I should post this in the tech section as well, but I figured that I ask the RFM experts here first.

I purchased my RFM from the OP last fall, and it was working well and then three months ago started acting up. It was hit or miss with regards to even powering up. Sometimes, the game would power up and then suddenly shut down. Then a couple of months ago, it didn't even power up.

I checked out the CPU and reseated the boards and power supply, nothing. I then lifted the playfield and dangerously played with the wiring while it was turned on and discovered it was a connector issue with (? part name) the power diverter, the box between the power plug and transformer. The molex connector had a loose connection and wiring, probably from being knocked around by the wiring bundle each time the playfield is removed and placed back in. When I jiggle the molex connector, the machine powers up, but doesn't hold on even while holding the molex. While giggling the molex, I sometimes see a small spark at one or two of the wired connections. The fuse has been replaced even though it never blew.

I reseated all the wire loops, even re-soldering a couple of the wires that looked a bit loose, but still nothing. I should probably get new molex male pins and rewire everything. Does anyone have any suggestions??? I have sat on this too long now and my son wants a solution so he could get back his favorite game.

Power wiring crop2.jpg

In the picture above, it's the molex connector with the wire loops.

That's your transformer secondary voltage selector. Those come in several different configs to support 220v, 115, and 100v line voltage.

Likely you just have a bad crimp in one of the pins.

Is it really as easy as rewiring with new male pins/crimps?
Should I get a new molex connector too, what part is this even called?
Where do I buy these items?

Yup!
I made a custom one for a 100v line when my TZ was in a location that had only 105v feeds..

I don't know the Molex part number (there were 9-pin and 12-pin throughout the WPC/Pin2000 era, and not sure which one yours has), but you can get one and pins from digikey or mouser. The schematics/manual should have the pinout for the plug in them, showing the different options for different live voltages.

(Note - this is assuming that the loose pin/crimp is in the jumper plug. It's possible it's in the socket in the metal cage..)

I got it fixed via new molex pins from a neighbor. To prevent future issues, I put a plastic box around the voltage selector.

Hello RFMers.

I'm going to be joining your club soon!

I believe my RFM will have software 1.4. According to the revision history, the different between 1.4 and 1.5 is vague. Specifically:

Updated to latest operating system.
Enhanced coin/bill handling and credit system.

So I ask the RFM community 2 questions:

1) Is there any reason to upgrade to 1.5? Or any reason NOT to upgrade?

2) Has anyone had success using Mac with a virtual Windows XP OS (VMWare Fusion based) and a USB to serial adaptor with the update software?

Thanks! Looking forward to hanging out with you...

... Altan

i just joined the club also, got a used conversion kit for my swe1.i just did a successful upgrade to 1.6 with a 16 bit xp comp.
i made my own nul modem cable with info from the web.

i also just ordered a NOS pf from Rick at PPS. he has one left but it has white under the apron. i am putting in a order tomorrow for everything pinball Australia has listed on their site.
once i swap i will restore my old PF and list it, has issues at the pop and the VUK hole. they vuk hole i will fill and paint black and have a cliffy for it, im not skilled enough with my airbrush to do a believable wood grain.

Has anyone found a way to update coding using a pc/notebook without a serial port. I never could get a usb serial cable to work. Is there a null modem usb adapter somewhere?

To be honest, it's far easier to do via PUB card, takes bugger all time !!

Easy to do with a usb nul modem adapter. The only thing you need to do is go into the system menu on your laptop and select the right output on it. I had a tech geek help me, and worked in seconds (modify the serial output address).

Pub card is how I did mine. The data connection near the coin door looks pretty suspect on mine, and the direct plug in of the pub card made it super easy.

Where's the best place to order new t-molding for the cabinet? My Ep 1 t-molding is pretty beat up. Thanks

there's an ebay seller that actually has the correct colored t-molding. here's the link for his auction:
ebay.com link: Pinball 2000 Correct Color Match T Molding

Thanks! Just placed an order.

+1 on the PUB card!!! was super easy and took about a total of 2 minutes.

I just recently scored a RFM in great shape but I found it still had 1.1 software on it!! It couldn't have been easier to update with a null serial cable. I watched blkdg's youtube video on how he did it. My pc connected with the game at once and now it's running 1.6. Can't wait to get this all ship shape. The diagnostics is awesome and I fixed all of the reported issues already. I'll post pics when I get it all dialed in.

Interested in where you got 1.6 software.

Thanks,
Chris

I made the Update Manager packages for RFM 1.6 and SWE1 1.5 about 8 years ago. They should still be floating out there on the net somewhere.... I'll see if I can find a DL link. If not, I can send you the file.

OK, you'll find a couple links here that are still active:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/-D6HXWN8m0Y

_{Post edited by mattosborn: added link}

What's in 1.6?

It looks like the "official" site only goes up to 1.5.

I thought 1.7+ was for tournament stuff... but not clear about 1.6.

1.6 was the last official release.

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/4446/Bally_1999_Revenge_From_Mars_ROM_Revision_History.txt

Interesting...

What was WMS doing releasing Pin2k code in 2003?

I indicated earlier I thought 1.5 was the last official release because on

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/Williams/tech/pin2000/software.html

Version 1.5 is the last one entered...

Question about the RFM serial cable...

Does the serial cable just run from the PC case, down the back of the monitor/cabinet, and then on the left side of the cabinet up to the coin door...

and just hang there?

Meaning it doesn't connect to anything on the coin-door side unless a tech or something plugged something in?

if you rent a PUB card from Rob Anthony, it comes with 1.6 on it. I don't think there is much difference between 1.6 and 1.5

Mine is in a bracket inside the coin door, Just above the interlock switch. You would plug the null modem cable into this to update the game.

Here is a pic:

DSCF8954.JPG

Chris

Chris, perfect! Thanks. I certainly missed this and will connect it properly tonight.

I have a pub card but never have used it. How can you use this without a pc with an eisa socket to plug it in to? Or am I stuck without such an old pc?

If you have the original RFM PC unit in your machine then the PUB card fits into a vacant slot inside the metal box behind your translite (basically like a female JAMMA connector). Has your PUB card got the most recent update on it though?

No I don't even know if it has any. How do you get info onto it in the first place?

You need a Windows computer with an ISA slot to program the PUB card. Why would you buy a PUB card if you had no idea what to do with it?

I know how it works, thought might come across an old pc. Also wanted peripherals that came with p2000 as a collector thing. A bit like why buy a toy and keep it on a box syndrome. I'm sure there's people here with such toys etc.

What caught my eye was maybe there's a way you can do it without the isa pc hence my asking

Another Pin2k 101 question...

How do I get the PC case to tilt out? I see it's on those sliders, but pushing it forward/back or up/down doesn't seem to release it from some locking mechanism. Probably something obvious, but in the 5 minutes I had to check it out ... well ... I didn't figure it out.

Also, what's the big button coming out of the case toward the translite? Is that some sort of reset button?

... Altan

You should be able to lift it up a little bit then pull it forward and down. Unless someone has secured it with a zip tie or something. IIRC, the locking mech for the translite can get in the way too....

The red button on the front of the computer is just another power switch (so you can power down just the computer and leave everything else running).

Best Pictures EVER!!

Is it just me? I played RFM well before I played AFM, and I just can't get into AFM because of it. The call outs are the same, but no great animation to watch, and the shots do not seem to be as much fun. I know I'll get in trouble with the rest of the "real pinball" community, but just wanted to know if anyone else feels this way?

I've never played AFM, don't know anyone who's got one around here and SURE not spending MEGA bucks (9-10 grand Oz money) to find out how the 2 compare
On a side note, i LOVE my RFM and all my non pinhead mates who play it get stuck into it BIG TIME. Out of all my machines it's the one people play first and, usually, either stick with or come straight back to after dabbling with the others!!

Perfect explanation! If you need me to, I can make a quick video.

Chris

I've had just a few SS machines flow thru my basement: Time Machine, Hurricane, F-14....nothing great, but pretty fun games. I recently got my hands on Revenge From Mars and for the first time, I saw my wife play a pinball machine and actually hit the start button again and again and again!

Happy wife, happy life!

I just purchased the movie "TILT: The battle to safe pinball!" and looking forward to it!

on mine, the original owner used a twist-tie to prevent the case from accidentally sliding (probably during a move). check to make sure that on the left and right runners, nothing is impeding the ability to pull the pc case straight out towards you.

you'll want to disconnect the 2 serial cables (one 9-pin and one 25-pin) and the vga cable that connect to the case on the left side

on the right side of the pc case, there is a 6-pin molex connector (for the sound board) that is connected and held in place with a cable management nylon clip. you'll need to unplug that cable and remove it from the nylon clip.

with all 4 cables disconnected, you should be able to pull the case straight out all the way (don't worry it won't fall out), and then it will pivot and rest on the pins at the back of the case. reach around to the back side of the case (near the right) and unplug the power cable. once you've disconnected the power cable, you should be able to lift the case up over the metal runners and out of the head.

rfm - removing the pc case.jpg
according to the manual, there *may* be 2 screws at the end of the metal slides locking the pc case in place.

edit:
as mattosborn stated, the red button is a reset switch for the pc. I tend to disconnect everything with the power off so I never touch the reset button. however, if you accidentally bump it, you'll need to press it again to turn the pc when you turn on the machine if the monitor doesn't "come to life"

I have a question about updates: What is the latest sound version available? I've updated the software to 1.6 and the sound says 1.2. I'm assuming the sound version 1.2 is the latest?

Thanks for all the posts about the PC case.

I'm going to look at it tonight and see if I have 5v on pin 9 of the VGA connector...

Just joined the club over the weekend. My entire Lamp Matrix B is out and the fuse blowed even when connector J106 is disconnected. I found a post on Pinball Ninja that points to the distinct diode rectifiers P600G. I have ordered some and will test, fingers crossed.

got my PF installed and running yesterday, super fun game!
my machine is missing the left and right spotlights located above the slingshots on the ramps.
how do these tie in? do they have their own connectors? or are they chained of the space ship saucers on the end of the ramps?
a pic would be awesome of the connection as my manual hasn't come yet.
anyone have a link to the instructions on how to update a PUB card? i cant find it anywhere on PPS ( unless there is a read me file on the PPS download , i have to dig my XP comp out to DL and open.)
can you update a PUB card from RFM to SWE1?
i pulled my ramps and washed them with ammonia and water and then scrubbed the ball trails with a rinsed out ME (rinsed to get the ME soap out, then soaked the ME in 99% alcohol) and then flame polished them, im super happy with them!
Thanks
Chris.

Following up... The 1.6 update isn't on the official site. However, a guy named Damian Parrino posted the file on File Factory a couple of years ago. It is

pin2000_50070_0160_09222003_B_10000000.exe

Has anyone used this successfully? This is, obviously, the serial download version.

I suppose I'll test it out by upgrading to an "official" 1.5 and, if it works well, try the 1.6.

Update: searching using that file name brought up more stuff, including another thread here on Pinside where it appears our friend mattosborn might have had something to do with this 1.6 exe. So it looks legit

nice job on the flame polishing

thanks! i was pretty much crapping my pants the whole time, i wish a had an old ramp to try melting into a gooey mess before hand to get a feel for it. i just went low heat and slow, after i got comfortable, i was able to go abit more aggressive. if i didn't like the way it turned out i just used the ME again like sand paper and hit it again until the trails and scratches are invisible now.

my new PF from PPS just arrived had a little bit of tape residue on it that came off easy peasy with a tiny bit of varsol. has a bit of light scratching that might polish out from years of warehouse handling , but maybe a sand in clear might be best anyway.
anyone make a mylar kit for RFM?
next week im starting an order list, the SOL ball popper almost is worn to the point of having a hole in the top of it, so thin i can bend it with thumb pressure where the curve starts.

Tempted to get another rfm. I have had 3 people tell me not to because cpu could fail and them your in deep sh&$?! Without going through all the posts on here does anyone worry each time they turn their game on? What is the solution if your cpu crashes ?