Anyone have a spare back door for a RFM? Mine never came with one and before I make a new one I figured I'd ask in case someone has one laying around.

I don’t think that I made myself clear, I have one (it’s an official Bally service part) but
I don’t remember where I got it, what the part no. is or what it’s officially called (after watching the video, it's called a dedicated service mirror)
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like I stated prior, I’ve left the club and am cataloging all the NOS parts that I have to sell (over $3500 worth of parts)

Daymn.... Clever. Never thought of using the translite.

Are you sure someone didn't just flog you some square cut perspex translite size and say, yeah these are original wms parts.... ha ha. Just joking, good luck with the parts sales

Progress on the new updater software. List of software update files working and list of computer specific serial devices working. Also cleaned up the pin2k logo

Still lots to do though

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very nice work (as always)

Amazing progress!

They seemed to put so much thought into this system. I can only assume that some of the ideas in these games weren't adopted by Stern and others, later, because of cost?

A question:

Does anyone know if instead of a BR2335 I can use a CR2335 for a PRISM card? The BR2335 is quite hard to get. When I google, I find this:
"Characteristically, CR type batteries begin with a slightly higher voltage than BR during discharge. However, as a CR cell discharges, the operating voltage drops over time because of the rise in internal impedance."
I'm not sure if that can be a problem for the PRISM board?

Edit: I know found this: https://www.master-instruments.com.au/files/knowledge-centre/engineering/guides-and-selection-charts/panasonic___selecting_the_right_lithium_battery_br_or_cr_series.pdf
It looks like it's safer to find a BR2335.

Don’t use a cr type they are not as good and can leak. Br type was Used for a reason

I have good stock of them (br2325) and a quality make to - Panasonic

Almost there... Will do the update and hold off on shaker installation until the cable arrives

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Cleaning up nice. Almost there.. That upper PF took some time to clean and assembly back properly. I already can't wait to play it! What was on the front of that ball catcher assembly? Was it mylar or something? Mine seems to be worn off.

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I think there was a foam pad attached to the front of the ball catcher.

It's not foam... just a thin plastic.

I used a strip of black Gorilla brand duct tape

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Looking good. One suggestion is a black rubber kit works better on this game especially up the top as white rubbers when new can interfere with the graphic projection seemless nature alittle

Nice cleanup job looks great

Do you sell them? If not, no problem: I'll find one somewhere. Just wondering if you'd mind selling one (or more, if others are interested too).

PS: The PRISM separator arrived. I'll find out how to use it when I have a BR-battery .

Is duct tape enough? My plastic is missing as well, I wondered if it would be bad when the balls hit that iron bar a lot.

A problem I have, is that the ramp flap isn't always high enough. Most of the time it is, but sometimes it doesn't come up high enough to be able to make the shot, so you'll have to wait for it to lower and rise again (sometimes that happens only when you lose the ball ). I already tried adjusting the ramp-up switch a little, but maybe I'll have to do that some more.

Go get foam door seal in the proper width. Cut it to fit. It's easy and it is invisible while offering cushion so the ball doesn't get so beat up. A $5 fix.

Thanks! I'll be picking your brain next! I'm on game version 1.5 haven't tackled the battle of updating it yet!

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Thanks! Great idea!

Another good idea! I think I have some of that laying around

I put black painters tape in the gap of the metal to stop light bleed through. Its worked really well preventing areas of the display from being washed out.

Thanks Applejuice for the feedback, I know it was black originally and will take a closer look. I have very dark red led's back there also to keep it dark, and my translite is not backlit and shining in your eyes.

I also want to thank you for all the work you are doing to expand the programming of this game. I have not taken the plunge yet, but may in the future.

First connection tests

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Yes I sell them £5 each plus postage. I can get as many as needed no worries

I attached a pic of the Black Gorilla tape after about 1000 games. I also did not like the idea of the balls hitting bare metal straight on. I think it is holding up well.

I also attached a pic of the central flap solenoid assembly to show the adjustment slot that works for my game. It looks like it is adjusted all the way up. I also added a rubber ring in the gap at the end of the shaft to prevent it from sticking in the up position.

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Bluetooth?!?!?

Great, I'll send you a PM.

Thanks. Always good to have information and suggestions.

I bought a sheet of black "ball drop dead" foam (about 3 mm thick), cut a strip fitting the ball catcher front, added double adhesive at the back of the foam and pressed it in place. It has been there for about two years now and lots of plays, still haven't fell of and no sign of wear.

Also, I like the fact that the ball drop straight down when hitting the front, instead of bouncing back like it did before I added the foam.
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What problem did the adjustment slot solve for you?

I'm looking with interest at the rubber ring you crammed in there. Creative! I too have had issues from time to time with the ramp sticking up, even though everything is clean and adjusted as well as I can get it. I think the last thing I did which seemed to work was to cut down an old flipper spring (so the spring was not nearly as long) and put that onto the plunger. Idea was to add a bit of stored energy to the mechanism when the ramp is in the up position, so when the solenoid is de-energized then the ramp has some "incentive" to begin dropping down.

I fixed my ramp sticking issue by installing a new ramp flap, I had to anyway the other one was cracking. The new ramp flaps have a little more spring to them and there is more tension on the plunger when ramp is in the up position, have not had any issues with it since installing the new flap, no other mods needed .

Nice! That works as well really good. I'm trying the foam for now see how that works. I guess anything is better than flinging a pinball into a piece of metal!

Well she's all done for now. Chipped and broke a plastic here and there. Very brittle! I played a few games and it's crazy fast now! I couldn't even keep track of the ball at times. It was hitting shit I never seen it hit before. I loved using my Harbor Freight cart to assist getting it in and out of the cabinet. No back breaking here. Next up the monitor mod to brighten it up or if that don't work LCD time. I did a cap kit, flyback, and hot on my monitor so far along with rebuilding the power supply on it and it's still a little soft.

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You need to fix those flippers... that’s not the correct alignment. Align them with the inline ball guides.

I used a nail in the holes in the PF and aligned them with no rubbers on the bats. That's how I've always aligned my flippers?

I always align with the inlanes. There are very few exceptions where that is not the ideal position. When in doubt, check the flyer for what position the mfg is shipping them at.

I tend to do that as well. My No Fear has no holes at all on the PF. I lined them up with the inlanes and it wound up being to low and I could hardly make any shots with too much aggressive play in the flipper area. If you look at my pics you'll see where they were originally lined up but I saw the holes there and broke out my nail and adjusted them that way. Play is a little different then before.

Hi All-

Just signed up Saturday but Ive had an RFM (two actually) since 2000. The first one was HUO but I traded it away when I moved across country so in 2005 I bought this one off ebay. It had been on-route in France and while worn nothing too serious. Worst problem was a worn flap, which cracked and got to the point the game wasn't really playable so it was time to put in the SWE1 kit and restore the RFM components. That was about 12 years ago, but this past weekend I finally got to work on it. After replacing the flap and cleaning the playfield I swapped out the daughter cards and - oops. Software needs to be updated.
No problem- already have a PIB loaded for SWE1, although I prefer to just leave it as such in case I want to put that kit back in some time. So I already arranged for another PIB but in the meantime I realized that I had a laptop with the proper ports running WIN 2000 sitting in the closet. Somehow that thing came up and I thought I was home free until I realized that this machine is MISSING the port (and the cable behind it). Also MISSING is the playfield switch and door interlock. That I knew - I just hadn't thought about what the electromechanical counter put in by the route operator to satisfy French auditors (I presume) had taken the place of.
So, for future reference- does anybody have the wiring harness and door interlocks they want to sell?

Also for general interest- this counter shows 35319 games on it. That's nearly 30,000 plays as a route machine- and the playfield shows wear but not that much! I already messed up my first attempt at a post here so Ill add additional photos in a minute. For now- just the bracket with no connector. You can see the counter behind it. Also a particularly dreadful hack by the route "repair" man. Note the SCREW through the broken plastic over the stroke of luck! No wonder that saucer is missing!

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Another interesting detail - that high score came with the machine. YVE got an honest 1,131,988,200 on a three ball route game. Im RJH. My best score ever was when I got through attack Mars on a route machine in our Elks Lodge in New Mexico back in 1999. That was only 800 million something though. In my defense it was BEFORE I had a home machine.

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For updating you can directly attach the null-modem cable to the pc in the 'backbox' of the game.

Thanks Sven- I figured as much, I assume that I just hook directly to the 9 pin connector.
What REALLY annoys me is the missing switch- the other problem- which I don't think relates to the software update, is that the left flipper isn't working. I cant easily test the solenoids since the switch is missing altogether. I know the power board and flipper contacts are fine since it worked two days ago with the SWE1 kit in place.
Falling back on my old EM skills - power the bastard up and don't get electrocuted!

Wow, very cool. I've tried to plug in headphones but didn't get them to work. I'm assuming I need to plug into an amplifier and then to the headphones?

I can only speak for my Nucore setup using a desktop PC. I am running the external powered JBL speakers and headphones with the amp at the same time. The PC could not power the headphones without the amp, when running the JBL at the same time. The headphones did work by themselves just like headphones in your home PC.

I have finally gotten around to putting in a shaker and knocker. I took the solenoid bracket assy off a scrap DE Playboy playfield I have. 23-800 might a bit much but we'll see. Now I'm just waiting on printer ink to come in so I can try my hand at putting a water slide decal on a replacement insert. On that note, should I put a piece of mylar over that insert once I glue the insert w/decal back in?

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Another update on the new updater program.

Here is a screen shot of the first successful packet transmission between my mac and my test original pin2k computer. Possibly the first ever native (see below) packet transmission that isnt windows based.

The program has its own completely rewritten packet transmission system internally so that cross compiling the program will be easier. I am not using the fupdate program at all. Mainly this is because recompiling that for multiple systems seems a waste of time and secondly i want to be more independent than including old wms tools even though that program was released with the source freely available. It should be stated though the the fupdate source is an invaluable resource in terms of working out how this stuff works!! Thanks to williams yet again.

Still some hurdles to overcome, but to get a successful acknowledgement form the pin2k computer is a good step.

Another bonus for writing this tool is i have learnt a lot more (again) about the pin2k system and have some more ideas on how to possibly save valuable flash ram space for old machines on future updates.

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Cheers to doing it right! This is great !!!