Marco carries the ramp flap for like $8. You do need to be able to rivet it in though, I used a pop riveter for mine, which works fine, but doesn't quite look stock.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-15141

Where are there batteries on this game? Are the AA? I just got a Revenge not that long ago and I thought I looked for batteries but if I missed them please let me know.

I think mine was going bad too. Are they the 40 by 10 mm ones? Here's a five pack I was looking at: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0757LXKST/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_C-iQFbWRJQK2R

There is a CR2032 on the main board and a CR2335 on the Prism board.

Two sets of batteries IIRC.
One on the motherboard (coin cell).
The other is on the prism card ... I heard it was coin cell.

No worries. I carry the exact fan/heatsink unit with correct plug for the motherboard but I won’t be as cheap as amazon. I mentioned it in case there were other things I make the guy wanted so shipping could be combined as I am in uk. Back to coding...

No, close, but the size is slightly different, this one fits perfectly. And you will have 4 extras to give away like me
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GX8L4K8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

Thank you! Ordered.

Wondering if anyone can help me with this..

My RFM runs fine on the original PC.

However, I am setting up a Nucore/Pinbox computer (with ArcadeVGA) to run my RFM with the original CRT. Game runs fine but I am having resolution issues. The visuals are running at 640x480 but the CRT (and game) is meant to be at 640x240. I get an over-stretched/folded over image. Runs fins on a LCD but I really don't want to swap as my CRT is crisp, super bright, and has zero burn-in.

I need to get this up and running properly since I have a SWEP1 pf on the way and paying 500$ USD for a used SWEP1 prism card is ridiculous...

I know other folks have had the same problem resolved but nobody seems to post the fix they have applied.

I would check the arcade vga card resolution setting, that needs to be changed to 640x240

See here https://www.ultimarc.com/arcadevga-old-installation-page

But doing this in Linux is anyone’s guess. Pinbox/nucore was designed to run on lcd afaik

how did you set everything up?
this setup guide http://www.bigguyspinball.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=17&p=5353#p5353 includes all the scripts needed to switch the nucore install to 15khz.

i guess you can use them with any other install too.

I have the "other" version of Nucore since I can't find a complete official Nucore installation (missing specific Nucore ROMS).

I just can't get it to change resolution. I can boot to the desktop on the installation CD and access the hard drive and edit the scripts. I've tried tweaking the autostart script with the xrandr command but nothing seems to work. It doesn't actually load the script it seems when it starts.

I shouldn't even have to run the 15khz scripts as the VGA port ArcadeVGA ONLY runs at 15khz anyway and has built-in support for 640x240. I just need to force the resolution into 640x240 but can't find how to do it.

xrandr doesn't even work when I quit out of Pinbox to the terminal. says 'cannot load screen' or something like that. Seems like X11 is not loaded at all with the Pinbox version of the Nucore system.

I've just ordered a SWEP1 daughter card. I'll do it the official way I guess. FML

Finally got it running by being persistent. Nucore setup. Followed the instructions from the Nucore forum. Now if I can only get the software update feature to work... SWE1 is on v0.40 on nucore.

Just put the files from within the exe update you want to run (which is a zip) into the root/nucore/update/swep_14/ folder. Delete whats in there to start with or if the update files are already in there just delete the update.bin files to force a reload of the update.

Also this should really be posted on the SWEP1 owner thread

Well the nucore setup runs both. I started with RFM. Which I can’t seem to update either. I had tried what you suggested with the update folder. Nucore just restarts a bunch of times but in the end the software is still the old version.

I also tried with your update program but I kept getting errors (ssh error-2). I was trying through my wired network (Nucore was connected to the router). I then noticed in your support notes you mention a crossover cable but I don't have one. Ordered on Amazon and will try again once it arrives.

Post a picture of what’s in your update/swep1_14 folder.

Also delete your save data .nvram file for swep1 which is in

/root/nucore/roms/savedata/

Already did that(delete nvram). There were no folders in the update folder so I created them. I will take a pic later today of the folder structure and content and add it here.

Nucore also has the ability to update from a USB but I tried 4 different USB sticks formatted to FAT32 as directed and none of them came up as readable by Nucore. And yes I rebooted with the USB stick installed so Linux could mount it before nucore tried to access it. I have direct access to the USB sticks from the file manager so that's a nucore issue.

Not being to update RFM sucks since I have the 6-ball trough setup...

Didn’t you already run the latest rfm updates as you emailed me about some suggestions?, or was that on your original hardware setup?

Most likely you just have something wrong in the folder structure and or a permission issue

I have your 2.23 running on my original hardware.

I had a typo in the update sub-folder. I had named it SWE1_14 instead of SWEP1_14. As well, I only tried updating RFM with your loader and not directly in nucore. I will try both those after work today.

FINALLY!!! SUCCESS!!

It WAS swe1_14 for the folder name. Got it up and running and I see that RFM also updated (generated the update.bin file).

Now just to hook up the amp and I'm set. I know somewhere on Pinside there's instructions to get the horizontal alignment better adjusted. I'm ever so slightly too much to the left and the remote adjustment pot is maxed out.

All done. All working. I can now swap quickly between the 2 games.

In the end here is the list of things I needed/used: My old home theatre computer (with NVMe SSD) and associated power supply, ArcadeVGA card, bracket with external COM and PARALLEL ports that plug into the motherboard, 3 channel audio amp and power supply, 3.5mm to RCA cable, video amp (was already installed on my original hardware), and lot's of patience for the Linux/Nucore setup.

Things I bought that I didn't really need but wanted: NOS SWEP1 and RFM translites from PPS. My RFM translite was cracked and brittle.

Here are the things I bought out of sheer frustration and impatience and that I now have absolutely no use for: 2 x computers (mobo, ram, cpu, ps), 1 computer case, SWEP1 daughter card with ROMS(keeping so I can use with original hardware if I choose to revert), VGA-->CGA converter board.

One of the motherboards IS running Pinbox on a small SSD if anyone is interested. I just couldn't get it to play nice with the CRT but if you want to run a regular monitor it runs fine. Not sure how to update the RFM or SWEP1 software on there though as there is no graphical interface for linux and I suck at it. To get it running you would need a power supply and serial & parallel port connectors (like this https://amzn.to/2UYKtUh ) and a video card if you don't want to use the on-board video. I paid 90$ for this mobo/cpu/ram on eBay. You can have it for the same price + shipping and I'll include the SSD.

Black Friday sale on PRISM tools.....$8 shipped in the US - just PM me....I have about 7 left, first come, first serve....

20201008_082219 (resized).jpg

I have this 19 K7302 wells Gardner monitor, I was told it was recapped and works but The glass part in the 4th picture is broken. I got it with my RFM when I purchased it but I do not need the monitor. What is the piece that is broken and can anybody give me a value on this?

056481DB-93E7-42B7-9BD6-B85C9E486235 (resized).jpeg

718BAA7F-9DC3-4DEE-8B1D-541A2AF7583B (resized).jpeg

9686D4A1-64A6-4207-AEE0-656A5EAF32A9 (resized).jpeg

C05CA8B1-8AEB-47D4-9919-F1B063295CF4 (resized).jpeg

E7AEBBDD-9469-4288-8F56-3470CE5075CA (resized).jpeg

If it’s ‘necked’ ie the glass neck is broken at rear of the tube then the thing is scrap and worth nothing. Somebody might take the chassis board separately but it’s the end of the road for it as a complete monitor unfortunately

Just the tube (the screen itself) is scrap. All other parts are still good. The chassis, flyback, yoke, the frame...all still good. I’d love to have that because I have two brand new spare tubes!

I briefly thought about reporting your post as abusive... but then remembered that is only abusive to me.
Congrats you lucky bastage.

Ha! I picked them up about 6 years ago for pretty cheap from coinopwarehouse. Figured it couldn’t hurt to have a couple spares. I have 7 or 8 arcade games in addition to my pins.

I hate storing the tubes because I know if something bumps then they can break so easily.

I am getting ready to start cleaning and while I am at it I am thinking of putting in some replacement bulbs. It seems like some of the bulbs fade in and out but it’s hard to tell. Do led’s work everywhere or in some spots like the front half of the playfield or not really at all?

My advice is don’t use leds.... though I have added some updates to help mitigate the amount of lamp errors you get from using leds.

If you must, use them in the inserts only or get the most expensive you can. Gi lamps are pwm’d at various intensities for use with the graphics so leds don’t work well like this unless you use very expensive ones

And turn on ‘ignore lamp errors’ in the settings

I just re-converted a swep1 playfield back to incandescent. It was poorly LED’d.. seizure city. Looks nicer now. I assume it’s the same for rfm. I keep my rfm incandescent..

I would be interested in buying the boards if you want to part it out. My remote adj. board is acting up and wont vert hold.

You can have it, just pay shipping. Just let me know what part you want.

I could use some troubleshooting help. I've recently started blowing fuse 115 (I think that's the right number- far right 5A fuse, controls the entire second lamp matrix).

Previous owner added led's to the saucer above stroke of luck hole by soldering wires directly to the light board in the center of the playfield. The led's were not working because some of the wires in the saucer had separated. I thought that might have been causing the problem, so I clipped those wires off the light board and removed the led's. I don't love a mod that isn't easily plug and play.

Fuse still shorting.

Previous owner also added the Bill Ung saucer LED's to the front saucers. Those are not currently connected to the board in the computer (missing one phone cable and connector) so I can't check them, but the wiring under the playfield in that area looks suspect to me (see pics).

Finally, previous owner added LED's to alien eyes but the LED's there are not working either - again, wiring looks suspect.

All other lights in the game are new incans.

Diagnostic test tells me nothing is wrong, aside from the fuse (I suppose it can't tell me the lights don't work if the fuse is blown).

When I replace the fuse, the first thing that happens is the lights in the shooter lane all blow. Then, after a little while, the fuse blows, taking out the rest of that lamp matrix.

What should I be looking at or doing to solve this issue? The game was working perfectly when I bought it, so I'm hoping it's something simple that happened when swapping in and out with my SWEP1 playfield.

Thanks!

IMG_8010 (resized).jpeg

IMG_8011 (resized).jpeg

IMG_8012 (resized).jpeg

IMG_8013 (resized).jpeg

I have LEDs just in the inserts and only from the ramps down. Didn't want the LED inserts on the reflective playfield area. Everything else is normal incandescent and I really like how it looks.

Thanks, Thats great! I will give you something for it. I will pm you with details.
.

Still looking for these parts as this offer was spoken for...if anyone has these boards available, please pm me. Thanks

Thanks for making me look bad but I had offered to shirkle first in a pm and it took him a couple of days to get back to me.

was not my intent, I just wanted to let people know I hadnt recieved it and I was still looking. I didnt want to look like I was collecting free offers.

I wonder if game was planned to have a manual plunger, at least this route to lock suggests something like that.

6C01F1C6-ADF9-43C1-A8EE-D2577C0239B1 (resized).jpeg

Yep, thanks for editing your post

I'm thinking of letting go what I assume is an undocumented HUP RFM. According to the computer is has less than 1300 plays. I hope to get an ad up tomorrow as well as some pics. I just did a ful top side tear down, LED's, Titans etc, etc, etc Not sure what to ask so let's say 4K OBO.

This applies to any used game not just this one.

Maybe it's just me but... If you're going to claim that a 21 yr old game is HUO you need to prove it. Otherwise it means nothing. You can call it pristine, mint, etc. It doesn't have to be HUO to be super nice.

Number of games can be reset by anyone at any time anyway so it doesn't mean much.

How did you fix the LED flickering?

Well the previous owners bought it over 15 years ago from a showroom. They couldn't remember the year, but yeah I hear you.

I re-read what I posted. I sound like a db lol. What I meant was HUO gets thrown around so much but really means nothing. The condition of the game will speak for itself.

I am however curious about led flickering. Did you solve it? I ended up converting both P2K games BACK to incandescent I just couldn’t deal with the seizure inducing flicker.

I had no issue with flickering, but I didn't put a bulb in every socket as it does not need it. Still a little too bright in the back. I need to maybe put some frosted back there.
IMG_4730 (resized).jpg

Thank you Applejuice for breathing new life into the Pin2000 RFM. Donation sent. Thank you Geoff, my resident rocket scientist, for updating my Nucore OS to 2.22 Beer has been drunk. Thank you Irishbastard for the diode and fuse placement suggestion. Owe you a beer if you make it to MGC 2021. I placed the shaker motor near the center, this game will never see a coin box again. Will plan a knocker and 6 ball trough for the future. Rock on....

Iphone5 pictures 031614 020 (resized).jpg

IMG_3876 (resized).jpg

IMG_3875 (resized).jpg

rfm shaker (resized).JPG

rfm shaker 2 (resized).JPG

I agree the term "HUO" may not meet anything but it would be the buyer's initial indication of wear, abuse, etc. But of course an inspection of it's condition will be the ultimate factor. My 5 newest machines are all "HUO" and I can only "prove" 1 of them.

Also, no flickering on my RFM with LED's either.

MrMikeman what incandescents did you use? I was thinking of converting back, but it sounds like decent ones are hard to come by these days.

Just bought a big box(100) of 555's and a few small boxes(10) of 44's from my local parts vendor. They had them in stock. Hadn't bought enough 44's but I had a bunch of used ones on hand from my STTNG LED conversion.

xianek posted on a 7 year old thread of mine that had no replies, completly forgot about that one!

Seems like someone is making some drain o beam overlays which was on prototype playfields

ca3c66698d0a1b9e14e6ed7b65104977e0616235.png (resized).png