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(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

6 years ago



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  • 4,173 posts
  • 352 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by applejuice
  • Topic is favorited by 168 Pinsiders

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There are 4173 posts in this topic. You are on page 66 of 84.
#3251 1 year ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Whoa.. this worked on original hardware without a sync adapter or CGA converter?

Quoted from mastercello:

Exactly, also it fits right into place...perfect dimensions!

Weird that it would sync down to CGA... the specs don't claim that. It is on this list though: http://15khz.wikidot.com/

#3252 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Weird that it would sync down to CGA... the specs don't claim that. It is on this list though: http://15khz.wikidot.com/

I have it installed in my RFM and it does work!

#3253 1 year ago

Shaker installed
applejuice I had to put a diode and a resistance like the classical stern or data east board, and it works perfectly well.
Before, any shaker activation was burning my fuse.

Thanks for this great addition

#3254 1 year ago

I received my new reed switch replacements from Sonic. They are great! They seem more sensitive than the original (the magnet seems stronger as well but might be just my imagination). Finally i can collect a saucer on Martian Happy Hour

#3255 1 year ago
Quoted from mjfisher:

I received my new reed switch replacements from Sonic. They are great! They seem more sensitive than the original (the magnet seems stronger as well but might be just my imagination). Finally i can collect a saucer on Martian Happy Hour

Thanks Mick! They are more sensitive - that's the main goal...when putting them together they go through a series of 3 sensitivity checks before they are considered good - last of which is hooked up to my Creech for final checks
.

#3256 1 year ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Thanks Mick! They are more sensitive - that's the main goal...when putting them together they go through a series of 3 sensitivity checks before they are considered good - last of which is hooked up to my Creech for final checks
.

sonic do you have any more available?

#3257 1 year ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

sonic do you have any more available?

I've been currently working on a variation for Creech's bowl - it's a form-fit solution to the bowl...I'm trying to get some of that demand out of the way - then back to the standard MRS....and working on mass-production avenues....

14
#3258 1 year ago

So are you ready for a Halloween Party?

New software version v2.2 coming 31st October 2019 all being well. Is about to go out to my beta testers..

Maybe you'll want to get some friends round to try out these new features, and maybe play at midnight to??
IMG_5186 (resized).JPGIMG_5187 (resized).JPGfullsizeoutput_1096 (resized).jpeg

#3259 1 year ago

Sweet. Really looking forward to it. Any patch notes we can take a sneak peak at?

#3260 1 year ago

This is fantastic, reversed flippers too !

#3262 1 year ago

Brilliant!

#3263 1 year ago
Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

Sweet. Really looking forward to it. Any patch notes we can take a sneak peak at?

This is how it stands right now..

v2.20 RFM Update

Attract - Added mypinballs logo to software version screen
Attract - Added clock and date display with adjustments
Attract - Added midnight madness ready detection to clock display
Attack Mars - Lowered default champ score to 200mil
Scene - Added midnight madness ready detection
Martian Bombs - Added new playfield lamp effect to aid player when martian bombs are lit (using shooter lane GI lamps)
Midnight Madness - Added New Mode. Start a game close to midnight…
Tower Struggle - Added more shaker effects - To martian splats and saucer explodes
System - Fixed problem with optional martian lamps showing up in lamp test as broken
Bonus Wave - added new lamp effects for active wave using saucer and mode feature lamps
Bonus Wave - added new lamp effects to show global game progression during mode
Drive in Demolition - added More shaker effects to tank and car/truck weapons
Party Modes - New feature. Select special flipper options for party play
Happy Hour - Added new feature for ‘drunk’ flippers

XINA 1.32
Lamps - Add option to ignore lamp test. For use if LEDs are installed
Lamps - Added experimental RC charge and decay values for better LED lamp testing
System - Improved some Adjustment setting housekeeping
System - Added new menu item and infrastructure for Party Mode settings section
Flippers - Amended the logic for bad eos switch flipper retriggering as this conflicts now with a no hold party mode.

#3264 1 year ago

"No hold flippers" - meaning you won't be able to cradle a ball with this option on?

#3265 1 year ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

"No hold flippers" - meaning you won't be able to cradle a ball with this option on?

yes, party on!

#3266 1 year ago

That's so great !!

#3267 1 year ago

Just changed out the cpu fan on my RFM. When I power up should the fan come on immediately? I powered on for a couple of minutes but turned it off when the fan didn’t start.

#3268 1 year ago
Quoted from jgecmd:

Just changed out the cpu fan on my RFM. When I power up should the fan come on immediately? I powered on for a couple of minutes but turned it off when the fan didn’t start.

Pretty sure it should come on immediately. Mine does.

#3269 1 year ago

Mine too!

#3270 1 year ago

Yes, the CPU fan should be running all the time when on.

#3271 1 year ago
Quoted from jgecmd:

Just changed out the cpu fan on my RFM. When I power up should the fan come on immediately? I powered on for a couple of minutes but turned it off when the fan didn’t start.

I plugged it in differently than the original fan. Plugged into the board (tried 2 spots) not pigtailed off the power supply. Should that make a difference?

#3272 1 year ago
Quoted from jgecmd:

I plugged it in differently than the original fan. Plugged into the board (tried 2 spots) not pigtailed off the power supply. Should that make a difference?

I've mine plugged into the board and it works. Has the fan ever run?

#3273 1 year ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I've mine plugged into the board and it works. Has the fan ever run?

It’s a new fan, so I don’t know for sure but will test it tonight.

#3274 1 year ago
Quoted from jgecmd:

It’s a new fan, so I don’t know for sure but will test it tonight.

This is the one I bought...works like a champ!
amazon.com link »

These need to be 3 pin type, non speed controlled fans. The yellow wire is a tach signal that the CPU may or may not choose to look at (in this case I don't think it gives a crap). So as long as its plugged in correctly and not obstructed it should just work. Make sure its not twisted or mounted funny, it doesn't take much to stop these things from rotating.

#3276 1 year ago

I bought a fan off ebay listed as a fan for rfm and it would not work so I put the working old fan back in and it started right up

#3277 1 year ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

This is the one I bought...works like a champ!
amazon.com link »
These need to be 3 pin type, non speed controlled fans. The yellow wire is a tach signal that the CPU may or may not choose to look at (in this case I don't think it gives a crap). So as long as its plugged in correctly and not obstructed it should just work. Make sure its not twisted or mounted funny, it doesn't take much to stop these things from rotating.

That’s the same fan that I installed.

#3278 1 year ago

Seems to be a defective fan. I put a 9v battery to the old fan, it fired right up. No response when testing the new fan. Oh well. Thanks for the help!

#3279 1 year ago
Quoted from jgecmd:

Seems to be a defective fan. I put a 9v battery to the old fan, it fired right up. No response when testing the new fan. Oh well. Thanks for the help!

Bummer.

#3280 1 year ago
Quoted from jgecmd:

Seems to be a defective fan. I put a 9v battery to the old fan, it fired right up. No response when testing the new fan. Oh well. Thanks for the help!

Check the pinout.
The red should to positive and black to negative. Yellow is Tach and is unconnected.
I've run across a couple of fans … especially second hand which is wired incorrectly.
https://forum.level1techs.com/t/need-help-wiring-some-fans/101081/2
has a good description what it should look like... that said I have NOT confirmed on my RFM that mine is wired that way. Given its a standard mobo; it should be wired this way.

#3281 1 year ago
Quoted from mastercello:

Exactly, also it fits right into place...perfect dimensions!

I just received my RFM to discover (undisclosed by the seller) that it also had been refitted with a 17” LCD. I am looking at a larger LCD with a better contrast ratio.

Those of you who have used a 24” (widescreen) LCD talk about in being a perfect fit, etc. My machine has the original cutout piece of plywood holding the monitor and the cutout for the screen is about 18” wide. I see how a 24” widescreen would fit inside the cabinet going to the edges, but with that plywood unmodified the monitor would sit on top of the plywood, not have its screen inline with the playfield-facing edge of the plywood.

Do you modify or replace the plywood, do you let the monitor sit on top, or even below?

#3282 1 year ago
Quoted from longtemps1:

I just received my RFM to discover (undisclosed by the seller) that it also had been refitted with a 17” LCD. I am looking at a larger LCD with a better contrast ratio.
Those of you who have used a 24” (widescreen) LCD talk about in being a perfect fit, etc. My machine has the original cutout piece of plywood holding the monitor and the cutout for the screen is about 18” wide. I see how a 24” widescreen would fit inside the cabinet going to the edges, but with that plywood unmodified the monitor would sit on top of the plywood, not have its screen inline with the playfield-facing edge of the plywood.
Do you modify or replace the plywood, do you let the monitor sit on top, or even below?

My machine had a widescreen LCD installed. The way that it was secured was that it was on the outside of the box (below the opening to use your terms). The vacancy above and below the monitor was covered with black poster board. If you reached up in there between the glass an the monitor you could turn the monitor on and off and adjust settings because the entire thing was outside the box. The previous installer didn't remove any of the monitor casing... it was black so it didn't matter. This seemed to work just fine and stuff lined up pretty well. I'm not sure if that's how everyone else does it.

#3283 1 year ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

This seemed to work just fine and stuff lined up pretty well. I'm not sure if that's how everyone else does it.

Thanks. I mentioned the alignment of the screen surface with the edge of the plywood because someone had stressed this should be the case. However, as soon as one uses a non-original monitor, screen size differences may not make this ideal. Your success leads me to think I can experiment with the monitor’s location.

The truly important ideal is that when all is said and done the reflected image lines up properly with the playfield targets, etc. My problem is not having a reference for how they should align. If anyone can lead me to a good photo illustrating this, that would be great. Otherwise, I may have to go watch Tilt! again to catch the right video frame.

#3284 1 year ago
Quoted from longtemps1:

Thanks. I mentioned the alignment of the screen surface with the edge of the plywood because someone had stressed this should be the case. However, as soon as one uses a non-original monitor, screen size differences may not make this ideal. Your success leads me to think I can experiment with the monitor’s location.
The truly important ideal is that when all is said and done the reflected image lines up properly with the playfield targets, etc. My problem is not having a reference for how they should align. If anyone can lead me to a good photo illustrating this, that would be great. Otherwise, I may have to go watch Tilt! again to catch the right video frame.

I put mine inside, just sitting on top of the original monitor cutout. I'll make a nicer posterboard/foam core board type of surround one of these days. I still want to mess with the alignment more before I make the surround. I used the CGA/VGA board controls to move the image around and resize it so the reflection lines up the way I want on the playfield. You just have to tinker with it until the image lines up right. You can also move the monitor up and down in the cabinet since the cutout for the original monitor is still a little taller than a 24 inch LCD screen.

#3285 1 year ago
Quoted from Sleepdroid:

You just have to tinker with it until the image lines up right.

Thanks, also. I still need some sort of reference to know what is “right”. I hadn’t played this model machine in so long, I’m not sure how it should look. I’ve been using the Martian Happy Hour challenge for alignment. Are the Martians supposed to overlay the actual playfield targets? Right now, the ones in front of the bar are about 1/2 in front of and 1/2 above the targets.

I also need to tame some excess stray light and repaint some black bits in the target area which are making the image difficult to see.

#3286 1 year ago
Quoted from longtemps1:

Thanks, also. I still need some sort of reference to know what is “right”. I hadn’t played this model machine in so long, I’m not sure how it should look.

Quoted from longtemps1:

I just received my RFM to discover (undisclosed by the seller) that it also had been refitted with a 17” LCD. I am looking at a larger LCD with a better contrast ratio.
Those of you who have used a 24” (widescreen) LCD talk about in being a perfect fit, etc. My machine has the original cutout piece of plywood holding the monitor and the cutout for the screen is about 18” wide. I see how a 24” widescreen would fit inside the cabinet going to the edges, but with that plywood unmodified the monitor would sit on top of the plywood, not have its screen ito 16:9nline with the playfield-facing edge of the plywood.
Do you modify or replace the plywood, do you let the monitor sit on top, or even below?

I'm using a 22" Dell. Mounted underside, set to 16:9. Excellent alignment of images above ramps and targets.

00100lPORTRAIT_00100_BURST20191020052549502_COVER (resized).jpgIMG_20191020_052840~01 (resized).jpg
#3287 1 year ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I'm using a 22" Dell. Mounted underside, set to 16:9. Excellent alignment of images above ramps and targets.

Wayout, these photos were very helpful. Thanks!

#3288 1 year ago
Quoted from longtemps1:

Wayout, these photos were very helpful. Thanks!

Your welcome! I made my own bracket made of wood with screws and nylon spacers. I had a buddy hold the monitor above the glass and attached the monitor, leaving it slightly loose to make position adjustments before tightening. Afterwards, I made a picture frame bezel out of black coated cardboard to install around the back perimeter of the monitor.

#3289 1 year ago

VA (Vertical alignment) flat screen replacement monitor for PB2K??

I hadn’t seen this technology mentioned in any posts when I searched, most people recommending IPS type LCD/LED monitors.

My “new” RFM arrived with a 17” Dell 1707FP, a CCFL backlit early LCD technology monitor. At first it looked awful, until I realized the RGB gains had been dialed back on the CGA/VGA adapter. Very dark screen, I would have called it a Ghost Martian invasion. Now, it is tolerable... for now.

Investigating replacements, I ran across this relatively new VA type monitor technology. What caught my attention is the contrast ratio, specifically static contrast ratio, typically 3000 to 1. IPS monitors are typically 1000 to 1, my current clunker 600 to 1. I like black blacks and the gray rectangle that currently backdrops the monitor’s reflected image on the playfield is a bit annoying.

After all, this game was designed for a CRT monitor, which has inherently great contrast when properly adjusted. While an OLED monitor would be even better, I am on a budget, $XX, not $XXXX!

Has anyone any experience with the VA type monitors, they seem to be favored by some gamers, but I am a pinballer?

I guess because they are a newer technology, they seem to only be available as widescreens. So, maybe a 24 inch widescreen would be the way to go. I’ve seen a couple of models in the USD $80-$90 range.

I will probably take the plunge soon... and report my results.

#3290 1 year ago

I think my Dell 22* monitor looks darn good. Better than the old CRT and quite black with properly lowered contrast and brightness. $56 on EBay.

#3291 1 year ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I think my Dell 22* monitor looks darn good. Better than the old CRT and quite black with properly lowered contrast and brightness. $56 on EBay.

Yes, I am debating between a 24” and a 22”, especially if I mount it the same way as you have. The original 19” CRTs actually had a screen size around 18” due to the inherent non-rectangular shape of a CRT. That would kind of be in between what 22” and 24” widescreens would provide as they are truncated to the proper 4:3 aspect ratio.

I am still curious if anyone has experience with those VA type LCD/LEDs.

#3292 12 months ago
Quoted from larrys1:

Here is what I used for in front of the ball catcher, hockey stick tape, made from rubber with a small raised portion in the center. Works great.
[quoted image]

Revisiting a five year old question, but the solution offered then, “Stick It” seems to no longer be available, at least in my web searches.

The thin padding tape on the front edge of my machine’s ball catcher is falling apart. I was thinking of trying to apply some black Plasti-Dip, normally used to coat hand tool handles.

What other solutions have people found?

#3293 12 months ago

Any form of adhesive backed insulation tape works. Anything for stopping draughty in door frames etc

#3294 12 months ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Any form of adhesive backed insulation tape works. Anything for stopping draughty in door frames etc

No. Not anything. Get a better product, most of those disintegrate and deform quickly. I use only high density, and it
works great.
High Density Foam Tape Waterproof Sealing Strip CR Strips Neoprene Single-Sided Adhesive EVA Seal 3/4" X 3/8" X 13Ft amazon.com link »

#3295 12 months ago

My Crt just got fried.
So now i am looking to replace with lcd.
What type of adapter do i need for lcd to work?

#3296 12 months ago

4 days people to Halloween and the release of v2.2 and some midnight play with reversed flippers! Check https://myPinballs.com from 12am gmt 31st Oct

Tests have gone well and now passed my beta testers attempts to break it, though I’ve spent an awful long time squashing bugs for this! As i add more it gets more tricky to shoehorn it into the space and still keep the original hardware space and 4mb ram options alive!!

To the Martian emperor! Cheers

*Please give generously to the code cause

#3297 12 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:

4 days people to Halloween and the release of v2.2 and some midnight play with reversed flippers! Check https://myPinballs.com from 12am gmt 31st Oct
Tests have gone well and now passed my beta testers attempts to break it, though I’ve spent an awful long time squashing bugs for this! As i add more it gets more tricky to shoehorn it into the space and still keep the original hardware space and 4mb ram options alive!!
To the Martian emperor! Cheers
*Please give generously to the code cause

This is amazing, Applejuice. But here is a sideways question:

I only received my RFM a few weeks ago, just getting to know it. I quickly noticed that the “knock” sound programmed in (my system is rocking version 1.4 of the software) sounds more like a grating metallic crunch than a knock on a wood cabinet. Assuming this is just a matter of the sound that was sampled, can (has) this knock sound be (been) changed to be a little less horrid?

#3298 12 months ago
Quoted from longtemps1:

This is amazing, Applejuice. But here is a sideways question:
I only received my RFM a few weeks ago, just getting to know it. I quickly noticed that the “knock” sound programmed in (my system is rocking version 1.4 of the software) sounds more like a grating metallic crunch than a knock on a wood cabinet. Assuming this is just a matter of the sound that was sampled, can (has) this knock sound be (been) changed to be a little less horrid?

If you update to v2.1 or newer then you can add a real knocker. You also need to buy a loom kit off me (for connecting up the knocker assembly) It also allows a shaker motor to be used. Go to https://mypinballs.com to order.

#3299 12 months ago

And if you don’t add a real knocker, you can set one the software that you have one.. and it won’t play the sound, just send a signal to fire the non-existent knocker

#3300 12 months ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

And if you don’t add a real knocker, you can set one the software that you have one.. and it won’t play the sound, just send a signal to fire the non-existent knocker

I really just hoped there was a way to change the sound sample that is played, no new hardware, no actual knocker. At the moment I cringe at the end of a game awaiting the possibility of a final score digit match and that crunching sound. One’s supposed to look forward to a match!

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