best pin to pick as my first restoration...

Any leads on a good motherboard? Thanks.

Sorry to hear that; I don't have a spare for myself - much less anyone else.
Maybe someone has a left over from a pinbox conversion.

I would built a nucore machine and put in an LCD monitor. Then you are covered for the coming years. It is not too hard and you can use a modern mainboard for it. I am using a pci-e lpt card

I'll be listing my game for sale this weekend and if the buyer doesn't want the original PC (I'm using pinbox and LED monitor), I'll let you know. Def needs a new CPU fan and I can tell at least one cap has to be replaced.

Northwest Powder Solutions in Kent. They have done The Lost World Jurassic Park rails/legs/hinges/lockbar (metal flake green) and my playfield rotisserie (blueberry crackle). They typically take about 3 weeks and are very reasonably priced. I'm headed down there today or tomorrow to pickup my Baywatch wireforms that they did a brass-colored powder-coat on.

https://www.northwestpowdersolutions.com/

I have various spare motherboards and parts. I’ll check tomorrow. Think it’s at least 3. I’m in uk though as most people know

Is RFM dimensionally similar to stanadard pinball? I know the head box is much larger to accommodate the CRT but does it have a traditional sized cabinet and playfield?

Standard width cabinet but slightly shorter playfield and cab.

The playfield seems way shorter, probably because of the darkness and/or the monitor overhanging it, but it’s really not significantly different from other games of the era. Here’s an interesting photo (not sure who to credit with this comparison, just found the photo online)...

CF3D4C09-EF13-474F-9770-6BDDCAFB1173 (resized).jpeg

The cab is shorter only because there is no backbox behind it.

If I recall correctly, the dimensions were determined by shipping costs/restrictions. I get the notion the game "feels"/looks smaller, but for shots and immersion the game is far from lacking. I do wish the translite/backbox was bigger though.

Do you by chance have a measurement from front to rear? I’m getting ready to pick this game up from a local operator and need to see about how long it is. I’d ask him but the game is in the back of his storage and we are going to have to dig it out

From RFM’s page here on Pinside: “The cabinet dimensions are: 45"H x 48"D x 22"W; backbox dimensions are: 28"H x 23.5"D x 24"W.”

I hope that’s accurate. I assume the height is with legs on.

Where are ya’ll finding the adapters to hook these into the power supply?

I went to upgrade my RFMs (I have 2) and can’t plug em in.

The cab is 48” front to rear, but with the legs on (since they flare out) the required space is ~51”.

mattosborn thanks

How much additional power can the light circuits handle? I am working on a custom topper and my original thought was to have some LED's as they take almost no power but Isince the pulsing lights on the playfield is one of the iconic parts of RVM, I thought it would be cool to have some lights in the topper that brighten and fade also. For instance, a red and green light that are wired to different sources so as the bulbs brighten and fade the light would change color.

My thought was to simply solder wires to a couple of sockets and run them up to the topper so the lights up there would be in sync, but now I am worried about the extra draw. Would a 3 or 4 additional #44 bulbs put too much strain on whatever circuit they were connected to?

Not sure about current draw but be aware you can't just add sockets. ALL the lights (including GI) on a Pin2k are matrixed. If you just add a socket(LED or incandescent doesn't matter) in parallel without a diode you will short rows/columns. I'm also not sure what effect having extra sockets/diodes in parallel will have on the matrix. Parallel connections have interesting effects on resistance values - not sure about what it does to the effectiveness of diodes in this kind of circuit. Maybe someone with an electrical engineering background can chime in...

I bought this about 10 years back on eBay for $100. Also got a MB sheet. I’ve never seen uncut sheets since then.
Trying to figure out a value and sell it. Thought this would be a good group to ask. Obviously only good for wall art. Anybody have an opinion ?

5AE07DEB-28E7-45DF-AC59-8E07F899E6EC (resized).jpeg

BEC908EE-3CB0-4610-B928-6F3B17C2689C (resized).jpeg

Thanks for the info. I am trying to keep it simple, not wire across 2 different lights as I know they are circuit controlled. I should probably just keep it totally separate just to be safe.....its too bad as when things like multi-ball hits and everything is flashing it would be cool

Even if you wire just 1 extra socket to an existing bulb it will short the row and column that lamp is on. Believe me I know. I had to un-mess up a game I got where the previous owner wired a small LED strip to one lamp socket. Not only was that light now shorted on all the time but all the lamps on that row & column were messed up and turning on when they shouldn't.

Dang. Thanks for the info.

Does anyone make mirror blades for RFM? What is everyone using for leds?? I'm about to convert a RFM to leds and would love to hear and see your results before I get into it. Thanks for any advice!

Just joined the club last night. Bought it from the original owner who bought it new in 99. It spent a year on route, but other than that, was home use only. Not perfect, but very nice. In the process of doing my usual shopping/cleaning. Monitor is original, bright and crisp. Software is 1.0. Owner never updated past the shipped software. Looking forward to exploring the new 2.23 update.