Thanks! I've got a couple more little tweaks, then they'll be on Thingiverse. I've also got some translucent red PETG that I think would look pretty cool.

Ohh...sign me up for a set.

Yup... I like it. I may want a set of these

I've got pretty much everything nailed down (still need an email j_m_ ) for the first 10 MRS'......at this time MRS' are $25/unit and domestic shipping is $4.50 whereas shipping to the UK is $15....I presume Australia and Canada will be a different price - I'll work on that next....

I have another 15 units partially completed - just need to finish them off in the next couple weeks....

Hey sonic I've got a couple dead switches so put me on the wait list for your next batch. Thx!

Very much appreciate your work, Sonic! Looking forward to getting the switch. I'll definitely be in for more when others have had theirs shipped.

Sonic : if shipping to France is feasible, I'm in

To All: man down, need help.

My rfm is original with 2.10.
I've set-up a shaker with a 12v motor used for stern shaker. Direct connection plus the fuse(2.5A SB).

When I made the test in coil test menu, the activation of the shaker worked well but the menu was going back one level directly.
I suspected a small bug. I anyway activated the shaker in the settings and launched a game.

And that worked well, shaker went on during the missile launches etc. SO GREAT AND SO SHAKY

but suddenly, I had a "DOOR OPEN, 50V disabled" message. The door was still closed.
I checked the switch and it was not unplugged. I was also no longer able to use the door buttons to go to the menu.
I then restarted the pinball and it seems the pinball had a reset.
I'm now on the country selector menu and I can't move as buttons are still non operational.
So much frustration.
Any guidance ??

applejuice : how can I make a donation, shaker addition is so cool !

Blown fuse.

And your shaker needs a resistor 1ohm/10W for example

Thanks guys.
Out at the moment, will give a try when back.
I wonder which fuse can disable the door button ??

I'm guessing because the +50V is out; the door thinks it's closed; disabling the buttons via software.

My Stern SAM shaker fits fine. There is very little play ... and you should mount it as far right as possible (with little to no space between the side wall and the shaker cover.

FD293F92-A740-4B5E-A01D-1D7A4408DF45 (resized).jpeg

No it doesn’t need a resistor . As I said in my instruction sheet we are running from 12v dc directly not a rectified ac voltage like on stern sam games

I would double check you didn’t dislodge the cabinet switch plug on the driver board when you installed the new loom.

As for donations visit my site https://myPinballs.com the button to donate is next to the download image and link. Any donations are greatly received as it takes hundreds of hours along with testing to create decent updates. Not to mention stumping up the cash for all shaker looms up front.

Speaking of which I have an idea to commission some new graphics for a new feature mode. Set In an abandoned theme park with zombies perhaps then the aliens turn up....

Very cool!!!!!

Can anyone tell me what the heck these things are???

53018B22-511D-4272-A528-2952C1C8E000 (resized).jpeg

Those look like coin entry plates that only allow special tokens to be used.

Yup that was my first thought ... but the shape of the slot didn’t make sense to me... especially for a round token.

Double slotted security token:

https://e-service.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/products-21511600_metal_token-e1529583940251.jpg

Cool!!! I’ve never seen those before!!!

You sir, are the real MVP.

I like also this idea.

You win !
Putting a new fuse helped me to get the pinball running again.
The settings were lost so I put again in free play and shaker enabled.
I managed to play some balls and shaker was working but I got some messages as 'OPEN DOOR to operate buttons' after shaker activation.
I also got few TILT on strong activation
Then finally, fuse blew again.

@applejuice, no diode is needed on shaker ? I'm suspecting some current to go back due to shaker induction by inertia.

Can we check that you plugged the shaker into the 12v connector and not the 50v one. 12v for shaker (orange and yellow), 50v for knocker (brown and blue). See instructions for more detail. I don't see why a 50v fuse would blow if you run a 12v motor. Also i've not seen the need for additional diodes on shaker motors unless you feed an ac voltage instead of a dc one.

The driver board has coil diodes included on every output (even though coils have them to, backup i guess) so my only thought currently is perhaps the coil diode for the shaker drive is leaking and potentially shorting the 50v line when activated.

Finally got 20 minutes of my life to myself to mount the shaker ...

I put it as far right and front as possible... so it would be easy to get the cover on and off. The blocking for the prop rod and the leg anchor pretty much determined where it was to be mounted

I marked the two holes closest to the coin box and piloted them. From the underside I marked and piloted the other two holes that are closest to the cabinet wall (because the drill won’t fit for a straight hole... the wall is in the way). I used a run of the mill 1.5 mm (1/16” works fine) bit for the pilot drill. It cuts such a tiny hole you don’t really need to worry about blow-out.

Once the pilots were done I countersunk the underside where the T-nuts are pressed in. Totally unnecessary step... but I like the way it looks. For these T-nuts I countersunk using an 18.0 mm (11/16” is also fine) Forstner bit.

I used a 6.0 mm (1/4” is also fine) brad point bit to cut the holes for the T-nuts. Stay away from twist drills, they make a mess, wander and blow out the material.

BTW...the factory Stern kit comes with the bolts and T-nuts needed for mounting.

The rest was just attaching the shaker with the bolts and putting the cover on.

Perfect fit !!!

This is basic stuff ... I mean ... drill 4 holes right? ... but I thought others may like
to see it.
31F296BB-2BEE-4430-A6A7-782F44DB7B31 (resized).jpeg3544C61B-012F-41EC-9604-795E0A7C371B (resized).jpeg3E8314ED-BC96-44DA-9EA0-7C040B8C21BB (resized).jpegD885BF01-E6EA-4B96-9D6D-70BC7D735C3C (resized).jpeg028F4DA7-C4EE-4D72-A19B-AF2327C67A12 (resized).jpeg29E6AD9A-BCC6-487F-8A73-17181791C837 (resized).jpegA5B3D806-9850-484A-B8C4-2C11661FAC84 (resized).jpeg00E12A0C-42DD-48B1-AB3C-58C15DC79DCA (resized).jpeg0A598792-D25B-49ED-8F76-9C97F882690C (resized).jpegD0F4D68B-F376-4B4A-874E-B47774EB613E (resized).jpegD27BA0C5-7226-46A4-9493-3F2DF72604F0 (resized).jpegC86A5CD6-55E8-4442-92FE-810A8B7FE67A (resized).jpeg

Great work. Was thinking earlier what would be great is possibly making a template drawing that I could include with the instructions. What do you think? Might help future people line them up easier

Great idea and I can easily make a template from this for you ... no sweat!

Ok so I followed your directions and I got it updated to v 2.1!!! I used my laptop with windows 10 and the star tech adaptor and it worked on the second try. (First try I let my laptop go to the lock screen and the update failed). Thanks again now I can work on getting my shaker installed!!!

Here is a drill/mounting template for the SAM shaker.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sAZOavUhfE25RudyAQkfhUseIJCxUoCd/view?usp=sharing

You've got about 1/16" of margin on the right side of the template, just cut along the dotted line, but I would not cut off the dotted line, otherwise your shaker may be too close to the wall. Mark your holes and do a quick “dry” fit of the motor before you commit to drilling. I hope this makes installation easy. Let me know if you have any questions.

Perfect! I will add this to the Instructions pdf file download. Many thanks for doing this.

Happy to contribute... even if it's just a piece of paper

I love this game and all the work you've done just takes this great game to another level!

Nice work! You might want to include drill bit sizes and/or recommendations as well.

Yup I can add that... I'll just include the stuff I've already posted above on a second sheet.

Here is a link to my installation method... Completed installation document with template.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lPVtfpUrKKYvSu-5xOllqYk79oe2c5Bm/view?usp=sharing

Giulio thank you. I'm looking around now... but all of the Dell 2007 FP's I can find say they are TFT, not IPS.

You say serial # to look for to end in an S? I'm not sure how one would do that... the listings don't show serial.

I went ahead and ordered one of the TFT ones for $45 with shipping; I figure this form factor is good to have around anyway (I think this is the same monitor I used one one of my arcade cabinets).

To be clear, this is the "best" shaker motor for this, right? In other words, requiring no modification (if mounted to the far right), plugs straight into applejuice harness?

https://www.pinballlife.com/shaker-motor-kit-rev-b-for-most-stern-sam-system-games.html

Nothing plugs directly into the harness... you need to either cut off the motor's connector or make a pigtail to add the in-line fuse and mating connector to the harness... those pieces (connector housing, pins and fuse block) are provided in the harness kit. You do not need the PCB that is for the SAM kit... this provides 12VDC regulation for the motor when running off of AC power in the Stern machine. The motor is directly driven by 12VDC of the PB2K driver board.

Long story short, if this kit is compatible with SAM then it should be a 12VDC motor ... and should work... fit wise... dunno.

I bought the recommended Stern SAM kit 502-5027-00 ... the Stern part number for just the motor is 41-5029-04. Links to the installation template for this kit are above.

That's the one I got that seems to have a slightly larger cover then the slightly more expensive "Official" Stern shaker.

Even with the cover shoved all the way into the corner, there is still interference with the foot under the playfield. There may be some variation, but mine doesn't fit. For the $20.00 difference in price, you'll need to use something like the 3D printed end covers that I whipped up.

Here's the one that others have gotten to fit without modification:

https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-factory-authorized-shaker-motor-kit-rev-b-for-most-stern-sam-system-games.html

This one here is a perfect drop in replacement, no need for converter as it will display the signal of the Pin2000 PC directly.
https://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/04/product-support/product/dell-u2410/overview

I did buy a used one for 80USD here in Europe.

Hi, I asked when I bought it for a pic of the serial, and did choose one ending S and it was IPS. Anyway, this is the perfect form factor (4:3) and dimensions, a perfect drop in. If you need assistance or other infos, PM me, you are welcome. Cheers.

Made a pigtail to mate the loom to the motor with in-line fuse...

49DCB1A9-E677-47F0-AD04-550538526FF2 (resized).jpeg

A3309B8B-3136-4821-90D9-57859928F1DD (resized).jpeg

Exactly what I wanted to do. Nice work.

Thanks, Yeah... I have issues ... I don’t like cutting off connectors. I also changed the knocker plug to a 3 pos to eliminate the possibility of accidentally connecting them wrong.

I have issues.

Well, you could make me one to assuage your guilt.

I know im impatient , but any news about the new 2.2 version...maybe what you plan Jim, changes etc.

Again... me and my A.R. self.

I’m putting the knocker in the back box. I put a knocker in my SPIKE system in the main body of the cabinet and I don’t care for the way it sounds (seriously I know). There is something about the crack on the top of the box of the machine.

So this is my attempt to make it more “authentic”. When I repaint and redo the cabinet that naked block of wood will be black. For the strike to be perpendicular, the assembly needs to sit cocked back a bit to be parallel with the angle of the top. Also I’ve not added the diode yet ... this is just fit check. A 2 1/2” x 4” piece of 1/2” plywood suits for spacing for the plunger to clear the cabinet’s panel blocking.
7AFC58CF-8AE1-47EF-9EE5-26CD672147A1 (resized).jpeg

Upgraded to 2.10 F-I-N-A-L-L-Y !!!

The shaker really compliments the game play !!! There are some subtle shakes and some good zingers !!! There are so many opportunities to fire the shaker ... applejuice could go apeshit with the feature but I like what he’s done so far.

Love the knocker !!! I’m super pleased where I located it too... it’s a small detail but the “crack” from the back of the box just sounds right !

Putting this one down for a bit to finish up some other comments... hopefully by September I can tear into it and get it prettied up !

Thanks again applejuice ... you’ve taken a really fun and unique game to new heights... honestly I think there should be a greater demand for this title... especially now. They did a ton of things right with pb2k... just not at the right time.

88BC1EE6-AFA1-4454-9756-D6F0AB4F5B37 (resized).jpeg

I’ve a handful of pigtails for plug and play with the stern motor to applejuice’s harness.

No cutting or splicing necessary... and 2A slo. blo. fuse is included.

$15 shipped continental US.

PM if interested

Loom ordering now included on my website, along with an install instructions download link. See the RFM section on the front page.

https://mypinballs.com

I am moving and need to move my RFM but I can not remember how to take the monitor off and what needs to be disconnected. Is anyone able to help?