(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"

By kjm8888

9 years ago


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13 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 6,641 posts in this topic. You are on page 81 of 133.
#4001 3 years ago
Quoted from NYP:

So all these posts for this game and no good advice for led’s? Do led’s for the under playfield switched lamps make the game too bright or is it ok? Leave GI incandescent ? Trying to find some good advice .

I did all LEDs under the playfield up to the targets. I also put LEDs in the spotlights. White on the aliens and a 4 smd blue that gives a glow to the upper area by the skip ramp. I left all the GI lighting incandescent. I didn't like how the LEDs looked. I will try to get you a good picture tomorrow. Hard to get pics of lighting. lol

#4002 3 years ago

thanks for the replies. Think I'll try LED's on all the inserts and keep the GI incandescent, see what it looks like and maybe experiment a little afterwards

#4003 3 years ago

Hard to get good LED shots. These are ok at least. As stated LED compete under the playfield and left all the GI incandescent.

IMG_1256 (resized).jpgIMG_1256 (resized).jpgIMG_1258 (resized).jpgIMG_1258 (resized).jpg
#4004 3 years ago

Joined the club!

Picked up this HUO game. Unfortunately, even though it has HUO, it was also played A LOT. 8300 plays on it.
Cabinet is beautiful, but the playfield has wear on the green beam inserts and on the edges of several inserts. Nothing terrible, but I might look into fully restoring it some day.
Moved it in last night and already added the video amp this morning.
24CC448A-3B93-406C-A030-E4F6CB621F3D (resized).jpeg24CC448A-3B93-406C-A030-E4F6CB621F3D (resized).jpeg4468F896-1FEA-4A0A-AC55-DE08C954D1A2 (resized).jpeg4468F896-1FEA-4A0A-AC55-DE08C954D1A2 (resized).jpeg5505CFE2-A88A-46CC-A902-28A711251944 (resized).jpeg5505CFE2-A88A-46CC-A902-28A711251944 (resized).jpeg628D7D17-53CF-45C1-A05A-71F4F033D460 (resized).jpeg628D7D17-53CF-45C1-A05A-71F4F033D460 (resized).jpeg

#4005 3 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Joined the club!
Picked up this HUO game. Unfortunately, even though it has HUO, it was also played A LOT. 8300 plays on it.
Cabinet is beautiful, but the playfield has wear on the green beam inserts and on the edges of several inserts. Nothing terrible, but I might look into fully restoring it some day.
Moved it in last night and already added the video amp this morning.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

8,3k plays for HUO compared to his age is not that much. My HUO(first owner) GB has around 6k plays.

#4006 3 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Joined the club!
Picked up this HUO game. Unfortunately, even though it has HUO, it was also played A LOT. 8300 plays on it.
Cabinet is beautiful, but the playfield has wear on the green beam inserts and on the edges of several inserts. Nothing terrible, but I might look into fully restoring it some day.
Moved it in last night and already added the video amp this morning.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Job2 . Update the software

#4007 3 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Job2 . Update the software

Job 3: install shaker motor with new software from applejuice

#4008 3 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Job2 . Update the software

It's currently running version 1.0, so I'd say so!

#4009 3 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

It's currently running version 1.0, so I'd say so!

Yikes

#4010 3 years ago

Hey guys, you know the story, you think you've taken enough detailed pics and then you start putting the PF back together....anyway I thought the top standoff/metal post on the slingshots had the longer thread than the others. Can anyone confirm? When I put the second spacer on with the plastic there is still some wiggle room. Could be I have tumbling media that I need to clean out.

0-1 (resized).jpeg0-1 (resized).jpeg
#4011 3 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

Hey guys, you know the story, you think you've taken enough detailed pics and then you start putting the PF back together....anyway I thought the top standoff/metal post on the slingshots had the longer thread than the others. Can anyone confirm? When I put the second spacer on with the plastic there is still some wiggle room. Could be I have tumbling media that I need to clean out.[quoted image]

That's the wrong standoff. You need the longer one. Here is a pic from the shop out images but it shows the standoff you need.

ea81cc1fa3b0b917131beb12a40f9fd62b37fdd0 (resized).jpgea81cc1fa3b0b917131beb12a40f9fd62b37fdd0 (resized).jpg
#4012 3 years ago
Quoted from Lithonion:

That's the wrong standoff. You need the longer one. Here is a pic from the shop out images but it shows the standoff you need.

There's another standoff below that long one (between the ramp and the slingshot).

#4013 3 years ago

Hello. Just was wondering, is it possible to update a NuCore system Revenge From Mars with applejuice v2.0? Has anyone here done it

#4014 3 years ago
Quoted from PilotPinball:

Hello. Just was wondering, is it possible to update a NuCore system Revenge From Mars with applejuice v2.0? Has anyone here done it

Yes you can and it been discussed many times on here. There’s info on my site for doing it manually or you can use my new gui update program which has pinbox/nucore options

https://mypinballs.com/software/pinball2000/software_updater.jsp

#4015 3 years ago

Nice. I saw the "Pinbox" option, but wasn't sure if that would work.

#4016 3 years ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

There's another standoff below that long one (between the ramp and the slingshot).

Oh, ya I didn't even notice the ramp not on your pic.

#4017 3 years ago

applejuice ... if you're looking for requests.
Can you improve the lan connectivity of RFM?

Specifically; I'm looking for a modernized DHCP client ... and a "web api" service.
I'd like to assign a "Static" IP to the RFM; and have a service connect to the RFM to get critical player data... such as last player(s) score. HSTDs. High score tables; etc.

#4018 3 years ago

I joined the club!

Not my first pin: I owned a TZ and ToM years ago before they went up in price, and sold them back in the day as well which i regret.

I'm kind of a sad panda as after moving the machine to my place, the pc does not seem to boot up properly, and as such the playfield does not come on.
A bit of background, i've been in pc hardware since the 90's so i know my stuff, but reseating the RAM and Prism card did not seem to help.
It still has the original PSU but voltages are good and it makes no noise, i know i need to check the caps, and replace the PSU as a safety measure soon.
Mainboard looks pristine, no bulging caps in sight. All cables seem to be connected properly as well.

I guess i need to re-check everything, but just a quick question, does the PC boot from Prism if the LPT cable is not connected?
Must the lpt cable be connected in order to boot up from Prism? What lights should i see on a working card and/or power board?

#4019 3 years ago
Quoted from Asure:

I joined the club!
Not my first pin: I owned a TZ and ToM years ago before they went up in price, and sold them back in the day as well which i regret.
I'm kind of a sad panda as after moving the machine to my place, the pc does not seem to boot up properly, and as such the playfield does not come on.
A bit of background, i've been in pc hardware since the 90's so i know my stuff, but reseating the RAM and Prism card did not seem to help.
It still has the original PSU but voltages are good and it makes no noise, i know i need to check the caps, and replace the PSU as a safety measure soon.
Mainboard looks pristine, no bulging caps in sight. All cables seem to be connected properly as well.
I guess i need to re-check everything, but just a quick question, does the PC boot from Prism if the LPT cable is not connected?
Must the lpt cable be connected in order to boot up from Prism? What lights should i see on a working card and/or power board?

Welcome to the club! Sorry in advance for the dumb question, but did you push the button in front of the PC metal case (behind translite)? I only say that because I made the same mistake when I first got it (the stupid thing doesn't even look like a power button, if you ask me). Hopefully it's that simple

#4020 3 years ago

Got it to work after reseating the ram and prism card Now i need to replace some lamps and adjust switches and we should be good to go!

#4021 3 years ago
Quoted from Asure:

I joined the club!
Not my first pin: I owned a TZ and ToM years ago before they went up in price, and sold them back in the day as well which i regret.
I'm kind of a sad panda as after moving the machine to my place, the pc does not seem to boot up properly, and as such the playfield does not come on.
A bit of background, i've been in pc hardware since the 90's so i know my stuff, but reseating the RAM and Prism card did not seem to help.
It still has the original PSU but voltages are good and it makes no noise, i know i need to check the caps, and replace the PSU as a safety measure soon.
Mainboard looks pristine, no bulging caps in sight. All cables seem to be connected properly as well.
I guess i need to re-check everything, but just a quick question, does the PC boot from Prism if the LPT cable is not connected?
Must the lpt cable be connected in order to boot up from Prism? What lights should i see on a working card and/or power board?

The Prism has an Option ROM that takes over the screen output on boot.

#4022 3 years ago
Quoted from Joe_Blasi:

The Prism has an Option ROM that takes over the screen output on boot.

Yep i know, it wasn't clear from my post.
I first got the PC up & running without the prism card, on a VGA screen and i went from there.

Looking to update to applejuice 's latest, i seem to be missing the service port, and the cable is loose on the bottom in the back.
Can i just plug that cable to a compatible XP/98SE PC?

Regarding the game, i guess i need some sleeves and more checks on wiring/switches etc,

Q: Ball stop upper left: Is this one binding or does it drop by itself after completing a mode?
I sometimes need to flipper a few times to make it drop, is this by design?

Todo list:
- The right drop target does not seem to rise/drop (this also seems to be the hardest shot to hit for me..)
- Bottom one of the three pop bumpers seems dead.
- Left slingshot hardly triggers, right one nice & strong.
- Ramp flap damage (looks fixable with some tape on bottom for now. I guess i'll order a new one with bracket, no rivet tools.)
- Beer strip needed on ball catcher (the metal irritates me as it cause the screen to not reflect 100%, same with some of the ramp switches up top right.)
- Fix feature lights below saucer (i hope it's a loose connector / cold solder joints as this seems common.) I'll take it out and check/reflow the lamp section.
- Upgrade to 2.21

General:
I love the mirror effect and think it's a shame that it's not used in other games more. Too bad pinball 2000 died.
Having played ToM and TZ this game is much more accessible for my wife & daughter, the ruleset is easy and no need to do any tasks to trigger a new mode, just the same 4-6 shots, post area, center flap ramp. Rinse & repeat as next mode/feature starts automatically. Am i missing something or is there depth in the ruleset that i need to explore more? Secret combo ramps/shots things?

#4023 3 years ago

The service port is simply an extension of the PCs serial port. Just plug one end of your 9-pin cable into the RfM PC, the other one into your computer and you should be fine. If the updater does not find your pin, open the PC and ensure that the port you are plugged into is indeed connected to COM1 on the motherboard. If not, simply change the plug on the motherboard.

The ballstop tends to get magnetized and hangs, as you are experiencing. Either swap for a new part or simply put some adhesive tape at the bottom end of the plunger, that‘s what did the trick on my RfM. The latter is also an easy way to determine if magnetism is indeed the problem. Additionally, it would do no harm to dismantle and clean the ballstop unit.

Added over 4 years ago:

Please note: „...open the PC and ensure that the port you are plugged into is indeed connected to COM1 on the motherboard...“ refers to the RfM PC.

#4024 3 years ago

I’m joining the club even though I am still 2+ months from getting my hands on the machine (it’s part of the container buy from Italy)

I don’t know a lot about them yet- I am on page 1 of the topic. Based on the video I am guessing if there is a good display on the monitor then the computer is also working?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ce-IJ69kpSHhrXcSOoZlifodMPpo4U1G/view

#4025 3 years ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I’m joining the club even though I am still 2+ months from getting my hands on the machine (it’s part of the container buy from Italy)
I don’t know a lot about them yet- I am on page 1 of the topic. Based on the video I am guessing if there is a good display on the monitor then the computer is also working?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ce-IJ69kpSHhrXcSOoZlifodMPpo4U1G/view

yes, computer is working-otherwise one can not play a game.
Did you buy it from "Expand" (Andrea)?

#4026 3 years ago

I've got mine mostly working now, fixed a few common problems (drop target not dropping, ramp switches and a few lamps/flashers).

Now i need to replace the skip ramp flap.
Its bent and has a tear in the left middle. Didnt check this when buying :/
It seems to be made of flimsy black plastic-like material, is that original? Or just very thin metal sheet?

Anybody in Europe with the complete bracket+flap so i don't need to worry about rivets? I found a company in UK that will rivet it to an existing bracket, anybody have experience with them? (Pinball.co.uk)

#4027 3 years ago
Quoted from Asure:

Yep i know, it wasn't clear from my post.
I first got the PC up & running without the prism card, on a VGA screen and i went from there.
Looking to update to applejuice 's latest, i seem to be missing the service port, and the cable is loose on the bottom in the back.
Can i just plug that cable to a compatible XP/98SE PC?
Regarding the game, i guess i need some sleeves and more checks on wiring/switches etc,
Q: Ball stop upper left: Is this one binding or does it drop by itself after completing a mode?
I sometimes need to flipper a few times to make it drop, is this by design?
Todo list:
- The right drop target does not seem to rise/drop (this also seems to be the hardest shot to hit for me..)
- Bottom one of the three pop bumpers seems dead.
- Left slingshot hardly triggers, right one nice & strong.
- Ramp flap damage (looks fixable with some tape on bottom for now. I guess i'll order a new one with bracket, no rivet tools.)
- Beer strip needed on ball catcher (the metal irritates me as it cause the screen to not reflect 100%, same with some of the ramp switches up top right.)
- Fix feature lights below saucer (i hope it's a loose connector / cold solder joints as this seems common.) I'll take it out and check/reflow the lamp section.
- Upgrade to 2.21
General:
I love the mirror effect and think it's a shame that it's not used in other games more. Too bad pinball 2000 died.
Having played ToM and TZ this game is much more accessible for my wife & daughter, the ruleset is easy and no need to do any tasks to trigger a new mode, just the same 4-6 shots, post area, center flap ramp. Rinse & repeat as next mode/feature starts automatically. Am i missing something or is there depth in the ruleset that i need to explore more? Secret combo ramps/shots things?

Dont bother with getting an xp/98 windows machine to update your software. Use my new update software and a modern os like macOS Catalina or windows 10 no problem.

#4028 3 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Dont bother with getting an xp/98 windows machine to update your software. Use my new update software and a modern os like macOS Catalina or windows 10 no problem.

Thank you for all the work you did on the new software, i will update soon. Still on 1.1 now (!).

I actually built pc's for customers during the end of the 90's and 00's and have an XP laptop to maintain some old plc stuff, but i can't find my null modem cable anywhere. So I'm waiting on a new one. I might go the cmd route with fupdate as well. I know my way around any old or new pc tech .

Need to sort out the skip ramp though.
Do you maybe have one ready to go with bracket? I am unable to rivet.

Still need to fix a few intermittent switches and dead flashers, a chewed out pop bumper skirt and so on. My left martian doesn't always go down as well With the fixes i already did the game does play a lot better and its so close to being done i can almost taste it

#4029 3 years ago

I broke a wire on a RFM flasher while pulling the ramp. Can someone verify that it's a diode inside the connector and what direction the band should be facing?

Thanks in advance,

Steve G

PIC 2 (resized).jpgPIC 2 (resized).jpgPIC 1 (resized).jpgPIC 1 (resized).jpg
#4030 3 years ago

No - that's a splice, because someone else broke it before you did.

Edit: Tobavoid giving wrong info, it may be a diode.

I want someone to cut that open. I me er had an RFM on route, but also never remember hearing about these back in RGP when the games were new!

#4031 3 years ago

The connectors appear to be installed by WMS, as all flashers are wired the same. I cut it apart and the band on the diode faces the 2-pin white connector.

#4032 3 years ago

Confirmed, i have these same blue crimped things under the slings. Noticed them when i removed the ramp to add new sling rubbers.

#4033 3 years ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I’m joining the club even though I am still 2+ months from getting my hands on the machine (it’s part of the container buy from Italy)
I don’t know a lot about them yet- I am on page 1 of the topic. Based on the video I am guessing if there is a good display on the monitor then the computer is also working?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ce-IJ69kpSHhrXcSOoZlifodMPpo4U1G/view

3 of us bought them last year on a container and have been upgrading them and working on them together. If you have any questions once it comes, feel free to bug me. I can also help with the software upgrade. --Dan

#4034 3 years ago
Quoted from harig:

yes, computer is working-otherwise one can not play a game.
Did you buy it from "Expand" (Andrea)?

Yeah, this is I think our 7th container by from Andrea over the past 5 years.

#4035 3 years ago

A friend picked of a RFM yesterday and dropped it off at my house. I have a SWE1 so I offered to have him drop it off for me to check out - was sitting in storage and couldn't power it on. Needs to have the PC motherboard caps replaced, the green ones are all swelled or leaking except one. Likely need a new CPU as well since the CPU fan doesn't work, so the chip is likely toast.

I swapped in my SWE1 PC and installed the RFM prism card and booted up just fine. Gave us a chance to do switch testing - needs a few microswitches replaced and 3 sets of optos.

But check out this .1 software version. January 26, 1999. Anyone know if this is the very first version? I haven't been able to find a reference earlier than .9 when searching. But anyway, now to research software updating process.

IMG_3622 (resized).jpgIMG_3622 (resized).jpg

#4036 3 years ago
Quoted from Steve_in_Escalon:

I broke a wire on a RFM flasher while pulling the ramp. Can someone verify that it's a diode inside the connector and what direction the band should be facing?
Thanks in advance,
Steve G
[quoted image][quoted image]

Yes there is a diode in the blue connector. You want the cathode (stripe) toward the plug not toward the saucer. It's a 1N4004

Mine broke as well and didn't know there was a diode in there so I just made a new plug. Wow did that cause a head scratcher for a few days. lol I had insert lights that wouldn't turn off and some that wouldn't turn on all due to one little missing diode.

#4037 3 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

A friend picked of a RFM yesterday and dropped it off at my house this. I have a SWE1 so I offered to have him drop it off for me to check out - was sitting in storage and couldn't power it on. Needs to have the PC motherboard caps replaced, the green ones are all swelled or leaking except one. Likely need a new CPU as well since the CPU fan doesn't work, so the chip is likely toast.
I swapped in my SWE1 PC and installed the RFM prism card and booted up just fine. Gave us a chance to do switch testing - needs a few microswitches replaced and 3 sets of optos.
But check out this .1 software version. January 26, 1999. Anyone know if this is the very first version? I haven't been able to find a reference earlier than .9 when searching. But anyway, now to research software updating process.
[quoted image]

Free play only?? with masked rom's? WMS made masked roms for RFM that can fail back to free play only?

Does it have full an flash card?

#4038 3 years ago
Quoted from PoMC:

A friend picked of a RFM yesterday and dropped it off at my house this. I have a SWE1 so I offered to have him drop it off for me to check out - was sitting in storage and couldn't power it on. Needs to have the PC motherboard caps replaced, the green ones are all swelled or leaking except one. Likely need a new CPU as well since the CPU fan doesn't work, so the chip is likely toast.
I swapped in my SWE1 PC and installed the RFM prism card and booted up just fine. Gave us a chance to do switch testing - needs a few microswitches replaced and 3 sets of optos.
But check out this .1 software version. January 26, 1999. Anyone know if this is the very first version? I haven't been able to find a reference earlier than .9 when searching. But anyway, now to research software updating process.
[quoted image]

Be sure to grab the code off those eoroms before you do..!

Quoted from Joe_Blasi:

Free play only?? with masked rom's? WMS made masked roms for RFM that can fail back to free play only?
Does it have full an flash card?

Prototype software. Likely was free play only as they did not want operators trying to run it and cause playability issues.

#4039 3 years ago

Can you please post a photo of your serial number? Mine is 50270100392 from 03/13/1999 and it was also running a 0.1 version. It is an early production one without slingshot spotlights. I wonder if yours has earlier or later serial.

Quoted from PoMC:

A friend picked
of a RFM yesterday and dropped it off at my house this. I have a SWE1 so I offered to have him drop it off for me to check out - was sitting in storage and couldn't power it on. Needs to have the PC motherboard caps replaced, the green ones are all swelled or leaking except one. Likely need a new CPU as well since the CPU fan doesn't work, so the chip is likely toast.
I swapped in my SWE1 PC and installed the RFM prism card and booted up just fine. Gave us a chance to do switch testing - needs a few microswitches replaced and 3 sets of optos.
But check out this .1 software version. January 26, 1999. Anyone know if this is the very first version? I haven't been able to find a reference earlier than .9 when searching. But anyway, now to research software updating process.
[quoted image]

#4040 3 years ago

Game does have the slingshot spotlights.

The optos under the left ramp that sense if a ball is locked at the post are not programmed into the game yet on .1 triggering the optos in the switch test returns a switch not used message. One less set of optos to replace.

0E6B7775-97EF-4AE9-A8CF-5172A98DCAE7 (resized).jpeg0E6B7775-97EF-4AE9-A8CF-5172A98DCAE7 (resized).jpeg445EE261-B3AC-454D-9C48-0B135E3B9DB3 (resized).jpeg445EE261-B3AC-454D-9C48-0B135E3B9DB3 (resized).jpeg

#4041 3 years ago

The only logical explanation is that someone swapped the prism card. That can be checked by verifying the serial number on prism card.

#4042 3 years ago

I was cleaning out the bottom of cab today and besides some rubber and a few misplaced bulbs i managed to find this lodged in one of the corners.. Anybody know where it goes or what it is?

20200822_225521 (resized).jpg20200822_225521 (resized).jpg
#4043 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

No - that's a splice, because someone else broke it before you did.
Edit: Tobavoid giving wrong info, it may be a diode.
I want someone to cut that open. I me er had an RFM on route, but also never remember hearing about these back in RGP when the games were new!

incorrect. I had some of those in my nos parts. there is a diode in there

#4044 3 years ago
Quoted from Asure:

I was cleaning out the bottom of cab today and besides some rubber and a few misplaced bulbs i managed to find this lodged in one of the corners.. Anybody know where it goes or what it is?
[quoted image]

I'm 99% sure it's a remake of the "Ball catcher anti ball trap bracket", see page 2-24, item 15 in the manual. It sits in the front of the ball catcher assembly.

I call it "remake" because I ordered one of those from Germany like two years ago but unfortunately the mounting holes in mine didn't match the actual holes in the ball catcher assembly so I couldn't attach it. My guess is another buyer had the same problem and just put it inside the cabinet

Edit: I found the item in their shop, its 100% that item. https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/revenge-from-mars/6056/bracket-ball-catcher-for-revenge-from-mars

#4045 3 years ago
Quoted from Asure:

I've got mine mostly working now, fixed a few common problems (drop target not dropping, ramp switches and a few lamps/flashers).
Now i need to replace the skip ramp flap.
Its bent and has a tear in the left middle. Didnt check this when buying :/
It seems to be made of flimsy black plastic-like material, is that original? Or just very thin metal sheet?
Anybody in Europe with the complete bracket+flap so i don't need to worry about rivets? I found a company in UK that will rivet it to an existing bracket, anybody have experience with them? (Pinball.co.uk)

Mine had cracks/tears in the edges too, I think that's common. I bought this one from Marco for $8 and pop riveted it myself. First time I ever riveted something, it turned out well, but pop rivets have more of a doughnut look to them instead of smooth.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-15141

#4046 3 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

incorrect. I had some of those in my nos parts. there is a diode in there

See my edit? No? See my edit that you quoted.

#4047 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

See my edit? No? See my edit that you quoted.

haha. I missed the edit portion. it's all good

#4048 3 years ago

I’ve been playing my new machine for a couple of weeks now. One mode that I love, but kind of annoys me is the Alien VS Robo Abe mode...

The alien just stands there and lets Abe pummel him. I wish they would have made him fight back a little.

#4049 3 years ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I'm 99% sure it's a remake of the "Ball catcher anti ball trap bracket", see page 2-24, item 15 in the manual. It sits in the front of the ball catcher assembly.
I call it "remake" because I ordered one of those from Germany like two years ago.

I checked and it fits below there. No idea why it got removed from the game on mine. Looks to be original at least, the holes match perfectly and its got some wear so it was indeed installed at some point. I think i got the screws in the vacuum cleaner somewhere as well Thanks for pointing it out!

#4050 3 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

I’ve been playing my new machine for a couple of weeks now. One mode that I love, but kind of annoys me is the Alien VS Robo Abe mode...
The alien just stands there and lets Abe pummel him. I wish they would have made him fight back a little.

If you run my updates then the martian will rejuvenate its health (on the life bar) if you don't hit him quickly enough. Unfortunately there aren't any fight graphics for the martian itself, just the being hit ones. Secret Weapon is my favourite mode actually. The narrator speech never gets old

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