The knocker assembly suggested by applejuice does appear to have the diode on it... so this is more evidence you may need the diode.

Ok let me clarify a few things.

1) Knockers should have a coil diode. Pinball 2000 had coil diodes on all coils and diodes on the power driver board. For reliability, so follow the same. Make sure the +50v voltage wire goes to the banded side. Brown on my looms.

2) Shaker motors and knockers should fit perfectly well in the front rhs of the cabinet. There shouldn't be any need to do anything particularly special. The loom was made and tested in various games beforehand and i spent along time perfecting it. I dont understand why the tilt bob is shown on the rhs on 1 game above. I can only assume this is not factory.

See my game installation below.

IMG_4399 (resized).JPGIMG_4400 (resized).JPG

I will most likely update this info into the instruction doc when i get time

I don't have the machine any more but mine definitely had the tilt bob on the LHS of the cab, far as i know that is standard across most B/W machines. It's always "interesting" to see what people do over time to their machines, aka hacks
The first pin i ever bought was BOP and both bolts for the headbox brackets were leg bolts and that's mild in comparison to what others have reported in various club threads

It is off course not a hack or some modification!

During production of the games they mounted the tilt on the right and on the left side!

My machine is a mess so I originally thought the tilt-bob was moved but I've since seen it on the right side on many other RFMs including some HUOs... so I'm sure many have come from the factory like this. Moving it is really not a big deal, totally worth it for the shaker experience!

Well, there must be a pattern here somewhere as the loom has to be different for this move.... Must be a range of serial numbers or games to certain countries originally.

Moving the tilt assembly seems to be the easiest, leaving your loom as-is. The coin door PCB will need to be shifted towards the front as well as the cable clamps. This will free up the space on the right side for the shaker. This is what I intend to do.

I'm meaning the rfm cabinet loom. If you move your tilt bob does the cabinet loom still reach. What is your serial number for your game, and what country does the sticker say inside?

It's possible that export machines had the tilt bob on the left, US machines on the right, or visa versa, whichever the case may be. I'm not sure if my machine was an export originally though unfortunately

Pretty sure the tilt bob wires will still reach (as they are the only part of the factory loom which is routed to the right side... everything else remains the same)... and I believe it takes more wire to put the bob on the right side.
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Couple of days ago I moved tilt bob from rhs to lhs, had no problems at all, cables are long enough and the holes for the tilt mechanism are already in place. I shifted the board a bit to the left to make room for the tilt mechanism, the original lhs screw holes for the board, I now use to screw the rhs of the board.

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I'm about 90% sure my tilt is on the lhs (player's prospective) as well.
In fact; I'm positive now that I think about it. Mine was not "behind" the coil power disable switch but on the same side as the ac box.

Yup I just moved mine... no problem whatsoever!

Tested the shaker yesterday and I really like it.
Thanks for the afford. When you plan to release the 2.2 version?

My favourite 'shake' add ons, the small shake as robo-lincoln plants one on the martian at the mode end, the catapult items as they hit the saucer in paris in peril and the hits to the large martian in martian attack. More detail to add to

Ok, so i think we can safely say, having the tilt bob on the lhs (like pretty much every pinball game ever made!) is the best option and its not too taxing to move it if for some reason your have an rfm with the rhs mounted one. the rhs is the best place for the shaker along with the knocker once you have space.

I'll add the info to the instruction doc when i get a minute.

to me, this doesn't seem like a good place for the coil to strike. my guess is that over time, the repeated strikes to the box will cause the varistor or the thermistor inside of the box to fail

I just joined the RFM club! It's been on my wish list for a while; sold a Stern Star Trek to buy it. Still on 1.2 code, CPU can is crazy loud. Parts on order.

Mine has an LCD in it; model K190NAD:
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/monitors/49-2604-36LED
https://na.suzohapp.com/images/pdf/49-2604-30L_VisionProManual.pdf

Crazy the previous owner didn't mask it off... the marquee light was totally lighting up around the edges, looked like hell. Fixed that with some black blackout cloth.

I notice that the monitor has pretty white blacks... which ruins the 3D effect. I can NOT find a way to adjust brightness/contrast with this monitor.

Anyone run into this with their LCD? Boggles that it's not adjustable (there seem to be many other adjustable settings in the on-screen setting, but not brightness/contract/black level, that I can find.

way more??? According to everything I have read/heard/known, lead free in most cases is at least equivalent to leaded solder in regards to common reliability issues such as drop shock, vibration and thermal cycling, except for some high-rel, high-stress environments where the jury is still out. Does a pinball machine have shock and vibration...sure it does. I just don't think a pinball machine qualifies for the "high-stress" definition that the experts debate.

Yeah probably used the wrong adjective there . I come from industrial test equipment background... we needed to do a ton of safety testing when RoHS took effect. I worked with PCB assembly houses on process changes for our products. It was an issue... but you’re right ... we aren’t talking about dropping a pinball machine 36” onto concrete on all faces

My restoration preview (since I’ve decided to keep this machine indefinitely... I’m dumping a little extra $$$ into it) ... I’m real finicky about colorizing trim... Powder coating can be controversial to many. There are plenty of cringe worthy color choices out there to prove it. I think this will look very nice on this machine. The red ties nicely with the playfield and apron. The coin door is really pretty ... it mainly looks black and only shows the depth of color with direct lighting. I didn’t want the coin door to stick out like a sore thumb (which happens often when people color them). It needed a new finish so I went with subtle ruby flake for the heck of it ... and I’m really liking it.

These colors were chosen by Robertstone0407 and personally I think he has a great eye for picking the right color for the machine.

Lots of cabinet work to be done before I can showcase it.

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Hi there, get a Dell 2007 FP (search for serial ending with S, ips model one), it's perfect for the RFM lcd route. Fits exactly.
You can strip the bezel with your fingers, keep the small control settings portion of the bezel and carefully set it with tape on the back of the monitor and you are done. You can an adjust sharpness (lowest setting), brightness and contrast. PM if you need further infos, I fixed quite a few of rfm friends of mine with this lcd monitor. Ciao.

My crt works fine so I wont replace it as of now. Still , Im interested in seing some pictures (if you have any) of your monitor conversion for future reference if my display breaks down.

MRS Update: I decided to go back to the drawing board to squeeze as much sensitivity as I could from the form-factor before calling this project a success. And to that end, I succeeded....and have 8 completed switches....I've got Reznnate for 3 switches and I'd like to get another 4 switches into folks' hands so they can kick the tires on these before I complete more switches......so shoot me a PM - I've got 4 I can ship - but I don't want them squirreled away, but I want them used in a game or what have you....

Here's a pic of #3 (of 8 )

Matt
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PM sent.

Red fleck looks good. What about other pieces of metal on the coindoor? Chutes, etc.

The entire door is all red fleck... I didn’t want to make it too busy.

I’d like to test 1 of these. Great work

Not sure if it's been implemented and my ears are shot but applejuice what's the possibility that during Martian aerobics which is just a space Invaders clone, to actually have the original space Invaders sound effects when the martians move / speed up as well as the missile shots ?

congrats matt
those look just like the oem reed switches. I replied to pass for now since I was just looking for back-ups and would rather see others truly in need of them and that can provide feedback back to you. I would think that there have to be a few RFM owners in need as well (since that game uses 3 of them

Thanks.....they are the same in 2 dimensions (length/width) but about half the thickness and weight......I got switch #9 done last night - they are tricky bastards to build....just me, a solder iron, a magnifying glass and a table top "helping-hands" rig....and a shit-load of patience.....but man am I happy when I get one done.....

applejuice - I love your 2.1 code! It's so, so much more complete and fun game than how I got it last week (with 1.2 code), thank you!

I've ordered your loom and plan to install a knocker and shaker.

I'm very intrigued by this 6-ball option. Do you have any further details on how to perform this upgrade? I guess we need to obtain a new opto board, at a minimum?

MRS Update: I've got 11 completed....1 I'm going to keep...the other 10 are going to: Reznnate Ricochet applejuice rygar j_m_ robotron911 .......I'm going to build another 10 shortly.....I've got to figure out shipping (shouldn't be more than $6 in the US) and picked up some small boxes to ship with (realized quickly I had no medium by which to ship - I didn't want to do bubble envelopes - so I scored some 3x3x1 boxes.....)

Got my shaker in!

I used the 3rd party shaker kit from Pinball Life. Everything went well, including relocating the tilt mech from the right side of the cab to the left, but when I went to drop the playfield, I found that the foot on the right hand ski was resting on top of the shaker cover. I just cut a small hole in the cover, which seemed like the most reasonable solution. Given the available area and the size of the cover, I'm not sure if this would be avoidable with this particular kit.

I'm more than happy to be wrong.

The shaker really adds a LOT to this game, thanks so much @applejuice!
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Thanks for the comment, it is appreciated.

The 6 ball trough is still work in progress right now, as i'm working out the best way to integrate it. There are a few hardware challenges to overcome

I'm encountering the same issue and this is an interesting solution. Would you share a picture showing it with the play field up?

I think I would just take the legs off (if possible) ... if that’s enough to make this fit without having to cut it.

Sure.

This kit uses a different concept for covering the weights than the one that applejuice used. That one just covers the weights, this one covers the whole assembly. I assume that the idea is to keep errant wires, etc. out of the swing of the weights rather than act as a dust cover, so I'm not worried about cutting into the middle part. Also, I'm pretty sure that there's nowhere in the corner you could mount this one without interference. Obviously I didn't think about this when I placed the motor, and I'm really glad that the foot fell in a location where it was only conflicting with the cover, and not the frame of the motor, or even worse, the path of one of the weights!

In time, if the cut bugs me, I'll probably end up designing a 3D printable set of end covers.

Also, on a side note, there's no path in the cover for the wires to route through, so there will be some cutting involved regardless. Actually, there is a hole on the top of the cover that I assumed was to catch the mounting screw for the fuse holder. Since this mod involves cutting the connector off, I suppose you could thread the wires through that hole, but then you'd need to mount the fuse somewhere else.

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(old post; still getting through this whole thread)

Are LCDs and video amplifiers mutually exclusive? I'd like to brighten my display and have no control over brightness on the LCD that's installed in mine.

Why didn't you just mount the shaker to the far rhs side, as your pic shows a gap of about an inch next to the cab side? Others have mounted the stock stern shaker ok without cutting into the case.

I have a similar/same kit. I used an official Stern kit I had leftover from another project. Unfortunately, I mounted mine further back and it's hitting on the end by the weight. It will have to be relocated when I have some time. I'm honestly tempted to move is where the coin box would go, but that might hurt me on resale.

I ran into the same issue as Zennmaster and I mounted mine further back. Only difference is I'm going to put the fuse on the plywood cross member.

It's kind of hard to see in the pic, but it's definitely way less than an inch at the top, and the cover flares a bit, so it's even tighter at the bottom, probably a quarter inch. Initially, I placed it assuming that I wasn't going to move the wire tidy on the inside cab wall, which I ended up doing anyway. Based on where the foot hits the cover, even if it were touching the inside wall of the cab, it would still interfere. It turns out that the kit I am using isn't manufactured by Stern, but is a 3rd party replacement. I suspect the "official" Stern kit's cover might be a bit smaller. In any case, the way the cover attaches to the frame of the motor, I'm confident that the weights are protected, and I'm not terribly worried about the actual motor's case.

Also, thanks again for all your work, it's like a whole new game!

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Excuse my ignorance about these but where are these switches used in RFM? I've read about the last 10 pages of posts and came across your project but I'm unfamiliar what these do.

Thx
Tom

Martin Weist (from pinball2000.de) mounted his ok see below. (He decided to use the stern driver board, though as the instructions mention, you don't need to if you install the fuse)

http://www.pinball2000.de/local_images/shake_7.jpg

shake_7 (resized).jpg

Maybe as far right as possible and as far front as possible will give just enough room. As i mentioned, these were tested in other peoples game first, but maybe there is some variation with cases or makes etc. You could also adjust the bottom of the case to allow it to move further right.

At the end of the day its up to the individual how they mount it. The game supports them fine now with v2.1

Geocab did you ever figure this out?

On mine, the skill shot launches STDM, unless I hit it with the left flipper.

Last night I unscrewed that guide, and tried to pull it as far left as I could (although there wasn't really any give) when I screwed it back down. I also checked that the playfield was level (it needed a little tweaking, but less than a degree). Still the same; right down the middle.

I don't want to make it intentionally NOT level, so I'm a bit stumped.

They were used in various WMS pins....RFM being one of them....there are 3 in RFM....all located in the ball lock lane....the MRS went unobtainum some handful of years ago...

I've got 8 accounted for to @wiggy07, @applejuice, @reznnate, Ricochet & j_m_ this means I've got 2 left.....I haven't heard back from rygar or robotron911 - but it's first come first serve - so just shoot me a PM with your email and mailing address....and I'll send payment info...

I've got everything ready to go....

Matt

I'm really not sure why this seems to have become such a big issue among people.

The 3rd-party Stern-compatible shaker that I got from Pinaball Life came with an ugly, bulky, flimsy and not terribly well-designed or manufactured cover, which gets in the way of a playfield foot. It's not integral to the design of the shaker, and only attaches to the top of the assembly after it's been installed, and prevents access to anything below it, including the mounting bolts. It seemed to me that it was a better idea to cut a small hole in a cheap plastic part that no one wold ever see rather than drill more holes in the bottom of my cabinet.

I don't see why this is a big deal. Nonetheless, it did start to bug me, so I spent 15 minutes with OpenSCAD and threw a set of end covers onto the Prusa using PETG.

The results are much more compact, much stiffer and stronger, look better and solve the issue.

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Excellent work!