boulter My macbook pro w/USB3 > hub worked fine. Not sure about the licensing issue (I purchased a license) but I can verify the cabling you describe worked for me.

... applejuice do you have a preferred USB->Serial adapter for the MAC? FTDI or Prolific chipset ?

Always use prolific chipset leads for either Mac or windows. Dont bother with anything else. The drivers are already included to and they work great

To everyone generally, We have lead sets that are tested to work available if you have issues or are unsure which to buy. The set also includes leads for pinbox updates

If the serial lead works it will show up in the application port list, just like it does in the Apple system profiler usb section. You don’t need a licence to see this but you can’t do anything useful without one entered for obvious reasons

Also

V1.0.2 of the updater will be out soon. A couple more things fixed mostly windows variant stuff

I've got a couple of lights that I can't get to work on the LH side of the space ship on the playfield. All the rest of the lights on that board work fine. Anybody have any ideas on what could be wrong? I've attached a photo so you can see what I'm talking about.

IMG_20200716_133316 (resized).jpg

Try to wiggle the connector on the light board a bit to see if the lights come on. If they do check connector on the light board for cracked solder joints. You will need to remove the board to check that out.

Remove the socket from the board and use a battery to verify that socket and lamp work. If they do, you can skip to 2 below (although also doing 1 wouldnˋt hurt)

1. Try cleaning the metal contacts in the wedge base sockets and carefully bend them a little tighter together. Also, bend the 2 contacts on the side of the socket a little upwards and clean them as well.
2. However, you will likely need to reflow the curved solder patches of these sockets on the board (remove board for that). Over the years, the 2 socket side contacts dig into the solder, thus causing bad/no connection.

V1.0.2 of the software updater tool is now available for download

Updates notes are:

Pinball 2000 Software Updater Tool

v1.02
- Fixed a bug causing a crash if the external drives list was only the boot drive even if the external drives list wasn’t being used.
- Fixed a bug with the windows zip extraction process where folder names with spaces were causing a crash
- Fixed a bug with the windows zip extraction tool where the shell command was timing out too quickly for some windows machines to handle.

v1.01
- Improved the handling of files inside the pinball2000 home folder. Extracted .rom files expanded by mistake were causing an issue. The program now ignores .rom extensions when creating its update list.
v1.00
- Initial Release

I don't have this machine any more so i can't recall which type of socket these are but if they are the 555 wedge type then make sure the metal blades inside the socket itself are reasonably close together and i also find that spreading the wire on the LED (if you have Leds) to the outside of the body will ensure better contact. It's more than likely a contact issue rather than a failure i'm thinking.

I just got back in the club for the third time. Picked up a lovely machine that had been in a home for the last 15+ years. I am guessing I am the third owner.

One question, this machine is very clean sans a couple of dings in the T-Molding. Has anyone ever found a solid replacement or know the measurements off hand? I guess mostly is it centered or an offset molding.

One 20 foot roll of standard 3/4” T-molding will do the entire machine ... it’s about 9 feet on each side.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/revenge-from-mars-restoration#post-5174005

Thank you. That is what I figured, but I wasn't sure about if it was centered, etc.

Welcome Mel! Update the software and add a shaker, it's like a whole new experience!

Thanks mate, I'll look into both. I hadn't realized either could be done. This still has the original so I am guessing I should swap out the fan as well.

Got a nice RfM this weekend and looking to restore it where I can.

One thing I noticed is that not all the lightbulbs on the playfield have a red silicone lamp cover. So I ordered a bunch of them (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8063-4), but can't figure out which lights originally had one of these covers. (the manual doesn't mention them, and it's hard to see in online photos and videos).

Anyone here can help me identifying where they should and shouldn't go?

The row of bulbs that are next to the shooter lane and covered by the plastics.

As robotron911 mentioned it's next to the shooter lane under the plastics. It's only under the bombs. There are a couple GI lighting spots under the plastics that don't get the covers. This picture is about 1/2 of them just stole it off the shop pics to show you.
ea81cc1fa3b0b917131beb12a40f9fd62b37fdd0 (resized).jpg

Thanks robotron911 and Lithonion!

I noticed a red silicone cover on one of the lamps under the left ramp as well (lamp 76A in the manual). I guess that one should not have a cover then?

lamps (resized).png

I just broke my machine down pretty much unmaintained HUO and they were only under the rockets on the right hand side.

Yes it should so it doesn’t glare and mess with the graphics

I use glass coloured red #44 bulbs myself. Nice crystal shine to them not dull like the caps

Finally getting my RFM back together after a major tear down. I am missing a few pictures and the plastic post set I received from Marco does not seem correct. Anyone have a diagram for plastic post location or any pictures.
Thanks for the help,
Steve

I just tore mine down yesterday. PM Incoming...

I found were mine went using the ship out pictures posted here.
https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/revenge-from-mars/gallery/shopout

Thanks for pointing me to the images. This will definitely help
Steve

If there is a list please put me on it!

6 Ball Trough Update.

First prototype assembled and tested. Working nice. Pleased with my install and the neatness for the upgrade. Board plugs onto the existing opto controller board as below:

IMG_7240 (resized).jpgIMG_7241 (resized).JPGIMG_7244 (resized).JPGIMG_7243 (resized).JPGIMG_7245 (resized).JPG

I've also found a neat 4 core encased cable to use for routing form the opto board expansion to the trough boards. Kit will come with the assembled board, cable and plugs to make your extension cable and the optos to add to the trough boards. This isn't a straight plug and play as you have to add the optos the existing trough boards and also you will need software rev v2.22 and higher to take advantage of the new features.

Price is going to be £80 plus shipping. I have 4 proto boards that i will assemble and can ship to early adopters to test/use in their games for 10% saving if you want to get involved early and give me feedback. PM me if interested.

Cheers all

Slick! Cant wait!

I guess I picked a good time to get back into the club.

Yep I’ve released a fair amount of software and hardware upgrades over the last 18 months. More to come to. This is me giving it 100% for the game and the pin2k system

Your work is super appreciated!

So I am trying to get the RFM I picked up last week setup. It looks like one of the leg levelers/legs are stripped. The silver piece the leg leveler threads into just spins freely and no matter what I do heat, PB blaster, etc it will not budge.

It looks like I will have to order another leg which is a bummer given what great shape these were in. I checked out Pinball Life and they have a set of Williams black powder coated and then a Pin 2K specific coat which is $20 more. Can anyone tell me if there is an actual difference in finish?

Pin 2K: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-rfm-and-swep1-legs-set-of-4.html

Black Powdercoat: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-black-legs-set-of-4.html

The PB2K legs other are painted matte black. The powder coat is going to be a bit more glossy compared to the matte black paint of the PB2K legs.

Cut it with an angle grinder, or hacksaw. I've had to cut a few off.

The problem is the piece that it threads into. If I cut it off, I can't thread the leveler. It's a fixed piece.

Just looked at mine, I see what you mean. So, if you cut it and took that off, I would think you could put a nut and washer on either side of the hole in the leg and use it like an old style leg. No?

The hole for the leveler would then be too wide and it would wiggle unfortunately.

Could bring it to any auto shop etc and have them weld a nut on, probably wouldn't charge you. Worth a shot before buying a leg if it's in good shape otherwise. I know I'd MacGyver it some how.

Can someone please take a picture of the diode And the fuse that is installed with the Sam shaker motor?

Just picked up a nice HUO RFM and want to upgrade to LED's. I know that messes up the lamp test but don't care about that. Thinking of going with a cointaker non ghosting kit for the P.F and frosted warm white for the GI, unless someone here has a better idea, open to suggestions.....TIA

Be careful. Over-lighting the playfield will wash out the projected screen image.

I always wondered what UV LEDs with the UV post sleeves would look like. It would fit the theme.

So any recommendations for the best Led lighting method to use do it doesn’t wash out the screen too much?

Green bulbs under the red ramps, the ramps cancel out the direct light of the green bulb

Have pictures of this? Would be interested in seeing how that looks. I left the back as incandescent.

Green LEDS On right side, and clear on left under ramps

8147B2F4-6E7E-4E89-98A7-19816550321E (resized).jpeg

So all these posts for this game and no good advice for led’s? Do led’s for the under playfield switched lamps make the game too bright or is it ok? Leave GI incandescent ? Trying to find some good advice .

One of the things you have to be careful with for the LEDs is that this game has dimming effects that are intended for bulbs. So the LEDs will likely flicker anytime a dimming effect is being used, like after you complete a mode. It's best to test in small batches first before making big changes throughout your playfield. I ended up doing GI LEDs towards the flippers, but not changing anything further up the field since I didn't want to drown out the view of the monitor. I would just test and small batches first to see what works for you.

I did all LED under the playfield, no worries there. The front half of the GI I did LED and left the back half incandescent. Worked for me, but interested in looking into the green LEDs in the back.