Well of course I’m going to gravitate towards thinking it was a software issue since the problem never occurred before updating the software. And I didn’t say it WAS a software issue, I posted in case anyone else experienced the same thing. This is an owners thread, not your software thread, and we can’t help each other if we all keep quiet when something happens. (saying this politely, that may not be coming across in words)

awesome, thanks! converting power is always tricky

applejuice

A feature request I have is to turn off the Status Report.... when cradling a ball it obscures all the graphics, and frankly I have never cared about the data it displays.

...

Just got a CRT installed to replace my crappy LCD. OMG this game is sooo improved! I can see graphics I've never seen before with that dim piece of junk.

I think I'm going to replace all these LEDs with incandescent now, too. I want to restore this game to original as much as possible. Is there a good list anywhere for all the bulbs I'll need to buy (and any recommendation on current incandescents?)

If anyone needs a prism separator tool for RFM/SWEP1 - just hit me up I have a few extra I can part with! $10 shipped in the US...

Matt

Or you can just use a toothbrush.

+1

Yep...or you can use the tool that came with the pin(s).....some folks like the actual tool.....

Ok, so I’ve currently got a “standard” 19” LCD, and it’s good, but could be better. The guys on the ramps are not quite on the ramps, if you know what I mean.
I’m running Pinbox, so I plan to stick with LCD, so what’s the preferred size LCD size/type to use for this? Seems as you go larger, the aspect ratio changes.

Recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff

Go to Walmart and buy their “Onn” brand 24” LED monitor for $99. Set it for 4:3 in the monitor settings. The monitor will set in place with the CRT gone from the cabinet.

Return it if you don’t like it. But I’d be surprised if you didn’t.

Check post #3436 for what I did for LCD installation if you need other ideas.

Thanks, guys

Hmph....I tried 3 different Wal Marts today, and all 3 were out of stock, even though their website said they had the ONN 24” monitor.
Annoying.

......or you could get on ebay a 4:3 DELL 2007 FP that sits perfectly in RFM, 20 inches and perfectly aligned to playfield.

24" LED fits perfect and has a much nicer screen and probably same price after paying ebay shipping. Also it's brand new, no scratches or scuffs and not over 10 years old. This was the first option I researched and was keeping an eye out for one. then was in Walmart and saw their 22" and 24" monitors. Bought both and the 24" was perfect. The 22" did not have the proper physical screen height. Gotta love Walmart with their free testing and returns.

The 4:3 setting on the 24" monitor aligns PERFECTLY with the game. So no f'ing around with horizontal/vertical adjustments. Set it and forget it and the screen is bright and razor sharp.

I was thinking I would go back to incandescent bulbs in my RFM, but it sounds like good bulbs are hard to come by (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/best-44-and-555-s-for-revenge-from-mars).

I've heard that RFM has some nice fading effects, that we lose with LEDs. I don't think I've ever seen an RFM with incandescents to know (mine came with LEDs, the only other one I've ever played had LEDs).

It seems like I may go with replacing some of the not-nice-looking bulbs with newer LEDs... but I wonder, has anyone installed an OCD in an RFM? I don't even know if it's compatible, but from the sounds of it, it really improved the LEDs (https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/altans-informal-review-of-led-ocd).

Got the recommended 24”er from Walmart, and it is just about perfect. I’d recommend it myself.

Jeff

I would imagine the new monitor saves quite a bit of weight over the picture tube as well

rev2 6 ball trough opto board expanders are here. Anyone who already contracted me is on the list and will get what you requested. Anyone else who wants a kit let me know.

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What components are needed to convert to 6 ball? also what does it add to the game? sorry if im re-hashing something.

You buy a new pcb and kit from me. The pcb plugs on to the existing opto board and the kit expands the stock trough boards. The software from v2.22 onwards automatically detects the extra hardware and increases the max balls in certain modes like add a ball and midnight madness. More additions will be added in v2.23 to such as mothership multiball, attack mars etc.

I just had a quick look at your site and I couldn't find it: is the expension to the 6 ball trough already listed, or not yet?

Not yet, but i can send you an invoice if you want one

Question about the new power drain feature that was recently introduced.

In general i noticed my game had a sort of 'low' bang on the left flipper after rebuilding both of them. The right one seems to have a little more bang for its buck. However since i owned the game i never had the 'hold' coil test working for the right coil. It worked on the left one, but not on the right. The right flipper would stay up. EOS and everything checks out OK on both by the way. I figured this was in the way the coil on the right was wound, or something like that.

Now my left flipper hold died during power drain. I guess the transistor was on its way out and finally gave in, i ordered a few new ones. Coil measures out OK, no shorts, diodes i need to check but no shorts on any of the windings, left+right coil measure the same (133/4 Ohm).

Question: Does the power drain effect run for both flippers or does it pick a specific one? (Always the left one for me)
Question: Does an aged transistor affect the 'bang' of the flippers? The right flipper just seemed a bit different in the noise it makes as it activates and smacks the rod into the coil stop
Question: What could be the cause of the right flipper not going up on the hold test?

Just got my RVM (haven't turned it on yet, switching to USA power,) looking it over, its pretty worn and I see some broken/bent plastics. and a torn ramp.

very worn drophole

My question, on the plastic pic, is that missing something? it looks like it might be broken.plastic closeup
Also, ther metal ramp has a tear/crack on the side, is that a problem?torn ramp

Wow, that's some pretty heavy wear on the SOL hole there. There's a protector for it, but i'm pretty sure it will not cover the left side of the damage. Bondo or other wood repair , sanding & painting a bit i guess. The skip ramp can be replaced, it looks like the SOL upkicker metal sheet work also needs some attention.

The right inner loop plastic is also damaged, a transparant flap used to sit on top of the drop targe there. (This can cause airballs which in turn could damage an insert if it lands wrong.)

The red lane guides are the least of your worries and can be easily replaced with new ones.

I hope the rest of the cabinet is in better shape and stuff like the monitor and PC works, no leaky caps or battery damage etc?

Thanks for the info. This is part of a container shipment from Italy and the sellers video shows it was working there. Looks like the pc power supply can’t switch to 110 so I have a replacement coming. Hopefully I can turn it on soon!

If it’s factory I recall reading that the transformer is the only thing switched and it should always be sending 110 to the PC. My SWEP1 was a reimport but I didn’t do the conversion.

Check your transformer line voltage plug first. If it’s set for 220v then when you run at 110v the transformer will only output 55v to the monitor and pc as transformers are dumb devices that convert whatever they get the same way regardless

In the uk we have the opposite issues with wrong settings causing too high voltage and transformers vibrating and humming noisily

This is how my plastic looked like when I was renovating it; it's not that different from yours, but have better edges.

1 (resized).jpg

Also, it's kind of hard to see on your picture but I think your plastic that sits above the SOL (stroke of luck) hole is missing a piece. There should be a translucent piece that extends over the lane to the right of the SOL (think with the drop-down target in it). Mine was broken and I've seen several other RFMs with the same issue. This is what the plastic should look like:

2 (resized).jpg

Awesome. Thanks, It appears I am missing a bunch of stuff.

It’s such a strange looking playfield with minimal graphics in the back because it is dark in there

I'm not sure yet if I'll buy one: I've bought too many pinball-things already that I never got around to installing yet, I must admit I know, it's mostly just a matter of freeing some time and just do it......

If you would send me the costs, that'd be nice.

I’m not sure if you got this resolved, but I had the same issue on my RFM. Solder joints have gone cold, and need to be reflowed. See attached pictures. Notice cracks in the solder at the base of the pin. Once I re soldered the pins the problem was solved

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I just picked up a RFM that had been sitting in a guy’s basement for a really long time. It is filthy dirty but everything seems to be working but a few burned out bulbs. He claimed it has been in his position since new and spent only the first 9 mos. of its life in an arcade. It is in great shape and the monitor looks brand new. No burn-in or anything but it is too bright. It looks terrible because I can see the 4:3 “grey” square projected on the reflective glass. Isn’t there a brightness and contrast controls somewhere? I cannot find them.
Thanks in advance!

Yes; the brightness controls are on the back of the monitor and the contrast is one of the pots in the front behind the backglass.

Thanks. I saw a picture of a white board with pots on it behind the backglass but mine does not have this. I'm thinking maybe the monitor may have been replaced. There is some weird looking board in the back though that looks like this. No pots though.

IMG_7385 (resized).jpg

Wells-Gardner D7700 digital-control monitor. Press the OSD button.

Wow. Had no clue that even existed. Neat.

That was it. Thanks!
So my monitor must have been replaced at some point with an Orion A48JLL40X46 arcade monitor and the stock adjustment board is gone.
The one I have is easier to use though. I moved it to the front (long cable) so I could adjust while looking at the monitor. I turned the brightness way down and increased the contrast a bit and it looks so much better.
Thanks again,
Mark

IMG_7397 (resized).jpg

Orion is just the tube manufacturer. Wells-Gardner made the monitor. It's a much better model than what originally came in the game. Congrats!

Never knew that.
Thanks

I just got the power converted on my RVM from Italy. Its finally working but none of the buttons on the front door seem to do anything so I can't get it into test mode. According to the schematic the switches come in at J4 on the Coin Door Interface Board and then move on to J5. I've reseated them and both look ok. Where else would be a good place to look?

IMG_5423 (resized).jpg

IMG_5425 (resized).jpg

Check your driver board connectors, bottom left for the direct switch connector

thanks! that fixed it. One new problem popped up, the fan on the cpu heatsink is moving slow and making a lot of noise, it looks like the bearings are bad. Are there replacements available? Its a tiny size, much smaller than modern fans.

I stock them, so could include with other things like shaker and knocker looms, update leads, 6 ball trough updates etc to save shipping if you wanted these things anyway. Pm me if interested

Best to change it soon as the processor needs to be cooled at all times.

I would strongly recommend to not use the computer w/o havng replaced the CPU fan! At the same time you could check / replace the fan in the computer power supply (or replace the power supply).

By all means go with applejuice 's replacement if he has a good price.
I went with a 50 to 60mm adapter plate on my machine.

and check the batterys

Just use a regular fan (from back in the days). They're nothing special.

I'm hooking Mark up with a fan, I'm local to him and had to buy a five pack for my Revenge from Mars.

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