I think something is wrong with my RFM: the left ramp is a lot higher then the right ramp.
What size hex spacers should be below those ramps?
And are the spotlights supposed to be directly on top of the ramps, or am I missing a hex spacer there too?

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I just purchased a 5/8" one for the back right ramp, but you may just want to get a couple as you also don't have any spacers on your spotlights for your martians, I mean it's all personal preference, but I have two there... 20210320_093938 (resized).jpg

Lol, I added a feature called ‘power drain’ into Martian multiball as a nod to the great work in Dialed In by jjp on flipper attacks during multiball. Did you think there was a fault in dialed in to??

Please always read the update notes here:

https://www.mypinballs.com/software/rfm/code_updates.jsp

Before updating. Power drain was added as an option in v2.22

Your description tells me it’s working nicely and selecting different sides randomly ok to

applejuice
How is it even possible to get a „3“ at the last digit is this some sort of JJP Easter egg? Happened twice on 2.23 code ‍♂️

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You can turn it off in settings if you don’t like it.

Don't think i said it was like weak or no hold flippers?? I said it was like the multiball attack feature on dialed in when the X lamps reach your flippers . I guess you dont know dialed in then.

Anyway, just for info the feature here adds depth to the martian attack mode in that if you destroy the large martian quickly enough then power drain doesn't happen. ie The Martian doesnt have the ability to attack you. You have to keep killing him within the time to stop the power drain.

And of course as mentioned above it is a controlled option via a feature setting.

New SOL awards that give a 10% percentage increase/decrease of score and also the new odd change award. I guess score changes could be rounded to the nearest 10 points

Is there a forum for the new code and how to Install it?

I'm thinking from a scoring perspective it would skew the score for each time it would calculate the decrease % in score, so the error would be cumulative for each time it's re-calculated, wouldn't it be easier to floor the final score to see if there's a match, to the nearest 10'th so in that case the match would happen at 70, and even at 79 it should be floor'd to 70 to make the match make sense to the 10's digit. (Just a thought)

Is the new code any good and easy to install? I bought a rfm that was given to one of the original pin 2000 software designers and would like to update it to the new code if it’s good

You know how there is always a "but" code is not to hard to install. My but was ribbon cable was on my motherboard backwards. Took me a bit to figure out the issue.

So code might be relatively easy to install but your pin might have oddities from the factory.

Is there instructions somewhere to install?

Yes the new code from applejuice is very good, definitely install it. So many great features and fixes, worth it for the auto ball launch alone.

Start here https://www.mypinballs.com/
He has a newer tool for installs on the site. Pretty sure that is the recommended way.

I went old school https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/revenge-from-mars-pin-2000-software-update-tutorial

applejuice 's code is the bomb... IE read good stuff.
I haven't updated in several revisions... I need to do that one of these days.

Hey everyone - new to the club as of this month! I read through all 92 pages of posts before introducing myself to try and avoid asking any stupid/already answered questions (although if someone had told me that 50+ pages of the 92 would be a debate between CRTs and LCDs, I would have skipped it CRT for life, baby!)

Mine is a German manufactured machine that spent most of its life in arcades in Italy. Recently reimported and seems to have passed through at least two people before ending up with me. It needs a full restore - CRT cap kit, damaged inserts, wrecked cabinet art, filthy circuit boards, new legs and bolts, etc. - so I have my work cut out for me. This will be my first pin restoration so lots to learn.

I have the video amp ready to install after a cap kit, have confirmed that someone updated the CPU fan/cooler, and am working on replacing the batteries. I'm only running v1.5 but I think I'll wait to update the software until I have the machine cleaned and running smoothly. First restore, then improve

Questions I would love help with:
1) Anyone local in Seattle that people would recommend for powder-coating?
2) My monitor is neither the WG or the Ducksan. It is an Intervideo VP20. Anyone have experience with them? I need to find, and then install, a cap kit. Will the video amp work with this monitor??
3) My ramp flap needs to be replaced. Can I just use my basic manual pop-rivet tool?

That will get me started. Much more to come...

Thanks!

Cool purchase. Who did you buy the game from and how come they decided to sell it?

Installing the code is done in the same way as any other pin2k update. You can search in this thread for examples on how to do it. I also made a new update program so that you can use modern computers (Mac and win10) to update from to

https://www.mypinballs.com/software/pinball2000/software_updater.jsp

The rfm game updates you can read the full change/update log so far here to see if you like what I’ve done. There are many new features and modes not just minor tweaks.

https://www.mypinballs.com/software/rfm/code_updates.jsp

Here is who’s pin it was.

Thanks, I’ll look to update it!

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Do I have to buy a license?

What a cool find!
Does the machine not have a serial number or what does the according text on the shipping paper mean?

Nope, no serial numbers on it or standard Bally’s stickers from production that they put on the back of the cab or on the inside

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I’m updating it tomorrow. I ordered the cord. Do I need to have a 6 ball trough opto to do it or not?

The 6 ball trough is an optional upgrade. The software will run fine with 4 balls and auto detects the new hardware. Shakers and real knockers are also options once you upgrade to

To use my new update manager program yes, to download game software updates no

If you use the game software updates please donate to help support future updates and this project generally

.

Hello Guys
Thanks a lot for the information about the update process, will try definley a lower speed on next update, at least now i know that if update fails, will not end with a bricked machine, it rolls back to the 0.80v, it´s good to know that.
A special thanks to applejuice to make the RFM family much more happy, with his incredible updates !

Thanks a lot
Marcos

I purchased the licensce and input the key but I cant get it to connect to the game. Is there something else I need to do????

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What type of usb to serial leads are you using and have you checked inside the machine computer itself to make sure the com1 ribbon is not on backwards to the motherboard?

The program is loaded and showing the update in the list so you've got passed the first step.

I did check and it’s connected but I didn’t look at the mother board. Just made sure it was plugged in. How do I know it’s right? It’s running 1.5 now

Here is what I bought

USB to RS232 Adapter with PL2303... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769DVQM1

As I was saying on private email (before I realised you were asking in 2 places) you need a null modem lead which is a crossover lead and a serial to usb lead. I don’t know what the one you linked is actually wired like but might not be crossed over.

I normally recommend getting separate leads to not all in one as they work better and that’s what I have listed on my site to help avoid these problems

You need a null modem type, crosswired... Like this..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07DRHB264

This is what I bought. I thought this was correct? Please let me know as I don’t see any difference

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I bought 3 different ones claiming to be a null crosswired cable. The one I posted actually works. Don't see anything about the one you posted that said cross-wired or null modem

Visually you can't tell the difference. It doesn't work then you know. There is no visually discernible difference between a standard serial cable and a null modem cable

But the connectors are wired different internally.

Exactly. Just trying to simplify it. On a USB to serial cable it's not easy to buzz out the wires to see if the cable is standard or crosswired.

This will convert a standard serial cable to a null cable.

https://www.amazon.com/female-slimline-transfer-serial-adapter/dp/B075XHWVSJ/

Ok, I ordered this one. I guess I’ll wait until Tuesday to update. Bummer, I was hoping to play it this weekend

Thanks for the help!

Yeah I feel your pain. I was in the same boat over a year ago.

If the connector for updating at the coin door does not work, try to plug it in directly in the pc. Coin door did not work for me, pc did

My game has (apart from a few other things I need to fix) a problem that I do not understand.

The display has got horizontal lines that you can see best when the screen is bright (so in system menu for example). What can I do about this? It is difficult to see on the photo, but better visible when in front of the machine.

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Looks like raytrace lines. This can be cause by a couple things. Bad grounding or the flyback is set to high on the brightness. Could also be the flyback itself.
I don't have a CRT in mine so I don't know where the flyback adjustment is on this monitor.

I got the 6 ball ramp to work, and the Stern/Williams Hybrid Knocker (Stern Plunger with Williams coil for looks) Both were 800's although the brackets have different spacing, so not 1 swap out unless you want a lot less travel than from the Williams one.
Shaker has been working top notch.

All 3 are amazing additions. Highly recommended if you can get the Firmware updated.

Hey guys, I’m new here but I’m getting ready to grab my 2nd pin and it will be RFM. Friend of mine is a route operator and has had it in his garage for years and I talked him out of it. It appears that even when it was in use it didn’t get much play time. Is there anything I need to check right out of the gate? Any concerns with software? I have no clue what version of code it has in it.

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i just found a rare video from the original RfM Extra Ball animation...

Just want to share it, poor quality...

Awesome

Starting the restore on my RFM. Took apart the flipper mechs and they have metal sleeves? Did this used to be common? I presume I can replace them with plastic ones? Thanks.

Metal sleeves are not correct... feel free to swap them out with the correct plastic ones.

Thanks - thought so. Why would anyone use a metal sleeve on a flipper coil? Seems expensive if nothing else.

Cleaned the PCBs - they were absolutely filthy. Pretty sure they had never been cleaned in the 22 years this machine has existed. Applied thermal paste, reattached the CPU heatsink, and will be replacing the fan this weekend.

Question - what do the LEDs on the board indicate? After reassembling everything and turning it on, half the LEDs on the board are lit up and half aren't. Do the LEDs show fuses that are out? I believe the LEDs were all on beforehand. I pulled the fuses to clean the PCB but didn't clean them - just reseated. Note - the playfield is out of the cabinet and not connected. Are the playfield connectors being detached what the LEDs are indicating? Sorry - totally new at this. Thanks!

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The led shows that the circuit is under power. You have the coin door open so high power is off. If you pull the white switch at the left side of the coin door you will see all leds burning