(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"


By kjm8888

5 years ago



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There are 3032 posts in this topic. You are on page 61 of 61.
#3001 8 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

It looks as if the knocker and shaker are on Drive Bank C (DRV 18 and DRV 19)... those do not have diodes on them.

The knocker assembly suggested by applejuice does appear to have the diode on it... so this is more evidence you may need the diode.

#3002 7 days ago

Ok let me clarify a few things.

1) Knockers should have a coil diode. Pinball 2000 had coil diodes on all coils and diodes on the power driver board. For reliability, so follow the same. Make sure the +50v voltage wire goes to the banded side. Brown on my looms.

2) Shaker motors and knockers should fit perfectly well in the front rhs of the cabinet. There shouldn't be any need to do anything particularly special. The loom was made and tested in various games beforehand and i spent along time perfecting it. I dont understand why the tilt bob is shown on the rhs on 1 game above. I can only assume this is not factory.

See my game installation below.

IMG_4399 (resized).JPGIMG_4400 (resized).JPG

I will most likely update this info into the instruction doc when i get time

#3003 7 days ago

I don't have the machine any more but mine definitely had the tilt bob on the LHS of the cab, far as i know that is standard across most B/W machines. It's always "interesting" to see what people do over time to their machines, aka hacks
The first pin i ever bought was BOP and both bolts for the headbox brackets were leg bolts and that's mild in comparison to what others have reported in various club threads

#3004 7 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Ok let me clarify a few things.
1) Knockers should have a coil diode. Pinball 2000 had coil diodes on all coils and diodes on the power driver board. For reliability, so follow the same. Make sure the +50v voltage wire goes to the banded side. Brown on my looms.
2) Shaker motors and knockers should fit perfectly well in the front rhs of the cabinet. There shouldn't be any need to do anything particularly special. The loom was made and tested in various games beforehand and i spent along time perfecting it. I dont understand why the tilt bob is shown on the rhs on 1 game above. I can only assume this is not factory.
See my game installation below.
[quoted image][quoted image]
I will most likely update this info into the instruction doc when i get time

just a comment: ...my RFM has the tilt bob on the RHS as well and looks pretty much factory....maybe there were variations during production...

#3005 7 days ago

It is off course not a hack or some modification!

During production of the games they mounted the tilt on the right and on the left side!

#3006 7 days ago

My machine is a mess so I originally thought the tilt-bob was moved but I've since seen it on the right side on many other RFMs including some HUOs... so I'm sure many have come from the factory like this. Moving it is really not a big deal, totally worth it for the shaker experience!

#3007 7 days ago
Quoted from Ahoernchen:

It is off course not a hack or some modification!
During production of the games they mounted the tilt on the right and on the left side!

Well, there must be a pattern here somewhere as the loom has to be different for this move.... Must be a range of serial numbers or games to certain countries originally.

#3008 7 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Well, there must be a pattern here somewhere as the loom has to be different for this move.... Must be a range of serial numbers or games to certain countries originally.

Moving the tilt assembly seems to be the easiest, leaving your loom as-is. The coin door PCB will need to be shifted towards the front as well as the cable clamps. This will free up the space on the right side for the shaker. This is what I intend to do.

#3009 7 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Moving the tilt assembly seems to be the easiest, leaving your loom as-is. The coin door PCB will need to be shifted towards the front as well as the cable clamps. This will free up the space on the right side for the shaker. This is what I intend to do.

I'm meaning the rfm cabinet loom. If you move your tilt bob does the cabinet loom still reach. What is your serial number for your game, and what country does the sticker say inside?

#3010 7 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

I'm meaning the rfm cabinet loom. If you move your tilt bob does the cabinet loom still reach. What is your serial number for your game, and what country does the sticker say inside?

It's possible that export machines had the tilt bob on the left, US machines on the right, or visa versa, whichever the case may be. I'm not sure if my machine was an export originally though unfortunately

#3011 7 days ago
Quoted from applejuice:

I'm meaning the rfm cabinet loom. If you move your tilt bob does the cabinet loom still reach. What is your serial number for your game, and what country does the sticker say inside?

Pretty sure the tilt bob wires will still reach (as they are the only part of the factory loom which is routed to the right side... everything else remains the same)... and I believe it takes more wire to put the bob on the right side.
EBF70B35-D640-4444-A3EE-B71CACAC50D1 (resized).jpeg

#3012 7 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Pretty sure the tilt bob wires will still reach (as they are the only part of the factory loom which is routed to the right side... everything else remains the same)... and I believe it takes more wire to put the bob on the right side.
[quoted image]

Couple of days ago I moved tilt bob from rhs to lhs, had no problems at all, cables are long enough and the holes for the tilt mechanism are already in place. I shifted the board a bit to the left to make room for the tilt mechanism, the original lhs screw holes for the board, I now use to screw the rhs of the board.

IMG_20190706_140858_1 (resized).jpg
#3013 7 days ago

I'm about 90% sure my tilt is on the lhs (player's prospective) as well.
In fact; I'm positive now that I think about it. Mine was not "behind" the coil power disable switch but on the same side as the ac box.

#3014 7 days ago
Quoted from CommissarisRex:

Couple of days ago I moved tilt bob from rhs to lhs, had no problems at all, cables are long enough and the holes for the tilt mechanism are already in place. I shifted the board a bit to the left to make room for the tilt mechanism, the original lhs screw holes for the board, I now use to screw the rhs of the board.[quoted image]

Yup I just moved mine... no problem whatsoever!

#3015 7 days ago

Tested the shaker yesterday and I really like it.
Thanks for the afford. When you plan to release the 2.2 version?

#3016 6 days ago
Quoted from retroworld2k:

Tested the shaker yesterday and I really like it.
Thanks for the afford. When you plan to release the 2.2 version?

My favourite 'shake' add ons, the small shake as robo-lincoln plants one on the martian at the mode end, the catapult items as they hit the saucer in paris in peril and the hits to the large martian in martian attack. More detail to add to

#3017 6 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Yup I just moved mine... no problem whatsoever!

Ok, so i think we can safely say, having the tilt bob on the lhs (like pretty much every pinball game ever made!) is the best option and its not too taxing to move it if for some reason your have an rfm with the rhs mounted one. the rhs is the best place for the shaker along with the knocker once you have space.

I'll add the info to the instruction doc when i get a minute.

#3018 6 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Installed my knocker... Repurposed a bally knocker from water damaged bally Star trek:[quoted image]

to me, this doesn't seem like a good place for the coil to strike. my guess is that over time, the repeated strikes to the box will cause the varistor or the thermistor inside of the box to fail

#3019 4 days ago

I just joined the RFM club! It's been on my wish list for a while; sold a Stern Star Trek to buy it. Still on 1.2 code, CPU can is crazy loud. Parts on order.

Mine has an LCD in it; model K190NAD:
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/monitors/49-2604-36LED
https://na.suzohapp.com/images/pdf/49-2604-30L_VisionProManual.pdf

Crazy the previous owner didn't mask it off... the marquee light was totally lighting up around the edges, looked like hell. Fixed that with some black blackout cloth.

I notice that the monitor has pretty white blacks... which ruins the 3D effect. I can NOT find a way to adjust brightness/contrast with this monitor.

Anyone run into this with their LCD? Boggles that it's not adjustable (there seem to be many other adjustable settings in the on-screen setting, but not brightness/contract/black level, that I can find.

#3020 4 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

My point is that modern electronics use a lead free solder processes... which is way more susceptible to break with shock and vibe.

way more??? According to everything I have read/heard/known, lead free in most cases is at least equivalent to leaded solder in regards to common reliability issues such as drop shock, vibration and thermal cycling, except for some high-rel, high-stress environments where the jury is still out. Does a pinball machine have shock and vibration...sure it does. I just don't think a pinball machine qualifies for the "high-stress" definition that the experts debate.

#3021 4 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

way more??? According to everything I have read/heard/known, lead free in most cases is at least equivalent to leaded solder in regards to common reliability issues such as drop shock, vibration and thermal cycling, except for some high-rel, high-stress environments where the jury is still out. Does a pinball machine have shock and vibration...sure it does. I just don't think a pinball machine qualifies for the "high-stress" definition that the experts debate.

Yeah probably used the wrong adjective there . I come from industrial test equipment background... we needed to do a ton of safety testing when RoHS took effect. I worked with PCB assembly houses on process changes for our products. It was an issue... but you’re right ... we aren’t talking about dropping a pinball machine 36” onto concrete on all faces

#3022 4 days ago

My restoration preview (since I’ve decided to keep this machine indefinitely... I’m dumping a little extra $$$ into it) ... I’m real finicky about colorizing trim... Powder coating can be controversial to many. There are plenty of cringe worthy color choices out there to prove it. I think this will look very nice on this machine. The red ties nicely with the playfield and apron. The coin door is really pretty ... it mainly looks black and only shows the depth of color with direct lighting. I didn’t want the coin door to stick out like a sore thumb (which happens often when people color them). It needed a new finish so I went with subtle ruby flake for the heck of it ... and I’m really liking it.

These colors were chosen by robertstone0407 and personally I think he has a great eye for picking the right color for the machine.

Lots of cabinet work to be done before I can showcase it.

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#3023 3 days ago
Quoted from johnstewart:

I just joined the RFM club! It's been on my wish list for a while; sold a Stern Star Trek to buy it. Still on 1.2 code, CPU can is crazy loud. Parts on order.
Mine has an LCD in it; model K190NAD:
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/monitors/49-2604-36LED
https://na.suzohapp.com/images/pdf/49-2604-30L_VisionProManual.pdf
Crazy the previous owner didn't mask it off... the marquee light was totally lighting up around the edges, looked like hell. Fixed that with some black blackout cloth.
I notice that the monitor has pretty white blacks... which ruins the 3D effect. I can NOT find a way to adjust brightness/contrast with this monitor.
Anyone run into this with their LCD? Boggles that it's not adjustable (there seem to be many other adjustable settings in the on-screen setting, but not brightness/contract/black level, that I can find.

Hi there, get a Dell 2007 FP (search for serial ending with S, ips model one), it's perfect for the RFM lcd route. Fits exactly.
You can strip the bezel with your fingers, keep the small control settings portion of the bezel and carefully set it with tape on the back of the monitor and you are done. You can an adjust sharpness (lowest setting), brightness and contrast. PM if you need further infos, I fixed quite a few of rfm friends of mine with this lcd monitor. Ciao.

#3024 3 days ago
Quoted from Giulio:

Hi there, get a Dell 2007 FP (search for serial ending with S, ips model one), it's perfect for the RFM lcd route. Fits exakt ...

My crt works fine so I wont replace it as of now. Still , Im interested in seing some pictures (if you have any) of your monitor conversion for future reference if my display breaks down.

#3025 2 days ago

MRS Update: I decided to go back to the drawing board to squeeze as much sensitivity as I could from the form-factor before calling this project a success. And to that end, I succeeded....and have 8 completed switches....I've got reznnate for 3 switches and I'd like to get another 4 switches into folks' hands so they can kick the tires on these before I complete more switches......so shoot me a PM - I've got 4 I can ship - but I don't want them squirreled away, but I want them used in a game or what have you....

Here's a pic of #3 (of 8 )

Matt
20190713_102858 (resized).jpg

#3026 2 days ago
Quoted from Sonic:

MRS Update: I decided to go back to the drawing board to squeeze as much sensitivity as I could from the form-factor before calling this project a success. And to that end, I succeeded....and have 8 completed switches....I've got reznnate for 3 switches and I'd like to get another 4 switches into folks' hands so they can kick the tires on these before I complete more switches......so shoot me a PM - I've got 4 I can ship - but I don't want them squirreled away, but I want them used in a game or what have you....
Here's a pic of #3 (of 8 )
Matt
[quoted image]

PM sent.

#3027 2 days ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

My restoration preview (since I’ve decided to keep this machine indefinitely... I’m dumping a little extra $$$ into it) ...
[quoted image][quoted image]

Red fleck looks good. What about other pieces of metal on the coindoor? Chutes, etc.

#3028 2 days ago
Quoted from prefontaine79:

Red fleck looks good. What about other pieces of metal on the coindoor? Chutes, etc.

The entire door is all red fleck... I didn’t want to make it too busy.

#3029 1 day ago
Quoted from Sonic:

MRS Update: I decided to go back to the drawing board to squeeze as much sensitivity as I could from the form-factor before calling this project a success. And to that end, I succeeded....and have 8 completed switches....I've got reznnate for 3 switches and I'd like to get another 4 switches into folks' hands so they can kick the tires on these before I complete more switches......so shoot me a PM - I've got 4 I can ship - but I don't want them squirreled away, but I want them used in a game or what have you....
Here's a pic of #3 (of 8 )
Matt
[quoted image]

I’d like to test 1 of these. Great work

#3030 1 day ago

Not sure if it's been implemented and my ears are shot but applejuice what's the possibility that during Martian aerobics which is just a space Invaders clone, to actually have the original space Invaders sound effects when the martians move / speed up as well as the missile shots ?

#3031 19 hours ago
Quoted from Sonic:

MRS Update: I decided to go back to the drawing board to squeeze as much sensitivity as I could from the form-factor before calling this project a success. And to that end, I succeeded....and have 8 completed switches....I've got reznnate for 3 switches and I'd like to get another 4 switches into folks' hands so they can kick the tires on these before I complete more switches......so shoot me a PM - I've got 4 I can ship - but I don't want them squirreled away, but I want them used in a game or what have you....
Here's a pic of #3 (of 8 )
Matt
[quoted image]

congrats matt
those look just like the oem reed switches. I replied to pass for now since I was just looking for back-ups and would rather see others truly in need of them and that can provide feedback back to you. I would think that there have to be a few RFM owners in need as well (since that game uses 3 of them

#3032 16 hours ago
Quoted from j_m_:

congrats matt
those look just like the oem reed switches. I replied to pass for now since I was just looking for back-ups and would rather see others truly in need of them and that can provide feedback back to you. I would think that there have to be a few RFM owners in need as well (since that game uses 3 of them

Thanks.....they are the same in 2 dimensions (length/width) but about half the thickness and weight......I got switch #9 done last night - they are tricky bastards to build....just me, a solder iron, a magnifying glass and a table top "helping-hands" rig....and a shit-load of patience.....but man am I happy when I get one done.....

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