(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

5 years ago



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#3501 61 days ago
Quoted from zerbam:

still looking for this plastic...........anyone?[quoted image]

I may have a spare. let me check when I get home

#3502 61 days ago

that would be great.......thanks for looking

#3503 61 days ago

sorry, this is what I found

B8E17E11-5F4D-4369-840A-4B7EA33572E7 (resized).jpeg
#3504 61 days ago

thanks anyway!!!!!!!!!!

#3505 61 days ago

There is always one customer that comes in after a group buy has been ordered.
If you can't find one domestically; send me a PM. I don't have a "next group buy" date; so it may be mid year before we have enough interest to do another group buy.

#3506 59 days ago
Quoted from zerbam:

unfortunately they do not ship to the U.S. unless you go thru ZITT here on pinside

I use a mail forwarding service out of Germany when I order. It's not the fastest, but it works.

#3507 57 days ago

I don't see it in the manual, so perhaps it was an addition with @applejuice 's update? I'm running 2.1

What does Family Mode do, specifically?

I'm thinking of taking this thing to an elementary school fair/fundraiser I help run... the theme this year is Space/Reach for the Stars, so I wonder if I can make this thing appropriate for kids as young as kindergarten?

#3508 57 days ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

What does Family Mode do, specifically?

well, never tried it, but seems quite sure is to cut off some bad sound words/language...

#3509 56 days ago

I want to replace my reed switches but I dont see how they are secured.
How can I remove the two black rubber thingies holding the switches in place without destroying anything?

#3510 56 days ago
Quoted from Dexje:

I want to replace my reed switches but I dont see how they are secured.
How can I remove the two black rubber thingies holding the switches in place without destroying anything?

Here to help! Just pull 'em off.....they aren't threaded - they are rubber.....and the MRS sort of 'floats' on the posts.....let us know how they work!!!

#3511 56 days ago

I think family mode disables some of the off colour remarks in mars kneeds women (boob jokes) and maybe the Bill Clinton impersonator in the first scene.

#3512 56 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Here to help! Just pull 'em off.....they aren't threaded - they are rubber.....and the MRS sort of 'floats' on the posts.....let us know how they work!!!

I replaced all three reed switches with your repro ones. detection of the lock shot is better for me now (~80% i would guess).
sadly now kick outs of the scoop register as shots to the lock shot lane, which consistently reward things like hit martians when the scoop shoots the ball back.

#3513 56 days ago
Quoted from Dexje:

I replaced all three reed switches with your repro ones. detection of the lock shot is better for me now (~80% i would guess).
sadly now kick outs of the scoop register as shots to the lock shot lane, which consistently reward things like hit martians when the scoop shoots the ball back.

Interesting....what you can do is swap MRS' around - one is slightly more sensitive than the others...you can test this by going into test mode and waving the ball around in the area of the 3 MRS and see how they register - as you found - it's easy to swap them- and that should resolve the problem....if not...I can swap an MRS with you for a less sensitive one....but try that first....

#3514 56 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Interesting....what you can do is swap MRS' around - one is slightly more sensitive than the others...you can test this by going into test mode and waving the ball around in the area of the 3 MRS and see how they register - as you found - it's easy to swap them- and that should resolve the problem....if not...I can swap an MRS with you for a less sensitive one....but try that first....

Oh and of course my partner reminds me that the sensor is more to one side than the other - so simply by spinning the MRS 180degs the other way may actually be the best, first, thing to do! Do me a favor too - send a close up pic of your diverter - I'm curious what rubber is BEHIND your diverter - we've found that most RFM rubber kits are wrong - using a post rubber behind the diverter rather than the rubber ring that should be there - this makes the diverter sit farther back - thus widening the lane and causing less registers....

#3516 53 days ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Figured I’d post this here because it applies to this game too. I use an $8 “bent plastic” DMD glare guard on my Star Wars Episode 1 to eliminate the translite glare from the playfield glass. Lift the translite, insert the guard into the channel and set the translite back in place.
3rd pic show the reflection of the translite on the playfield glass with the guard off.
Last pic shows the glass with the guard on.

I did this as well and can say its a great improvement

#3517 49 days ago
Quoted from zerbam:

still looking for this plastic...........anyone?[quoted image]

A sign shop made me one in black plastic. That area of the game is so dark, you hardly notice it's not full color. zerbam, I might be able to get another one if you're interested.

#3518 49 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Oh and of course my partner reminds me that the sensor is more to one side than the other - so simply by spinning the MRS 180degs the other way may actually be the best, first, thing to do! Do me a favor too - send a close up pic of your diverter - I'm curious what rubber is BEHIND your diverter - we've found that most RFM rubber kits are wrong - using a post rubber behind the diverter rather than the rubber ring that should be there - this makes the diverter sit farther back - thus widening the lane and causing less registers....

turned both of the first set of switches around - now scoop kick outs arent triggering anymore

#3519 47 days ago

beaten my son with 139 martians !!! had 3 very good martians attack on the same game, never happend before like this...
meanwhile final score of this game was poor with a bit less than 500.000.000 pts

#3520 47 days ago
Quoted from Dexje:

turned both of the first set of switches around - now scoop kick outs arent triggering anymore

I just saw this, excellent news!! Thanks for the feedback!

#3521 42 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

You’re harness looks to be connected right. Just make sure you have the motor connected to the yellow/orange leg of the harness.

Richochet - I finally had a day for pinball repair and returned to this. Indeed you are right; I must have been measuring the wrong colors. Got the shaker hooked up finally with applejuice 's 2.2 code; the shaker is awesome!

I bought the recommended Data East knocker and in the test mode, it worked, but also popped the fuse immediately (101). I just wired it up to the harness without a diode; is adding that what other people are finding necessary?

I also finally adjusted/cleaned (I hope) the main center shot switch. This game loses quite a bit without the ability to make that.

One of the MRS switches was definitely bad; your replacement worked great sonic ; thank you!

#3522 42 days ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

One of the MRS switches was definitely bad; your replacement worked great sonic ; thank you!

Hey! Fantastic news...thanks man!

#3523 42 days ago

Thanks for the feedback everyone!

#3524 42 days ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

Richochet - I finally had a day for pinball repair and returned to this. Indeed you are right; I must have been measuring the wrong colors. Got the shaker hooked up finally with applejuice 's 2.2 code; the shaker is awesome!
I bought the recommended Data East knocker and in the test mode, it worked, but also popped the fuse immediately (101). I just wired it up to the harness without a diode; is adding that what other people are finding necessary?

Yes the diode is necessary.

#3525 41 days ago
Quoted from longtemps1:

I just picked up some from Marco Specialties, 5647-12693-19. Same part number as original Williams, though it is really an equivalent. You will need to reuse the original diodes or buy those also (IN4004). I needed to replace 2 out of 3 upper rollover switches plus the one in the right outlane on the machine I just acquired.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-19

This is what I should be buying to replace the rollover switches in the upper playfield lanes?

1 week later
#3526 32 days ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Welcome to the club, its a fun game with great humor.
Regarding the dark illumination, I've Always thought the pf is rather dark so the tv reflection would be easily visible. Too much ambient light and the screen picture will look bland.

Yeah, understand that it's intentionally quite dark but then again why are 555's bright and 44's dim?
As I did have that one hiccup of 8A column I replaced its TIP. The original had an odd small black blob on its gate pin, a bit like melted plastic. Transistor itself looked fine and didn't see anything wrong with it externally and it measured fine too. Switching the TIP didn't affect the brightness and haven't experienced any more of those hiccups either so, dunno.

I don't want LEDs on this thing in any place, not even to inserts as they're dimmed too and flicker like hell with LEDs. Well ok, I did place LEDs to those two hazardous GI spots where incandescent bulbs get blown to pieces by the ball every now and then.

About computers and monitors. My original PC and CRT were okayish but wanted to preserve the originals and went for Pinbox, 2.2 software and 24" LCD (Syncmaster 2493hm). Monitor was a perfect fit without any modding. Width is spot on with absolutely no play and then I just left it resting against the lower screws of original monitor assy. Will make some small clamping brackets for it tho for transporting.
Update to 2.2 was definitely worth it and really like the changes it comes with by default. My game came with 1.5 and kept that on the original PC. Usually I prefer everything as original but these changes make RFM even better.

Must say, the old Samsung LCD I threw in is much brighter than my CRT was and now the reflection is somewhat at the level of what it should be. This could be because the CRT needs recapping but mostly because I don't have the original PF glass, but a normal smoke tinted one. Anyhow the reflection is so good I have zero need to pay the money for a repro p2k glass. Tinting doesn't much affect the brightness on the lower PF either (tested to compare with a clear glass).

As for the PC I went for SSF Optiplex 980 (RFM running on i5 feels a bit strange idea). Bought Optiplex 970 as a spare of spare but also tested with old HP Elitebook 2530p with its dock that has a parallel port. That worked fine too as the external parallel port still showed up at address 0x378.

Installation was a breeze, thanks to this guy here:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=159188.0

After installing with the pinbox installation guide, I just blindly followed his steps and everything worked, except for the screensaver disabling which I had to change. This is what I used:

sudo su
sudo sed -i -re 's/([a-z]{2}\.)?archive.ubuntu.com|security.ubuntu.com/old-releases.ubuntu.com/g' /etc/apt/sources.list
sudo apt-get update
apt-get purge lxdm
mv /etc/lxdm /etc/lxdm.orig
apt-get install lxdm
cp /root/pinbox/scripts/pinbox.desktop /etc/xdg/autostart
rm /etc/init.d/pinbox

reboot

### sudo apt-get autoremove --purgexscreensaver* <-- not working, use next instead
sudo apt-get remove xscreensaver

reboot

#3527 32 days ago

ok, surelly my last com here as RFM should leave home tonight... for sure, this one will be in the top "i miss it" pins list... but have no other choice, only 2 places/pins home, i have to make them turn around to simply play something else

and while i'm here, a last word to Jim (including again a big TANX & BRAVO for the update code)

i had this situation this morning :
not sure how the code is working to check conditions to start wizard mode (seems its just after having changed mission, at the begining of the next/new one, and not at the end of the previous one), as :

all was done to get ATTACK MARS, mission than change for the next one which was HAPPY HOUR (with DRUNK FLIPPERS)
than directly ATTACK MARS become available with the center jump shoot, which i start, and than i keep the inverted flippers for all the WIZARD MODE (i won anyway, and beating my HS lol)...
not sure you know about this, not sure you have to correct it (because it was unusual & fun to play it as it), but almost you know it happends

WP_20200304_12_04_28_Pro (resized).jpg

WP_20200304_12_05_16_Pro (resized).jpg

to all RFM owners, have a nice day & enjoy your pin

#3528 31 days ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

ok, surelly my last com here as RFM should leave home tonight... for sure, this one will be in the top "i miss it" pins list... but have no other choice, only 2 places/pins home, i have to make them turn around to simply play something else
and while i'm here, a last word to Jim (including again a big TANX & BRAVO for the update code)
i had this situation this morning :
not sure how the code is working to check conditions to start wizard mode (seems its just after having changed mission, at the begining of the next/new one, and not at the end of the previous one), as :
all was done to get ATTACK MARS, mission than change for the next one which was HAPPY HOUR (with DRUNK FLIPPERS)
than directly ATTACK MARS become available with the center jump shoot, which i start, and than i keep the inverted flippers for all the WIZARD MODE (i won anyway, and beating my HS lol)...
not sure you know about this, not sure you have to correct it (because it was unusual & fun to play it as it), but almost you know it happends
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
to all RFM owners, have a nice day & enjoy your pin

Thanks for the feedback. Yes there are some scenarios where drunk flippers if enabled don't disable when changing to other modes, due to the transition process and the way the mode start works. I will look into making it more seamless when i have time.

#3529 31 days ago

no prob, as pinball enthousiast, its a logical/normal/friendly thing to give you feedback about your work

and again, i had fun to play all the wizard mode as it, than not sure this has to be "corrected" !?

++ and may be see you later, as my RFM did leave home yesterday...

#3530 27 days ago

Hi team, I’m finally getting around to hooking up my shaker and knocker in RFM, but I’m unsure about my shakers wiring and whether I need a diode or not?

My shaker (stern 502-5027-00 rev B) is wired up, blue to orange & red to yellow on the RFM harness. Is that correct?
Do I need to add a diode in here somewhere for the shaker? If so, where physically do I add it?

My knocker (repurposed from my JP), I haven’t wired up yet, because I’m unsure of which way the diode and wiring should be around?
Red to brown & black to blue?

Thanks heaps.

BD51BB15-A54B-4C58-8BAB-4A8DF19CCCBC (resized).jpeg
#3531 27 days ago
Quoted from thesav:

Hi team, I’m finally getting around to hooking up my shaker and knocker in RFM, but I’m unsure about my shakers wiring and whether I need a diode or not?
My shaker (stern 502-5027-00 rev B) is wired up, blue to orange & red to yellow on the RFM harness. Is that correct?
Do I need to add a diode in here somewhere for the shaker? If so, where physically do I add it?
My knocker (repurposed from my JP), I haven’t wired up yet, because I’m unsure of which way the diode and wiring should be around?
Red to brown & black to blue?
Thanks heaps.[quoted image]

https://mypinballs.com/files/rfm-shaker-instructions_v11.pdf

#3532 27 days ago

Hey thanks. I’ve followed these as best I can, but electronics and wiring is not my forte at all..
I’d love to not blow a fuse or a motor etc..
Thanks

#3533 27 days ago
Quoted from thesav:

Hey thanks. I’ve followed these as best I can, but electronics and wiring is not my forte at all..
I’d love to not blow a fuse or a motor etc..
Thanks

Red to yellow, red to brown - looks like your knocker has a diode, your shaker a fuse - I don't see a diode on your shaker however.....

#3534 27 days ago
Quoted from thesav:

Hi team, I’m finally getting around to hooking up my shaker and knocker in RFM, but I’m unsure about my shakers wiring and whether I need a diode or not?
My shaker (stern 502-5027-00 rev B) is wired up, blue to orange & red to yellow on the RFM harness. Is that correct?
Do I need to add a diode in here somewhere for the shaker? If so, where physically do I add it?
My knocker (repurposed from my JP), I haven’t wired up yet, because I’m unsure of which way the diode and wiring should be around?
Red to brown & black to blue?
Thanks heaps.[quoted image]

As an homage to Chris Hutchins, replace the wiring on the knocker and shaker with color-correct wiring. Their short runs. It will cost nominal money and save tons of potential future confusion.

#3535 27 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Red to yellow, red to brown - looks like your knocker has a diode, your shaker a fuse - I don't see a diode on your shaker however.....

Thanks. Do I need to put a diode on the shaker? And if so where do I attach it?

#3536 27 days ago
Quoted from thesav:

Thanks. Do I need to put a diode on the shaker? And if so where do I attach it?

Yes! just like the PDF shows - it really details everything....cathode is the banded side of a diode.....anywhere really......wherever makes best sense....

#3537 27 days ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5647-12693-19
This is what I should be buying to replace the rollover switches in the upper playfield lanes?

To follow up: these worked great.

As regards the knocker:

Quoted from Ricochet:

Yes the diode is necessary.

I sourced a 1N4007 diode then went to go solder it in and hook back up, and lo and behold, there already seems to be one!

IMG_5022 (resized).JPG

That's definitely a diode - I can't bloody see well enough to tell if it's a 1N4007, but I did confirm it was oriented correctly according to the diagram at https://mypinballs.com/files/rfm-shaker-instructions_v11.pdf. But to be sure, I flipped the wired going to the knocker... same deal. I immediately blow a fuse when I start the knocker in test mode.

I'm getting really good at getting to that damn fuse. =)

That's not expected behaviour, right? In other words, testing the knocker isn't blowing your 101 fuse?

Is there any reason to think this diode isn't sufficient? I have a 1N4007 I could swap in instead.

#3538 26 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Yes! just like the PDF shows - it really details everything....cathode is the banded side of a diode.....anywhere really......wherever makes best sense....

I ended up mounting the diode on the terminals right near the armature of the shaker - just enough clearance - woohoo.

Everything worked brilliantly, didn’t even blow a fuse or transistor! Thanks @applejuice for making this whole thing happen, for the software updates, the loom and all your blood sweat and tears. Thanks @sonic & others for helping me out along the way & answering my somewhat dumb questions.

This is a Really well executed setup & I love every moment of it. Thanks heaps everyone!

#3539 26 days ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

To follow up: these worked great.
As regards the knocker:

I sourced a 1N4007 diode then went to go solder it in and hook back up, and lo and behold, there already seems to be one!
[quoted image]
That's definitely a diode - I can't bloody see well enough to tell if it's a 1N4007, but I did confirm it was oriented correctly according to the diagram at https://mypinballs.com/files/rfm-shaker-instructions_v11.pdf. But to be sure, I flipped the wired going to the knocker... same deal. I immediately blow a fuse when I start the knocker in test mode.
I'm getting really good at getting to that damn fuse. =)
That's not expected behaviour, right? In other words, testing the knocker isn't blowing your 101 fuse?
Is there any reason to think this diode isn't sufficient? I have a 1N4007 I could swap in instead.

I’m a bit confused. The diode I’ve been talking about needs to go across the motor. The installation pdf shows the proper direction of the diode across the motor. You also need a diode across the solenoid and clearly you have that.

Orange and Yellow go to the motor, Blue and Brown go to the solenoid. That’s it... F101 has never blown on my unit. The only fuse that ever blew was the one inline with motor and this was before the diode across the motor was added.

Make sure everything is soldered in before you test this thing. You don’t want any loose or intermittent connections. That may not end well with solenoids and shakers going off.
6A7C98E3-49BD-4F43-B2EA-D610586A0101 (resized).jpeg
A4AA5384-6E78-40C4-ABDF-9E578F016DD4 (resized).jpeg

#3540 26 days ago
Quoted from thesav:

I ended up mounting the diode on the terminals right near the armature of the shaker - just enough clearance - woohoo.
Everything worked brilliantly, didn’t even blow a fuse or transistor! Thanks @applejuice for making this whole thing happen, for the software updates, the loom and all your blood sweat and tears.

Thanks for the message. Yes, you shouldn't have any issues with fuses or transistors if you follow the instructions. Also, yes there has been plenty of blood sweat and tears making all this stuff work, code wise especially... There isn't much space available in the flash ram, so lots of ingenious ideas had to be invoked..! But theres plenty of new features in the game now and not just the shaker stuff.

#3541 26 days ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

To follow up: these worked great.
As regards the knocker:

I sourced a 1N4007 diode then went to go solder it in and hook back up, and lo and behold, there already seems to be one!
[quoted image]
That's definitely a diode - I can't bloody see well enough to tell if it's a 1N4007, but I did confirm it was oriented correctly according to the diagram at https://mypinballs.com/files/rfm-shaker-instructions_v11.pdf. But to be sure, I flipped the wired going to the knocker... same deal. I immediately blow a fuse when I start the knocker in test mode.
I'm getting really good at getting to that damn fuse. =)
That's not expected behaviour, right? In other words, testing the knocker isn't blowing your 101 fuse?
Is there any reason to think this diode isn't sufficient? I have a 1N4007 I could swap in instead.

My suggestion here would be to solder everything first, then work out if your issue is driver board related or not. You can easily test the knocker directly by using a lead on the ground path. If it activates ok doing this then you know its driver board and possibly transistor related. No fuses should ever be blowing when they are correct values really. When making these updates lots and lots and lots of testing was done first!!

#3542 26 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I’m a bit confused. The diode I’ve been talking about needs to go across the motor. The installation pdf shows the proper direction of the diode across the motor. You also need a diode across the solenoid and clearly you have that.

Yeah, the shaker is working fine, no fuse blowing now.

It's only the knocker that's an issue (and, as you say, I do seem to have the solenoid). Blows F101 whenever I try to test it.

Quoted from applejuice:

My suggestion here would be to solder everything first, then work out if your issue is driver board related or not. You can easily test the knocker directly by using a lead on the ground path. If it activates ok doing this then you know its driver board and possibly transistor related.

applejuice I'm sorry if I'm being thick here, but can you give me a little more detail... using a lead on the ground path? One connector to the knocker to ground somehow? But where should the other wire go?

1 week later
#3543 20 days ago

Sorry to have to say goodbye to owning this game. Over the past year I have been trying to find another RFM for a friend. He's not a pinhead, but said if he ever buys one it would be this game. I'm in the process of moving and reduced the collection to move, and made the decision to trade this game away to him for the purchase of a new refrigerator with delivery, 5yr service plan and installation including water line for ice. Just crossing one more item off the moving to-do list, and I can visit my friend any time I want to get my fix of RFM.

89835744_10219032924191695_6189814190190886912_o (resized).jpg
#3544 19 days ago

unfortunately, I'm leaving the club as well (to make room for my incoming R&M). thankfully, the machine is going to someone that I know that has a nice collection and lives reasonably close by

depending on he decides to purchase from me from my huge collection of extra nos parts, I may be posting a huge list of parts for sale

#3545 17 days ago

I was thinking to sell mine some months ago, but I love this pin too much and I dit put so much effort ($, time and nice mods..2.2 upgrade) on it.
This was my 1st pin.
So I reached an agreement with a local pin repair shop that sold it to me years ago, 5 mins walk away. Now the pin is stored, maintained for free in a safe place and proudly displayed there, and in exchange I gave permission to use it in tournaments and be used as sample of a nice RFM. My high score still there and agreed not to reset my high scores, something less than 1 billion.
Overall I miss this pin, my son expecially...but had no space for more than two pins at home and TZ now is the new one (and son adores this too..).
Well, I would say three of them were ok at home, but it was me and my son against The Supreme Apartment Leader

Long live Revenge from Mars! I walk quite often in the shop when I pass by, and spend some time with this beloved pin of mine, something like meeting and old friend for a beer!
And I really love too watching people playing my pin, as it really attracts the casual&curious pin enthusiast entering the shop, and two of them did purchase a RFM too.

So...sad to see these RFM of yours leave...but I fully understand, life needs more square feet space and priorities, sometimes.
Cheers

#3546 15 days ago

I've been looking for the lower lane playfield plastic A-23137 high and low, but it doesn't seem to be available in any store.
It's the plastic closest to the ball shooter (I got the upper plastic in good condition).

Anyone here that have a used one? Even a scratched plastic is interesting as long as it isn't broken or too ugly.

I'm aware that I can buy the whole plastic set, but this is the only plastic that I need, so I don't want to do that.

RFM (resized).jpg
#3547 15 days ago

For reference, here is a photo of my shaker and knocker installation.

I just kept the stern board in there as well since it has the diodes built in. The data east knocker also has a diode built in. With the stern board you can short the ceramic resistor for more shaker power. All you have to do is run an extra wire and parallel to bridge both points of the ceramic resiator. Be sure to use a thick wire given the current going through it. In the end I decided that without the wire I was good with the power of the shaker.
IMG_20191210_213434 (resized).jpgIMG_20191210_185326 (resized).jpgIMG_20191210_194757 (resized).jpg

#3548 11 days ago
Quoted from thesav:

I ended up mounting the diode on the terminals right near the armature of the shaker - just enough clearance - woohoo.
Everything worked brilliantly, didn’t even blow a fuse or transistor! Thanks @applejuice for making this whole thing happen, for the software updates, the loom and all your blood sweat and tears. Thanks @sonic & others for helping me out along the way & answering my somewhat dumb questions.
This is a Really well executed setup & I love every moment of it. Thanks heaps everyone!

do you mind posting a pic of the diode mount on the shaker? thx!

#3549 8 days ago

Trying to change the BR2325 battery, the boards are stuck together pretty tight, is there a easier way to separate these other than brute force?

#3550 8 days ago
Quoted from kdunbar:

Trying to change the BR2325 battery, the boards are stuck together pretty tight, is there a easier way to separate these other than brute force?

If you have them started you can try sticking a small flathead screwdriver in the gap between the connectors and twisting to help pry them apart. Just go very slowly while sticking a finger in between the boards to help pry them apart.

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Gweem's Mods
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Egg Harbor Township, NJ
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
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