(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

5 years ago



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There are 3437 posts in this topic. You are on page 68 of 69.
#3351 30 days ago

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PinsideOption 2 (002) (resized).jpgpinsidelighted (resized).jpg
#3352 29 days ago

So lets say i have a broken computer.
What is my options?
Pinbox, nucore?
And I am really bad with computers.

#3353 29 days ago

I've seen people sell both single computer parts and whole computer box with all stuff inside.

Is game completely dead or what? Does the CPU fan start at all? Perhaps it's only the power supply that's broken, those can easily be found and replaced.

#3354 29 days ago

The prism card is working. Tried it in another pinball 2000 computer.
And I have new psu.
The fan i dont know have to check

#3355 29 days ago
Quoted from Tjohejsan:

The prism card is working. Tried it in another pinball 2000 computer.
And I have new psu.
The fan i dont know have to check

Those usually suffer from bad capacitors. If you have someone that can solder well, it's a relatively easy fix.

#3356 29 days ago

Contact @boryguard ... I think he debugs pin2k computers

#3357 28 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Contact @boryguard ... I think he debugs pin2k computers

Or me and I’m closer to Europe. I fix Pin2k machines all the time and have loads of spares plus I can build pinbox replacements to

#3358 25 days ago

Hi everyone. Playing my revenge this morning and the LCD screen goes dark during Abraham Lincoln. Game was still playing fine. I decided to turn machine off. When turning back on I can hear the computer fan running but nothing in the machine lights up. Suggestions on where to start? Thanks.

#3359 25 days ago
Quoted from luckycreature:

Hi everyone. Playing my revenge this morning and the LCD screen goes dark during Abraham Lincoln. Game was still playing fine. I decided to turn machine off. When turning back on I can hear the computer fan running but nothing in the machine lights up. Suggestions on where to start? Thanks.

If I had to guess its either the computer power supply or the computer motherboard (capacitor failures). Especially if your not getting anything out on the display.

Do you know if the computer has ever been serviced?

#3360 25 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

If I had to guess its either the computer power supply or the computer motherboard (capacitor failures). Especially if your not getting anything out on the display.
Do you know if the computer has ever been serviced?

I do not know. Is the fan on separate power supply then the computer?

#3361 25 days ago
Quoted from luckycreature:

I do not know. Is the fan on separate power supply then the computer?

It uses the same power supply... but uses the 12V rail (internally)... so its entirely possible that the fan runs but the computer cannot properly operate. If the power supply is original it should probably be replaced anyway.

#3362 25 days ago

First thing I did with mine was replace the power supply and CPU cooler. It was a good thing I did because the person that was in there before didn't apply the heat sink properly to the CPU and it really wasn't doing it's job

amazon.com link » (300W)

amazon.com link » (Size TX34, Style:Socket A/370)

Potential power supply issues aside, capacitors on the motherboards of some of these units are prone to failure.

#3363 25 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

First thing I did with mine was replace the power supply and CPU cooler. It was a good thing I did because the person that was in there before didn't apply the heat sink properly to the CPU and it really wasn't doing it's job
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link » (Size TX34, Style:Socket A/370)

Thank you. I'm gonna get inside it Thursday night and see what I'm working with.

#3364 21 days ago

Hey Revengers, I'm having a small issue with my v2.10 machine (haven't had a chance to update to 2.20 yet) - When I go to Settings > Adjustments > High Scores & change the Default Champion or Default HSTD scores it doesn't seem to have any effect..

Anyone know how to change the default scores? I've done it on previous versions…

Thanks

#3365 21 days ago
Quoted from dashv:

Poor people are crazy zitt.
I’m eccentric.

The one on the right I just added to my collection as an upgrade. It has a shaker motor, new tmolding, a nicer playfield, freshly polished ramps and metals, a 3D translight, recapped motherboard, monitor and prism card, sweet art blades, and the sides of the playfield have felt installed to prevent scratching when lifting/lowering the playfield.
I didn’t personally do any of those upgrades. Someone else here on pinside did.
I have a shaker for the one on the left, I just need to get around to installing it. The one on the left also needs cleaning, center ramp replacement, and the left ramp switch fixed. I have all the parts. Just need time to actually do it.

Is it still possible to buy these art blades? And what's the difference between this 3D translite and the normal one?

#3366 20 days ago
Quoted from thesav:

Hey Revengers, I'm having a small issue with my v2.10 machine (haven't had a chance to update to 2.20 yet) - When I go to Settings > Adjustments > High Scores & change the Default Champion or Default HSTD scores it doesn't seem to have any effect..
Anyone know how to change the default scores? I've done it on previous versions…
Thanks

You also need to reset hstd (reset all the scores to default) to have the updated values reflected.

#3367 20 days ago
Quoted from thesav:

Is it still possible to buy these art blades? And what's the difference between this 3D translite and the normal one?

Those art blades are very good! I have them in mine.
https://www.pingraffix.com/product-page/revenge-from-mars-custom-pinblades

The 3D translite is printed on a lenticular film... so when you look at it at different angles images appear to be three dimensional.
IMG_2246 (resized).jpg

#3368 20 days ago

ok, RFM just landed home
its in "player" state, but playing very well (and for now its all i want)
even if i know already a lot about it, will read these 68 pages...
rendez-vous later

#3370 19 days ago

tanx Paul (and others)

well, not sure how much time RFM will stay home, as it was more a "transit" pin before JP is done (talking about code, remember, i'm a "player")
and of course i knew already before about RFM, than my wife played few games & said : "why do you want to let this pin go so fast !? as its a very funny one !!! and no as all others" (lol)

we'll see than...
almost i have to clean the playfield, even if again it plays very well already, as i've beaten MARS on my 4th game on it (factory settings, 1.5 code)
i know highest scores needs to beat MARS almost twice in a game

WP_20191125_20_42_55_Pro (resized).jpg

#3371 19 days ago
Quoted from thesav:

Is it still possible to buy these art blades? And what's the difference between this 3D translite and the normal one?

I posted a blog and video about the RFM 3d translite if you need to get a reference of what it looks like.

Blog Post:
https://pinballsupernova.wordpress.com/2017/05/14/mod-install-3-d-lenticular-revenge-from-mars-translite-created-by-pinball-dreams/

#3372 19 days ago

I am planning on upgrading all the bulbs to LED (no color). Too many good BF deals to not make the jump. I was wondering if anyone can assist me in this?

Do I need to worry about strobing with the GI or other lights that dim on RFM? Like when the top GI (where the skill shot is) dims the whole area?

Are there any LED bulbs that still work with the test/diagnostics report?

Pop bumpers have regular bayonet style #44 in them, right?

By a quick count I see I need: 57 #44, 55 #555, 3 #906, and 4 #89. Is that the proper quantity? I know that the manual was dead wrong for rubber parts, don't want to put in an order again just to find out something was wrong in the manual for the lamp matrices.

I was planning on using 2smd frosted soft or warm white all around.

Thanks!

#3373 18 days ago

p1nhead
you could always play it safe and order a few extra of each type (plus, that way you're covered in the event of a defective bulb or two

#3374 18 days ago
Quoted from P1nhead:

I am planning on upgrading all the bulbs to LED (no color). Too many good BF deals to not make the jump. I was wondering if anyone can assist me in this?
Do I need to worry about strobing with the GI or other lights that dim on RFM? Like when the top GI (where the skill shot is) dims the whole area?
Are there any LED bulbs that still work with the test/diagnostics report?
Pop bumpers have regular bayonet style #44 in them, right?
By a quick count I see I need: 57 #44, 55 #555, 3 #906, and 4 #89. Is that the proper quantity? I know that the manual was dead wrong for rubber parts, don't want to put in an order again just to find out something was wrong in the manual for the lamp matrices.
I was planning on using 2smd frosted soft or warm white all around.
Thanks!

Take a look at this advice from Comet Pinball.
https://www.cometpinball.com/collections/how-to-buy-pinball-leds

I've been following it for years and my games have come out great. As for which "white" to use, I've been moving my GI over to sunlight on most games. RFM is interesting because I think I went with Natural white. For flashers above the playfield, it depends; I put all LED flashers on my TAF and it was blinding, so most went back to standard flashers.

Like @j_m_ said, buy extras and experiment.

#3375 18 days ago
Quoted from P1nhead:

I am planning on upgrading all the bulbs to LED (no color). Too many good BF deals to not make the jump. I was wondering if anyone can assist me in this?
Do I need to worry about strobing with the GI or other lights that dim on RFM? Like when the top GI (where the skill shot is) dims the whole area?
Are there any LED bulbs that still work with the test/diagnostics report?
Pop bumpers have regular bayonet style #44 in them, right?
By a quick count I see I need: 57 #44, 55 #555, 3 #906, and 4 #89. Is that the proper quantity? I know that the manual was dead wrong for rubber parts, don't want to put in an order again just to find out something was wrong in the manual for the lamp matrices.
I was planning on using 2smd frosted soft or warm white all around.
Thanks!

IIRC the latest code V2.2 has some functionality to deactivate the "lamp check" - so it does not indicate a fault when LEDs are used....to be checked...just what i remember...
EDIT: by checking the logfile https://mypinballs.com/software/rfm/code_updates.jsp I think my post above is not correct...to be checked in the settings

#3376 18 days ago

Hey guys - I'm back to making repro MRS' - I took some time to work on a different MRS for the Creech whirlpool and just switched back to making repro MRS'.....let me know if you are interested - I'm putting a list together!....

#3377 17 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Hey guys - I'm back to making repro MRS' - I took some time to work on a different MRS for the Creech whirlpool and just switched back to making repro MRS'.....let me know if you are interested - I'm putting a list together!....

What the heck is MRS?

#3378 17 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

What the heck is MRS?

This is a post in error - he is referring to CFTBL.

#3379 17 days ago

The more I think about this, the less likely I am to do LEDs. There are some fun lighting effects that I will miss with LED - unless newer LED bulbs operate just like the incandescents.

Anyone know of a good place where I can order bulk 44/555?

#3380 17 days ago
Quoted from P1nhead:

This is a post in error - he is referring to CFTBL.

Nope, not a post error - you can look a few threads back in this forum to read more about the MRS'....our RFM's contain 3 unobtanium switches known as magnetic reed switches (MRS) - earlier this year I reproduced them to make them available to owners of pins that had them such as RFM....CV, CC, SWEP1, NBAFB, SC & NGG....as well as I had made a custom MRS to fit on the Creech whirlpool - this eliminates the Cherry switch on the bowl to allow for a contactless motion in the whirpool (i.e. more spins!)....so I'm back to making a new batch of common MRS' (not to be confused with the custom Creech one) in the event someone with an RFM needs one!

#3381 17 days ago
Quoted from harig:

IIRC the latest code V2.2 has some functionality to deactivate the "lamp check" - so it does not indicate a fault when LEDs are used....to be checked...just what i remember...
EDIT: by checking the logfile https://mypinballs.com/software/rfm/code_updates.jsp I think my post above is not correct...to be checked in the settings

Yes, v2.2 has an option to ignore lamp faults. For led users

#3382 17 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

What the heck is MRS?

Simply use the "Find In Topic" function at the top and type MRS you'll see all the threads on the discussion. Your pin has 3 of them.

#3383 17 days ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

tanx Paul (and others)
well, not sure how much time RFM will stay home, as it was more a "transit" pin before JP is done (talking about code, remember, i'm a "player")
and of course i knew already before about RFM, than my wife played few games & said : "why do you want to let this pin go so fast !? as its a very funny one !!! and no as all others" (lol)
we'll see than...
almost i have to clean the playfield, even if again it plays very well already, as i've beaten MARS on my 4th game on it (factory settings, 1.5 code)
i know highest scores needs to beat MARS almost twice in a game
[quoted image]

Update your software and you might enjoy it more ...

#3384 17 days ago
Quoted from P1nhead:

You also need to reset hstd (reset all the scores to default) to have the updated values reflected.

Exactly what I was about to say. Defaults when changed do nothing until the next high score reset event as real scores are in place or at least it thinks so

#3385 17 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Simply use the "Find In Topic" function at the top and type MRS you'll see all the threads on the discussion. Your pin has 3 of them.

#3386 17 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Update your software and you might enjoy it more ...

yes, was already in the "to do list"

tomorrow afternoon will be step 1 : cleaning/waxing the PF... updating should become after that

#3387 17 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Nope, not a post error - you can look a few threads back in this forum to read more about the MRS'....our RFM's contain 3 unobtanium switches known as magnetic reed switches (MRS) - earlier this year I reproduced them to make them available to owners of pins that had them such as RFM....CV, CC, SWEP1, NBAFB, SC & NGG....as well as I had made a custom MRS to fit on the Creech whirlpool - this eliminates the Cherry switch on the bowl to allow for a contactless motion in the whirpool (i.e. more spins!)....so I'm back to making a new batch of common MRS' (not to be confused with the custom Creech one) in the event someone with an RFM needs one!

The more you know...

https://i1.pinside.com/7/ef/7efe1012c1cf8b2250aa3013dc081029b3ac53b7/resized/740/7efe1012c1cf8b2250aa3013dc081029b3ac53b7.jpg

That's a reference picture for the uninitiated. That being said, I am definitely interested in getting a backup set of these.

#3388 17 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Update your software and you might enjoy it more ...

and while i'm reading all this topic from the begining, i know now that you're the new code guy for the RFM, than already let me say BRAVO & TANX !

#3389 17 days ago

Hi all, new RFM owner!

I’ve got a wire that popped out of one of the connections in the back of the playfield, and I don’t have whatever piece crimps to the end. Can any one identify what I need from the pic?

33015AD6-581D-4F41-B5E6-76109FF9C66F (resized).jpeg
#3391 16 days ago

A lot cheaper on Amazon:
amazon.com link »
and Pinside gets a cut from the link above. I also use the molex 63811-1000 for nearly every crimped connector on the pinball machine.

#3392 16 days ago
Quoted from P1nhead:

The more you know...
https://i1.pinside.com/7/ef/7efe1012c1cf8b2250aa3013dc081029b3ac53b7/resized/740/7efe1012c1cf8b2250aa3013dc081029b3ac53b7.jpg
That's a reference picture for the uninitiated. That being said, I am definitely interested in getting a backup set of these.

Okay. I knew what they were, just didn't recognize the acronym, with no original reference STMA can bother me me.

#3393 16 days ago

A question to RFM owners. Any more 'party mode' flipper options that people would like to see?

#3394 16 days ago

My bad, should have clarified, the connector is good, I nor sure what metal piece I need to crimp onto the end of the blue wire to put it back in there. I’m assuming it’s not the same as the molex connectors on backbox boards. I’ve never done these main terminals before.

#3395 16 days ago

Hello Guys
I did the update with Windows XP on an older computer with com1 avaliable, run it with original pinball 2000 update tool, was perfect ! Update from 1.6 to 2.20 (from mypinball) in about 10min.
Only thing i noticed is that 1.6 version had more slownly lights sequence on attract mode, with 2.20 the blinking are very acelleretade, specialy on the multiball tunnel, and on the stroble of lucky hole, you can see clearly on those lights that on 1.6 they kind go from down to up on a more slow sequence, on 2.20 they blinking almost simultany.
Do you guys knows if there´s something on menu that can slowdown this or make it runs like original 1.6 speed.
Did 2 videos, showing regular 1.6 ligths speed vs 2.20 lights after update, if you just slide with mouse on both videos, you can see the diference on the light speed https://photos.app.goo.gl/sbkkPWNs8Z9Zyu5T6
Will be great if we have the original 1.6 light speed with new clock and wave lights on same firmware

Thanks a lot
Marcos

#3396 15 days ago

Nice find mandrade1 - i also did note that the "Extra Ball" Insert not gets lit in some of the light animations (in 2.1 and 2.2 too).
Maybe applejuice can take a look at this in the next revision.

#3397 15 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

A question to RFM owners. Any more 'party mode' flipper options that people would like to see?

is there a way to update my stock code to yours on the stock rfm computer?

#3398 15 days ago
Quoted from msj2222:

is there a way to update my stock code to yours on the stock rfm computer?

Yes scrub this thread ... it’s in here. There is a link to an application that runs on a Windows PC. It’s very straight forward. You will need a null modem serial cable and a serial port (either USB adapter or native to the PC). Anyway ... the info is in this thread.

#3399 15 days ago
Quoted from msj2222:

is there a way to update my stock code to yours on the stock rfm computer?

If you like the project, please support it.

There are two methods to do the updates: PUB cards and serial cable.

Using a PUB card to update a Pinball 2000™ Machine

To transfer a Pinball 2000™ update from a PUB card to your machine, follow these simple steps:
1. Turn off the power to the machine.
2. Use Backbox key to remove the backglass.
3. Slide the Logic all the way forward and let it pivot downward.
4. Remove the Logic Box Cover.
5. Insert the PUB card in the open ISA slot in the logic box. The components on the card (on the same side as the written text) should face the rear of the machine.
6. Turn power on. The screen will show the progress of the 2-minute process.
7. Turn power off when indicated on the screen.
8. Remove the card by using the top edge as a handle.
9. Replace Logic Box Cover and secure the Logic Box and Backglass.
10. Turn power on to operate your updated machine.

As for the serial cable method, check out this link on how to do on a modern PC.
https://brianpeek.com/pinball-2000-software-update-with-windows-7-x64/

#3400 15 days ago

i should get a NULL MODEM cable next week, but what about this way :

install a HD in the P2000 computer, with an OS on it + the update software + code
connect a KB and /or a mouse
change boot startup sequence in the BIOS, start on the HD
launch the update from the HD

... !?

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