(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"

By kjm8888

7 years ago


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#3201 2 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I just dont understand why the problem would escalate by just reflowing. Is there a way to verify its a bad pot? Are the the ohms printed on the top?

Even touching the adjustment part of the pot if it's going/gone bad would create effects on the screen (lines, etc) I'm not sure if those numbers in your pic 52, 25 are the values and i don't have my machine any more to confirm for you. Do you know what type of monitor and board you have in the machine? usually they are either Wells Gardner or Ducksan. From your earlier pic showing most of the remote board it looks like it may be a Ducksan. There will be others in the club who can confirm what value pot you will need. The 52 "could" stand for 520K but i can't be positive on that.

#3202 2 years ago

(to follow)

#3203 2 years ago

More likely 5 plus 2 zeros... IE 500 ohms.
Look at the schematics to confirm.

To test a pot for opens; you should see ?500 ohms? across the two outside pins. (DVM in resistance mode)
The wiper would measure a percent of that value.

Wipers go bad regularly on these cheap pots. Heat could make it worse.
Also it looks like you ?may? have soldered on the top part of the pot instead of the pin side (bottom of board); if you did - it's possible you may have contaminated the wiper ring on the top side of the pot with solder flux.

#3204 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

More likely 5 plus 2 zeros... IE 500 ohms.
Look at the schematics to confirm.
To test a pot for opens; you should see ?500 ohms? across the two outside pins. (DVM in resistance mode)
The wiper would measure a percent of that value.
Wipers go bad regularly on these cheap pots. Heat could make it worse.
Also it looks like you ?may? have soldered on the top part of the pot instead of the pin side (bottom of board); if you did - it's possible you may have contaminated the wiper ring on the top side of the pot with solder flux.

Quoted from Mancave:

Even touching the adjustment part of the pot if it's going/gone bad would create effects on the screen (lines, etc) I'm not sure if those numbers in your pic 52, 25 are the values and i don't have my machine any more to confirm for you. Do you know what type of monitor and board you have in the machine? usually they are either Wells Gardner or Ducksan. From your earlier pic showing most of the remote board it looks like it may be a Ducksan. There will be others in the club who can confirm what value pot you will need. The 52 "could" stand for 520K but i can't be positive on that.

any idea where to source these pots? I did a quick search and didnt find this type. I have to admit Im out of my element here but I am willing to give it a try & learn.

#3205 2 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

any idea where to source these pots?

I don't. Matching pots is hard to do unless you have the original part number.
The problem is everyone seems to make the pots a little different... and no standard "packages" really exist.
If you knew who the original manufacturer was; you might be able to cross to it.
Sadly; the only sure fire way to find the right pot is to measure critical dems and then consult a parametric search like on Digikey.com. And even then; you wouldn't know for sure until you had the replacement in hand to verify.

That said; you might be able to shot-gun buy something and then "make" it work.

#3206 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I don't. Matching pots is hard to do unless you have the original part number

Shouldn't you only need to have the correct ohm value and the same leg pattern, usually in a tri leg pattern but the distance between the legs can be smaller or larger?? All i did for the Super Offroad remote board was match the ohm value to the particular pot i was changing and got the matching leg size as close as possible (these can be slightly bent inwards/outwards if needed) and it worked 100%. Must admit i don't have any experience with the Ducksan board but i would have thought the basics would be the same?
These are the style i used for the SOR board, link is for the 500k though.
https://www.altronics.com.au/p/r2485b-500k-5mm-top-adjust-trimpot/

msj2222 Ok did a bit of googling and it appears that the remote board in question is a Wells Gardner K7300 series. The code number on the remote board matches the code at the end of the page in this link. If the number on the Vertical hold pot is correct in the picture then this info might come in handy (scan down the page to see the trimpot code listing), according to the references it is a 200k pot but i would still be checking the values by testing.
https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-monitors/Wells-Gardner_K7300_series_repair.pdf

#3207 2 years ago

KenLayton is a member here on pinside. you may want to reach out to him since he was the one that wrote the wells gardner K7300 repair guide

#3208 2 years ago

I really think Im over my head with this, Does anyone know of someone in my area that can do this repair or if I can just order the new parts. I am afraid if I attempt this I will just compound the problem.

#3209 2 years ago

Someone knows if decals for the inserts are on sale in anyplace?
Thanks

#3210 2 years ago

If any one needs a new sheet of glass please message me. Not sure what shipping will be but its coming from Canada.

#3211 2 years ago

Anyone know of where i could find or what to use as a round dome top for the saucers? Was going to peruse Target and Walmart's cosmetic aisles to see if any make up products have a plastic top i could use. I haven't done any 3d modeling before, but was thinking of maybe trying to make a saucer look like the ones on the translite. Otherwise i might just try out some chrome spraypaint on mine as a trial. I'm hoping to get led saucers from applejuice if he's doing another batch. I like the idea of a basic metal saucer more than the stock design.

Also, toying with the idea of getting these amazon.com link » and putting and orange led as the missile engine and maybe running it along the shooter lane and have them flash with those red lights... my plastic with the missiles is cracked, so thought maybe that would cover it up. Just don't want to make it look cluttered or tacky looking with pointless stuff...

#3212 2 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I just dont understand why the problem would escalate by just reflowing. Is there a way to verify its a bad pot? Are the the ohms printed on the top?[quoted image]

Pots go bad far more often than the solder joints themselves, especially ancient pots in old video games. The heat from your reflowing can also distort the elements of the pot, chemically alter dirt and oxidation, and other aggravation to an already worn out pot.

All you need is the schematic for the make & model of your monitor, usually the value is found there. In the example, a typical Wells-Gardner K7000 monitor schematic indicating the value of a pot. You'll need to remove the pot from the board for accurate testing, which is why it is usually desired to just replace the pot for long term reliability
https://www.wikihow.com/Test-a-Potentiometer

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#3213 2 years ago
Quoted from TBatti:

If any one needs a new sheet of glass please message me. Not sure what shipping will be but its coming from Canada.

speaking of that (without attempting to steal your thunder), I too have an extra sheet of NOS P2K glass still in the quad walled cardboard shipping box. I can bring it with me to expo for someone that doesn't want to pay shipping. $150

pm me to set up a "drug deal" parking lot exchange at the hotel. I will be there oct 16-19 (wed-sat)

#3214 2 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

any one have this plastic that i need?[quoted image]

Anyone find that they had this plastic they will part with?

#3215 2 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

Anyone find that they had this plastic they will part with?

Would you be ok with a used piece?

I have an entire set of new plastics I will be installing on mine... I'll check when I get home to see if the current one that is installed is in good shape. I don't believe I have any broken plastics at all on my machine... but who knows.

#3216 2 years ago

that would be great.......currently have a homemade one that is not even the right shape or graphics.....

#3217 2 years ago

I have had no luck finding a new remote adjustment board (Wells Gargner P809). So , again, if anyone can lead me to a source or someone who can repair mine, it would be much appreciated.

#3218 2 years ago

For anyone who was interested, I published my shaker cover design on Thingiverse.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3862516

#3219 2 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I have had no luck finding a new remote adjustment board (Wells Gargner P809). So , again, if anyone can lead me to a source or someone who can repair mine, it would be much appreciated.

Try messaging applejuice i know he has some chassis boards for sale and may be able to help you out with a spare or even a changeover maybe?
I would replace the pot for you but it wouldn't be worth the cost of posting to me and back again, the pots themselves are worth bugger all. The other thing is i wouldn't be able to confirm the pot changeover is the main culprit as i don't have the machine any more to test it in. I'm still fairly confident that is the problem though. Hopefully someone your side of the pond can help you out.

#3220 2 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Try messaging applejuice i know he has some chassis boards for sale and may be able to help you out with a spare or even a changeover maybe?
I would replace the pot for you but it wouldn't be worth the cost of posting to me and back again, the pots themselves are worth bugger all. The other thing is i wouldn't be able to confirm the pot changeover is the main culprit as i don't have the machine any more to test it in. I'm still fairly confident that is the problem though. Hopefully someone your side of the pond can help you out.

Thanks for you efforts. I have been hitting a brick wall every lead I have.KenLayton never replied to my pm and i cant find a match for that pot. Seems like others have had a really tough time finding that particular remote board. Very fustrating!

#3221 2 years ago

still looking for this one...............thanks

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#3222 2 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

still looking for this one...............thanks[quoted image]

I know this is more than what you need but the price isn’t too bad if it’s indeed a complete set...

ebay.com link: 0

#3223 2 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

Thanks for you efforts. I have been hitting a brick wall every lead I have.KenLayton never replied to my pm and i cant find a match for that pot. Seems like others have had a really tough time finding that particular remote board. Very fustrating!

No worries at all i just hope you can get it sorted. Until someone tells me that i'm totally wrong (and that's quite possible ) i'm still of the opinion that any tri leg pot that has the same value as the suspected bad one (and pretty sure the Vertical hold is 200k) will be fine to replace. I don't think you need to have a pot that is from the same/original manufacturer, the ohm value is the most important factor and the watt rating will be consistent i think. I didn't need to source an "original" pot for my Super Offroad remote board, just matched the ohm rating as previously mentioned and that worked fine!

#3224 2 years ago
Quoted from Mancave:

No worries at all i just hope you can get it sorted. Until someone tells me that i'm totally wrong (and that's quite possible ) i'm still of the opinion that any tri leg pot that has the same value as the suspected bad one (and pretty sure the Vertical hold is 200k) will be fine to replace. I don't think you need to have a pot that is from the same/original manufacturer, the ohm value is the most important factor and the watt rating will be consistent i think. I didn't need to source an "original" pot for my Super Offroad remote board, just matched the ohm rating as previously mentioned and that worked fine!

I havent found the wattage. The 200k seems consistant with what I have found. Do you think this is a suitable substitute
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/components/trimmer-potentiometers-pots/200k-ohm-trimmer-potentiometer-p1009/

#3225 2 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I havent found the wattage. The 200k seems consistant with what I have found. Do you think this is a suitable substitute
https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/store/components/trimmer-potentiometers-pots/200k-ohm-trimmer-potentiometer-p1009/

Yep they should be fine, 1/2 watt seems to be the norm for these and the Ohm value is correct according to Ken's write up (and the code number on your board definitely matches the code number in his write up also, it's the same board i'm sure). The distance between the legs can be altered by slightly bending, only really needs a few mm of the tip of the leg anyway to go through the thickness of the board to be soldered. Ideally you would use a solder sucker to remove the old solder from the original pot which would then virtually fall away from the board. The main thing is NOT to apply too much heat to the board for too long, if you do you can potentially stuff the "tracks" of the board.

#3226 2 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I know this is more than what you need but the price isn’t too bad if it’s indeed a complete set...
ebay.com link

that is definitely NOT a complete set. the question is just how many of the actual 17 playfield (+1 backboard) plastics are included. for $130 you can get a complete set which also includes the 8-9 promo pcs.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-3437-Set

#3227 2 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

speaking of that (without attempting to steal your thunder), I too have an extra sheet of NOS P2K glass still in the quad walled cardboard shipping box. I can bring it with me to expo for someone that doesn't want to pay shipping. $150
pm me to set up a "drug deal" parking lot exchange at the hotel. I will be there oct 16-19 (wed-sat)

If I were going to Expo I'd get it. Great price.

#3228 2 years ago
Quoted from zerbam:

still looking for this one...............thanks[quoted image]

Yeah I could use one too. But I'll try to make one, I have a stationary belt sander and a scroll sander which will make it easily. Also have some different colored plex.
I made a Jackbot mini pf that's 99.99 perfect so this little piece should be a piece of cake.

#3229 2 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

that is definitely NOT a complete set. the question is just how many of the actual 17 playfield (+1 backboard) plastics are included. for $130 you can get a complete set which also includes the 8-9 promo pcs.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/31-3437-Set

Yup... marco is the way to go!

#3230 2 years ago

Why have one... when you can have two for twice the price...

5D202967-85DD-496F-8E4B-60C36D55A420 (resized).jpeg7EE88401-402D-4507-A921-19B6C64241B7 (resized).jpeg
#3231 2 years ago
Quoted from dashv:

Why have one... when you can have two for twice the price...

'Cause your CrayCray!

#3232 2 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

'Cause your CrayCray!

Poor people are crazy Zitt.

I’m eccentric.

The one on the right I just added to my collection as an upgrade. It has a shaker motor, new tmolding, a nicer playfield, freshly polished ramps and metals, a 3D translight, recapped motherboard, monitor and prism card, sweet art blades, and the sides of the playfield have felt installed to prevent scratching when lifting/lowering the playfield.

I didn’t personally do any of those upgrades. Someone else here on pinside did.

I have a shaker for the one on the left, I just need to get around to installing it. The one on the left also needs cleaning, center ramp replacement, and the left ramp switch fixed. I have all the parts. Just need time to actually do it.

#3233 2 years ago
Quoted from dashv:

Why have one... when you can have two for twice the price...[quoted image][quoted image]

Do either one of those machines happen have the square warning label on the rear door panel ? I’m looking for someone to take a clear picture of that label with a ruler along x and y edges to get that label reproduced.

Thanks !!!

#3234 2 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Do either one of those machines happen have the square warning label on the rear door panel ? I’m looking for someone to take a clear picture of that label with a ruler along x and y edges to get that label reproduced.
Thanks !!!

Take a picture of the area you are talking about and I’ll take a look.

#3236 2 years ago

Took pictures with measuring tape.

One of mine has it the other does not.

#3237 2 years ago

it's a shame that it has red text. I could knock those out using my zebra printer on BOPP (bopp biaxially oriented polypropylene) which is like candy bar wrapper material and you don't have to worry about it degrading over time. however, I only have access to black film, no red

edit:
apparently, I can order the wax resin film ribbon in red
https://wholesaler.alibaba.com/product-detail/red-color-premium-wax-label-printer_60508162250.html

#3238 2 years ago

Some progress on my machine. Standup targets now looks better. Maybe it’s even the correct ones?
Before and after pictures.

What kind of rivets do you use to hold down the center ramp flap? I used normal “blind rivets” (don’t know correct english word) but I find them too high. It’s very noticeable when the ball rolls over.

40BD243D-55DA-4DEC-AE68-A26990CC9548 (resized).jpegE689FA49-FFEC-4F5A-92D9-F0DDED93F2D6 (resized).jpeg
#3239 2 years ago

I used the normal 1/8" nickel plated brass rivets when I put a new ramp on mine and I didn't notice them to be any different from the original rivets

#3240 2 years ago
Quoted from j_m_:

I used the normal 1/8" nickel plated brass rivets when I put a new ramp on mine and I didn't notice them to be any different from the original rivets

With rivet, do you mean “popnit” (sorry, once again I don’t know the English term)? See picture below what I call popnit.

86285329-2798-422A-ABC5-47CE2E16BA92 (resized).jpeg
#3241 2 years ago
Quoted from HyyL:

With rivet, do you mean “popnit” (sorry, once again I don’t know the English term)? See picture below what I call popnit.[quoted image]

This is the normal rivets https://www.free-play.se/produkter/skruv-mutter/master-rivet-kit.html

Then you also need a rivet tool/punch to fold the end of the rivet over the backing washer properly.

#3242 2 years ago
Quoted from HyyL:

With rivet, do you mean “popnit” (sorry, once again I don’t know the English term)? See picture below what I call popnit.[quoted image]

nope, those are what we term as "pop rivets". see Lhyrgoif explanation. those are the type that I used with my rivet press.

#3243 2 years ago

Anyone got a spare lower lane playfield plastic A-23137 ? It's the plastic closest to the ball launcher. I don't need the black plastic spacers or the screws as I've got them already. Even a scratched one is fine, as long as it isn't broken.

I don't want to buy a complete set of PF plastic when I only need a single piece.

Please PM if you have one.
plastic (resized).jpg

#3244 2 years ago

What are people using for a replacement for the crt? Which led/lcd monitor?

#3245 2 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

What are people using for a replacement for the crt? Which led/lcd monitor?

Here is the suggestion from user Giulio.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-hillary-come-here-you-gotta-see-this/page/61#post-5089861

He also added scanline generator to this solution. PM him for more details.

#3246 2 years ago
Quoted from msj2222:

What are people using for a replacement for the crt? Which led/lcd monitor?

I just put this LED/LCD in mine. It came with a horrible 17" LCD that was way too small and fairly terrible in every way. I'm using this 24" LCD and it is working great. I absolutely love the image. I used the monitor settings and the CGA to VGA converter board to resize the image down a bit, otherwise it would be too wide. I like the 24" monitor because it gives me more height. I still have some tweaking with the positioning, but overall I love this monitor. I looked at a few, and this HP monitor had the best black levels at a very good price. I also like the adjustments that it had for resizing the image. It also has 'save state' built in, so it turns on automatically when power is restored. Not all of the do this. Still not as good as a CRT black level, but I love it.

HP - 24f 23.8" IPS LED FHD FreeSync Monitor - Natural Silver
Model:24F

I got it from Best Buy for $179. It's on sale now. Once I get the positioning just right, I'll make a nice black poster board surround to block out the sides of the screen that are not used when the image is shrunk down horizontally.

I looked at the 19" LED 4:3 drop in replacement type of monitors, but they were just too small. From what I've found, a 19" LCD arcade monitor is smaller that a 19" CRT as far as image size. I'm not convinced that the images would line up properly with the targets. I didn't want them to be close, I wanted them to be exactly over the right targets. Maybe I'm OCD about it, but if I can make them line up perfectly, why not do it? The 24" monitor is giving me lots of room to move around and tweak the image to get it just right.

#3247 2 years ago

The RFM is back in the lineup! The monitor went to the Pinball Shoppe in Cleveland for rejuvenation and recapping of the monitor board. The repair cost was very reasonable. Now I’ve gone from green screen to color on the original Wells Gardner.
Before and after pictures attached.

9C0524C0-12D6-42B3-ADE8-B2605DEEEEE9 (resized).jpeg307C63B0-0BE5-49B1-B33A-6B2AD2E70585 (resized).jpeg01C52CE3-14FC-4A3E-9485-5CD55AD5EB51 (resized).jpeg
#3248 2 years ago

msj2222 - my suggestion:

Quoted from mastercello:

This one here is a perfect drop in replacement, no need for converter as it will display the signal of the Pin2000 PC directly.
https://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/04/product-support/product/dell-u2410/overview
I did buy a used one for 80USD here in Europe.

#3249 2 years ago
Quoted from mastercello:

This one here is a perfect drop in replacement, no need for converter as it will display the signal of the Pin2000 PC directly.
https://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/04/product-support/product/dell-u2410/overview
I did buy a used one for 80USD here in Europe.

Whoa.. this worked on original hardware without a sync adapter or CGA converter?

#3250 2 years ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Whoa.. this worked on original hardware without a sync adapter or CGA converter?

Exactly, also it fits right into place...perfect dimensions!

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