(Topic ID: 89874)

RFM: "Hillary, come here! You gotta see this!"

By kjm8888

9 years ago


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  • 6,641 posts
  • 481 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 31 hours ago by BlackBelt
  • Topic is favorited by 219 Pinsiders

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13 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 6,641 posts in this topic. You are on page 55 of 133.
#2701 4 years ago

Hi all. Would someone mind sending me a photo of the 3 eddy sensors under the playfield please? I'm having some intermittent missed detections and I'm wondering if the actual sensors are installed correctly. Could possibly be my cliffy impacting as well I guess. It seems to register if I shoot with the left flipper most of the time but particularly when I backhand it using the right flipper it sometimes doesn't detect. Any other ideas to check would be great also. Thanks in advance

#2702 4 years ago
Quoted from mjfisher:

Hi all. Would someone mind sending me a photo of the 3 eddy sensors under the playfield please? I'm having some intermittent missed detections and I'm wondering if the actual sensors are installed correctly. Could possibly be my cliffy impacting as well I guess. It seems to register if I shoot with the left flipper most of the time but particularly when I backhand it using the right flipper it sometimes doesn't detect. Any other ideas to check would be great also. Thanks in advance

Eddy sensors? Do you mean the magnetic reed switches These go bad all the time! Wish there was a new supply of them but they are unobtanium

#2703 4 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Eddy sensors? Do you mean the magnetic reed switches These go bad all the time! Wish there was a new supply of them but they are unobtanium

Has anyone tried to retrofit the Stern part 180-5145-00 ? I'm not sure if it fits length wise but the ears on it may be able to be trimmed off.

#2704 4 years ago

Try this first, as it is the easiest possible repair:

Quoted from jodini:

So I figured out that the two reed switches are side by side (for the most part) work better if you turn one around in the mount so the magnets are not as close to each other. Now the shots are working about 99% of the time and work on that lane.
Problem solved!

If that doesn't work and you cannot locate a replacement - there is a more elaborate DIY fix:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-repair-20-10293-reed-switch

#2705 4 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Try this first, as it is the easiest possible repair:

If that doesn't work and you cannot locate a replacement - there is a more elaborate DIY fix:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-repair-20-10293-reed-switch

Not sure any reed switch is that easily available anymore and the williams ones have very specific mounting points. On little plastics lugs under the playfield. Somebody really needs to remake this parts, as its used in games before pin2k as well.

The diy fix looks horrendous and a right pita. I managed to get a few used spares but new would be so much better.

#2706 4 years ago

Question: When sliding your playfield in and out... is it like... horrible? I mean mine is definitely metal on metal rough, sounds and feels horrible. My playfield slide feet don't look really worn.... Should the rails be lubricated? I've zero experience with pinball 2000.

#2707 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Question: When sliding your playfield in and out... is it like... horrible? I mean mine is definitely metal on metal rough, sounds and feels horrible. My playfield slide feet don't look really worn.... Should the rails be lubricated? I've zero experience with pinball 2000.

Sounds weird. I don't really notice a problem. I wouldn't lubricate them, though. It's one place that you might find yourself grabbing, etc... and you don't really want to get goop on your hands and in the game.

#2708 4 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Sounds weird. I don't really notice a problem. I wouldn't lubricate them, though. It's one place that you might find yourself grabbing, etc... and you don't really want to get goop on your hands and in the game.

Yeah... lubrication in a pinball machine just doesn't make a whole bunch of sense to me. Maybe its just worn flat on the slide feet and I've not looked at it well enough.

#2709 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Question: When sliding your playfield in and out... is it like... horrible? I mean mine is definitely metal on metal rough, sounds and feels horrible. My playfield slide feet don't look really worn.... Should the rails be lubricated? I've zero experience with pinball 2000.

My SWEP does this. It's annoying but I figured it was part of the deal.

#2710 4 years ago
Quoted from cabuford:

My SWEP does this. It's annoying but I figured it was part of the deal.

I think I'm just going to clean the rails... they have a bit of carbon steel dust from sliding the playfield in and out.

#2711 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

I think I'm just going to clean the rails... they have a bit of carbon steel dust from sliding the playfield in and out.

Mine was also making the screech when pulling the playfield out. Lightly cleaned the rails with steel wool, vacuumed, and then wiped on a light coat of silicone lubricant with a rag. Much quieter.
Also found one of the slide attachments loose where it is screwed to the playfield. May have been causing the slide to not sit flush to the cabinet rail.

#2712 4 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Not sure any reed switch is that easily available anymore and the williams ones have very specific mounting points. On little plastics lugs under the playfield. Somebody really needs to remake this parts, as its used in games before pin2k as well.
The diy fix looks horrendous and a right pita. I managed to get a few used spares but new would be so much better.

To be exact

Creature from the Black Lagoon
Cirqus Voltaire
Cactus Canyon
NBA Fastbreak
No Good Gofers
Revenge From Mars
Safe Cracker
Star Wars Episode 1

PS: Please check your mails.

#2713 4 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Eddy sensors? Do you mean the magnetic reed switches These go bad all the time! Wish there was a new supply of them but they are unobtanium

Reed switches - that's what they are. No wonder I couldn't find any details on RFM eddys Thanks a lot for that - btw I've just installed your new RFM update - it's fantastic.

#2714 4 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Try this first, as it is the easiest possible repair:

If that doesn't work and you cannot locate a replacement - there is a more elaborate DIY fix:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-repair-20-10293-reed-switch

Thanks for that. I might try switching them around first and see how that goes. I've favourited the switch repair post but hoping I don't have to use it.

#2715 4 years ago
Quoted from dashv:

Does the 2.1 software fix the lamp test for LED conversions?

Something to look forward to in upcoming releases if you use LED lamps/use pinbox/nucore

This is how my game normally reports lamp issues wrongly (using pinbox)

IMG_3903 (resized).JPGIMG_3903 (resized).JPG

New System Adjustment enabled

IMG_3891 (resized).JPGIMG_3891 (resized).JPG

And now, no more erroneous errors

IMG_3897 (resized).JPGIMG_3897 (resized).JPGIMG_3900 (resized).JPGIMG_3900 (resized).JPG

#2716 4 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

This is how my game normally reports lamp issues wrongly (using pinbox)

Interesting. I am using Pinbox and mine did not look like that, but I do get the "martian eyes" lamp errors (I went around in circles trying to find these on the playfield, too )

#2717 4 years ago

Very cool applejuice! Any updates with the shaker / knocker loom production?

#2718 4 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Something to look forward to in upcoming releases if you use LED lamps/use pinbox/nucore
This is how my game normally reports lamp issues wrongly (using pinbox)
[quoted image]
New System Adjustment enabled
[quoted image]
And now, no more erroneous errors
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quick question... do I need Nucore/Pinbox to run your releases ? There is an updater that runs as a command line exe to upgrade the stock system through the serial port. I was hoping to be able to use it as your ROM structure is standard.

#2719 4 years ago

I posted in the VFW show thread, but I'll post it here too
I've got an extra NOS sheet of pinball 2000 glass (still in the bally/williams shipping box) that I'm looking to sell. price is $200
I will be at the show this friday and saturday, but will only bring the glass if I have a buyer. pm me for details

#2720 4 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Interesting. I am using Pinbox and mine did not look like that, but I do get the "martian eyes" lamp errors (I went around in circles trying to find these on the playfield, too )

I think its pretty variable on pinbox/nucore. I use normal lamps but this was just for the sake of a test for the led guys.

And i guess you do know the martian eye lamps were new lamps positions added in v2.10 for future updates and for people who upgrade the rubber martians

#2721 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

Quick question... do I need Nucore/Pinbox to run your releases ? There is an updater that runs as a command line exe to upgrade the stock system through the serial port. I was hoping to be able to use it as your ROM structure is standard.

Been mentioned a load of times on here. It works with with both original and pinbox/nucore

#2722 4 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Been mentioned a load of times on here. It works with with both original and pinbox/nucore

Thank you and sorry for not using the search button

#2723 4 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

I think its pretty variable on pinbox/nucore. I use normal lamps but this was just for the sake of a test for the led guys.
And i guess you do know the martian eye lamps were new lamps positions added in v2.10 for future updates and for people who upgrade the rubber martians

Yep, found that out pretty quickly.

#2724 4 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

And i guess you do know the martian eye lamps were new lamps positions added in v2.10 for future updates and for people who upgrade the rubber martians

Upgraded the little buggers and I can't wait.

#2725 4 years ago

The lamp test feature is an opamp design on the hardware of the board on the bottom of the cabinet.
I'd be surprised if applejuice could do anything more than disable it it in software.
Another option might be to duplicate the lamptest grid and allow the owner to disable lamp test for specific lamps that have LEDs. IE for those that don't have 100% LED conversions.

#2726 4 years ago
Quoted from Ricochet:

they really did innovate a ton with pinball 2000... yet somehow... they arrived at...
PVC pipe

What's wrong with PVC? Cheap; easy to source. Easy to replace.

#2727 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

What's wrong with PVC? Cheap; easy to source. Easy to replace.

Nothing at all it just cracks a grin... because you know someone was like "I've an idea..." and they went with it... its great actually... but still funny.

#2728 4 years ago

I didn't see it mentioned - sorry if I missed it....but if you are using an original P2K computer (haven't gone to Pinbox or Nucore) - which I understand can run Jim's 2.X software - what is the method... or is it that a PUB card is the only manner to upgrade an original P2K computer?

#2729 4 years ago
Quoted from Sonic:

I didn't see it mentioned - sorry if I missed it....but if you are using an original P2K computer (haven't gone to Pinbox or Nucore) - which I understand can run Jim's 2.X software - what is the method... or is it that a PUB card is the only manner to upgrade an original P2K computer?

Here’s how I did it with a win10 64 bit machine with serial port, serial cable, and null modem:

Make a new folder: c:/p2k
Download fupdate from https://brianpeek.com/downloads/projects/fupdate.zip and extract to c:/p2k
Download v2.10 software update from mypinballs.com and extract it to c:/p2k
Power up RFM - just let it boot up normally - don’t use coin door buttons - just normal boot up, open coin door, connect null modem to port at coindoor, connect serial cable to null modem, and other end of serial cable to computer.
Run command prompt as administrator
Type: cd c:/p2k
Type: fupdate -fpin2000_50070_0210_ COM1
RFM should start updating!
Sit back and watch the progress bar till complete!

#2730 4 years ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

Here’s how I did it with a win10 64 bit machine with serial port, serial cable, and null modem:

For clarity.... your definition of a null modem is likely a small 'dongle' to put inline at the end of a standard DB9 serial cable - however, I have a null modem cable - which should (since it is female on both ends) go right from the RFM to a PC serial port.....is this correct?

#2731 4 years ago
Quoted from Sonic:

For clarity.... your definition of a null modem is likely a small 'dongle' to put inline at the end of a standard DB9 serial cable - however, I have a null modem cable - which should (since it is female on both ends) go right from the RFM to a PC serial port.....is this correct?

A null modem cable will work. Most RFMs still have the connector just inside the coindoor to make it a little easier.

#2732 4 years ago

Update on the shaker looms

I have a manufacturer on board now and am in the process of ordering 100 units. Yes, 100 looms people

I hope as many people as possible support this project and those who already have done, continue to do so.

Also, on the lamp test front with LED usage. If anyone wants to pm me for an ee tech discussion on the operation of the lamp RC circuit charge and decay test timing and has ideas on how we could alter this for LED use then i'm all ears. I have the timings for regular filament lamps.

#2733 4 years ago
Quoted from mountaingamer:

Here’s how I did it with a win10 64 bit machine with serial port, serial cable, and null modem:
Make a new folder: c:/p2k
Download fupdate from https://brianpeek.com/downloads/projects/fupdate.zip and extract to c:/p2k
Download v2.10 software update from mypinballs.com and extract it to c:/p2k
Power up RFM - just let it boot up normally - don’t use coin door buttons - just normal boot up, open coin door, connect null modem to port at coindoor, connect serial cable to null modem, and other end of serial cable to computer.
Run command prompt as administrator
Type: cd c:/p2k
Type: fupdate -fpin2000_50070_0210_ COM1
RFM should start updating!
Sit back and watch the progress bar till complete!

Worked like an f'n champ!!! Thanks so much......and thanks to Jim for an amazing update (v2.1).....for Jim's info the RAM was 32MB and it is an original P2K computer....

#2734 4 years ago
Quoted from applejuice:

Also, on the lamp test front with LED usage. If anyone wants to pm me for an ee tech discussion on the operation of the lamp RC circuit charge and decay test timing

applejuice Why take it to PM?
I think it should be a group conversations. Why not start a new thread in the appropriate forum here on Pinside?
I'd participate especially if you can post the current timings as you understand them.
Hell; I might even be convinced to pull out my oscilloscope.

#2735 4 years ago

Would anyone share a copy of the 2.1 ? I had planned to update and mypinballs is down
Any info on the wiring for shaker? I did not see anything. Shall I consider It will not be explained, in order to have user purchase looms to support the development ?

#2736 4 years ago
Quoted from BENETNATH:

Would anyone share a copy of the 2.1 ? I had planned to update and mypinballs is down
Any info on the wiring for shaker? I did not see anything. Shall I consider It will not be explained, in order to have user purchase looms to support the development ?

My site is not down? Check your connection

#2737 4 years ago

It's back now.
Was down when I posted this, and my connection was OK, as I was able to post

#2738 4 years ago

2.10 updated ! Will test it soon.
Thanks again applejuice for your dedication in pinball world ^^

#2739 4 years ago

Next time someone has their pin open in the back...

If possible... I’d like a couple of pics of the AC wiring for the computer, monitor and light. (Looking for the termination connectors and where it goes back to the transformer)

My entire box was hacked ... I want to get it cleaned up and as close to factory as possible.

On mine everything was cut. All the AC power in the box goes to the main cabinet with a splitter and is plugged into the AC outlet. This isn’t right.

Thanks!!!

#2740 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

applejuice Why take it to PM?
I think it should be a group conversations. Why not start a new thread in the appropriate forum here on Pinside?
I'd participate especially if you can post the current timings as you understand them.
Hell; I might even be convinced to pull out my oscilloscope.

If you disagree with his methods, then do it your way. But it seems a bit disingenuous to question how/why the OP is doing this when he is the one who has been turning out the updated code, wiring harness, saucer lighting mod, etc.

#2741 4 years ago

Can someone please post a picture of the ramp exit area. I need to know how high the ramp is supposed to sit. I have seen some photos where the ramp almost was flush with the slingshot plastic. Mine is much higher. Is my game wrong.
I also need the know the correct size for my missing spacer wich mounts the spotlight.

09512EE8-AEA0-49D3-8C64-FAE6D285EDB7 (resized).jpeg09512EE8-AEA0-49D3-8C64-FAE6D285EDB7 (resized).jpeg5B685731-A0A3-4856-B3AD-E62E40863AA8 (resized).jpeg5B685731-A0A3-4856-B3AD-E62E40863AA8 (resized).jpeg
#2742 4 years ago
Quoted from Midway-Man:

Can someone please post a picture of the ramp exit area. I need to know how high the ramp is supposed to sit. I have seen some photos where the ramp almost was flush with the slingshot plastic. Mine is much higher. Is my game wrong.
I also need the know the correct size for my missing spacer wich mounts the spotlight.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Do any of these help? My ramp exits sit flush with the slingshots.
2ED52F8F-3AB6-49F8-A4D1-72515DAF1267 (resized).jpeg2ED52F8F-3AB6-49F8-A4D1-72515DAF1267 (resized).jpeg94E73DC6-AFF8-4EC1-9761-DC6847884731 (resized).jpeg94E73DC6-AFF8-4EC1-9761-DC6847884731 (resized).jpeg735D48C8-A0CC-4C3D-966A-8B52306BEC8F (resized).jpeg735D48C8-A0CC-4C3D-966A-8B52306BEC8F (resized).jpeg8AAA6C49-42F9-4E22-8DC4-80D81C81DAB8 (resized).jpeg8AAA6C49-42F9-4E22-8DC4-80D81C81DAB8 (resized).jpegBAE1094A-1CAD-4E1A-B608-E143371F5E9E (resized).jpegBAE1094A-1CAD-4E1A-B608-E143371F5E9E (resized).jpeg

#2743 4 years ago

While we’re comparing ramps.

Can you please take a picture of the left ramp upper switch?

I think a piece is missing from mine. It doesn’t register shots that travel that ramp.

I got the table this way. That part number from the manual does not look like something that should go there so I’m having trouble sourcing a replacement because I don’t know what it’s supposed to look like. Attaching a picture of mine.

I expect it to look something like what’s on the right ramp.

0F087AB1-8246-4E3F-9B12-996629D33DF3 (resized).jpeg0F087AB1-8246-4E3F-9B12-996629D33DF3 (resized).jpegCA132362-3AC0-4D57-9E1B-AC9E83993889 (resized).jpegCA132362-3AC0-4D57-9E1B-AC9E83993889 (resized).jpeg
#2744 4 years ago
Quoted from dashv:

I think a piece is missing from mine. It doesn’t register shots that travel that ramp.

Your microswitch is missing its actuator arm.

#2745 4 years ago

Every time I see pictures of an RFM with ugly fender washers on the slingshots it makes me sad....
Refer to this post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rfm-hillary-come-here-you-gotta-see-this/page/6#post-2177458
Only 5 sets left.

#2746 4 years ago

This might help.

2C71906E-9344-4F24-8668-36969E65B223 (resized).jpeg2C71906E-9344-4F24-8668-36969E65B223 (resized).jpeg
#2747 4 years ago
Quoted from dashv:

Do any of these help? My ramp exits sit flush with the slingshots.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks, is there a little spacer between the ramp and slingplastic? If so, it looks like I am missing it. And the big one wich is currently in is for the spotlight. Anyone knows the size of it? I cant find anything in the manual about it.

#2748 4 years ago

Been wanting to join this group for a while and finally was able to this weekend! The wife and I both love this game and look forward to the countless hours of fun it will provide!

569F0D78-D85C-4E93-B541-510CBECAE38A (resized).jpeg569F0D78-D85C-4E93-B541-510CBECAE38A (resized).jpegFC5F9F4A-F816-4FA1-BE0D-91146C88B47F (resized).jpegFC5F9F4A-F816-4FA1-BE0D-91146C88B47F (resized).jpeg852C248F-BFA3-4A43-95B6-D240AC93DCE7 (resized).jpeg852C248F-BFA3-4A43-95B6-D240AC93DCE7 (resized).jpegD0B19BFB-3D49-4A1A-87BD-1838D50104CF (resized).jpegD0B19BFB-3D49-4A1A-87BD-1838D50104CF (resized).jpegBC5CE974-A72C-49CA-BA76-23DD7261DAFE (resized).jpegBC5CE974-A72C-49CA-BA76-23DD7261DAFE (resized).jpeg
#2749 4 years ago

Anyone know what a full set of plastics and a new sheet of glass should go for shipped? Going to list mine but shipping may be more coming from Canada. thanks.

#2750 4 years ago

Pinbox/Nucore users running original bulbs -> can you confirm if your lamp test works as expected or gives gibberish? Experimenting with some timing settings that seem to make my pinbox setup lamp test work perfectly, whereas without, the lamp matrix a test is wrong.

One other great thing was, after i got it working correctly, i identified a rogue 161 bulb and a bad holder in my game almost instantly.

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