(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,488 posts
  • 314 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by daveyvandy
  • Topic is favorited by 146 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 792 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

54b479f5d1714bc7e997a60c864519b8623a50c7 (resized).jpg
449d01f53dd558c8665f29a076e4d6d692d5443f (resized).jpg
4433b6c876339de711aaa4974126e6d3a78315a0.jpeg (resized).jpg
4e2b94aa91b1e03a057d5bfec58105165fa17eb1.jpeg (resized).jpg
MRS-R (resized).jpg
IMG_20191230_210018 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191230_202548 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191230_131513__01 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191230_131603__01 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191230_130805__01 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191230_131021__01 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191230_130237__01 (resized).jpg
75540257_10220752581987502_5189785876279853056_n (resized).jpg
IMG_20191215_103802 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191215_103629 (resized).jpg
IMG_20191209_152801 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

4 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 3488 posts in this topic. You are on page 62 of 70.
#3051 6 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Excellent work!

Thanks! I've got a couple more little tweaks, then they'll be on Thingiverse. I've also got some translucent red PETG that I think would look pretty cool.

#3052 6 months ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

I've also got some translucent red PETG that I think would look pretty cool.

Ohh...sign me up for a set.

#3053 6 months ago
Quoted from Zennmaster:

I'm really not sure why this seems to have become such a big issue among people.
The 3rd-party Stern-compatible shaker that I got from Pinaball Life came with an ugly, bulky, flimsy and not terribly well-designed or manufactured cover, which gets in the way of a playfield foot. It's not integral to the design of the shaker, and only attaches to the top of the assembly after it's been installed, and prevents access to anything below it, including the mounting bolts. It seemed to me that it was a better idea to cut a small hole in a cheap plastic part that no one wold ever see rather than drill more holes in the bottom of my cabinet.
I don't see why this is a big deal. Nonetheless, it did start to bug me, so I spent 15 minutes with OpenSCAD and threw a set of end covers onto the Prusa using PETG.
The results are much more compact, much stiffer and stronger, look better and solve the issue.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Yup... I like it. I may want a set of these

#3054 6 months ago

I've got pretty much everything nailed down (still need an email J_M_ ) for the first 10 MRS'......at this time MRS' are $25/unit and domestic shipping is $4.50 whereas shipping to the UK is $15....I presume Australia and Canada will be a different price - I'll work on that next....

I have another 15 units partially completed - just need to finish them off in the next couple weeks....

#3055 6 months ago
Quoted from Sonic:

I've got pretty much everything nailed down (still need an email J_M_ ) for the first 10 MRS'......at this time MRS' are $25/unit and domestic shipping is $4.50 whereas shipping to the UK is $15....I presume Australia and Canada will be a different price - I'll work on that next....
I have another 15 units partially completed - just need to finish them off in the next couple weeks....

Hey sonic I've got a couple dead switches so put me on the wait list for your next batch. Thx!

#3056 6 months ago

Very much appreciate your work, Sonic! Looking forward to getting the switch. I'll definitely be in for more when others have had theirs shipped.

#3057 6 months ago

Sonic : if shipping to France is feasible, I'm in

To All: man down, need help.

My rfm is original with 2.10.
I've set-up a shaker with a 12v motor used for stern shaker. Direct connection plus the fuse(2.5A SB).

When I made the test in coil test menu, the activation of the shaker worked well but the menu was going back one level directly.
I suspected a small bug. I anyway activated the shaker in the settings and launched a game.

And that worked well, shaker went on during the missile launches etc. SO GREAT AND SO SHAKY

but suddenly, I had a "DOOR OPEN, 50V disabled" message. The door was still closed.
I checked the switch and it was not unplugged. I was also no longer able to use the door buttons to go to the menu.
I then restarted the pinball and it seems the pinball had a reset.
I'm now on the country selector menu and I can't move as buttons are still non operational.
So much frustration.
Any guidance ??

applejuice : how can I make a donation, shaker addition is so cool !

#3058 6 months ago

Blown fuse.

And your shaker needs a resistor 1ohm/10W for example

#3059 6 months ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

applejuice : how can I make a donation, shaker addition is so cool !

#3060 6 months ago

Thanks guys.
Out at the moment, will give a try when back.
I wonder which fuse can disable the door button ??

#3061 6 months ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

I wonder which fuse can disable the door button ??

I'm guessing because the +50V is out; the door thinks it's closed; disabling the buttons via software.

#3062 6 months ago

My Stern SAM shaker fits fine. There is very little play ... and you should mount it as far right as possible (with little to no space between the side wall and the shaker cover.

FD293F92-A740-4B5E-A01D-1D7A4408DF45 (resized).jpeg
#3063 6 months ago
Quoted from Ahoernchen:

Blown fuse.
And your shaker needs a resistor 1ohm/10W for example

No it doesn’t need a resistor . As I said in my instruction sheet we are running from 12v dc directly not a rectified ac voltage like on stern sam games

#3064 6 months ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Sonic : if shipping to France is feasible, I'm in
To All: man down, need help.
My rfm is original with 2.10.
I've set-up a shaker with a 12v motor used for stern shaker. Direct connection plus the fuse(2.5A SB).
When I made the test in coil test menu, the activation of the shaker worked well but the menu was going back one level directly.
I suspected a small bug. I anyway activated the shaker in the settings and launched a game.
And that worked well, shaker went on during the missile launches etc. SO GREAT AND SO SHAKY
but suddenly, I had a "DOOR OPEN, 50V disabled" message. The door was still closed.
I checked the switch and it was not unplugged. I was also no longer able to use the door buttons to go to the menu.
I then restarted the pinball and it seems the pinball had a reset.
I'm now on the country selector menu and I can't move as buttons are still non operational.
So much frustration.
Any guidance ??
applejuice : how can I make a donation, shaker addition is so cool !

I would double check you didn’t dislodge the cabinet switch plug on the driver board when you installed the new loom.

As for donations visit my site https://myPinballs.com the button to donate is next to the download image and link. Any donations are greatly received as it takes hundreds of hours along with testing to create decent updates. Not to mention stumping up the cash for all shaker looms up front.

Speaking of which I have an idea to commission some new graphics for a new feature mode. Set In an abandoned theme park with zombies perhaps then the aliens turn up....

#3065 6 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:...Speaking of which I have an idea to commission some new graphics for a new feature mode. Set In an abandoned theme park with zombies perhaps then the aliens turn up....

Very cool!!!!!

#3066 6 months ago

Can anyone tell me what the heck these things are???

53018B22-511D-4272-A528-2952C1C8E000 (resized).jpeg
#3067 6 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Can anyone tell me what the heck these things are???

Those look like coin entry plates that only allow special tokens to be used.

#3068 6 months ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

Those look like coin entry plates that only allow special tokens to be used.

Yup that was my first thought ... but the shape of the slot didn’t make sense to me... especially for a round token.

#3069 6 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yup that was my first thought ... but the shape of the slot didn’t make sense to me... especially for a round token.

Double slotted security token:

https://e-service.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/products-21511600_metal_token-e1529583940251.jpg

#3071 6 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Speaking of which I have an idea to commission some new graphics for a new feature mode. Set In an abandoned theme park with zombies perhaps then the aliens turn up....

You sir, are the real MVP.

#3072 6 months ago

I like also this idea.

Quoted from Pinballgeek:

Not sure if it's been implemented and my ears are shot but applejuice what's the possibility that during Martian aerobics which is just a space Invaders clone, to actually have the original space Invaders sound effects when the martians move / speed up as well as the missile shots ?

#3073 6 months ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I'm guessing because the +50V is out; the door thinks it's closed; disabling the buttons via software.

You win !
Putting a new fuse helped me to get the pinball running again.
The settings were lost so I put again in free play and shaker enabled.
I managed to play some balls and shaker was working but I got some messages as 'OPEN DOOR to operate buttons' after shaker activation.
I also got few TILT on strong activation
Then finally, fuse blew again.

applejuice, no diode is needed on shaker ? I'm suspecting some current to go back due to shaker induction by inertia.

#3074 6 months ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

You win !
Putting a new fuse helped me to get the pinball running again.
The settings were lost so I put again in free play and shaker enabled.
I managed to play some balls and shaker was working but I got some messages as 'OPEN DOOR to operate buttons' after shaker activation.
I also got few TILT on strong activation
Then finally, fuse blew again.
applejuice, no diode is needed on shaker ? I'm suspecting some current to go back due to shaker induction by inertia.

Can we check that you plugged the shaker into the 12v connector and not the 50v one. 12v for shaker (orange and yellow), 50v for knocker (brown and blue). See instructions for more detail. I don't see why a 50v fuse would blow if you run a 12v motor. Also i've not seen the need for additional diodes on shaker motors unless you feed an ac voltage instead of a dc one.

The driver board has coil diodes included on every output (even though coils have them to, backup i guess) so my only thought currently is perhaps the coil diode for the shaker drive is leaking and potentially shorting the 50v line when activated.

#3075 6 months ago

Finally got 20 minutes of my life to myself to mount the shaker ...

I put it as far right and front as possible... so it would be easy to get the cover on and off. The blocking for the prop rod and the leg anchor pretty much determined where it was to be mounted

I marked the two holes closest to the coin box and piloted them. From the underside I marked and piloted the other two holes that are closest to the cabinet wall (because the drill won’t fit for a straight hole... the wall is in the way). I used a run of the mill 1.5 mm (1/16” works fine) bit for the pilot drill. It cuts such a tiny hole you don’t really need to worry about blow-out.

Once the pilots were done I countersunk the underside where the T-nuts are pressed in. Totally unnecessary step... but I like the way it looks. For these T-nuts I countersunk using an 18.0 mm (11/16” is also fine) Forstner bit.

I used a 6.0 mm (1/4” is also fine) brad point bit to cut the holes for the T-nuts. Stay away from twist drills, they make a mess, wander and blow out the material.

BTW...the factory Stern kit comes with the bolts and T-nuts needed for mounting.

The rest was just attaching the shaker with the bolts and putting the cover on.

Perfect fit !!!

This is basic stuff ... I mean ... drill 4 holes right? ... but I thought others may like
to see it.
31F296BB-2BEE-4430-A6A7-782F44DB7B31 (resized).jpeg3544C61B-012F-41EC-9604-795E0A7C371B (resized).jpeg3E8314ED-BC96-44DA-9EA0-7C040B8C21BB (resized).jpegD885BF01-E6EA-4B96-9D6D-70BC7D735C3C (resized).jpeg028F4DA7-C4EE-4D72-A19B-AF2327C67A12 (resized).jpeg29E6AD9A-BCC6-487F-8A73-17181791C837 (resized).jpegA5B3D806-9850-484A-B8C4-2C11661FAC84 (resized).jpeg00E12A0C-42DD-48B1-AB3C-58C15DC79DCA (resized).jpeg0A598792-D25B-49ED-8F76-9C97F882690C (resized).jpegD0F4D68B-F376-4B4A-874E-B47774EB613E (resized).jpegD27BA0C5-7226-46A4-9493-3F2DF72604F0 (resized).jpegC86A5CD6-55E8-4442-92FE-810A8B7FE67A (resized).jpeg

#3076 6 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Finally got 20 minutes of my life to myself to mount the shaker ...
I put it as far right and front as possible... so it would be easy to get the cover on and off. The blocking for the prop rod and the leg anchor pretty much determined where it was to be mounted
I marked the two holes closest to the coin box and piloted them. From the underside I marked and piloted the other two holes that are closest to the cabinet wall (because the drill won’t fit for a straight hole... the wall is in the way)
Once the pilots were done I countersunk the underside where the T-nuts are pressed in. Totally unnecessary step... but I like the way it looks.
I used a 6mm brad point bit to cut the holes for the T-nuts. Stay away from twist drills, they make a mess, wander and blow out the material.
BTW...the factory Stern kit comes with the bolts and T-nuts needed for mounting.
The rest was just attaching the shaker with the bolts and putting the cover on.
Perfect fit !!!
This is basic stuff ... I mean ... drill 4 holes right? ... but I thought others may like
to see it.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great work. Was thinking earlier what would be great is possibly making a template drawing that I could include with the instructions. What do you think? Might help future people line them up easier

#3077 6 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Great work. Was thinking earlier what would be great is possibly making a template drawing that I could include with the instructions. What do you think? Might help future people line them up easier

Great idea and I can easily make a template from this for you ... no sweat!

#3078 6 months ago
Quoted from Andyzola87:

You don’t need a windows 98 pc to update to any version of code including 2.10. I made a Tutorial vid on how to update with any modern windows based computer. Hopefully this helps:

Ok so I followed your directions and I got it updated to v 2.1!!! I used my laptop with windows 10 and the star tech adaptor and it worked on the second try. (First try I let my laptop go to the lock screen and the update failed). Thanks again now I can work on getting my shaker installed!!!

#3079 6 months ago

Here is a drill/mounting template for the SAM shaker.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sAZOavUhfE25RudyAQkfhUseIJCxUoCd/view?usp=sharing

You've got about 1/16" of margin on the right side of the template, just cut along the dotted line, but I would not cut off the dotted line, otherwise your shaker may be too close to the wall. Mark your holes and do a quick “dry” fit of the motor before you commit to drilling. I hope this makes installation easy. Let me know if you have any questions.

#3080 6 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Here is a drill/mounting template for the SAM shaker.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_evWok7HFRm9fF2oO7KdA2fCGo_aC76_
You've got about 1/16" of margin on the right side of the template, just cut along the dotted line, but I would not cut off the dotted line, otherwise your shaker may be too close to the wall. Mark your holes and do a quick “dry” fit of the motor before you commit to drilling. I hope this makes installation easy. Let me know if you have any questions.

Perfect! I will add this to the Instructions pdf file download. Many thanks for doing this.

#3081 6 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Perfect! I will add this to the Instructions pdf file download. Many thanks for doing this.

Happy to contribute... even if it's just a piece of paper

I love this game and all the work you've done just takes this great game to another level!

#3082 6 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Here is a drill/mounting template for the SAM shaker.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_evWok7HFRm9fF2oO7KdA2fCGo_aC76_
You've got about 1/16" of margin on the right side of the template, just cut along the dotted line, but I would not cut off the dotted line, otherwise your shaker may be too close to the wall. Mark your holes and do a quick “dry” fit of the motor before you commit to drilling. I hope this makes installation easy. Let me know if you have any questions.

Nice work! You might want to include drill bit sizes and/or recommendations as well.

#3083 6 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Nice work! You might want to include drill bit sizes and/or recommendations as well.

Yup I can add that... I'll just include the stuff I've already posted above on a second sheet.

#3084 6 months ago

Here is a link to my installation method... Completed installation document with template.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lPVtfpUrKKYvSu-5xOllqYk79oe2c5Bm/view?usp=sharing

#3085 6 months ago
Quoted from Giulio:

Hi there, get a Dell 2007 FP (search for serial ending with S, ips model one), it's perfect for the RFM lcd route. Fits exactly.
You can strip the bezel with your fingers, keep the small control settings portion of the bezel and carefully set it with tape on the back of the monitor and you are done. You can an adjust sharpness (lowest setting), brightness and contrast. PM if you need further infos, I fixed quite a few of rfm friends of mine with this lcd monitor. Ciao.

giulio thank you. I'm looking around now... but all of the Dell 2007 FP's I can find say they are TFT, not IPS.

You say serial # to look for to end in an S? I'm not sure how one would do that... the listings don't show serial.

I went ahead and ordered one of the TFT ones for $45 with shipping; I figure this form factor is good to have around anyway (I think this is the same monitor I used one one of my arcade cabinets).

#3086 6 months ago

To be clear, this is the "best" shaker motor for this, right? In other words, requiring no modification (if mounted to the far right), plugs straight into applejuice harness?

https://www.pinballlife.com/shaker-motor-kit-rev-b-for-most-stern-sam-system-games.html

#3087 6 months ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

To be clear, this is the "best" shaker motor for this, right? In other words, requiring no modification (if mounted to the far right), plugs straight into applejuice harness?
https://www.pinballlife.com/shaker-motor-kit-rev-b-for-most-stern-sam-system-games.html

Nothing plugs directly into the harness... you need to either cut off the motor's connector or make a pigtail to add the in-line fuse and mating connector to the harness... those pieces (connector housing, pins and fuse block) are provided in the harness kit. You do not need the PCB that is for the SAM kit... this provides 12VDC regulation for the motor when running off of AC power in the Stern machine. The motor is directly driven by 12VDC of the PB2K driver board.

Long story short, if this kit is compatible with SAM then it should be a 12VDC motor ... and should work... fit wise... dunno.

I bought the recommended Stern SAM kit 502-5027-00 ... the Stern part number for just the motor is 41-5029-04. Links to the installation template for this kit are above.

Quoted from Ricochet:

See this post for a picture of the harness and what is included with it

#3088 6 months ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

To be clear, this is the "best" shaker motor for this, right? In other words, requiring no modification (if mounted to the far right), plugs straight into applejuice harness?
https://www.pinballlife.com/shaker-motor-kit-rev-b-for-most-stern-sam-system-games.html

That's the one I got that seems to have a slightly larger cover then the slightly more expensive "Official" Stern shaker.

Even with the cover shoved all the way into the corner, there is still interference with the foot under the playfield. There may be some variation, but mine doesn't fit. For the $20.00 difference in price, you'll need to use something like the 3D printed end covers that I whipped up.

Here's the one that others have gotten to fit without modification:

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-factory-authorized-shaker-motor-kit-rev-b-for-most-stern-sam-system-games.html

#3089 6 months ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

giulio thank you. I'm looking around now... but all of the Dell 2007 FP's I can find say they are TFT, not IPS.
You say serial # to look for to end in an S? I'm not sure how one would do that... the listings don't show serial.
I went ahead and ordered one of the TFT ones for $45 with shipping; I figure this form factor is good to have around anyway (I think this is the same monitor I used one one of my arcade cabinets).

This one here is a perfect drop in replacement, no need for converter as it will display the signal of the Pin2000 PC directly.
https://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/04/product-support/product/dell-u2410/overview

I did buy a used one for 80USD here in Europe.

#3090 6 months ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

giulio thank you. I'm looking around now... but all of the Dell 2007 FP's I can find say they are TFT, not IPS.
You say serial # to look for to end in an S? I'm not sure how one would do that... the listings don't show serial.
I went ahead and ordered one of the TFT ones for $45 with shipping; I figure this form factor is good to have around anyway (I think this is the same monitor I used one one of my arcade cabinets).

Hi, I asked when I bought it for a pic of the serial, and did choose one ending S and it was IPS. Anyway, this is the perfect form factor (4:3) and dimensions, a perfect drop in. If you need assistance or other infos, PM me, you are welcome. Cheers.

#3091 6 months ago

Made a pigtail to mate the loom to the motor with in-line fuse...

49DCB1A9-E677-47F0-AD04-550538526FF2 (resized).jpegA3309B8B-3136-4821-90D9-57859928F1DD (resized).jpeg
#3092 6 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Made a pigtail to mate the loom to the motor with in-line fuse...[quoted image][quoted image]

Exactly what I wanted to do. Nice work.

#3093 6 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

Exactly what I wanted to do. Nice work.

Thanks, Yeah... I have issues ... I don’t like cutting off connectors. I also changed the knocker plug to a 3 pos to eliminate the possibility of accidentally connecting them wrong.

I have issues.

#3094 6 months ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Thanks, Yeah... I have issues ... I don’t like cutting off connectors. I also changed the knocker plug to a 3 pos to eliminate the possibility of accidentally connecting them wrong.
I have issues.

Well, you could make me one to assuage your guilt.

#3095 6 months ago

I know im impatient , but any news about the new 2.2 version...maybe what you plan Jim, changes etc.

#3096 6 months ago

Again... me and my A.R. self.

I’m putting the knocker in the back box. I put a knocker in my SPIKE system in the main body of the cabinet and I don’t care for the way it sounds (seriously I know). There is something about the crack on the top of the box of the machine.

So this is my attempt to make it more “authentic”. When I repaint and redo the cabinet that naked block of wood will be black. For the strike to be perpendicular, the assembly needs to sit cocked back a bit to be parallel with the angle of the top. Also I’ve not added the diode yet ... this is just fit check. A 2 1/2” x 4” piece of 1/2” plywood suits for spacing for the plunger to clear the cabinet’s panel blocking.
7AFC58CF-8AE1-47EF-9EE5-26CD672147A1 (resized).jpeg

#3097 5 months ago

Upgraded to 2.10 F-I-N-A-L-L-Y !!!

The shaker really compliments the game play !!! There are some subtle shakes and some good zingers !!! There are so many opportunities to fire the shaker ... applejuice could go apeshit with the feature but I like what he’s done so far.

Love the knocker !!! I’m super pleased where I located it too... it’s a small detail but the “crack” from the back of the box just sounds right !

Putting this one down for a bit to finish up some other comments... hopefully by September I can tear into it and get it prettied up !

Thanks again applejuice ... you’ve taken a really fun and unique game to new heights... honestly I think there should be a greater demand for this title... especially now. They did a ton of things right with pb2k... just not at the right time.

88BC1EE6-AFA1-4454-9756-D6F0AB4F5B37 (resized).jpeg

#3098 5 months ago

I’ve a handful of pigtails for plug and play with the stern motor to applejuice’s harness.

No cutting or splicing necessary... and 2A slo. blo. fuse is included.

$15 shipped continental US.

PM if interested

#3099 5 months ago

Loom ordering now included on my website, along with an install instructions download link. See the RFM section on the front page.

https://mypinballs.com

#3100 5 months ago

I am moving and need to move my RFM but I can not remember how to take the monitor off and what needs to be disconnected. Is anyone able to help?

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 44.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
PinBoss Mods
$ 11.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
3,300 (Firm)
Machine - For Sale
Dayton, OH
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 67.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
MicksPinball
There are 3488 posts in this topic. You are on page 62 of 70.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside