(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by applejuice
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There are 3123 posts in this topic. You are on page 63 of 63.
#3101 12 days ago
Quoted from alpo3744:

I am moving and need to move my RFM but I can not remember how to take the monitor off and what needs to be disconnected. Is anyone able to help?

If your unit is stock... it's fairly self explanatory once you see what is coming up from the main cabinet, and all pretty much just unplugs easily...

Unplug AC power (green, white, black) molex from Computer
Unplug AC power (green, white, black) molex from Monitor
Unplug speaker/power cable (3 pin and 2 pin molex connector)
Unplug 9 pin serial cable from computer (the one that goes into the cabinet)
Unplug 25 pin parallel cable from the computer
Unscrew ground strap (bottom left) and remove the connection from the inside of the cabinet
Remove mounting bolts (hex drive) and bushings that hold the box to the cabinet.

#3102 12 days ago
Quoted from alpo3744:

I am moving and need to move my RFM but I can not remember how to take the monitor off and what needs to be disconnected. Is anyone able to help?

Here is the Bally/William's pinball 2000 video including set up instructions. The back box instructions are at 4:07 in the video. Just reverse the sequence to remove the back box.

#3103 11 days ago
Quoted from alpo3744:

I am moving and need to move my RFM but I can not remember how to take the monitor off and what needs to be disconnected. Is anyone able to help?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-hillary-come-here-you-gotta-see-this/page/40#post-4367238

#3104 9 days ago

Starting my restoration... I do coin doors first cause I HATE doing them !!!! I’m trying the clear coin reject and entry pieces with green LEDs... dunno.

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#3105 7 days ago

Well shoot, fired up the arcade tonight and RFM won't boot (original hardware, except for LCD swap). Game doesn't play, no output to video at all. The CPU fan is spinning. This is the best tech page I've found; anyone know anything better?
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_2000_Repair#Motherboard_Issues

In particular I note the D50 LED on the PRISM card is solid amber. I'm not finding anything in the manual nor online about this LED; does anyone know what solid amber means?

Everything computer-wise seems to be spinning up.

Oh snap. As I was sitting here typing this out, it came up. Eeek, that doesn't inspire confidence.

I see the D50 LED is now flashing amber instead of solid on, so apparently:

solid == bad, flashing == good.

Are there any obvious fuses I should check? (edit, can't be a fuse; ain't never heard of a fuse blowing then going back to good)

If and when this recurs I'll confirm all power is good from the power supply. Next thing I'm thinking is maybe the capacitors on the motherboard? (According to the above URL, the green capacitors are not good, which is what I have, though none look obviously blown. )

Anything else to check the next time it's sick?

#3106 7 days ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

. Next thing I'm thinking is maybe the capacitors on the motherboard?

That's my first guess.
On my Mobo; the caps started bulging. Unless you have the equipment to replace these easily (a good vacuum desolderer); you'll want to send this out to borygard for repair if they are indeed bulging.
Otherwise; IIRC - the original PSU was a Deer AT powersupply. I'm pretty sure I replaced mine as soon as I found it.

#3107 6 days ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

Well shoot, fired up the arcade tonight and RFM won't boot (original hardware, except for LCD swap). Game doesn't play, no output to video at all. The CPU fan is spinning. This is the best tech page I've found; anyone know anything better?
http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Pinball_2000_Repair#Motherboard_Issues
In particular I note the D50 LED on the PRISM card is solid amber. I'm not finding anything in the manual nor online about this LED; does anyone know what solid amber means?
Everything computer-wise seems to be spinning up.
Oh snap. As I was sitting here typing this out, it came up. Eeek, that doesn't inspire confidence.
I see the D50 LED is now flashing amber instead of solid on, so apparently:
solid == bad, flashing == good.
Are there any obvious fuses I should check? (edit, can't be a fuse; ain't never heard of a fuse blowing then going back to good)
If and when this recurs I'll confirm all power is good from the power supply. Next thing I'm thinking is maybe the capacitors on the motherboard? (According to the above URL, the green capacitors are not good, which is what I have, though none look obviously blown. )
Anything else to check the next time it's sick?

As always take a close look at what you have ... on mine, at first glance it looked like it had already been gone over. The power supply was replaced and the heat sink/fan had been replaced on the CPU.

The PSU was ATX type so it had been modified to work (which is fine)... but I decided to check the CPU cooler and the person before didn't actually remove the original thermal pad or prep/clean the IC. They put some crappy compound on top of the pad and it was all dried up and crumbly. So I basically had little to no real cooling. I also replaced the caps as a preventative measure as they came from the era of the "capacitor plaque".

I never trust anything I get second hand (especially pinball machines)... everything "working" doesn't mean it is or that its in true good working order.

#3108 6 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I also replaced the caps as a preventative measure as they came from the era of the "capacitor plaque".
I never trust anything I get second hand (especially pinball machines)... everything "working" doesn't mean it is or that its in true good working order.

ricochet and zitt do you know the specs on the capacitors to replace?

From that pinwiki page:

The green caps are 6.3v, 1000uf, 105c and made by TAYEH. These are the ones that you will usually find as bulged, popped, or leaking. If you see light blue 10v 1000uf, 105c caps from Xicon, you’re probably all right. I haven’t seen any of these bulged or leaking and your problem probably lies elsewhere.

OK... so do I want 10v 1000uf 105c, or 6.3v?

Also, what the heck is "c" here? I thought capacitors had a voltage (v) and a capacitance (uf); what the heck is c?

And, I think I can replace it with a higher voltage capable one, I'm good. In other words, a 10v capacitor can replace a 6.3v one (but not vice-versa, obviously)?

Can you recommend a place to buy? I"m comfortable enough with desoldering/replacing myself.

#3109 6 days ago

"C" is for Celsius. Temperature rating.
Go with the higher-rated 10V cap.
These are multi-layer boards with fairly heavy ground/power planes... so desoldering may be more difficult than you'd expect.

#3110 6 days ago

mattosborn is absolutely right on reworking those caps. You really need good equipment to remove them.

I like to use greatplainselectronics.com whenever possible. Otherwise digikey.com or mouser.com

#3111 5 days ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

ricochet and zitt do you know the specs on the capacitors to replace?

I do not. Just look at the Caps in your board and replace if they are bulging or have evidence of liquid escaping.

Quoted from johnstewart:

Also, what the heck is "c" here? I thought capacitors had a voltage (v) and a capacitance (uf); what the heck is c?

And, I think I can replace it with a higher voltage capable one, I'm good. In other words, a 10v capacitor can replace a 6.3v one (but not vice-versa, obviously)?

Can you recommend a place to buy? I"m comfortable enough with desoldering/replacing myself.

This is a multi-layer Motherboard - maybe 6 or more layers. Simple desoldering you've been use-to on pinball boards won't cut the mustard on this. IE it's hard to desolder all those layers without damaging inner layers... or applying enough heat to melt the solder on the massive power planes these caps are on.
Seriously; unless you've worked on 4+ layer boards with some high end thru hole desoldering equipment - just don't. Consult a professional.

If you're still serious about ruining your board yourself; capacitance (uF) can generally be replaced with slightly larger value caps without issue. IE only have 1200uf but the original is 1000uf.
Voltage rating of the cap (VDC) is simular. You should try to match voltages in general. This measurement is "working voltage". Running a 50V electro in place of a 6.3VDC may lead to issues, IIRC. Never use a lower rated voltage cap in place of a higher. Sparks will fly.
Temperature ratings (degrees C) are ratings for the temperature profile of a given device. I usually go with higher temperature for motherboard caps. IE I will replace 80C caps with 105C as long as they are rated better. IF you are really curious: Wikipediahas a good description of lifetime effects and failure modes. See Arrhenius rule.

#3112 5 days ago

Yikes! Okay, I'm sufficiently scared. Will contact borygard, and also am reaching out to local folks; I know some electronics nerds locally.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CERHL-1000uF-25V

25V seems to be all Great Plains has.
"Best alternate for replacing bulging 1000uF, 10V capacitors within Samsung LCD TV's."
...makes me think this will suffice, ya?

Or Digikey:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/rubycon/10ZLH1000MEFC10X12.5/1189-1072-ND/3134015

#3113 4 days ago

Did a quick check of the green LEDs on the coin entry ... I think I’m going to stick with it! It’s a deeper green in real life, the camera is washing out the pic a bit. The little ruby flakes in the finish also twinkle nicely in the light.
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#3114 4 days ago

Get some coin reject art on that coin buttons - Stat:
http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?p=88

CoinRejectSTRFM-300x211 (resized).jpg
#3115 4 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Get some coin reject art on that coin buttons - Stat:
http://pinball-mods.com/blogs/?p=88[quoted image]

Oooh! Yep that's gonna happen! THANKS!

#3116 2 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Did a quick check of the green LEDs on the coin entry ... I think I’m going to stick with it! It’s a deeper green in real life, the camera is washing out the pic a bit. The little ruby flakes in the finish also twinkle nicely in the light.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Pretty! I might have to do that as well!

#3117 2 days ago

I have a RFM with a dead monitor. I have decided to do the lcd screen upgrade and have been reading up on how to to the conversion in previous posts, but I am looking for any opinion on the monitor to get, and which cga-vga converter. Is there a consensus on the best way to go about the switch? Thanks in advance!!!

#3118 2 days ago
Quoted from gibsonrd:

I have a RFM with a dead monitor

9 out of 10 times it's the monitor chassis board that will have gone and not the monitor itself. The chassis boards can be repaired! I don't have this machine any more but i will always advocate keeping the machine CRT whenever it is still possible.

#3119 2 days ago

If you do decide to go LCD; please don't trash the CRT. Donate it to someone here who can keep it for parts/repair. CRTs are no longer being made; and replacement tubes are hard to find. It'd be a sad day if the CRT ended up in China/Philippines ewaste craters.

#3120 2 days ago
Quoted from gibsonrd:

I have a RFM with a dead monitor. I have decided to do the lcd screen upgrade and have been reading up on how to to the conversion in previous posts, but I am looking for any opinion on the monitor to get, and which cga-vga converter. Is there a consensus on the best way to go about the switch? Thanks in advance!!!

If you decide to remove the CRT I would be interested in purchasing it from you.

#3121 2 days ago
Quoted from Mancave:

9 out of 10 times it's the monitor chassis board that will have gone and not the monitor itself. The chassis boards can be repaired! I don't have this machine any more but i will always advocate keeping the machine CRT whenever it is still possible.

This^ and adding the Ultimarc video amplifier makes the picture look even better on your CRT.

#3122 1 day ago

I have some monitor chassis's available for wells gardner monitors and ducksan to i think, plus some original computer parts if you are in need of something. motherboards, prism cards, empty cases, sound cards etc etc. Get in touch if you need something.

#3123 1 day ago

Code updates wise, working on finishing up the midnight madness mode and some other tweaks. Aiming for 1 more release this year time depending

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