(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

5 years ago



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#3151 4 months ago
Quoted from dashv:

Folks, I need to clean my playfield and replace the rubbers on my RFM. And would like to have some spare bulbs.
Is this kit a good deal?
I’d rather have some color on the playfield but not sure what would go well.
ebay.com link

Depends if you want to put regular bulbs in or want to go with led bulbs. I put white led with clear domes on top and under all the inserts in mine and it looks great I think. Do NOT color bomb your game with different colors on or in it.

#3152 4 months ago

New to the club! Finally! I've been wanting one of these for years and finally got to make it happen. It's a nice mix of the good, the bad, and the ugly. I think I'll start a full restore this winter. The seller (very nice guy) got two of them and combined the nicer playfield with the nicer cab. It's a German re-import and the playfield definitely has some mileage on it. The seller got it working, updated the system to v2.1, and I'm loving it!

Ever want to know what a 17" LCD that is actually closer to 16" would look like on the game? Wonder no more. It's terrible! haha

I see a lot of new parts in my future.

DSC03935---Smaller (resized).jpgDSC03936---Smaller (resized).jpgDSC03938---Smaller (resized).jpgDSC03940---Smaller (resized).jpgDSC03941---Smaller (resized).jpgDSC03944---Smaller (resized).jpgDSC03946---Smaller (resized).jpg
#3153 4 months ago
Quoted from Sleepdroid:

New to the club! Finally! I've been wanting one of these for years and finally got to make it happen. It's a nice mix of the good, the bad, and the ugly. I think I'll start a full restore this winter. The seller (very nice guy) got two of them and combined the nicer playfield with the nicer cab. It's a German re-import and the playfield definitely has some mileage on it. The seller got it working, updated the system to v2.1, and I'm loving it!
Ever want to know what a 17" LCD that is actually closer to 16" would look like on the game? Wonder no more. It's terrible! haha
I see a lot of new parts in my future. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Welcome to the club. It could use some work for sure but glad you finally got one.

#3154 4 months ago
Quoted from dashv:

Folks, I need to clean my playfield and replace the rubbers on my RFM. And would like to have some spare bulbs.
Is this kit a good deal?
I’d rather have some color on the playfield but not sure what would go well.
ebay.com link

To change the Slingshot rubbers you need to unplug the spotlamps.

#3155 4 months ago
Quoted from bob_e:

To change the Slingshot rubbers you need to unplug the spotlamps.

That’s fine. The silver paint is all chipped off on those. I have replacements to put in.

#3156 4 months ago
Quoted from dashv:

Folks, I need to clean my playfield and replace the rubbers on my RFM. And would like to have some spare bulbs.
Is this kit a good deal?
I’d rather have some color on the playfield but not sure what would go well.
ebay.com link

No. Don't do that kid.
Go to titanPinball.comand use their database to get sizes and build your own. You'll be happier; as many times, these kits are on the shelf so long they already dried out.

#3157 4 months ago
Quoted from Zitt:

No. Don't do that kid.
Go to
titanPinball.comand use their database to get sizes and build your own. You'll be happier; as many times, these kits are on the shelf so long they already dried out.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-hillary-come-here-you-gotta-see-this/page/57#post-5008871
And look at this post for the proper rubber kit - everything else you will find is flat out wrong....

#3158 4 months ago
Quoted from Sonic:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-hillary-come-here-you-gotta-see-this/page/57#post-5008871
And look at this post for the proper rubber kit - everything else you will find is flat out wrong....

Yeah.. I updated two kits @ Titan based on this sheet.

#3159 4 months ago
Quoted from Zitt:

No. Don't do that kid.
Go to
titanPinball.comand use their database to get sizes and build your own. You'll be happier; as many times, these kits are on the shelf so long they already dried out.

Yep, whiskeytango helped me identify what’s needed from titan.

#3160 4 months ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Don't do that kid.

*kit
not kid. I was like WTF when I re-read that. :LOL:

#3161 4 months ago

Anyone had any issue resetting high scores on v2.10? I’ve gone to Settings > Adjustments > High Scores and set the high scores to what I’d like, but they don’t seem to do anything. Am I missing something?

#3162 4 months ago
Quoted from Zitt:

*kit
not kid. I was like WTF when I re-read that. :LOL:

I read it being said in the voice of Han Solo.

#3163 4 months ago
Quoted from dashv:

I read it being said in the voice of Han Solo.

"Thats 2 ya owe me junior"

#3164 4 months ago
Quoted from thesav:

Anyone had any issue resetting high scores on v2.10? I’ve gone to Settings > Adjustments > High Scores and set the high scores to what I’d like, but they don’t seem to do anything. Am I missing something?

I’ll try adjusting mine tomorrow and see if I have the same issue.

#3165 4 months ago

Just cleaning up the work station - thought I'd snap a pic...an original WMS MRS, an original DE MRS and an original M&M Creations MRS.......more to built again soon, I promise...

20190828_165421 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#3166 4 months ago

I am having a strange issue with my RFM. I made a post about it in the tech: modern games and haven’t had any traction. So I thought I would post here.

Every time I turn my RFM on and wait for it to boot, the sound will only work if I unplug and plug back in the audio cable on the front of the cpu in the back box. Video below.

I put a new CRT in it and things worked fine. During the boot sequence you could hear the speaker “pop” when the amp powered up and then the “bong” sound when the sound was initiated during the boot/test sequence.

A few days ago I noticed that when it finished booting there was no pop, bong, or sound after the initial test sequence.

The first thing I did was unplug the speaker connector from the front of the cpu and then plug it back it. The sound started working as soon as it was plugged back in.

-This only happens with a hard power cycle of the machine, a restart in the service menu will not cause the machine to lose sound.

-The LED on the front of the audio amp is solid-on the entire time.

-The light on the prism card is on as well.

-I have reseated the connecting cable between the prism and amp.

My thought is that the amp is not initializing the speakers during the boot sequence?

Any thoughts? Many thanks in advance for any information.

#3167 4 months ago
Quoted from xedecimal:

I am having a strange issue with my RFM.

I don't have any solid advice, I'm afraid; need to post an update on my own booting problems soon here...

But I watched the video. Are you certain hitting the flipper should have generated a sound? (I believe you, tho!)

I didn't realize until watching this that you could unplug that cable and the computer stayed booted; I thought it was somehow wired in and turned the thing on/off - but I guess it's just application of power that's the switch for the PC?

Totally unrelated... but update your code! 1.2 is garbage!

#3168 4 months ago

I'm have never heard of that problem for a pin2000 before. Maybe a problem with the sound card (that sits inside the box were that connector enters)?

You could try reseat the black sound cables between the prism card going to the sound card.

#3169 4 months ago
Quoted from xedecimal:

I am having a strange issue with my RFM. I made a post about it in the tech: modern games and haven’t had any traction. So I thought I would post here.
Every time I turn my RFM on and wait for it to boot, the sound will only work if I unplug and plug back in the audio cable on the front of the cpu in the back box. Video below.
I put a new CRT in it and things worked fine. During the boot sequence you could hear the speaker “pop” when the amp powered up and then the “bong” sound when the sound was initiated during the boot/test sequence.
A few days ago I noticed that when it finished booting there was no pop, bong, or sound after the initial test sequence.
The first thing I did was unplug the speaker connector from the front of the cpu and then plug it back it. The sound started working as soon as it was plugged back in.
-This only happens with a hard power cycle of the machine, a restart in the service menu will not cause the machine to lose sound.
-The LED on the front of the audio amp is solid-on the entire time.
-The light on the prism card is on as well.
-I have reseated the connecting cable between the prism and amp.
My thought is that the amp is not initializing the speakers during the boot sequence?
Any thoughts? Many thanks in advance for any information.

I would check the caps on the motherboard, if they are leaking it may be causing some of your issues.

#3170 4 months ago

Any news on the unofficial ROM v2.2 progress?

I'm about to update to 2.1 for shaker/knocker support but then remembered I read something a while ago about an upcoming 2.2 and was thinking maybe I should wait until next release if it's in the near future.

#3171 4 months ago

This is a big post about my current booting woes and related issues; I will try to break it up with titles for the various sub-topics to make it more clear and break up the wall of text.

Cap Swap

Quoted from johnstewart:

Well shoot, fired up the arcade tonight and RFM won't boot (original hardware, except for LCD swap). Game doesn't play, no output to video at all. The CPU fan is spinning. This is the best tech page I've found; anyone know anything better?
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_2000_Repair#Motherboard_Issues
In particular I note the D50 LED on the PRISM card is solid amber. I'm not finding anything in the manual nor online about this LED; does anyone know what solid amber means?
Everything computer-wise seems to be spinning up.
Oh snap. As I was sitting here typing this out, it came up. Eeek, that doesn't inspire confidence.
I see the D50 LED is now flashing amber instead of solid on, so apparently:
solid == bad, flashing == good.
Are there any obvious fuses I should check? (edit, can't be a fuse; ain't never heard of a fuse blowing then going back to good)
If and when this recurs I'll confirm all power is good from the power supply. Next thing I'm thinking is maybe the capacitors on the motherboard? (According to the above URL, the green capacitors are not good, which is what I have, though none look obviously blown. )
Anything else to check the next time it's sick?

My electrical engineer friend suggested these as a high quality capacitor for the job; I bought them, he replaced the 5x caps noted as unreliable (though they looked to be in fine shape physically):
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-electronic-components/EEU-FR1C102LB/P15332CT-ND/3072212

The good news is that it was a successful capacitor surgery... it works. The bad news is my game is no better. It still doesn't come up on power on, but takes 15-20 minutes to come up. Then (knock wood) it plays fine.

Power Supply

I thought power seemed to be good; it looks to be a newer power supply and when I tested, it had slightly over 5 or 12 volts on most pins.

There was at least one pin that wasn't exactly around 5 or 12... but I assume that was intentional(??). I'm not finding anything in the manuals referencing the voltage on pins.

This is the PS, it looks like this is actually the model I have: amazon.com link » so a newish one. It seems unlikely to have gone kaput so soon, but I guess it's a cheap thing to swap, I may try that now that I know it's not the capacitors.

What are people doing for power supplies on Pin2k's? Looks like you can jumper an ATX style power supply, which I think would be more reliable/efficient/modern, no?

Prism Card

I tried pulling it to see if it would boot without the PRISM card in place; this didn't make any difference.

I did notice when pulling the motherboard to do the cap swap that there is a dangling cable off the power supply to the PRISM card that I don't *think* was ever plugged in.

Does everyone have this, and should it be plugged in somewhere?

IMG_3449 (resized).JPG

Video Card

As far as debugging this, it would be helpful to be able to do it with a monitor outside of the pinball machine. I've got some other LCDs I can plug in. What's the best way to get output at a "normal" refresh rate?

Is this card best for the job?
https://mypinballs.com/electronics/store.jsp

@applejuice this is you, right? The link to the details page is not coming up right now (https://mypinballs.com/electronics/cga_sync_adapter.jsp), FYI.

Switches

One of the problems with mine, after being on route for a long time, is the main shot up the middle doesn't register well. It looked like the switch got bent out of shape (literally) from taking a beating. I tried to bend the leaves of the switch and it seemed better for a bit, but now it's not registering hits much again. Is there a good guide on how to adjust these somewhere? Or, would it be best to just replace it?

Quoted from Sonic:

Just cleaning up the work station - thought I'd snap a pic...an original WMS MRS, an original DE MRS and an original M&M Creations MRS.......more to built again soon, I promise...[quoted image]

@sonic these are your creation?

These "MRS"es are switches that detect the ball traveling over it?

I have seen your mention of these... but I didn't see in the thread any info as to they're actually used on the game; I'd like to check mine to see if they're still good. Where in RFM are they used? And are making more soon?

Thank you all for your help!

#3172 4 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

For those of you who bought my Stern motor pigtail... I’ve just finished correcting some intermittent issues with it. The fuse holder was crap and the .156 connector was not as robust as it could be.
It’s redesigned, all fixed and rock solid! I will be sending out replacements this week.
[quoted image]

ricochet I got the initial one, then the replacement upgraded pigtail before I even installed the first; thank you.

I installed but the fuse blew right away. I've since ordered replacements (2A, slow blow): amazon.com link »

... the first ALSO seemed to immediately blow. I've not tried another yet.

The only action out of the shaker motor (brand new authorized Stern) was briefly after the first install. Didn't feel a thing since.

I wonder if you had any further problems since the new design? Or if maybe there's more to the story (2A insufficient?). I guess next steps would be to confirm 12V coming to the shaker itself? And if that's good, maybe I'll see if I can find a 12V power supply to wire to the shaker to test (if it somehow seized right away for some reason, it could be drawing a lot more amperage?).

thanks!

#3173 4 months ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

ricochet I got the initial one, then the replacement upgraded pigtail before I even installed the first; thank you.
I installed but the fuse blew right away. I've since ordered replacements (2A, slow blow): amazon.com link »
... the first ALSO seemed to immediately blow. I've not tried another yet.
The only action out of the shaker motor (brand new authorized Stern) was briefly after the first install. Didn't feel a thing since.
I wonder if you had any further problems since the new design? Or if maybe there's more to the story (2A insufficient?). I guess next steps would be to confirm 12V coming to the shaker itself? And if that's good, maybe I'll see if I can find a 12V power supply to wire to the shaker to test (if it somehow seized right away for some reason, it could be drawing a lot more amperage?).
thanks!

Whaaaaaat? This is concerning. I really tested the heck out of this. I have the same exact fuse. I bought them all at once from DigiKey ... they are littlefuse brand because some of those cheap ones are known to have issues.

If this ends up to be a problem for you or anyone else I will just give you your money back. I don’t want this to be anything but 100% perfect

2A slo-blo is right. Issue I had before was poor connection to the fuse... and crap fuses.

#3174 4 months ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

This is a big post about my current booting woes and related issues; I will try to break it up with titles for the various sub-topics to make it more clear and break up the wall of text.

Cap Swap

My electrical engineer friend suggested these as a high quality capacitor for the job; I bought them, he replaced the 5x caps noted as unreliable (though they looked to be in fine shape physically):
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-electronic-components/EEU-FR1C102LB/P15332CT-ND/3072212
The good news is that it was a successful capacitor surgery... it works. The bad news is my game is no better. It still doesn't come up on power on, but takes 15-20 minutes to come up. Then (knock wood) it plays fine.

Power Supply

I thought power seemed to be good; it looks to be a newer power supply and when I tested, it had slightly over 5 or 12 volts on most pins.
There was at least one pin that wasn't exactly around 5 or 12... but I assume that was intentional(??). I'm not finding anything in the manuals referencing the voltage on pins.
This is the PS, it looks like this is actually the model I have: amazon.com link » so a newish one. It seems unlikely to have gone kaput so soon, but I guess it's a cheap thing to swap, I may try that now that I know it's not the capacitors.
What are people doing for power supplies on Pin2k's? Looks like you can jumper an ATX style power supply, which I think would be more reliable/efficient/modern, no?

Prism Card

I tried pulling it to see if it would boot without the PRISM card in place; this didn't make any difference.
I did notice when pulling the motherboard to do the cap swap that there is a dangling cable off the power supply to the PRISM card that I don't *think* was ever plugged in.
Does everyone have this, and should it be plugged in somewhere?
[quoted image]

Video Card

As far as debugging this, it would be helpful to be able to do it with a monitor outside of the pinball machine. I've got some other LCDs I can plug in. What's the best way to get output at a "normal" refresh rate?
Is this card best for the job?
https://mypinballs.com/electronics/store.jsp
@applejuice this is you, right? The link to the details page is not coming up right now (https://mypinballs.com/electronics/cga_sync_adapter.jsp), FYI.

Switches

One of the problems with mine, after being on route for a long time, is the main shot up the middle doesn't register well. It looked like the switch got bent out of shape (literally) from taking a beating. I tried to bend the leaves of the switch and it seemed better for a bit, but now it's not registering hits much again. Is there a good guide on how to adjust these somewhere? Or, would it be best to just replace it?

@sonic these are your creation?
These "MRS"es are switches that detect the ball traveling over it?
I have seen your mention of these... but I didn't see in the thread any info as to they're actually used on the game; I'd like to check mine to see if they're still good. Where in RFM are they used? And are making more soon?
Thank you all for your help!

On the PSU... I use the AT one you referenced. A newer ATX style can be used but you'll loose the power switch and need to jumper the soft start switch line on the PSU.

On the PRISM card. That connector is the reset connection. It connects onto the mother board (towards the end of the header next to the card slot)... so that the prism card can reset the computer.

On the LCD. Do you have and "arcade compatible" LCD? VisionPro or something like that? You must if you have direct connection to the computer. To connect to a standard computer LCD you need two things, 1. A VGA to CGA converter... a common one is the GBS-8200. They can be found on Amazon and 2. A sync combiner, mypinballs makes a nice onel

#3175 4 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Whaaaaaat? This is concerning. I really tested the heck out of this. I have the same exact fuse. I bought them all at once from DigiKey ... they are littlefuse brand because some of those cheap ones are known to have issues.
If this ends up to be a problem for you or anyone else I will just give you your money back. I don’t want this to be anything but 100% perfect
2A slo-blo is right. Issue I had before was poor connection to the fuse... and crap fuses.

OK I managed to investigate a little more. Some interesting points:

I noticed my F101 fuse was blown. I don't have any on hand; some sitting in my Amazon cart now. In the meantime, I pulled F100 and put it in F101.

After I did that, I was getting voltage on testing the shaker coming out of the harness by applejuice (keeping your pigtail out of it ricochet - it's not 12V, it's 70VDC!!

It seems like that'd do it if the shaker is expecting 12VDC.

Either I don't have it hooked up right (going to go try to take some photos now and check) or something else is amiss.

#3176 4 months ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

Does everyone have this, and should it be plugged in somewhere?

That is the reset for the motherboard.

Quoted from johnstewart:

What are people doing for power supplies on Pin2k's? Looks like you can jumper an ATX style power supply, which I think would be more reliable/efficient/modern, no?

I've been using the 400 watt version without issues.
amazon.com link »

#3177 4 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

On the PRISM card. That connector is the reset connection. It connects onto the mother board (towards the end of the header next to the card slot)... so that the prism card can reset the computer.

This is something that happens? And is important?

#3178 4 months ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

OK I managed to investigate a little more. Some interesting points:
I noticed my F101 fuse was blown. I don't have any on hand; some sitting in my Amazon cart now. In the meantime, I pulled F100 and put it in F101.
After I did that, I was getting voltage on testing the shaker coming out of the harness by applejuice (keeping your pigtail out of it ricochet - it's not 12V, it's 70VDC!!
It seems like that'd do it if the shaker is expecting 12VDC.
Either I don't have it hooked up right (going to go try to take some photos now and check) or something else is amiss.

Here's a photo of where the shaker plugs in using the @applejuice harness:

IMG_3459 (resized).JPG

While I was in there... took a photo of this... the "stay arm" instructions. Can anyone explain how I'm supposed to use it?

IMG_3460 (resized).JPG

IMG_3458 (resized).JPG
#3179 4 months ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

This is something that happens? And is important?

It is likely used for watchdog failure or anytime a reboot is needed. Not something that happens during normal power up and run situation.

Quoted from johnstewart:

Here's a photo of where the shaker plugs in using the @applejuice harness:
[quoted image]
While I was in there... took a photo of this... the "stay arm" instructions. Can anyone explain how I'm supposed to use it?
[quoted image][quoted image]

You’re harness looks to be connected right. Just make sure you have the motor connected to the yellow/orange leg of the harness.

#3180 4 months ago

I am having trouble with the horizontal hold on my rfm. A few weeks ago it started scrolling and I wasnt able to stabalize it using the adjustments. It would seem like I had it and then would start scrolling again. I tried using switch cleaner on the adj. pots and seemed to have helped , but when I turned her on lastnight..it was back. Any fixes for this??

#3181 4 months ago
Quoted from msj2222:

I am having trouble with the horizontal hold on my rfm. A few weeks ago it started scrolling and I wasnt able to stabalize it using the adjustments. It would seem like I had it and then would start scrolling again. I tried using switch cleaner on the adj. pots and seemed to have helped , but when I turned her on lastnight..it was back. Any fixes for this??

Possibly the pot is on the way out, they do go dodgy over time. You could try reflowing the solder on the 3 pot legs. Could be a different issue with the chassis board but that would be my first thought. The pots are readily available if you need to change one over, just remember to get the correct ohm rating.

#3182 4 months ago

Hello

I’m new to Pinside and have a RFM in my basement. Fun game but my machine still needs a lot of love. New flippers and a lot of cleaning is done, soon time to change bumper waffles. Should also do the software upgrade.

Having some trouble locating the correct stand up targets in the middle. Can some one take a photo and show how yours look?

#3183 4 months ago
Quoted from Mancave:

Possibly the pot is on the way out, they do go dodgy over time. You could try reflowing the solder on the 3 pot legs. Could be a different issue with the chassis board but that would be my first thought. The pots are readily available if you need to change one over, just remember to get the correct ohm rating.

Thanks, i will try that. It does seem to correct a bit when i put pressure on the pot. I also thought the resistor for the pot may be glitchy...does that happen? I have been wanting to ad a video amp or switch to a led screen but dont feel its something i can do. I have read several posts on the subject and get confused

#3184 4 months ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

@sonic these are your creation?
These "MRS"es are switches that detect the ball traveling over it?
I have seen your mention of these... but I didn't see in the thread any info as to they're actually used on the game; I'd like to check mine to see if they're still good. Where in RFM are they used? And are making more soon?
Thank you all for your help!

Yes these are - they are replacement MRS' - magnetic reed switches - that are found in a handful of pins - including the 3 in RFM - 3 are clustered together straight up the middle of the playfield for the ball lock - underneath the playfield.....they went unobtanium a several years ago - so I've remade them....I'm working on making more soon.......

#3185 4 months ago

any one have this plastic that i need?

image-29 (resized).jpg
#3186 4 months ago
Quoted from msj2222:

Thanks, i will try that. It does seem to correct a bit when i put pressure on the pot. I also thought the resistor for the pot may be glitchy...does that happen? I have been wanting to ad a video amp or switch to a led screen but dont feel its something i can do. I have read several posts on the subject and get confused

That does sound suspiciously like a possible broken leg on the pot yeah, might be broken through but the two sides still kind of touching each other. Resistors like any component can go bad over time but i'm thinking the pot is the main culprit. I think adding the video amp isn't too hard to do, didn't have one on my machine when i owned it though so others in the club will be able to provide more precise info. I've said it many times in the club...KEEP the CRT if at all possible

#3187 4 months ago
Quoted from zerbam:

any one have this plastic that i need?

Sits to the left of the center targets? I may have a repaired one somewhere, from memory mine was broken in half and it was re-glued and braced from underneath. It's been a while but i'm fairly sure i got a spare new one from somewhere

#3188 4 months ago

I could swear that I've seen that plastic as part of the goodie bag. sad part is that all of these "common" parts that were plentiful on ebay just 6 months to a year ago seemed to have drying up

#3189 4 months ago
Quoted from Mancave:

That does sound suspiciously like a possible broken leg on the pot yeah, might be broken through but the two sides still kind of touching each other. Resistors like any component can go bad over time but i'm thinking the pot is the main culprit. I think adding the video amp isn't too hard to do, didn't have one on my machine when i owned it though so others in the club will be able to provide more precise info. I've said it many times in the club...KEEP the CRT if at all possible

Thanks, I am planning to try and reflow that pot tomorrow. I will report back on the results!

#3190 4 months ago
Quoted from zerbam:

any one have this plastic that i need?[quoted image]

I had a broken one too. I took it to a sign shop and they were able to scan it and create a new one. I just had him do it in black plastic because it's mostly in a dark area and would make fabrication much simpler. I found a picture of it online, adjusted it to scale, and took that with what was left of my broken plastic.

RFM new 1 (resized).jpgRFM new 2 (resized).jpg
#3191 4 months ago
Quoted from Clytor:

I had a broken one too. I took it to a sign shop and they were able to scan it and create a new one. I just had him do it in black plastic because it's mostly in a dark area and would make fabrication much simpler. I found a picture of it online, adjusted it to scale, and took that with what was left of my broken plastic.[quoted image][quoted image]

Hmmm.... I could 3D print those in glow-in-the-dark green plastic. Anyone interested?

#3192 4 months ago

Does anyone have issues with the lamp in this area getting broken? The ball hits the rubber and the lamp.

#3193 4 months ago
Quoted from hAbO:

Does anyone have issues with the lamp in this area getting broken? The ball hits the rubber and the lamp.

Yep, I put a flush mount led (no dome) there.

#3194 4 months ago

Thanks! I didn't think of that...duh

#3195 4 months ago

sorry, duplicate post

#3196 4 months ago

I tried reflowing that pot but just made it worse. Now when I get it close to the horizonal hold I just get a solid line across the monitor. It will scroll up and down but when I get close to center it just goes to this solid line in the middle. Any ideas??
20190911_102916 (resized).jpg

20190911_102928 (resized).jpg20190911_102933 (resized).jpg
#3197 4 months ago

could be a bad potentiometer altogether. cleaning up a cold solder joint by reflowing won't necessarily correct the issue

#3198 4 months ago
Quoted from j_m_:

could be a bad potentiometer altogether. cleaning up a cold solder joint by reflowing won't necessarily correct the issue

Before I reflowed it would just not hold, it would scroll slowly. Now I get that solid line when I get close to locking in. Seems like I made it worse. Are those control boards available..is there a part# ? I'm not sure where to go with this now

#3199 4 months ago
Quoted from msj2222:

Before I reflowed it would just not hold, it would scroll slowly. Now I get that solid line when I get close to locking in. Seems like I made it worse. Are those control boards available..is there a part# ? I'm not sure where to go with this now

You should only need to replace that particular pot, but make sure the ohm value is the same as the original. I had a similar issue with a remote board like this on a Leyland Super OffRoad machine, started off with the picture not holding and on closer inspection i realised the pot was cracked through one side above the leg. Once i changed the pot to a new one it was good as gold. I'm not sure what the Ohm value is on that particular pot, they do vary across the board, not always the same ohm rating. Usually the value is printed on the pot somewhere, sometimes on the edges of the body, sometimes on the adjustment side.

#3200 4 months ago
Quoted from Mancave:

You should only need to replace that particular pot, but make sure the ohm value is the same as the original. I had a similar issue with a remote board like this on a Leyland Super OffRoad machine, started off with the picture not holding and on closer inspection i realised the pot was cracked through one side above the leg. Once i changed the pot to a new one it was good as gold. I'm not sure what the Ohm value is on that particular pot, they do vary across the board, not always the same ohm rating. Usually the value is printed on the pot somewhere, sometimes on the edges of the body, sometimes on the adjustment side.

I just dont understand why the problem would escalate by just reflowing. Is there a way to verify its a bad pot? Are the the ohms printed on the top?

15682158177854157783156976687482 (resized).jpg
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