yeap. Good luck with that.

You can buy a prism-divert-tool and battery from Applejuice. The tool works really nice to separate the two parts of the prism card.

Yep i have both the proper batteries and the separator tool available.

PM sent.

Nice work sir!

45 min later lol..

20200523_153437.jpg

20200523_162002.jpg

I use the exact same laptop to update.

I lucked out, threw out the one I used to use but was recently given this along with some other antiquated crap. Couldn't get the darn thing to work right, until I realized it was my fault, I had cleaned it up and added Avast... mistake. Deleted Avast this am in Safemode, Bam, worked again.

Thanks again for making these available. The battery I bought on Amazon was apparently DOA.

You need to crank up the baud rate! I always have it set to the max.

I was in no rush, and read a few posts about failures due to speed, so went slow to play it safe. Actually went by fast, because as soon as it started I heard the wife drop a pizza sauce glass bottle grenade on the kitchen floor. After cleaning that up and vacuuming the millions of glass shrapnel shards up, a few times, it was almost finished.

No problem, i have a good reliable supply of them. They are made by Panasonic to. Also for anyone thinking of using a different type battery and changing the holder. Don't, There's a reason this type of battery was used with prism cards. The BR series batteries are much less likely to leak.

Time is running out for update processes locked in to old crappy windows laptops ha ha

just the installer that is stuck on the old windows

Well, it took all afternoon but this finally happened. New LED translight, LCD monitor, major mods on the bracket kit I bought with the monitor ( Not happy with the poorly designed adapter kit brackets but I made lemonade anyway with it and the original brackets). All wired in and tomorrow going to start on switches and find out why it burns fuses. Wish me luck.

IMG_20200524_160225275 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200524_202451430_HDR (resized).jpg

IMG_20200524_201213985_HDR (resized).jpg

IMG_20200524_201203100_HDR (resized).jpg

What was the issue with the monitor kit?
Who did you buy from?
What did you have to mod?

The brackets they suggested I buy with the monitor (I don't want to bad mouth anyone here on pinside, trying to be positive) were to mount the LCD in an arcade cabinet I think. I had to cut the back side of the brackets off, drill holes in the LCD adapter kit and take the frame off the old monitor and use both to mount the LCD. I didn't use half of the brackets on the conversion kit. I bought a complete 20" led light to replace the factory T8 assembly. If I had to do it again I would buy a flat piece of mind steel, cut out where the LCD mounts and drill holes for the LCD and where the plate mounts to the cabinet, paint it all black and be done.

Working on the black vuk, found one of the opto sensors black and the other clear/rose colored. The black one is burnt out, right?

IMG_20200525_211019214 (resized).jpgIMG_20200525_211024594 (resized).jpg

No not right

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Category_Code=OP&Product_Code=PPS-A-14232
Photo Trans Assy (Receiver) A-14232 is Dark colour
InfraRed transmitter board is A-14231 is lighter colour
Some camera's phone can see the transmitter light

How Can I tell a Transmitter from a Receiver?
In case you have optos laying around and you don't know if they are transmitters or receivers, a simple diode test with a DMM across the leads will reveal which LED type it is. A transmitter will check about 1.5 across the leads one way, open (no reading) the other way. A receiver will check open (no reading) either direction unless you shine a flashlight on it, then it will check open one way and shorted (0) when the leads are reversed.

SOLD I found another complete set of new original RFM playfield plastics. this is a complete set except for any of the promo items (11 key chains).
$80 plus shipping.

all pieces still have the protective plastic on them and the set also includes an additional set of slings and inlane plastics
F9D737FC-6B5C-4028-89B0-1009328FA728 (resized).jpeg

Sorry to ask , I just picked up a RFM. Is there a type of cleaner I should or should not use on the playfield glass?

I just use Windex and a cotton t-shirt.

Doesn't Windex have ammonia in it which can react badly with the metallic coating on Pin2k glass?
I use old Windex Advanced... which afaik was discontinued.

I use this (with a microfiber cloth) for all my PDI and PB2K glass.
F985D2AD-1FB1-4AFD-A808-85926569EA91 (resized).jpeg

Sorry, I use "Ammonia free Windex"

Cool, thanks. I use an ammonia free product on my invisaglass. I kind of figured the p2k glass should at least get the same but I just wanted to check as I didn’t see anything posted about it and I don’t know if it needed something more special. I know the p2k glass is hard to replace lol. Thanks and have a great weekend all.

That's a deal right here for anyone needing plastics.

All depends on what your system adjustments (tournament) and feature adjustments are set to, installing v2.x will give extra features also.

What version are you running?? My versions (from v2 onwards) make things much harder. Saucer lights are not given for nothing like before for example! Anyway, i suggest you read the update notes to find out.

To make things harder: set the outlanes to fully open, adjust settings so it becomes harder (and install Applejuices software), don't let the ball stop when lighting a lock or shooting a loop, so it keeps speed. A game that's too easy for a player is never good.

Why change the hardware?
Seriously... if it' an't broke... don't fix it.

Update the software to Applejuice's latest version. It makes the game much harder. I can put up a couple billion with ease on the original software. It's not nearly as easy with the updates.

So I just got a RFM, where do you get this new software that is being talked about?

It's available on mypinballs.com - from there you have to either wait for Applejuices (that's his Pinside handle) software to be released to allow an RFM to be updated via a common PC or MAC or snag a PUB card from someone with the software on there and update, or use the old XP laptop/fupdate method to update the software.....PUB card is the best method for certain - there are folks that can put that software on the PUB (for a nominal fee)....RFM game play has increased exponentially with the software update.....

There is no need to buy a PUB card. For code that is now getting frequent updates, it makes no sense to own one. Update over serial takes just a few minutes, and you don't even have to crack open the computer case (like you would with the PUB card).

Exactly. That's what I did... Serial over usb.

Or wait for applejuice 's new updating software and do it for a "donation".

What does that imply?

Follow this tutorial:
https://brianpeek.com/pinball-2000-software-update-with-windows-7-x64/

If it doesn’t work on the serial port in the coin door, try connecting it directly to the PC. If needs to communicate to Port 1, if plugging in directly to the computer it is possible that the cable on the motherboard is not plugged into COM1. In that case, simply plug it into the correct port (Pin needs to be switched off for that!).

This is why I suggest the PUB - I've done it both ways and PUB is the winner - takes no time at all (<90 seconds) and you don't need anything else....the other method can be troublesome and for me took every bit of 30mins or so....just ask someone if they'll send you their PUB (it likely has been updated) and pay them to rent it and send it back....I had a friends PUB updated then offered to folks that had RFM in my area - that's how we did it....made life simple...

And also why i've spent time creating a brand new update program!

Make sure you have a USB to NULL serial cable. I bought 2 different ones off Amazon because the first one purchased was not a NULL crossover cable.

The null modem is exterior.
Just wire the cable properly or get a null modem cable. It's only 3 lines. RX->TX, TX->RX, GND-GND

Or buy a null modem "adapter" when you buy the usb to serial converter.

Hello everyone. Im hoping someone can just verify my thoughs are correct before I try to update my RFM to 2.21.

Ive got a very stock RFM Machine(original computer and all). I have previously updated the code on this machine using an old computer and null modem db9 cable and the existing pb2k update program(I think I got it off planetary pinballs website). Can I just download the latest 2.21 code from mypinballs.com and using the same computer and cable setup as before, update my game to 2.21?

Thank you for the help,

-Tom